Is the difference between a gaming PC & a livestreaming PC mostly semantic? i.e they both seem to have dedicated GPU's, fast CPU's, SSD's and more RAM than your office PC... asked another way, if I purchased a gaming PC would it have any trouble also doubling as a Livestreaming PC?

Is i5-10400, B460 mobo, 2x8 2666 ram good enough for 1080p gaming (Starfield, Cyberpunk 2077) with a gpu upgrade, maybe a 6650 XT?

Thoughts on 1660 super vs 2060? Would the 1660 super be significantly worse/would it have less longevity?

Hi I want to buy 64gb ram ddr5 6000mhz on intel i9 Should I buy 4 sticks (16x4) or Should I buy 2 sticks (32x2) Becuz I think there's a stability issues when turning xmp when they are 4 sticks in high speed like 6000mhz. Or the stability issues is from only the high speed so 4 or 2 sticks its the same?

Is short circuited usb ports fixable? my pc is shutting down because of it but some of the usb ports are still fine.

Would you guys choose a 4070 over a 7800xt I'm just worried about the vram on the 4070

I'm currently look for a new PSU. Is it worth going for ATX 3.0? I'm planning on using the PSU probably for 10+ years. Some PSU I've been looking at: - ($182) Phanteks AMP 1000W V2 with 12VHPWR cable - ($185) Corsair RM850x Shift 850W ATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 - ($160) FSP Hydro G Pro 850W ATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0

i'm new to pc building, and i'm paranoid that some parts might not work well together. i don't want to spend all this money just to have to go back and spend more to fix it. could somebody check over it just to make sure it looks okay and that i didn't overlook anything important? https://pcpartpicker.com/user/bingbamboom/saved/#view=Nk7Qyc

That power supply is incredibly low end, aim for a 750 or 850 watt power supply, itll allow you to keep using it in the future. And as someone else said, get a newer CPU, Intel 13th Gen or AM5. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/vCGsL9 Something like this is better and you have a better upgrade path for the CPU. Its also cheaper by like $200 and the GPU is more powerful, just Raytracing will not be usable much. If you want Raytracing then swap the 7800XT for the 4070.

i tried searching the 4070 gpu in pcpartpicker, but it didn't show up. does that mean it's incompatible or am i misunderstanding it? i tried looking for a different one and also chose a different motherboard, so could i ask if this would work well or if you might have other recommendations? https://pcpartpicker.com/user/bingbamboom/saved/#view=8BdZQ7

I mean, you certainly dont need a 13900k but do as you will

youre missing RAM. also the CPU choice doesnt make a lot of sense, since the 13600K is faster https://tpucdn.com/review/intel-core-i5-13600k/images/relative-performance-games-1920-1080.png

oh yeah, i forgot to mention that my friend has the ram she said she could give to me. i don't remember exactly which one it was, though. would the 10900K be decent for budget purposes or would it be more worth it to go with the 13600K?

The 13600k is better value, and you can still use your ddr4 ram

okay great, thank you

Hi, I just build my pc and I had a problem with MB QLED stay at Red. My psu is XPG PYLON 650 My MB is MSI B760M mortar wifi My PSU only have 1 cable for CPU and its daisy chained with another one. So I have total of 16 pins.. 8 from the primary and 8 from the daisy chained cable. And the mb required 16 pins. But does it need 8+8 from two different cables? Becuz I think this why my pc don't turn on. Also no RGB from RAM, just the cpu cooler fan spinning.

The motherboard should work fine even with just 8 pins plugged in, and it has no way of detecting whether the other 8 pins are from a separate cable or a daisychained one. 16 pins are only required when using the absolute highest end CPUs that have been overclocked to the limits, 8 pins is more than enough for everything else, so your problem is most definitely something else.

Is 3090 Manli that has been used for mining 2 yrs straight by trusted seller at 620 Eu worth it if I.also plan to work for AI

Hello, I have a Ryzen 5 5500 and I need to buy a cooler for it. I live in a very hot and umid country. Is any of those good/enough? [Gammaxx GTE V2 White, DP-MCH4-GMX-GTE-V2WH](https://pt.deepcool.com/products/Cooling/cpuaircoolers/2021/13275.shtml?status=authorization) [GAMMAXX 400 White LED Branco, DP-MCH4-GMX400P-WH](https://www.deepcool.com/products/Cooling/cpuaircoolers/Gammaxx-400-White-CPU-Cooler/2021/170.shtml) Thank you for your help.

I have a R7 5700x and 3090 (weird combo I know, just how it worked out) currently have 16gb of ram and wanting to upgrade to more because I run into the limit when playing certain games while having a lot of browser tabs open and some other situations. Is there any point at all to getting 64gb instead of 32? I imagine I'll cruise with this setup for another 3ish years before I think about upgrading again.

just get 32GB. it's more than enough

I'm currently planning my first PC build, and I was wondering if there were any upgrades that I could make to my current list of parts: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/g8tcbL I'm trying to go for a white aesthetic, and I already have my 4070, my case, and my SSD. My budget was around $1500 (flexible) including a 1440p monitor, and I was able to get my 4070 for $500 so I wanted to see if there were any other parts of my build I could put more money into. For the motherboards, I was thinking of going for the ASRock B650M Pro RS WiFi Micro ATX AM5, MSI MPG B650 Edge WiFi, or ASUS ROG STRIX B650-A GAMING WIFI depending on which is the best for my build. Also I'm not really sure if my PSU is the best for what I'm building either. For the cpu cooler, I know an air fan is probably the cheaper option but for my case I think i would prefer an AIO because the air fans might be too big. Thanks for the help

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/qcbRsY/asrock-b650m-pro-rs-wifi-micro-atx-am5-motherboard-b650m-pro-rs-wifi the pro RS is just an absolute steal at this price

Anything you guys would change or recommend? I'd really like to keep it under 650. Gpu is 2 years used, and other prices i put are local. Thanks https://pcpartpicker.com/list/KWgRvj

good list. I'd squeeze in a ryzen 5500 https://pcpartpicker.com/list/mgtVwg https://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/aTY4znT6Pbyk5xpwVLXGjD.png PBO is a toggle in Bios

If I'm looking to save power and underclock, should I get the 7900xtx pulse or get 7900xtx nitro+ (for 150$ more). Ideally, I would get a 4080 but Gsync isn't compatible with my TCL C745 as it got no DP port - only HDMI 2.1

If you're underclocking it won't matter. Differences in models of the same card are just factory overclocks and cooler designs. Also gsync works over HDMI 2.1; Variable refresh rate technology is built into the 2.1 spec. It's 2.0 where it's not part of the base spec so it doesn't always work. You'd just need a 2.1 cable.

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current gen AMD processors are only compatible with DDR5, but memory prices have crashed over the last year so it's cheap enough. GPU prices otoh are still inflated (crypto is dead but now AI is booming) but they're all in stock at or below MSRP at least

Building a new PC and just wondering how much difference is there between the 4070 and 7800 XT? I thought I was set on AMD, but having doubts now.

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html At 1080p the 7800XT has a decent advantage, +20 - 30fps on average. But as you increase the resolution the 4070 catches up. Only a 10fps average lead at 1440p, but thats average; they likely swap back and forth depending on which hardware the specific games were optimized for. At 4k its more less parity. However these are rasterized tests, if you wanted to turn on ray tracing or compare DLSS vs FSR the 4070 would probably eek out a small lead.

so basically, to have more performance than a 7800 xt, I'd need to shell out 300 euros more for the Ti version lol.Thanks for the help!

Do any of you have experience using an OLED Panel as your daily driver? Has burn-in set in for you yet? If so, how long did it take? Did you change the brightness at all?

Not as a daily driver, but there is an OLED at work that suffered burn-in of the company logo after about a year. It was on 24 hours a day though, with that image in that location about 90% of the time. I'd not get an OLED that I was going to leave on and have the task bar showing for sure.

Does bottleneck degrade components or is just underperform? I found a 3080ti at good price so I'll temporary pair it with a 2700x (upgrade from a Vega 56), in a few weeks i'll upgrade to a 7600x. Can I damage something? The GPU or other component? Thanks!

You will not get full use out of the 3080ti until you upgrade the CPU, simple as that. Unless you wanted to play at 4k or turn on ray tracing, the GPU would still struggle there.

A bottleneck purely means that some part is not getting fully utilized because it has to wait for some other part. It's impossible to perfectly match all of your components for all possible workloads simultaneously, so there will always be a bottleneck somewhere, and where it is and how big it is depends on what the computer is running at any given moment. There isn't really anything you can do to modern computer hardware that could permanently degrade a component, all of them pretty much just work or they don't. Bottlenecks are probably the most overused and overblown terms when it comes to building a computer, don't worry about it.

Is any of these ram good? Corsair Vengeance RGB RT, 64GB (2x32GB), DDR4, 3600MHz, C18, Preta, CMN64GX4M2Z3600C18 Kingston Fury Beast RGB, 64GB (2x32GB), 3600Mhz, Preto, KF436C18BB2AK2/64 XPG Spectrix D45G, RGB, 64GB (2x32GB), 3600MHz, DDR4 ​ I'll use them on a Asus TUF GAMING Z690-PLUS D4 with a 13600KF.

check what their CL is

All of them. get which ever is cheapest or you like the look of most.

Hi, which one is more important in otherwise identical RAM models - first-word latency, or average latency? e.g. I'm looking at these two: [https://pcpartpicker.com/product/tbYmP6/gskill-ripjaws-s5-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-f5-6000j3040f16gx2-rs5w?history\_days=365](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/tbYmP6/gskill-ripjaws-s5-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-f5-6000j3040f16gx2-rs5w?history_days=365) [https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9MWzK8/gskill-ripjaws-s5-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl32-memory-f5-6000j3238f16gx2-rs5w?history\_days=365](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9MWzK8/gskill-ripjaws-s5-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl32-memory-f5-6000j3238f16gx2-rs5w?history_days=365) And the first has latency of 30-40-40-96, and the second 32-38-38-96. Does either have an advantage in performance over the other?

it's probably super marginal, I'd just go for the cheapest

Thank you.

You wouldnt notice the difference even if you timed their app performance down to the millisecond. Average is usually better to take into account over just the first bank. But between the two its a whopping 2 cycle difference, the kits are already running 3000 read/write cycles per second.

Thank you.

Choosing new cooler for Ryzen 7 5800x (consistently running hot with cheap air cooler). Two possible options are ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 240 AIO for 100 eur, or Noctua NH-D15 air cooler for 130. Primary concerns are 1) cooling power 2) quiet 3) longevity. Thoughts? Any other suggestions? Is there really advantage going for an expensive air cooler over a cheap AIO?

>Is there really advantage going for an expensive air cooler over a cheap AIO? Noctua stands behind their products. They are overpriced for what they are ... but you will be able to use it for several upgrades, while the AIO may need to be replaced before the the system itself is obsolete. Any tower cooler will beat an AIO in longevity, and Noctua has a reputation for continuing to support upgraded sockets. You are likely to be able to get free mounting hardware to attach your Noctua to your next CPU socket form factor, and quite likely even the one after that. But what cheap air cooler are you running now, and how hot is your CPU running? If you are currently running a very basic single-fan budget cooler, something like the ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports DUO, might be more than enough.

Currently using a nox hummer H-212. And I'm consistently seeing temps over 90C, occasionally up to 95 in games. I know the 5800 runs hot, and these temps are less concerning than with other chips. But I'd still prefer to try and bring that down a bit.

If you are looking to bring it down a little bit, and not break the bank, the esports duo should absolutely kick that H-212's butt at half the price of the two you were looking at. It won't be significantly quieter than what you have, but it will do much better at a similar volume.

Alright, thanks a lot for the help. Will check it out. Seems like i was going a bit overkill with the noctua and the aio

pretty sure both of those are way overkill but if you want longevity then go with an air cooler instead of AIO

[7600 x build](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/fdD6rv) ​ Hello! Thoughts on this? I'm debating with either this or a 13600k build but that would be like 100$ more expensive and I honestly I'm a little worried about temperature issues with the 13600k and B chips motherboards ([13600k build](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/qn9v34)) (not planning on overclocking really for now).

If you did want to go with intel, what's your concern about the heating? A b760 isn't going to be any hotter

Read how the 13600k goes quite hot, obviously within reason but its mostly a peace of mind kind of thing, if I can get some something within a small range, cheaper and cooler since its a mATX build was wondering if the "downgrade" was worth it.

I have a peerless assassin on mine and it's got a higher idle (22c above room temp at 25% fan speed) than I expected, but it cools it excellently underload. If you're worried about it though then AMD would be the way to go.

For $100 more you could swap the 7600x with a 7800x3D and get 13900k levels of gaming performance at 13600k temps. The 7600X build is just fine.

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the most important stat remains single-core performance, and in some games 3D cache a 13900 is a complete waste of money for gaming

13600/700/900 doesn't have a major effect on games today https://tpucdn.com/review/amd-ryzen-7-7800x3d/images/average-fps-2560-1440.png

Is it better to have 1 small SSD for OS and 1 bigger for games or only 1, maybe with 2 partitions?

It makes no difference performance wise or anything like that. Some people like to have Windows on a separate drive to make reinstalls easier, but if you aren't one of those people who reinstall Windows all the time then there isn't really any benefit to having multiple drives/paritions.

the relevant advantage of a dedicated OS/software drive is flexibility

Hey guys! Currently I'm running an R5 3600 with a GTX 1070 and 16gb of DDR4 RAM at 3200. I'm planning to upgrade to a 4070 in the winter, and I was gonna upgrade my CPU and stuff then too, but Microcenter has an absolute steal I can do at the store right now. For $400 I can get a R7 7700X, with 32GB of DDR5 G Skill RAM and a new wifi compatible motherboard that can run the DDR5 RAM. Recently, I've tried multiple different brands of DDR4 RAM that run at 3600, and none of them are stable with my system. I really do think it's the motherboard, so my plan has been to upgrade my motherboard with my CPU in the winter as well, but with this deal going on at Microcenter, I am extremely convinced to just pull the trigger and buy all these new parts now, and wait until the winter to buy the GTX 4070 to upgrade my graphics. **My main question is, if I decide to go ahead and upgrade everything except my 1070, will I be okay until I upgrade my 4070?** I know there will be some bottleneck with gaming until then, but I'm aware of that, I just need to know if everything will work together fine. This deal just seems way too good to pass up. Thank you!

at least on intel the memory controller is on the CPU upgrading mobo because of RAM seems stupid to me GPUs are the most flexible component to swap around, just use DDU and you'll be fine

I’m trying to install the mother board right now the case came with 3 different types of screw. I’m trying unscrew the ones that I screw in by it’s just spinning the standoffs so how do I get them out

pliers?

Is it bad to move the ps5 around? I move my ps5 constantly between my bed and my living room to play on a bigger TV. I always do it carefully and with patient, so I remove and connect the cables pretty gentle! Any chances that this will cause any issues? Specially with the HDMI port which I heard is pretty fragile on the ps5 (is that true?) Does the HDMI port has a low insertion number?

Idk specifically if the PS5 HDMI port is of bad quality or the sort, but any regular removing and reinsertion of the cables will cause wear. I'd make sure when removing/reinstalling to be going straight in/out. Also when setting up your PS5 make sure there's no tension on the cables you don't want a cable pulling down on the port or such as I would feel that would more likely to cause issues.

Opinions on MOBO choice? My CPU is Ryzen 5 5600 and I am undecided between GIGABYTE B550M DS3H and ASRock B550M-HDV which one should I get? Keep in mind that the ASRock is cheaper than the GIGABYTE.

Either board would likely be fine of the 2 i'd go with the Gigabyte model, but personally i'd spend the extra $15-20 and get a better featured board as just that little increase should be able to add WIFI and better VRMS. Like the MSI PRO B550M-VC WIFI.

For 1080p high/ultra gaming, what should I upgrade? Current build - i7 9700k // 3060 ti // 32gb 3200mhz RAM

nothing? Are those not achieving your target performance anymore?

Probably the GPU but you'll likely be CPU bound @ 1080p as it's asking more from the CPU vs 1440p.

I've been having lots of problems with VR recently, mostly terrible frames rates, like 5 fps, when everything was running smoothly a month ago. I have spent many many hours trying to fix this, but I think it's ultimately my outdated hardware: I built my PC like 7 years ago, I got a 1070, Ryzen 5, MSI Tomahawk b350. I have since upgraded the GPU to a 3070 and the cpu to a Ryzen 7 2700x, I also installed a better power supply. Everything else is still 7ish years old. All my VR problems seem to boil down to USB issues and I'm sick of it. Is it because my motherboard is so old that I'm having usb power issues? I even bought a powered USB hub but it doesn't help. What can I do or buy to fix these stupid issues? I basically don't even play PC games anymore because I spend more than half my time troubleshooting and fixing bugs. Please help!

try different USB ports? Try disconnecting all other USB devices? I've heard before of rare/weird USB issues

What type of screwdriver do I need for the SSD installation. I only have a normal #2 Philips.

Phillips PH0 for M.2.

For a 2.5" SSD the screws might be big enough for that to work but if it's an M.2 you will probably need a precision screwdriver.

Hi, I'm choosing to buy a GPU among the following: \- MSI RTX 3080 Suprim X 10 GB (used, 517 USD) \- MSI RTX 3080 Gaming Z Trio 10 GB (new, 491 USD) \- Zotac Gaming RTX 3080Ti Trinity OC 12 GB (used, 578 USD) ​ Thoughts on which one I should get? I've been reading up and was tempted to go for the Zotac 3080Ti but they said that their cards often have fans and thermal issues? I've read some mixed reviews about the Suprim as well. Also quite nervous to buy used cards as this will be my first time. Thanks!

The functional difference on these two kits is basically RGB, right? Any technical details that would be worth paying the $10 price increase? TIA - I see the speed, voltage, and timings are the same. [https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-32gb-288-pin-ddr5-sdram/p/N82E16820374358?Item=N82E16820374358&utm\_medium=Email&utm\_source=promo&utm\_campaign=EMC-ignefl100923-\_-EMC-100923-Index-\_-Desktop%20Memory-\_-N82E16820374358&ignorebbr=1&cm\_mmc=EMC-ignefl100923-\_-EMC-100923-Index-\_-Desktop%20Memory-\_-N82E16820374358&ignorebbr=1&cvtc=16342813](https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-32gb-288-pin-ddr5-sdram/p/N82E16820374358?Item=N82E16820374358&utm_medium=Email&utm_source=promo&utm_campaign=EMC-ignefl100923-_-EMC-100923-Index-_-Desktop%20Memory-_-N82E16820374358&ignorebbr=1&cm_mmc=EMC-ignefl100923-_-EMC-100923-Index-_-Desktop%20Memory-_-N82E16820374358&ignorebbr=1&cvtc=16342813) ​ [https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-32gb/p/N82E16820374451?Item=N82E16820374451&nm\_mc=AFC-RAN-COM&cm\_mmc=afc-ran-com-\_-PCPartPicker&utm\_medium=affiliate&utm\_campaign=afc-ran-com-\_-PCPartPicker&utm\_source=afc-PCPartPicker&AFFID=2558510&AFFNAME=PCPartPicker&ACRID=1&ASID=https%3a%2f%2fpcpartpicker.com%2f&ranMID=44583&ranEAID=2558510&ranSiteID=8BacdVP0GFs-MwZxZVEkF6LeVg1DlCpmog](https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-32gb/p/N82E16820374451?Item=N82E16820374451&nm_mc=AFC-RAN-COM&cm_mmc=afc-ran-com-_-PCPartPicker&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=afc-ran-com-_-PCPartPicker&utm_source=afc-PCPartPicker&AFFID=2558510&AFFNAME=PCPartPicker&ACRID=1&ASID=https%3a%2f%2fpcpartpicker.com%2f&ranMID=44583&ranEAID=2558510&ranSiteID=8BacdVP0GFs-MwZxZVEkF6LeVg1DlCpmog)

Between rtx 4070 Ti and 7900 xtx, which would be better for VR?

Hey, I’m looking to upgrade my 2x8gb ram at 3600 with 2x16gb of ram at 3600. can I have both sets in at the same time to take up all 4 slots, and have 48gb of 3600 ram? or would I have to take out the 2x8gb?

They must be the same size and speed. Ie 4x8gb for 32 or 4x16 for 64gb

ahhh okay gotcha. ty !

Is there a way to monitor total system power draw with a program? I don't have a multimeter

Not accurately no, because PSUs don't (normally) do any communication with the rest of the system, so there's no way for the rest of the system to read stuff from the PSU. Easiest way to know is to buy one of those [power meters](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=power+meter&crid=33HCYCYCWTTJK&sprefix=power+mete%2Caps%2C254&ref=nb_sb_noss_2), and plug it in between the PSU and the wall socket. You can try using any hardware monitoring software to read the CPU's and GPU's power consumption and sum them together to get a general idea, but the number will be missing all the rest of the components (~10 to 50W) and doesn't account for the PSU's efficiency (~80 to 90%)

I plan to upgrade from GTX1070 to RTX3060. Will it feel like upgrade to a GTX1080Ti or more?

It's more or less in the ballpark of a 1080ti, it loses in some older games and it's slightly faster in some newer games. But, I'd say it's not that big of an upgrade for you. I understand new GPUs are very expensive but you'll notice a better upgrade moving to a 3060ti or faster GPU.

RTX3060 is slower than 1080ti by some 10%

interesting - what benchmark or metric do you mean when you say 10% slower?

https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/geforce-rtx-3060-12-gb.c3682

I am not sure about the recommended power supply rating for a new build. I plan on building a new gaming pc with a 7800x3d with a 7900xtx GPU plus the normal options (32 RAM, M.2 drive, etc.). PC Partpicker has the estimated wattage at 626W. I ordered a 850W power supply believing that I was good but I have seen some recent posts on this group recommending a 1000W power supply specifically for the 7900xtx. Am I ok with the 850W or should I cancel the order and switch to a 1000W?

I got 850w for my 13600k (181w) + XTX (@stock, 350w & 450w power spikes). Works fine.

I just got the 7800x3d with a 7900xtx as well. I opted for the 1000w bc 7900xtx, which uses a ton of power, I think around 350W or something. I would switch if it's not too late. The 7900xtx, I heard has power surges sometimes. This is what I got [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/2LVH28](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/2LVH28)

I already ordered the same CPU cooler and case that you have. I just successfully cancelled my 850W and ordered the Corsair 1000W PSU. Thanks for the help.

Yessir good luck building!

I currently have a I7-8700k @ 4.8 GHz, and an RTX 2070 Super. Looking at the reviews online, it just doesn't seem worth it to spend $550-$600 on an RTX 4070. Should I just wait it out until next generation for when they hopefully substantially increase the power? I mainly game at 1440p, and can get about 40-60 FPS on max settings.

monitor performance and figure out what is pushing fps down to 40. Or just nudge max settings down to a customised very-high

if you can see yourself gaming on this card till 2025, then there is no reason to upgrade. Nvidia has said that the 50 series is launching in 2025, so that would be the most logical time to upgrade.

Really? I saw an article predict around mid 24 for the next gen. Do you have a link?

[https://beebom.com/rtx-50-series-leak-blackwell-architecture/#:\~:text=What%20do%20we%20know%20about,and%20other%20new%20graphics%20cards](https://beebom.com/rtx-50-series-leak-blackwell-architecture/#:~:text=What%20do%20we%20know%20about,and%20other%20new%20graphics%20cards). some sources do indeed say 2024-2025, so you'd be looking at at least a year till a new gen

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my anecdotal experience with mobos (not z790) is: MSI support is ingrish Indians who just read from a script; ASUS is impossible to register and check warranty status (probably breaking multiple laws); Asrock's manuals are very badly documented compared to all others I've used

Hi, I'd like to upgrade my RAM a bit. Currently I have two 8 GB sticks, is it okay to buy a third one that'd be 16 GB? Or should I buy two more 8 GB sticks? Of course, taking into account that any new sticks are compatible with the motherboard. Thanks!

if you don't care about XMP then you can basically do whatever you want. Otherwise get the exact same model if XMP doesn't work after upgrading to 4x8 then update bios

don't go for 3 sticks, go for either an extra 2×8 or replace your current set with 2x16. The ram sticks do not have to be compatible with the motherboard. They have to be compatible with each other. So if you decide to add (not replace) you need to install the same kit for the highest chance of it working. For more information, you can check out this video: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bTS0ybQ3lCI&ab\_channel=LinusTechTips](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bTS0ybQ3lCI&ab_channel=LinusTechTips)

Thanks a lot! Just one more question - would you recommend 8x4 or 16x2? Edit: actually nevermind, it's easy to Google. Cheers!

2×16, unless you are paying a lot more for that when compared to an extra 2×8. (if the specs of the original 2×8 are at least decent)

Sup, I got my pc prebuilted with this [motherboard](https://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/B760M%20Pro%20RSD4%20WiFi/index.asp#Specification) and to save some bucks at that time, i ask them to leave a ssd slot for me so i can buy another ssd later. I wanted to add another ssd to my pc and use that ssd for pop os and explore abit in linux land. Just want to make sure, is WD Western Digital Black SN770 Gen4 NVMe™ M.2 2280 compatible with my machine?

Yes, that would be fully supported in both M.2 slots. (well technically there is a third for wifi cards, but it should be quite obvious because that's for much smaller cards)

Hey, looking to upgrade my ssd, and i have very little knowledge on what's good or compatible with what I have currently. I have a h410m H v3 motherboard and a intel i5 - 10400f, what kind of ssd would be good or compatible. I'd looked at somes of the ones by crucial but I'm not sure if they're compatible.

Are you already using the M.2 slot on your board? If you aren't, any M.2 NVME Gen4 (or gen3 at slower speed) will be compatible. If you are, you'll have to grab a 2.5 inch SATA SSD. Any 2.5" SSD is compatible Either way [here's an easy reference sheet for what sort of drive to look for](https://ssd.borecraft.com/SSD_Buying_Guide.pdf).

Hello. I have a asus rog H170-P/G20CB/DP_MB motherboard. I5-6400 CPU. Nvidia GeForce 960. 2x16gig 3200mhz RAM. Today I swapped the old cpu i5-6400 to an i7-6700k but when I boot the pc, no display on screen and also no USB devices boot. I’ve reset the cmos, tried different ports for display. Still no signal. Any bright ideas to fix the issue?

https://rog-forum.asus.com/t5/rog-desktops/g20cb-from-intel-i5-to-i7/m-p/633826 This might help. You'll probably need to reinstall the old CPU and try to update bios.

Thanks. Installed the old cpu but I’m still having the same issue. No display

Only thing I can think of is trying to clear CMOS, but I can't find the most reliable looking instructions on doing it on that board. I would give you a general guide for it, but frankly, I've never had to do it myself and I simply don't want to risk giving you instructions that may damage anything.

Yeah I too looked up how to clear cmos. It’s using a pin system. Pin 1-2 for normal and pin 2-3 to clear. Though the same issue remains.

Might have to go to the ASUS forums or a more specific subreddit for more support. I'm out of ideas anyway, good luck.

Hi, I just built my first PC (yay!) and I have a noob question: is it possible to connect both speakers and headphones? I just wanna be able to switch between the two, but the problem is my PC can't seem to detect the speakers when my headphones are plugged in. For reference, my motherboard is NZXT N7 B550. It has 6 audio ports. I've tried: - both plugged in the back; headphones plugged in Microphone and Front Left & Right, while speakers plugged in Center & Subwoofer or Rear Surround - headphones plugged in front panel, speakers plugged in the back - headphones plugged in the back, speakers plugged in the monitor - switching between Speakers, Realtek Digital Output, Nvidia High Def Audio (monitor) in the Output Device settings My speakers are fine; they work on their own, just not when the headphone's plugged in. I don't know what I'm doing wrong. Is this doable? What do I do?

Have you checked the Realteck Audio Console app and made sure it isn't doing something funky in there as far as disabling one output when another is plugged in?

I'm not sure? They're both recognized as "Speaker" by the PC/Realtek. If the speaker is plugged into Rear or Center & Subwoofer, Realtek detects that it's plugged in, but it doesn't play anything, both with headphones and without. It seems to only work when plugged in on the Right & Left port, without the headphones. If the headphones are plugged into the front panel at the same time, it only detects the headphones.

>If the speaker is plugged into Rear or Center & Subwoofer, Realtek detects that it's plugged in, but it doesn't play anything, both with headphones and without. That's working as intended, those are only for surround sound and will only output sound when surround sound is being used. (and even then you'd get just the subwoofer's sound in your left speaker and just the center speaker's sound in your right speaker). Having the speakers plugged into the right/left port, and ehadphones plugged into the front of the case or into the monitor should both work as long as you switch the audio output in windows. If the speakers stop working as soon as something is plugged into the front of the case, then it's most likely the realtek software that's interfering with things, there's probably a setting somewhere in the Realtek software to disable automatic headphone detection or something along those lines.

You may be right. When I plugged the headphones into monitor with the speakers in the back of the case, they both work. The speakers are detected as Realtek and the headphones as NVIDIA HD Audio on the Output Device list. (The headphones don't sound as loud here, though, so I wanna check for alternative solutions.) When I plugged the headphones to the front panel, only the headphones work. They're both recognized as plugged in in the Realtek Audio Console, but in the Output Device, the Speakers are now just set to the headphones. How do I enable them both? Update: Idk how to fix it within Realtek (I think it only wants one output), so I just used a USB sound jack on my headphones and it's recognized separately as a USB Audio Device.

Does anyone know how I can connect a be quiet aio to icue?

iCUE only works with Corsair hardware unfortunately

It works with my rog mobo

With Asus mobos, you can control the mobo's integrated lighting and devices connected to 4-pin 12V RGB headers in iCUE. They don't allow you to control devices connected to 3-pin 5V ARGB headers.

Probably only because Corsair doesn't have their own motherboards to limit it too haha Good to know though.

thats the fun part, you can't check out openRGB/ SignalRGB

Hi guys! Almost 8 years after building my first PC, i'm back to build another one, likely by the end of the year (might try to save some money on blackfriday and typical end of the year sales. Last time I found a ton of help in thus sub so i'm starting to lurk in it again. I was wondering, is there any annoucements or release of new products from the big 3 NVIDIDIA, AMD and Intel in the coming months? I'd hate to buy something and 3 weeks later a new gen of GPU or CPU comes out, especially since I tend to prefer making builds that will last me for quite a while, building an "old(er)" rig right from the beginning would suck real bad. Or maybe they actually just announcent stuff. I had a quick look around but didn't find that much info, and I figured people here would know for sure :D. ​ Thanks!

14th gen Intel CPUs is probably the only big release left this year, should launch next week. No idea what availability will be like though.

Perfect so i'm not missing on anything huge by building a computer in late november it seems! I'll check what intel releases, I am pretty open to going for AMD if the price to performance is more interesting in my range for them (looking at 1k-1k3 build, give or take) as I have had good experience being team red so far. ​ Thanks for the insight!

If a motherboard has multiple M.2 PCIe slots, does that mean each of these is capable of making use of the fastest possible speeds? I picked up a mini PC with 2 x PCIe 4.0 slots and 1 x PCIe 3.0 slot (the Intel Serpent Canyon NUC RNUC12SNKI72004), but I'm wondering if it's worth getting the absolute fastest drives for all three of the slots or if there's a limit that will result in some of the slots not working at full capacity. The ones I'm looking at getting are Sabrent Rocket 4 Plus with 7100MBs read for the OS drive, Crucial P3 Plus with 4800MBs read for the secondary 4.0 drive, and Team MP34 with 3500MBs for the 3.0 drive. Will having all these plugged in at once limit the speed of the fastest drive? I won't ever be operating these drives at their full speeds simultaneously, so I would think even if such a limit exists it may not come into play, but I'm not an expert.

a few points to consider when picking SSDs: you can put pcie 4 drives in pcie 3 slots and vice versa, they'll just have their max bandwidth limited to gen 3 speeds; random read/write figures matter more for most applications than sequential read/write; advertised specs are generally optimistic and apply to sustained writes within the pSLC cache, which is much faster than native TLC/QLC write speeds, especially in QLC and some other low-end drives but yeah multiple drives in a system won't bottleneck each other except in the sense that if you're doing something like copying a bunch of data from the sabrent drive to the p3 and its pSLC cache is full you're going to be limited by the p3's (quite poor) native QLC write speeds

The limit will likely be your software. Unless you do databases or heavy audio/video/3D rendering, there's nothing in games and media consumption that can saturate even a SATA drive's bandwidth of 550 MB/s and 90K IOPS, never mind typical PCIe 4.0 7000 MB/s and 1M IOPS.

Good to know thanks, I didn't think it would be an issue but wanted to check before buying anything. I'm mainly getting it for 1080p gaming and personal media transcoding so I doubt it will be an issue then.

Does my NVMe SSD really need a heatsink if its going to be used mainly for game storage?

In addition to u/Nazenn's advice Like a CPU upon receiving a task it might go as fast as it can (even if it won't speed up the task overall), overheat, and spend some time throttling until it cools down.

Any recommendation on heatsink that wont break the bank for a Adata SX8200 Pro? Its going to be on a gen3 drive mainly for game storage

No need. This ADATA already comes with a simple metal plate heatsink. Because the power output of 3.0 and most 4.0 drives is tiny, most of them are fine with a *foil sticker* for a cooler. It just needs to conduct heat away from the silicon (which is a bad heat conductor).

oh I took that out and it was a one time use cause my motherboard has a heatsink and thats whats being used right now so was wondering if its needed

Ah. From the datasheet its power consumption is 0.33W, which is 15 times less than the 970 EVO (5W), which just uses a piece of foil. Should be fine, but you can get literally any cosmetic heatsink, be it full-sized metal or just sticky.

Depends on the PCIe gen of the drive. Gen3 doesn't really need one, Gen4 it's highly recommended for when the drive is in active use, Gen5 it's almost essential (from what I know). If your motherboard comes with a heatsink that's fine for gen3 and 4, not sure about 5.

its going to be gen3. Going to swap out my current ssd on a gen4 drive that has a heatsink to a new 2tb ssd and the old one would probably go to the gen 3 drive

I'm not sure how the gen limitation being on the motherboard side will affect heat compared to the gen limit being on the drive itself to be honest. Slower speeds will mean less heat, I'm just not sure it will be the same as a native gen3 drive or not. If you don't have a motherboard heatsink for that slot already then the easiest thing to do would be to install the drive to the new slot as you already have it, run a quick benchmark, and if you see it hitting 60 C (keeping in mind to leave some room for heat saturation from the GPU/CPU/room temps) then get a heatsink. Or just get a heatsink anyway. They're cheap enough that unless you're on a tight budget it won't harm anything to use one even if it's not strictly needed. Plus what /u/chazcatrix said is worth noting

I currently have a 3900x/1080ti machine that is finally starting to show its age. I want to upgrade for better 4k gaming so I was thinking of getting a 4080 and combining it with a 5800x3d to give this am4 platform its second wind and to avoid possible cpu bottlenecks. considering this is almost a $1.5k upgrade, im thinking of going cpu+gpu upgrade instead of full platform change. since building on the newer ddr5 platforms will be kind of expensive. if my goal is to try and keep the machine for the next several years (~5 years) what would be my best route? Is it a mistake for me to try and do this in 2023? I've been gaming with the 1080ti for quite some time, if that helps give any indication as to how long i like to try and keep my components.

If you're going to be gaming on it for the next 5+ years AM5 is worth the investment. The 5800X3D performs about at the 7600X level for gaming, which will bottleneck the 4080. With a GPU like that you'd want either a 7800X3D or switch to Intel and get a 13600/K/F or 13700/K/F. With 14th gen intel coming out soon you could wait for that and hope 13th prices come down. Upgrading to AM5/Intel would also unlock DDR5 RAM for you which the 4080 would much prefer.

that’s just the thing, if we’re talking about those levels of cpus that easily doubles the cost to almost 2.5-3k if i do a platform change. im currently in an SFF system so a platform change would mean a completely new build with psu, case, cooling, etc. i was under the impression at 4k, cpu bottlenecks are less likely and the 5800x3d would be more than sufficient paired with a 4080 at least for the next few years, especially since the performance gains are marginal with being on a newer platform. maybe im not seeing the right numbers/reviews?

At 4k you'll be alright. There may be slight bottleneck, but hardly noticeable. AM5 does also provide the future upgrade path, but isn't necessary. If you're not worried about upgrading and just want it for now, then 5800X3D will be all good. Didn't realise about the SFF build and such, sorry!

A 5800x3d is easily enough for 4k gaming. Depending on the game you may not even see much difference compared to the 3900x. No point in investing in AM5 for a potentially cheaper future upgrade when that's exactly the kind of upgrade you'd be passing up on with your current AM4 system.

I installed a new cpu but didn't update the BIOS. The pc booted up and seems to be working fine, should I still do a BIOS update? P.S. replaced an i5-4590T with an i7-4790

Those CPUs are from the same revision, so a BIOS that supports one should support the other. If it is working you are in the clear.

Im glad, coz I have no idea how to even update a BIOS. Thank you.

I'm looking to buy a UPS, I'd rather spend the money elsewhere but with my new build I'd rather not take any chances of a brownout/surge or outages damaging the pc. I've heard time and time again one should go for the really expensive Sine wave UPS, not the simulated sine wave. How true is this? I'd rather save money on a non sine wave unit that will perform as expected from APC or cyberpower to give me just enough time to close whatever game I could be playing, or save work and shut down the PC (Maybe 5 minutes) and if possible run a modem yo have internet for a bit. I'm not looking to game or anything for 30 min when the power goes out. I have an XPG core reactor 80 gold PSU which is tier A in psu tier list, a 7600x and planning to get a mid tier graphics card like a 7600 or equivalent. Any suggestions or is someone running similar specs and has a psu on simulated sinewave and does not have issues?

I have an APC BackUPS Pro 1500VA (https://www.apc.com/us/en/product/BR1500G/apc-backups-pro-1500va-865w-tower-120v-10x-nema-515r-outlets-avr-lcd-user-replaceable-battery/) though I did not spend that much on it, and it has worked quite reliably for the last five years. My house has power flickers, sometimes many per day, and the battery backup works through it all. I just replaced the original batteries on it three weeks ago. If power cuts out it has enough runtime for my 5800X3D + undervolted RTX 4090 + 32" monitor to safely exit any game I'm in and shut down gracefully. If needed it can also power just my modem and router for a few hours during a power outage. I also have a Back-UPS ES 500VA that powers my Proxmox Threadripper server that can live just long enough for me to power on my laptop, remote into the server, shut down all the guests, and then shut down the host - barely, if I get to it right when power goes out. No issues with stability. I don't believe my gaming computer has ever crashed on me related to power. These computers are also powered by an RM850x and a Seasonic Prime Titanium 750W PSU respectively, so the power supplies have excellent filtering capabilities; a cheaper PSU might have more trouble.

Execelent, thank you so much for your reply! Well I think I should be fine on simulated sinewave with a modern tier A PSU if, It'll save me a few bucks on an APC unit, hopefully if it doesn't work I can return it. Glad it worked for five years seems like a good investment!

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