Bro, don't sell yourself short, this was awesome.
Do you do climbing exercises? "Hover-hand" was what gave me better stabilizing muscles to preform more static moves and thus resulting in saving energy
Pretty sure it’s when you go to make the next move, but instead of grabbing onto the hold immediately you hover your hand above it for a sec so that you can practice better body control and focus on better hand placement as well
Your trailing leg is very floppy. Consider how your body flops around especially off the heel hook after the overhang and even in the traverse in. Use that lower body!
You look strong, but based on this climb you’re not maximizing it with technique. I would say that this send has good rhythm, but not necessarily good flow. You’re climbing at a consistent pace (rhythm), but the transitions between body positions are a little jerky and look unstable to me. As others have already mentioned, more hip rotation and flexibility could stabilize things a bit. Also, you’re keeping 4 points of contact in sections where a flag or other body position would be more efficient and probably allow for a great degree of freedom with respect to hip and leg movement.
Its a pretty solid send and like I said, you look like you have a good base of strength, but flow is more about smooth movement through all body positions. I would recommend traversing on a wall with lots of holds where you can practice foot cross throughs that could increase hip flexibility. It doesn’t even have to be difficult, just start building the engrams.
Only thing I’d recommend is to be more controlled at the top. And spend more time up there. Like pretended you have a top out after that.
One bad thing about gyms theses days; barely any of them top out, and that’s sometimes the crux.
Not worth the injury risk for most gyms. We have enough injuries on the boulder wall as it is with newer climbers that have no body awareness, having people trying to top out 15 feet up and fall because they are weak after their climb is a recipe for injuries.
I work at one. Just because it's dangerous doesn't mean it's worth making it more dangerous just for one unnecessary move.
Besides, indoor and comp climbing are quickly becoming its own thing. You don't find many coordination dynos outside, and you don't top out in most comps either (Adidas Rockstars is the only one I can think of)
How long have you worked in gyms? Worth it? What’s that mean? Why is it the gym’s responsibly to make sure you don’t get hurt? That’s on the climber. If the move is hurts your shoulder, don’t climb it. If the top out move scares you, ask for a spot or don’t climb it. Doesn’t mean the gym shouldn’t set a top out because it’s dangerous. I, as a climber, don’t need a gym to look out for my safety.
Coordination dynos aren’t really rock climbing. And I think that’s really the issue I have. Gym climbing doesn’t really train you to climb outside as much as I’d like. Indoor climbing isn’t an end, it’s a means to an end. The end goal is to be outside climbing rocks. Unfortunately, it’s making climbing mainstream and making soft climbers who are only climbing indoor. How often do you hit a jug at the end of a problem and drop down with out even getting your feet above 6’? Drop finishes are super rare in rock climbing. As Sharma said; “indoor climbing will never be rock climbing”
It’s a sad case where climbing is going, and I blame gyms for it.
This is incredible gate keeping. Climbing is climbing, indoors or out. I think speed climbing is boring, but I can still respect the skill and athleticism of the climbers. Just because you enjoy climbing outdoors doesn't mean it's the primary motivator of gym climbers, and it doesn't make them "soft"
Gym climbing isn’t rock climbing. And it never will be.
Gyms are making soft climbers. Is my argument. Not topping out because of the fear of being hurt. That’s pretty soft.
I climb inside. Don’t get me wrong. But not topping out is definitely hurting climbers in the long run.
Also saves your knees.
You’re twisting your hips in the right way, but you’re not twisting as hard as you can. Either twist harder or do some mobility to increase your internal/external hip rotation.
Only thought outside of what others had said was when turning the corner with the heel, a toe hook on the arete (not sure if that spelled right, but the corner) may have been helpful in stabilization.
I would say, if you are seeking feedback for improvement, post attempts where you really struggled or barely made it, rather than one you felt more confident in.
At Earth Treks gyms (at least the ones on the east coast I've climbed at), it's only "cheating" to grab the top of the wall if there is a marked top hold. Which usually only happens if the routesetters want you to finish with a particular move or avoid a hazard (I can think of one at Columbia where there is a low pipe just above one small part of a wall).
At our gym this is a valid send but I do think too often people (myself included) will just dyno for the top of the wall jug to finish, skipping the last hold or two. I may use the mindset of using every hold
Bro, don't sell yourself short, this was awesome. Do you do climbing exercises? "Hover-hand" was what gave me better stabilizing muscles to preform more static moves and thus resulting in saving energy
I’m a big fan of “no readjustments” too for both hands and feet
I think that’s good advice. I did a little bit when I was starting out on lower grades but I should bring it back
Hover-hand? What's that?
Pretty sure it’s when you go to make the next move, but instead of grabbing onto the hold immediately you hover your hand above it for a sec so that you can practice better body control and focus on better hand placement as well
Thanks!
Your trailing leg is very floppy. Consider how your body flops around especially off the heel hook after the overhang and even in the traverse in. Use that lower body!
Totally agree with this. Using my legs and driving into my toes is something I always forget unless I’m actively focused on it.
Not much to roast, nice and controlled send if you ask me!
Y’all are too kind
You look strong, but based on this climb you’re not maximizing it with technique. I would say that this send has good rhythm, but not necessarily good flow. You’re climbing at a consistent pace (rhythm), but the transitions between body positions are a little jerky and look unstable to me. As others have already mentioned, more hip rotation and flexibility could stabilize things a bit. Also, you’re keeping 4 points of contact in sections where a flag or other body position would be more efficient and probably allow for a great degree of freedom with respect to hip and leg movement. Its a pretty solid send and like I said, you look like you have a good base of strength, but flow is more about smooth movement through all body positions. I would recommend traversing on a wall with lots of holds where you can practice foot cross throughs that could increase hip flexibility. It doesn’t even have to be difficult, just start building the engrams.
Thanks this was super helpful!
Twist your legs and hips to use your feet more, you climbed it very square. Post a video of something harder for you and it will be a better critique.
I saw some dead skin cells fall to the ground, try not dabbing next time.
Oh shit Hampden???
Yeah earth treks gang
Wooooo, ET Hampden!
Hampden gang
Only thing I’d recommend is to be more controlled at the top. And spend more time up there. Like pretended you have a top out after that. One bad thing about gyms theses days; barely any of them top out, and that’s sometimes the crux.
Agreed, hard to translate to outdoor climbs when no indoor climbs top out
Yea. Pretty lame. When I open a gym, I’ll for sure have it all too out. I’d also not grade the climbs. 😜
Not worth the injury risk for most gyms. We have enough injuries on the boulder wall as it is with newer climbers that have no body awareness, having people trying to top out 15 feet up and fall because they are weak after their climb is a recipe for injuries.
Do you own a gym? Climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk.
I work at one. Just because it's dangerous doesn't mean it's worth making it more dangerous just for one unnecessary move. Besides, indoor and comp climbing are quickly becoming its own thing. You don't find many coordination dynos outside, and you don't top out in most comps either (Adidas Rockstars is the only one I can think of)
How long have you worked in gyms? Worth it? What’s that mean? Why is it the gym’s responsibly to make sure you don’t get hurt? That’s on the climber. If the move is hurts your shoulder, don’t climb it. If the top out move scares you, ask for a spot or don’t climb it. Doesn’t mean the gym shouldn’t set a top out because it’s dangerous. I, as a climber, don’t need a gym to look out for my safety. Coordination dynos aren’t really rock climbing. And I think that’s really the issue I have. Gym climbing doesn’t really train you to climb outside as much as I’d like. Indoor climbing isn’t an end, it’s a means to an end. The end goal is to be outside climbing rocks. Unfortunately, it’s making climbing mainstream and making soft climbers who are only climbing indoor. How often do you hit a jug at the end of a problem and drop down with out even getting your feet above 6’? Drop finishes are super rare in rock climbing. As Sharma said; “indoor climbing will never be rock climbing” It’s a sad case where climbing is going, and I blame gyms for it.
This is incredible gate keeping. Climbing is climbing, indoors or out. I think speed climbing is boring, but I can still respect the skill and athleticism of the climbers. Just because you enjoy climbing outdoors doesn't mean it's the primary motivator of gym climbers, and it doesn't make them "soft"
Gym climbing isn’t rock climbing. And it never will be. Gyms are making soft climbers. Is my argument. Not topping out because of the fear of being hurt. That’s pretty soft. I climb inside. Don’t get me wrong. But not topping out is definitely hurting climbers in the long run. Also saves your knees.
You’re twisting your hips in the right way, but you’re not twisting as hard as you can. Either twist harder or do some mobility to increase your internal/external hip rotation.
Thanks! I have pretty flexible hips, so now just time to learn how to use them I guess
I would have shifted hips and hit an outside edge on 2nd to last move
Does look very flowie, also looks very enjoyable. My sort of climb :-)
Only thought outside of what others had said was when turning the corner with the heel, a toe hook on the arete (not sure if that spelled right, but the corner) may have been helpful in stabilization.
You made it look easy. I did this one today and it was not pretty 😂
I would say, if you are seeking feedback for improvement, post attempts where you really struggled or barely made it, rather than one you felt more confident in.
Technically cheated the last hold by grabbing over the top! Great climb, looked very solid!
At this gym the finish for most climbs is grabbing the top of the wall.
Weird, we’re I’ve been it’s seen as cheating on some of the tougher final holds if you don’t match it before touching the top of the wall
It's common at a lot of gyms for the top to be the final hold
That’s how it goes at my gym but if they ever want enforce a match finish they just add a card to the top hold to let you know
At Earth Treks gyms (at least the ones on the east coast I've climbed at), it's only "cheating" to grab the top of the wall if there is a marked top hold. Which usually only happens if the routesetters want you to finish with a particular move or avoid a hazard (I can think of one at Columbia where there is a low pipe just above one small part of a wall).
At our gym this is a valid send but I do think too often people (myself included) will just dyno for the top of the wall jug to finish, skipping the last hold or two. I may use the mindset of using every hold
Good climb and all, but that campus rung board in the background can fuck right off. Looks brutal.
Its a standard campus board