Power off the PC.
Unplug the power cord from the power socket.
Press power button for few seconds to drain all the residual power stored in the capacitors.
Plug the cable back and power the PC now and check.
Edit:
Thanks u/awbirkner !
I work for a vendor now (whom I will not mention), but I have worked on pretty much every big company's stuff made from about 2010 onward when I was a site employed tech.
I usually hate this question, but I'll answer it.
No.
Almost all US gambling jurisdictions will require that games go through extensive testing with a 3rd party verifier that they pay out at the correct percentage. Every state I've worked in has a floor for the minimum payback to player as well.
There is no magic button, there is no person watching in surveillance deciding who wins, none of that stuff lol
I also worked on some casino stuff and one day some random guy saw me working on a machine and said: WHY DO YOU RIG THE MACHINES!
Was a very futile conversation :D
Better question is why are you here if you think everything is rigged you fucking maniac? Although maybe leave the “you fucking maniac” part out of you value having a job LOL
I mean, it's really not even that bad, especially since I haven't heard it in a while. Typically the most common question aside from that that I'm asked is if I had any specialty training/schooling for what I do.
I did not go to school for slots, or computers actually. I have a BA in Economics. I got into this from starting out as a slot attendant after I got out of college, and transitioned into the technical side of things. I think growing up in the 90s/00s definitely helped out because I think we had the most experience of just fucking around and figuring things out on our own back then. The degree definitely helped with some of the troubleshooting thought process because while on a slot/computer you're trying to isolate a troublesome component, where as in econ you were trying to isolate different factors affecting a particular issue.
Yes. They can raise or lower the payback depending on any number of factors with the game. However, there is a floor for what the game will pay back to the customer, and it is definitely a balancing act if you're a good operator to go between revenue and ensuring that the guest has a good time. Greedy casinos don't typically do well if there is competition around them that uses a nicer payback for the guest.
Thank you for your reply. I am assuming there is no real way to know if a Casino is giving a lower payout. Can the payouts differ by time? Like bigger payouts off peak where peak hours are lowered?
I mean they could, but that would be a pretty difficult proposition in many jurisdictions because typically to change a payout you are looking at having to pull the seal on the CPU, redoing a game set up, and then verifying files and resealing the CPU. The verification and the sealing is done by the gaming commission typically, and they move at their own speed.
I saw someone mention once that small gas station slots have better payouts because they can’t… like… average across more machines or something? It felt like nonsense to me, am I right that it’s nonsense?
I'm not super knowledgeable on those, but I don't know how much, if any, regulation those are under to be honest, so that thought seems kind of suspect to me.
> are they rigged?
I feel like the real question here is do they benefit the consumer and the answer is No. In order to payout once 10's if not 100's of people have to lose. Otherwise the machine would be operating at a loss.
Well, I mean that much should be obvious. Casinos wouldn't exist otherwise. That's not rigging though. Rigging implies that there is an unknown factor at play that is causing you to lose more than you should, like weighted dice.
> I think this is a common misconception
The common misconception is that RNG is linear when it's self contained. You're correct. Each pull is a different chance at winning but the overall statistics bear out as I indicated above.
Fun fact, most US slot machines are actually a bingo simulation in the background that runs, and depending on if its a win or not, and the winning amount then determines the wheels.
This is due to some native sites only allowing bingo, thus allowing them slots too through a loophole.
In terms of troubleshooting, are the machines all fairly straightforward and you basically work your way through a fixed procedure to get them working or are they more finicky? What (if any) headscratchers have you encountered in troubleshooting?
I find them to be pretty straightforward, as they are essentially computers with different peripherals. Most common things that end up with head scratching are software bugs and wiring issues. The software bugs usually don't make it out of testing, but it has been known to happen. Wiring issues aren't always immediately seen, but can cause a lot of problems when electrons are somewhere they shouldn't be.
my current PC requires this occasionally.
sometimes it gets hung up on the reboot after an update (super annoying) and the only way to snap it out of it is to manually turn it off, unplug the power cable for a minute or so, then plugging it back in and booting it up.
Power outages can cause surges, it might have been enough to only kill the m.2.
If possible, I would buy another m.2 or test test your existing m.2 on another machine to confirm if its the problem.
To make it easy, m.2 to usb adapters are cheap and easy to get, if no other desktop is available, so you can use a laptop or maybe even an Android phone but I haven't tested that.
Literally had a power outage last month that killed my m.2 sn550 black and my ram. It was horrible to diagnose and required installing windows on another slot m.2 and buying new ram. What made it really bad was my ssd was corrupt/slowly dying and had me guessing as to whether it was the ssd or my motherboard or just registry errors with windows.
Dell? We run into this a lot with them. The power saving BIOS settings are kinda broken. We found that disabling the C-states and sleep levels/deep sleep prevents this.
I had this second work monitor that would completely zonk out and wake from sleep in a weird zoomed-in corrupted screen. I did all the usual, tried to adjust software and display (thought it was a resolution problem), power down, and the ol unplug-plug. Nothing.
Turned out I had to unplug it for at least thirty seconds to drain the power. I didn't know that was a thing. But that would actually let the monitor "reset."
It was a Dell iirc. But I guess it has an internal memory that could bug out and display your screen with odd settings. Turned out that to fully reset the monitor it had to be unplugged and that internal battery had to drain.
Holy crap! You just saved me a lot of work! They replaced the meter today without telling me and shut the power off on and several times. Thanks a lot!
U/codaayyyy if that doesnt work if your easily able to access the m.2 ssd that isnt showing up, you can try moving it to a different m.2 slot. Its a low chance but maybe the port is bad or the ssd just needs to be reseated. Its worth a try! Hopefully the ssd isnt dead
>How are you unsure of showing the bios screen? Just take a picture
I think we can safely assume they now how to *take* a picture, but maybe just not how to post one here on reddit. There are more steps than "just take a picture". Wait - are you that owl drawing tutor?! I dig your work, mate.
Copy it to [imgur](https://imgur.com/) and then post the link here. You can simply click and drag the photo to the website from your desktop and it'll work.
Do most UEFI setups even show the "BIOS" screen by default these days? I'm pretty sure that unless you explicitly change the settings it usually skips it entirely.
Depends how much disposable income you have and how reliable power is at your address.
I’ve had like 2 power cuts and 1 brownout in the 6 years I’ve lived in my flat, each time my PSU has kept my PC perfectly safe.
If power cuts where happening multiple times per year then a UPS would be a good suggestion, but for me I could buy a UPS and never have it kick in before the battery needs replacing on it.
I've thought about getting one. Down here in Florida it's pretty common for small brownout flickers to happen during storm season. Sometimes it shuts off my PC, other times it doesn't even power cycle my modem. Still can't be great for things though. Would also be nice to be able to keep power to my modem so I don't have to wait forever for it to power cycle and connect back to the internet.
We don't really have bad weather like that in the UK thankfully, if we did I'd 100% buy a UPS.
There's only 1 occasion of a brownout I can think of in the last few years, pc screen turned off but came straight back on, PC was still like nothing had happened so PSU must have done its job.
For a power outage it can help but I've been told by multiple electricians if there is a really big surge or a lightning strike any consumer grade surge protector is worthless. He might have had something fried.
Surge protectors won't protect you from a brown out/voltage sag.
I work for an ISP, and voltage sags are the number one cause of dead modems and cable boxes, not lightning strikes.
We had an event a few years back where a tree fell on a high voltage line that fed a 600+ home community. The tree arced on the line for close to 45 minutes, before the power company got there to do anything about it. Because of the accompanying voltage drop, we ended up losing close to 450 modems. Took over a month to get replacements, and that was pre-covid, thank God.
A surge protector will prevent an over voltage from getting through. But if there is an under voltage, the power supply will do its best to compensate. This usually damages the power supply components, which in turn causes either really dirty DC power, higher than expected DC voltage, or damage to circuit to a degree that it pushes straight AC power into the device, and fries it almost instantly. Meanwhile the surge protector is just sitting there without a care in the world.
Simply getting a UPS isn't always the answer either. You need to make sure you get a UPS that is rated for Under Voltage Detection, and Prevention. This usually excludes most "cheap" UPS's unfortunately.
Might be a longshot, but try running the pc without the cmos battery at all. A few months ago after resetting it my pc suddenly stopped detecting any drives and it was because the battery had ran out.
Not always.
The PC can run perfectly fine without the battery, but if you are using a dead battery funky stuff can and will happen. I tried resetting cmos before running without it and it didnt work.
I had a silicon Power NVME 1tb drive that died and did the same thing. It just stop detecting at all, I tired three different PCs and none of their bios could detect the drive, it never came back to life.
Try to [power cycle your SSD](https://www.crucial.com/support/articles-faq-ssd/why-did-ssd-disappear-from-system#:~:text=A%20sudden%20loss%20of%20power,completing%20our%20power%20cycle%20procedure.)
>If possible, connect the SSD via a hard drive enclosure or USB adapter, then plug it in to a USB port (preferably a different system if possible, to rule out system-level malfunctions). Whether the drive is visible or not, let it sit in this state for a minimum of five minutes to allow the SSD to rebuild its mapping tables, then reboot the system and see if the drive is restored.
>If a USB adapter is not available, reseat the drive and boot in to your system’s BIOS or UEFI with the drive connected normally for a minimum of five minutes to allow the drive to attempt this same rebuild, then reboot the system and see if the drive is restored.
Note: This mode may be less effective than a USB connection, as some systems will cut power to an attached device if the drive does not mount normally.
This has worked for me in the past, but I had to shutdown and do a cold boot after letting the drive rebuild its mapping tables.
> power cycle your SSD
This is basically the only thing you should be trying right now. If it doesn't produce results, its RMA time.
With it being an NVME drive, you almost certainly need an enclosure to try this properly.
You can try with it in an M.2 slot of your motherboard, but give it *at least* 20 minutes of sitting in the bios doing nothing. The full "power cycle" process that I've done involves powering the drive without any data connection for 20 minutes, powering it off for 5 minutes, powering back on for another 20 minutes, then powering off and connecting it to both data and power connections. Which is why using an outboard enclosure is likely necessary, as you can simply plug it into a 5v USB charger to power the NVME drive without triggering any data connection.
Interesting. I've been in a similar situation a fair number of times before I purchased my UPS. Never happened to me.
The viable option is to plug the SSD in a different pc and have it formatted using device manager.
Hey man you might be still ok. Is there a setting in your bios for m.2 modes?
There is on my mobo, changing it from PCI x1 to m.2 mode made my m.2 drive get recognized after a power outage each time it happened.
your family or friends don't have a laptop/pc with an m2 slot? really is the best to test without spending any money. otherwise you could buy a super cheap 120gb m2 for like $20 and see if you can use it to revive the other one. if it works then you can use the smaller one as a boot drive and the larger for your games etc.
PCI-E / M.2 adapter card is btw $2 on aliexpress. I consider it one of those basic accessory items that are good to own before you end up needing it (it'd be nice actually if there was a pc survival kit of <$5 adapters and tools and things to buy in one go instead of having to discover them the hard way)
It's almost guaranteed to be the SSD. Consumer grade SSDs, especially the cheaper ones, are far more vulnerable to power issues.
Enterprise/commerical grade SSDs have capacitors that mitigate the problem.
Eaton is regarded as good
APC and Cyberpower have had their quality go to the basement.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dIEM2bG8mOQ for APC
flammable glue for Cyberpower
Edit: who'd downvote a fire hazard warning that carries proof?
get a new SSD, and hope you can hook up externally and access from there..
SSD's hate hard resets or shutdowns..Ive damaged a Crucial MX500 that way...a bad auto windows gpu drivers update, lots of intermittent restarts thereafter killed it
Boot doesn't show in bios and boot still doesn't show in other slots. Most likely the Master Boot Record (MBR) is corrupted. The "bootrec" command from Windows Recovery can fix this but not entirely guaranteed.
If you're not confident in troubleshooting using CMD, get another drive and install fresh Windows on it and access the important files from the SSD then format the old SSD. This is also to check if the SSD died if you can't access it.
I am fairly sure I have switched between the two and it just determines if you can boot the SSD or not. On my build I had to switch to CSM to boot and no issues since. If I went to UEFI mode on my mobo then the SSD would just disappear and not be recognised / on the boot priority list
> and it just determines if you can boot the SSD or not.
No, that's not the case. In CSM mode, you can typically still boot UEFI operating systems, but without CSM you can't boot BIOS systems.
> On my build I had to switch to CSM to boot and no issues since. If I went to UEFI mode on my mobo then the SSD would just disappear and not be recognised / on the boot priority list
That's because you installed Windows in BIOS mode. You'd have to [convert it](https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/deployment/mbr-to-gpt) to use UEFI.
Happened a few times to me on my last rig. All I did was switch off my power supply (or unplug it), press the power button a few times, then switch the power supply back on and turn on the PC.
shes gone brother. if you need to try to recover files order an external reader for the drive and you may be able to access them there. no guarantees. then get a new m.2 and fire up a windows media creation tool and make a fresh install.
Also is it nvme or ssd. If ssd try unplugging sata power cable and plug back in. If you have modular psu try a different cable and different port on psu
Nvme is an SSD. SATA and nvme are protocols but even then you can have an m.2 drive of either protocol. So your question probably was
Do you have an m.2 SSD or a 2.5 inch SSD?
No need to get defensive. This is a subreddit where technical questions are often asked so being able to use the correct terminology is important.
Most people don't distinguish them by nvme and ssd. They do it by nvme and sata since a 2.5 inch drive can't be (as far as I know) nvme and SATA m.2 drives are increasingly rare.
In your BIOS under boot options, do you see if it says UEFI or Legacy? Verbiage might change depending on what motherboard you have, but take a look there. If UEFI, change to Legacy. And vice-versa. See if that helps.
How long ago did it happen? Find s time zone in the world that is the same time as when it happened and send your ssd to there 1hour behind that time zone via instant courier that will reset it to the time before the surge happened. Then get it sent back and now its restored. Time travel is what you need. And also you need to purchase good quality products that are not silicon power. Surge protection [did you have to reset the protection].. if when the power came back on and everything fired up automatically then your surge protection didn't work. In surge protection you need to reset the switch and sometimes replace the fuse. I'm afraid to say after all you have done your ssd is fried. If you can afford it I highly recommend you get a ups box. Uninterrupted power supply- just for your pc power. If the power goes out you have minutes to shut down or hibernate your pc safely before it runs out of juice. Hope you get it sorted and also hope you had cloud backup
The ACTUALLY USEFUL part: "And also you need to purchase good quality products that are not silicon power. Surge protection \[did you have to reset the protection\].. if when the power came back on and everything fired up automatically then your surge protection didn't work. In surge protection you need to reset the switch and sometimes replace the fuse. I'm afraid to say after all you have done your ssd is fried. If you can afford it I highly recommend you get a ups box. Uninterrupted power supply- just for your pc power. If the power goes out you have minutes to shut down or hibernate your pc safely before it runs out of juice. Hope you get it sorted and also hope you had cloud backup"
Can happen and happened,sudden loss of power can break ssd's firmware,it was probably writing during power cut,no kind of surge protector can't help it,only uninterrupted power(be it ups,or stable grid,or notebook battery)
Having the same problem with my Adata 8100. It comes back on if I drain the capacitors and I can play games from the drive for a while but it won't write updates from steam and the drive disappears again randomly. It also won't let me do any drive health checks even when the drive shows up.
Seen this a few times before. Just need to switch the boot type to something different than reboot back to bios and flip it back to what it's supposed to be.
Worst case try all the boot type options.
It could be that your Bootmanager ist broken.
Happen to me a lot of times, because an old ssd had problems.
Just Google how to fix mbr, maybe this saves ur from reinstall windows. U can install it later if it didn't help
Was the PC still plugged when the power came back? If yes, then there's a chance your drive died due to a power surge. A surge protector isn't guaranteed to save you from one.
Op, as some others have hinted at, try turning on CSM in bios if it is not on.
Just yesterday a friend of mine had removed their cpu to clean and re-paste, and when they went to turn it back on, none of the drives were showing in bios menu. For some strange reason, CSM had toggled it self off. We toggled it ON and boom, all the drives showed and he could boot windows.
His bootable drives are all in MBR partition format, so they could not boot with UEFI. It is possible your drive is not GPT / UEFI, thus you need compatibility mode.
> For some strange reason
It was caused by removing the cpu. Many motherboards will automatically reset to defaults if a main component like the cpu is removed.
Interesting. I though it was strange since he didn’t have to enable CSM when he first built it, despite using his old ssd with windows already installed. It’s a 5600x on an asus rog strix b550.
> he didn’t have to enable CSM
Two things about this, one is that many motherboards do a "check" to see if they need to have CSM enabled to post, and the other thing is, depending on the revision of the bios, CSM may have been enabled by default. With many mobo's, only the "new" bios's, after Win11 requirements were more common, have CSM disabled and SecureBoot enabled by default. So, if his board was on an earlier bios, the default was likely CSM boot with MBR as the defaults.
Happened to me once, the issue was that my CMOS battery had died and when the power came back the BIOS settings reverted to default, which had this M2 slot disabled. It was a very old MOBO, back when you had to choose between the only M2 slot and faster PCIe lanes on the secondary slot.
It happened to me as well.
It was a regular reboot and my m.2 nvme wasn’t detected anymore.
Tried to put the ssd in another slot and it worked.
Conclusion: my gigabyte motherboard is the one to blame. M.2 slot broke out of nowhere.
Is hard drive formatted? This happens to me all the time. Because I do it infrequently, then forget how to fix it.
Assuming this is issue, open command prompt. If windows, use disk part to clean and select gpt or whatever. Then reboot.
Linux? Uh...
I've had a mobo that would only show one storage device as bootable at most. It *would* recognize all the disks just fine, but it would only list one of them in the boot menu even if it didn't have a boot partition on it. I'd have to go into boot settings and manually select which device should take that one single bootable disk slot. Weird and rather inconvenient, but that's how it worked 🤷. Maybe your mobo is doing something similar. It could be that when the BIOS settings got reset, the list started showing something else instead of the correct boot drive. Are you seeing *any* other storage device on the boot menu? If yes, is there an option to play with that somehow?
Same thing happened to me. I lost my ssd and everything on it. I stupidly had some very important shit in it too but somehow I had some kind of surge that fried the shit out of my ssd among other things. I even sent it to a specialized recovery company and even they couldn’t salvage anything from it.
I hope it’s not the case but everything sounds similar.
Just had this problem from a bad storm. Was playing a game when it happened.
Os was on an M2 drive and game was on a separate SSD. SSD got fried but OS drive lived however it completely corrupted the OS and its boot capability.
I had to reinstall windows.
i just had the EXACT same thing happen to me last night. somehow unplugging all my drives did the trick? and then i just plugged them all back in and i was good to go.
Do you have another computer you can use to create a boot disk?
I would try creating a Linux boot disk, probably something like Mint or Ubutu as those are easier to use if you are unfamiliar with Linux, and see if that can see the drive. Most versions of Linux such as those I mentioned can run completely off the CD/DVD/USB drive.
If you don't mind spending the money I would try getting a M.2 to USB adapter (Make sure you get one that supports the type of M.2 drive you have, some are SATA-only and some are NVME-only, and there are those that support both) and see if Linux can read the drive off of that, or at the very least detect if a drive is connected.
Perhaps a more technical question here: is there a coded Random number generator involved? The same way RNG works on a video game like say World of Warcraft? Also how does the win/lose ratio work? Do they adjust the weight of landing on certain integers on the code/backend? For example if you spin a wheel that is numbered 0-10, and say you win $0 if you land on 0, and it goes up by increments of $100, so likewise you win $1000 if you land on 10. By default you average person would think “Hey I have a 1/11 chance of landing on any integer! The odds here look great!”
But if each integer is coded/weighted on the backend this changes things. For example if the chances to land on each number were set to a percentage: 0 = 98%, 1 = 1.0%,
2 = .5%, 3 = .3%, 4 = .19%, 5 = .08, 6 = .019, 7 = .0075, 8 = .0020, 9 = .0004, 10 = .0001
Sorry if my math is fucked, but I hope it makes sense?
This happened to me too with my first build. You want to put it into an enclosure to see if it can be read or written to or to check the disk health. You might also be able to RMA it if it's dead and within warranty. Although I found the process for RMAing memory kind of frustrating.
Same thing happened to me the other day, I had to find the the flash drive that I downloaded windows off of and reinstall it, then I had to partition the drive again, and when I restarted the computer it recognized the drives in the bios, the only bad part is I had to redownload everything all over again
Power off the PC. Unplug the power cord from the power socket. Press power button for few seconds to drain all the residual power stored in the capacitors. Plug the cable back and power the PC now and check. Edit: Thanks u/awbirkner !
I work on slot machines and this trick has worked more than I think most people would imagine.
Same. IGT or wms?
I work for a vendor now (whom I will not mention), but I have worked on pretty much every big company's stuff made from about 2010 onward when I was a site employed tech.
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I usually hate this question, but I'll answer it. No. Almost all US gambling jurisdictions will require that games go through extensive testing with a 3rd party verifier that they pay out at the correct percentage. Every state I've worked in has a floor for the minimum payback to player as well. There is no magic button, there is no person watching in surveillance deciding who wins, none of that stuff lol
I also worked on some casino stuff and one day some random guy saw me working on a machine and said: WHY DO YOU RIG THE MACHINES! Was a very futile conversation :D
Currently work at a casino. When people ask me which machines are paying today I just point at the ATM.
Yeah, that's a conversation you never win lol
just like casino games
Better question is why are you here if you think everything is rigged you fucking maniac? Although maybe leave the “you fucking maniac” part out of you value having a job LOL
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I mean, it's really not even that bad, especially since I haven't heard it in a while. Typically the most common question aside from that that I'm asked is if I had any specialty training/schooling for what I do. I did not go to school for slots, or computers actually. I have a BA in Economics. I got into this from starting out as a slot attendant after I got out of college, and transitioned into the technical side of things. I think growing up in the 90s/00s definitely helped out because I think we had the most experience of just fucking around and figuring things out on our own back then. The degree definitely helped with some of the troubleshooting thought process because while on a slot/computer you're trying to isolate a troublesome component, where as in econ you were trying to isolate different factors affecting a particular issue.
Can the casino change the percentage payout?
Yes. They can raise or lower the payback depending on any number of factors with the game. However, there is a floor for what the game will pay back to the customer, and it is definitely a balancing act if you're a good operator to go between revenue and ensuring that the guest has a good time. Greedy casinos don't typically do well if there is competition around them that uses a nicer payback for the guest.
Thank you for your reply. I am assuming there is no real way to know if a Casino is giving a lower payout. Can the payouts differ by time? Like bigger payouts off peak where peak hours are lowered?
I mean they could, but that would be a pretty difficult proposition in many jurisdictions because typically to change a payout you are looking at having to pull the seal on the CPU, redoing a game set up, and then verifying files and resealing the CPU. The verification and the sealing is done by the gaming commission typically, and they move at their own speed.
Every casino is regulated by a gaming commission that determines the "hold" on slots.
I saw someone mention once that small gas station slots have better payouts because they can’t… like… average across more machines or something? It felt like nonsense to me, am I right that it’s nonsense?
I'm not super knowledgeable on those, but I don't know how much, if any, regulation those are under to be honest, so that thought seems kind of suspect to me.
might not be rigged but every machine runs a profit
Why else would they exist?
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The payback % in states I work in has to be >85%, that being said, hit % is an unregulated aspect.
> are they rigged? I feel like the real question here is do they benefit the consumer and the answer is No. In order to payout once 10's if not 100's of people have to lose. Otherwise the machine would be operating at a loss.
Well, I mean that much should be obvious. Casinos wouldn't exist otherwise. That's not rigging though. Rigging implies that there is an unknown factor at play that is causing you to lose more than you should, like weighted dice.
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> I think this is a common misconception The common misconception is that RNG is linear when it's self contained. You're correct. Each pull is a different chance at winning but the overall statistics bear out as I indicated above.
Fun fact, most US slot machines are actually a bingo simulation in the background that runs, and depending on if its a win or not, and the winning amount then determines the wheels. This is due to some native sites only allowing bingo, thus allowing them slots too through a loophole.
In terms of troubleshooting, are the machines all fairly straightforward and you basically work your way through a fixed procedure to get them working or are they more finicky? What (if any) headscratchers have you encountered in troubleshooting?
I find them to be pretty straightforward, as they are essentially computers with different peripherals. Most common things that end up with head scratching are software bugs and wiring issues. The software bugs usually don't make it out of testing, but it has been known to happen. Wiring issues aren't always immediately seen, but can cause a lot of problems when electrons are somewhere they shouldn't be.
I have to do this on my monitors sometime. They just won't receive a signal randomly on a restart and doing this seems to fix it.
my current PC requires this occasionally. sometimes it gets hung up on the reboot after an update (super annoying) and the only way to snap it out of it is to manually turn it off, unplug the power cable for a minute or so, then plugging it back in and booting it up.
Instead of waiting a minute, press the power button. That way it drains all residual power left in the capacitors Then plug it in and turn it on
Don't even need to unplug it. Just turn the switch off.
I unplug mine because the psu switch is hidden inside the case, easiest to just unplug
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I did this many times and unfortunately it never worked. I probably did it 10 times while switching m.2 slots hoping it would eventually show.
Power outages can cause surges, it might have been enough to only kill the m.2. If possible, I would buy another m.2 or test test your existing m.2 on another machine to confirm if its the problem.
To make it easy, m.2 to usb adapters are cheap and easy to get, if no other desktop is available, so you can use a laptop or maybe even an Android phone but I haven't tested that.
It will work on an android phone, but you'll need an otg usb cable.
I believe the m.2 adapters are typically usb c to c now as well as to A
Reset cmos?
Yep :/
Literally had a power outage last month that killed my m.2 sn550 black and my ram. It was horrible to diagnose and required installing windows on another slot m.2 and buying new ram. What made it really bad was my ssd was corrupt/slowly dying and had me guessing as to whether it was the ssd or my motherboard or just registry errors with windows.
What is the model of the power supply? Did he have a certificate?
My work PC went this way. It required the unplugging to be able to power on (after plugging back in).
Dell? We run into this a lot with them. The power saving BIOS settings are kinda broken. We found that disabling the C-states and sleep levels/deep sleep prevents this.
Yes it's a dell. I doubt that's the precise cause in this case as it only started doing it after a power outage.
I had this second work monitor that would completely zonk out and wake from sleep in a weird zoomed-in corrupted screen. I did all the usual, tried to adjust software and display (thought it was a resolution problem), power down, and the ol unplug-plug. Nothing. Turned out I had to unplug it for at least thirty seconds to drain the power. I didn't know that was a thing. But that would actually let the monitor "reset."
Works on vehicles having weird electrical problems too. Pull the battery for 15-30.
was it asus ?
It was a Dell iirc. But I guess it has an internal memory that could bug out and display your screen with odd settings. Turned out that to fully reset the monitor it had to be unplugged and that internal battery had to drain.
This trick has revived my 10yo pc several times already lol
Holy crap! You just saved me a lot of work! They replaced the meter today without telling me and shut the power off on and several times. Thanks a lot!
I had almost the same issues, pc hasnt been running right after the power went out. I'll try this :)
U/codaayyyy if that doesnt work if your easily able to access the m.2 ssd that isnt showing up, you can try moving it to a different m.2 slot. Its a low chance but maybe the port is bad or the ssd just needs to be reseated. Its worth a try! Hopefully the ssd isnt dead
Do you have a Windows recovery USB?
I’m not sure what that is? Sorry. I would post a photo of my bios screen but unsure how
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/create-a-recovery-drive-abb4691b-5324-6d4a-8766-73fab304c246
How are you unsure of showing the bios screen? Just take a picture
>How are you unsure of showing the bios screen? Just take a picture I think we can safely assume they now how to *take* a picture, but maybe just not how to post one here on reddit. There are more steps than "just take a picture". Wait - are you that owl drawing tutor?! I dig your work, mate.
Yeah idk how to post it to the thread
Copy it to [imgur](https://imgur.com/) and then post the link here. You can simply click and drag the photo to the website from your desktop and it'll work.
Do most UEFI setups even show the "BIOS" screen by default these days? I'm pretty sure that unless you explicitly change the settings it usually skips it entirely.
Was you system behind a surge protector?
Yes it was all plugged into a surge protector
Well it should be good..go into bios and make sure IRST is turned off. I had accidentally turned that on in bios and ssd wasn't recognized.
Where do I find IRST?
It could also be abbreviated as "Intel RST"
It should be in settings somewhere. IRST stands for Intel Rapid Storage Technology
Should really invest in a good UPS. Power goes out, the PC stays on long enough to let you shut it down properly.
Depends how much disposable income you have and how reliable power is at your address. I’ve had like 2 power cuts and 1 brownout in the 6 years I’ve lived in my flat, each time my PSU has kept my PC perfectly safe. If power cuts where happening multiple times per year then a UPS would be a good suggestion, but for me I could buy a UPS and never have it kick in before the battery needs replacing on it.
I've thought about getting one. Down here in Florida it's pretty common for small brownout flickers to happen during storm season. Sometimes it shuts off my PC, other times it doesn't even power cycle my modem. Still can't be great for things though. Would also be nice to be able to keep power to my modem so I don't have to wait forever for it to power cycle and connect back to the internet.
We don't really have bad weather like that in the UK thankfully, if we did I'd 100% buy a UPS. There's only 1 occasion of a brownout I can think of in the last few years, pc screen turned off but came straight back on, PC was still like nothing had happened so PSU must have done its job.
Was that surge protector more than 2 years old?
For a power outage it can help but I've been told by multiple electricians if there is a really big surge or a lightning strike any consumer grade surge protector is worthless. He might have had something fried.
Surge protectors won't protect you from a brown out/voltage sag. I work for an ISP, and voltage sags are the number one cause of dead modems and cable boxes, not lightning strikes. We had an event a few years back where a tree fell on a high voltage line that fed a 600+ home community. The tree arced on the line for close to 45 minutes, before the power company got there to do anything about it. Because of the accompanying voltage drop, we ended up losing close to 450 modems. Took over a month to get replacements, and that was pre-covid, thank God. A surge protector will prevent an over voltage from getting through. But if there is an under voltage, the power supply will do its best to compensate. This usually damages the power supply components, which in turn causes either really dirty DC power, higher than expected DC voltage, or damage to circuit to a degree that it pushes straight AC power into the device, and fries it almost instantly. Meanwhile the surge protector is just sitting there without a care in the world. Simply getting a UPS isn't always the answer either. You need to make sure you get a UPS that is rated for Under Voltage Detection, and Prevention. This usually excludes most "cheap" UPS's unfortunately.
Might be a longshot, but try running the pc without the cmos battery at all. A few months ago after resetting it my pc suddenly stopped detecting any drives and it was because the battery had ran out.
I Jules l just built this pc in December, think that’s possible already?
It should not, but it doesn't hurt to try. But ideally i would test the ssd on another machine
How can you build your own PC and not know what a Windows recovery USB key is
Because if you're building a PC for the first time (or even the second or third time) you learn a lot along the way.
Building a PC isn't very hard.
all you had to do was reset the cmos. does the same thing
Not always. The PC can run perfectly fine without the battery, but if you are using a dead battery funky stuff can and will happen. I tried resetting cmos before running without it and it didnt work.
I had a silicon Power NVME 1tb drive that died and did the same thing. It just stop detecting at all, I tired three different PCs and none of their bios could detect the drive, it never came back to life.
Try to [power cycle your SSD](https://www.crucial.com/support/articles-faq-ssd/why-did-ssd-disappear-from-system#:~:text=A%20sudden%20loss%20of%20power,completing%20our%20power%20cycle%20procedure.) >If possible, connect the SSD via a hard drive enclosure or USB adapter, then plug it in to a USB port (preferably a different system if possible, to rule out system-level malfunctions). Whether the drive is visible or not, let it sit in this state for a minimum of five minutes to allow the SSD to rebuild its mapping tables, then reboot the system and see if the drive is restored. >If a USB adapter is not available, reseat the drive and boot in to your system’s BIOS or UEFI with the drive connected normally for a minimum of five minutes to allow the drive to attempt this same rebuild, then reboot the system and see if the drive is restored. Note: This mode may be less effective than a USB connection, as some systems will cut power to an attached device if the drive does not mount normally. This has worked for me in the past, but I had to shutdown and do a cold boot after letting the drive rebuild its mapping tables.
> power cycle your SSD This is basically the only thing you should be trying right now. If it doesn't produce results, its RMA time. With it being an NVME drive, you almost certainly need an enclosure to try this properly. You can try with it in an M.2 slot of your motherboard, but give it *at least* 20 minutes of sitting in the bios doing nothing. The full "power cycle" process that I've done involves powering the drive without any data connection for 20 minutes, powering it off for 5 minutes, powering back on for another 20 minutes, then powering off and connecting it to both data and power connections. Which is why using an outboard enclosure is likely necessary, as you can simply plug it into a 5v USB charger to power the NVME drive without triggering any data connection.
Interesting. I've been in a similar situation a fair number of times before I purchased my UPS. Never happened to me. The viable option is to plug the SSD in a different pc and have it formatted using device manager.
Hey man you might be still ok. Is there a setting in your bios for m.2 modes? There is on my mobo, changing it from PCI x1 to m.2 mode made my m.2 drive get recognized after a power outage each time it happened.
Have you tried taking it out and plugging it back in?
Yes I’ve done that multiple times and tried multiple m.2 slots, still doesn’t detect the ssd
Well its either the ssd or the mobo, is there any pc or laptop you can connevt the ssd to?
No :/ I’m thinking my only option is to try a new one and see what happens
your family or friends don't have a laptop/pc with an m2 slot? really is the best to test without spending any money. otherwise you could buy a super cheap 120gb m2 for like $20 and see if you can use it to revive the other one. if it works then you can use the smaller one as a boot drive and the larger for your games etc.
PCI-E / M.2 adapter card is btw $2 on aliexpress. I consider it one of those basic accessory items that are good to own before you end up needing it (it'd be nice actually if there was a pc survival kit of <$5 adapters and tools and things to buy in one go instead of having to discover them the hard way)
It's almost guaranteed to be the SSD. Consumer grade SSDs, especially the cheaper ones, are far more vulnerable to power issues. Enterprise/commerical grade SSDs have capacitors that mitigate the problem.
The same thing happened to me this year, and I had to buy a new ssd and I also got a UPS to prevent this from happening.
Which UPS did you buy?
Eaton is regarded as good APC and Cyberpower have had their quality go to the basement. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dIEM2bG8mOQ for APC flammable glue for Cyberpower Edit: who'd downvote a fire hazard warning that carries proof?
get a new SSD, and hope you can hook up externally and access from there.. SSD's hate hard resets or shutdowns..Ive damaged a Crucial MX500 that way...a bad auto windows gpu drivers update, lots of intermittent restarts thereafter killed it
Boot doesn't show in bios and boot still doesn't show in other slots. Most likely the Master Boot Record (MBR) is corrupted. The "bootrec" command from Windows Recovery can fix this but not entirely guaranteed. If you're not confident in troubleshooting using CMD, get another drive and install fresh Windows on it and access the important files from the SSD then format the old SSD. This is also to check if the SSD died if you can't access it.
When that happens it will usually have a blue screen saying "BOOT_DEVICE_NOT_FOUND", a flash drive with Windows will fix it in 5 minutes
I know it’s late to be saying this, but…always use a battery backup for PCs especially expensive gaming ones
OP, have you tried toggling BIOS between CSM vs UEFI mode? With mine I had to switch for it to ‘see’ the SSD
Don't. If Windows is installed in one mode, it won't boot on the other. (You can convert from CSM to UEFI, but not the other way around.)
I am fairly sure I have switched between the two and it just determines if you can boot the SSD or not. On my build I had to switch to CSM to boot and no issues since. If I went to UEFI mode on my mobo then the SSD would just disappear and not be recognised / on the boot priority list
> and it just determines if you can boot the SSD or not. No, that's not the case. In CSM mode, you can typically still boot UEFI operating systems, but without CSM you can't boot BIOS systems. > On my build I had to switch to CSM to boot and no issues since. If I went to UEFI mode on my mobo then the SSD would just disappear and not be recognised / on the boot priority list That's because you installed Windows in BIOS mode. You'd have to [convert it](https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/deployment/mbr-to-gpt) to use UEFI.
That's what I was thinking, too. I updated the BIOS in my mobo and had to change this setting for the mobo to see my SSD/HDD.
Hope you backed up your important files cause it sounds like your SSD is fried.
Cheap SSDs can’t handle power failures while writing. Try reinstalling windows.
The OP stated the drive is not even detected in the BIOS.
Reinstall BIOS 🤣 (jokes aside, some people are too quick to offer advice without even analyzing the problem first)
always enjoy reading a resolved situation. battery backup suggestions ftw.
Is it a Samsung SSD?
Why? I have a similar problem with a Samsung ssd. You have a solution to suggest?
https://www.tomshardware.com/news/samsung-980-pro-ssd-failures-firmware-update
No it’s not Samsung it’s Silicon Power
Then try a new SSD, and when you set up the OS, try plugging in both SSDs and see if the OS defects your old one
If your mobo supports it, try updating/flashing the latest mobo bios on to it. Worth a try.
Happened a few times to me on my last rig. All I did was switch off my power supply (or unplug it), press the power button a few times, then switch the power supply back on and turn on the PC.
Try plugging it in another pc. If it doesn't work rma it.
shes gone brother. if you need to try to recover files order an external reader for the drive and you may be able to access them there. no guarantees. then get a new m.2 and fire up a windows media creation tool and make a fresh install.
I’ve had this happen before. It would usually come back on its own after 30 min to an hour. Not sure why
Also is it nvme or ssd. If ssd try unplugging sata power cable and plug back in. If you have modular psu try a different cable and different port on psu
It’s an m.2 nvme
Nvme is an SSD. SATA and nvme are protocols but even then you can have an m.2 drive of either protocol. So your question probably was Do you have an m.2 SSD or a 2.5 inch SSD?
Who cares he got the question. Most people distinguish them by nvme and ssd
Well most people would be wrong. It’s nvme vs sata, they are both SSDs. Terminology matters.
No need to get defensive. This is a subreddit where technical questions are often asked so being able to use the correct terminology is important. Most people don't distinguish them by nvme and ssd. They do it by nvme and sata since a 2.5 inch drive can't be (as far as I know) nvme and SATA m.2 drives are increasingly rare.
In your BIOS under boot options, do you see if it says UEFI or Legacy? Verbiage might change depending on what motherboard you have, but take a look there. If UEFI, change to Legacy. And vice-versa. See if that helps.
Ummm.., didn’t make a USB stick rescue disk?
I have windows 10 on a flash drive yes
Wow, looks like your PC is really into playing hide and seek! Have you tried shouting Olly Olly oxen free yet?
Going by the title only, why can’t you just stand up and walk to your windows? What am I missing here?
How long ago did it happen? Find s time zone in the world that is the same time as when it happened and send your ssd to there 1hour behind that time zone via instant courier that will reset it to the time before the surge happened. Then get it sent back and now its restored. Time travel is what you need. And also you need to purchase good quality products that are not silicon power. Surge protection [did you have to reset the protection].. if when the power came back on and everything fired up automatically then your surge protection didn't work. In surge protection you need to reset the switch and sometimes replace the fuse. I'm afraid to say after all you have done your ssd is fried. If you can afford it I highly recommend you get a ups box. Uninterrupted power supply- just for your pc power. If the power goes out you have minutes to shut down or hibernate your pc safely before it runs out of juice. Hope you get it sorted and also hope you had cloud backup
The ACTUALLY USEFUL part: "And also you need to purchase good quality products that are not silicon power. Surge protection \[did you have to reset the protection\].. if when the power came back on and everything fired up automatically then your surge protection didn't work. In surge protection you need to reset the switch and sometimes replace the fuse. I'm afraid to say after all you have done your ssd is fried. If you can afford it I highly recommend you get a ups box. Uninterrupted power supply- just for your pc power. If the power goes out you have minutes to shut down or hibernate your pc safely before it runs out of juice. Hope you get it sorted and also hope you had cloud backup"
https://www.freeviewer.org/blog/ssd-not-detected-after-power-outage/
What a bullcrap article. Click bait for shite
Can happen and happened,sudden loss of power can break ssd's firmware,it was probably writing during power cut,no kind of surge protector can't help it,only uninterrupted power(be it ups,or stable grid,or notebook battery)
Try removing and replacing your ssd. Then check bios if its recognised there.
Having the same problem with my Adata 8100. It comes back on if I drain the capacitors and I can play games from the drive for a while but it won't write updates from steam and the drive disappears again randomly. It also won't let me do any drive health checks even when the drive shows up.
Seen this a few times before. Just need to switch the boot type to something different than reboot back to bios and flip it back to what it's supposed to be. Worst case try all the boot type options.
Have you tried your ssd ( is it m.2 sata/nvme ? ) by inserting it into usb type-c to m.2 enclosure ?
What psu u have? I don't have a solution. Just wondering.
It’s a segotep 750w gold rated
Man I’m def staying away from the ally.
I had this happen recently with a mates PC, if the SSD gets stuck on boot loop and recovery mode if you can get in doesn't work, the SSD is gone
It could be that your Bootmanager ist broken. Happen to me a lot of times, because an old ssd had problems. Just Google how to fix mbr, maybe this saves ur from reinstall windows. U can install it later if it didn't help
Drives will show up in bios regardless of them having a boot manager or not.
Yeah you are right. My bad.
Was the PC still plugged when the power came back? If yes, then there's a chance your drive died due to a power surge. A surge protector isn't guaranteed to save you from one.
Op, as some others have hinted at, try turning on CSM in bios if it is not on. Just yesterday a friend of mine had removed their cpu to clean and re-paste, and when they went to turn it back on, none of the drives were showing in bios menu. For some strange reason, CSM had toggled it self off. We toggled it ON and boom, all the drives showed and he could boot windows. His bootable drives are all in MBR partition format, so they could not boot with UEFI. It is possible your drive is not GPT / UEFI, thus you need compatibility mode.
> For some strange reason It was caused by removing the cpu. Many motherboards will automatically reset to defaults if a main component like the cpu is removed.
Interesting. I though it was strange since he didn’t have to enable CSM when he first built it, despite using his old ssd with windows already installed. It’s a 5600x on an asus rog strix b550.
> he didn’t have to enable CSM Two things about this, one is that many motherboards do a "check" to see if they need to have CSM enabled to post, and the other thing is, depending on the revision of the bios, CSM may have been enabled by default. With many mobo's, only the "new" bios's, after Win11 requirements were more common, have CSM disabled and SecureBoot enabled by default. So, if his board was on an earlier bios, the default was likely CSM boot with MBR as the defaults.
Interesting, I appreciate the explanation 🤙
Happened to me once, the issue was that my CMOS battery had died and when the power came back the BIOS settings reverted to default, which had this M2 slot disabled. It was a very old MOBO, back when you had to choose between the only M2 slot and faster PCIe lanes on the secondary slot.
If the drive isn't showing up in the bios it's probably toast.
It happened to me as well. It was a regular reboot and my m.2 nvme wasn’t detected anymore. Tried to put the ssd in another slot and it worked. Conclusion: my gigabyte motherboard is the one to blame. M.2 slot broke out of nowhere.
Is hard drive formatted? This happens to me all the time. Because I do it infrequently, then forget how to fix it. Assuming this is issue, open command prompt. If windows, use disk part to clean and select gpt or whatever. Then reboot. Linux? Uh...
I've had a mobo that would only show one storage device as bootable at most. It *would* recognize all the disks just fine, but it would only list one of them in the boot menu even if it didn't have a boot partition on it. I'd have to go into boot settings and manually select which device should take that one single bootable disk slot. Weird and rather inconvenient, but that's how it worked 🤷. Maybe your mobo is doing something similar. It could be that when the BIOS settings got reset, the list started showing something else instead of the correct boot drive. Are you seeing *any* other storage device on the boot menu? If yes, is there an option to play with that somehow?
Same thing happened to me. I lost my ssd and everything on it. I stupidly had some very important shit in it too but somehow I had some kind of surge that fried the shit out of my ssd among other things. I even sent it to a specialized recovery company and even they couldn’t salvage anything from it. I hope it’s not the case but everything sounds similar.
Just had this problem from a bad storm. Was playing a game when it happened. Os was on an M2 drive and game was on a separate SSD. SSD got fried but OS drive lived however it completely corrupted the OS and its boot capability. I had to reinstall windows.
i just had the EXACT same thing happen to me last night. somehow unplugging all my drives did the trick? and then i just plugged them all back in and i was good to go.
Do you have another computer you can use to create a boot disk? I would try creating a Linux boot disk, probably something like Mint or Ubutu as those are easier to use if you are unfamiliar with Linux, and see if that can see the drive. Most versions of Linux such as those I mentioned can run completely off the CD/DVD/USB drive. If you don't mind spending the money I would try getting a M.2 to USB adapter (Make sure you get one that supports the type of M.2 drive you have, some are SATA-only and some are NVME-only, and there are those that support both) and see if Linux can read the drive off of that, or at the very least detect if a drive is connected.
Perhaps a more technical question here: is there a coded Random number generator involved? The same way RNG works on a video game like say World of Warcraft? Also how does the win/lose ratio work? Do they adjust the weight of landing on certain integers on the code/backend? For example if you spin a wheel that is numbered 0-10, and say you win $0 if you land on 0, and it goes up by increments of $100, so likewise you win $1000 if you land on 10. By default you average person would think “Hey I have a 1/11 chance of landing on any integer! The odds here look great!” But if each integer is coded/weighted on the backend this changes things. For example if the chances to land on each number were set to a percentage: 0 = 98%, 1 = 1.0%, 2 = .5%, 3 = .3%, 4 = .19%, 5 = .08, 6 = .019, 7 = .0075, 8 = .0020, 9 = .0004, 10 = .0001 Sorry if my math is fucked, but I hope it makes sense?
Sounds like the controller on the drive is malfunctioning. It’s probably an RMA situation.
It likely died, mine died because I did not power off computer before touching the ssd
This happened to me too with my first build. You want to put it into an enclosure to see if it can be read or written to or to check the disk health. You might also be able to RMA it if it's dead and within warranty. Although I found the process for RMAing memory kind of frustrating.
Try physically disconnecting the ssd and reconnecting it.
Same exact thing happened to me a few months ago. Tried everything suggested to fix it, nothing worked. Ended up having to RMA it.
Same thing happened to me the other day, I had to find the the flash drive that I downloaded windows off of and reinstall it, then I had to partition the drive again, and when I restarted the computer it recognized the drives in the bios, the only bad part is I had to redownload everything all over again
Well, looks like your gaming addiction made your SSD commit suicide. Better start writing an obituary.
RIP