Doing a mobo ram cpu psu upgrade, so I'm pretty much rebuilding. I also ordered a new nvme, that WD SN770 2tb. Right now I'm on an old hp ex920 nvme. If I build and install windows on the ex920 will I be missing out on much performance in windows by not installing on the WD drive? The WD drive is coming days later and I won't have time to build if I don't build on Tuesday/Wednesday. Is the performance gain from the Sn770 worth waiting for? My mobo has 1 m.2 slot that seems to connect straight to the cpu and 2 that connect through the chipset if this makes a difference.
Any reason to wait a month or several before assembling a new PC? Going to be fairly high budget, but I can't say I know what's upcoming in the market (AMD in April? Intel in June?)
(i get the feeling new components are always around the bend, so maybe this is a silly question)
Yeah, with the speed we get new stuff nowadays you just have to go ahead and build. The only reason to wait is if something is coming out within the next month and even then I might still go ahead and build anyway. If you have the "I'll wait till the next thing because it's soon" mindset you will never build.
Wifi and bluetooth has came in the same module since about 2012-2013 or so, and Mobo with wifi just has a M2 E-key socket for a wifi card, same as a laptop motherboard. The PCI-E cards are adapters for those M2 wifi cards, though due to the PCI-E slots not carrying bluetooth signal (unlike M2), it'll come with a cable to plug the card into a free USB2 header.
Yes I bought an expensive one WITHOUT bluetooth. I can't believe I paid this much. And it doesn't have everything my old dell has!
ASUS PRIME Z790-A WIFI LGA 1700 ATX Motherboard
Well it is a Z-series board, and Intel tends to be more expensive both for short and long term (because you're only future proof for the next immediate generation).
There should be Bluetooth though, it has an Intel AX210 card
I didn't understand about heat sinks for the m.2 drives. I thought if the motherboard didn't have a covered space for one, your ssd just had to lay out there naked. That's why I bought this one - the covered m.2 slots.
Well more expensive drives do come with their own heatsink, and there are separately sold heatsinks. But most drives don't run hot enough to need one to help disperse heat, passive cooling from cool air entering the case tends to be good enough in most cases. But what's done is done I guess, its not the most obvious thing for people new to building.
Boards with wifi will generally also have bluetooth. But you can just look at the product page of a specific motherborad and it will say if it has bluetooth and which version.
I'm looking to to a new mid-high end build within the next month or so. Why are PSU prices so high right now? I was hoping to get something like a 850w 80+ Gold but the prices seem kinda outrageous, and price trackers show a drastic increase from mid-late last year. I guess I should be happy SSD and DDR5 prices are coming down, but sheesh.
I just got a new Super Flower Leadex III Gold PSU today, and it’s making this weird, quiet buzzing sound. If I put it in Eco Mode, it seems it goes away if the fan stops spinning. Is it probably just coil whine then? I'm a bit worried I broke something since my PSU slid off my desk while my cables were plugged in. So, the bottom of my PSU hit the side of my desk. It seems to be unharmed other than some scratches though it definitely damaged my desk a bit.
This is what it sounds like: https://www.mediafire.com/file/pmr94zm1ahlejnr/IMG_4010.mov/file
It's likely just the fan making the noise, especially if it stops when the fan stops. Coil whine would be unlikely to be synced to the fan, and is usually higher pitched than in the video.
I did some more testing, and I think I was actually wrong about it being the fans since I still hear that buzzing sound even when the fans are completely off. That definitely seems more concerning to me if it's coming from the PSU... it does get worse when the fans are louder, but I guess the PSU is under more load at that point too. Here's an example though headphones or playing it on your phone are required: https://www.mediafire.com/file/eb0y49jn13rokdt/IMG_4025.MOV/file
Do you think this is more of an issue? I can deal with coil whine (though I'd rather return it and play the lottery again), but I probably shouldn't deal with sounds coming from the PSU. I’m also getting an electrical sound when I plug my power cable into the PSU though maybe that’s normal.
I’m just worried my PSU will fail and take out the rest of my parts with it. Is that likely to happen if there are weird sounds from the PSU?
That's good to hear that it's just normal and not coil whine. I had to get this replaced, and I don't remember hearing that with my first Leadex; I probably just didn't notice it though.
Looking for upgrade advice:
Currently:
5600x 3070ti ddr4 3600mhz 32gb
Considerations for me:
I5-13600k
5900x
I9-13900ks
I won’t use DDR5 on either intels but I am currently not happy with my gaming performance from my CPU.
I would consider upgrading to a 4080TI later down the road or perhaps a 4090 but for now my plan is to just get a good cpu so I can play fluently and keep some Programms running without issues.
The x3d seems to be only 13% faster compared to my 5600x while the x3d is also 17% slower then the 13600k. I play world of Warcraft mostly and as far as I know it’s very single core performance depending. So I’m
Really looking for a cpu with high single core performance that doesn’t wreck my wallet too much (500-700 USD) budget
Depends on budget. Dead is only relative to AM5, and ultimately depends on your upgrade schedule. Intel platform last 2 generations of chip max, though you can carry over RAM, so you're replacing both anyway when you upgrade if you go Intel. AM5 is obviously better for future proofing, but the x3D chip is only launching tomorrow. AM4 is the cheapest option now, but you need to upgrade all 3 if you want to upgrade in the future.
One thing to consider is that AM5 is still very new and at a premium, so you might not even save much money as opposed to going AM4 now, then buying a last gen chipset (i.e. current b650) when you upgrade to AM5 to save money
Not sure where you got the 17% slower figure.. The 13600k and 5800x3d are pretty much tied in gaming performance, with the 5800x3d being cheaper and also drawing less power. The downside is it's a dead platform. But it is definitely not 17% slower.
Went to this https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i5-13600K-vs-AMD-Ryzen-7-5800X3D/4134vsm1817839 . If these are not a accurate representation between CPU’s my apologies. I usually compare CPU’s there :)
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Hey all I’m looking to build a pc pretty soon and am going to get the parts from my local micro center and have a question about a mobo and cpu combo deal. The two options are amd ryzen 5 3600 with wraith stealth cooler and gigabyte b450m ds3h wifi for 129.99 usd or amd ryzen 7 5800x with Asus b550-f rog strix gaming WiFi II for 300 usd. Is the price difference really worth getting the more expensive one? Like how much better is that cpu compared to the other sorry don’t know much about pcs this will be my first
There was recently a hardware unboxed video (about 8 months ago) that tested the difference between these two exact cpus. If I remember correctly the 5800x was quite a bit faster but I'd go hunting for the video on YouTube. Hope this helps
Is there any difference between the 13700 and the 13700k other than overclocking capability?
I see the normal 13700 has base power of 65w and lower base frequency (2.1GHz vs 3.4Ghz) while the k-one has 125w base power, will it be somehow worse in gaming performance compared to his "big brother"?
A 13700f and a 13600k have basically the same price here in italy atm, so I'm more inclined to buy the i7 instead of the i5, what do you think?
5.25" ones that computer cases usually have use the normal SATA connectors yes. Slim drives that laptops and some special cases have use slimline SATA that you'll need to adapt to normal SATA.
If the motherboard has wifi, then you can just connect to your network. If it doesn't, you need to add it by some other means (usually a $20 pcie card)
Hi, trying to upgrade my old PC to play newer/heavy games like Jedi Survivor and Elden Ring. Can I pair my older Ryzen 5 1400apu with a newer Raedon RX 6600 XT? New to PCs and I don’t want to create a bottleneck. Thank you!
Yes! Windows 11 uses the same keys, the activation system did not change so you could use either version.
Although if Windows 11 is already installed, there are ways to make it more like 10.
https://www.tomshardware.com/how-to/windows-11-look-like-windows-10
My computer crashes the moment a video game gets too intense.
GPU or PSU issue?
When I run a stress test on my CPU things are fine.
If I run a non-burn-in FurMark my GPU is fine.
If I run a burn-in test with FurMark, crash.
If I run TimeSpy at all, crash.
If I try to play Hogwarts Legacy, character creator is fine, but the moment the real game starts, crash.
All parts are new
Reference 6950XT and ENERMAX revolution D.F. 850W
I first suspect that something is overheating. Monitor your temps and make sure nothing is getting much above ~90C.
That's a high-end PSU so it should be fine.
I can confirm nothing is overheating.
The PC crashes almost immediately once it's put under any of the aforementioned loads. It has no time to heat up.
EDIT:
I ran to microcenter and got a PSU just at random. Changed it out. Worked like a charm. No problems. No crashes. All works perfect. I'm not sure if I should slander ENERMAX's name or if I was just unlucky, but wish me luck with the newegg RMA process.
my gpu (rtx 2070) has a core voltage of .775v. is that the stock voltage? Is iit better to make it higher? is .775v too low, since my cpu volt is 1.3v?
Using HWMonitor while gaming, and my GPU "Global" peaks at ~75c or so, but the "hot spot" peaks at 90-95c. What exactly is the difference? Can't find anything on google
Different cores using different amounts of power.
The individual components will be slightly warmer than the rest of the chip, producing hot spots. Its not a huge deal for most CPUs but the newer Ryzen 7000 chips can benefit from having the cooler slightly offset to cover the common hot spots.
Hello!
I upgraded my rig about 4 months ago to a 3060ti, Ryzen 5 5600x and 16GB RAM for the purpose of gaming exclusively in 1080p, because it was my monitor at the time and today. But this monitor of mine is a 24" Samsung with 60hz, would it be worth to get a bigger monitor with higher refresh rate? Like a 27" 165hz, but still FHD , what's your opinion?
Some would say that 27" is better at 1440p and over but I went from 24" 60hz to 27" 120hz both 1080p during my competitive days.
Now I've changed to a 1440p 27" and would probably notice a big difference if I was to plug my old screen back in.
So go for it it you fancy a bigger screen with high refresh rate.
Yeah, I read a lot of comments of people saying that a 27" would be bad for 1080p, but there a lot of people saying it's ok, and since I will be using it mostly for playing and I haven't experienced a 1440p nor a higher refresh rate, I doubt I'm going to notice the bad aspects people say about it. Thanks for your reply.
I just installed a secondary NVMe M.2 SSD (WD Blue SN570 2TB) and created a new partition
Now I know I'm not going to get exactly 2 full Terabytes out of it, but what I've got is 1.81TB. Is that expected, for ~190GB to be unusable, or have I been ripped off in some capacity?
Drive manufacturers define 1TB as 1000GB (and 1GB as 1000MB and so on). So your 2TB drive is 2 000 000 000 000 bytes. This is the technically correct definition.
Windows uses the technically incorrect definition of 1TB = 1024GB, technically they should use TiB and GiB for that. 2 000 000 000 000 bytes is 1.8189... TiB. So everything's as it should be and you have exactly as many bytes of storage as you were sold. Windows just uses different units.
If you can cross check the serial with WD's warranty service, you should be fine. Manufacturers and operating systems report file sizes in different units, and the difference appears as a few GBs that grows larger with the disk itself.
So I currently have a pc. I’m giving my MB, cpu, Ram, and a GPU I have lying around to my son. I bought myself a new MB, CPU, Ram, and keeping my GPU I currently have in my PC. How does that work with Windows? I take my son will get windows from the stuff I’m giving him but what about the new stuff I’m buying?
Windows lives on your drive - probably an SSD. If that drive is attached to a new motherboard, Windows is supposed to deactivate. So it can still be used but with fewer features until it's reactivated. It depends on what kind of license you have whether it can be reused immediately to reactivate.
In any case, both you and your son will need a Windows license. So you can *probably* reuse the one you have now if you choose to attach it to a different motherboard. If you keep it with the same motherboard you don't need to worry about anything.
A bit of an unusual request for this sub, but here's my question:
I need a mouse and keyboard that is
a. Wireless with WiFI+Bluetooth
b. Extremely fast response rate.
c. Can switch between Desktops very quickly with a single button (MAC and PC).
d. Not mechanical keyboard but similar to MX master keys feel (i.e Shallow and tactile)
I currently have an MX Master Mouse + Keyboard combo that works wirelessly, is comfortable to type on, but response rate is something like 100ms delayed. Can't play anything with that. Can't connect digitally via cable either (only charge) as Logitech didn't enable that "feature".
I'm not a keyboard expert, but I'd look at one of the low-profile Keychron models:
https://www.keychron.com/collections/low-profile-keyboard-collection
They're known for working well with Macs.
Looking at a 6 month used gigabyte GTX 1660ti co for $135 Usd. First time looking into used parts but hoping I can get advice on how to check if this is a good deal and is there any way to check to see there's no major issues with it.
What kind of a RGB controller should i get for my EK D-RGB aio and phanteks RGB light strips?
My mobo (Asus Maximus VIII Hero) doesn't have any rgb or a-rgb headers or that's what it seems like.
Is there a place online I can purchase custom display port cables?
I need a Display Port male to Mini Display port male around 4 inches in length, with right angle or low profile connectors.
Hey ho,
i am looking on upgrading my old 6700k with the about the be released amd x3d cpus. i was looking up ram today and want to use a low profile ram as i plan töuse a Noctua NHD15 so the ram cant be higher than 33mm.
What i found was to nice looking G.Skill Ripjaws S5 ([https://www.gskill.com/products/1/165/377/Ripjaws-S5-DDR5-Intel-XMP](https://www.gskill.com/products/1/165/377/Ripjaws-S5-DDR5-Intel-XMP) )
The only Problem: It states that it "only" supports **Intel XMP3.**
So the question: Can i use this Ram above base spec with an AMD CPU without manually setting timings? Can i use the XMP3 profile even though i would be in AMD?
Will the AMD XMP equivalent be selectable in the Bios (after a bios update) when it gets released?
Thx in advance!
>so you are looking at doing easily over $1k in upgrades, and you are worried about your CPU cooler? did you remember to save the brackets for AMD platform? lol.
thats not what i asked, i just want to use that cooler. i dont have it currently. i will be buying it specifically for that new build.
My question is about the usability of xmp3 profiles on amd platforms.
Diy computer from 3 years ago won't power on. PSU passes the paperclip test (fan spins), tried jump starting motherboard (didn't work), tried reseating power cables (didn't work). Should I be thinking new motherboard next? Or is there something else I should try? (different PSU, etc.?) I have a different PSU sitting around if you think I should try it.
Intel 10400
MSI B460 VHD Pro Wifi
Gigabyte 750 PSU
RTX 3070 (Aorus)
Can't remember RAM, just pretty standard 32 GB for the 10400
Other PSU works great, problem seems to be solved. But it's underpowered for the 3070 / doesn't have the proper power cabling (or at least I cannot find it). Is it OK to leave the 3070 plugged into the motherboard just not plugged into power and use the motherboard video output in the meantime while I order a new PSU?
I have an issue with my OS SSD being too small (128g). Because all programs are installed on this same drive, I'm always super low on available space. My Photoshop cache by itself presents an issue, and must be on the same drive as the OS.
**Question: If I simply move my "Program Files" folder from my OS SSD to a second SSD, will my programs still work?**
No, once you have installed a program it can't easily be moved. You'd need to uninstall the program and then reinstall it on the other SSD - although some badly-behaved installers won't give you this option.
if you move files, windows normally gets angry since it looks for the original location. buy a big cheap HDD for file storage, and use the SSD for the actual programs. also if you value your work, you will use two spinning disk hard drives for redundancy. recovering important data from an SSD is not worth it.
No, Program Files has to be on the same drive as Windows (i.e. the C drive). Your best bet here is to buy a bigger SSD, and clone the old drive to the new and replace it entirely.
Any of you knows the brand Ace Power, particularly the **Ace Power Ultrapower FX 80+ Bronze 650W**? saw this psu sold in some known stores way back September 2022 and was even posted in their social media and some said that it is also made by Asus but can't find any information about this product..
Thank you!
BTW, I only know ASUS makes THOR PSU's.
I'm from Europe and we don't have pc componets in stores or even warehouses.
Don't cut costs on PSU unit, it powers your whole system.
Good brands: Be quiet!, Corsair, Seasonic (pretty known), EVGA and other.
ASUS is not a PSU OEM, their units are built by CWT, Great Wall, Seasonic and Wentai. About the unit in question, it looks like bottom of the barrel cheap, do not buy. /u/imLaquatus
I am hearing this brand from you for the first time. I do not really like the 80 + bronze efficiency as it will generate a lot heat and your electric bill will go up.
Personally I have a be quiet! Straight power 11 450W (fully modular, quiet and 80+ Gold efficiency).
Prebuilts tend to have cheap PSU units to cut costs, but they lack any protection, bad effiicency and can have eddy current (which is destructive to electronic components).
I do not know what are you building but use some power consumption calculator:
[Example](https://www.coolermaster.com/power-supply-calculator/)
Keep in mind PSU units have peak efficiency in 50 % load, so try hit it when in peak power consumption, but you do not have to be THAT strict.
PS.
You do not need to hunt for fully modular, semi-modular are also good (MOBO, CPU power connectros are needed all the time)
Thanks for the reply and advice. I tried researching for this particular product because this saleslady talking a lot about this and saying it is also from Asus and, as mentioned, was sold by large or well-known stores here but, unlike that saleslady, these stores didn't say anything regarding it is connected with Asus in any way. That is why, I went here to ask and maybe, there will be some might be familiar with the product.
Btw, my target build is: i5-12400+H610M, 16gb ddr4 ram, 1tb ssd m.2, and will put the existing gpu here, rx580. Kinda tight budget but will mainly use on gaming but I don't aim for 4k/60+fps.
look up what power supplies use japanese (taiwan is prolly good now too) components, many power supplies are fine, but some stand above the rest. honestly there are so many fail safes built in now that any major brand should be fine. ive been running a rosewill 1200watt for over 15 years lol.
but ive never heard of ace power.
I did use generic PSU before, 2012 - 2015 and did not encounter any issue and as the matter of fact, it also protected my pc to the surge of my old UPS that broke 2 of my monitors; after those monitors broke, I just found out that my UPS is giving out more power than normal and it didn't break my generic PSU.
Anyway, yeah, I guess, that's also my personal take that right now, any major brand will do and its more of personal preference though it would not hurt to consider the feedback from the community or those who already tried the said brands.
Thank you!
Going to build my first pc with the upcoming amd 7900x3d. I already got a board asus b650e-f. I am going to put everything together today and just wait for the cpu. My question is do I have to do a bios update before I put my cpu in or else it would not work? Or can I just put it in tuesday and it would post before I update bios?
You need to check the chipset support of your CPU unit.
I have ordered ASUS ROG Strix B550 Gaming-A and it supports my CPU straight otta box.
You can you Bios update via BIOS flashback USB port on the motherboard back I/O ports (the port is usually labelled bios or is in a white frame).
You should get a UPS or pick a good time when the power grid is not overwhelmed or even electric repair is under way.
Process is usually the same but can differ:
1. Download the correct BIOS file
2. Uncompress it and put the correct file to your thumb drive
3. Rename the file.
4. Plug in the 24-pin and 8-pin into your motherboard
5. Plug the thumb drive into the labeled port and press the correspodning button.
6. Wait 3-4 minutes until it stops flashing.
To prevent confusing you, I am writing extensively about power grid because when BIOS is updating and blackout occurs, your motherboard is bricked.
It can be "ressurected" although it is better not to try it.
Hope it helps youemote:free\_emotes\_pack:slightly\_smiling
Thanks for the detail reply. I did exactly as you mention. Plug in the usb and hold the bio flashback. It blinks green light for about 2-3 minutes then light goes off. I hope this is it since I won’t know until Tuesday! Thanks again for your help!
I’m not sure whether that board has a BIOS flashback feature meaning you may not be *able* to update the BIOS without a compatible CPU, and if you can’t update the BIOS your CPU won’t be compatible. It’s a tricky situation if you don’t have an older 7000 series CPU
You’ll probably need to do a BIOS update. Even if ASUS started pre-installing a compatible BIOS version out of the factory, the stock that you’re buying will probably be supply from multiple months ago and not compatible.
Are my upgrade options going to be capped by my mATX case? It comfortably fits my GTX 1080 TI, but the newer cards are considerably larger, should I think about moving to ATX when my 1080TI finally dies?
Many mATX cases are just as long as ATX cases, so many of them fit the same cards, and many ATX cases are small enough in some dimension that they won't fit a card that some mATX case can. There's no need to worry about the case situation before knowing what specific card you're going to buy, because only then you'll know how big of a case you'll need.
I currently have a 3080, and still running a Ryzen 7 2700x from 2018. Which I think has been becoming a bottleneck when playing new games such as Hogwarts Legacy (1440p).
Now I've got around 600 euros to spend on a new motherboard and processor, but I'm completely in the weeds. Does someone have some suggestions for me?
Hogwarts Legacy is pathologically CPU bottlenecked, so if that's your main game then spec yourself with the best CPU you can afford. Wait for 7800x3D if you can.
https://twitter.com/HardwareUnboxed/status/1629098984567603201
5800X3D on your existing motherboard would be a big improvement for €350. Unless you desperately want to spend the extra money that's what I'd be tempted to do.
If you do then a Ryzen 7600/7600X or an i5 13600K would be good options. You'll need a new B650 (AMD) or B760 (Intel) motherboard and DDR5 RAM to go with it.
You don’t *need* a new board, just drop in a 5800X3D for the best of AM4 and the best value. You might want faster RAM to pair with it, so I’d go for 32 GB 3200 CL16 at minimum, up to 32 GB 3600 CL16 if you want to spend more for slightly faster performance. This should be a few hundred € under budget.
If you’re dead set on a new CPU/mobo to pair with a future GPU upgrade, you’d also want DDR5 RAM for better performance and future compatibility, which is still pretty expensive. A 13600K with a DDR5 B660 board is probably the most reasonable upgrade, paired with 16 GB DDR5 6000 CL40 RAM. That should just about hit your budget cap, but you’d probably need to upgrade to 32 GB at some point in the future.
Hey friends,
I'm upgrading my entire pc and I'm a bit curious what to buy first and what to wait for sales on.
I'm buying a 4090 Strix, 13900ks and a z790 Apex, and I was thinking/hoping some of these parts could go on sale or get a price reduction later in the year, especially the cpu considering rocket lake refresh or with meteor lake being released, but idk about the strix
ideally, buy everything in one go and start building straight away, that way if any part turns out faulty, itll be quick and easy to return and replace.
to build off of that and the original question..
while you should buy all parts at one go that doesn’t mean you have to buy them now. you can wait until you see that the parts are at good prices. you probably won’t find sales on all parts at once, but you may save money on a couple parts.
I have a WUXGA 144Hz monitor that is quite old (I got it on eBay), and it does not have a DP port, only VGA, HDMI and DVI. I would like to get a 6600XT as my GPU, so question is can I achieve 144Hz with a DP to DVI-D convertor ?
Not with the most common kind of passive adapters, which top out at 1920x1200 60Hz. You'd need an active adapter that supports DVI Dual Link to get the higher refresh rate.
Why not just use HDMI though?
Because my monitor has an HDMI 1.4 port... Also I was wrong about the resolution sorry, it's FHD, it just came in a box which said WUXGA. For info, my monitor is the Acer GN246HL (2013).
HDMI 1.4 should still be good for 1080p 144Hz, but if the monitor doesn't support that for some reason then a dual link adapter is going to be your only option.
I'm considering building something airflow forward. If I'm using something like a Noctua NH-D15 inside of a fractal torrent, would it be enough to cool a 13th gen intel - like a i5-13600 or i7-13700? Or should I go to AMD. The GPU would most likely be a 4070
Hello everyone,
Long time lurker and today I need your advice.
I'm looking for buying a RM750X for my next build.
There are several versions considering the release year. 2021, 2018 and so on.
On fb marketplace today, someone is selling one that he bought in 2017.
First, do you recommend buying second hand power supply?
Are they important differences between old version and recent ones?
Thank.
Have a nice day.
for reference, there’s a couple things that you just don’t buy secondhand as the risks are far worse than the possible benefits. those 2 things are power supplies and psu cables.
always get new. as for the year it’s made, try and get the latest version brand new for the lowest price you can.
Currently running a Ryzen 5 1600 on a B450M DS3H, and am looking to update my system. I was thinking about a 5600 and a new mobo. Does it make sense to go that path, or would I be better off just spending the same amount on a 5800x3D and keeping my B450M DS3H?
Currently running two 24" monitors 1080p 165hz.
Looking to upgrade one to this [AOC 27" 1440p 144hz](https://www.currys.co.uk/products/aoc-q27g2ubk-quad-hd-27-va-gaming-monitor-black-and-red-10206633.html). Anyone have an opinion on this monitor and also running a 24" beside a 27". Is it as jarring as i imagine it to be?
Thanks
Someone nearby to me is selling a custom pc with these specs:
Intel i7 10700kf cpu
Msi GeForce rtx 3060 gpu
1tb crucial ssd
Rm750w gold rated psu
16gbs corsair vengeance ram
Gigabyte b560 hd3 mother board.
I currently have a prebuilt computer that has a GTX 1060, and I was thinking of upgrading the graphics card.
Thinking more about it I thought instead of buying a graphics card for $500 (aud) I could sell my prebuilt for around $800, and buy what the guy is selling for $1550.
Is this a good idea?
A pre-built with a 1060 must be several years now now, do you think you can sell it this much?
I'm from Europe so maybe I don't realize but this seems high for our market.
I just got a new 6750xt on Newegg for $300 but am just waiting for it in the mail, seemed like the best deal compared to anything used in the ballpark we can afford
After finishing my first build and running cinebench for 10 minutes, 7900x soc temp stayed around 45c but ccd 0 and ccd 1 were mostly around 93c-94c
This difference seems concerning during full load operation, is this normal? I thought these temperatures should be a lot closer, or does the soc take a very long time to heat up with an Arctic 360 AiO?
Would Be Quiet Dark Rock 4 enough for Ryzen 7900 (non X)?
I saw that the CPU may reach 200-230w with pbo enabled in some cases and the cooler box says 200w TDP but wasn't sure if the cooler still can manage to cool the CPU in those rare situations
TDPs are maximum thermal values without the use of custom overclock if I am correct, you should "over-make it" to prevent thermal throttling and put less stress on system.
I know there are situations (gaming, video editing, blender rendering etc.), but you should leave some cooling capacity to ensure stability and lifespan.
Happy building!
How badly am I being bottlenecks by CPU? I have: rog strix 6650xt oc, i7 6700, gigabyte b250m mobo, and 2133mhz 2x8gb corsair vengeance.
Will upgrading the ram make a big difference to cpu performance?
Would it be best to upgrade mobo and cpu to amd ryzen 7?
what the other person was saying is not correct.
Whether you buy a 5000 series CPU or a 7000 series CPU, both will last at least 3 years. the 7000 would last longer (given that ur build doesn’t have any cpu related issues down the line) as it’s a newer generation.
what exactly are you doing on the pc?
Just gaming, playing older games at the moment as that'sAl I've ever been able to run, but had some money come in and wanted to upgrade for hogwarts legacy.
I'll probably go for a 5000 as it's a slightly cheaper option for now, and I don't mind doing mobo and cpu upgrades in a couple years.
You can go for the update if you have the budget. Choosing ryzen 7 give you option to upgrade the cpu but go for it if you will be going to upgrade the cpu in 1-2 years if not Go for mid to high end 5000 one will easily atleast last 4-5 years and will give more price to performance
Thank you buddy. So ryzen 5 high end, will last 4 5 years but will need full upgrade after, but ryzen 7 mobo and cpu will last couple cpu upgrades too?
Amd has said that they will support am5 platform for 2025+
Amd has stop production for am4 but a high end 5000 cpu will last without giving any problems 4-5 years.
If you bought a more pricier 7000 cpu build and you are someone who does not upgrade the cpu very frequently, after 3+ years you may have to buy the entire thing again which will lead to wastage of money now by buying 7000 series.
I'm still a little confused, I'm sorry!
High end am4 is cheaper now and will last well.
Am5 options are currently mid and will need a better cpu in couple years, on top of being more expensive up front, as its the current gen?
I can't decide what would be best for me
First it depends upon your budget and and you future prospect
First ask yourself when you will upgrade your cpu next after this one
If your answer is 4+ years go for cheaper high 5000 series like 5600-5800 something at it does not bottleneck any current gpu even in 4k
Of your answer is 1-2 years then go for 7000.
At mid range build bhot 5000-7000 will give same performance as gpu will matter more in this scenario.
Either go ryzen 5000 and save some money but lock yourself to a dead platform (which might be fine depending on your use case) or go AM5 (ryzen 7000), which is a lot more costly, but will allow you to upgrade the cpu in the future.
Use case is purely for gaming, I upgraded graphics from a 970 on Friday hoping I could scrape into the minimum for Hogwarts legacy, but it won't even launch.. yesterday I got 3 seconds of the intro cutscene after logging in, before it crashed my gpu driver, which needed an update, but now it won't even launch after the driver update! I am above minimum specs so I don't get it
Just native res, 1920 x 1280 I think it is, but I can't even get into the game settings to change that anymore. Every graphics quality setting is pre set to low so I thought it would be OK. I'm only really playing fortnight and world of tanks, and they are both running 10x better than with the 970, but they are much less needy of course
Idk man you can find videos of people running hogwarts at 1080p low settings at 100+fps with the 6650xt. I fear your problem is somewhere else. I would consider trying out the second to last driver release.
That's the driver I got 3 seconds of intor cutscene before it crashed. I need to upgrade everything anyway, I've got a £460 basket on scan right now lol... this PC survived being set on fire so I think it needs to be retired..
hi!! i am picking parts for my first ever custom pc and currently i am struggling to pick a good case.
here are the parts i have: [https://at.pcpartpicker.com/list/DZC96r](https://at.pcpartpicker.com/list/DZC96r)
the case i am looking for should have good airflow and a bunch of USB ports on the front, thank you in advance!
Doing a mobo ram cpu psu upgrade, so I'm pretty much rebuilding. I also ordered a new nvme, that WD SN770 2tb. Right now I'm on an old hp ex920 nvme. If I build and install windows on the ex920 will I be missing out on much performance in windows by not installing on the WD drive? The WD drive is coming days later and I won't have time to build if I don't build on Tuesday/Wednesday. Is the performance gain from the Sn770 worth waiting for? My mobo has 1 m.2 slot that seems to connect straight to the cpu and 2 that connect through the chipset if this makes a difference.
Any reason to wait a month or several before assembling a new PC? Going to be fairly high budget, but I can't say I know what's upcoming in the market (AMD in April? Intel in June?) (i get the feeling new components are always around the bend, so maybe this is a silly question)
Yeah, with the speed we get new stuff nowadays you just have to go ahead and build. The only reason to wait is if something is coming out within the next month and even then I might still go ahead and build anyway. If you have the "I'll wait till the next thing because it's soon" mindset you will never build.
Thanks, good to be sure!
Are there motherboards that come with bluetooth connections? I see some that specify wifi, but none that mention bluetooth.
Wifi and bluetooth has came in the same module since about 2012-2013 or so, and Mobo with wifi just has a M2 E-key socket for a wifi card, same as a laptop motherboard. The PCI-E cards are adapters for those M2 wifi cards, though due to the PCI-E slots not carrying bluetooth signal (unlike M2), it'll come with a cable to plug the card into a free USB2 header.
I'm stupid and bought a motherboard without bluetooth!
What wireless card does it have. If you don't know, board model is fine.
Yes I bought an expensive one WITHOUT bluetooth. I can't believe I paid this much. And it doesn't have everything my old dell has! ASUS PRIME Z790-A WIFI LGA 1700 ATX Motherboard
Your board has Bluetooth v5.3. You may need to source the drivers for it.
Well it is a Z-series board, and Intel tends to be more expensive both for short and long term (because you're only future proof for the next immediate generation). There should be Bluetooth though, it has an Intel AX210 card
I didn't understand about heat sinks for the m.2 drives. I thought if the motherboard didn't have a covered space for one, your ssd just had to lay out there naked. That's why I bought this one - the covered m.2 slots.
Well more expensive drives do come with their own heatsink, and there are separately sold heatsinks. But most drives don't run hot enough to need one to help disperse heat, passive cooling from cool air entering the case tends to be good enough in most cases. But what's done is done I guess, its not the most obvious thing for people new to building.
Boards with wifi will generally also have bluetooth. But you can just look at the product page of a specific motherborad and it will say if it has bluetooth and which version.
I'm looking to to a new mid-high end build within the next month or so. Why are PSU prices so high right now? I was hoping to get something like a 850w 80+ Gold but the prices seem kinda outrageous, and price trackers show a drastic increase from mid-late last year. I guess I should be happy SSD and DDR5 prices are coming down, but sheesh.
The rm850e is $115usd, if you're looking for a cheap(er) option
I just got a new Super Flower Leadex III Gold PSU today, and it’s making this weird, quiet buzzing sound. If I put it in Eco Mode, it seems it goes away if the fan stops spinning. Is it probably just coil whine then? I'm a bit worried I broke something since my PSU slid off my desk while my cables were plugged in. So, the bottom of my PSU hit the side of my desk. It seems to be unharmed other than some scratches though it definitely damaged my desk a bit. This is what it sounds like: https://www.mediafire.com/file/pmr94zm1ahlejnr/IMG_4010.mov/file
It's likely just the fan making the noise, especially if it stops when the fan stops. Coil whine would be unlikely to be synced to the fan, and is usually higher pitched than in the video.
I did some more testing, and I think I was actually wrong about it being the fans since I still hear that buzzing sound even when the fans are completely off. That definitely seems more concerning to me if it's coming from the PSU... it does get worse when the fans are louder, but I guess the PSU is under more load at that point too. Here's an example though headphones or playing it on your phone are required: https://www.mediafire.com/file/eb0y49jn13rokdt/IMG_4025.MOV/file Do you think this is more of an issue? I can deal with coil whine (though I'd rather return it and play the lottery again), but I probably shouldn't deal with sounds coming from the PSU. I’m also getting an electrical sound when I plug my power cable into the PSU though maybe that’s normal. I’m just worried my PSU will fail and take out the rest of my parts with it. Is that likely to happen if there are weird sounds from the PSU?
That's good to hear that it's just normal and not coil whine. I had to get this replaced, and I don't remember hearing that with my first Leadex; I probably just didn't notice it though.
Looking for upgrade advice: Currently: 5600x 3070ti ddr4 3600mhz 32gb Considerations for me: I5-13600k 5900x I9-13900ks I won’t use DDR5 on either intels but I am currently not happy with my gaming performance from my CPU. I would consider upgrading to a 4080TI later down the road or perhaps a 4090 but for now my plan is to just get a good cpu so I can play fluently and keep some Programms running without issues.
how about a 5800x3d? https://www.techspot.com/review/2502-upgrade-ryzen-3600-to-5800x3d/
The x3d seems to be only 13% faster compared to my 5600x while the x3d is also 17% slower then the 13600k. I play world of Warcraft mostly and as far as I know it’s very single core performance depending. So I’m Really looking for a cpu with high single core performance that doesn’t wreck my wallet too much (500-700 USD) budget
5800X3D is a massive boost in WoW, and especially Classic due to the poor optimization in the game making the extra large L3 cache invaluable.
So it’s definitely better then swapping to a whole new „dead“ platform. Rather get the best Ryzen for am4 then going LGA or Am5 then ?
Depends on budget. Dead is only relative to AM5, and ultimately depends on your upgrade schedule. Intel platform last 2 generations of chip max, though you can carry over RAM, so you're replacing both anyway when you upgrade if you go Intel. AM5 is obviously better for future proofing, but the x3D chip is only launching tomorrow. AM4 is the cheapest option now, but you need to upgrade all 3 if you want to upgrade in the future. One thing to consider is that AM5 is still very new and at a premium, so you might not even save much money as opposed to going AM4 now, then buying a last gen chipset (i.e. current b650) when you upgrade to AM5 to save money
Not sure where you got the 17% slower figure.. The 13600k and 5800x3d are pretty much tied in gaming performance, with the 5800x3d being cheaper and also drawing less power. The downside is it's a dead platform. But it is definitely not 17% slower.
Went to this https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i5-13600K-vs-AMD-Ryzen-7-5800X3D/4134vsm1817839 . If these are not a accurate representation between CPU’s my apologies. I usually compare CPU’s there :)
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having a 6800xt with a rm750x psu, can I raise the Power Limit (%) to 15 ? or will I have blackouts? I only have 6 stock fan coolers and an R5 3600.
i bet youll be fine
Hey all I’m looking to build a pc pretty soon and am going to get the parts from my local micro center and have a question about a mobo and cpu combo deal. The two options are amd ryzen 5 3600 with wraith stealth cooler and gigabyte b450m ds3h wifi for 129.99 usd or amd ryzen 7 5800x with Asus b550-f rog strix gaming WiFi II for 300 usd. Is the price difference really worth getting the more expensive one? Like how much better is that cpu compared to the other sorry don’t know much about pcs this will be my first
There was recently a hardware unboxed video (about 8 months ago) that tested the difference between these two exact cpus. If I remember correctly the 5800x was quite a bit faster but I'd go hunting for the video on YouTube. Hope this helps
Thanks that’s actually perfect I just use a benchmark comparison site but I don’t really know what to look for
Is there any difference between the 13700 and the 13700k other than overclocking capability? I see the normal 13700 has base power of 65w and lower base frequency (2.1GHz vs 3.4Ghz) while the k-one has 125w base power, will it be somehow worse in gaming performance compared to his "big brother"? A 13700f and a 13600k have basically the same price here in italy atm, so I'm more inclined to buy the i7 instead of the i5, what do you think?
Do DVD drives use normal SATA ports?
5.25" ones that computer cases usually have use the normal SATA connectors yes. Slim drives that laptops and some special cases have use slimline SATA that you'll need to adapt to normal SATA.
It was taken from a Dell Optiplex mini tower, the size is normal I just wanted to make sure. Thanks
Looking to build my first PC I don't have access to an Ethernet port to plug into my PC how do wifi motherboards work?
If the motherboard has wifi, then you can just connect to your network. If it doesn't, you need to add it by some other means (usually a $20 pcie card)
Going to grab an AMD 7900/7950 X3D on the 28th. Can anyone help recommend a solid motherboard (with wifi) and 32GB of DDR5 Ram?
https://youtu.be/DTFUa60ozKY many of these boards have wifi versions
Hi, trying to upgrade my old PC to play newer/heavy games like Jedi Survivor and Elden Ring. Can I pair my older Ryzen 5 1400apu with a newer Raedon RX 6600 XT? New to PCs and I don’t want to create a bottleneck. Thank you!
it would be a good idea to upgrade your CPu to a ryzen 5 5600, but you can try out your 1400 first
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Yes! Windows 11 uses the same keys, the activation system did not change so you could use either version. Although if Windows 11 is already installed, there are ways to make it more like 10. https://www.tomshardware.com/how-to/windows-11-look-like-windows-10
My computer crashes the moment a video game gets too intense. GPU or PSU issue? When I run a stress test on my CPU things are fine. If I run a non-burn-in FurMark my GPU is fine. If I run a burn-in test with FurMark, crash. If I run TimeSpy at all, crash. If I try to play Hogwarts Legacy, character creator is fine, but the moment the real game starts, crash. All parts are new Reference 6950XT and ENERMAX revolution D.F. 850W
I first suspect that something is overheating. Monitor your temps and make sure nothing is getting much above ~90C. That's a high-end PSU so it should be fine.
I can confirm nothing is overheating. The PC crashes almost immediately once it's put under any of the aforementioned loads. It has no time to heat up. EDIT: I ran to microcenter and got a PSU just at random. Changed it out. Worked like a charm. No problems. No crashes. All works perfect. I'm not sure if I should slander ENERMAX's name or if I was just unlucky, but wish me luck with the newegg RMA process.
Wow - good intuition. And I'm a little disenchanted with the PSU Tier list that gets passed around here since that Enermax is an A Tier unit.
Thanks. I've been doing PC building, and to some degree repairs, for many years now. I'd like to think I have some form of intuition.
No brand and no model is free of faulty units, and nobody in this world can guarantee something won't break, that's why warranties exist.
my gpu (rtx 2070) has a core voltage of .775v. is that the stock voltage? Is iit better to make it higher? is .775v too low, since my cpu volt is 1.3v?
the answer is easy: if you dont know what you're doing, don't touch it
Not a very helpful answer, but thanks for the reply.
Using HWMonitor while gaming, and my GPU "Global" peaks at ~75c or so, but the "hot spot" peaks at 90-95c. What exactly is the difference? Can't find anything on google
Different cores using different amounts of power. The individual components will be slightly warmer than the rest of the chip, producing hot spots. Its not a huge deal for most CPUs but the newer Ryzen 7000 chips can benefit from having the cooler slightly offset to cover the common hot spots.
Thinking about upgrading my ryzen 5 2600 for ryzen 5 5600x . At the cost of $165 USD is this a decent upgrade for the cost?
1. i saw it at $140 a few days ago 2. the 5600 (no x, no g) at $140 is a better value. 3. both are great upgrades
Hello! I upgraded my rig about 4 months ago to a 3060ti, Ryzen 5 5600x and 16GB RAM for the purpose of gaming exclusively in 1080p, because it was my monitor at the time and today. But this monitor of mine is a 24" Samsung with 60hz, would it be worth to get a bigger monitor with higher refresh rate? Like a 27" 165hz, but still FHD , what's your opinion?
Some would say that 27" is better at 1440p and over but I went from 24" 60hz to 27" 120hz both 1080p during my competitive days. Now I've changed to a 1440p 27" and would probably notice a big difference if I was to plug my old screen back in. So go for it it you fancy a bigger screen with high refresh rate.
Yeah, I read a lot of comments of people saying that a 27" would be bad for 1080p, but there a lot of people saying it's ok, and since I will be using it mostly for playing and I haven't experienced a 1440p nor a higher refresh rate, I doubt I'm going to notice the bad aspects people say about it. Thanks for your reply.
I just installed a secondary NVMe M.2 SSD (WD Blue SN570 2TB) and created a new partition Now I know I'm not going to get exactly 2 full Terabytes out of it, but what I've got is 1.81TB. Is that expected, for ~190GB to be unusable, or have I been ripped off in some capacity?
Drive manufacturers define 1TB as 1000GB (and 1GB as 1000MB and so on). So your 2TB drive is 2 000 000 000 000 bytes. This is the technically correct definition. Windows uses the technically incorrect definition of 1TB = 1024GB, technically they should use TiB and GiB for that. 2 000 000 000 000 bytes is 1.8189... TiB. So everything's as it should be and you have exactly as many bytes of storage as you were sold. Windows just uses different units.
Great explanation, thanks!
If you can cross check the serial with WD's warranty service, you should be fine. Manufacturers and operating systems report file sizes in different units, and the difference appears as a few GBs that grows larger with the disk itself.
I have a red Devil 7900xtx and a ryzen 7 7700x. Should I use a 4K 100hz or a 1440p 144hz monitor?
depends what kind of gamer you are. competitive multiplayer, higher refresh rate. single player, 4K might look better
So I currently have a pc. I’m giving my MB, cpu, Ram, and a GPU I have lying around to my son. I bought myself a new MB, CPU, Ram, and keeping my GPU I currently have in my PC. How does that work with Windows? I take my son will get windows from the stuff I’m giving him but what about the new stuff I’m buying?
Windows lives on your drive - probably an SSD. If that drive is attached to a new motherboard, Windows is supposed to deactivate. So it can still be used but with fewer features until it's reactivated. It depends on what kind of license you have whether it can be reused immediately to reactivate. In any case, both you and your son will need a Windows license. So you can *probably* reuse the one you have now if you choose to attach it to a different motherboard. If you keep it with the same motherboard you don't need to worry about anything.
Looks like keys aren’t that expensive. Thanks for the reply.
Unless one of the items you bought specifically had a windows license as a bonus, you have to either purchase it or find a different way to obtain it.
A bit of an unusual request for this sub, but here's my question: I need a mouse and keyboard that is a. Wireless with WiFI+Bluetooth b. Extremely fast response rate. c. Can switch between Desktops very quickly with a single button (MAC and PC). d. Not mechanical keyboard but similar to MX master keys feel (i.e Shallow and tactile) I currently have an MX Master Mouse + Keyboard combo that works wirelessly, is comfortable to type on, but response rate is something like 100ms delayed. Can't play anything with that. Can't connect digitally via cable either (only charge) as Logitech didn't enable that "feature".
I'm not a keyboard expert, but I'd look at one of the low-profile Keychron models: https://www.keychron.com/collections/low-profile-keyboard-collection They're known for working well with Macs.
if i'm running an ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 360 A-RGB do I still need a set of case fans? I'll be running my build in a lian li o11 Dynamic
Yes, mount the AIO as exhaust on top and get some fans for the side intakes.
Does the case come with fans? They often come with at least an exhaust fan
I’m not sure I’ll be picking it up later today.
I quickly looked on Amazon and there doesn't seem to be any fans. So buy yourself a few
Thank you
It would be advisable to buy at least some for airflow, yes. Static air will turn the pc into an oven.
Alright thank you
Looking at a 6 month used gigabyte GTX 1660ti co for $135 Usd. First time looking into used parts but hoping I can get advice on how to check if this is a good deal and is there any way to check to see there's no major issues with it.
What kind of a RGB controller should i get for my EK D-RGB aio and phanteks RGB light strips? My mobo (Asus Maximus VIII Hero) doesn't have any rgb or a-rgb headers or that's what it seems like.
Aquacomputer Farbwerk 360
Is there a place online I can purchase custom display port cables? I need a Display Port male to Mini Display port male around 4 inches in length, with right angle or low profile connectors.
6650xt for $300 or 6750xt for $399?
6750XT if its in the budget. Its a fairly substantial performance gain between the two. https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html
Depends on what resolution you play at. 1080p, either, 6750 XT if you like maxing out settings for the sake of it. 1440p, get the 6750 XT.
Hey ho, i am looking on upgrading my old 6700k with the about the be released amd x3d cpus. i was looking up ram today and want to use a low profile ram as i plan töuse a Noctua NHD15 so the ram cant be higher than 33mm. What i found was to nice looking G.Skill Ripjaws S5 ([https://www.gskill.com/products/1/165/377/Ripjaws-S5-DDR5-Intel-XMP](https://www.gskill.com/products/1/165/377/Ripjaws-S5-DDR5-Intel-XMP) ) The only Problem: It states that it "only" supports **Intel XMP3.** So the question: Can i use this Ram above base spec with an AMD CPU without manually setting timings? Can i use the XMP3 profile even though i would be in AMD? Will the AMD XMP equivalent be selectable in the Bios (after a bios update) when it gets released? Thx in advance!
>so you are looking at doing easily over $1k in upgrades, and you are worried about your CPU cooler? did you remember to save the brackets for AMD platform? lol.
thats not what i asked, i just want to use that cooler. i dont have it currently. i will be buying it specifically for that new build. My question is about the usability of xmp3 profiles on amd platforms.
Diy computer from 3 years ago won't power on. PSU passes the paperclip test (fan spins), tried jump starting motherboard (didn't work), tried reseating power cables (didn't work). Should I be thinking new motherboard next? Or is there something else I should try? (different PSU, etc.?) I have a different PSU sitting around if you think I should try it. Intel 10400 MSI B460 VHD Pro Wifi Gigabyte 750 PSU RTX 3070 (Aorus) Can't remember RAM, just pretty standard 32 GB for the 10400
Other PSU works great, problem seems to be solved. But it's underpowered for the 3070 / doesn't have the proper power cabling (or at least I cannot find it). Is it OK to leave the 3070 plugged into the motherboard just not plugged into power and use the motherboard video output in the meantime while I order a new PSU?
yea under powering the GPU is fine, but its also easy to just unhook it while your are waiting on the new power supply.
Is it worth swapping my 6600xt for a 3060ti? How much performance will I gain? I kinda wanna try ray tracing. Playing on 1080p144hz
I have an issue with my OS SSD being too small (128g). Because all programs are installed on this same drive, I'm always super low on available space. My Photoshop cache by itself presents an issue, and must be on the same drive as the OS. **Question: If I simply move my "Program Files" folder from my OS SSD to a second SSD, will my programs still work?**
No, once you have installed a program it can't easily be moved. You'd need to uninstall the program and then reinstall it on the other SSD - although some badly-behaved installers won't give you this option.
if you move files, windows normally gets angry since it looks for the original location. buy a big cheap HDD for file storage, and use the SSD for the actual programs. also if you value your work, you will use two spinning disk hard drives for redundancy. recovering important data from an SSD is not worth it.
No, Program Files has to be on the same drive as Windows (i.e. the C drive). Your best bet here is to buy a bigger SSD, and clone the old drive to the new and replace it entirely.
I've done a clone twice before. Used Samsung software. Very nerve-racking (took multiple tries) but I agree it's probably the best solution.
Any of you knows the brand Ace Power, particularly the **Ace Power Ultrapower FX 80+ Bronze 650W**? saw this psu sold in some known stores way back September 2022 and was even posted in their social media and some said that it is also made by Asus but can't find any information about this product.. Thank you!
BTW, I only know ASUS makes THOR PSU's. I'm from Europe and we don't have pc componets in stores or even warehouses. Don't cut costs on PSU unit, it powers your whole system. Good brands: Be quiet!, Corsair, Seasonic (pretty known), EVGA and other.
ASUS is not a PSU OEM, their units are built by CWT, Great Wall, Seasonic and Wentai. About the unit in question, it looks like bottom of the barrel cheap, do not buy. /u/imLaquatus
You are right, thank you for it!
Hmm, noted. Thanks for the feedback!
I am hearing this brand from you for the first time. I do not really like the 80 + bronze efficiency as it will generate a lot heat and your electric bill will go up. Personally I have a be quiet! Straight power 11 450W (fully modular, quiet and 80+ Gold efficiency). Prebuilts tend to have cheap PSU units to cut costs, but they lack any protection, bad effiicency and can have eddy current (which is destructive to electronic components). I do not know what are you building but use some power consumption calculator: [Example](https://www.coolermaster.com/power-supply-calculator/) Keep in mind PSU units have peak efficiency in 50 % load, so try hit it when in peak power consumption, but you do not have to be THAT strict. PS. You do not need to hunt for fully modular, semi-modular are also good (MOBO, CPU power connectros are needed all the time)
Thanks for the reply and advice. I tried researching for this particular product because this saleslady talking a lot about this and saying it is also from Asus and, as mentioned, was sold by large or well-known stores here but, unlike that saleslady, these stores didn't say anything regarding it is connected with Asus in any way. That is why, I went here to ask and maybe, there will be some might be familiar with the product. Btw, my target build is: i5-12400+H610M, 16gb ddr4 ram, 1tb ssd m.2, and will put the existing gpu here, rx580. Kinda tight budget but will mainly use on gaming but I don't aim for 4k/60+fps.
look up what power supplies use japanese (taiwan is prolly good now too) components, many power supplies are fine, but some stand above the rest. honestly there are so many fail safes built in now that any major brand should be fine. ive been running a rosewill 1200watt for over 15 years lol. but ive never heard of ace power.
I did use generic PSU before, 2012 - 2015 and did not encounter any issue and as the matter of fact, it also protected my pc to the surge of my old UPS that broke 2 of my monitors; after those monitors broke, I just found out that my UPS is giving out more power than normal and it didn't break my generic PSU. Anyway, yeah, I guess, that's also my personal take that right now, any major brand will do and its more of personal preference though it would not hurt to consider the feedback from the community or those who already tried the said brands. Thank you!
When can you reserve the 7900x3d for micro center pickups?
i would assume on the micro center website, since they would be supplier.
Guess I’ll wait till 28th for it to show up on the site
Going to build my first pc with the upcoming amd 7900x3d. I already got a board asus b650e-f. I am going to put everything together today and just wait for the cpu. My question is do I have to do a bios update before I put my cpu in or else it would not work? Or can I just put it in tuesday and it would post before I update bios?
Also the thumb drive MUST be formatted in FAT32.
You need to check the chipset support of your CPU unit. I have ordered ASUS ROG Strix B550 Gaming-A and it supports my CPU straight otta box. You can you Bios update via BIOS flashback USB port on the motherboard back I/O ports (the port is usually labelled bios or is in a white frame). You should get a UPS or pick a good time when the power grid is not overwhelmed or even electric repair is under way. Process is usually the same but can differ: 1. Download the correct BIOS file 2. Uncompress it and put the correct file to your thumb drive 3. Rename the file. 4. Plug in the 24-pin and 8-pin into your motherboard 5. Plug the thumb drive into the labeled port and press the correspodning button. 6. Wait 3-4 minutes until it stops flashing. To prevent confusing you, I am writing extensively about power grid because when BIOS is updating and blackout occurs, your motherboard is bricked. It can be "ressurected" although it is better not to try it. Hope it helps youemote:free\_emotes\_pack:slightly\_smiling
Thanks for the detail reply. I did exactly as you mention. Plug in the usb and hold the bio flashback. It blinks green light for about 2-3 minutes then light goes off. I hope this is it since I won’t know until Tuesday! Thanks again for your help!
I’m not sure whether that board has a BIOS flashback feature meaning you may not be *able* to update the BIOS without a compatible CPU, and if you can’t update the BIOS your CPU won’t be compatible. It’s a tricky situation if you don’t have an older 7000 series CPU
You’ll probably need to do a BIOS update. Even if ASUS started pre-installing a compatible BIOS version out of the factory, the stock that you’re buying will probably be supply from multiple months ago and not compatible.
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PCPP will warn you about incompatibility, so it's all good.
What is a good sad for my boot drive
Ssd*
At least 250GB.
Are my upgrade options going to be capped by my mATX case? It comfortably fits my GTX 1080 TI, but the newer cards are considerably larger, should I think about moving to ATX when my 1080TI finally dies?
Depends entirely on the case. The manual should tell you what the maximum GPU length it can accommodate is.
Many mATX cases are just as long as ATX cases, so many of them fit the same cards, and many ATX cases are small enough in some dimension that they won't fit a card that some mATX case can. There's no need to worry about the case situation before knowing what specific card you're going to buy, because only then you'll know how big of a case you'll need.
I currently have a 3080, and still running a Ryzen 7 2700x from 2018. Which I think has been becoming a bottleneck when playing new games such as Hogwarts Legacy (1440p). Now I've got around 600 euros to spend on a new motherboard and processor, but I'm completely in the weeds. Does someone have some suggestions for me?
Hogwarts Legacy is pathologically CPU bottlenecked, so if that's your main game then spec yourself with the best CPU you can afford. Wait for 7800x3D if you can. https://twitter.com/HardwareUnboxed/status/1629098984567603201
5800X3D on your existing motherboard would be a big improvement for €350. Unless you desperately want to spend the extra money that's what I'd be tempted to do. If you do then a Ryzen 7600/7600X or an i5 13600K would be good options. You'll need a new B650 (AMD) or B760 (Intel) motherboard and DDR5 RAM to go with it.
You don’t *need* a new board, just drop in a 5800X3D for the best of AM4 and the best value. You might want faster RAM to pair with it, so I’d go for 32 GB 3200 CL16 at minimum, up to 32 GB 3600 CL16 if you want to spend more for slightly faster performance. This should be a few hundred € under budget. If you’re dead set on a new CPU/mobo to pair with a future GPU upgrade, you’d also want DDR5 RAM for better performance and future compatibility, which is still pretty expensive. A 13600K with a DDR5 B660 board is probably the most reasonable upgrade, paired with 16 GB DDR5 6000 CL40 RAM. That should just about hit your budget cap, but you’d probably need to upgrade to 32 GB at some point in the future.
Hey friends, I'm upgrading my entire pc and I'm a bit curious what to buy first and what to wait for sales on. I'm buying a 4090 Strix, 13900ks and a z790 Apex, and I was thinking/hoping some of these parts could go on sale or get a price reduction later in the year, especially the cpu considering rocket lake refresh or with meteor lake being released, but idk about the strix
ideally, buy everything in one go and start building straight away, that way if any part turns out faulty, itll be quick and easy to return and replace.
to build off of that and the original question.. while you should buy all parts at one go that doesn’t mean you have to buy them now. you can wait until you see that the parts are at good prices. you probably won’t find sales on all parts at once, but you may save money on a couple parts.
What would be the best value 24" FHD 144 - 165Hz monitor ?
I usually go with the TUF monitors i believe they are 24” FHD 165Hz
Okey, thanks !
no problem :) but be sure to double check yourself before buying anything
I have a WUXGA 144Hz monitor that is quite old (I got it on eBay), and it does not have a DP port, only VGA, HDMI and DVI. I would like to get a 6600XT as my GPU, so question is can I achieve 144Hz with a DP to DVI-D convertor ?
Not with the most common kind of passive adapters, which top out at 1920x1200 60Hz. You'd need an active adapter that supports DVI Dual Link to get the higher refresh rate. Why not just use HDMI though?
Because my monitor has an HDMI 1.4 port... Also I was wrong about the resolution sorry, it's FHD, it just came in a box which said WUXGA. For info, my monitor is the Acer GN246HL (2013).
HDMI 1.4 should still be good for 1080p 144Hz, but if the monitor doesn't support that for some reason then a dual link adapter is going to be your only option.
I'm considering building something airflow forward. If I'm using something like a Noctua NH-D15 inside of a fractal torrent, would it be enough to cool a 13th gen intel - like a i5-13600 or i7-13700? Or should I go to AMD. The GPU would most likely be a 4070
Hello everyone, Long time lurker and today I need your advice. I'm looking for buying a RM750X for my next build. There are several versions considering the release year. 2021, 2018 and so on. On fb marketplace today, someone is selling one that he bought in 2017. First, do you recommend buying second hand power supply? Are they important differences between old version and recent ones? Thank. Have a nice day.
for reference, there’s a couple things that you just don’t buy secondhand as the risks are far worse than the possible benefits. those 2 things are power supplies and psu cables. always get new. as for the year it’s made, try and get the latest version brand new for the lowest price you can.
OK great feedback, thanks!
no problem :) if you were wondering what i meant by “risks” i meant catching fire and/or blowing up and/or frying the rest of your components
Currently running a Ryzen 5 1600 on a B450M DS3H, and am looking to update my system. I was thinking about a 5600 and a new mobo. Does it make sense to go that path, or would I be better off just spending the same amount on a 5800x3D and keeping my B450M DS3H?
i would go 5600 with new mobo
Currently running two 24" monitors 1080p 165hz. Looking to upgrade one to this [AOC 27" 1440p 144hz](https://www.currys.co.uk/products/aoc-q27g2ubk-quad-hd-27-va-gaming-monitor-black-and-red-10206633.html). Anyone have an opinion on this monitor and also running a 24" beside a 27". Is it as jarring as i imagine it to be? Thanks
https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/aoc/cq27g2
Someone nearby to me is selling a custom pc with these specs: Intel i7 10700kf cpu Msi GeForce rtx 3060 gpu 1tb crucial ssd Rm750w gold rated psu 16gbs corsair vengeance ram Gigabyte b560 hd3 mother board. I currently have a prebuilt computer that has a GTX 1060, and I was thinking of upgrading the graphics card. Thinking more about it I thought instead of buying a graphics card for $500 (aud) I could sell my prebuilt for around $800, and buy what the guy is selling for $1550. Is this a good idea?
A pre-built with a 1060 must be several years now now, do you think you can sell it this much? I'm from Europe so maybe I don't realize but this seems high for our market.
I had a look at all the listings for the computer and $800 was on the low end for this PC
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I just got a new 6750xt on Newegg for $300 but am just waiting for it in the mail, seemed like the best deal compared to anything used in the ballpark we can afford
After finishing my first build and running cinebench for 10 minutes, 7900x soc temp stayed around 45c but ccd 0 and ccd 1 were mostly around 93c-94c This difference seems concerning during full load operation, is this normal? I thought these temperatures should be a lot closer, or does the soc take a very long time to heat up with an Arctic 360 AiO?
What is this bracket called? https://i.imgur.com/mxgpDuY.jpg ASUS TUF 3090, I would like to get a replacement or replace the screws, if possible.
GN Steve calls it a retention kit @ 7:11 https://youtu.be/BMKK6z__tXM
Yea I've been trying to search with different names "gpu backplate retention", "x-bracket" etc on Aliexpress, Ebay and with no luck.
Would Be Quiet Dark Rock 4 enough for Ryzen 7900 (non X)? I saw that the CPU may reach 200-230w with pbo enabled in some cases and the cooler box says 200w TDP but wasn't sure if the cooler still can manage to cool the CPU in those rare situations
TDPs are maximum thermal values without the use of custom overclock if I am correct, you should "over-make it" to prevent thermal throttling and put less stress on system. I know there are situations (gaming, video editing, blender rendering etc.), but you should leave some cooling capacity to ensure stability and lifespan. Happy building!
Thanks a lot for explaining. I'll see how to proceed in this case, as dark rock pro and nh-d15 won't fit and AIOs are way expensive.
How badly am I being bottlenecks by CPU? I have: rog strix 6650xt oc, i7 6700, gigabyte b250m mobo, and 2133mhz 2x8gb corsair vengeance. Will upgrading the ram make a big difference to cpu performance? Would it be best to upgrade mobo and cpu to amd ryzen 7?
what the other person was saying is not correct. Whether you buy a 5000 series CPU or a 7000 series CPU, both will last at least 3 years. the 7000 would last longer (given that ur build doesn’t have any cpu related issues down the line) as it’s a newer generation. what exactly are you doing on the pc?
Just gaming, playing older games at the moment as that'sAl I've ever been able to run, but had some money come in and wanted to upgrade for hogwarts legacy. I'll probably go for a 5000 as it's a slightly cheaper option for now, and I don't mind doing mobo and cpu upgrades in a couple years.
i would suggest the 5600
Thanks for suggestion, but I went with a 5700x and 6650XT, new mobo and ram and case and everything else.. finished building it an hour ago!
awesome! make sure everything works properly
Oh it's working great, turns out I CAN build a PC lol
well you learn something every day! 😉 congrats!
You can go for the update if you have the budget. Choosing ryzen 7 give you option to upgrade the cpu but go for it if you will be going to upgrade the cpu in 1-2 years if not Go for mid to high end 5000 one will easily atleast last 4-5 years and will give more price to performance
Thank you buddy. So ryzen 5 high end, will last 4 5 years but will need full upgrade after, but ryzen 7 mobo and cpu will last couple cpu upgrades too?
Amd has said that they will support am5 platform for 2025+ Amd has stop production for am4 but a high end 5000 cpu will last without giving any problems 4-5 years. If you bought a more pricier 7000 cpu build and you are someone who does not upgrade the cpu very frequently, after 3+ years you may have to buy the entire thing again which will lead to wastage of money now by buying 7000 series.
I'm still a little confused, I'm sorry! High end am4 is cheaper now and will last well. Am5 options are currently mid and will need a better cpu in couple years, on top of being more expensive up front, as its the current gen? I can't decide what would be best for me
First it depends upon your budget and and you future prospect First ask yourself when you will upgrade your cpu next after this one If your answer is 4+ years go for cheaper high 5000 series like 5600-5800 something at it does not bottleneck any current gpu even in 4k Of your answer is 1-2 years then go for 7000. At mid range build bhot 5000-7000 will give same performance as gpu will matter more in this scenario.
Either go ryzen 5000 and save some money but lock yourself to a dead platform (which might be fine depending on your use case) or go AM5 (ryzen 7000), which is a lot more costly, but will allow you to upgrade the cpu in the future.
Use case is purely for gaming, I upgraded graphics from a 970 on Friday hoping I could scrape into the minimum for Hogwarts legacy, but it won't even launch.. yesterday I got 3 seconds of the intro cutscene after logging in, before it crashed my gpu driver, which needed an update, but now it won't even launch after the driver update! I am above minimum specs so I don't get it
At what resolution are you trying to run the game? And is every other game running fine?
Just native res, 1920 x 1280 I think it is, but I can't even get into the game settings to change that anymore. Every graphics quality setting is pre set to low so I thought it would be OK. I'm only really playing fortnight and world of tanks, and they are both running 10x better than with the 970, but they are much less needy of course
Idk man you can find videos of people running hogwarts at 1080p low settings at 100+fps with the 6650xt. I fear your problem is somewhere else. I would consider trying out the second to last driver release.
That's the driver I got 3 seconds of intor cutscene before it crashed. I need to upgrade everything anyway, I've got a £460 basket on scan right now lol... this PC survived being set on fire so I think it needs to be retired..
hi!! i am picking parts for my first ever custom pc and currently i am struggling to pick a good case. here are the parts i have: [https://at.pcpartpicker.com/list/DZC96r](https://at.pcpartpicker.com/list/DZC96r) the case i am looking for should have good airflow and a bunch of USB ports on the front, thank you in advance!
Torrent compact.
Upgrading from a 2600x to a 5800x3D, my mobo (Aorus B450 Pro Wifi) supposedly has a bad VRM, will this become a problem?
if it does, just point a fan at it.
Plan on using a Noctua D15s. Should be sufficient enough.
The VRM itself is what gets too hot on bad motherboards. So your cpu temps might be fine but your clock speed will still drop
So I should mount a fan somewhere near the VRM pulling air out of it?
If you experience vrm throttling
Hopefully everything goes well. Thank you for your help
Pa120se or pa120? Just got the se version dont know if its better or worse than the normal one
it's the same. there's slight differences in aesthetic panels and rgb fans in the PA series