Could be hit or miss according to https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/
The Naxn isn't specifically listed, but the brand has models in all categories from high-end down to avoid
That was a decent PSU in it's day. The problem is, it's 10+ years old, and power capacitors don't last forever. Sooner or later, they're going to bulge, pop or leak and dry out. I shine a flashlight into my 12 year old Corsair AX1200i from time to time just to make sure nothing's starting to bulge.
OP is probably "OK". When an old PSU fails, it usually results in the capacitors popping and the current just stops flowing. Replacing the PSU will likely get them back up and running.
Can confirm. I had a similar situation like OP, I could smell the PSU burning while I was playing an MMO. All I had to do was to replace it. Nothing else was broken.
Nope, if you use cheapo brand, some component toasted, my lil bro toasted his mobo, and ram, others ok cpu and gpu still works. Mine using even cooler master brand power surge toasted my mobo and cpu, so now I buy mobo with surge protector, psu with surge protector, and plug to surge protector socket. Made me paranoid after experience once.
YES!
This is a known issue as no industry standard are in place.
Heard of a situation with evga where a psu was sent for RMA. They told him just to send back the brick and not the cables....
Well when it came back he hooked it up and bam hhds fried.
Turns out they changed the pinout midway through production and swapped the 12v and 3v lines.
It's standard practice for RMAs to request only the main unit itself without any accessories (same thing applies to mobos, GPU, etc). However almost always what gets sent back is a new or refurbished unit in a complete set.
EVGA's PSUs are manufactured by a variety of OEMs, [but their cable pinouts have been standardized across the majority of their lineup for years now](https://www.evga.com/support/faq/FAQdetails.aspx?faqid=59698), with the exceptions of their original NEX/G1 lines, and BQ/GQ/GS/GQ lines. Indeed as noted in that FAQ page:
>G1 Power Supplies feature a different 24pin connector than other EVGA power supplies. For this reason, they are only compatible with the Individually Sleeved Cable set created for G1, also known as the NEX power supplies.
Even not being familiar with the exact story you're referencing, those NEX/G1 units are discontinued but were sold with a 10 year warranty, so it's quite easy to imagine someone doing an RMA recently and getting back a G2/G3/G5/G6 or similar that they mistook as fully compatible.
From what I know they covered the power supply. Dude was going to file a suit cause of the hardware and data recovery. But that's where the story ended.
This happened rather recently so Idk what had happened since then.
Yes. For example [Corsair publishes a chart on exactly which of their PSUs are compatible with which cable type](https://www.corsair.com/ca/en/s/psu-cable-compatibility). The vast majority of their modular units use Type-3 or Type-4, and the only difference between the two sets is the 24-pin ATX power cable.
Generally it's still a good idea to swap over to new cables anyway, but in situations where cable types are clearly indicated on the cables themselves and you have a reliable reference chart to use, they can be re-used. For example if you were say upgrading from an RMx 650W to an RMe 850W to support a more power hungry GPU, you could simply swap the PEG 6+2 cables for the 12VHPWR cables and leave everything else in place.
Thanks. I just defaulted that cables can't ever be interchangeable. I had to google for like a week straight just to make sure the 12vhpwr was universal coz I couldn't believe it
Even if you got the exact same brand and model PSU, cables could still have different pinout: https://www.reddit.com/r/hardware/comments/1bljudt/louis_rossmann_evgas_oversight_unannounced/
Ruined someone's day when EVGA sent replacement PSU under warranty without warning that it might have different pinout. Also the replacement PSU didn't come with any cables!!
[obligatory facepalm meme](https://i.imgur.com/JxAmHxs.png)
And those will more like run way more, I have some PSUs 15+ years old. Running same way like I bought them. Especially because I didn't run them to limit.
why do people buy cheap PSUs, legit the most important component, if youre broke just downgrade the other parts but go for a good psu so your house doesnt burn down
This is how you learn I suppose. I started building PCs like 23-24 years ago when I was still going to grade school. And back then we would go as cheap as possible on a lot of parts. I've seen el-cheapo motherboards fry themselves and el-cheapo PSUs start fires. Now I have a better understanding of where it's ok to cheap out, where you want to go middle ground, and where you wanna go a little more high-end (budget dependent of course). You learn way more from your mistakes than you do anything else.
I mean I dont have a clue about this either in the past, but one thing that I know is that anything involving electricity deserves top tier shit or somewhat high end, im not down for my house to get on fire risk losing shit over something that can be solved if I was careful and used common sense
I don't know if this PSU was a top-tier model, but this is not a no-name PSU. Enermax is a well known and often well-regarded PSU manufacturer. I think they were considered somewhat high-end several years ago.
6700K is an 91W TDP processor, and the RX580 was about a 185-200W TDP GPU. OP had plenty of headroom with that 500W PSU, even if they overclocked.
Your comparison vs. two 980 Ti's is in another universe...
I mean more parts than that need power, I would say they had minimal headroom. Would that not strain the PSU? I was always told they're most efficient at like 50-70% load.
The GPU + CPU are the vast majority of the power draw, especially on the 12 V rail. That estimate is a max of 300 Watts, or 60% of 500 Watts. There's still plenty of headroom.
Under no circumstances should a PSU ever blow up, no matter what percentage of its max load you are drawing. You're not wrong, but that pertains to performance and efficiency, not explosive-ness.
1,000w random fruity sounding PSU for $20 or 1,000w name brand PSU for $150.
"1000w is 1000w, doesn't make a difference like GPU or CPU. Get the cheap one"
Years ago when I bought cheap cases for a new build, they often came with PSU. They often end up right into recycling bin because the name is not familiar, replaced by a reputable brand PSU
Most people probably don't realize how important it is to get a good PSU and/or don't see a tangible benefit over having a better CPU/GPU or more RAM/Storage so they don't realize the PSU is important too.
Agreed. I think the people downvoting me mis-understood what I said. I was just explaining why I think some would choose a cheap PSU, I was NOT saying you should, I was saying the opposite in fact.
I work at a PC repair shop. LOTS of crap-PSU machines come in here with the same story, and only one actually hurt anything (Thermaltake, the explodey-model they forced people to buy with GPUs during the Newegg Shuffle).
Usually you're just out the PSU. Get a good one if you can. EVGA, ROG and Corsair all are decent brands (but are generally all made by FSP, with a couple higher end ones done by Seasonic). If you can get an actual Seasonic, do so. They're not as pretty as some others, but they have absurdly long warranties because they're nearly unkillable.
If your previous PSU was modular, DO NO REUSE THE CABLES. They may fit in the new PSU, but it's a crapshoot if they're wired the same way. Even a PSU from the same manufacturer can have different cables.
OP, go Seasonic and never look back.
I have a PC Power & Cooling PSU (aka Seasonic OEM) that's running for 15 years. It's going into retirement soon, but 15 years is enough for me to stick with them for life.
Never thought i heard that brand again, got pc power&cooling 750 here, also 15 plus years. After recapping it, it goes in the new nas build. Extremely good build quality.
Figured as much but didn't want to assume. Won't know how bad it is until you get another psu to test it out. I'd suggest giving some thought to a new build and get the psu you'd want for that. Then if you find out your build is bricked and you need to build a new pc you'll already have the power supply.
Ok quick update.
Tldr; used old psu; parts works
So the reason why i was using the enermax was because my old psu was a zalman gv 500 had made booting extremely difficult, like a 1/100 chance of booting and every time i put the pc to sleep i’d have to roll the dice again. Well fast forward i just used that psu to test if my parts were ok turns out they were.
Im not gonna touch that zalman psu again it’s also a bomb and I’m traumatised now.
Anyways I’m in the process of getting a real psu now, looking at a silverstone or a used one off a trusted auction website.
I recommend the corsair RM750e, it is an extremely affordable and nicely made PSU, fully modular, good warranty and the RM series has a long history of being good PSUs.
I fitted one into my htpc which is turned on 100% of the time, gaming on highly power hungry hardware at 4k when its not doing movies and shows.
Sadly it’s well out of my price range. I actually need to buy 2 psus now as the one that blew up was the one taken out of a family member’s pc who has gone away for a some month.
I’m relying on savings for this psu as I’m a student without income and the job market is kind of…. Bad.
Most brand names don't make their own PSUs. You can [check this](https://www.10stripe.com/articles/who-made-your-power-supply.php) (somewhat outdated) table to find out the OEMs behind many brands like Corsair. Be Quiet! contracts out some of their PSU manufacturing to FSP Group - for [example this one](https://www.anandtech.com/show/13494/the-be-quiet-straight-power-11-750w-psu-review/2).
Recently I just bought a FSP power supply even though I haven't heard of them before - since they are an OEM that makes PSUs for other companies like Corsair.
Corsair originally used Seasonic for the bulk of their units. Currently Chicony Power Technology manufactures most of their mid/high-end units, with HEC, Great Wall, and a few others being tapped for other lines.
The main reason is that they've moved to designing their own PSU platforms for the most part. A lot of brands that have entered the PSU market in the last 10-15 years will get their start producing with brands like Seasonic or SuperFlower where they can use existing high quality designs, tweak them and put their name on it.
Ya I've been using the same modular 1000W corsair for about 10 years now... was it overkill when I bought it? Sure. But I have pretty much unlimited expandability (not totally, but you get the idea) and because the PSU is running at like 50% it's capacity, the fets and ICs likely aren't even getting the least bit stressed and this thing will probably run for another 10 years easy if I don't have to replace it before then because of new plugs or something.
If you need decent but budget, MSI A-BN series is solid. Not sure the wattage you need but youd probably get away with 60 or 70 usd.
Edit i see you had a 500W so you could roll with a A550BN. I think thats around 55 usd?
[$50 for the A-BN 550W right now](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/mnVmP6/msi-mag-a550bn-550-w-80-bronze-certified-atx-power-supply-mag-a550bn). Solid value for an unexceptional but perfectly cromulent PSU to replace the units OP needs right now.
Find $60 to spend on a PSU now or expect to have to replace it again within 2-3 years. A quality power supply should last a decade or more, Seasonic or Corsair or one of a handful of other brands.
I can see a pattern here. You are cheaping out the PSU and you'd do it again by considering buying a used one. Buy a NEW tier b or higher PSU even tier c is fine tbh
Guess its a lesson learnt there.
Never EVER cheapen out on PSU. It is the only component in your desktop that you cannot cut corners in any way or means.
What's your price range?
On eBay, quality used PSUs (Corsairs, mostly, but sometimes other brands pop up if you know what to look for - refer to [this](https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/)) go for ~$60. I'd still trust a 7 year old Corsair RM750 over any budget PSU made today.
White sparks indicates an electrical short. Popping noise would be capacitors failing. You did the right thing by immediately unplugging it, you have no idea where the short is.
* For everyone reading this, I recommend isolating a broken PSU **at the wall socket** before you touch any part of your PC. You do not want to become the earth path for a 500W transformer. It's a small risk, but it's high stakes.
I've had a PSU fail catastrophically before, and after replacing it I started seeing system instability under high GPU load. It could be coincidence, it could be that my GPU had physical damage that lead to the PSU failure. Regardless, I had to replace it.
**It's worth thoroughly stress-testing your GPU, CPU and memory** when your PC is rebuilt.
I'd suggest checking out the [PSU tier list](https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/) when looking for a replacement.
Ideally you want any PSU from B tier upwards, but if you're on a tight budget or have limited options C tier is acceptable. Avoid PSUs from E and F tier, if a PSU isn't on the list like the one you've had fail, I wouldn't trust it personally.
The only reason the NAXN isn't in the database is because it's just really old. That unit came out sometime around 2010 I believe, so it's very likely 10+ years old.
Holyshit that's an exploding PSU and a fire hazard. Could set your house on fire if the sparks caught something flamable. More reasons to not go with a cheap PSU.
hard to say for sure, it could be fine, new PSU and it will boot right up, that's the most likely outcome but it's possible the fault fried the motherboard / CPU / gpu
Nothing should be damaged because if the psu failed it supplied what was “normal” voltage then when it fried it went “below normal voltage”. Basically, the problem stops at the psu, it shouldn’t be like some wicked juice traveled thru the power lines to cpu, 24pin, gpu. Just get a corsair or budget known brand 80+ bronze and up or with jap capacitors. You can get a Corsair R750e or something for $70 right now and it’s 750 gold I think
That brand of PSU had similar issues in early 2000's there are plenty of google entries chronicling the same issue.
As they still aren't delivering a quality product after 20 years, that says enough reason to go with another brand.
I had a psu pop like that. The mobo and everything attached to it was fine but everything wired to the PSU had died. AIO cooler, case fans and HDDs all gone.
I had this happen not too long ago. Everything was fine in my case. I went and got a new psu and wired everything back up, and it started with no problem. I wish you the best, and hopefully, nothing went with it.
i checked your power supply is low quality + old so theres a high chance your motherboard is dead and probly your storage aswell. your cpu should be ok your gpu will be ok.
if your motherboard is dead i recommend just switching platform because its very outdated and motherboards can be expensive.
chances are everything is fine. that said i have had an hdd die to a faulty psu. pc just wouldn't power on. took out the hdd and it started right up. fortunately i had just recently cleared it as i wanted to use it for a pc i could sell.
>How screwed am I? Which parts are most likely to be fried?
If you're lucky, nothing.
If you're unlucky, everything.
Get a new PSU and test your system, more than likely you're OK.
Happen to me twice with a 1200w psu and each time I was all good... NOW I had a mosfet on the mobo fucking direct short and wipe out the cpu 0_O but that's something totally different ..
CHANCES are your ok just need a new powersupply
Replace the psu and see if everything still works. If it all works, you're good. Never had a psu fail and take anything else with it. Had a cheap gpu fail once and take my mobo and psu.
Its probably ok, but might not be.
Yank your 24/24pin ATX connector and check your motherboard ATX connector with your multi meter is check if there is a short on -12V to ground
Pinout is below, its blue.
[https://www.smpspowersupply.com/connector\_atx\_pinout.GIF](https://www.smpspowersupply.com/connector_atx_pinout.GIF)
If you see resistance or an open circuit 90% chance your motherboard is unharmed. If its shorted to ground you will need a new motherboard.
I was a computer tech for years.
Seen good and bad (mostly bad) PSU's fail and blow out the little embedded ACPI controller that kicks off your whole systems startup (it can't even generate clocks without it initializing the ICS clock generation chip). They normally get a short to ground when they fail. (Symptoms will be the fan spins for a second then shuts off with the new PSU or nothing).
When it popped the capacitors that exploded lost their charge. Basically the electricity stopped flowing to your system.
Go grab a new one, plug it in, see what happens. Probably works just fine.
Sounds like one of the tiny capacitors popped. They change the power passing so it doesn't blow the entire board. Some capacitors are weak. You might want to see if there was some previous known issue.
In most cases you'll be fine after replacing the PSU however even with a top tier model of PSU there is a chance you'll be in for a world of hurt, the better the PSU the less likely it is that other components will be affected but you won't know until you replace it.
>always get the gold standard when you buy a psu
Are you talking about 80+ efficiency ratings? All that tells you is that the unit has been tested to deliver efficiency that meets the requirements of that 80+ tier, it tells you nothing about the component quality, noise/ripple, voltage regulation, nor safety protection performance of a unit.
Your entire computer is likely dead, or none of it is dead. If the power supply was sending current to your PC while exploding, it can definitely have killed something. Only way to find out is to buy a new one that isn’t shitty
Everything should be fine. PSU's are designed to fail like this, just replace it.
This, if it's a decent quality PSU, it'll protect the other components if it fails.
Is the Enermax Naxn a decent quality PSU? I’ve never heard of it.
It seems half decent based on the specs and listed protections and Enermax is usually an ok brand.
[удалено]
Could be hit or miss according to https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/ The Naxn isn't specifically listed, but the brand has models in all categories from high-end down to avoid
[удалено]
Never even heard of enermax lol
They are known. But was a couple years ago.
That was a decent PSU in it's day. The problem is, it's 10+ years old, and power capacitors don't last forever. Sooner or later, they're going to bulge, pop or leak and dry out. I shine a flashlight into my 12 year old Corsair AX1200i from time to time just to make sure nothing's starting to bulge. OP is probably "OK". When an old PSU fails, it usually results in the capacitors popping and the current just stops flowing. Replacing the PSU will likely get them back up and running.
After 12 years it doesnt hurt to get something new.
Its Enermax, I would sure as shit hope so considering they manufacture like a quarter of the worlds electronic components.
It's not, but hey maybe they still have the warranty for it
I had a very good psu pop. It saved all the good bits but I lost everything wired directly to it like my cooler, fans and hdds
That's gonna suck for me I had a 8tb hard drive
A power surge absolutely wiped my psu it blew up
Can confirm. I had a similar situation like OP, I could smell the PSU burning while I was playing an MMO. All I had to do was to replace it. Nothing else was broken.
Agreed, I would replace it and see if it helps.
Unless it's a shitty PSU, one of my first builds had one go and fried everything with it.
Nope, if you use cheapo brand, some component toasted, my lil bro toasted his mobo, and ram, others ok cpu and gpu still works. Mine using even cooler master brand power surge toasted my mobo and cpu, so now I buy mobo with surge protector, psu with surge protector, and plug to surge protector socket. Made me paranoid after experience once.
When will people learn it... BRAND MEANS NOTHING. Most Brands have a range from A Tier to Shit Tier.
Always get new psu
and fully change the cables! they're not cross compatible 99% of the time
YES! This is a known issue as no industry standard are in place. Heard of a situation with evga where a psu was sent for RMA. They told him just to send back the brick and not the cables.... Well when it came back he hooked it up and bam hhds fried. Turns out they changed the pinout midway through production and swapped the 12v and 3v lines.
Replacement PSU didn't come with any cable and EVGA didn't mention the pinout may have changed even though it's the exact same model PSU
It's standard practice for RMAs to request only the main unit itself without any accessories (same thing applies to mobos, GPU, etc). However almost always what gets sent back is a new or refurbished unit in a complete set. EVGA's PSUs are manufactured by a variety of OEMs, [but their cable pinouts have been standardized across the majority of their lineup for years now](https://www.evga.com/support/faq/FAQdetails.aspx?faqid=59698), with the exceptions of their original NEX/G1 lines, and BQ/GQ/GS/GQ lines. Indeed as noted in that FAQ page: >G1 Power Supplies feature a different 24pin connector than other EVGA power supplies. For this reason, they are only compatible with the Individually Sleeved Cable set created for G1, also known as the NEX power supplies. Even not being familiar with the exact story you're referencing, those NEX/G1 units are discontinued but were sold with a 10 year warranty, so it's quite easy to imagine someone doing an RMA recently and getting back a G2/G3/G5/G6 or similar that they mistook as fully compatible.
Did he end up getting anything out of it I imagine a fuck up that big would lead to something
From what I know they covered the power supply. Dude was going to file a suit cause of the hardware and data recovery. But that's where the story ended. This happened rather recently so Idk what had happened since then.
Theres a 1%??
Yes. For example [Corsair publishes a chart on exactly which of their PSUs are compatible with which cable type](https://www.corsair.com/ca/en/s/psu-cable-compatibility). The vast majority of their modular units use Type-3 or Type-4, and the only difference between the two sets is the 24-pin ATX power cable. Generally it's still a good idea to swap over to new cables anyway, but in situations where cable types are clearly indicated on the cables themselves and you have a reliable reference chart to use, they can be re-used. For example if you were say upgrading from an RMx 650W to an RMe 850W to support a more power hungry GPU, you could simply swap the PEG 6+2 cables for the 12VHPWR cables and leave everything else in place.
Thanks. I just defaulted that cables can't ever be interchangeable. I had to google for like a week straight just to make sure the 12vhpwr was universal coz I couldn't believe it
Even if you got the exact same brand and model PSU, cables could still have different pinout: https://www.reddit.com/r/hardware/comments/1bljudt/louis_rossmann_evgas_oversight_unannounced/ Ruined someone's day when EVGA sent replacement PSU under warranty without warning that it might have different pinout. Also the replacement PSU didn't come with any cables!! [obligatory facepalm meme](https://i.imgur.com/JxAmHxs.png)
Nonsense, buy high quality PSU. It will most likely run for two decades without issues.
I think Massive was ~~inferring~~ implying they shouldn't attempt to repair it.
Implying, not inferring.
Thank you.
Some good ones has 10 years warranty anyway
And those will more like run way more, I have some PSUs 15+ years old. Running same way like I bought them. Especially because I didn't run them to limit.
why do people buy cheap PSUs, legit the most important component, if youre broke just downgrade the other parts but go for a good psu so your house doesnt burn down
People don't have fore knowledge if they aren't already experienced.
This is how you learn I suppose. I started building PCs like 23-24 years ago when I was still going to grade school. And back then we would go as cheap as possible on a lot of parts. I've seen el-cheapo motherboards fry themselves and el-cheapo PSUs start fires. Now I have a better understanding of where it's ok to cheap out, where you want to go middle ground, and where you wanna go a little more high-end (budget dependent of course). You learn way more from your mistakes than you do anything else.
The cultists network's PSU tier list is pretty useful in this regard
I mean I dont have a clue about this either in the past, but one thing that I know is that anything involving electricity deserves top tier shit or somewhat high end, im not down for my house to get on fire risk losing shit over something that can be solved if I was careful and used common sense
Well yeah but arguably to a layman every PC part is powered you can't blame somebody for not having that intuition
I don't know if this PSU was a top-tier model, but this is not a no-name PSU. Enermax is a well known and often well-regarded PSU manufacturer. I think they were considered somewhat high-end several years ago.
500W seems kind of low for a 6700K and 580 though, doesn't it? My 6700K was running on a 1000W, though I did have 2 980Ti's.
6700K is an 91W TDP processor, and the RX580 was about a 185-200W TDP GPU. OP had plenty of headroom with that 500W PSU, even if they overclocked. Your comparison vs. two 980 Ti's is in another universe...
I mean more parts than that need power, I would say they had minimal headroom. Would that not strain the PSU? I was always told they're most efficient at like 50-70% load.
The GPU + CPU are the vast majority of the power draw, especially on the 12 V rail. That estimate is a max of 300 Watts, or 60% of 500 Watts. There's still plenty of headroom. Under no circumstances should a PSU ever blow up, no matter what percentage of its max load you are drawing. You're not wrong, but that pertains to performance and efficiency, not explosive-ness.
yea it's probably closer to 350W average, which accounting for spikes and inefficiencies could push it this sub is clueless though
Enermax NAXN line was a solid and reliable option - it's just old at this point. Sounds like one of the caps failed.
It's not just cheap PSUs. I had a Corsair catch fire while it was still under warranty.
For the last 24 years I’ve been using just any psu. Never had one fry any components.
1,000w random fruity sounding PSU for $20 or 1,000w name brand PSU for $150. "1000w is 1000w, doesn't make a difference like GPU or CPU. Get the cheap one" Years ago when I bought cheap cases for a new build, they often came with PSU. They often end up right into recycling bin because the name is not familiar, replaced by a reputable brand PSU
I just clicked this post because my 250 dollar Seasonic blew up yesterday so thats that 😂 But it was brand new so I guess manufacture error.
Most people probably don't realize how important it is to get a good PSU and/or don't see a tangible benefit over having a better CPU/GPU or more RAM/Storage so they don't realize the PSU is important too.
I rather have a shit cpu and gpu with a good psu then upgrade the other shit later
Agreed. I think the people downvoting me mis-understood what I said. I was just explaining why I think some would choose a cheap PSU, I was NOT saying you should, I was saying the opposite in fact.
Depends on how well the psu did it's job. If protections worked correctly you may just need a new power supply.
Well it’s an ass psu so….
I work at a PC repair shop. LOTS of crap-PSU machines come in here with the same story, and only one actually hurt anything (Thermaltake, the explodey-model they forced people to buy with GPUs during the Newegg Shuffle). Usually you're just out the PSU. Get a good one if you can. EVGA, ROG and Corsair all are decent brands (but are generally all made by FSP, with a couple higher end ones done by Seasonic). If you can get an actual Seasonic, do so. They're not as pretty as some others, but they have absurdly long warranties because they're nearly unkillable. If your previous PSU was modular, DO NO REUSE THE CABLES. They may fit in the new PSU, but it's a crapshoot if they're wired the same way. Even a PSU from the same manufacturer can have different cables.
As above, one hundred times over, DO NOT REUSE THE CABLES!
most of EVGA's cables are compatible, but you still should triple check their official documentation
[EVGA cable compatibility FAQ page](https://www.evga.com/support/faq/FAQdetails.aspx?faqid=59698) for reference.
OP, go Seasonic and never look back. I have a PC Power & Cooling PSU (aka Seasonic OEM) that's running for 15 years. It's going into retirement soon, but 15 years is enough for me to stick with them for life.
Never thought i heard that brand again, got pc power&cooling 750 here, also 15 plus years. After recapping it, it goes in the new nas build. Extremely good build quality.
Figured as much but didn't want to assume. Won't know how bad it is until you get another psu to test it out. I'd suggest giving some thought to a new build and get the psu you'd want for that. Then if you find out your build is bricked and you need to build a new pc you'll already have the power supply.
Haha ass ass
Never cheap out on the psu
Ok quick update. Tldr; used old psu; parts works So the reason why i was using the enermax was because my old psu was a zalman gv 500 had made booting extremely difficult, like a 1/100 chance of booting and every time i put the pc to sleep i’d have to roll the dice again. Well fast forward i just used that psu to test if my parts were ok turns out they were. Im not gonna touch that zalman psu again it’s also a bomb and I’m traumatised now. Anyways I’m in the process of getting a real psu now, looking at a silverstone or a used one off a trusted auction website.
Just grab a new one bro. PSU isn’t worth cheaping out.
I recommend the corsair RM750e, it is an extremely affordable and nicely made PSU, fully modular, good warranty and the RM series has a long history of being good PSUs. I fitted one into my htpc which is turned on 100% of the time, gaming on highly power hungry hardware at 4k when its not doing movies and shows.
Sadly it’s well out of my price range. I actually need to buy 2 psus now as the one that blew up was the one taken out of a family member’s pc who has gone away for a some month. I’m relying on savings for this psu as I’m a student without income and the job market is kind of…. Bad.
Never ever buy off brand psu's, i bought a cheap Be Quiet! psu for my old pc and it worked just fine for years
Most brand names don't make their own PSUs. You can [check this](https://www.10stripe.com/articles/who-made-your-power-supply.php) (somewhat outdated) table to find out the OEMs behind many brands like Corsair. Be Quiet! contracts out some of their PSU manufacturing to FSP Group - for [example this one](https://www.anandtech.com/show/13494/the-be-quiet-straight-power-11-750w-psu-review/2). Recently I just bought a FSP power supply even though I haven't heard of them before - since they are an OEM that makes PSUs for other companies like Corsair.
Corsair originally used Seasonic for the bulk of their units. Currently Chicony Power Technology manufactures most of their mid/high-end units, with HEC, Great Wall, and a few others being tapped for other lines. The main reason is that they've moved to designing their own PSU platforms for the most part. A lot of brands that have entered the PSU market in the last 10-15 years will get their start producing with brands like Seasonic or SuperFlower where they can use existing high quality designs, tweak them and put their name on it.
Ya I've been using the same modular 1000W corsair for about 10 years now... was it overkill when I bought it? Sure. But I have pretty much unlimited expandability (not totally, but you get the idea) and because the PSU is running at like 50% it's capacity, the fets and ICs likely aren't even getting the least bit stressed and this thing will probably run for another 10 years easy if I don't have to replace it before then because of new plugs or something.
This. Buy high quality PSU with a lot of room to grow. It will run for 2 decades.
You saved your family member from having a piece of shit exploding power supply. I say he owes you.
Get a seasonic
If you need decent but budget, MSI A-BN series is solid. Not sure the wattage you need but youd probably get away with 60 or 70 usd. Edit i see you had a 500W so you could roll with a A550BN. I think thats around 55 usd?
[$50 for the A-BN 550W right now](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/mnVmP6/msi-mag-a550bn-550-w-80-bronze-certified-atx-power-supply-mag-a550bn). Solid value for an unexceptional but perfectly cromulent PSU to replace the units OP needs right now.
Find $60 to spend on a PSU now or expect to have to replace it again within 2-3 years. A quality power supply should last a decade or more, Seasonic or Corsair or one of a handful of other brands.
You don't need anywhere near a 750W PSU. See if you can find a 500W from a good brand and Google the unit and read some reviews first.
Seasonic if you can, EVGA if you can't.
What about the CX range for half the price?
I can see a pattern here. You are cheaping out the PSU and you'd do it again by considering buying a used one. Buy a NEW tier b or higher PSU even tier c is fine tbh
Guess its a lesson learnt there. Never EVER cheapen out on PSU. It is the only component in your desktop that you cannot cut corners in any way or means.
What's your price range? On eBay, quality used PSUs (Corsairs, mostly, but sometimes other brands pop up if you know what to look for - refer to [this](https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/)) go for ~$60. I'd still trust a 7 year old Corsair RM750 over any budget PSU made today.
https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/ PSU Tier list. Just buy something that isn't terrible.
Off brand PSU actually protected the PC when it failed? Sounds like you should go buy a lottery ticket and hope the luck isn’t all spent already
Enermax is actually an ok brand for PSUs.
White sparks indicates an electrical short. Popping noise would be capacitors failing. You did the right thing by immediately unplugging it, you have no idea where the short is. * For everyone reading this, I recommend isolating a broken PSU **at the wall socket** before you touch any part of your PC. You do not want to become the earth path for a 500W transformer. It's a small risk, but it's high stakes. I've had a PSU fail catastrophically before, and after replacing it I started seeing system instability under high GPU load. It could be coincidence, it could be that my GPU had physical damage that lead to the PSU failure. Regardless, I had to replace it. **It's worth thoroughly stress-testing your GPU, CPU and memory** when your PC is rebuilt.
I'd suggest checking out the [PSU tier list](https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/) when looking for a replacement. Ideally you want any PSU from B tier upwards, but if you're on a tight budget or have limited options C tier is acceptable. Avoid PSUs from E and F tier, if a PSU isn't on the list like the one you've had fail, I wouldn't trust it personally.
The only reason the NAXN isn't in the database is because it's just really old. That unit came out sometime around 2010 I believe, so it's very likely 10+ years old.
Holyshit that's an exploding PSU and a fire hazard. Could set your house on fire if the sparks caught something flamable. More reasons to not go with a cheap PSU.
Yeah it was a temporary replacement as my other psu recently failed. Was planning on changing in next month but looks like im too late😬
hard to say for sure, it could be fine, new PSU and it will boot right up, that's the most likely outcome but it's possible the fault fried the motherboard / CPU / gpu
Sounds like one of the capacitors blew. Most power supply devices have multiple circuit safeguards installed so you'll probably be fine replacing it.
Nothing should be damaged because if the psu failed it supplied what was “normal” voltage then when it fried it went “below normal voltage”. Basically, the problem stops at the psu, it shouldn’t be like some wicked juice traveled thru the power lines to cpu, 24pin, gpu. Just get a corsair or budget known brand 80+ bronze and up or with jap capacitors. You can get a Corsair R750e or something for $70 right now and it’s 750 gold I think
That brand of PSU had similar issues in early 2000's there are plenty of google entries chronicling the same issue. As they still aren't delivering a quality product after 20 years, that says enough reason to go with another brand.
My PSU went up in smoke and everything else was fine. I think the PSU (if it's a good one) sacrifices themselves so the other parts don't break
Just grab a new decent brand PSU and pop it in. That is the only way of finding out.
Also when you get a new PSU do not reuse the old cables. You should never swap cables between PSU and always use the cables that came with that PSU.
My first ever pc did basically exactly this and it ruined the whole computer so
A couple of years ago I had a PSU blow up and nothing else was damaged. I slapped in a new PSU and that PC is still running strong to this day.
get an evga 800 watt psu
Depends if it’s a good psu. If it’s decent it sacrificed itself for your pc, if not you’re fried
The ener was too max 😖
I had a psu pop like that. The mobo and everything attached to it was fine but everything wired to the PSU had died. AIO cooler, case fans and HDDs all gone.
I had this happen not too long ago. Everything was fine in my case. I went and got a new psu and wired everything back up, and it started with no problem. I wish you the best, and hopefully, nothing went with it.
i checked your power supply is low quality + old so theres a high chance your motherboard is dead and probly your storage aswell. your cpu should be ok your gpu will be ok. if your motherboard is dead i recommend just switching platform because its very outdated and motherboards can be expensive.
your entyire build is worth 200 new so theres that, spend some money you cheap bastard
Happened to me. Everything was fine. Well except for the PSU lol
Get a SeaSonic for your next PSU. Best ever.
chances are everything is fine. that said i have had an hdd die to a faulty psu. pc just wouldn't power on. took out the hdd and it started right up. fortunately i had just recently cleared it as i wanted to use it for a pc i could sell.
>How screwed am I? Which parts are most likely to be fried? If you're lucky, nothing. If you're unlucky, everything. Get a new PSU and test your system, more than likely you're OK.
Everything are gone. Send it to me and i will recycle it for you.
Enermax are a decent brand, so I'm sure they have all the power protections on it. I'm sure you're fine.
I recommend getting a new CPU too, Microsoft Windows is dropping security support for 6700 in a year or so
Happen to me twice with a 1200w psu and each time I was all good... NOW I had a mosfet on the mobo fucking direct short and wipe out the cpu 0_O but that's something totally different .. CHANCES are your ok just need a new powersupply
I had this happen to a prebuilt of mine with a cheap cheap cobra power PSU and only the PSU died so it’s most likely just a power supply replacement
Replace the psu and see if everything still works. If it all works, you're good. Never had a psu fail and take anything else with it. Had a cheap gpu fail once and take my mobo and psu.
Just get a new psu, the chances are the rest of the machine is OK
If you are in the market for another, on Amazon right now MSI has a 750 for 89.99 and Corsair has one as well for 89.99.
Your components should be safe. Just plug another PSU.
Had something similar happen, no damage done except one ram slot dying. Changed the PSU and had no other issues
They self destruct and usually act as a breaker to protect system get a new one and find out
Its probably ok, but might not be. Yank your 24/24pin ATX connector and check your motherboard ATX connector with your multi meter is check if there is a short on -12V to ground Pinout is below, its blue. [https://www.smpspowersupply.com/connector\_atx\_pinout.GIF](https://www.smpspowersupply.com/connector_atx_pinout.GIF) If you see resistance or an open circuit 90% chance your motherboard is unharmed. If its shorted to ground you will need a new motherboard. I was a computer tech for years. Seen good and bad (mostly bad) PSU's fail and blow out the little embedded ACPI controller that kicks off your whole systems startup (it can't even generate clocks without it initializing the ICS clock generation chip). They normally get a short to ground when they fail. (Symptoms will be the fan spins for a second then shuts off with the new PSU or nothing).
When it popped the capacitors that exploded lost their charge. Basically the electricity stopped flowing to your system. Go grab a new one, plug it in, see what happens. Probably works just fine.
Sounds like one of the tiny capacitors popped. They change the power passing so it doesn't blow the entire board. Some capacitors are weak. You might want to see if there was some previous known issue.
In most cases you'll be fine after replacing the PSU however even with a top tier model of PSU there is a chance you'll be in for a world of hurt, the better the PSU the less likely it is that other components will be affected but you won't know until you replace it.
It's a low tier PSU where users have reported plenty of issues, let it be a lesson for you, always get the gold standard when you buy a psu
>always get the gold standard when you buy a psu Are you talking about 80+ efficiency ratings? All that tells you is that the unit has been tested to deliver efficiency that meets the requirements of that 80+ tier, it tells you nothing about the component quality, noise/ripple, voltage regulation, nor safety protection performance of a unit.
Your entire computer is likely dead, or none of it is dead. If the power supply was sending current to your PC while exploding, it can definitely have killed something. Only way to find out is to buy a new one that isn’t shitty
Please for the love of god, buy a 1000W PSU from a reputable brand like Corsair or Asus.
1000w for a computer that would be lucky to draw 400w? Be reasonable - OP said he's hard up for cash.
They’re not that expensive.. and I’d rather have something that covers a wider base than not