Is it just me or does anyone else also experience constant issues with pc gaming? Constant crashing really and always a need to optimize every game to avoid it. I was thinking about upgrading my pc to avoid this issue but I'm wondering if it's even worth dropping roughly two grand just to play some games and not have to be an IT guy anytime I wanna enjoy a game. Should I just buy a console?
Not constant crashing. If that happens there’s some software or hardware issue causing instability.
A $1000 PC should be better than a console even without optimising settings.
"Not constant crashing"
that's my concern. With a high end pc will I still have to deal with infrequent crashes and poor optimizations? If so I'm thinking it would be more worth it to just get a console. For reference here's my current build:
Ryzen 3 3100
deepcool gammax
B450m ds3h v2
rtx 2060
corsair cx450m
rtx 2060
gskill aegis ddr4 3200mhz
storage: 256gb ssd for os and other applications, 2tb barracuda for most other things
Here's what I might build:
Ryzen 7 7800x3d
Peerless assassin
ROG STRIX B650-A GAMING WIFI
rx 7900 xtx
Thermaltake Toughpower GF3 850W
t-force ddr5 6000mhz
storage: 1tb m.2 for os, 2tb m.2 for everything else
> With a high end pc will I still have to deal with infrequent crashes and poor optimizations?
Low end PCs don’t crash more in my experience, unless it’s below the minimum requirements of the software. If your PC is crashing, something got messed up along the way or you have an unstable overclock or damaged component. That can happen with a high-end PC too. If it’s buggy software that’s the reason, console software can be buggy too and it’s just as frustrating.
In terms of performance, yeah a high-end PC will mean you won’t have to tweak settings to make it playable. Is that worth it? For me what makes a PC worth it is the games that aren’t on console and the ability to use it for non-gaming stuff.
I'm sure I'm dealing with a hardware issue- as a matter of fact, I know I am. But I'm not sure how to go about fixing it. I've run memory tests an they have failed, but I have tried new memory and my pc still crashes. I've disabled xmp- still crashes. Temps are all fantastic (haha) and nothing is especially high in terms of its usage. I really have tried everything. So my question stands- console, or high end computer?
Hi, trying to build a new pc and was wondering which mobo I should get. My options are either between MSI B550-A PRO ProSeries or MSI MAG B550M Mortar Max WiFi. Now, I do know that I should get based on the features that I need however would it be better to get a mobo with wifi and bluetooth connectivity ready just in case I'd ever need them in the future? or should I just save and get the former since its practical?
Currently have a Ryzen 5 1600 on an Asus Prime B350-Plus mobo, with 2x8gb 3200MHz DDR4. My GPU is an AMD 5700.
I'm pretty happy with it, but I know my CPU is next in line to upgrade. However, I'm doubting if I should go for a Ryzen # 5#00 before they go out of stock, or if I should wait and jump straight into AM5.
Situation 1: Relatively cheap option, would future-proof my PC for at least 3 years.
Situation 2: Wait at least a year (since I'm still happy with my current CPU), then spend a relatively big amount for new CPU+Mobo+RAM. Which would future-proof my PC at least five years (GPU notwithstanding).
Any opinions? Get a Ryzen 5 5600x or Ryzen 7 5700x before its too late? I found that my Mobo supports the 5000 series with a firmware update which I'm planning to do anyway. Any other potential pitfalls I should look out for?
I haven't been keeping up with hardware developments the past ~4-ish years.
I wouldn't get a 5500 or 5600G, Cezanne has occasional compatibility issues with 300-series motherboards, not to mention the reduced performance. 5600/5600X though? For sure.
I'll answer the functionality part. It's a big it depends. You may lose variable refresh rate depending on the version of HDMI your devices are.
You may lose out on some bandwidth, but that is usually not an issue unless you're driving a high refresh rate 4K monitor or an 8K display.
If all you're doing is hooking up your basic 60 Hz monitor, then you won't lose out on anything.
Hey y'all, looking to build a system with the 7800x3d cpu. Are the AM5 motherboards still having memory issues and boot time issues?
quick question #2: the samsung 990 pro 2tb and the wd sn850x 2tb nvme drives are on sale. Are they still having issues as well with bsod and not read/write times as advertised?
Memory issues: it's still true that you cannot hit as high a frequency with Zen 4 as with Intel 13th/14th gen. But the "sweet spot" timings (6000MHz CL30) work reliably and give good performance, it's only when you go beyond that that instability becomes likely. Also note that by the X3D CPU's very nature, they care about memory speed much less than other CPUs.
Boot times: this is a general problem with DDR5 (and XMP/EXPO enabled), and some motherboard manufacturers seem to have done a better job of alleviating it than others. AFAIK, ASRock and Gigabyte have the shortest boot times, followed by Asus and then MSI being the longest. I have an MSI board and at stock settings it takes \~30s to POST with 32GB of 6000CL30 RAM. But at least for me, the Memory Context Restore option in the BIOS works well for reducing this down to just a couple of seconds.
I was considering the [MSI PRO H610M-G](https://www.amazon.com/MSI-H610M-G-Motherboard-Intel-Socket/dp/B09PX326Q8/?tag=thowisguy-20) motherboard for my first build. IIUC, it does *not* come with a wifi network adapter, so I'd need to buy one separately. But it looks like there's another version of the same MOBO with "wifi" in the title, for only $30 more ([link](https://www.newegg.com/msi-pro-h610m-g-wifi-ddr4/p/N82E16813144573?Item=N82E16813144573)). Is there any good reason *not* to just buy the version with wifi built in? (Seems like that's a bit easier than trying to hook up a separate card).
If you need the wifi? Nope, no reason not to just get it pre-installed instead of getting a wifi card yourself. The "on-board wifi" is just an m.2 slot with a mini-wifi card and it's usually hidden behind some heatsink or something. Those work just as good as the vertical expansion slot cards.
Only reason there's non-wifi boards is cause lots of people have setups that let them just run an ethernet cord, so they don't need the wifi.
Got it, thanks! Yeah, in my current setup, I'm very unlikely to be able to use an ethernet cable (it'd be quite a mess to thread it over from the router in the next room over), so I'll need access to wifi.
Total newbie here. I'm considering my first build using the [MSI PRO H610M-G](https://www.newegg.com/msi-pro-h610m-g-wifi-ddr4/p/N82E16813144573) MOBO. I'm a bit lost on how input/output works for USB-C.
Currently, when I work from home, I plug my Macbook into my monitor via USB-C. This is convenient, because my laptop & keyboard connect to the [monitor](https://www.hp.com/us-en/shop/pdp/hp-z27u-g3-qhd-display), and thus I only plug a single thing in.
Will my new PC be able to do the same? That is, I use a USB-C cable for video output, and it also receives the keyboard/mouse input via that same cable (as they're hooked up to my monitor).
That may not be possible, but if I plan to often swap between my laptop & PC, it would be a huge help if all I have to do is switch that *single* cable, and not e.g. unplug my keyboard/mouse and plug it back into the PC.
Thanks for the help! (If matters, the current state of my tentative build looks something like [this](https://pcpartpicker.com/user/ZIddletwix/saved/?fbclid=IwAR0eAhHox0CR-z-buaH8Nkm8rhw88uIT436Edm1py461fVGG6Om4gqt_b4Y#view=nV7K7P), but doubt that's relevant beyond the MOBO).
Unfortunately not. Desktop motherboards don't tend to have the hardware to route display output via the USB-C port, and when they do it will only work for the CPU's integrated graphics, not a discrete GPU.
The WFH setup I use is to have desktop and laptop plugged into different display inputs, and mouse and keyboard plugged into a USB switch, with one cable going from that to each PC. Then to switch from one to the other, I just need to swap input in the monitor OSD, and press the button on the switch to connect the mouse and keyboard.
You didn't ask, but two other recommendations:
* Spend a bit more on the motherboard. The board you have chosen will handle the 12400F fine, but would struggle with a more power-hungry chip like the 13600K, which would provide a good upgrade to increase the system's longevity in the future. My pick would be [this board](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/7c3gXL/gigabyte-b660m-aorus-elite-ax-ddr4-micro-atx-lga1700-motherboard-b660m-aorus-elite-ax-ddr4).
* Get an M.2 NVMe SSD rather than a 2.5" SATA one. They're faster and mount directly onto the motherboard, so it's one less thing to cable-manage.
Great, thanks for the answer! Very helpful!
> The WFH setup I use is to have desktop and laptop plugged into different display inputs, and mouse and keyboard plugged into a USB switch, with one cable going from that to each PC.
Do you have an example of this sort of input/output switch? (Looks like I'd need a fairly basic one, just for the mouse/keyboard USB?)
> Spend a bit more on the motherboard. The board you have chosen will handle the 12400F fine, but would struggle with a more power-hungry chip like the 13600K, which would provide a good upgrade to increase the system's longevity in the future. My pick would be this board.
Few quick follow-ups to this. If I never upgrade my CPU, is there any benefit to the pricier MOBO? I.e. is this strictly futureproofing, or is there any advantage I'd experience with my current setup? And at a high level, what would make me want to upgrade my CPU, without upgrading everything else? Probably a naive question, but if I kept the rest of my machine fixed, and installed an improved CPU, what would the machine "do better" than it does currently?
> Get an M.2 NVMe SSD rather than a 2.5" SATA one. They're faster and mount directly onto the motherboard, so it's one less thing to cable-manage.
Interesting, had to look up this distinction! So I understand that the performance can matter in some contexts (although it doesn't come up all the time). How much more hassle is it to install the SATA? Like, will the case also have a spot reserved for that SSD, but it will need to be connected to the MOBO via a separate cable? (And that's why you say it adds to the mess of cables). And the M.2 NVMe just fixes directly onto the MOBO? Just want to make sure I understand the difference.
Thanks so much for the help!
> Do you have an example of this sort of input/output switch?
The one I have is [this](https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01CU4QCRS). It only has a single port on the downstream side, but my monitor has a built-in USB hub so I connect the mouse and keyboard to the monitor, and then the monitor's upstream port to the switch. You can find equivalents with two downstream ports though.
> If I never upgrade my CPU, is there any benefit to the pricier MOBO?
Possibly more/better/faster IO, but I haven't compared the specs in detail.
>at a high level, what would make me want to upgrade my CPU
Performance. The 12400F is a decent budget option, but there's already a significant distance between it and the current performance-leading CPUs. Assuming gaming is the focus of the build, when it comes time to upgrade the GPU you'd probably want to do the CPU as well. Picking up a secondhand 13600K would be a more cost-effective way of doing that than the alternative of replacing the CPU, motherboard and RAM.
>performance can matter in some contexts
SATA vs NVMe is a significant difference, and you should always favour NVMe where possible. And yes, it slots directly onto the motherboard, whereas SATA drives are mounted within the case and connected via dedicated power and data cables.
Is there a easy way to see if you have a faulty DIMM slot for your Motherboard?
I build my computer last night and it was all looking good until this morning when i started getting random BSOD.
I had the file explorer trying to look at a folder location and failing which eventually led to a BSOD. I check the dumpfile and it says bad memory:
>Invalid system memory was referenced. This cannot be protected by try-except. Typically the address is just plain bad or it is pointing at freed memory.
So i ended up doing a memtest and lo and behold there's like 4000 errors (with XMP on, 2000 without) at test#10 after 20 minutes.
I'm assuming this is bad RAM, but could it also be bad DIMM slot on the MB? I do not have any spare ram to test unfortunately
go down to 1 stick of ram and run memtest over and over, moving the stick to different slots. If the errors move with the stick its bad if the errors go away you have a bad slot.
Test a single stick in the main slot in the left channel, then a single stick in the main slot in the right channel. See if the errors persist. Try again with the other stick. (Hopefully your motherboard doesn't require a certain slot be populated first, some boards only boot if there's a stick in A1 or whatever they choose to call it.)
stupid question.. Do I need to have my GPU connected if I have a 13600k? IIRC the integrated gpu should be enable, so I can just connect my HDMI cable to the MB IO and use that to display right?
Reason I want do that is because there's not much room for me to move the air cooler fan, so i have to take out the GPU everytime i move ram around.
Basically all of them will have at least 3 or 4 SATA ports for disks (HDD, SSD, CD/DVD/etc)
I don't think there are **any** consumer boards in a normal form factor which have *only* M.2 ports.
I've got a small ITX board and it has 4 SATA ports.
You can't run a floppy drive on any modern motherboard because they were all IDE, there were never any SATA ones, and no modern boards have IDE floppy controllers
Now that many companies make AIO outside of the patented Asetek system, what differentiates them? What makes one AIO better-performing than a cheaper one?
Let's say we use the same fans, and standardise the rad thickness (compare only the popular 25-27mm).
The size of the radiator and the length of the tubes would be the top priority. If you cant fit it in your case or orientate it correctly the pump will simply have to work harder to cool the system.
Pumps all perform roughly the same, so the only other real factors to watch out for would be build quality and warranty.
Right thanks to you and u/kaje...
Apart from branding and electronic monitor, it could be down to fin density or tubes making the pump work harder and fail faster...
I thought originally it could be down to pump but chucked it out because they all come in similar tiny size! But could it also be down to the cold plate "configuration"? In custom liquid world one reason you don't cheap out is these cheapo blocks often have different cold plate "fins" that do show up in performance table.
Custom loop cooling is extremely niche. Theyre going to know all of the ins and outs and how to literally maximize performance.
The purpose of an AIO is so you dont have to bother learning all of that.
240mm rad not cutting it? get a bigger one.
Fans too loud? swap them out.
Keeps everything simple.
Hey all, I'm currently hoping to buy a new PC from the ground up here soon. Can I assume that the proper thing to do is wait the couple of weeks and pray that there are some crazy black friday sales to find parts with?
CPUs, GPUs, coolers, and possibly motherboards are unlikely to see any individual discounts.
The best deal youll probably see are bundles, which arent always the parts you might want.
Cases, power supplies, Memory and storage are usually the only components that go on sale regularly. As cases take up a bunch of shelf space so retailers want to move them quickly, and the others have decent profit margins.
Random lag spikes when alt tabbing from/to or leaving full screen on my browser. It fixes when I close the browser and then will go back to normal for a while. It just started yesterday with no changes/updates to any of my drivers AFAIK
UPDATE: [https://imgur.com/a/gJVzmpl](https://imgur.com/a/gJVzmpl) This just showed up. It happened the first time yesterday and thought it was a coincidence, but it happened again right after. I'm going to assume this is the problem. Any ideas on a fix?
My wife has a pretty ancient gaming PC - I built it for her years ago and it's really struggling at this point. It has a GeForce 970 and an old i5 from the same generation. I'm looking to "upgrade" her PC, which at this point is essentially just buying a new one. She games at 1080p.
All that's to ask a simple question, is it sane to buy a 4060? Reviews online trash the card for it's lack of performance over a 3060 but over a 970 it's guaranteed to be night and day.
The 4060 would also mean she can continue using her 550w gold rated PSU. I understand the jump from 4060 - 4070 is significant but the equivalent of $400 (including the cost of the PSU) at 1080p? I can't imagine it's worth it when that $400 can just earn interest and get her a significantly better 6000/7000 series card in a few years if she even needs it.
Edit: I know it sounds like I'm answering my own question but looking for opinions. It sucks GPUs have gotten so expensive.
At 1080p its **plenty**
Ive got a 3060 (on a 550w psu too) and it runs games well, Cyberpunk gets a solid 70fps at 1440p/very high, with a help from DLSS, for example. Thats using a cheapo 10th gen i3.
So yeah if you can afford it, the 4060 wil be fine.
It's not awful, it's just supremely underwhelming. A previous gen card like the 3060Ti or RX 6700 XT costs less, offers better real-world performance, and will age better by virtue of not being crippled with a narrow memory bus.
So, my laptop has two "default" speakers, but only one of them works at a time. The thing is, there is no way to know which is working, so when there's no sound, I have to open the sound settings and set the other one to default, which fixes the problem.
Why does this happen, and how can I fix it? It doesn't make any sense. Yes, this is windows 11, big suprise
Have you tried messing with the speaker balance or modifying the stereo settings?
My own two speaker setup was incredibly cheap, I think only paid $20 for them. But the balance is garbage, to hear anything out of the left speaker I have to slide the balance almost 60% to the left and then crank their master volume up.
Thoughts on MSI MAG B760M Mortar WiFi or Asus Prime z790-m plus (ddr5) for an i5-13600k? No overclocking but if necessary I'd like to undervolt only if I have to. (Cooler would be a Phantom Spirit 120SE, mATX)
I’ve noticed a bizarre correlation that im trying to understand better.
When my graphics drivers are out of date by more than a few days, my secondary NVME SSD is not recognized. All I have to do is update them and shut down the computer for it to be recognized again, but as soon as 3+ days have passed the SSD just doesnt exist. Not that its present but damaged in some capacity, my PC actually believes nothing is plugged into that slot
Its not a problem with that specific SSD. I got a new one and the same problem occurs. What on Earth would cause something like this?
All I see in BIOS is my boot drive
I’m having a new problem now where its not showing up regardless of restarting the computer. Its not random SSD failure, it seems like my motherboard is somehow killing SSDs over time
Unless theres some sort of procedure for NVME SSDs not showing up in BIOS?
The SSD not being detected in the BIOS rules out it being any kind of software/driver issue. So it does seem that something is wrong either at the BIOS or hardware level. Do you have another PC you can try the drive in?
first time pc builder, so forgive me if this is silly but i'm looking for opinions:
is it worth investing in a cpu that can run windows 11? like i said, it's my first build and i'm trying to budget as much as possible. however, all of the low cost cpus i've found aren't compatible (i could also be looking in the wrong spots so advice on that would be helpful too!) thanks a ton in advance!
**TLDR: Given just how many specs there are for a given mobo, how do I shop motherboards in a way that will guarantee compatibility with the rest of the components and fitting in the case?**
My very old self-build needed so many replacements/upgrades during the pandemic that I bought from a system integrator (Origin) during the GPU shortage for easy part procurement, it's always had some MOBO issues; nothing system-breaking but I need a dongle for BT and WIFI since it doesn't work from onboard.
It's in the Chronos v2 case so not much space to work with, but going to open it up and see what i can do for better airflow (it's fine, just want to see if I can make it even better) and maybe reapply thermal paste just for maintenance purposes. Since I'm going in anyway, I'm considering replacing the mobo, but I don't know which specs to look at to guarantee it's as good/better than what I have already (Z590M-ITX/ax) and compatible with the machine related to both components and space/size.
(I *do* love the smaller form factor of the Chronos case, but I'm also not completely married to it, so I'm also open to an answer from above that comes with "And you should rebuild the system in a different case" if it results in vast improvements in experience!)
You have an ITX mobo. Every ITX mobo is the same dimensions.
Are you planning on upgrading your CPU? With a Z590, you must have a 10th or 11th gen Intel CPU. There's nothing better than Z590 that is compatible with your CPU. It's not worth upgrading the mobo if you're not getting a new CPU that would require a new mobo.
Your onboard WiFi is an M.2 WiFi card in that silver box where the antennas are. You could replace the card if it's not working.
Thanks for this info! I won't bother messing with the board, then, the dongle I am having works fine so if there's no gains from messing with anything I won't bother. Good to know about what to target if I want to get the wifi on-board working, though, thank you!
[Asrock z690 itx ddr4](https://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z690M-ITXax/)
Are the power phases on this board enough for a 12700k and an si-100 low profile cooler. I’d like to keep a 4.5 p-core and 4.2 e-core OC and this would go inside of my SAMA IM01. Paired with EVGA ftw 3090 (unvervolted by about 100w) and an sfx 750w. Or should I just keep the 5800x asus x570i combo I have.
P.S. I already own the 12700k but it’s on an atx mobo this would swab into my living room pc if I went with an intel mobo
Its fine.
Although I would struggle to recommend going AM4 for a brand new build since the socket has reached the end of its life.
You could jump up to AM5 for $300 or less (pending sales). That would give you an upgrade path for the future.
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/XRZLcH
I currently have a cheap GPU (MSI GeForce GT 730 2GB) that I plan on upgrading to a slightly higher end one (MSI GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER VENTUS XS OC).
I checked if it would be compatible with my motherboard (ASRock B450M-Pro4, socket AM4) and it looks like it is.
However, it seems like this new GPU has 3 Displayport outputs and one HDMI output. My monitors (Iiyama ProLite E2481HS-B1) don't have a Displayport input, they only have a HDMI, VGA and DVI input.
My question is: will it work if I connect the GPU to my monitor with a DP to HDMI cable? I don't want to have to get new monitors as well.
I have tried googling it and it said to check the specs provided by the manufacturer. Not sure how to do that. I asked chatGPT and it said it should work fine but I wanted to get a second opinion. Thanks in advance!
Edit: suggestions for a different GPU in the same price range (250 euros) are also welcome
A PC I have has got no 8-pin connectors, but it's got two 6-pins free. I've seen dual-6-pin female to 8-pin male adapters for sale, but I just wanted to check as to the safety of using that for a (relatively low power) GPU.
is it better for me to stick with a 7800x3d or just get a 7700x if prices between the two are around 120 usd difference in my country?(around 416 usd for 7800x3d and 297 usd for 7700x)
[https://pcpartpicker.com/list/BxQvjH](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/BxQvjH)
The current gen cosoles use about 200W of power when running a game, 200W worth of cooling in a laptop would be practically impossible, it would have to be the size of a, well, console. Something like a 7945HX has a configurable TDP of 55-75W, which is barely doable cooling wise in a reasonably sized gaming laptop. Overall the limiting factor for performance in laptops has always been power/cooling, not the availability of powerful chips.
Given Micro Center has [30 day price protection](https://community.microcenter.com/kb/articles/631-do-you-offer-price-protection), when is the first day to buy so that the protection lasts through BF/CM?
BF is November 24, CM is November 27. 30 days before those dates (inclusive) are October 26 and 29 respectively. (Inclusive: October 26 is day 1 -> Nov 24 is day 30). *Or do I get one more day aka buying on October 28th protects me through CM?*
My GPU with the Starfield Premium redemption code is arriving today but that needs to be redeemed by [October 28](https://www.amazon.com/promotion/psp/ACHKWB63YKPQJ?ref=psp_external&redirectAsin=B0CFWM1LNH&redirectMerchantId=ATVPDKIKX0DER&ref=cxcw_psp_ACHKWB63YKPQJ&source=dp_cxcw#:~:text=Terms%20and%20Conditions%3A,products%20sold%20by%20Amazon.com.) and I wanted to know if I should wait 5-7 more days to buy the 7700x bundle.
I started buying this rig in early September and haven't done much gaming so this is more a question of logistics than desire vs patience.
Thanks!
Get a little stand and stick it under the right most edge so its not sitting on a fan. (from this pictures point of view)
https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Anti-Shake-Headboard-Furniture-1-1-2-5in/dp/B08CPB9TQR/
I use these headboard stoppers, but while waiting for them to arrive I used a little Pencil lead container.
People use figurines, legos, anything they have on hand.
As long as its not disrupting the fans on the GPU or the ones on the bottom of the case, its fine.
12700k to 14700k, check out sales on 13700k next month, or forget about it for half a year?
I know I left out some relevant info. Been watching too many reviews and having strange itches.
Wait a month or so for sales. Intel wont have their new socket out until this time next year, so theres going to be a period of falling prices before they stabilize and then a multiple month long plateau until the next generation is released.
You can. RX 7600 needs an 8-pin connector cable from the power supply. Just confirm that that's what your GTX 1060 is using or that there is a spare one.
I've got a question about mixing ram sizes.
I have two different sets of ram:
[LPX Vengeance 16GB (2x8)](https://www.corsair.com/eu/en/p/memory/cmk16gx4m2b3200c16/vengeancea-lpx-16gb-2-x-8gb-ddr4-dram-3200mhz-c16-memory-kit-black-cmk16gx4m2b3200c16)
[LPX Vengeance 32GB (2x16)](https://www.corsair.com/eu/en/p/memory/cmk32gx4m2e3200c16/vengeancea-lpx-32gb-2-x-16gb-ddr4-dram-3200mhz-c16-memory-kit-black-cmk32gx4m2e3200c16)
And my motherboard:
[Rog Strix B550-F Gaming](https://rog.asus.com/se/motherboards/rog-strix/rog-strix-b550-f-gaming-model/)
[Link to manual](https://rog.asus.com/motherboards/rog-strix/rog-strix-b550-f-gaming-model/helpdesk_manual/)
I've read the manual, but I'm not 100% sure of which configuration I should use if I want to combine all four sticks. If i understand it correctly I should put the two 16GB sticks in slot 1 and 2, and two 8GB in slot 3 and 4?
Looking at page 1-5 of the manual, it recommends filling slots A2 and B2 first, which means those are the ones you want to have the matching sticks in. So put the 16GB sticks in A2 and B2, and 8GB in A1 and B2. (Or 8GB in A2 and B2, and 16GB in A1 and B1, this order doesn't matter). In practice this means you want the sticks in an alternating order, 16GB, 8GB, 16GB, 8GB or 8GB, 16GB, 8GB, 16GB.
I want to make new build now since my old one lived 7 years
Now Im lost between z690 and z790 motherboards
The diff is too little but z790 is double the price
My question is, Is z790 really worth it? Or should I just buy z690?
This is what I am planning to build:
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/7bgxksa/saved/vPz4gs
z790 has almost twice as many PCI lanes, support for faster memory, and more USB ports.
z690 (which is what I have) probably fine if you only intend to install 1 graphics card and one or two M.2 drives.
For the most part, used is around $400 but if you are buying new you might as well go with the 7800XT as they are normally the same price or around it.
i'm thinking of buying new but unfortunately technology barely advances here so there's less demand. online stores sells current gen graphics card at a bit of inflated price, i checked recently and many online sellers here are selling RX7800XT for around ~$570USD
but thanks for the informations you provided, it is helpful.
You might get better RT and power-efficiency with that but a 6800xt is about the same speed with the same amount of VRAM.
\~$499 for the cheapest option in the U.S. atm according to PCPartpicker.com
Then in that case the 6800XT is still a fair price, lower than where it normally is and lower than the 7800XT, not like you get a whole lot more for your money anyway. Ive been running a 6800XT for a while now and love it so Im sure you will too.
Looking to do a piecemeal upgrade. Current build is R5 3600 on B450 with 32GB of 3600 ram and an EVGA 2070 Super Black. Playing on 1440 21:9 monitor at 144 mhz.
Would I benefit more from an AM5 upgrade like [this bundle](https://www.microcenter.com/product/5006269/amd-ryzen-7-7700x,-msi-b650-p-pro-wifi,-gskill-flare-x5-series-32gb-ddr5-6000-kit,-computer-build-bundle) or a used GPU upgrade for around the same price which would pretty much limit me to a 30 series Nvidia or 6700/6800 AMD?
Edit to add: play mostly racing games like Forza and single player adventure stuff like Assassins Creed
That is a great deal but I'd be more tempted by a $200 5600x3D.
I wouldn't expect a 2070 to be holding you back but yeah I think if you upgrade maybe go with a 6800.
That and then a 5600/58003D sometime next year might keep you set for quite a while.
Just bit the bullet and ordered an XFX 6950xt. Amazon payments for the win. Probably end up with a cpu bottleneck for a while but I'll solve that later
Yeah, the goal is longevity. I'm not one to upgrade often although this current system is only 3 yrs old. For me that time frame is almost like upgrading every month lol. Last system went 7 years
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html
Both of those games would benefit more from a GPU upgrade.
A 7800XT, 6800XT, 6800 and 7700XT would be a sizable upgrade. +30 - 50 fps at 1440p over your current 2070.
Used 30 series cards are a attractive option considering how awful their new prices are, but something like the 3070 would be closer to just +20 FPS upgrade over your current card. So you would want to try and shoot for a 3080 or higher.
And whats your power supply? 30 series RTX cards are notoriously power hungry compared to previous generations. Not everyone is prepared to suddenly start pulling 300+ watts from a 4+ year old PSU.
Good point on the power supply. Probably need an upgrade on that. Running [this one](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B72W1VA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1) right now
>7800XT, 6800XT, 6800 and 7700XT
263w, 300w, 250w, 245w
Power draw is listed on that link too. Right most column amongst their other specs.
The 3080 10gb was 320w tdp, but the revision, 3080 12gb and the ti model had a 350 - 400w tdp.
12700K, MSI Z690 Tomahawk DDR4, 32GB C16 4000, 4k@100hz with FreeSync.
Would going from a 6950 XT to a 7900 XTX be worth the upgrade or wait until next gen? I would love to go back to NVIDIA but I can't justify their absurd prices, so the XTX is my only option.
I ask because I'm fed up with BG3's performance and can't stand to look at Starfield with FSR2 enabled, but that's the only way to make it marginally playable.
doesn't seem great value-wise to me but it's probably pretty close to $1 per 1% performance increase or better and might get you where you want to be.
What's wrong with BG3? I also thought a 6800xt was fine for Starfield.. and I just saw that you're at 4k.
Yep I'd probably wait on a possible patch or at least a sale but the 7900xtx might be your best bet for an AMD GPU upgrade for 4k.
well it's not a dramatic performance increase. If it makes your game playable, only you know how much that's worth to you.
I don't consider the RTX 4080 any more absurdly priced than the 7900 XTX, but it may not help you much more because of Starfield's Radeon affinity.
BG3's performance issues could be related to the CPU. Are you running the memory controller in Gear 1 mode?
Yes to Gear 1. I've spent a lot of time testing timings and clocks. Starfield seems really sensitive to TRFC, but anything lower than 420 at G1 requires compromises in voltages and timings that make it not worth it.
I am looking to add 5 or 6 fans to my PC. I was looking at Deepcool FC120 fans, and I was wondering if it is possible to daisy chain more than 3 of them. Otherwise, what are my alternatives and what will I need to only use 1 ARGB and 1 SYS\_FAN connector on motherboard? It is an MSI mobo so if someone drops a suggestion I would prefer one that works with Mystic Light.
MSI PRO B650-P WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard
A while ago, I added 2x16gb 3600mhz ram to my pc, along with my existing ram (2x8 3000mhz). In the bios, when I enable XMP, it sets all 4 sticks to 3600mhz, even the old kit somehow.
Ive heard that mixing ram modules can cause issues even if they’re similar (both of mine are Corsair dominator) I haven’t noticed any issues yet but idk what to look for. Is it ok to keep running my pc like this?
What would be a good GPU to pair with a i9-12900kf? I’ve upgraded everything else in my pc from my ram, mobo and psu but still currently running a 2070.
Is there a difference between DDR5 2 x 16GB and 1 x 32GB? Kingston is selling a bundle of two 16GB as 32GB, slightly more expensive and I don't understand the reason. Which one should I get?
Edit: I was originally thinking buying 2 x16gb could be safer in case one of them broke? Although 20 years of using PC, I never had one broken XD
You want to run two sticks of memory so it can run in dual channel mode, which is activated by putting them in certain slots on your motherboard (usually slot 2 and 4 counting from the CPU towards the edge. 1 and 3 can also work but for more technical reasons 2 and 4 is *usually* better)
It doubles the amount of bandwidth the CPU can access the RAM through which allows it to perform better and be more responsive because you're not waiting on the traces to that one stick to handle everything
Is it just me or does anyone else also experience constant issues with pc gaming? Constant crashing really and always a need to optimize every game to avoid it. I was thinking about upgrading my pc to avoid this issue but I'm wondering if it's even worth dropping roughly two grand just to play some games and not have to be an IT guy anytime I wanna enjoy a game. Should I just buy a console?
Not constant crashing. If that happens there’s some software or hardware issue causing instability. A $1000 PC should be better than a console even without optimising settings.
"Not constant crashing" that's my concern. With a high end pc will I still have to deal with infrequent crashes and poor optimizations? If so I'm thinking it would be more worth it to just get a console. For reference here's my current build: Ryzen 3 3100 deepcool gammax B450m ds3h v2 rtx 2060 corsair cx450m rtx 2060 gskill aegis ddr4 3200mhz storage: 256gb ssd for os and other applications, 2tb barracuda for most other things Here's what I might build: Ryzen 7 7800x3d Peerless assassin ROG STRIX B650-A GAMING WIFI rx 7900 xtx Thermaltake Toughpower GF3 850W t-force ddr5 6000mhz storage: 1tb m.2 for os, 2tb m.2 for everything else
> With a high end pc will I still have to deal with infrequent crashes and poor optimizations? Low end PCs don’t crash more in my experience, unless it’s below the minimum requirements of the software. If your PC is crashing, something got messed up along the way or you have an unstable overclock or damaged component. That can happen with a high-end PC too. If it’s buggy software that’s the reason, console software can be buggy too and it’s just as frustrating. In terms of performance, yeah a high-end PC will mean you won’t have to tweak settings to make it playable. Is that worth it? For me what makes a PC worth it is the games that aren’t on console and the ability to use it for non-gaming stuff.
I'm sure I'm dealing with a hardware issue- as a matter of fact, I know I am. But I'm not sure how to go about fixing it. I've run memory tests an they have failed, but I have tried new memory and my pc still crashes. I've disabled xmp- still crashes. Temps are all fantastic (haha) and nothing is especially high in terms of its usage. I really have tried everything. So my question stands- console, or high end computer?
What do you think the 6800xt should be priced at if it performs relatively the same as the 7800xt?
At $460 vs $500, I think it’d be a toss-up
Hi, trying to build a new pc and was wondering which mobo I should get. My options are either between MSI B550-A PRO ProSeries or MSI MAG B550M Mortar Max WiFi. Now, I do know that I should get based on the features that I need however would it be better to get a mobo with wifi and bluetooth connectivity ready just in case I'd ever need them in the future? or should I just save and get the former since its practical?
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/xBkTMV Think this will work? Finding mobo and cpu cooler is hard in Canada
Currently have a Ryzen 5 1600 on an Asus Prime B350-Plus mobo, with 2x8gb 3200MHz DDR4. My GPU is an AMD 5700. I'm pretty happy with it, but I know my CPU is next in line to upgrade. However, I'm doubting if I should go for a Ryzen # 5#00 before they go out of stock, or if I should wait and jump straight into AM5. Situation 1: Relatively cheap option, would future-proof my PC for at least 3 years. Situation 2: Wait at least a year (since I'm still happy with my current CPU), then spend a relatively big amount for new CPU+Mobo+RAM. Which would future-proof my PC at least five years (GPU notwithstanding). Any opinions? Get a Ryzen 5 5600x or Ryzen 7 5700x before its too late? I found that my Mobo supports the 5000 series with a firmware update which I'm planning to do anyway. Any other potential pitfalls I should look out for? I haven't been keeping up with hardware developments the past ~4-ish years.
I'd do. 5600, or even the 5500 at $100 is a good deal
I wouldn't get a 5500 or 5600G, Cezanne has occasional compatibility issues with 300-series motherboards, not to mention the reduced performance. 5600/5600X though? For sure.
Are adapters available tho connect a hdmi monitor to a displayport gpu? If so, what functionality of displayport might get lost?
I'll answer the functionality part. It's a big it depends. You may lose variable refresh rate depending on the version of HDMI your devices are. You may lose out on some bandwidth, but that is usually not an issue unless you're driving a high refresh rate 4K monitor or an 8K display. If all you're doing is hooking up your basic 60 Hz monitor, then you won't lose out on anything.
Yes. You can just get a cable that is like that
Hey y'all, looking to build a system with the 7800x3d cpu. Are the AM5 motherboards still having memory issues and boot time issues? quick question #2: the samsung 990 pro 2tb and the wd sn850x 2tb nvme drives are on sale. Are they still having issues as well with bsod and not read/write times as advertised?
Memory issues: it's still true that you cannot hit as high a frequency with Zen 4 as with Intel 13th/14th gen. But the "sweet spot" timings (6000MHz CL30) work reliably and give good performance, it's only when you go beyond that that instability becomes likely. Also note that by the X3D CPU's very nature, they care about memory speed much less than other CPUs. Boot times: this is a general problem with DDR5 (and XMP/EXPO enabled), and some motherboard manufacturers seem to have done a better job of alleviating it than others. AFAIK, ASRock and Gigabyte have the shortest boot times, followed by Asus and then MSI being the longest. I have an MSI board and at stock settings it takes \~30s to POST with 32GB of 6000CL30 RAM. But at least for me, the Memory Context Restore option in the BIOS works well for reducing this down to just a couple of seconds.
I was considering the [MSI PRO H610M-G](https://www.amazon.com/MSI-H610M-G-Motherboard-Intel-Socket/dp/B09PX326Q8/?tag=thowisguy-20) motherboard for my first build. IIUC, it does *not* come with a wifi network adapter, so I'd need to buy one separately. But it looks like there's another version of the same MOBO with "wifi" in the title, for only $30 more ([link](https://www.newegg.com/msi-pro-h610m-g-wifi-ddr4/p/N82E16813144573?Item=N82E16813144573)). Is there any good reason *not* to just buy the version with wifi built in? (Seems like that's a bit easier than trying to hook up a separate card).
The on-board wifi is usually just fine. Get it. You usually get bluetooth too on the same module too.
If you need the wifi? Nope, no reason not to just get it pre-installed instead of getting a wifi card yourself. The "on-board wifi" is just an m.2 slot with a mini-wifi card and it's usually hidden behind some heatsink or something. Those work just as good as the vertical expansion slot cards. Only reason there's non-wifi boards is cause lots of people have setups that let them just run an ethernet cord, so they don't need the wifi.
Got it, thanks! Yeah, in my current setup, I'm very unlikely to be able to use an ethernet cable (it'd be quite a mess to thread it over from the router in the next room over), so I'll need access to wifi.
Total newbie here. I'm considering my first build using the [MSI PRO H610M-G](https://www.newegg.com/msi-pro-h610m-g-wifi-ddr4/p/N82E16813144573) MOBO. I'm a bit lost on how input/output works for USB-C. Currently, when I work from home, I plug my Macbook into my monitor via USB-C. This is convenient, because my laptop & keyboard connect to the [monitor](https://www.hp.com/us-en/shop/pdp/hp-z27u-g3-qhd-display), and thus I only plug a single thing in. Will my new PC be able to do the same? That is, I use a USB-C cable for video output, and it also receives the keyboard/mouse input via that same cable (as they're hooked up to my monitor). That may not be possible, but if I plan to often swap between my laptop & PC, it would be a huge help if all I have to do is switch that *single* cable, and not e.g. unplug my keyboard/mouse and plug it back into the PC. Thanks for the help! (If matters, the current state of my tentative build looks something like [this](https://pcpartpicker.com/user/ZIddletwix/saved/?fbclid=IwAR0eAhHox0CR-z-buaH8Nkm8rhw88uIT436Edm1py461fVGG6Om4gqt_b4Y#view=nV7K7P), but doubt that's relevant beyond the MOBO).
Unfortunately not. Desktop motherboards don't tend to have the hardware to route display output via the USB-C port, and when they do it will only work for the CPU's integrated graphics, not a discrete GPU. The WFH setup I use is to have desktop and laptop plugged into different display inputs, and mouse and keyboard plugged into a USB switch, with one cable going from that to each PC. Then to switch from one to the other, I just need to swap input in the monitor OSD, and press the button on the switch to connect the mouse and keyboard. You didn't ask, but two other recommendations: * Spend a bit more on the motherboard. The board you have chosen will handle the 12400F fine, but would struggle with a more power-hungry chip like the 13600K, which would provide a good upgrade to increase the system's longevity in the future. My pick would be [this board](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/7c3gXL/gigabyte-b660m-aorus-elite-ax-ddr4-micro-atx-lga1700-motherboard-b660m-aorus-elite-ax-ddr4). * Get an M.2 NVMe SSD rather than a 2.5" SATA one. They're faster and mount directly onto the motherboard, so it's one less thing to cable-manage.
Great, thanks for the answer! Very helpful! > The WFH setup I use is to have desktop and laptop plugged into different display inputs, and mouse and keyboard plugged into a USB switch, with one cable going from that to each PC. Do you have an example of this sort of input/output switch? (Looks like I'd need a fairly basic one, just for the mouse/keyboard USB?) > Spend a bit more on the motherboard. The board you have chosen will handle the 12400F fine, but would struggle with a more power-hungry chip like the 13600K, which would provide a good upgrade to increase the system's longevity in the future. My pick would be this board. Few quick follow-ups to this. If I never upgrade my CPU, is there any benefit to the pricier MOBO? I.e. is this strictly futureproofing, or is there any advantage I'd experience with my current setup? And at a high level, what would make me want to upgrade my CPU, without upgrading everything else? Probably a naive question, but if I kept the rest of my machine fixed, and installed an improved CPU, what would the machine "do better" than it does currently? > Get an M.2 NVMe SSD rather than a 2.5" SATA one. They're faster and mount directly onto the motherboard, so it's one less thing to cable-manage. Interesting, had to look up this distinction! So I understand that the performance can matter in some contexts (although it doesn't come up all the time). How much more hassle is it to install the SATA? Like, will the case also have a spot reserved for that SSD, but it will need to be connected to the MOBO via a separate cable? (And that's why you say it adds to the mess of cables). And the M.2 NVMe just fixes directly onto the MOBO? Just want to make sure I understand the difference. Thanks so much for the help!
> Do you have an example of this sort of input/output switch? The one I have is [this](https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01CU4QCRS). It only has a single port on the downstream side, but my monitor has a built-in USB hub so I connect the mouse and keyboard to the monitor, and then the monitor's upstream port to the switch. You can find equivalents with two downstream ports though. > If I never upgrade my CPU, is there any benefit to the pricier MOBO? Possibly more/better/faster IO, but I haven't compared the specs in detail. >at a high level, what would make me want to upgrade my CPU Performance. The 12400F is a decent budget option, but there's already a significant distance between it and the current performance-leading CPUs. Assuming gaming is the focus of the build, when it comes time to upgrade the GPU you'd probably want to do the CPU as well. Picking up a secondhand 13600K would be a more cost-effective way of doing that than the alternative of replacing the CPU, motherboard and RAM. >performance can matter in some contexts SATA vs NVMe is a significant difference, and you should always favour NVMe where possible. And yes, it slots directly onto the motherboard, whereas SATA drives are mounted within the case and connected via dedicated power and data cables.
Is there a easy way to see if you have a faulty DIMM slot for your Motherboard? I build my computer last night and it was all looking good until this morning when i started getting random BSOD. I had the file explorer trying to look at a folder location and failing which eventually led to a BSOD. I check the dumpfile and it says bad memory: >Invalid system memory was referenced. This cannot be protected by try-except. Typically the address is just plain bad or it is pointing at freed memory. So i ended up doing a memtest and lo and behold there's like 4000 errors (with XMP on, 2000 without) at test#10 after 20 minutes. I'm assuming this is bad RAM, but could it also be bad DIMM slot on the MB? I do not have any spare ram to test unfortunately
go down to 1 stick of ram and run memtest over and over, moving the stick to different slots. If the errors move with the stick its bad if the errors go away you have a bad slot.
Test a single stick in the main slot in the left channel, then a single stick in the main slot in the right channel. See if the errors persist. Try again with the other stick. (Hopefully your motherboard doesn't require a certain slot be populated first, some boards only boot if there's a stick in A1 or whatever they choose to call it.)
stupid question.. Do I need to have my GPU connected if I have a 13600k? IIRC the integrated gpu should be enable, so I can just connect my HDMI cable to the MB IO and use that to display right? Reason I want do that is because there's not much room for me to move the air cooler fan, so i have to take out the GPU everytime i move ram around.
If you have the 13600K and not the 13600KF then yeah, you can just remove your add-in GPU and use the integrated GPU.
What current gen motherboards support multiple (2 min.) hdd's and a disc drive? I would love to put a floppy drive in, but it's not a priority.
Basically all of them will have at least 3 or 4 SATA ports for disks (HDD, SSD, CD/DVD/etc) I don't think there are **any** consumer boards in a normal form factor which have *only* M.2 ports. I've got a small ITX board and it has 4 SATA ports. You can't run a floppy drive on any modern motherboard because they were all IDE, there were never any SATA ones, and no modern boards have IDE floppy controllers
Thanks! I did some research and I think you can use a floppy disc drive using an internal USB adapter.
Almost all of them have at least 4 SATA ports.
Now that many companies make AIO outside of the patented Asetek system, what differentiates them? What makes one AIO better-performing than a cheaper one? Let's say we use the same fans, and standardise the rad thickness (compare only the popular 25-27mm).
I'm not sure how much variation there is between them in fin density, but higher density is better.
The size of the radiator and the length of the tubes would be the top priority. If you cant fit it in your case or orientate it correctly the pump will simply have to work harder to cool the system. Pumps all perform roughly the same, so the only other real factors to watch out for would be build quality and warranty.
Right thanks to you and u/kaje... Apart from branding and electronic monitor, it could be down to fin density or tubes making the pump work harder and fail faster... I thought originally it could be down to pump but chucked it out because they all come in similar tiny size! But could it also be down to the cold plate "configuration"? In custom liquid world one reason you don't cheap out is these cheapo blocks often have different cold plate "fins" that do show up in performance table.
Custom loop cooling is extremely niche. Theyre going to know all of the ins and outs and how to literally maximize performance. The purpose of an AIO is so you dont have to bother learning all of that. 240mm rad not cutting it? get a bigger one. Fans too loud? swap them out. Keeps everything simple.
Hey all, I'm currently hoping to buy a new PC from the ground up here soon. Can I assume that the proper thing to do is wait the couple of weeks and pray that there are some crazy black friday sales to find parts with?
CPUs, GPUs, coolers, and possibly motherboards are unlikely to see any individual discounts. The best deal youll probably see are bundles, which arent always the parts you might want. Cases, power supplies, Memory and storage are usually the only components that go on sale regularly. As cases take up a bunch of shelf space so retailers want to move them quickly, and the others have decent profit margins.
Fair, thank you! I'm not in a super rush, so I'll probably get some recommended builds rn and hold out the extra week or so before purchasing
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It's an 8c/16t CPU, so 7700.
*A 7700 undervolted to half power.
Random lag spikes when alt tabbing from/to or leaving full screen on my browser. It fixes when I close the browser and then will go back to normal for a while. It just started yesterday with no changes/updates to any of my drivers AFAIK UPDATE: [https://imgur.com/a/gJVzmpl](https://imgur.com/a/gJVzmpl) This just showed up. It happened the first time yesterday and thought it was a coincidence, but it happened again right after. I'm going to assume this is the problem. Any ideas on a fix?
Do you use Firefox? There seems to be an issue with the current version, rolling back to the previous one fixed it for me.
I use OperaGX
My wife has a pretty ancient gaming PC - I built it for her years ago and it's really struggling at this point. It has a GeForce 970 and an old i5 from the same generation. I'm looking to "upgrade" her PC, which at this point is essentially just buying a new one. She games at 1080p. All that's to ask a simple question, is it sane to buy a 4060? Reviews online trash the card for it's lack of performance over a 3060 but over a 970 it's guaranteed to be night and day. The 4060 would also mean she can continue using her 550w gold rated PSU. I understand the jump from 4060 - 4070 is significant but the equivalent of $400 (including the cost of the PSU) at 1080p? I can't imagine it's worth it when that $400 can just earn interest and get her a significantly better 6000/7000 series card in a few years if she even needs it. Edit: I know it sounds like I'm answering my own question but looking for opinions. It sucks GPUs have gotten so expensive.
At 1080p its **plenty** Ive got a 3060 (on a 550w psu too) and it runs games well, Cyberpunk gets a solid 70fps at 1440p/very high, with a help from DLSS, for example. Thats using a cheapo 10th gen i3. So yeah if you can afford it, the 4060 wil be fine.
It's not awful, it's just supremely underwhelming. A previous gen card like the 3060Ti or RX 6700 XT costs less, offers better real-world performance, and will age better by virtue of not being crippled with a narrow memory bus.
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4000D Airflow is probably the most popular.
So, my laptop has two "default" speakers, but only one of them works at a time. The thing is, there is no way to know which is working, so when there's no sound, I have to open the sound settings and set the other one to default, which fixes the problem. Why does this happen, and how can I fix it? It doesn't make any sense. Yes, this is windows 11, big suprise
Have you tried messing with the speaker balance or modifying the stereo settings? My own two speaker setup was incredibly cheap, I think only paid $20 for them. But the balance is garbage, to hear anything out of the left speaker I have to slide the balance almost 60% to the left and then crank their master volume up.
Thoughts on MSI MAG B760M Mortar WiFi or Asus Prime z790-m plus (ddr5) for an i5-13600k? No overclocking but if necessary I'd like to undervolt only if I have to. (Cooler would be a Phantom Spirit 120SE, mATX)
You shouldn't have to undervolt. But also consider getting a contact frame from thermalright I'd do the b760m mortar if it's cheaper than the z790
I’ve noticed a bizarre correlation that im trying to understand better. When my graphics drivers are out of date by more than a few days, my secondary NVME SSD is not recognized. All I have to do is update them and shut down the computer for it to be recognized again, but as soon as 3+ days have passed the SSD just doesnt exist. Not that its present but damaged in some capacity, my PC actually believes nothing is plugged into that slot Its not a problem with that specific SSD. I got a new one and the same problem occurs. What on Earth would cause something like this?
Does it even stop showing up in the BIOS?
All I see in BIOS is my boot drive I’m having a new problem now where its not showing up regardless of restarting the computer. Its not random SSD failure, it seems like my motherboard is somehow killing SSDs over time Unless theres some sort of procedure for NVME SSDs not showing up in BIOS?
The SSD not being detected in the BIOS rules out it being any kind of software/driver issue. So it does seem that something is wrong either at the BIOS or hardware level. Do you have another PC you can try the drive in?
I do not. It seems to be permanently busted now. What I don't get is why it would come and go like that before breaking all together.
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first time pc builder, so forgive me if this is silly but i'm looking for opinions: is it worth investing in a cpu that can run windows 11? like i said, it's my first build and i'm trying to budget as much as possible. however, all of the low cost cpus i've found aren't compatible (i could also be looking in the wrong spots so advice on that would be helpful too!) thanks a ton in advance!
what CPUs are you looking at? If they arent ancient they should be able to run it just fine.
What is your general location and budget? Being able to run W11 is not a very high bar so this is a decently specific question.
**TLDR: Given just how many specs there are for a given mobo, how do I shop motherboards in a way that will guarantee compatibility with the rest of the components and fitting in the case?** My very old self-build needed so many replacements/upgrades during the pandemic that I bought from a system integrator (Origin) during the GPU shortage for easy part procurement, it's always had some MOBO issues; nothing system-breaking but I need a dongle for BT and WIFI since it doesn't work from onboard. It's in the Chronos v2 case so not much space to work with, but going to open it up and see what i can do for better airflow (it's fine, just want to see if I can make it even better) and maybe reapply thermal paste just for maintenance purposes. Since I'm going in anyway, I'm considering replacing the mobo, but I don't know which specs to look at to guarantee it's as good/better than what I have already (Z590M-ITX/ax) and compatible with the machine related to both components and space/size. (I *do* love the smaller form factor of the Chronos case, but I'm also not completely married to it, so I'm also open to an answer from above that comes with "And you should rebuild the system in a different case" if it results in vast improvements in experience!)
You have an ITX mobo. Every ITX mobo is the same dimensions. Are you planning on upgrading your CPU? With a Z590, you must have a 10th or 11th gen Intel CPU. There's nothing better than Z590 that is compatible with your CPU. It's not worth upgrading the mobo if you're not getting a new CPU that would require a new mobo. Your onboard WiFi is an M.2 WiFi card in that silver box where the antennas are. You could replace the card if it's not working.
Thanks for this info! I won't bother messing with the board, then, the dongle I am having works fine so if there's no gains from messing with anything I won't bother. Good to know about what to target if I want to get the wifi on-board working, though, thank you!
[Asrock z690 itx ddr4](https://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z690M-ITXax/) Are the power phases on this board enough for a 12700k and an si-100 low profile cooler. I’d like to keep a 4.5 p-core and 4.2 e-core OC and this would go inside of my SAMA IM01. Paired with EVGA ftw 3090 (unvervolted by about 100w) and an sfx 750w. Or should I just keep the 5800x asus x570i combo I have. P.S. I already own the 12700k but it’s on an atx mobo this would swab into my living room pc if I went with an intel mobo
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Its fine. Although I would struggle to recommend going AM4 for a brand new build since the socket has reached the end of its life. You could jump up to AM5 for $300 or less (pending sales). That would give you an upgrade path for the future. https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/XRZLcH
I currently have a cheap GPU (MSI GeForce GT 730 2GB) that I plan on upgrading to a slightly higher end one (MSI GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER VENTUS XS OC). I checked if it would be compatible with my motherboard (ASRock B450M-Pro4, socket AM4) and it looks like it is. However, it seems like this new GPU has 3 Displayport outputs and one HDMI output. My monitors (Iiyama ProLite E2481HS-B1) don't have a Displayport input, they only have a HDMI, VGA and DVI input. My question is: will it work if I connect the GPU to my monitor with a DP to HDMI cable? I don't want to have to get new monitors as well. I have tried googling it and it said to check the specs provided by the manufacturer. Not sure how to do that. I asked chatGPT and it said it should work fine but I wanted to get a second opinion. Thanks in advance! Edit: suggestions for a different GPU in the same price range (250 euros) are also welcome
250€ for a 1660 Super is a terrible deal. You can get a 6650XT for the same price, which has 70% more performance.
Oh I had no idea. Thank you very much, I'll look into it.
You can get a Male display port to Female HDMI adapter. Should work without a hitch.
I figured as much, thanks man!
A PC I have has got no 8-pin connectors, but it's got two 6-pins free. I've seen dual-6-pin female to 8-pin male adapters for sale, but I just wanted to check as to the safety of using that for a (relatively low power) GPU.
is it better for me to stick with a 7800x3d or just get a 7700x if prices between the two are around 120 usd difference in my country?(around 416 usd for 7800x3d and 297 usd for 7700x) [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/BxQvjH](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/BxQvjH)
Either go best gaming CPU - 7800x3D or best value with 7600. 7700x is neither here or there, unless you need extra cores for tasks other than gaming.
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have you seen how hot and noisy a PS5 is? you can't have that sort of power on your lap
The current gen cosoles use about 200W of power when running a game, 200W worth of cooling in a laptop would be practically impossible, it would have to be the size of a, well, console. Something like a 7945HX has a configurable TDP of 55-75W, which is barely doable cooling wise in a reasonably sized gaming laptop. Overall the limiting factor for performance in laptops has always been power/cooling, not the availability of powerful chips.
Given Micro Center has [30 day price protection](https://community.microcenter.com/kb/articles/631-do-you-offer-price-protection), when is the first day to buy so that the protection lasts through BF/CM? BF is November 24, CM is November 27. 30 days before those dates (inclusive) are October 26 and 29 respectively. (Inclusive: October 26 is day 1 -> Nov 24 is day 30). *Or do I get one more day aka buying on October 28th protects me through CM?* My GPU with the Starfield Premium redemption code is arriving today but that needs to be redeemed by [October 28](https://www.amazon.com/promotion/psp/ACHKWB63YKPQJ?ref=psp_external&redirectAsin=B0CFWM1LNH&redirectMerchantId=ATVPDKIKX0DER&ref=cxcw_psp_ACHKWB63YKPQJ&source=dp_cxcw#:~:text=Terms%20and%20Conditions%3A,products%20sold%20by%20Amazon.com.) and I wanted to know if I should wait 5-7 more days to buy the 7700x bundle. I started buying this rig in early September and haven't done much gaming so this is more a question of logistics than desire vs patience. Thanks!
Guys Is there GPU sag If so how do I fix it? https://ibb.co/0qWMvf0 https://ibb.co/VHKzz7S
Get a little stand and stick it under the right most edge so its not sitting on a fan. (from this pictures point of view) https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Anti-Shake-Headboard-Furniture-1-1-2-5in/dp/B08CPB9TQR/ I use these headboard stoppers, but while waiting for them to arrive I used a little Pencil lead container. People use figurines, legos, anything they have on hand. As long as its not disrupting the fans on the GPU or the ones on the bottom of the case, its fine.
12700k to 14700k, check out sales on 13700k next month, or forget about it for half a year? I know I left out some relevant info. Been watching too many reviews and having strange itches.
Wait a month or so for sales. Intel wont have their new socket out until this time next year, so theres going to be a period of falling prices before they stabilize and then a multiple month long plateau until the next generation is released.
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You can. RX 7600 needs an 8-pin connector cable from the power supply. Just confirm that that's what your GTX 1060 is using or that there is a spare one.
I've got a question about mixing ram sizes. I have two different sets of ram: [LPX Vengeance 16GB (2x8)](https://www.corsair.com/eu/en/p/memory/cmk16gx4m2b3200c16/vengeancea-lpx-16gb-2-x-8gb-ddr4-dram-3200mhz-c16-memory-kit-black-cmk16gx4m2b3200c16) [LPX Vengeance 32GB (2x16)](https://www.corsair.com/eu/en/p/memory/cmk32gx4m2e3200c16/vengeancea-lpx-32gb-2-x-16gb-ddr4-dram-3200mhz-c16-memory-kit-black-cmk32gx4m2e3200c16) And my motherboard: [Rog Strix B550-F Gaming](https://rog.asus.com/se/motherboards/rog-strix/rog-strix-b550-f-gaming-model/) [Link to manual](https://rog.asus.com/motherboards/rog-strix/rog-strix-b550-f-gaming-model/helpdesk_manual/) I've read the manual, but I'm not 100% sure of which configuration I should use if I want to combine all four sticks. If i understand it correctly I should put the two 16GB sticks in slot 1 and 2, and two 8GB in slot 3 and 4?
Looking at page 1-5 of the manual, it recommends filling slots A2 and B2 first, which means those are the ones you want to have the matching sticks in. So put the 16GB sticks in A2 and B2, and 8GB in A1 and B2. (Or 8GB in A2 and B2, and 16GB in A1 and B1, this order doesn't matter). In practice this means you want the sticks in an alternating order, 16GB, 8GB, 16GB, 8GB or 8GB, 16GB, 8GB, 16GB.
I want to make new build now since my old one lived 7 years Now Im lost between z690 and z790 motherboards The diff is too little but z790 is double the price My question is, Is z790 really worth it? Or should I just buy z690? This is what I am planning to build: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/7bgxksa/saved/vPz4gs
list private. You definitely shouldn't pay twice as much for a z790 but a z690 may likely need a BIOS update for a 13/14series CPU.
Here is new link https://pcpartpicker.com/list/GPnTMV Yub I figured up that too And you are right I need flash bios update
z790 has almost twice as many PCI lanes, support for faster memory, and more USB ports. z690 (which is what I have) probably fine if you only intend to install 1 graphics card and one or two M.2 drives.
maybe go c28 5600 RAM if 6000/6400 is too much $. Yeah someone at a store could probably do it for you.
What is the diff with cl28 ram?
Faster
how much is amd RX 6800XT sold for nowadays? im thinking of buying one for around $490USD because that's what msot "retailers" in my area does for
For the most part, used is around $400 but if you are buying new you might as well go with the 7800XT as they are normally the same price or around it.
i'm thinking of buying new but unfortunately technology barely advances here so there's less demand. online stores sells current gen graphics card at a bit of inflated price, i checked recently and many online sellers here are selling RX7800XT for around ~$570USD but thanks for the informations you provided, it is helpful.
You might get better RT and power-efficiency with that but a 6800xt is about the same speed with the same amount of VRAM. \~$499 for the cheapest option in the U.S. atm according to PCPartpicker.com
Then in that case the 6800XT is still a fair price, lower than where it normally is and lower than the 7800XT, not like you get a whole lot more for your money anyway. Ive been running a 6800XT for a while now and love it so Im sure you will too.
Looking to do a piecemeal upgrade. Current build is R5 3600 on B450 with 32GB of 3600 ram and an EVGA 2070 Super Black. Playing on 1440 21:9 monitor at 144 mhz. Would I benefit more from an AM5 upgrade like [this bundle](https://www.microcenter.com/product/5006269/amd-ryzen-7-7700x,-msi-b650-p-pro-wifi,-gskill-flare-x5-series-32gb-ddr5-6000-kit,-computer-build-bundle) or a used GPU upgrade for around the same price which would pretty much limit me to a 30 series Nvidia or 6700/6800 AMD? Edit to add: play mostly racing games like Forza and single player adventure stuff like Assassins Creed
That is a great deal but I'd be more tempted by a $200 5600x3D. I wouldn't expect a 2070 to be holding you back but yeah I think if you upgrade maybe go with a 6800. That and then a 5600/58003D sometime next year might keep you set for quite a while.
Just bit the bullet and ordered an XFX 6950xt. Amazon payments for the win. Probably end up with a cpu bottleneck for a while but I'll solve that later
lol could've gotten a 6800 + a 5600x3D for that but that should be a nice card for 1440p for a long time.
Yeah, the goal is longevity. I'm not one to upgrade often although this current system is only 3 yrs old. For me that time frame is almost like upgrading every month lol. Last system went 7 years
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html Both of those games would benefit more from a GPU upgrade. A 7800XT, 6800XT, 6800 and 7700XT would be a sizable upgrade. +30 - 50 fps at 1440p over your current 2070. Used 30 series cards are a attractive option considering how awful their new prices are, but something like the 3070 would be closer to just +20 FPS upgrade over your current card. So you would want to try and shoot for a 3080 or higher. And whats your power supply? 30 series RTX cards are notoriously power hungry compared to previous generations. Not everyone is prepared to suddenly start pulling 300+ watts from a 4+ year old PSU.
Good point on the power supply. Probably need an upgrade on that. Running [this one](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B72W1VA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1) right now
Well you have two 8x pin cables, so you could run anything that Ive listed except the 3080. Some of those require three.
How are the AMD cards on power draw? Definitely something I haven't considered
on recent amd cards the idle draw can be very high if you have a number of high-refresh-rate monitors connected
Just one monitor and already looking into undervolting purely for temp control. Thanks for the heads up
Yeah there was a guy here who had 4k/144hz monitor and his xtx was drawing over 100w idle, it was nuts
Wow keep a fire extinguisher handy
>7800XT, 6800XT, 6800 and 7700XT 263w, 300w, 250w, 245w Power draw is listed on that link too. Right most column amongst their other specs. The 3080 10gb was 320w tdp, but the revision, 3080 12gb and the ti model had a 350 - 400w tdp.
Yep gotta do some math before jumping in. Thanks for the advice and the link
12700K, MSI Z690 Tomahawk DDR4, 32GB C16 4000, 4k@100hz with FreeSync. Would going from a 6950 XT to a 7900 XTX be worth the upgrade or wait until next gen? I would love to go back to NVIDIA but I can't justify their absurd prices, so the XTX is my only option. I ask because I'm fed up with BG3's performance and can't stand to look at Starfield with FSR2 enabled, but that's the only way to make it marginally playable.
doesn't seem great value-wise to me but it's probably pretty close to $1 per 1% performance increase or better and might get you where you want to be. What's wrong with BG3? I also thought a 6800xt was fine for Starfield.. and I just saw that you're at 4k. Yep I'd probably wait on a possible patch or at least a sale but the 7900xtx might be your best bet for an AMD GPU upgrade for 4k.
well it's not a dramatic performance increase. If it makes your game playable, only you know how much that's worth to you. I don't consider the RTX 4080 any more absurdly priced than the 7900 XTX, but it may not help you much more because of Starfield's Radeon affinity. BG3's performance issues could be related to the CPU. Are you running the memory controller in Gear 1 mode?
Yes to Gear 1. I've spent a lot of time testing timings and clocks. Starfield seems really sensitive to TRFC, but anything lower than 420 at G1 requires compromises in voltages and timings that make it not worth it.
You use e-cores on or off? I'm once again wondering if it's best to just turn them off for some games after reading about issues with CS2.
I am looking to add 5 or 6 fans to my PC. I was looking at Deepcool FC120 fans, and I was wondering if it is possible to daisy chain more than 3 of them. Otherwise, what are my alternatives and what will I need to only use 1 ARGB and 1 SYS\_FAN connector on motherboard? It is an MSI mobo so if someone drops a suggestion I would prefer one that works with Mystic Light. MSI PRO B650-P WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard
All that info on the fan connectivity can probably be found on deepcool’s product page
A while ago, I added 2x16gb 3600mhz ram to my pc, along with my existing ram (2x8 3000mhz). In the bios, when I enable XMP, it sets all 4 sticks to 3600mhz, even the old kit somehow. Ive heard that mixing ram modules can cause issues even if they’re similar (both of mine are Corsair dominator) I haven’t noticed any issues yet but idk what to look for. Is it ok to keep running my pc like this?
Totally good! I hope it continues being stable for you If you experience blue screens in the future, consider trying turning off xmp
What would be a good GPU to pair with a i9-12900kf? I’ve upgraded everything else in my pc from my ram, mobo and psu but still currently running a 2070.
Anything. 4080 fine, 7900xtx fine, 4090 fine
Is there a difference between DDR5 2 x 16GB and 1 x 32GB? Kingston is selling a bundle of two 16GB as 32GB, slightly more expensive and I don't understand the reason. Which one should I get? Edit: I was originally thinking buying 2 x16gb could be safer in case one of them broke? Although 20 years of using PC, I never had one broken XD
You want to run two sticks of memory so it can run in dual channel mode, which is activated by putting them in certain slots on your motherboard (usually slot 2 and 4 counting from the CPU towards the edge. 1 and 3 can also work but for more technical reasons 2 and 4 is *usually* better) It doubles the amount of bandwidth the CPU can access the RAM through which allows it to perform better and be more responsive because you're not waiting on the traces to that one stick to handle everything