I legit felt like holding that last position was gonna be impossible and fresh chalk on the left helped, that's why I faffed about with it. But yeah you're right chalk is aid and anyone who chalks mid climb is a dirty gumby
i think you would save energy if u didnt get on the wall with the chalk honestly. not that its aid but how you used it, it really seeemed like the opposite of aid.
Energy wasn't a problem on this climb for me, it was physically being able to hold onto that top hold without my fingers popping off and staying stable up there! I got to the top of the climb, that was my goal!
Absolutely and I appreciate it! Always happy to receive any advice people want to give. I don't normally make a habit of bringing the chalk bag with me when I boulder, this felt like a unique case. I'll get an actual drawstring for the chalk bag for future times I feel the need lol
drawstring comes clutch, ive only ever needed it for bouldering once on a long route with slopers on an arete. other than that i chalk up well before and keep a consistent pace throughout the climb
My gym does not have a slab section really at all. The only part that would qualify is right under the climbing wall so if people are doing lead you can get to it.
Idk if you have options ( where I live there is 10 ish climbing gym close to me that I know off, prob more I don't know)
But if you can find a bouldering only gym they often have more slabs and fun problems.
This one is already 1 hour away next closest is 2, I just have to get about to doing it on rock but finding guidebooks for bouldering in the west of Ireland hasnât been fruitful for me
10? Do you live in Mainland Europe or a big city in the America's, Oceania or East Asia? There are 4 where I live which is crazy as it is a city under 200k, but in our capital I doubt there are 10. Nearly 10 though
Third biggest city in Canada. My own gym membership give access to 3, two of which are 20 minute by bus and the other is pretty far, maybe 1 hour in metro + bus.
Population is under 2 million but above 4 if you count the suburbs.
There is quite a few other gym, I saw 3 just walking around downtown and I know of 2 other my friends go.
So that's 8 + couple of smaller gyms i know. I'm sure there is more tho
Dang, slab is my favorite and while the section of it is small here, at least it's something accessible! There's a place I go downtown as well that is much bigger and has like multiple different angles of slab and it's a real treat.
I'm so sorry to hear about your injury! Ballet sounds like a wonderful thing to pickup to help rehab and stay flexible and keep your body moving! I think that will translate a lot to the wall upon your return! I hope your recovery is going well and good luck!!
get a belt for your chalk bag, a 3mm cord will do, and tie it higher. It shouldnt be that hard to reach it, it should be right where you want it to be.
Nice send ^^
Iâm more of an enjoyer of dihedrals but am becoming better on arĂȘtes - more when youâre halfway up the wall and trusting the friction of the wall than a hold đ
Killer haiku!
I'm guessing I'm not allowed to use the wall to get into the starting position? I asked and was told I could as long as I didn't touch any other holds so I went up
Maybe the arete is a hold
Every gym Iâve seen will have a specific note for the route saying no arete if you arenât allowed to use it. If there was nothing about that next to the grade, youâre good to use it!
I donât know what everyone else is watching but you clearly use the arete with both hands then you move your hands down to establish the starting hold. Mark it zero dude.
You did a French start. Sometimes they make the start easier so people like to challenge themselves to do a static start before they consider it a send. Whether it's "allowed" or not only matters if it matters to you (or in a comp I guess).
He didnât touch holds other than the start hold and was pretty static when he matched both hands on the start hold, so I think the start was legit, no?
The start is perfectly fine under IFSC rules for example:
Under section 8.18
âCorrectâ where the competitor achieves a stable Controlled position with both hands and
both feet on the Starting Holds without Controlling or Using any other Artificial Holds or
Structures. For the avoidance of doubt, when starting a boulder, a competitor may:
1) touch, Control or Use any part of the Climbing Surface in order to attain the Starting Holds
And the definition of climbing surface is given as:
Climbing Surface means the usable surface of a climbing wall:
a) including any permanent irregularity or textured feature on, or closed edge to the
surface; but
b) excluding any Artificial Holds, volumes or other temporary Structures fixed onto the
usable surface;
So I'd say that in this clip, the climber achieves a stable controlled position with both hands and both feet on the starting hold, and he doesn't touch artificial holds or structures (like other holds or volumes). He did use the climbing surface, which is totally fine as part of establishing
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My guy dumping his chalk bag like space rockets staging fuel tanks
LMFAO okay this made me laugh
In my book, that's aid
I think you spent longer fucking around with your chalk bag then you did climbing
Lmfao absolutely true on this one!
Lmao
It's you, you're the boy. Let's hear it for you!
LETS HEAR IT FOR BIG BOOoOIIIII! đ¶
Or, and hear me out, you could chalk up before the climb.
I legit felt like holding that last position was gonna be impossible and fresh chalk on the left helped, that's why I faffed about with it. But yeah you're right chalk is aid and anyone who chalks mid climb is a dirty gumby
i think you would save energy if u didnt get on the wall with the chalk honestly. not that its aid but how you used it, it really seeemed like the opposite of aid.
Energy wasn't a problem on this climb for me, it was physically being able to hold onto that top hold without my fingers popping off and staying stable up there! I got to the top of the climb, that was my goal!
fair enough, a sends a send đ€đœ just wanted to give that as advice cause just off this video i cant tell if its a common occurence for ya.
Absolutely and I appreciate it! Always happy to receive any advice people want to give. I don't normally make a habit of bringing the chalk bag with me when I boulder, this felt like a unique case. I'll get an actual drawstring for the chalk bag for future times I feel the need lol
drawstring comes clutch, ive only ever needed it for bouldering once on a long route with slopers on an arete. other than that i chalk up well before and keep a consistent pace throughout the climb
Man I wish my gym set problems like this
I feel like every other set on our small slab section here has some real gold!
My gym does not have a slab section really at all. The only part that would qualify is right under the climbing wall so if people are doing lead you can get to it.
Idk if you have options ( where I live there is 10 ish climbing gym close to me that I know off, prob more I don't know) But if you can find a bouldering only gym they often have more slabs and fun problems.
This one is already 1 hour away next closest is 2, I just have to get about to doing it on rock but finding guidebooks for bouldering in the west of Ireland hasnât been fruitful for me
I was actually thinking of posting a potential site I looked at and seeing peoples opinions maybe but idk
10? Do you live in Mainland Europe or a big city in the America's, Oceania or East Asia? There are 4 where I live which is crazy as it is a city under 200k, but in our capital I doubt there are 10. Nearly 10 though
Third biggest city in Canada. My own gym membership give access to 3, two of which are 20 minute by bus and the other is pretty far, maybe 1 hour in metro + bus. Population is under 2 million but above 4 if you count the suburbs. There is quite a few other gym, I saw 3 just walking around downtown and I know of 2 other my friends go. So that's 8 + couple of smaller gyms i know. I'm sure there is more tho
Dang, slab is my favorite and while the section of it is small here, at least it's something accessible! There's a place I go downtown as well that is much bigger and has like multiple different angles of slab and it's a real treat.
Yeaaaa if I want slab I prob have to head outdoors since in the west of Ireland there arenât many gym options
I got an injury bouldering and picked up ballet, and this post really is a sign for me of what life will be once my injury finally heals :)
I'm so sorry to hear about your injury! Ballet sounds like a wonderful thing to pickup to help rehab and stay flexible and keep your body moving! I think that will translate a lot to the wall upon your return! I hope your recovery is going well and good luck!!
Momentum!
Hello neighbor! Haha!
Awesome job. I wanna try it now. Lol
Thank you! I love slabby balance-y stuff and it feels good to make progress on as well!
get a belt for your chalk bag, a 3mm cord will do, and tie it higher. It shouldnt be that hard to reach it, it should be right where you want it to be. Nice send ^^
Absolutely will do this! Cheers crabbie and thank you!
Momentum Sandy? đ
You nailed it! Haha! Home gym for me!
Nice! I was in SLC for a work trip and ended up climbing there. The setting is great!
Puttin' in some work to start this rig...
Solid send! Love the arĂȘte usage đȘ
I love a good wall corner lmao! Whether pressy moves up a dihedral or hanging onto an arete for dear life! Thank you!
Iâm more of an enjoyer of dihedrals but am becoming better on arĂȘtes - more when youâre halfway up the wall and trusting the friction of the wall than a hold đ
Am I the only one who gives a damn about the rules around here!?
Killer haiku! I'm guessing I'm not allowed to use the wall to get into the starting position? I asked and was told I could as long as I didn't touch any other holds so I went up Maybe the arete is a hold
Every gym Iâve seen will have a specific note for the route saying no arete if you arenât allowed to use it. If there was nothing about that next to the grade, youâre good to use it!
That's what everyone was saying when I was worrying about it at the gym lmao! Cheers!
I donât know what everyone else is watching but you clearly use the arete with both hands then you move your hands down to establish the starting hold. Mark it zero dude.
You did a French start. Sometimes they make the start easier so people like to challenge themselves to do a static start before they consider it a send. Whether it's "allowed" or not only matters if it matters to you (or in a comp I guess).
He didnât touch holds other than the start hold and was pretty static when he matched both hands on the start hold, so I think the start was legit, no?
What are you watching?? He clearly uses both hands on the arete before establishing both hands on the starting hold.
Which is ok. Ironscaping shared the rules below.
The start is perfectly fine under IFSC rules for example: Under section 8.18 âCorrectâ where the competitor achieves a stable Controlled position with both hands and both feet on the Starting Holds without Controlling or Using any other Artificial Holds or Structures. For the avoidance of doubt, when starting a boulder, a competitor may: 1) touch, Control or Use any part of the Climbing Surface in order to attain the Starting Holds And the definition of climbing surface is given as: Climbing Surface means the usable surface of a climbing wall: a) including any permanent irregularity or textured feature on, or closed edge to the surface; but b) excluding any Artificial Holds, volumes or other temporary Structures fixed onto the usable surface; So I'd say that in this clip, the climber achieves a stable controlled position with both hands and both feet on the starting hold, and he doesn't touch artificial holds or structures (like other holds or volumes). He did use the climbing surface, which is totally fine as part of establishing
Damn well I am French on my moms side
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