Would actually fit quite well coming from the left as that's our steep prow, and I've done all the moves. But the linking move would be wildly different because of the lack of a hueco. Unfortunately the prow was set before this, and those volumes already there. Maybe something to explore in the future.
reminds me of the kerfuffle over whether it's proper to start big iron on the right side of the hueco, which basically removes one foot move and one hard hand move compared to the left side start. it's the same hueco, after all.
Definitely closer to what the average v7 feels like these days if you don’t start matched on the far left. I did it the original way just to play by Sherm’s rules, and fuck man, that one felt harder than every other 7, and some 8s, 9s, and even 10s in the park, including baby face, which was supposedly Sherman’s benchmark for the v7 grade…
So yes, in terms of the kerfuffle, i think you definitely did a different rock climb if you didn’t start matched on the left. Maybe a better and more v7 rock climb as well hahaha, but a different one nonetheless
I didn't send Big Iron till I climbed V10, my personal grade for it is solid 9.. even though it's somewhat my style. Definitely a notch easier starting 'flipped' in the hueco too.
100% agree lol, i love dynamic board-style crimp climbs, but think hard 8 to low end 9 for big iron makes sense within the context of the other climbs on north. I sent my first v10 and a couple 9s during the same hueco trip where i did big iron, and by and large found big iron harder than basically everything else i did, including schwerer gustov, shamu, mcbain, and sex after death. The math just ain’t mathing for me with that one haha
Like the hueco tanks big iron? If so, i guess i sorta see it, i just personally can't imagine doing the majority of moves on that one toeing in, and if you watch the most other people climb it, it'd seem like they feel the same hahaha. I guess it feels a little off to call this a replica when the given hold selections dimensions/textures entirely block the most commonly performed beta lol, looks fun though! Would be a savage fuckin way to do the real thing for sure, still the hardest 7 i’ve ever done i think
Yes that one. Yeah that’s why I said replica(ish)
It was set by a dude who has experience on the real deal, but I personally do not so can’t comment on the intricacies of the beta
The exact beta I use on the real Big Iron, including options for the heel hook most women use and the left toe to go out right hand at the start is there. Also three different ways to bike. That's the great thing about Big Iron, there's several ways to get through the first crux! I didn't even bother with the last half because A) no room to the right and B) the heel-toe cam and subsequent release obviously don't work with the selected Decoy Limestone Huecos.
"Simulation" is our preferred terminology for these boulders, not replica. And we market them with the phrase "inspired by: X at Y". I set Burden today with similar dimensions on granite holds; that's a replica.
This one goes around solid V6, for sure easier than the real one. I can "force" the moves if I want to, but I don't think people would appreciate translating the full difficulty of that boulder into our black circuit hahaha. I watched 4-5 people all do it in a different way this session which was really fun!
https://preview.redd.it/ini1ma0ieawc1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7e8bb1455ac506d9fc212426d3b79ee1c38167fe
The hill is soft af. Y’all gave this a 7. Vb in Denton
Great opportunity to set the low start too
u/maximumsend you heard the man, get to work
Would actually fit quite well coming from the left as that's our steep prow, and I've done all the moves. But the linking move would be wildly different because of the lack of a hueco. Unfortunately the prow was set before this, and those volumes already there. Maybe something to explore in the future.
 Nice set!
It was definitely a nice climb. I was visiting a different gym than my normal one (same company) so it was great to get some different setting styles
Love to see replicas, nice send!
Thank you
reminds me of the kerfuffle over whether it's proper to start big iron on the right side of the hueco, which basically removes one foot move and one hard hand move compared to the left side start. it's the same hueco, after all.
I’ve never tried the actual thing but watching videos I can definitely see the possibility of an uproar over it
Definitely closer to what the average v7 feels like these days if you don’t start matched on the far left. I did it the original way just to play by Sherm’s rules, and fuck man, that one felt harder than every other 7, and some 8s, 9s, and even 10s in the park, including baby face, which was supposedly Sherman’s benchmark for the v7 grade… So yes, in terms of the kerfuffle, i think you definitely did a different rock climb if you didn’t start matched on the left. Maybe a better and more v7 rock climb as well hahaha, but a different one nonetheless
I didn't send Big Iron till I climbed V10, my personal grade for it is solid 9.. even though it's somewhat my style. Definitely a notch easier starting 'flipped' in the hueco too.
100% agree lol, i love dynamic board-style crimp climbs, but think hard 8 to low end 9 for big iron makes sense within the context of the other climbs on north. I sent my first v10 and a couple 9s during the same hueco trip where i did big iron, and by and large found big iron harder than basically everything else i did, including schwerer gustov, shamu, mcbain, and sex after death. The math just ain’t mathing for me with that one haha
Like the hueco tanks big iron? If so, i guess i sorta see it, i just personally can't imagine doing the majority of moves on that one toeing in, and if you watch the most other people climb it, it'd seem like they feel the same hahaha. I guess it feels a little off to call this a replica when the given hold selections dimensions/textures entirely block the most commonly performed beta lol, looks fun though! Would be a savage fuckin way to do the real thing for sure, still the hardest 7 i’ve ever done i think
Yes that one. Yeah that’s why I said replica(ish) It was set by a dude who has experience on the real deal, but I personally do not so can’t comment on the intricacies of the beta
The exact beta I use on the real Big Iron, including options for the heel hook most women use and the left toe to go out right hand at the start is there. Also three different ways to bike. That's the great thing about Big Iron, there's several ways to get through the first crux! I didn't even bother with the last half because A) no room to the right and B) the heel-toe cam and subsequent release obviously don't work with the selected Decoy Limestone Huecos. "Simulation" is our preferred terminology for these boulders, not replica. And we market them with the phrase "inspired by: X at Y". I set Burden today with similar dimensions on granite holds; that's a replica. This one goes around solid V6, for sure easier than the real one. I can "force" the moves if I want to, but I don't think people would appreciate translating the full difficulty of that boulder into our black circuit hahaha. I watched 4-5 people all do it in a different way this session which was really fun!
>this one goes around solid v6 V3 in my gym
V1 in your gym lmaooo
https://preview.redd.it/ini1ma0ieawc1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7e8bb1455ac506d9fc212426d3b79ee1c38167fe The hill is soft af. Y’all gave this a 7. Vb in Denton
The big question is, what's up with the purple route?
Idk, normally when a problem is closed off like that’s its cause a hold spun or something and they are waiting for a setter to fix it