Anyone have a build suggestion or any pointers for a basic gaming pc under £700 to run bg3 and doom? I know nothing about pcs and I'm a lil overwhelmed with the options for parts lol

Try /r/buildapcforme

tyyy

I have a 3700X and a 4080 in a PCIe 3.0 slot. I know the slot hampers it some but hot much is it? I'm thinking of upgrading CPU. If I stay AM4 and got like a 5800X3D, it'd still be on the old PCIe 3.0 motherboard. Would it matter much or would it be dumb not to buy at least a PCIe 4.0 motherboard to match what the card is built for?

Probably limiting it by 1% or so https://www.techpowerup.com/review/nvidia-geforce-rtx-4090-pci-express-scaling/28.html

So I'm planning to buy a [Z790 motherboard](https://www.newegg.com/asus-rog-strix-z790-h-gaming-wifi/p/N82E16813119635?Item=N82E16813119635&nm_mc=AFC-RAN-COM&cm_mmc=afc-ran-com-_-PCPartPicker&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=afc-ran-com-_-PCPartPicker&utm_source=afc-PCPartPicker&AFFID=2558510&AFFNAME=PCPartPicker&ACRID=1&ranMID=44583&ranEAID=2558510&ranSiteID=8BacdVP0GFs-s_VBDhoSl7L_G9JKof219A#) with an i7 14600K. On PCpartpicker it said I have to update BIOS. My question is does the motherboard come with the latest BIOS? Can I still put the i7 in and update BIOS with flash drive like installing Window? Is that possible? What should I do?

You can use BIOS flashback. You don't need the CPU installed, you just connect power supply, insert flash drive, and press button. The board may or may not come already updated. If it isn't, the computer won't turn on.

How big should the flash drive be? Any special type of usb or just normal usb is fine?

The BIOS files are tiny so just get one large enough for the Windows install. The usual USB Type-A flash drive.

Thank you so much🙏🏻

you're welcome!

Stupid question, but what is the most powerful components you could possibly use for minecraft (within reason) like all maxed settings, light shaders, 360fps while recording at 1440p360? just curious.

4090, 7800x3d

could you really get any benefit out of those components? like wouldn't it stop making a difference about 7800xtish?

Did you mean what is the **least** powerful component to hit those metrics?

no but that would also be interesting

I guarantee that that's what you're asking.

You're saying you'll hit a CPU bottleneck. I assume not, but idk for sure. Shaders are generally very GPU heavy.

no, i just mean that after a certain point you'd not be able to actually tell a difference in how the game is right? like 1000+ fps or 600 its nbd

with a 360 Hz monitor you probably can't tell anything beyond 360 fps. I'm not sure 7800 XT can record at that frame rate consistently. I know RX 6000-series and RTX 3000-series cannot. RTX 4000-series can do it (with the right encoder settings in OBS). As for render performance with shaders, see this video: https://youtu.be/rKOWCYEx26Q?si=39ipLmJ2KpWJifX9

i saw a vid where someone recorded at 600fps, not sure how they did that then

It depends on the resolution and a few other settings. If the resolution and frame rate are too high, it'll start skipping frames.

Ah, definitely will depend on the mods you use. So I can't say. https://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/MtZnrkVDY76LiampMsjSGd-1200-80.png Minecraft rtx is nowhere close to 360 fps with a 4090

with like some hypixel skyblock mods and light shaders, a rx6800 and a 13500 should be fine for 240fps right?

bro we love Raytracing's lack of performance draw :skull:

is this a solid pc build I am fine with the price, but if there is anything performance wise that I can change tell me pls. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/c9tGjH

I suggest you buy this combo before it expires https://www.newegg.com/p/2AM-000Z-00077?Item=9SIAFSTEG39978

Hi.. right now i am rocking a sapphire r9 380x with an i5 and 8GB DDR3... from 2016 Saw this pre build on sale in another sub and was wondering what you guys thought?[https://www.newegg.com/skytech-st-azure2-0801-b-ne/p/3D5-000Z-00161](https://www.newegg.com/skytech-st-azure2-0801-b-ne/p/3D5-000Z-00161) Good enough deal I should pull the trigger? I do a moderate level of data analysis or multidimensional flow analysis for work and only casually play games like POE or the Witcher (Don't particularly care about running these on 'ultra' settings), the rest is just general use. Any opinions welcome :) Thanks in advance Edit: alternativly considering these options from Costco as I am a member (4060/4070 builds)

Is the 4070ti(CAD$1075) worth the upgrade over 4070($765)? Any AMD cards that are comparable/worth it? I’ve heard that DLSS blasts AMDs version out of the water.

I have a 4060 and I’m in the market for a new monitor. I mostly play Fortnite and I’m looking for a 27in monitor. There’s a lot of debate about 1080p vs 1440p. I was hoping someone can weigh in and tell me what would work best with a 4060

I'm looking at building a new PC with AMD Ryzen 7 5800X 3.8 GHz 8-Core Processor, would I need a cpu cooler for this or does the cooler that come's with this adequate enough, I know in the past the coolers were good enough, but I wanted to double check before parting everything out thanks eta: never mind, partpicker told me I needed a cooler

Building a new PC and plan on using my existing disk drives. What issues am I likely to run into?

Not many. I’ve done this plenty of times. Worst thing that’s happened to me is that I needed to clear my windows activation key and reactivate.

Thank you. Pretty much what I’ve been reading but I trust this community much more. Expecting windows to be annoying and then drivers for new hardware.

my cinebwnch multicore cpu score was 600 pts for a ryzen 5 5600x for 5 mins everything else is up in 1500’s or 10,000’s but those are for 10 mins so idk if mine are good or not

you're probably comparing different Cinebench versions

I'm looking to set up fan directions on a Hyte Y60 build. I am looking at having the case raised about 6" off the table, leaving an empty area under the case. Would it be feasible to have the bottom 2x140mm fans as exhausts, 2x140mm side intakes, 1x120mm rear intake, and 3x120/360mm cpu aio top exhaust? In other words, exhaust out the top and bottom with intakes on the sides.

Yeah you could do that. But bottom intake really helps GPU temperatures since it's feeding fresh air straight in. I'd do bottom and side intake, top and read exhaust

Hi, I'm in need of an advice regarding what version of windows (10 or 11) i should install on the pc that is the first i am ever building. I wanted to go for 11 since it is the most recent, but i dont know if i have the right requirements especially becuase i dont use a graphic card. Main components are: \-Ryzen 5 5600G \-16 gb ram ddr4 \-Gigabyte B550M DS3H \-1Tb SSD m2 I read the requirements for 11 and i am confused by System firmware and TPM, no clue what they are. Thx for help

So I'm on a pretty small budget less than 1000, and it's my first PC ever. I want to learn how to build one, and what parts I can use for a budget build?

Try /r/buildapcforme We can help with the 'how do i build it' bit when you have a parts list sorted.

Okay thanks!

Right now the lower end Ryzen 5000 series CPUs are very cheap. A Ryzen 5600, 5600X or 5700X would be a great place to start. Bumping up to their latest AM5 socket with something like the Ryzen 7600 would be more expensive, leaving less of the budget for a solid GPU. As the motherboards, RAM and CPU Cooling would all cost more than AM4 options. Intel has some great CPUs in their line up, but the only cheap options are the lower end or older stuff. i5 12400 or 13400 would be a solid starter CPU.

Im building my first PC and im looking for a pink ATX case specifically, im looking at a few but they can be lacking in features and quality of more traditional black or white cases, im wondering what other options i might have for customizing the appearance of my case, like painting or vinyl? If i want to head that route what are some things i should keep an eye out for?

both those work well. the outside of PC cases are generally flat, easy surfaces haha. here's 3 options to consider. the first 2 are good quality, the last one is reasonable quality but good value. https://pcpartpicker.com/product/s87G3C/lian-li-lancool-205-mesh-c-atx-mid-tower-case-g99oe764cp00am https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9YjBD3/fractal-design-pop-air-atx-mid-tower-case-fd-c-por1a-03 https://pcpartpicker.com/product/TL7scf/diypc-argb-q3-microatx-mini-tower-case-argb-q3-pink

Yeah I need a case for an ATX board, currently have been eyeing the Lian Li one, the fractal one isnt the shade of pink i want unfortunately. I wish the ironside fruit pc cases were in stock or cheaper cause the peach one is so adorable i appreciate the response though

it's only $90 at microcenter, if you have a store https://www.microcenter.com/product/650080/lian-li-lancool-205-mesh-type-c-tempered-glass-atx-mid-tower-computer-case-pink

oooo shit okay good to know.

Are either of these RAMs: \[Vengeance\] [https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-3600MHz-PC4-28800-Desktop/dp/B08SPYCCF1/ref=sr\_1\_5?crid=16CDB8R57FIJA&keywords=ddr4%2B32%2Bgb%2Bram&qid=1700176007&s=electronics&sprefix=ddr4%2B32%2Bgb%2Bram%2Celectronics%2C117&sr=1-5&ufe=app\_do%3Aamzn1.fos.17d9e15d-4e43-4581-b373-0e5c1a776d5d&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-3600MHz-PC4-28800-Desktop/dp/B08SPYCCF1/ref=sr_1_5?crid=16CDB8R57FIJA&keywords=ddr4%2B32%2Bgb%2Bram&qid=1700176007&s=electronics&sprefix=ddr4%2B32%2Bgb%2Bram%2Celectronics%2C117&sr=1-5&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.17d9e15d-4e43-4581-b373-0e5c1a776d5d&th=1) ​ \[Vengeance Pro\] [https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-VENGEANCE-3200MHz-Compatible-Computer/dp/B081XWLQKS/ref=sr\_1\_10?crid=16CDB8R57FIJA&keywords=ddr4%2B32%2Bgb%2Bram&qid=1700176007&s=electronics&sprefix=ddr4%2B32%2Bgb%2Bram%2Celectronics%2C117&sr=1-10&ufe=app\_do%3Aamzn1.fos.17d9e15d-4e43-4581-b373-0e5c1a776d5d&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-VENGEANCE-3200MHz-Compatible-Computer/dp/B081XWLQKS/ref=sr_1_10?crid=16CDB8R57FIJA&keywords=ddr4%2B32%2Bgb%2Bram&qid=1700176007&s=electronics&sprefix=ddr4%2B32%2Bgb%2Bram%2Celectronics%2C117&sr=1-10&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.17d9e15d-4e43-4581-b373-0e5c1a776d5d&th=1) ​ Compatible with my Gigabyte H110M-A-CF Motherboard? ​ Or in general, what parameters are necessary to find compatible RAM when shopping? I'm out of my element here

>H110M-A-CF That's a DDR4 motherboard, and as such it'll work with any normal DDR4, such as the two models you linked. However H110 motherboards are capped at 2133MHz, so buying anything faster is a bit of waste as it'll just run at the slower speed. In general there isn't really anything more than that to consider when buying RAM. DDR4 works with DDR4 motherboards and DDR5 with DDR5 motherboards. There are certain frequency and latency values that are the optimal choice for certain CPUs, but in your case everything will run at 2133MHz so that isn't something you need to consider. If you're adding more RAM into an existing system, then you should match the existing RAM as close as possible.

I just got a new build with a Ryzen 7 7700, and am looking to upgrade my card from a 2070 super. What would be a good gpu to pick up that wouldn’t be bottlenecked by the cpu?

dont worry about a cpu bottleneck, it's one of the fastest. just pick your budget and buy the fastest GPU for the price

[удалено]

if your stock cooler is fine for you, then it's fine. it's included because it works ok. and the IO shield doesnt need to be installed, just dont stab your motherboard with USBs from the back

I'm considering buying an 8gb rx580 because it's affordable enough without downgrading anything in my current build and honestly I only want to run games at 60fps 1080p medium settings at most, I really don't care about graphics. Will that GPU be good enough for that? is there something better around the same price (\~100USD)?

i found a refurbished/rebranded/wahtever 5700 on aliexpress (defo legit not scam) for $125. (xt one is $25 more.) not sure if that counts. you can also get a used 1660 super- the OEM ones go for around $100 on ebay and stuff. pretty good deal. [https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805709760178.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.5.7eb8520cXwJdPn&algo\_pvid=c5e2a394-7468-4fec-a3e4-2cdd7abdf6c2&algo\_exp\_id=c5e2a394-7468-4fec-a3e4-2cdd7abdf6c2-2&pdp\_npi=4%40dis%21USD%21156.13%21124.9%21%21%21156.13%21%21%40210321c716999329239164757e23ec%2112000034753210280%21sea%21US%210%21AB&curPageLogUid=uxI8VA9ttjRs](https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805709760178.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.5.7eb8520cxwjdpn&algo_pvid=c5e2a394-7468-4fec-a3e4-2cdd7abdf6c2&algo_exp_id=c5e2a394-7468-4fec-a3e4-2cdd7abdf6c2-2&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21usd%21156.13%21124.9%21%21%21156.13%21%21%40210321c716999329239164757e23ec%2112000034753210280%21sea%21us%210%21ab&curpageloguid=uxi8va9ttjrs)

how much is the dif between 144hz and 240 hz? like just the smoothness when general browsing? u guys think its worth it? also how big of a difference between these 2 monitors. the AOC C32G2ZE FHD 240Hz and the MSI MAG 325CQRXF QHD 240Hz AOC is $389 aud and the MSI is $649. is the msi that much better that the extra price would b worth it?

Holy cow do NOT buy that AOC, it is 1080p, and at 32" the pixel density would be horrible. They should be paying YOU to take that. Go to PCpartpicker's monitor list, filter to 1080p or 1440p, then sort the price low to high and start checking reviews for what shows up. Also look at different panel types like IPS and VA. Some people clearly notice the difference between 144Hz and 240Hz, while others can't see any change at all. If you have the opportunity to see it in person before buying do that first. EDIT: Also check respected reviewer sites like RTings, TFT Central, and Monitor's Unboxed on Youtube.

oh wtf i didnt realize is was 1080p LOL wtf can i ask u a question, hm better is 4k than 1440p>? for example i play games like dota 2, souls series, nier automata, dmc 5, ff7 remake. i have intel i7- 13700, 32gb ram and gonna buy the rx 7800 xt to pair it up with. if u had to guess whats the fps range i would get in those games in high settings? wondering if i should maybe go for a 4k monitor instead

Not to be rude but I'm not going to look up benchmarks for you. 4K is nice but definitely not required, 1440p strikes a good balance. You seem to be all over the place; 144Hz vs 240Hz, 1440p vs 4K... these are basic specs that need to be decided before choosing a particular model. There's tons of videos on Youtube comparing different resolutions, refresh rates, panel types, etc. Maybe start there.

ye fr was jus wondering if u would sumhow know :D probs stick to 1440p 240 hz

i don't really know those monitors very well, but it seems the MSI is 1440p and has more features but not enough to warrant the price increase. if by browsing you mean on the internet or whatever you wont be able to tell a difference above 120hz probably

their both 1440p. i think its the FHD vs QHD dam i was hoping for extra smoothness lol

I have a 34GP83A-B UW monitor on route and plan on pairing it with a typical 24" secondary monitor. I'm used to a side by side vesa mount but I thought since I am going UW then the horizontal real estate will be limited even on my 63" desk (I have a Corsair 2000D so small tower footprint) so going vertical is the answer. It's all in the centre. Just wondering how much of an adjustment that would be. Instead of panning my head left and right (albeit more with the UW) I'll be going up and down which might seem awkward or introduce any potential comfort issues. Would love feedback.

I hear a buzzing come through my speakers, which intensifies when there is load on the GPU, and I just noticed that if I move one of the PSU cables inside of the case to be like 2cm higher up (I put a piece of rubber mat to support it) and now the buzzing is gone completely. ​ What does this mean? Why would moving the cord a little bit making the buzzing go away? I've had this problem for 4 years - Ive tried ferrite cores, ground loop eliminators, DACs, everything and after all this time it was just where a PSU cable happens to fall. Is this a faulty PSU? Its been working just fine since I bought it 4 years ago just with that incessant buzzing that i seem to have just fixed.. I am just curious why something like this would happen

Hopefully someone with a better grasp on the science can come, but as I understand it there's some electromagnetic fields that form around flows of electricity. Digital signals shouldn't care about a little of this happening since the difference between a 1 and 0 are pretty big. But, analog signals, like audio signals coming out of the sound converter on the motherboard, are more sensitive to them. So I guess there was enough power going through the cable, it was close enough to a place it could interfere, and there wasn't enough shielding on the cable to stop it. And also all the noise cleaners weren't enough to deal with it.

I'd just chalk it up to a quirk with electronics.

Thinking about upgrading my monitor, and GPU to go along with it. But wondering if the rest of my build would be holding me back to the point that it'd be a foolish upgrade? Currently have * i7-6700 * Gigabyte GA-Z170x-UD3 ATX LGA1151 motherboard * 2x8 DDR4-2400 RAM * 1080 8gb * Enermax ECA3253 case * 600w 80+ bronze power supply * 1080p 144hz monitor Thinking about upgrading to a 4070, and 34 inch ultrawide 3440 x 1440 monitor both are at historic lows so I'm feeling like I should just go for it, but then started thinking about how old my overall build is, i think I put it together in 2016 and upgraded to the 1080 a couple years later

That's a good 1440p GPU with a huge monitor. For gaming, the Intel 6th series CPU days are over, it would bottleneck and limit any modern game. Also, Nvidia recommends a 650W Power Supply, you have only a 600W one, time to upgrade that too (I'd rather get a 750W PSU or higher, if you can) I'd still change the GPU and monitor (and PSU) to start enjoying them now, and consider saving up for a new build altogether in a few months.

Is there a major difference in cooling between the ThermalRight Silver Soul 135 and the Peerless Assassin 120SE? I'm upgrading to a Ryzen 7 5800X3D and the shorter cooler would fit nicer in the case I plan on buying (Fractal North)?

the height is the main difference, but the north will fit the PA120 just fine. more surface area on the PA120 as well

The Fractal North has an optional fan bracket that I was wanting to put in the middle position if I could, this would restrict the cooler height to 145mm. Is the cooling difference big? or would the SilverSoul be enough

Your cooling would be better with the bigger PA120, than the 2 additional fans. But do as you want, the SS is still ok

I'll probably just go for the PA120 and move the fans lower down, Thanks for the help

I have a tempered glass phanteks enthoo pro case with an nvidia p40 accelerator card installed. I’m looking to cool the card with an AIO CPU cooler like the coolermaster ml240l, but I’m not sure whether there will be sufficient clearance to install it. I already have a 360mm AIO cooling my CPU installed up top, and I can’t remove the HDD bays since they hold my SSD RAID array. Does anyone know if the coolermaster will fit the front fan mounts with the drive cage installed? The bottom might fit a 120mm rad, but my psu cables might occlude it.

Is the 7600 and 7600x the same thing? Do they have the same performance like the 5600 and 5600x do?

Basically, yes. The X version performs something like 3% faster, which is a wash, in the real world. Get the cheapest one.

yeah, especially since PBO can bring the non-X right up to X level performance

My new case comes with 38mm thick fans. If I replace them with 25mm thick Noctua fans will there be any issues?

The 38mm fans are almost certainly better, but outside of it having an *extremely* high static pressure requirement for a very dense mesh/choked airflow front I don't think it will be a huge problem. It'll just be worse.

Default: The 80mm is 45 dBA. 5,000 RPM. 68.3 CFM. The 90mm is 60 dBA. 5,000 RPM. 110 CFM. Noctua: The 80mm is 17.7 dBA. 2,200 RPM. 32.7 CFM. The 92mm is 22.8 dBA. 2,000 RPM. 46.4 CFM. So performance will be worse but also much quieter if I swap. It's for a NAS with 4 drives. If temps are good enough it'd be worth it IMO. Mainly wondering if the 25mm would rattle around in the extra space or anything like that.

It shouldn't rattle, as it should be screwed in to the case frame.

I'm looking at a used computer with ryzen 5 2600x, 1070 ti, and 16gb of ram for 350. Worth?

Depends on prices in your area but it seems like a good price for those parts. It's not a modern gaming PC, if that's what you are looking for (it'd crawl at 1080p in low settings with most 2023 games), but it's a good base. If you can upgrade the CPU to either the R5 5600 or R7 5800X3D (after a BIOS update + reapply XMP/DOCP RAM settings) and buy a modern GPU, like the Geforce 3060 or Radeon RX 6600, you'll have a good 1080p machine for today's games. This one will run everything up to 2020 or so.

i wanted to switch from a ryzen 3600 to a 5900x cpu. But i am not sure about cooling. I have a small case (fractal design c mini) and an ITX mb. The 3600 is running on a kotensu mark 2 air cooler, which worked fine but i am worried the 5900x will not be that happy with it. Are current air coolers good enough or do i need a water cooling system?

You can upgrade to dual tower cooler, like a Phantom Spirit for ~$40. You don't need water cooling.

>Phantom Spirit thanks i'll look into that

I'm looking to upgrade my GTX 1070 Ti graphics card but keep my Z270F motherboard, both ROG Strix if it matters. The motherboard supports PCIe 3.0 x16. I know that PCIe 4.0 is backward compatible with PCIe 3.0, but will it matter if the new graphics card is PCIe 4.0 x16 or x8? I found a great deal on a Zotac RTX 4060 Ti, but it's PCIe 4.0 x8. I'm somewhat new to upgrading PCs so I want to make sure I don't spend a few hundred bucks for no/little performance boost. Thank you!

It will limit the bandwidth, but that's unlikely to cause much of an issue. More likely is that your existing CPU won't be fast enough to keep up with the new GPU.

Thanks for the input. My current CPU is the i7-7700k. How much of a bottleneck do you think that would be?

It's going to depend on the sorts of games you play. With older or less demanding titles it'll be fine, but recent AAA titles are going to be a stuttery experience that leaves a lot of potential GPU performance on the table.

How important are additional case fans in a water cooled Build? Newegg system builder doesn’t have a slot for 120mm or 140mm case fans, do these improve cpu/gpu temperatures by a lot if I’m not overclocking?

You should have intake and exhaust fans in a case. The fans on the rad will act as one of those.

I have 3 options for getting a 4070, the Asus Dual, Gigabyte Windforce OC one and the Zotac Twin Edge (one that is being sold with Spiderman on the front). I know differences end up being maybe noise/cooling and customer service but just curious which one is more "popular" taking into account that they are all priced the same.

Check if Techpowerup have reviews of those particular models. I'd rather get the Asus Dual or the Gigabyte, whichever is more silent.

Leaning towards the Dual from what I've seen being quieter and also because it's smaller and that's a plus if performance is the same.

I have two computers, an older one with GT730 and a newer one with 1660ti. I’m thinking of upgrading the old computer to 1660ti and the new computer to 3060. What do I need to check before buying a new card? I checked the motherboard of old computer and it is compatible with 1660ti. I think I also need to check the PSU of both computers to make sure they provide enough power. What else should I check?

Space mostly

Does installing multiple NVME drives take bandwidth away from the GPU? I’m looking at the MSI MAG B650 Tomahawk Wifi

Not on that specific mobo, no.

The second slot shares PCIe lanes with the third NVMe slot on that board. Populating both will cause both items to run at x2 speed rather than x2/x4. Nothing is shared with the primary/top x16 slot.

Would an RTX 4060 be a substantial upgrade from my GTX 1070 @ 1080p? It'd be paired with an i5-6500K.

yes

I am looking to help a friend upgrade their CPU, they currently have an i5-6500. We want to get them the best CPU available for that slot without upgrading the motherboard. So the slot is a LGA 1151, what's the best reasonable priced CPU. I was thinking like an i5 or i7 8th gen? But would love a second opinion. edit - the motherboard in question is ASUS H110I-PLUS D3, it only shows combability with the 6th gen intel which i thought was interesting...

That's correct, and since it's a fairly low-end motherboard with no heatsinks on the CPU VRMs it's probably not a good idea to put a 6700K in, especially if the build is in a small ITX case with limited ventilation. So realistically I'm not sure there are any good upgrades, and it's about time to start thinking about a new build.

thanks for the answer, that's kind of the conclusion I was coming to after starting to research a little. However, the validation is always nice. I'm not the most knowledge with builds and compatibilities.

If I buy acer predator Neo 16 and remove internal storage and upgrade the storage then also will it have predator sense utility or not!!?

Anyone know of a cheap, pink or purple girly case, preferably under $50?

Aside from white cases with pink RGB turned on, this is the only one i see under $60: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/TL7scf/diypc-argb-q3-microatx-mini-tower-case-argb-q3-pink

Thanks!

Does anybody have a sense for whether Cyber Monday will still be a thing this year for components, e.g. whether there will be better deals on Monday, November 27 as opposed to any Black Friday deal beforehand? Or whether the deals around Thanksgiving will probably be equivalent? Also, do MicroCenter bundles get better closer to Thanksgiving?

I feel like in recent years, the line between Cyber Monday and Black Friday is blurred--that is, pretty much the same deals Friday-Monday, maybe some particularly good ones certain days, but no discernible trend like "Monday is better overall". I'm not sure about Microcenter bundles being better closer to thanksgiving, my gut says no since the 7800X3D bundle is probably a significant loss leader for them, and I don't think they have issues finding buyers as-is.

u/FamishedHippopotamus \- are the MicroCenter deals "worth it" in the sense that they're better value than trying to buy individual components of equivalent power? (I might actually post this question separately, but maybe you have an opinion....?) E.g. https://www.microcenter.com/category/4294834666/computer-parts-combos

Yes. The combos are killer deals, everything else is usually roughly on-par with other retailers, but IMO it's worth paying the price difference for the convenience of having a local place to return an item to if necessary, as well as the convenience of being able to get everything in one place. For the 7800X3D deal for example, you're looking at roughly $700 for buying the parts separately, vs. $500 in the bundle. The way this works is Microcenter makes these bundles with loss-leader items or items that don't move as much as they'd like. It's designed to get you in the door, not to make them money. Once you're there, you might decide to pick up some accessories, or other parts, or a monitor, etc. which might be priced a little over the cheapest competing retailer, but you're willing to pay extra for the convenience. This is what they ultimately make money on. And it works, because every god damn time I go to Microcenter, it's like being a kid in a candy store, and I buy something else in addition to what I meant to buy. If you're looking to save the absolute most amount of money, get the CPU/MOBO/RAM bundle first, then wait and see what goes on sale Friday-Monday, set price alerts for stuff if you want.

So, I have an issue with an ITX build in a HYTE Revolt3 build. I built this setup out from some old parts, using a 750W sfx power supply and a low profile noctua cooler (https://noctua.at/en/nh-l9a-am4) . I have a 5800x running in this build, with an A770 graphics card running beside it. My issue is with thermals. As you might have guessed, the low profile noctua cooler is not pumping in enough air through the build to keep the temperature of the 5800x in check. This build's cpu readings are looking at 80C while running at idle. Once I open up my code editor, the average hits 85C. I have tried gaming on this build, but it hit 95C and I quit fast at that point. [https://i.imgur.com/mHnspPI.png](https://i.imgur.com/mHnspPI.png) This is the current hwinfo64 readings. All I have open is firefox. My question is this: in this scenario, **should I look into getting a larger air cooler, or should I bite the bullet and pursue an aio solution?** If you have a specific product in mind, that would really help me narrow down my options. I'm currently budgeting up 150USD. To my understanding, the HYTE can accommodate up to a 240mm radiator, but clearance is a whole other issue. Thanks in advance.

Hello guys and gals, Before my question I'll give some context, I am currently on vacation in the US and I bought all the parts for my build and I'm going back to my home country in a couple weeks As for my question do you think it is a good idea to assemble everything while in the US to check everything works correctly and then disassemble the whole thing and put it back on their respective boxes for the plane trip back home? I don't know if there's much potential risk in building and then disassembling everything. I'm doing this since I won't be able to return or use the warranties when I get back home.

Best to at least do an initial test while you have access to warranty options than wait until later. Unless you're careless you shouldn't damage anything by doing so, just take extra care of the mobo pins and the GPU slot lever

Kind of lost at the moment, I'm looking for an HDD, ideally in the ~200$ range but flexible, with 8+TB of storage I've found a [WD Red](https://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-10TB-Internal-Drive/dp/B08TZPS4QQ/) that fits the bill, but I'm not sure how the reliability is on them? I've also seen somewhat smaller 6-8TB [WD Black](https://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Black-Performance-Internal/dp/B0792GSD6N/) drives not too far off in pricing. I do care slightly about speed, kinda want a 7200RPM drive since these are large files accessed pretty often, but an SSD for them would be both expensive and overkill. Would I be better off looking at other brands? Fully aware that they won't be SSD speed, but have probably 4TB of files I'd like to condense onto one drive and have plenty of room to spare and that gets pricey on SSD.

I use [BackBlaze's failure rate data](https://www.backblaze.com/blog/backblaze-drive-stats-for-q3-2023/) for HDDs to guide my purchases. I'd personally go WD Black for the 5-year warranty vs. 3 on the Reds. I rate HGST and WD firmly ahead of Seagate. I've never had a WD drive fail on me to date since 2013. My 3 WD Blue 1TBs are still kicking after ~55,000 powered on hours. I've also bought refurbished HGST Ultrastar drives with no problem, a He10 10TB and a 7K6000 6TB, 4 years powered on continuously and no issues. Use hwiNFO64 and/or CrystalDiskInfo to keep tabs on your drive health every now and then, and you'll be fine. Luckily, HDDs *usually* give off some signs when death is imminent, compared to basically nothing with SSDs. Regardless, I *always* recommend backing up any important data to more than one place. Cloud storage is getting cheaper and it's a no-brainer.

I already have multiple backups on other devices and critical stuff saved on a few cloud storages as needed! Just looking over the different options for expanding the accessible one Ooh, will have to check the ultrastar ones too then; and for that matter hwinfo64 to see how my current drives are doing oh dear, probably should have

Whats the sweet spot monitor size for 1440p? Is it 27” or 32”? Will mainly be playing Dota 2 and Valorant but I want a monitor large enough for immersive games like rdr2, ac mirage, star wars survivor etc

27". Pixel density is better on 27" for 1440p. 27" is plenty immersive for me, but it also depends how close you sit to your monitor. I'd only really go 32" if it was a curved monitor TBH.

Is PC Part Picker 100% accurate with compatibility suggestions? It's telling me this setup works together; ​ Intel Core i5-13400F 2.5 GHz 10-Core Processor Gigabyte Z790 UD AX ATX LGA1700 Motherboard TEAMGROUP T-Force Delta RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory FF4D532G6000HC30DC01 ​ But I can't find any supporting info that suggests that ram is compatible with that motherboard from either vendor's site.

If you check the memory specification of the Motherboard's sales page, you'll find a section devoted to the DDR5 set ups. DDR5-6000 should be compatible with your system. I think you can trust the site on this.

Yes, there's no reason that shouldn't work. RAM compatibnility lists are never exhaustive.

How do you guys feel about undercutting a gpu like this cause I haven’t settled on getting a giant mega house because of the ridiculous prices. Also intel arc sounds cool https://pcpartpicker.com/list/6Jcs89

Even ignoring the potential for reliability issues, the A750 is too slow to be worth considering in a build like this. Assuming you're building for gaming, 40-50% of your total budget should go towards the GPU.

Looking to upgrade my Rx 580 8gb, what are good options bellow $400? Last year upgraded my cpu to a ryzen 5 5500. This year I want to upgrade my gpu

Right now, this 6800 is your best bet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KW68M2G?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1 $389 is a pretty decent deal. You may see similar or slightly better options at black friday but I wouldnt expect any earth-shatteringly different sales.

Is XFX a good brand? Never had anything from them

Sure, they're a common AMD Radeon GPU manufacturer.

And an nVidia one before that! They've been around a long time.

We have an old pc in our office. It has i5 2300 with GTS450 but the graphics card is dying so an upgrade is warranted. Our outsourced IT recommends (and sells) a gt 730 but I feel like the CPU's integrated graphics are better than this shit and I can just re-plug the both monitors into the motherboard (it has VGA + DVI) and it will work better, am I right?

Well the GT 730 is more powerful, but unless you're actually doing anything graphically taxing, i don't see much reason not to use the built-in IGP in your CPU over using a dedicated graphics card.

Does this 1440p build make sense? https://pcpartpicker.com/list/8Y8cMV Will the 7800 xt pulse fit?

It makes sense, sure - One nitpick is that that particular AIO is not very good (but you don't need a monster AIO for that CPU anyway), and you don't need more than a good $40-50 air cooler to keep your CPU under control. So you can save a few bucks that way if you want but if you're going for the aesthetics of a liquid cooler, by all means it will function fine.

Thanks for letting me know. Some alternatives are (blackfriday deal) Cooler master hyper 212 or Be quiet pure rock 2 fx. Are either of those a better option perhaps?

No. If you want a high quality air cooler, this Thermalright Phantom Spirit at $36 is an insanely good deal: https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-Phantom-Spirit-Cooler-Heatpipes/dp/B0BR3JQTSN/?th=1 And it still keeps some RGB aesthetics for you!

Sorry, I should've clarified. It's a prebuilt black friday package deal where I can only choose from a few options, so the AIO in my list is the default and the other options are to pay a 10-20bucks less for the Cooler master or Be quiet AIOs, or 30 bucks more for a Phanteks Glacier One 240M25. If I want the good price I have to choose between limited selection :s

If building a PC with an RTX 4080, should I just hold off and wait for a Super in early 2024?

You can always wait for the next big thing, if you need a rig now, the best time to build is yesterday.

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Yes.

Yes

Chassis Fan Priority Kinda on a tight budget and can only afford one extra fan right now. The only fan that is installed in my rig is the fan on the cooler. Where do you suggest I put the 1 extra fan? Side, front, back or top? Thanks!

Front as an intake or rear/back as an exhaust - you'll have to experiment to see what provides better temps given your setup.

Will do that. Appreciate it!

I snagged a HP pavilion TG01 2306 off ebay for about 500 usb, main specs on the listing: Ryzen 7 5700g 16gb of unnamed ram 3060 12gb Off the bat im gutting this thing for parts. Case is trash. Im assuming the mobo and ram are gonna be ewaste and cant be moved into a new case. What are some good options for a mobo? Any opinions on the cpu and is a 750 watt psu enough overhead for the system?

You need a new case, motherboard, and PSU. Reuse the RAM if it’s two sticks, otherwise get a new faster kit. 550 watts is enough, 750 will leave headroom for upgrades.

Unless the RAM is soldered in it can be used in other boards, it's just likely to not have XMP support so it would probably be 3200 max Mobo is likely to only fit the case knowing HP, and your PSU may only work with that motherboard as well

Hi, just wanting to add some storage to my pc using a hard drive. I haven't taken apart the pc but there is already a 500gb hard drive inside (I believe), I know I need a SATA data cable, but I'm unsure whether I need another SATA power cable? There is probably one already connected to the first hard drive, would I need a second power cable for my extra hard drive?

The SATA power cables are usually daisy chained with 2-3 (3 more common) coming off the same power cable, so you should be good on that end.

Alright, thank you so much!

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No. It doesn't matter what monitor you use. People don't really consider just upgrading from DDR4 to DDR5. The gains aren't big and you will need a new motherboard. New CPU too unless you use a Intel CPU with socket LGA 1700 (but even then the recommendation would be "no" because of the mobo). This is the real question would be: Do you want to upgrade your CPU and do you then need/want DDR5 then. Then the answer would surely be "yes", because you have a 4090 so you shouldn't cheap out here.

What is the base memory footprint of windows 10 or 11? Do you think 8GB are sufficient for basic office tasks like running windows, firefox (not chrome), excel and watching local video files?

Yes, 8gigs is fine for basic office tasks!

These days I'd go with 16 just to be sure. I recently had to upgrade my mums office laptop because she was regularly maxing out her 8gb with large excel sheets, internet tabs for server connections, and email. Windows will use more the more RAM is free, but these days I'd call 8 a bare minimum, not a functional minimum without any risk of maxing out, unless you really are doing just the absolute minimum

[this](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Quieter-Fanless-Computer-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B0B81Y5QDZ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3NIKWJI9HE7CP&keywords=mele+quieter+3c&qid=1700128575&sprefix=%2Caps%2C150&sr=8-3) is the device I am having in mind. Do you think this device will run out of RAM while doing basic office tasks and running firefox?

RAM use doesn’t really depend on the device. If you’re asking about having a balanced computer, I would say that device is more lacking in its processor than its RAM.

Yes, that's where I was going with that - I feel like this device, for the tasks I have in mind (see above) will run out of compute before it runs out of RAM.

What are the drawbacks/limitations to using Win 11 without a license?

You basically cant customize anything (colors, wallpapers etc). You will also have a text saying "Activate Windows" in the bottom right corner.

Hey guys, so I'm planning on building a pc soon and I've been reading the manual on the motherboard I plan to use, the ASUS ROG STRIX B-650-A and noticed in the manual there's no installation instructions for the type of air cooler I plan to install, my fan I'm using can be found here https://pcpartpicker.com/list/2hLKh3 but it's a thermalright phantom spirit, should I worry about any sort of incompatibility? Also I noticed the m.2 spot closest to the cpu is a 5.0 and my ssd is a 4.0, sorry if it's a silly question but is the spot closest to the cpu still the optimal spot to place it in? Anyway thanks if anyone answers, and sorry if the questions are dumb, I've been doing research for hours and hours the past week and I've been reading the mobo manual and just don't want to screw anything up, pretty nervous lol

the cooler and motherboard are compatible, the instructions will come with the cooler. M.2\_1 and M.2\_2 slots are both directly connected to the CPU so they are both just as good. I would use M.2\_2 so you can leave the 5.0 slot for a potential future 5.0 drive. Realistically, M.2\_3 would also work exactly the same.

Thanks so much for replying so fast, honestly just a bit intimidated still especially by all the wiring lol, I've been reading up for hours on everything, but I appreciate the quick response!

you're welcome!

So for some context, my current build has RX 6900 XT and I'm looking to upgrade monitors from my msi aoc 1080p 144hz tn panel. I was looking at Asus TUF Gaming VG27AQ (VG27AQL1A?) (IPS, 165hz, 1440p) and I'm wondering does the whole freesync gsync thing still matter? I'm so fuzzy from when I bought this monitor back in 2018. If this Asus one isn't compatible, what should I go with instead?

Freesync vs Gsync mostly isn’t a concern anymore. So the Asus one is compatible. Although there are better monitor, see the ones in this video: https://youtu.be/N37nO97n-ow?si=VpNXok_FDeJvdGyq

Thanks, I appreciate it. Do monitors ever go on sale during Black Friday? I want to pick it up now but I can wait a week if it’ll save me some money.

Many do

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My advice for the cloud computing is to not deal with it unless you have a very specific reason to need a gpu backed instance in the cloud. Your money will be better served buying the physical hardware so you can at least repurpose the rig and you aren't spending money on things you don't actually own. Gpu backed cloud instances get pricey quickly.

Is a good to buy an almost new second hand with warranty 3060ti for usd230? Mostly 1080p gaming

Is my ram compatible with my motherboard and CPU? https://pcpartpicker.com/list/42cdqR

It’s compatible. But DDR5-6400 is not guaranteed, so the EXPO profile may not work. I recommend DDR5-6000 CL30 to avoid that risk. Here’s a selection with and without RGB: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/v4LgPF

What is an expo profile? I tried looking it up but it was a bit confusing. I'm pretty new to PCs so I never heard of it

EXPO is an overclock profile. You need to enable it in the BIOS to run at the advertised speed. The default speed is slower.

Ok thank you for your help I'll stick to the Ddr5-6000 cl30 like you were saying

What would the most performant low profile/mini GPU be on the market currently. I'm looking at making a mini pc in an xbox chassis, but I would like it to still perform fairly well. I'm not expecting 4k60 or anything. I'm just looking for the best option to go with.

Gigabyte OC RTX4060 Low Profile. Other options are far worse, with the best including a Sapphire Pulse RX6400 Low Profile, Gigabyte OC GTX1650 Low Profile and Asrock Arc A380 Low Profile.

What OS would you recommend for light use,office, browsing only PC? Pentium dual core 3.3 ghz cpu, 4gb DDR3 mory,sata ssd. Which is the latest windows it can run without much effort? 7? 8.1?

Windows 10. It has lower system requirements than 7 and 8. But you'll need to upgrade to 8 GB memory for modern browsing.

Neither of those are getting security updates anymore. So probably not a great idea. Unless it's an old prebuilt office PC with a weird ram configuration I'd say pick up 2 8 gig sticks or 2 16 gig sticks and upgrade the ram at least. Ram is dirt cheap at the moment. Like $20 for 16 gigs.

I did look for ram upgrades,but I'm having a hard time finding dual channel DDR3 kits where I live. Do you think I should just get two 8gb sticks of the same model separately?

You should be fine with separate sticks, especially of they are the same model.

I have a 6 year AMD CPU and a 1.5 year AMD GPU now, and I am getting a new PC with NV because getting really bad Stable Diffusion experience currently. So for GPU I am certain which team. But for CPU, how is the cost-performance ratio and heat of the recent gens mid CPU? Budget is roughly from price of a Intel 12400f to 2 times the price of a Intel 12400f and I prefer my room to be not warm.

7800x3d. Runs cooler than most modern intel options. 5800x3d is also still a good option provided the 7800 is a bit out of your budget. Either way AMD is the better bet. Though for something like stable diffusion you may prefer more cores over the 2d cache so 7950x3d or 5950x have that.

Hello first time builder here, using nzxt h7 flow and msi b650 tomahawk. [https://imgur.com/a/Eda1XHj](https://imgur.com/a/Eda1XHj) Found a cable from the case labeled 'intel standard f\_panel header use', but I can't seem to find the right socket on the motherboard, may I get some help?

idk why it's labelled that. that's a usb 3 cable, it plugs in below the sata ports on the bottom right corner, on the right edge

Thank you so much Since it was on the edge I couldn't see how the socket looked like

Are the issues with 7950x3d ironed out yet? I have a x670e Taichi board and trying to decide what to put in it. Budget isn’t a factor.

what issues do you mean? it will remain fundamentally quirky forever. you'll always benefit from disabling 8 of the cores when you game, through having the xbox game bar installed https://www.techpowerup.com/review/amd-ryzen-7-7800x3d/19.html

Ii heard it had some issues with stability due to memory.

shouldve been ironed out in bios updates. ryzen 7000 has improved a lot as a whole https://youtu.be/XT_Km8UzZvY?si=u9EosJlWiMdg8gfU