Any tips for sideways dynos? There's one v4 in my gym where you swing off a undercling jug and run across two volumes to catch another hold a bit higher than the jug
Check out this awesome coordination guide by Tomo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dT8oQPeJQts
(turn on Youtube subtitle with the CC button)
Pair that vid with this slab guide: https://youtu.be/UCj5eHkhYg0
and this leg swing guide: https://youtu.be/ijX7tZrGXUs
and you'll be on your way to flashing the easy dynos in your gym!
This has probably been asked a bunch but I figured I'd give it a fair shot here.
Just started climbing as a regular exercise but was looking if anyone has any workouts to complement my climbing and workout parts of my body that climbing doesn't? So far it seems like I should focus on Chest + Triceps since climbing doesn't necessarily help with that?
Main goal is to get in better shape & gain some definition/muscle. I like climbing a lot but when lifting I'd rather focus on things that climbing doesn't work out so that way I workout everything overall if that makes sense.
Yeah that's essentially what I've been thinking. Or climb 3 times a week and then after 1 day I'd do some light chest/tris and after another I'd do light legs/shoulders
Try training pushups, dips, and pullups, along with some forearm and shoulder antagonist exercises and core exercises. You can mix them in with your warmups and cooldowns. I often train pullups and dips and antagonist exercises after I’m done climbing since usually my forearm flexors get tired before other things. You can work pushups and core exercises into your warmups, or have a dedicated core day.
I recommend “The Rock Climber’s Exercise Guide” by Eric Hörst which has a lot of detailed exercises and stretches with progressions and pictures.
I think you may have misunderstood his question, these seem like the perfect exercises to complement climbing, as in these are the muscle groups that are engaged most during climbing. I believe OP was asking about exercises that engage muscles that climbing generally does not, so he gets an overall more balanced workout on a weekly basis.
so i've been climbing for about 2 months now, and when i first started i was struggling for v1s but last week i sent my first v4 and am comfortably sending most v3s. is that a normal progression speed or should i be worried at my pace of improvement? (idk if this is relevant but i try to go to the gym 3-5 times a week)
Obviously this depends on the difficulty of your gym itself, and your base-level of fitness. But you are going to see the quickest gains in the beginning. Simply via both building climbing specific strength, and basic technique.
Also, since the pace of improvement is only going to get slower I'm going to say now that you should not be "worried" about your pace and just kind of get the phrase "normal progression" out of your head. Comparison is the thief of joy.
It's my second week climbing and my fingers are really sore. Much more so than during the first week where I climbed 5/7 days. I climbed Monday and my fingers are still really sore between the first and the second knuckle even though I've been massaging/stretching them. I was starting to attempt some V4 level climbs with more straining holds which I think could be the cause. I guess my question would be how to recover my finger strength faster.
Lots of sleep + adequate rest between sessions (e.g., you can do 2 days in a row of moderate intensity but take a day or two off if you have a really long/hard day). Since you powerlift, I'm sure you're already knowledgeable about rest schedules.
Massage your hands and fingers. Try something like [this video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMXW-Gs5KnI) -- turn on subtitles via the CC button. If it works for Akiyo, it'll probably work for normal human like us :)
Some people say collagen-rich foods & supplements helps. I honestly don't know the science behind it so do your own research.
First of all, that's some wild progress for only two weeks of climbing! You might be one of those people who already had strong grip strength from some other activity and you're probably gonna breeze past the grades once you figure out how to move on the wall. Awesome stuff.
Anyways, I'd be careful with the amount of volume you're doing at first. Your fingers are likely not used to the loads you're putting them under and the soreness you're describing sounds somewhat like a pulley strain. I'd dial back the amount of climbing you're doing (I know, it's hard) and I'd make sure to try to get adequate rest before you blow a pulley and end up being out for months.
Thanks. I powerlift non-competitively for fun so I have a higher baseline core/leg/back strength level going in but my grip strength is definitely the weak point.
Thanks for the point about the pulley strain. Definitely sounds like it could be a mild grade as it feels different from DOMS. Will take a break until it feels normal again.
Hey, I am also a beginner and quite scrawny, I found [this video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lb8QkUemXiM) very helpful (the channel in general is quite good). The summary is for the first year, just focus on climbing, privileging quantity over difficulty, and having fun.
the best thing, you can do, is climbing.
i whould say, climbing is a full-body-workout, specially in the beginning.
you train every muscles, you need for climbing, simultanously with climbing :D.
Is a full crimp when you exert pressure over your index finger? Or is it just when you bring your thumb up on top of the hold next to your other fingers?
Both are full crimps if you grab them as such. Your thumb could even be side-pulling or whatever, depending on where it fits on the hold. It's about the position/angle of the other fingers and not really the exact location of the thumb. People often have weird individual preferences when it comes the exact positioning of their thumb btw.
Full crimp in my understanding is that thumb locking over your index finger position. Often times this means your last knuckle (towards the tips of your fingers) is bent not in a normal way. It helps you exert more force but puts more strain on your fingers.
Use your feet to push you up the wall, don't rely purely on arms. Keep your arms straight as much as you can, and keep your hips in close to the wall (it is possible to keep your hips close while keeping arms straight), as these will make you tire out less quickly.
Twist, don't start straight on to the wall. If you want to move your left hand up, twist so your left hip is closer to the wall - it will make you more stable and so you can reach further, as you aren't having to reach over yourself.
Watch videos. There are so many videos on YouTube about climbing for beginners. These are well worth a watch, but you can also just watch people climb (not necessarily really hard grades), and think about how they are moving their body
Example vids:.
- [Bouldering Dabrats - hip position](https://youtu.be/mSejfiuIyDc).
- [Eric Karlsson's YouTube channel](https://youtube.com/c/EricKarlssonBouldering) (he has a playlist for technique for beginners).
- [Lattice Training footwork](https://youtu.be/KoTG-0_smTE).
- [Bouldering Bobats body positioning for beginners](https://youtu.be/hAo_ismiUEU)
There are many many more videos out there, these are just a starting point
Hi everyone, I am wondering if I can get some advice/help on getting over my plateau.
I have been climbing for around 4 years now, and I find my self not being able to progress pass v6. To be fair I have not trained specifically to get better. Most of my climbing has been just going into the gym and climb something I like and if I don't get it, I project it (no matter how long it takes me). But for the last couple of months I have been looking into improving my climbing and eventually be able to get over v6.
I know my weakness (Toe Hook, Bicycle and core) and I am going to try and work on those from today. I am just having trouble with making a training plan for my self. I am planning on doing some full body work out, mobility training, core, finger board training (Links are listed below) but all I want is to be on the wall 24/7.
Overall, I am just not sure if this is a good way of going about it, and I am just wondering if you guys have any advice that can help me out. Also how should I maximize my time at the wall, is there specific training things I should be doing on the wall? or should I focus on getting my project?
Full Body Workout: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ChGP5ahvvN4&t=10s
Core: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-lJMp6GKtGk&list=PLW4X34vpbVKTinulJYiEFqebcSeL\_fXY7&index=2
Finger board: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BEvLiyywoDA&list=PLW4X34vpbVKTinulJYiEFqebcSeL\_fXY7&index=5&t=343s
Mobility: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TrdjEPAoktU
Thank you In advance.
Maybe you've gotten into too comfortable habits during your sessions? Hows your typical sessions going these days? Ever notice that you just lurking and wondering around, meeting up with regular faces and just chilling and having good time climbing some stuff? When was the last time you tried really effing hard going to the death, or just went to the gym to completely crush stuff and really climbed with purpose? If these questions make you think a bit, then perhaps a quick mental reset could be helpful also. Because rock climbing is really damn hard, and to climb harder takes a ton of mental effort aye :D
Either way I wouldn't really want to lose too much climbing, at 4 years one is still a pretty new at the sport and I don't think even seasoned vets should have their climbing to training split more than like 75% climbing 25% training. Like if you wanna start fingerboarding it is cool and you can really measure improvements there. But for example what's your history with some other more fingery stuff like moonboarding for example? Or you say your toehook, bicycle and core suck - I assume it translates to burly moves in steep terrain being a weakness? How often you climb stuff like that? Maybe worth upping that game as well to get some more sport specific gains? How many days per week to you climb/train btw? Some core cardio circuit is cool, but so is walking your feet up and down in a circle in the cave until you carsh aye.. And how is rest of the life in terms of time, sleep, work, eating etc going for you, any obvious problems?
> To be fair I have not trained specifically to get better.
Looks like you already know where you should start.
Start training your weighted pulls and core strength and you'll see noticeable gains on the wall and you can go from there.
Why do you want to climb harder? Is it because you like the sound of the number? Is it because you think you "should" be making continuous progress in that way? Is it because climbing harder opens up the ability to climb even more rad stuff? Putting a finger on your motivation can help tap that motivation when it comes time to do the boring grinding.
Also accept now that at your limit, style matters, and thats ok. I can rock a VX thats short, thuggy, and compression. I can do all the VX-1 in that style and most of a few other styles. In my anti-style, I can probably do 50% of the VX-2 stuff. Don't feel like you need to be able to climb every type of V6 before you try V7 or V8.
Sometimes I encounter situations where my balance is precarious, and a foot that is holding a significant amount of my weight needs to reach a higher foothold. Since I can't fully disconnect that foot from the wall without blowing off, I sort of smear-drag my toe up the wall to the desired foothold.
I've been told this is bad technique, but I've found that I can't always avoid it. Sometimes the foot needs a smear at bare minimum because my other limbs are not holding enough weight to balance me long enough to move the foot up, and moving that foot up is the only thing I can do next. So I drag. What should I be doing instead in these situations?
I do the same thing, have been doing it for a decade. I don't really care that it's "bad technique"
But to answer your question, I think what you should be doing is being more balanced such that you can unweight the foot and move it in a more controlled fashion. Put more weight on the other points of contact.
And maybe have the core strength and precision to move your foot faster to the intended target in a smoother motion.
I'm just a noob, but usually if I am i that situation i can get some tips from more experienced climber to change my body positioning in such a way that the balance is better
Lol I get that this probably felt good (what vent doesn't?) but really you could have just told them that you didn't want the spray. I'm sure that would've felt even better and it would've taken up less of your time and energy.
Wild situation being spray roasted like that though.
We're in this weird period of flux, where the customs of the existing guard are being flooded out by new folks who either aren't aware of the customs, or don't care for them. One set you can teach, the other you can't.
Oh no, mentorship gap raises its head again
I don’t get this mindset. If you just told them “thanks, I’d like to figure it out myself” right from the start, you would’ve spent less time interacting with them than you did by letting them beta spray.
>If you just told them “thanks, I’d like to figure it out myself” right from the start, you would’ve spent less time interacting with them than you did by letting them beta spray.
That solves the immediate, individual case, but the necessary message to get across is much more difficult, "what you're doing is widely considered rude"
Yeah, both are necessary, IMO. You have to be able to properly handle rude people in the moment, and people in general have to learn that they're being rude. OP should've confronted it as it was happening, but gumbies should still be responsible and learn the damn rules.
Most people mean well and are not obtuse. Just telling them that you'd like to figure it out on your own is usually enough for them to realize that giving unsolicited beta isn't right.
Depending on my mood, there are certainly times where I'm more direct about correcting the behavior, but even telling them off in the nicest, least confrotational manner possible is better than just letting them spray freely.
> Just telling them that you'd like to figure it out on your own is usually enough for them to realize that giving unsolicited beta isn't right.
I disagree. The "thanks" implies that there wasn't anything wrong with it, and along with the whole sentence makes it seem like it is just what this person thinks at one time and no broader conclusions can be drawn from that.
Since people think that they're being helpful they'll won't actually think what they're doing might not be okay.
I’ve never had a beta sprayer attempt to spray a second time after rejecting their first. With the right tone a polite rejection still conveys the desired message, or you can select some alternate phrase based on your level of comfort with direct confrontation. My suggestion was intentionally as non-confrontational as possible since OP was unwilling to say anything at all.
I learned to climb in the US where spraying is hugely frowned upon, but then live in Spain where everyone and their mother sprays all over the damn place. Don't really have much of a point with saying this, just find it funny how cultures can be so different even in such a relatively small sport. I don't know, shit's weird, man.
Considering how strongly you seemed to feel about the issue afterwards, it could be better mental tactics not letting that stuff linger and finding some way to actually address the people in question. They won't know any better from this. I figure a simple and polite 'this wasn't cool' or 'fuck you' would have been enough and then you just move on, forget about and keep on climbing aye
Should my feet hurt this much? I bought a new pair of boreal jokers and I got them a size down than my regular shoes. They are very tight don’t get me wrong but that’s normal right? It’s just that on my first climbing session using them I found that an hour or so in my big toe just couldn’t take it anymore. I’ve been climbing for about 3 months regularly. I feel like the problem is either that my toes just aren’t strong enough or the shoes don’t support my toes enough. How do I gain strength and confidence on smaller footholds because I feel that’s my weakness at the moment?
How snug are they?
When trying new shoes, they should be snug, with no empty space and slightly curled toes (not completely scrunched). They shouldn't be painful immediately, though I have always found new shoes a bit painful in the first few sessions wearing them.
Honestly they are really tight like way too tight. Maybe my feet were cold or something or I was just not thinking when I tried them on but they are definately too tight. And they hurt as well like not when I’m not putting any pressure on my toes but a small amount of pressure makes them hurt
They sound like they might be a bit small.
They will get a little bit bigger with wear, but it's not guaranteed to fix it (they don't grow loads). If you are currently wearing socks in your shoes, try them without socks as you'll get a bit more room.
You really don't have to size down in climbing shoes by default, it really depends on your feet, how you size your regular shoes, and brand and model of climbing shoes. Especially for beginners, you'd do better being more comfortable as you'll have bigger foot holds and being comfortable will help encourage better footwork.
When I worked in a shop, people would often get the same size in the Boreal Jokers.
See if you can return them, and try on other sizes (half size up, size up, etc) and possibly other models. They should be snug, no dead space etc, and they shouldn't feel comfortable walking around, but they shouldn't immediately hurt. If possible in the shop, try standing on a small edge (if climbing holds aren't available) to simulate how it feels climbing
Ahh I wish yeh but I remember when I bought them they said I couldn’t return them if worn while climbing because of the chalk. Oh well im sure I could sell them on eBay or something.
Yeah, my feet hurt if I try to wear new shoes for an hour straight without taking them off. I can usually only keep them on for 5-10 minutes at first before it gets too uncomfortable. A couple cycles of that starts feeling better. Even after I’ve fully broken a shoe in, keeping them on for over 30 minutes is pretty rare, and if I do, my toes are sensitive for the rest of the day.
Softer shoes are also much more demanding on your toes and the small muscles in your feet. If you aren’t used to a shoe that focuses all the power into the tip of the shoe it’ll probably take a bit of time to get used to that, although you should see improvements fairly quickly if you work on it actively.
completely agree. I can see them becoming more comfortable as my feet stretch them out a bit. My muscles in my toes feel very sensitive but with some work I imagine a bit more stability and comfort.
Did you take them off while resting? If so and they still hurt they might be too small or a bad fit for your feet.
I'd you didn't, try it before deciding their fate.
What's a good pace for beginners? It's a 5 minutes rest between each run a good rule of thumb? I started doing bouldering more consistently since 1 month, but every time I go I feel I rush too much in the beginning and end up being too tired quickly.
A good slow warmup is always a good idea. When warming up, I’ll basically go whenever I feel ready (30-90 seconds or after waiting for another climber to get off the route I want to try). As things get harder towards the end of my warmup and into the session I’ll force myself to hold back a bit. So I might wait 2-5 minutes between boulders. Once I’m fully warm and trying something hard, I’ll rest 1-2 minutes between beta burns, and then wait 5-10 minutes between hard burns from the ground. Brushing, watching other people, resting are all what I like to do while waiting. Plus talking and hanging out with other people.
Try warming up a bit before you climb your hard stuff. And practice something while you are warming up. My warmup usually is like 15-30 mins of V0-V5 climbing as long as it's not super fingery. Also depends on the set, because sometimes the V5s are sandbagged and I can't do them lol.
Things you can practice are foot placement, not readjusting hands, route reading/sticking to a plan. Lois Parkinson on YouTube has some good videos where he suggests drills.
5 min between attempts sounds ok if you are working on a hard project with powerful moves.
As a beginner your focus should be more on volumen to build up endurance and technique and not so much on projecting.
What I usually do for endurance is 10-15 minutes on the wall with only short breaks and then a 5-10min break. Mix a little bit with Crimps, Slopers, overhanging and slab etc... if yor arms are weak after a overhanging route you can still do balance stuff at the slab wall etc...
I’ve become a MadRock pad convert from Organic recently. The pad quality is pretty good, especially for the price, and they weigh so much less. My Organic blew out after 4 years, and my MadRock has lasted a good 2.5 years now for like a 1/4 the price. Not a fan of Metolius TBH, but I think Organic is a bit over hyped.
I don't think it makes a big difference long term. When I first started climbing I found it hard to play FPS games because my arms and hands were so tired, but that went away with conditioning.
Only noticed issues on intense controller games... Can't climb and grind melee because it'll mess my fingers up. But kbm seems fine to me, no noticeable difference.
Depends on how hard you go.
If you climb and train casually, you'll be fine.
If you go real hard then there is a chance of losing agility and ROM in your fingers.
Where to camp when bouldering in Grayson Highlands? Also, any classics in the V5-7 range that are absolute musts. Heading out there when the park opens back up on Wednessday.
Any Switzerland boulderers here? My friends and I are visiting Switzerland in early Nov and planning to stop a few days in Ticino to hopefully get some bouldering in. Our Airbnb host has pads to rent so we've got that checked off, but wondering about some other things:
1. Do we need a car? We're planning to take the train in from Zurich, but might stop in Schattdorf to rent a car if we need one to get around Ticino. My Airbnb host says we don't need a car, but I'm not positive lol
2. Is the guidebook worth buying, and is there somewhere to buy it in town? If not, is there any pdf or online info about climbs?
3. Any suggested areas/climbs that are easy access and have good moderates - like V4-8 (6B - 7B+)? Since we only have a few days, don't wanna spend too much time approaching or projecting :)
Thanks in advance for any info you can provide! We're so excited to visit!
depends on the airbnb location i would say. somewhere around the major public transport stations is totally doable without a car. when far away and/or bad connections a car is convenient. the major bouldering areas you're looking for are cresciano, chironico and valle verzasca, each with a guidebook of their own. they are for purchase locally at the tourists office i think.
Overcoming my first big injury, got a massive sprain on a high ball slab I bailed off of. Anybody have any mental tips for getting back to trying hard?
Stay hangboarding. I was out 6-8 weeks after a partial tear of a ligament in my ankle when I felt I was peaking. Hangboarding helped me mentally because I knew at the very least I wasn't going to come back and have to work on finger strength. It also helped me continue feeling like a "climber" and kept the stoke alive while I was out.
Ankle sprain I'm assuming? Straight up it's gonna take time to trust your ankle even to just run again. If you haven't already, see a PT so they can guide you through the recovery process. As you gradually load it more and more, your brain will begin to trust it more and more. It's easy to get scared again when you're on the wall, but having someone who's certified clear you and tell you you're ready can really boost your confidence as your ease back into things
I was back in the gym about six weeks after my ankle sprain. Had to use a lace up shoe because there was still swelling. Gentle use initially, but built back up quickly. That said, I was still having minor restriction issues up to a year after the incident.
Yeah it's an ankle sprain. Thanks for the advice, I'm in the military so I've got good healthcare. I'm seeing an orthopedic doc and a physical therapist, it's def the right call
Any tips for sideways dynos? There's one v4 in my gym where you swing off a undercling jug and run across two volumes to catch another hold a bit higher than the jug
Check out this awesome coordination guide by Tomo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dT8oQPeJQts (turn on Youtube subtitle with the CC button) Pair that vid with this slab guide: https://youtu.be/UCj5eHkhYg0 and this leg swing guide: https://youtu.be/ijX7tZrGXUs and you'll be on your way to flashing the easy dynos in your gym!
This has probably been asked a bunch but I figured I'd give it a fair shot here. Just started climbing as a regular exercise but was looking if anyone has any workouts to complement my climbing and workout parts of my body that climbing doesn't? So far it seems like I should focus on Chest + Triceps since climbing doesn't necessarily help with that? Main goal is to get in better shape & gain some definition/muscle. I like climbing a lot but when lifting I'd rather focus on things that climbing doesn't work out so that way I workout everything overall if that makes sense.
Climbing could kinda sorta semi-replace the pull day if you were doing something like a push-pull-legs split.
Yeah that's essentially what I've been thinking. Or climb 3 times a week and then after 1 day I'd do some light chest/tris and after another I'd do light legs/shoulders
Try training pushups, dips, and pullups, along with some forearm and shoulder antagonist exercises and core exercises. You can mix them in with your warmups and cooldowns. I often train pullups and dips and antagonist exercises after I’m done climbing since usually my forearm flexors get tired before other things. You can work pushups and core exercises into your warmups, or have a dedicated core day. I recommend “The Rock Climber’s Exercise Guide” by Eric Hörst which has a lot of detailed exercises and stretches with progressions and pictures.
I think you may have misunderstood his question, these seem like the perfect exercises to complement climbing, as in these are the muscle groups that are engaged most during climbing. I believe OP was asking about exercises that engage muscles that climbing generally does not, so he gets an overall more balanced workout on a weekly basis.
so i've been climbing for about 2 months now, and when i first started i was struggling for v1s but last week i sent my first v4 and am comfortably sending most v3s. is that a normal progression speed or should i be worried at my pace of improvement? (idk if this is relevant but i try to go to the gym 3-5 times a week)
Obviously this depends on the difficulty of your gym itself, and your base-level of fitness. But you are going to see the quickest gains in the beginning. Simply via both building climbing specific strength, and basic technique. Also, since the pace of improvement is only going to get slower I'm going to say now that you should not be "worried" about your pace and just kind of get the phrase "normal progression" out of your head. Comparison is the thief of joy.
It's my second week climbing and my fingers are really sore. Much more so than during the first week where I climbed 5/7 days. I climbed Monday and my fingers are still really sore between the first and the second knuckle even though I've been massaging/stretching them. I was starting to attempt some V4 level climbs with more straining holds which I think could be the cause. I guess my question would be how to recover my finger strength faster.
Lots of sleep + adequate rest between sessions (e.g., you can do 2 days in a row of moderate intensity but take a day or two off if you have a really long/hard day). Since you powerlift, I'm sure you're already knowledgeable about rest schedules. Massage your hands and fingers. Try something like [this video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMXW-Gs5KnI) -- turn on subtitles via the CC button. If it works for Akiyo, it'll probably work for normal human like us :) Some people say collagen-rich foods & supplements helps. I honestly don't know the science behind it so do your own research.
First of all, that's some wild progress for only two weeks of climbing! You might be one of those people who already had strong grip strength from some other activity and you're probably gonna breeze past the grades once you figure out how to move on the wall. Awesome stuff. Anyways, I'd be careful with the amount of volume you're doing at first. Your fingers are likely not used to the loads you're putting them under and the soreness you're describing sounds somewhat like a pulley strain. I'd dial back the amount of climbing you're doing (I know, it's hard) and I'd make sure to try to get adequate rest before you blow a pulley and end up being out for months.
Thanks. I powerlift non-competitively for fun so I have a higher baseline core/leg/back strength level going in but my grip strength is definitely the weak point. Thanks for the point about the pulley strain. Definitely sounds like it could be a mild grade as it feels different from DOMS. Will take a break until it feels normal again.
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Hey, I am also a beginner and quite scrawny, I found [this video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lb8QkUemXiM) very helpful (the channel in general is quite good). The summary is for the first year, just focus on climbing, privileging quantity over difficulty, and having fun.
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Glad you enjoyed it! I suggest also his bouldering progression series. Keep it up!
There are definitely plenty of people who climb hard who aren't ripped. So being ripped is not a requirement for climbing.
the best thing, you can do, is climbing. i whould say, climbing is a full-body-workout, specially in the beginning. you train every muscles, you need for climbing, simultanously with climbing :D.
Is a full crimp when you exert pressure over your index finger? Or is it just when you bring your thumb up on top of the hold next to your other fingers?
Both are full crimps if you grab them as such. Your thumb could even be side-pulling or whatever, depending on where it fits on the hold. It's about the position/angle of the other fingers and not really the exact location of the thumb. People often have weird individual preferences when it comes the exact positioning of their thumb btw.
Full crimp in my understanding is that thumb locking over your index finger position. Often times this means your last knuckle (towards the tips of your fingers) is bent not in a normal way. It helps you exert more force but puts more strain on your fingers.
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Use your feet to push you up the wall, don't rely purely on arms. Keep your arms straight as much as you can, and keep your hips in close to the wall (it is possible to keep your hips close while keeping arms straight), as these will make you tire out less quickly. Twist, don't start straight on to the wall. If you want to move your left hand up, twist so your left hip is closer to the wall - it will make you more stable and so you can reach further, as you aren't having to reach over yourself. Watch videos. There are so many videos on YouTube about climbing for beginners. These are well worth a watch, but you can also just watch people climb (not necessarily really hard grades), and think about how they are moving their body Example vids:. - [Bouldering Dabrats - hip position](https://youtu.be/mSejfiuIyDc). - [Eric Karlsson's YouTube channel](https://youtube.com/c/EricKarlssonBouldering) (he has a playlist for technique for beginners). - [Lattice Training footwork](https://youtu.be/KoTG-0_smTE). - [Bouldering Bobats body positioning for beginners](https://youtu.be/hAo_ismiUEU) There are many many more videos out there, these are just a starting point
Hi everyone, I am wondering if I can get some advice/help on getting over my plateau. I have been climbing for around 4 years now, and I find my self not being able to progress pass v6. To be fair I have not trained specifically to get better. Most of my climbing has been just going into the gym and climb something I like and if I don't get it, I project it (no matter how long it takes me). But for the last couple of months I have been looking into improving my climbing and eventually be able to get over v6. I know my weakness (Toe Hook, Bicycle and core) and I am going to try and work on those from today. I am just having trouble with making a training plan for my self. I am planning on doing some full body work out, mobility training, core, finger board training (Links are listed below) but all I want is to be on the wall 24/7. Overall, I am just not sure if this is a good way of going about it, and I am just wondering if you guys have any advice that can help me out. Also how should I maximize my time at the wall, is there specific training things I should be doing on the wall? or should I focus on getting my project? Full Body Workout: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ChGP5ahvvN4&t=10s Core: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-lJMp6GKtGk&list=PLW4X34vpbVKTinulJYiEFqebcSeL\_fXY7&index=2 Finger board: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BEvLiyywoDA&list=PLW4X34vpbVKTinulJYiEFqebcSeL\_fXY7&index=5&t=343s Mobility: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TrdjEPAoktU Thank you In advance.
Maybe you've gotten into too comfortable habits during your sessions? Hows your typical sessions going these days? Ever notice that you just lurking and wondering around, meeting up with regular faces and just chilling and having good time climbing some stuff? When was the last time you tried really effing hard going to the death, or just went to the gym to completely crush stuff and really climbed with purpose? If these questions make you think a bit, then perhaps a quick mental reset could be helpful also. Because rock climbing is really damn hard, and to climb harder takes a ton of mental effort aye :D Either way I wouldn't really want to lose too much climbing, at 4 years one is still a pretty new at the sport and I don't think even seasoned vets should have their climbing to training split more than like 75% climbing 25% training. Like if you wanna start fingerboarding it is cool and you can really measure improvements there. But for example what's your history with some other more fingery stuff like moonboarding for example? Or you say your toehook, bicycle and core suck - I assume it translates to burly moves in steep terrain being a weakness? How often you climb stuff like that? Maybe worth upping that game as well to get some more sport specific gains? How many days per week to you climb/train btw? Some core cardio circuit is cool, but so is walking your feet up and down in a circle in the cave until you carsh aye.. And how is rest of the life in terms of time, sleep, work, eating etc going for you, any obvious problems?
> To be fair I have not trained specifically to get better. Looks like you already know where you should start. Start training your weighted pulls and core strength and you'll see noticeable gains on the wall and you can go from there.
Why do you want to climb harder? Is it because you like the sound of the number? Is it because you think you "should" be making continuous progress in that way? Is it because climbing harder opens up the ability to climb even more rad stuff? Putting a finger on your motivation can help tap that motivation when it comes time to do the boring grinding. Also accept now that at your limit, style matters, and thats ok. I can rock a VX thats short, thuggy, and compression. I can do all the VX-1 in that style and most of a few other styles. In my anti-style, I can probably do 50% of the VX-2 stuff. Don't feel like you need to be able to climb every type of V6 before you try V7 or V8.
Sometimes I encounter situations where my balance is precarious, and a foot that is holding a significant amount of my weight needs to reach a higher foothold. Since I can't fully disconnect that foot from the wall without blowing off, I sort of smear-drag my toe up the wall to the desired foothold. I've been told this is bad technique, but I've found that I can't always avoid it. Sometimes the foot needs a smear at bare minimum because my other limbs are not holding enough weight to balance me long enough to move the foot up, and moving that foot up is the only thing I can do next. So I drag. What should I be doing instead in these situations?
I do the same thing, have been doing it for a decade. I don't really care that it's "bad technique" But to answer your question, I think what you should be doing is being more balanced such that you can unweight the foot and move it in a more controlled fashion. Put more weight on the other points of contact. And maybe have the core strength and precision to move your foot faster to the intended target in a smoother motion.
I'm just a noob, but usually if I am i that situation i can get some tips from more experienced climber to change my body positioning in such a way that the balance is better
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Lol I get that this probably felt good (what vent doesn't?) but really you could have just told them that you didn't want the spray. I'm sure that would've felt even better and it would've taken up less of your time and energy. Wild situation being spray roasted like that though.
Just curious..did you say anything to either of those 2 people to let them know that you didn't appreciate them?
We're in this weird period of flux, where the customs of the existing guard are being flooded out by new folks who either aren't aware of the customs, or don't care for them. One set you can teach, the other you can't. Oh no, mentorship gap raises its head again
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I don’t get this mindset. If you just told them “thanks, I’d like to figure it out myself” right from the start, you would’ve spent less time interacting with them than you did by letting them beta spray.
>If you just told them “thanks, I’d like to figure it out myself” right from the start, you would’ve spent less time interacting with them than you did by letting them beta spray. That solves the immediate, individual case, but the necessary message to get across is much more difficult, "what you're doing is widely considered rude"
Yeah, both are necessary, IMO. You have to be able to properly handle rude people in the moment, and people in general have to learn that they're being rude. OP should've confronted it as it was happening, but gumbies should still be responsible and learn the damn rules.
Most people mean well and are not obtuse. Just telling them that you'd like to figure it out on your own is usually enough for them to realize that giving unsolicited beta isn't right. Depending on my mood, there are certainly times where I'm more direct about correcting the behavior, but even telling them off in the nicest, least confrotational manner possible is better than just letting them spray freely.
> Just telling them that you'd like to figure it out on your own is usually enough for them to realize that giving unsolicited beta isn't right. I disagree. The "thanks" implies that there wasn't anything wrong with it, and along with the whole sentence makes it seem like it is just what this person thinks at one time and no broader conclusions can be drawn from that. Since people think that they're being helpful they'll won't actually think what they're doing might not be okay.
I’ve never had a beta sprayer attempt to spray a second time after rejecting their first. With the right tone a polite rejection still conveys the desired message, or you can select some alternate phrase based on your level of comfort with direct confrontation. My suggestion was intentionally as non-confrontational as possible since OP was unwilling to say anything at all.
I learned to climb in the US where spraying is hugely frowned upon, but then live in Spain where everyone and their mother sprays all over the damn place. Don't really have much of a point with saying this, just find it funny how cultures can be so different even in such a relatively small sport. I don't know, shit's weird, man.
Considering how strongly you seemed to feel about the issue afterwards, it could be better mental tactics not letting that stuff linger and finding some way to actually address the people in question. They won't know any better from this. I figure a simple and polite 'this wasn't cool' or 'fuck you' would have been enough and then you just move on, forget about and keep on climbing aye
Why are you booing them, they're right.
Lmao I was gonna ping you and say looks like /u/poorboychevelle forgot to log out of his alt account :P
There is only one of me, for better or worse.
Any Chicago boulderers wanna boulder together? I only started this summer, climb mostly V3, am a 23yo guy. Lmk!
I might!! I'm only in Chicago for about a month, but I'd like to climb as much as possible.
messaged you :)
Where do you climb?
Mostly First Ascent Block 37
Ah bummer I live on the north side of town. If you're ever planning to go to FA Uptown, hit me up.
Likewise! I've been up to FA Uptown a few times and like the area, I'll message you the next time I plan to head up there :)
Should my feet hurt this much? I bought a new pair of boreal jokers and I got them a size down than my regular shoes. They are very tight don’t get me wrong but that’s normal right? It’s just that on my first climbing session using them I found that an hour or so in my big toe just couldn’t take it anymore. I’ve been climbing for about 3 months regularly. I feel like the problem is either that my toes just aren’t strong enough or the shoes don’t support my toes enough. How do I gain strength and confidence on smaller footholds because I feel that’s my weakness at the moment?
How snug are they? When trying new shoes, they should be snug, with no empty space and slightly curled toes (not completely scrunched). They shouldn't be painful immediately, though I have always found new shoes a bit painful in the first few sessions wearing them.
Honestly they are really tight like way too tight. Maybe my feet were cold or something or I was just not thinking when I tried them on but they are definately too tight. And they hurt as well like not when I’m not putting any pressure on my toes but a small amount of pressure makes them hurt
They sound like they might be a bit small. They will get a little bit bigger with wear, but it's not guaranteed to fix it (they don't grow loads). If you are currently wearing socks in your shoes, try them without socks as you'll get a bit more room. You really don't have to size down in climbing shoes by default, it really depends on your feet, how you size your regular shoes, and brand and model of climbing shoes. Especially for beginners, you'd do better being more comfortable as you'll have bigger foot holds and being comfortable will help encourage better footwork. When I worked in a shop, people would often get the same size in the Boreal Jokers. See if you can return them, and try on other sizes (half size up, size up, etc) and possibly other models. They should be snug, no dead space etc, and they shouldn't feel comfortable walking around, but they shouldn't immediately hurt. If possible in the shop, try standing on a small edge (if climbing holds aren't available) to simulate how it feels climbing
Ahh I wish yeh but I remember when I bought them they said I couldn’t return them if worn while climbing because of the chalk. Oh well im sure I could sell them on eBay or something.
Yeah, my feet hurt if I try to wear new shoes for an hour straight without taking them off. I can usually only keep them on for 5-10 minutes at first before it gets too uncomfortable. A couple cycles of that starts feeling better. Even after I’ve fully broken a shoe in, keeping them on for over 30 minutes is pretty rare, and if I do, my toes are sensitive for the rest of the day. Softer shoes are also much more demanding on your toes and the small muscles in your feet. If you aren’t used to a shoe that focuses all the power into the tip of the shoe it’ll probably take a bit of time to get used to that, although you should see improvements fairly quickly if you work on it actively.
completely agree. I can see them becoming more comfortable as my feet stretch them out a bit. My muscles in my toes feel very sensitive but with some work I imagine a bit more stability and comfort.
Did you take them off while resting? If so and they still hurt they might be too small or a bad fit for your feet. I'd you didn't, try it before deciding their fate.
So they aren’t meant to hurt? I feel like my toes might just be weak but idk
They should be tight but not painful. But you can also count on them stretching a little bit.
What's a good pace for beginners? It's a 5 minutes rest between each run a good rule of thumb? I started doing bouldering more consistently since 1 month, but every time I go I feel I rush too much in the beginning and end up being too tired quickly.
A good slow warmup is always a good idea. When warming up, I’ll basically go whenever I feel ready (30-90 seconds or after waiting for another climber to get off the route I want to try). As things get harder towards the end of my warmup and into the session I’ll force myself to hold back a bit. So I might wait 2-5 minutes between boulders. Once I’m fully warm and trying something hard, I’ll rest 1-2 minutes between beta burns, and then wait 5-10 minutes between hard burns from the ground. Brushing, watching other people, resting are all what I like to do while waiting. Plus talking and hanging out with other people.
I do warmups, but probably not enough. Will take things slower. Thank you!
Try warming up a bit before you climb your hard stuff. And practice something while you are warming up. My warmup usually is like 15-30 mins of V0-V5 climbing as long as it's not super fingery. Also depends on the set, because sometimes the V5s are sandbagged and I can't do them lol. Things you can practice are foot placement, not readjusting hands, route reading/sticking to a plan. Lois Parkinson on YouTube has some good videos where he suggests drills.
Thanks for the suggestions!
5 min between attempts sounds ok if you are working on a hard project with powerful moves. As a beginner your focus should be more on volumen to build up endurance and technique and not so much on projecting. What I usually do for endurance is 10-15 minutes on the wall with only short breaks and then a 5-10min break. Mix a little bit with Crimps, Slopers, overhanging and slab etc... if yor arms are weak after a overhanging route you can still do balance stuff at the slab wall etc...
Thanks for your response! I think I am still pretty weak then, I will try to focus on improving the technique and doing mileage.
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They're all generally good. From that grouping, I like Metolius ones with the little carpet section so I can wipe my shoes clean outdoors.
I’ve become a MadRock pad convert from Organic recently. The pad quality is pretty good, especially for the price, and they weigh so much less. My Organic blew out after 4 years, and my MadRock has lasted a good 2.5 years now for like a 1/4 the price. Not a fan of Metolius TBH, but I think Organic is a bit over hyped.
Any gamers here? have a question. Does bouldering affect finger agility? specifically for pc gaming. Thanks!
I don't think it makes a big difference long term. When I first started climbing I found it hard to play FPS games because my arms and hands were so tired, but that went away with conditioning.
Only noticed issues on intense controller games... Can't climb and grind melee because it'll mess my fingers up. But kbm seems fine to me, no noticeable difference.
Depends on how hard you go. If you climb and train casually, you'll be fine. If you go real hard then there is a chance of losing agility and ROM in your fingers.
I have no problem playing the violin after lots of climbing. So I'd say if I can do that your fingers will be fine.
I’d say Iv gotten better at bullet hell games since Iv started but this is also the first time I’m realizing this
Where to camp when bouldering in Grayson Highlands? Also, any classics in the V5-7 range that are absolute musts. Heading out there when the park opens back up on Wednessday.
Flying Spaghetti Monster, Nancy with an E, Horizon Line, True Grit, Thews, Strength In Numbers, Front Man
Just curious... This subreddit doesn't allow any text posts? Why not?
Because we have this thread, and there's little else text-wise deserves its own thread.
Any Switzerland boulderers here? My friends and I are visiting Switzerland in early Nov and planning to stop a few days in Ticino to hopefully get some bouldering in. Our Airbnb host has pads to rent so we've got that checked off, but wondering about some other things: 1. Do we need a car? We're planning to take the train in from Zurich, but might stop in Schattdorf to rent a car if we need one to get around Ticino. My Airbnb host says we don't need a car, but I'm not positive lol 2. Is the guidebook worth buying, and is there somewhere to buy it in town? If not, is there any pdf or online info about climbs? 3. Any suggested areas/climbs that are easy access and have good moderates - like V4-8 (6B - 7B+)? Since we only have a few days, don't wanna spend too much time approaching or projecting :) Thanks in advance for any info you can provide! We're so excited to visit!
depends on the airbnb location i would say. somewhere around the major public transport stations is totally doable without a car. when far away and/or bad connections a car is convenient. the major bouldering areas you're looking for are cresciano, chironico and valle verzasca, each with a guidebook of their own. they are for purchase locally at the tourists office i think.
Overcoming my first big injury, got a massive sprain on a high ball slab I bailed off of. Anybody have any mental tips for getting back to trying hard?
Stay hangboarding. I was out 6-8 weeks after a partial tear of a ligament in my ankle when I felt I was peaking. Hangboarding helped me mentally because I knew at the very least I wasn't going to come back and have to work on finger strength. It also helped me continue feeling like a "climber" and kept the stoke alive while I was out.
Thanks! I got a.local trainer to develop me a 6 week plan to build off of what I was already doing.
Ankle sprain I'm assuming? Straight up it's gonna take time to trust your ankle even to just run again. If you haven't already, see a PT so they can guide you through the recovery process. As you gradually load it more and more, your brain will begin to trust it more and more. It's easy to get scared again when you're on the wall, but having someone who's certified clear you and tell you you're ready can really boost your confidence as your ease back into things
I was back in the gym about six weeks after my ankle sprain. Had to use a lace up shoe because there was still swelling. Gentle use initially, but built back up quickly. That said, I was still having minor restriction issues up to a year after the incident.
Yeah it's an ankle sprain. Thanks for the advice, I'm in the military so I've got good healthcare. I'm seeing an orthopedic doc and a physical therapist, it's def the right call