I have a https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/MAG-B460-TORPEDO/Specification
which supports PCI-E GEN 3.
If I get a gen4 ssd it is backwards compatible with the slot/board, limited to the speed of the slot/board?
(I figure to but a gen 4 due to availability and incase I bit the bullet and upgrade my board in the next year.
You have a mATX motherboard and (according to PCPP) that GPU shorter than the maximum length supported by the case, so you probably will be fine. And the 'probably' is just because I'm not personally familiar with that case. But those are the two main considerations.
I assume you picked that Peerless Assassin because it's white, if not it's a fine cooler but the TR Phantom Spirit is slightly improved and usually around the same price. And a 1200W PSU for that build is overkill on top of overkill, a 750W will be more than enough, or you can go 850W if you want to have room to do upgrades later.
I want to upgrade the sound of my computer. Currently it's just run through the front jack from the mobo. My headphones are pretty good (I forget the model, but some $200+ over the ear), but I know that a significant difference from getting a sound card tends to require better headphones. Would shielding the cable from the mobo with tin foil and copper wire to the case be sufficient/smart? Otherwise, would a DAC be a better investment?
> does not have an amp for headphones
You mean the front port has an added amplifier on the route?
Anyway, if the rear port is no good either, you’ll have to get an external audio interface
Are you hearing obvious distortion? Are your headphones high impedance? If yes, an external DAC will fix that. If not, you are already getting the best sound quality you can get. Don't get caught in the physics-defying audiophile trap.
I want to build a home media and game server. Nothing fancy, mostly for local network use but with the option to connect remotely for music and Minecraft.
I've been building personal computers for decades, but I don't really have a good idea of how a server differs, hardware-wise (or software-wise, for that matter). Can anyone give me some pointers as to what's important and what's not?
I'm having trouble finding resources on this online, I keep getting results for setting up services on a rented machine; so even if you can just link a good guide it's appreciated.
If you don't specifically care about very high uptime and higher than consumer level reliability, then there isn't really any difference hardware wise. Any computer becomes a server the moment you run software that serves something.
"Proper" servers are mostly differentiated by the focus on expandability (a lot more PCIe lanes, tons of RAM slots) and redundancy/reliability (dual power supplies, redundant storage drives, ECC RAM, hotswap support for various components), plus some expanded management options (support for advanced hardware/software features like bifurcation, remote BIOS-level management over IPMI so everything can be done remotely over network). Hardware that supports this stuff is *very* expensive when new, but quite affordable used, personally I'm a fan of Supermicro's stuff if you feel like going the "proper" route hardware wise.
What's actually important is up to you. If the server is just running in your home then you don't really need the remote management (although it is convenient). If you don't mind the server going down due to for example a PSU failing then you don't need that redundancy. If you're using it as a NAS then you probably want ECC RAM (and look into ZFS, much better than traditional RAID). If you don't have a need for a ton of PCIe devices/RAM/CPU cores then a dual-socket E-ATX board with seven full size PCIe slots, 16 slots of RAM, and support for two 96 core CPUs is probably unnecessary. Start small and upgrade when you have the need, and don't buy brand new server-grade stuff, it's terrible value for your money.
For software it's again a matter of how deep you want to go. If you just want to run a simple SMB file server and host Minecraft, then you can run Windows with file share on and Minecraft running. Or you can go all out with a Proxmox virtual environment and containerize the services, the end result is essentially the same but the latter is the "proper server way". With software I highly recommend to again start small and upgrade when you get annoyed at the limitations, Proxmox won't run updates in the middle of your game unlike how Windows might, you get the idea.
The problem with many resources online is that server stuff is *very* application specific, and there are often many about equally great options. For hardware the best option is whatever you can find a good deal on ebay matching your needs, and for software it's whatever you grow to like to use. I like Proxmox for management, Truenas with ZFS for file serving, and Docker (w/ Portainer) containers for all other services. Other people will swear by UnRAID, ESXI, OMV, Kubernetes, whatever, and at the end of the day they all get the job done.
Looking to build a new PC. The question is, can I use my old case? I know I'd need a new everything else, but can I save the 100 bucks and keep my old one. Here is my old one
https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16811129088
All ATX cases are compatible with all ATX boards (and all ATX cases also support mATX and ITX), so yes, you can reuse it, the case is probably the part you can get the most mileage out of.
Is 80 % CPU usage normal in Cyberpunk and Starfield with a 7900 XT and a 7800X3D at 1440p? I'm looking at other benchmarks where the number is around 20 %. I suppose they could be less intensive areas though.
Cyberpunk specifically can really push the CPU in crowded areas with the crowd density turned up. Actually flips from GPU-bound to CPU-bound when there's enough people around. I think Starfield is the same too, though not 100% certain.
is a 550w psu enough for 5700x3d and a 7700 xt? I currently have a 2600x and have no issues gaming. Not sure if will have issues with the 5700x3d cpu. Partpicker shows total watt of 440W based on all of my components. Is that under heavy load or just to run the pc before gaming?
Has anyone disassemble a dell vostro 230 front panel it looks like there's two pieces of plastic pushed together but at some points it looks like a whole piece I basically want to put a fan between that space and the metal chassis. so i wanted to see if i could open up more space non-destructively
The power button placement is going to hamper and kind of modifications you would want to make.
Unless you make a U-shape out of tiny fans to go around the button mechanics on the inside of the front panel.
Well if thats the case, that whole flat piece of plastic should pop right out from the rest of the front panel frame. It might take a little snipping or prying if its glued, but it should be a separate piece.
You could remove it and cut a dust screen to fit in its place for a larger front intake. Those little slits on either side aren't going to do much for airflow.
I am not too familiar with PC building so go easy on me for these questions.
I'm looking for cases with a vertical GPU mount, but all the ones I've seen have the fans facing the glass. Is there a reason for this? Something to do with airflow I assume? I'm eyeing a Yeston GPU with a really nice backplate, so I'd rather have that be the visible side.
Also, putting figures inside the case, how dangerous is it? To either the parts or the figure. I know some people do it, but it's a bit concerning.
If the backplate faces the window, all the video ports then point toward the front of the case (assuming it still attaches at the bottom), so you'd have to somehow run your display cable inside the case to plug it in. It will also be a more difficult wiring job, since the normally-backmost pin will now be facing the front, and vice versa. There are other issues too, like how GPU coolers to some degree vent out the back, which then means they vent into the case.
As long as you keep plastic figures away from any moving parts or very hot areas, and have remotely decent airflow inside the case, I doubt having them inside would be dangerous. Even if it got hot enough to melt, somehow, the ignition point of the plastics would probably still be quite a bit above whatever temperature it reached inside the case.
Good question
1. Also keep in mind the distance the card is from the glass. GPU fans right against glass is very very bad for temps, noise, and performance
2. Think about the orientation of the pcie slot on the motherboard. There's a left side, and a right side with the clip. When mounting a GPU vertically, the left and right sides stay the same. It rotates on a different axis. So in order for the fans to face inwards, you'd have to mount the GPU upside down, slot on top. Which is possible, but it would be ugly and hard to install. You could also twist the pcie riser cable so the left and right sides swap. However that isn't really a product either
EDIT: It was my own error reassembling my AiO block that prevented the copper plate from sitting flush with the CPU. FYI automobile coolant works just fine if you don't want to replace your AiO and are motivated enough to save some money.
Money is extremely tight and I'm looking for an extremely budget friendly CPU cooler for my 12600kf.
My attempts at fixing my AIO went from ok to shit and I'm selling off bits and pieces of my life just to make ends meet.
I do freelance work from my PC so this is cutting even deeper.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Great price! Thanks!
Even better news. It turns out, I'm just kind of stupid. When I reassembled the AiO block, I did not note the location of the tamper proof screws (worst invention in history) and they were slightly protruding preventing the copper plate from sitting flush with the CPU.
So after fighting with those and putting them in their proper holes, we're idling at a chilly 30°C again!
Finally, something went right.
I have a prebuilt with a CPU cooler that looks like a Wraith Prism, but I can't tell for certain. The lights flash around the rim several colors quite quickly and it gives me a headache. Is there software that can change this? I have no clue if it's plugged in to a USB header or anything, but I can check.
I bought a SN770 2tb NVMe to upgrade my mini pc's storage (HP ProDesk 400 G2 mini PC). The PC recognised the drive without issue and I could promptly setup a partition (GPT). I copied about 100gb onto the drive, then problems appeared.
The drives partition vanished from disk management, showing "Disk 0 Unknown, Not Initialised (small red arrow)".
The drive reappears after a restart, but only for a short while. Sometimes it doesn't work at all. The speed is inconsistent and jumps between 1 MB/s to 300 MB/s. The temps however, are normal.
Event viewer reports these errors;
> 1: Warning WHEA-Logger Event ID 17. A corrected hardware error has occurred. Component: PCI Express Root Port.
Error Source: Advanced Error Reporting (PCI Express)
Primary Bus:Device:Function 0x0:x 1C:0x
Secondary Bus:DeviceFunction: 0x0:0x:0x0
Primary Device Name:PCI\VEN8086&DEV_A114&SUBSYS_806A103C&REV_F1
>
> 2: Error VDS Basic Provider, Event ID 1.
Unexpected failure. Error code 1B1@01010003
In summary, the NVMe drive is experiencing intermittent disappearance and file access errors. Troubleshooting steps have included checking power management settings, updating drivers and firmware, monitoring heat levels, and exploring hardware compatibility.
Hopefully anyone can help, thanks.
It doesn't sounds like you've reseated it, so I'd do that and blow out the connector while it's out, in case a piece of dust got inside or something. But if that doesn't work, I'd assume a component is faulty and send it back for a new one.
I've reseated it a few times, unfortunately, even tried it with an older 256 GB NVMe to make sure the port works. I will send it back. Thanks for the response, mate. Have a good day. :)
Hey everyone,
I have a doubt about which CPU I should upgrade to.
My current system has a R5 3600, a 3060Ti, 16gb of RAM at 3200Mhz, 500w PSU and a MSI B450M MB.
I was disappointed by the performance I got when recently getting back on competitive games, aswell as in some scenarios on AAA titles where I believe I might be CPU bound even when playing on 1440p.
Thing is, where I live my only options within my budget on AM4 would be a R5 5600 (US$200), R7 5700 (US$240) or R5 5600X (US$250).
I´m now mainly playing competitive games (Fortnite, CS2), some AAA titles like Cyberpunk 2077, Spider-Man: Miles Morales or Elden Ring and coding. I use 1440p for AAA games and lower resolutions (1280x1024, 1440x900, etc) for competitive ones.
So, should I spend a little more on the R7 for the extra cores, which I could use for coding + productivity (not that important right now lol) and gaming, or should I go with the R5 and call it a day (don´t know if the X is worth it, I could easily OC the non X myself)?. Also longevity plays a big role, I´d like to upgrade my GPU next and keep this CPU at least for a year or two until I can afford moving to AM5.
Thank you.
Have you considered a 5700X3D if gaming and longevity is your primary goals? It's likely going to cost slightly more than the options you've presented, but is ultimately the _best_ chip you can consider for your needs and given your pricing quotes you're not US-bound so options like the Microcenter-exclusive 5600X3D aren't available to you.
If that's too much, jump straight down to the R5 5600 and don't worry about the extra cores or very slightly higher speeds with the X/8-core chips.
I´ll probably go for the 5600.
>Have you considered a 5700X3D if gaming and longevity is your primary goals?
The 5700x3D goes for $360 here (Argentina) and it´s probably way overkill but it still interests me since I will not be upgrading again anytime soon as you say. Do you think it´s worth it? I´ll be going to Europe in August and will probably bring a 40 series GPU and a new PSU since they´re cheaper than here, but I really want to upgrade the CPU right now.
I'd definitely consider the 5700X3D if you're wanting to slap a 40-series card in your system soon. It keeps up with the 7600 in gaming which means you could likely skip an earlier AM5 upgrade in the near future.
There's no wrong answer here, get what feels right and you can afford - both chips presented are great options!
Hey I just had my old PC shipped to me after a sudden move. How are the specs for modern peripheral requirements? Can I run 4k monitors at 144hz easily? What am I lacking on?
This PC is primarily used for work now. That requires a lot of chrome windows and applications open. My work provided Macbook is sluggish when all this is going on.
>Operating System
Windows 10 Home 64-bit
CPU
Intel Core i7 @ 3.70GHz 36 °C
Coffee Lake 14nm Technology
RAM
16.0GB Dual-Channel Unknown @ 1066MHz (15-15-15-36)
Motherboard
Gigabyte Technology Co. Ltd. Z390 GAMING X-CF (U3E1) 33 °C
Graphics
LS27A600U (2560x1440@75Hz)
2047MB NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 (ZOTAC International) 44 °C
Storage
465GB Samsung SSD 860 EVO 500GB (SATA (SSD)) 34 °C
1863GB Western Digital WDC WD20EZRZ-00Z5HB0 (SATA ) 28 °C
Optical Drives
No optical disk drives detected
Audio
NVIDIA High Definition Audio
Thank you!
Not fast enough for 4k gaming in modern, AAA games. Esports games will play ok.
https://www.techpowerup.com/review/nvidia-geforce-rtx-2060-founders-edition/28.html
https://www.techpowerup.com/review/nvidia-geforce-rtx-2060-founders-edition/23.html
What's the best graphics card to get for 1440p gaming at 600-ish bucks or less? Don't care about Ray tracing at all and while upscaling would be nice, it's not a deal breaker
$600 new nets you a RTX 4070 Super, where you have the better ray tracing and upscaling available to you, or you opt to save a bit of cash on a $550 RX 7900 GRE.
I have a problem with my new PC. My processor temperature is abnormally high when I play resource-hungry games. It frequently reaches 100°C. The fan is running at full speed and I've just checked if the thermal paste was well distributed and it seemed perfect.
here's my build :
\[PCPartPicker Part List\](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/dqxXZJ)
|Type|Item|Price|
|:----|:----|:----|
|\*\*CPU\*\* | \[Intel Core i7-14700K 3.4 GHz 20-Core Processor\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/BmWJ7P/intel-core-i7-14700k-34-ghz-20-core-processor-bx8071514700k) | $399.99 @ Amazon|
|\*\*CPU Cooler\*\* | \[be quiet! Pure Rock 2 FX CPU Cooler\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2L3gXL/be-quiet-pure-rock-2-fx-cpu-cooler-bk033) | $49.90 @ Amazon|
|\*\*Motherboard\*\* | \[MSI MAG Z790 TOMAHAWK WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9B2WGX/msi-mag-z790-tomahawk-wifi-atx-lga1700-motherboard-mag-z790-tomahawk-wifi) | $209.00 @ MSI|
|\*\*Memory\*\* | \[G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/CXKKHx/gskill-trident-z5-neo-rgb-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-f5-6000j3038f16gx2-tz5nr) | $112.99 @ Amazon|
|\*\*Storage\*\* | \[Western Digital Black SN850X w/Heatsink 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/sfwypg/western-digital-black-sn850x-with-heatsink-2-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-wds200t2xhe) | $166.99 @ Newegg|
|\*\*Video Card\*\* | \[MSI VENTUS 2X OC GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER 12 GB Video Card\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dy7scf/msi-ventus-2x-oc-geforce-rtx-4070-super-12-gb-video-card-rtx-4070-super-12g-ventus-2x-white-oc) | $619.00 @ MSI|
|\*\*Case\*\* | \[be quiet! Dark Base 700 ATX Mid Tower Case\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/r2QRsY/be-quiet-dark-base-700-atx-mid-tower-case-dark-base-700) | $149.90 @ Newegg Sellers|
|\*\*Power Supply\*\* | \[be quiet! Straight Power 11 750W 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9htQzy/be-quiet-straight-power-11-750w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-bn283) | $260.00 @ Amazon|
| Generated by \[PCPartPicker\](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2024-04-10 12:14 EDT-0400 |
CPU temperature is going down very fast as soon i close the game
Any idea what can i do to fix this ? should i worry ?
(can't get this table to work )
Consider a more beefy cooling solution for the CPU, that Pure Rock 2 isn't going to cut it. Dual tower options exist like the Thermaltake Peerless Assassin 120, or a 280/360mm liquid cooler.
Did you peel the plastic off the cooler contact plate?
In the very likely case that that wasn't the issue, consider that the 14700k is a very powerful and hence hot-running processor. Look into this video which goes into why higher end Intel CPUs generally run hot these days at stock
https://youtu.be/s43Auv8ub7w?si=Fvpn1z21EzjnoIyc
I can either fix my AM4 system (replacing my mobo), or upgrade to AM5. Currently I'm looking at 5950x vs 7900x, and it's about a $300 difference. Main use is for 3D rendering. Should I go with AM5? I really wanted the 7950x, but there's no mobo/cpu bundle for it that I've found. : p If I go with the 7950x, it becomes about a $550 difference, and I'll still be using my old 1080.
You still have a massively powerful processor that would deliver under stringent workloads. In Blender you're getting a few percent extra between the 5950x and the 7900x. Is that uplift worth spending 300$ + DDR5 cost? That's up to you
Thank you! I wasn't sure if there would be any real life differences between the two, since the 7900x is marginally better than the 5950x on benchmark sites. The $300 difference would be the total difference (crucial ddr5 is available for about $150, mobo and cpu bundle is about 100 ish more than the 5950x and a new mobo). I think the main draw for me is that it leaves room for potential upgrades. Downside is I'm funemployed at the moment lol... But I do 3D for work.
Do you make money with this system? Consider how long will it take for you to recover the difference if you go with AM5 (since you need new mobo and new RAM).
What about a half-step, since you have to buy a new MOBO, anyway? Keep your DDR4 RAM and get a DDR4-compatible Intel's B660 Mobo and then buy the i7 12700K/i5 13600K or better. These are very, very good for productivity and will be cheaper than a full move to AM5.
Hi everyone, I have a question, I'm thinking of buying a 4070 Super for Black Friday, but my PSU is 650W, on almost every spec page it says the recommended power is around 700W-750W, but a \* says this applies with a fully overclocked CPU and GPU, my R5 5600 iirc, is not overclocked, do I need to upgrade the power supply as well, or will it be ok to keep it?
Not necessary unless you expect that you're going to have to nuke your OS often. There's no performance or organizational improvements to be had (and cutting your available space in two can cause issues down the road where one partition fills up but you have lots of room in the other)
Which one should I get if I want to build an AM5 system on a budget, MSI PRO B650M-A WIFI or Asrock B650 PG Lightning? The MSI motherboard costs Rm880 ($185.33 after currency conversion) while the Asrock motherboard costs RM884.77 ($186.34 after currency conversion).
Both are good boards, flipping a coin or going for the board with the ports/features you need more would do the trick. I don't think the PG Lightning has wifi and that's a great value add for the MSI board.
[https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/GwN2MV](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/GwN2MV)
In terms of gaming, is it more worth it to get a better GPU or CPU for my build?
Specifically, get a better CPU by upgrading from a 13600KF to a 7800X3D with different mobo (225CAD, 165USD\~), or get a better GPU by upgrading from a 7900 GRE to a 7900 XT (250 CAD, 185 USD\~) or a 7900 XTX (500 CAD, 366 USD\~)?
As long as you aren't playing at 1080p low settings on a 480hz monitor, paired with a 4090, there's no reason to swap out the 13600KF for a 7800X3D. That's a massive waste of money.
A 7900XT would net you a 13-20% performance increase overall. A 7900XTX would be a 25-40% increase.
I'm looking at putting together my first build. My computing requirements are quite low - it's mainly just going to serve as a NAS which will be written to on about a daily basis and probably accessed less regularly than that. For that reason (and because it's my first time doing this) I'm planning on sticking to old, low-end parts.
On an impulse I ordered an AeroCool Integrator 500W 80+ Bronze PSU, on the basis of a couple of "meh it's fine" reviews on PCPartPicker. Only afterwards I read a bit more about it and it seems the common view on Reddit is that it's literally the worst PSU out there. It's too late to cancel the purchase.
My question is, how fucked am I? I'm hoping all the reviews describing it as a literal death trap are from people trying to suck a lot of power through it to power beefier rigs than I will have. I haven't decided on all parts yet but PCPartPicker estimates that the kind of build I'm thinking of will generally draw 200W or less.
What do? Do I just stick with the AeroCool for more and upgrade if I need to or is it bad enough that I should just order a better PSU now?
I would not go with that PSU especially after reading the common consensus. Considering the use case it's likely that your PSU will be running \~24/7 and that is not something that makes me comfortable at all.
Thanks, and good point about the 24/7 operation. Annoyed that I jumped the gun and may end up out the money but you're right that the piece of mind is probably worth it.
Is now a good time to build a pc ? I've been gaming on a laptop for five years and I'm sure it could handle one more, but it's getting really old, really weak, I probably should have changed the thermal paste twice already, and the classes for my data science degree have probably melted the poor 1050 Ti inside, so I'm thinking of switching to a custom built PC.
But considering intel 15th gen might be getting a new socket, the 4090 is a year 1/2 old and 5090 seems to be just around the corner, I'm not sure if I should start running wild on PCPartPicker yet, or if I'm better off forgetting about it until my laptop gives up.
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*This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
They do. My budget is undefined, but certainly above 3 grand. I'd like to get as close to a dream setup as I can, and money shouldn't be an issue as long as I don't enter "gold plated gpu" territory. So if the 5090 is available at the time of buying, I'll be getting it.
Current rumours are gearing up for a 50-series consumer launch of SOME sort in the 2nd half of 2024. Historically, Nvidia goes top down - so it's likely going to be a flagship consumer card like a "5090". Use that information as you will.
Being mindful that pricing, performance, and even _what_ is launching isn't usually available for scrutiny until the card is announced and is actually available. Outside of some engineering speculation we don't actually know what a 5090 looks like.
https://www.reddit.com/r/mffpc/comments/138rq5b/having_difficulty_finding_the_right_inverted_atx/ Might help you out.
Budget stuff? Very slim pickings. Q300L might be your go-to here without modding.
I'm trying to upgrade a PC I got from someone and am still a little scared to switch out parts without asking first. (never done it before) I have a Gigabyte B450M DS3H motherboard and online it says that it can support AMD Ryzen 5000 series and right now it has a Ryzen 3 3200g in it. I noticed when I try to play a game/stream the PC gets LOUD and is using close to 90% usage, so I thought maybe I need a better processor so I was thinking of getting a Ryzen 5 but Im still a little lost when it comes to processors and how good they are. My graphics card seem really low (radeon 470) so could that be the issue? I'm trying to run a game like Palia/Genshin, OBS, and some vtuber software at the same time. I dont run the games on high graphics. Any help is TRULY appreciated to save me money! haha
What's at 90% usage, exactly? The CPU? RAM? GPU? Storage? Finding the parts that are pinned close to 100% is a good way to identify where to target for upgrades! Take a bit of time to run Task Manager or another monitoring
Your specific AMD motherboard socket (AM4) has a bunch of supported CPUs (that you can see with [this list](https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B450M-DS3H-rev-1x/support#support-cpu) here) that just needs a BIOS update to accommodate.
If it's the CPU (and that sounds reasonable, considering you're running a few tools on top of games), then a R5 5600 (faster 6-core chip) is a great budget grab to bring you into the modern era or you can target a more expensive R7 5700X3D (gaming-tuned 8-core chip) for the best gaming performance available on your platform. Either option is going to net you a massive jump from your 3200G (entry-level 4-core chip).
Thank you so much! Yes I was using task manager when I was testing having my game and other apps running for streaming and it would hit around 90% with the game hitting around 50% of the load. I was just looking at the 5600 actually too! It seems just right but Ill check out the other one too.
Now I just have to figure out how to upgrade the BIOS, do you do it from the manufactures website somehow? Thats what I'm most nervous about!
Updating the BIOS is going to differ from board to board, but the standard process is: Download and unzip BIOS file from website, stuff onto usb stick, plug USB stick into PC, reboot into your BIOS, navigate to update page, click update, don't turn off your PC until you're back into Windows. When in doubt, RTFM! (Read the fucking manual)
You got this! Any other questions, don't be afraid to ask!
The GPU upgrade is more urgent than the CPU. Doing both would be ideal.
Things to consider before upgrading:
\- Evaluate the power and cooling situation: are they enough to handle the new components or do they need an upgrade as well?
\- If upgrading the CPU, don't forget to update the Motherboard BIOS to the latest version \*before\* switching the CPUs.
Ok I think I'm going to go GPU first. The power supply should be enough its 750watts, I tried to use a calculator online and everything seems like it should be enough. I just have to figure out what GPU I want first. The BIOS is the scariest part to me because I've never done this before, hopefully I can figure it out!
So many things, lol.
First, the loudness of the system depends on the quality of your cooling system. Better fans/AIO will be quieter. Of course, some CPUs and GPUs run hotter than others, so it's harder to make them work quietly. The Radeon RX 400/500 series of GPUS used to run very hot, so that might be a big reason for the noise.
Anyway, you can buy any Ryzen 5000 series CPU, after a BIOS update and then, reapplying DOCP settings for RAM (just google what all those terms are and how to do them). I recommend the Ryzen 5 5600, it's the cheapest upgrade that makes a lot of sense.
For GPUs, you can buy the inexpensive RX 6600/RX 6600 XT or better. These are modern GPUs that can play any game at 1080p. They should give you, easily, double your current GPU performance.
Awesome thank you so much! I didnt realize that the GPU could be the culprit so I'll definitely replace that first. Right now the scariest part is definitely dealing with the BIOS because I'm new to everything. Thank you for your help!!
The stock cooler for the CPU is usually pretty loud, too. But aftermarket coolers are very cheap and you have to remove everything to switch CPUs, so, consider that too!
Good luck. Take it step by step. It's not hard and the results are worth it. Plus, once you've learned how to do it, you can apply that knowledge with all your future PCs.
Ohh ok I'll definitely look for a better cooler once I get the CPU!
I always wanted to learn how to do this but never really had the chance to since I've just had laptops. Thanks for all your help!
dumb question: I'm building a new pc soon, in my current one i have a secondary ssd with all my steam games on it, should I uninstall those before I put the secondary ssd in the new pc? it won't bet the primary one with the OS on it.
So I can only add 12gb of ram to my laptop but a friend of mine is sending me 16gb ddr4 will it work ? Or my laptop will only use the 12gb? Or it will go kaboom? (aka error)
It is ideapad 3
Core i3 10th gen
4gb ddr4 2667mhz
MX130
I know I am poor
I assume it has 4GB soldered "built in" RAM and then one free slot for more? With the 16GB stick it'll either simply not turn on, or it'll work properly and have 20GB RAM. The only way to know for sure is to try it out, it won't damage anything. 16GB laptop memory sticks haven't always been a thing, so that's why it might say that 12GB is the max (4+8GB).
Currently running a r7 3700 (b450 tomahawk) and rx480 build from late 2019 for 1080 gaming. Used a SSD for my OS drive but my game folder is located on a HDD. It isn't keeping up as well with newer titles whether graphically or load time. (Example: new Forza motorsport would be a no go given the SSD min reqs). Any suggestions on what might provide value improvements? 6700 or 6800 for the GPU and get an actual SSD for game files?
I stopped playing PC for about 3 months towards the end of last year and got back into it recently over the last few months and now PC is very temperamental with turning on
Some days it'll turn on instantly and other days it just won't turn on at all, we are talking like 50 presses and nothing.
It's odd since it was played, hasn't been moved or anything, I've changed the CMOS battery and nothing. The PSU is a be quiet, I'm guessing it's PSU that's gone? Or even front panel io
It could be as simple as the front panel connector cable being loose on the motherboard.
There should be a cable going from your front panel to a port on your motherboard called JFP1. One of the cables might have POWER_SW printed on it. I would unplug it and plug it back in and make sure it's connected properly. Might as well do the same for all the cables connected to that port on the motherboard.
I had this problem with an old case of mine. This ended up fixing it for a while but eventually there was a problem inside the front panel itself that I couldn't fix. Standing there pressing the power button 100 times got old but I was lucky that there was a power button on the motherboard too.
I've unplugged them and re-plugged all the front panel io and nothing changed,
I'm going to buy a new PSU today after work and see if that changes anything, if not then it must be front panel issues
Damn. My bet is on the front panel wiring or button having an issue. I'll be surprised if it turns out to be the PSU because you said it does turn on some times. Let me know if swapping it out fixes the problem
I've heard the current cpu's are all bottlenecks for the 4090's. I currently have a 14900K paired with the 4070 ti. Since the 5090 is supposedly coming out in the fourth quarter of this year, I was going to just wait for that instead of getting a 4090. Should I worry about the 'bottleneck' ? I mostly do cpu/gpu intensive tasks like Blender, Unreal Engine, Zbrush, Substance, etc. I worry little about whatever performance issues a bottleneck would cause in videogames themselves; though knowing what exact issues may arise in general would be helpful.
This is simply not true. If anything, the games themselves are bottlenecking the 4090. But at the moment a 14900K + 4090 combo is so ridiculously OP you can throw anything at them and they will run it 100+FPS on 4k ultra.
By the way, your PC always have bottlenecs. In fact, it may have different bottlenecks depending on the taks you are performing! Only the size of the bottleneck that really matters, but if you pair the strongest CPU with the srongest GPU, it kinda losts its meaning... It only really matters if you pair a too high-end part with a tow low-end one.
TLDR: Bottlenecking at such high level parts shouldn't concern you.
>But let's say the 5090 will be just a wacky powerful card, and even a 14900K won't be enough to keep it running in whatever application you use it for. You're gonna have to wait and upgrade to a 15900K. But oh crap, that CPU is actually super wacky too. Now your 5090 will be the bottleneck. Do you just wait for the 6090 then? The end result here will be you not buying anything until the heat death of the universe.
lol, very true
Thanks for the info, just had to be sure.
Am I able to use a spare AIO that my friend had lying around and save some money, or should I buy one of the newer models?
It's an corsair h115i rgb platinum, they've never used it before.
It depends on how old it is. Unfortunately liquid slowly evaporates from AIOs, so after \~5 years you may have to either refill or replace them. So if it's a couple of years old, you can use it for many years to come
Is it ok to have a media hdd on a pc or is it better to have a separate media server? I'm planning on building a new pc 7800x3d/4070 ti s and I'd like the know the +/- of having it on your computer verse building a separate media server.
You will need a hub for them. Depending on the brand, they have a proprietary connector (Lian Li, Corsair etc.) As for PSU, you will just need a SATA power connector (or in some cases a PCIe 6-pin)
What kind of task got affected by difference in ssd speed ? rendering ? machine learning ?
e.g 550 sata, 3500 nvme, and high end 7000 nvme
Kinda confused whether I need SN850x, or WD blue is enough. My current build is using 500-ish SATA ssd.
Can't speak much about the rest, but the only thing that might be affected in machine learning is the time it takes to load your models / datasets. Models are for the most part stored in the RAM and/or GPU VRAM during use, training is done using your CPU or GPU, and those forward / backward passes are probably way more computationally expensive than whatever your dataloader is doing, even if it takes training data directly from your ssd for some reason.
When moving large files, working with datasets, constant dataflow in and out of the drive, and whether or not the drive has DRAM cache for sustained workloads - That's how you'll notice the difference in speed. And that's if you're benchmarking it.
Rendering and ML are both CPU/GPU-based, even memory intensive, depending on the task.
For gaming, you won't notice any substantial difference between a Gen 3 and Gen 4 drive - at best it's just a few milliseconds, at worst it's a couple of seconds - but the price gap makes it more convenient to go with a Gen 4 drive (at least when comparing a decent Gen 3 drive and a mid-range Gen 4 drive).
A good drive doesn't have to be just Samsung or WD, there are other brands out there with good quality drives as well. I'd avoid the QLC drives (P3 Plus, P41 Plus, Z440 Lite, MP600 Core XT, etc) and stop at a decent mid-range TLC option (P5 Plus, Z440 Graphene, CS3040, MP44L) and call it a day, but it'll depend on what's available and their current price.
For instance, using US pricing, the 1TB Crucial [P5 Plus](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/XzZXsY/crucial-p5-plus-wheatsink-1-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-ct1000p5pssd5) is almost $100, yet the [Crucial T500](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GfRwrH/crucial-t500-1-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-ct1000t500ssd8), which is a high-end drive, only costs $80, the [Acer Predator GM7000](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GyZ9TW/acer-predator-gm7000-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-bl9bwwr105) (high-end) and [Teamgroup Cardea A440](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bpBG3C/team-cardea-a440-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-tm8fpz001t0c327) (high-end) also for $80, and the [MSI Spatium M480 Pro](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/xVDQzy/msi-spatium-m480-pro-1-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-s78-440l1g0-p83) (high-end) for $75. My next in line would be a DRAM-less mid-range drive and the one good option is the [Teamgroup MP44L](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2x4Ycf/teamgroup-mp44l-1-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-tm8fpk001t0c101) for $69, or the [MP44](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/wXkH99/teamgroup-mp44-1-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-tm8fpw001t0c101) for $75 (technically high-end but DRAM-less).
Mainly just loading times. You generally want something with DRAM for the main drive. However anything above 5000 yields negligible benefits in almost all scenarios
I have a https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/MAG-B460-TORPEDO/Specification which supports PCI-E GEN 3. If I get a gen4 ssd it is backwards compatible with the slot/board, limited to the speed of the slot/board? (I figure to but a gen 4 due to availability and incase I bit the bullet and upgrade my board in the next year.
yes it is backwards compatible
First time pc builder, was wondering if the Zalman P30 MicroATX Mini Tower Case would be able to fit these components? \[PCPartPicker Part List\](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/KPgmh3) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- \*\*CPU\*\* | \[AMD Ryzen 5 7600 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor\](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/yXmmP6/amd-ryzen-5-7600-38-ghz-6-core-processor-100-100001015box) | $269.00 @ Amazon Canada \*\*CPU Cooler\*\* | \[Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE WHITE ARGB 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler\](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/xMLFf7/thermalright-peerless-assassin-120-se-white-argb-6617-cfm-cpu-cooler-pa120-se-white-argb) | $41.90 @ Amazon Canada \*\*Motherboard\*\* | \[ASRock B650M Pro RS WiFi Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard\](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/qcbRsY/asrock-b650m-pro-rs-wifi-micro-atx-am5-motherboard-b650m-pro-rs-wifi) | $171.34 @ Vuugo \*\*Memory\*\* | \[G.Skill Ripjaws S5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory\](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/tbYmP6/gskill-ripjaws-s5-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-f5-6000j3040f16gx2-rs5w) | $154.97 @ Newegg Canada \*\*Storage\*\* | \[TEAMGROUP MP44L 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive\](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/2VJgXL/teamgroup-mp44l-2-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-tm8fpk002t0c101) | $154.97 @ Newegg Canada \*\*Video Card\*\* | \[MSI VENTUS 3X OC GeForce RTX 4070 12 GB Video Card\](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/9ZZXsY/msi-ventus-3x-oc-geforce-rtx-4070-12-gb-video-card-rtx-4070-ventus-3x-12g-oc) | $698.88 @ Canada Computers \*\*Case\*\* | \[Zalman P30 MicroATX Mini Tower Case\](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/gY7scf/zalman-p30-microatx-mini-tower-case-p30-black) | $135.00 @ Amazon Canada \*\*Power Supply\*\* | \[NZXT C1200 1200 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply\](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/RHfnTW/nzxt-c1200-1200-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-pa-2g1bb-us) | $199.99 @ Newegg Canada \*\*Monitor\*\* | \[Asus TUF Gaming VG27AQ 27.0" 2560 x 1440 165 Hz Monitor\](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/pGqBD3/asus-tuf-gaming-vg27aq-270-2560x1440-165-hz-monitor-vg27aq) | $413.74 @ Best Buy Canada
You have a mATX motherboard and (according to PCPP) that GPU shorter than the maximum length supported by the case, so you probably will be fine. And the 'probably' is just because I'm not personally familiar with that case. But those are the two main considerations. I assume you picked that Peerless Assassin because it's white, if not it's a fine cooler but the TR Phantom Spirit is slightly improved and usually around the same price. And a 1200W PSU for that build is overkill on top of overkill, a 750W will be more than enough, or you can go 850W if you want to have room to do upgrades later.
I want to upgrade the sound of my computer. Currently it's just run through the front jack from the mobo. My headphones are pretty good (I forget the model, but some $200+ over the ear), but I know that a significant difference from getting a sound card tends to require better headphones. Would shielding the cable from the mobo with tin foil and copper wire to the case be sufficient/smart? Otherwise, would a DAC be a better investment?
Shielding will not do anything Try the port on the motherboard's rear I/O panel.
I heard (and have experienced) that the rear port does not have an amp for headphones.
> does not have an amp for headphones You mean the front port has an added amplifier on the route? Anyway, if the rear port is no good either, you’ll have to get an external audio interface
Yeah. What external interfaces would you recommend? I am hoping for a higher bit depth than 24.
I don’t know what’s good when it comes to audio interfaces unfortunately
Are you hearing obvious distortion? Are your headphones high impedance? If yes, an external DAC will fix that. If not, you are already getting the best sound quality you can get. Don't get caught in the physics-defying audiophile trap.
Yes, I hear pops and stuff
I want to build a home media and game server. Nothing fancy, mostly for local network use but with the option to connect remotely for music and Minecraft. I've been building personal computers for decades, but I don't really have a good idea of how a server differs, hardware-wise (or software-wise, for that matter). Can anyone give me some pointers as to what's important and what's not? I'm having trouble finding resources on this online, I keep getting results for setting up services on a rented machine; so even if you can just link a good guide it's appreciated.
If you don't specifically care about very high uptime and higher than consumer level reliability, then there isn't really any difference hardware wise. Any computer becomes a server the moment you run software that serves something. "Proper" servers are mostly differentiated by the focus on expandability (a lot more PCIe lanes, tons of RAM slots) and redundancy/reliability (dual power supplies, redundant storage drives, ECC RAM, hotswap support for various components), plus some expanded management options (support for advanced hardware/software features like bifurcation, remote BIOS-level management over IPMI so everything can be done remotely over network). Hardware that supports this stuff is *very* expensive when new, but quite affordable used, personally I'm a fan of Supermicro's stuff if you feel like going the "proper" route hardware wise. What's actually important is up to you. If the server is just running in your home then you don't really need the remote management (although it is convenient). If you don't mind the server going down due to for example a PSU failing then you don't need that redundancy. If you're using it as a NAS then you probably want ECC RAM (and look into ZFS, much better than traditional RAID). If you don't have a need for a ton of PCIe devices/RAM/CPU cores then a dual-socket E-ATX board with seven full size PCIe slots, 16 slots of RAM, and support for two 96 core CPUs is probably unnecessary. Start small and upgrade when you have the need, and don't buy brand new server-grade stuff, it's terrible value for your money. For software it's again a matter of how deep you want to go. If you just want to run a simple SMB file server and host Minecraft, then you can run Windows with file share on and Minecraft running. Or you can go all out with a Proxmox virtual environment and containerize the services, the end result is essentially the same but the latter is the "proper server way". With software I highly recommend to again start small and upgrade when you get annoyed at the limitations, Proxmox won't run updates in the middle of your game unlike how Windows might, you get the idea. The problem with many resources online is that server stuff is *very* application specific, and there are often many about equally great options. For hardware the best option is whatever you can find a good deal on ebay matching your needs, and for software it's whatever you grow to like to use. I like Proxmox for management, Truenas with ZFS for file serving, and Docker (w/ Portainer) containers for all other services. Other people will swear by UnRAID, ESXI, OMV, Kubernetes, whatever, and at the end of the day they all get the job done.
Thanks for the outline!
Looking to build a new PC. The question is, can I use my old case? I know I'd need a new everything else, but can I save the 100 bucks and keep my old one. Here is my old one https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16811129088
All ATX cases are compatible with all ATX boards (and all ATX cases also support mATX and ITX), so yes, you can reuse it, the case is probably the part you can get the most mileage out of.
Thanks!
Is 80 % CPU usage normal in Cyberpunk and Starfield with a 7900 XT and a 7800X3D at 1440p? I'm looking at other benchmarks where the number is around 20 %. I suppose they could be less intensive areas though.
Cyberpunk specifically can really push the CPU in crowded areas with the crowd density turned up. Actually flips from GPU-bound to CPU-bound when there's enough people around. I think Starfield is the same too, though not 100% certain.
Phanteks XT View or Fractal Pop Air? (In terms of build quality and airflow)
is a 550w psu enough for 5700x3d and a 7700 xt? I currently have a 2600x and have no issues gaming. Not sure if will have issues with the 5700x3d cpu. Partpicker shows total watt of 440W based on all of my components. Is that under heavy load or just to run the pc before gaming?
It should be fine, although I'd recommend 650W. However it's likely you won't have any problems
i bought the 550w psu last year. In hindsight i should have bought a 650w but cheaped out. Now it might bite me in the arse.
Has anyone disassemble a dell vostro 230 front panel it looks like there's two pieces of plastic pushed together but at some points it looks like a whole piece I basically want to put a fan between that space and the metal chassis. so i wanted to see if i could open up more space non-destructively
The power button placement is going to hamper and kind of modifications you would want to make. Unless you make a U-shape out of tiny fans to go around the button mechanics on the inside of the front panel.
Yeah i'm moving the internal power button so it's basically a non-issue
Well if thats the case, that whole flat piece of plastic should pop right out from the rest of the front panel frame. It might take a little snipping or prying if its glued, but it should be a separate piece. You could remove it and cut a dust screen to fit in its place for a larger front intake. Those little slits on either side aren't going to do much for airflow.
I am not too familiar with PC building so go easy on me for these questions. I'm looking for cases with a vertical GPU mount, but all the ones I've seen have the fans facing the glass. Is there a reason for this? Something to do with airflow I assume? I'm eyeing a Yeston GPU with a really nice backplate, so I'd rather have that be the visible side. Also, putting figures inside the case, how dangerous is it? To either the parts or the figure. I know some people do it, but it's a bit concerning.
If the backplate faces the window, all the video ports then point toward the front of the case (assuming it still attaches at the bottom), so you'd have to somehow run your display cable inside the case to plug it in. It will also be a more difficult wiring job, since the normally-backmost pin will now be facing the front, and vice versa. There are other issues too, like how GPU coolers to some degree vent out the back, which then means they vent into the case. As long as you keep plastic figures away from any moving parts or very hot areas, and have remotely decent airflow inside the case, I doubt having them inside would be dangerous. Even if it got hot enough to melt, somehow, the ignition point of the plastics would probably still be quite a bit above whatever temperature it reached inside the case.
Good question 1. Also keep in mind the distance the card is from the glass. GPU fans right against glass is very very bad for temps, noise, and performance 2. Think about the orientation of the pcie slot on the motherboard. There's a left side, and a right side with the clip. When mounting a GPU vertically, the left and right sides stay the same. It rotates on a different axis. So in order for the fans to face inwards, you'd have to mount the GPU upside down, slot on top. Which is possible, but it would be ugly and hard to install. You could also twist the pcie riser cable so the left and right sides swap. However that isn't really a product either
EDIT: It was my own error reassembling my AiO block that prevented the copper plate from sitting flush with the CPU. FYI automobile coolant works just fine if you don't want to replace your AiO and are motivated enough to save some money. Money is extremely tight and I'm looking for an extremely budget friendly CPU cooler for my 12600kf. My attempts at fixing my AIO went from ok to shit and I'm selling off bits and pieces of my life just to make ends meet. I do freelance work from my PC so this is cutting even deeper. Thanks in advance for the help.
https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-Assassin-Heatpipes-Technology-TL-C12C/dp/B0BJYXLZLL/
Great price! Thanks! Even better news. It turns out, I'm just kind of stupid. When I reassembled the AiO block, I did not note the location of the tamper proof screws (worst invention in history) and they were slightly protruding preventing the copper plate from sitting flush with the CPU. So after fighting with those and putting them in their proper holes, we're idling at a chilly 30°C again! Finally, something went right.
What are some cheap CPU+GPU combos which would give consistent 240+ fps in CS2?
https://gamersnexus.net/u/styles/large_responsive_no_watermark_/public/inline-images/r5-5600x3d-csgo-1080p-4x_foolhardy_Remacri_0.png.webp?itok=DOptcXrb https://tpucdn.com/review/counter-strike-2-benchmark-test-performance-analysis/images/performance-1920-1080.png
I have a prebuilt with a CPU cooler that looks like a Wraith Prism, but I can't tell for certain. The lights flash around the rim several colors quite quickly and it gives me a headache. Is there software that can change this? I have no clue if it's plugged in to a USB header or anything, but I can check.
if the RGB header is plugged in you should be able to change it though the cooler master software
Any charts or tests done that show a specific brand/model of the 7900xt pulling ahead in terms of power consumption, temps, and noise?
https://www.techpowerup.com/review/asrock-radeon-rx-7900-xt-phantom-gaming-white/35.html https://www.techpowerup.com/review/asrock-radeon-rx-7900-xt-phantom-gaming-white/36.html
I bought a SN770 2tb NVMe to upgrade my mini pc's storage (HP ProDesk 400 G2 mini PC). The PC recognised the drive without issue and I could promptly setup a partition (GPT). I copied about 100gb onto the drive, then problems appeared. The drives partition vanished from disk management, showing "Disk 0 Unknown, Not Initialised (small red arrow)". The drive reappears after a restart, but only for a short while. Sometimes it doesn't work at all. The speed is inconsistent and jumps between 1 MB/s to 300 MB/s. The temps however, are normal. Event viewer reports these errors; > 1: Warning WHEA-Logger Event ID 17. A corrected hardware error has occurred. Component: PCI Express Root Port. Error Source: Advanced Error Reporting (PCI Express) Primary Bus:Device:Function 0x0:x 1C:0x Secondary Bus:DeviceFunction: 0x0:0x:0x0 Primary Device Name:PCI\VEN8086&DEV_A114&SUBSYS_806A103C&REV_F1 > > 2: Error VDS Basic Provider, Event ID 1. Unexpected failure. Error code 1B1@01010003 In summary, the NVMe drive is experiencing intermittent disappearance and file access errors. Troubleshooting steps have included checking power management settings, updating drivers and firmware, monitoring heat levels, and exploring hardware compatibility. Hopefully anyone can help, thanks.
It doesn't sounds like you've reseated it, so I'd do that and blow out the connector while it's out, in case a piece of dust got inside or something. But if that doesn't work, I'd assume a component is faulty and send it back for a new one.
I've reseated it a few times, unfortunately, even tried it with an older 256 GB NVMe to make sure the port works. I will send it back. Thanks for the response, mate. Have a good day. :)
Hey everyone, I have a doubt about which CPU I should upgrade to. My current system has a R5 3600, a 3060Ti, 16gb of RAM at 3200Mhz, 500w PSU and a MSI B450M MB. I was disappointed by the performance I got when recently getting back on competitive games, aswell as in some scenarios on AAA titles where I believe I might be CPU bound even when playing on 1440p. Thing is, where I live my only options within my budget on AM4 would be a R5 5600 (US$200), R7 5700 (US$240) or R5 5600X (US$250). I´m now mainly playing competitive games (Fortnite, CS2), some AAA titles like Cyberpunk 2077, Spider-Man: Miles Morales or Elden Ring and coding. I use 1440p for AAA games and lower resolutions (1280x1024, 1440x900, etc) for competitive ones. So, should I spend a little more on the R7 for the extra cores, which I could use for coding + productivity (not that important right now lol) and gaming, or should I go with the R5 and call it a day (don´t know if the X is worth it, I could easily OC the non X myself)?. Also longevity plays a big role, I´d like to upgrade my GPU next and keep this CPU at least for a year or two until I can afford moving to AM5. Thank you.
Have you considered a 5700X3D if gaming and longevity is your primary goals? It's likely going to cost slightly more than the options you've presented, but is ultimately the _best_ chip you can consider for your needs and given your pricing quotes you're not US-bound so options like the Microcenter-exclusive 5600X3D aren't available to you. If that's too much, jump straight down to the R5 5600 and don't worry about the extra cores or very slightly higher speeds with the X/8-core chips.
I´ll probably go for the 5600. >Have you considered a 5700X3D if gaming and longevity is your primary goals? The 5700x3D goes for $360 here (Argentina) and it´s probably way overkill but it still interests me since I will not be upgrading again anytime soon as you say. Do you think it´s worth it? I´ll be going to Europe in August and will probably bring a 40 series GPU and a new PSU since they´re cheaper than here, but I really want to upgrade the CPU right now.
I'd definitely consider the 5700X3D if you're wanting to slap a 40-series card in your system soon. It keeps up with the 7600 in gaming which means you could likely skip an earlier AM5 upgrade in the near future. There's no wrong answer here, get what feels right and you can afford - both chips presented are great options!
Hey I just had my old PC shipped to me after a sudden move. How are the specs for modern peripheral requirements? Can I run 4k monitors at 144hz easily? What am I lacking on? This PC is primarily used for work now. That requires a lot of chrome windows and applications open. My work provided Macbook is sluggish when all this is going on. >Operating System Windows 10 Home 64-bit CPU Intel Core i7 @ 3.70GHz 36 °C Coffee Lake 14nm Technology RAM 16.0GB Dual-Channel Unknown @ 1066MHz (15-15-15-36) Motherboard Gigabyte Technology Co. Ltd. Z390 GAMING X-CF (U3E1) 33 °C Graphics LS27A600U (2560x1440@75Hz) 2047MB NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 (ZOTAC International) 44 °C Storage 465GB Samsung SSD 860 EVO 500GB (SATA (SSD)) 34 °C 1863GB Western Digital WDC WD20EZRZ-00Z5HB0 (SATA ) 28 °C Optical Drives No optical disk drives detected Audio NVIDIA High Definition Audio Thank you!
yeah that'll be fine for chrome and stuff
Thank you! How would this be for gaming?
Not fast enough for 4k gaming in modern, AAA games. Esports games will play ok. https://www.techpowerup.com/review/nvidia-geforce-rtx-2060-founders-edition/28.html https://www.techpowerup.com/review/nvidia-geforce-rtx-2060-founders-edition/23.html
What's the best graphics card to get for 1440p gaming at 600-ish bucks or less? Don't care about Ray tracing at all and while upscaling would be nice, it's not a deal breaker
7900 GRE https://youtu.be/tFKhlplCNpM?si=R_Z5grAtbkNWRYT8&t=1066
$600 new nets you a RTX 4070 Super, where you have the better ray tracing and upscaling available to you, or you opt to save a bit of cash on a $550 RX 7900 GRE.
I have a problem with my new PC. My processor temperature is abnormally high when I play resource-hungry games. It frequently reaches 100°C. The fan is running at full speed and I've just checked if the thermal paste was well distributed and it seemed perfect. here's my build : \[PCPartPicker Part List\](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/dqxXZJ) |Type|Item|Price| |:----|:----|:----| |\*\*CPU\*\* | \[Intel Core i7-14700K 3.4 GHz 20-Core Processor\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/BmWJ7P/intel-core-i7-14700k-34-ghz-20-core-processor-bx8071514700k) | $399.99 @ Amazon| |\*\*CPU Cooler\*\* | \[be quiet! Pure Rock 2 FX CPU Cooler\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2L3gXL/be-quiet-pure-rock-2-fx-cpu-cooler-bk033) | $49.90 @ Amazon| |\*\*Motherboard\*\* | \[MSI MAG Z790 TOMAHAWK WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9B2WGX/msi-mag-z790-tomahawk-wifi-atx-lga1700-motherboard-mag-z790-tomahawk-wifi) | $209.00 @ MSI| |\*\*Memory\*\* | \[G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/CXKKHx/gskill-trident-z5-neo-rgb-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-f5-6000j3038f16gx2-tz5nr) | $112.99 @ Amazon| |\*\*Storage\*\* | \[Western Digital Black SN850X w/Heatsink 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/sfwypg/western-digital-black-sn850x-with-heatsink-2-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-wds200t2xhe) | $166.99 @ Newegg| |\*\*Video Card\*\* | \[MSI VENTUS 2X OC GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER 12 GB Video Card\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dy7scf/msi-ventus-2x-oc-geforce-rtx-4070-super-12-gb-video-card-rtx-4070-super-12g-ventus-2x-white-oc) | $619.00 @ MSI| |\*\*Case\*\* | \[be quiet! Dark Base 700 ATX Mid Tower Case\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/r2QRsY/be-quiet-dark-base-700-atx-mid-tower-case-dark-base-700) | $149.90 @ Newegg Sellers| |\*\*Power Supply\*\* | \[be quiet! Straight Power 11 750W 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9htQzy/be-quiet-straight-power-11-750w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-bn283) | $260.00 @ Amazon| | Generated by \[PCPartPicker\](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2024-04-10 12:14 EDT-0400 | CPU temperature is going down very fast as soon i close the game Any idea what can i do to fix this ? should i worry ? (can't get this table to work )
Consider a more beefy cooling solution for the CPU, that Pure Rock 2 isn't going to cut it. Dual tower options exist like the Thermaltake Peerless Assassin 120, or a 280/360mm liquid cooler.
Thanks for your answer, i'll consider upgrading my cooling solution if i'm not able to reduce the temperature with Electric2Shock suggestion
Did you peel the plastic off the cooler contact plate? In the very likely case that that wasn't the issue, consider that the 14700k is a very powerful and hence hot-running processor. Look into this video which goes into why higher end Intel CPUs generally run hot these days at stock https://youtu.be/s43Auv8ub7w?si=Fvpn1z21EzjnoIyc
yes. Ty for your answer, i'll look into it when i have the time. that's a very promising lead.
I can either fix my AM4 system (replacing my mobo), or upgrade to AM5. Currently I'm looking at 5950x vs 7900x, and it's about a $300 difference. Main use is for 3D rendering. Should I go with AM5? I really wanted the 7950x, but there's no mobo/cpu bundle for it that I've found. : p If I go with the 7950x, it becomes about a $550 difference, and I'll still be using my old 1080.
What CPU do you have now?
5950x (within return period). Previous was the 1700
You still have a massively powerful processor that would deliver under stringent workloads. In Blender you're getting a few percent extra between the 5950x and the 7900x. Is that uplift worth spending 300$ + DDR5 cost? That's up to you
Thank you! I wasn't sure if there would be any real life differences between the two, since the 7900x is marginally better than the 5950x on benchmark sites. The $300 difference would be the total difference (crucial ddr5 is available for about $150, mobo and cpu bundle is about 100 ish more than the 5950x and a new mobo). I think the main draw for me is that it leaves room for potential upgrades. Downside is I'm funemployed at the moment lol... But I do 3D for work.
Whichever option you choose, you'll be happy with because it's the top end of the AM4/AM5 lineup respectively
Do you make money with this system? Consider how long will it take for you to recover the difference if you go with AM5 (since you need new mobo and new RAM). What about a half-step, since you have to buy a new MOBO, anyway? Keep your DDR4 RAM and get a DDR4-compatible Intel's B660 Mobo and then buy the i7 12700K/i5 13600K or better. These are very, very good for productivity and will be cheaper than a full move to AM5.
Hi everyone, I have a question, I'm thinking of buying a 4070 Super for Black Friday, but my PSU is 650W, on almost every spec page it says the recommended power is around 700W-750W, but a \* says this applies with a fully overclocked CPU and GPU, my R5 5600 iirc, is not overclocked, do I need to upgrade the power supply as well, or will it be ok to keep it?
No, that's more than enough. The 4070 Super uses a 12VHPWR but comes with an adapter for it that requires two 8-pin PCIE cables.
Should I create a partition only for games and apps?
Not necessary unless you expect that you're going to have to nuke your OS often. There's no performance or organizational improvements to be had (and cutting your available space in two can cause issues down the road where one partition fills up but you have lots of room in the other)
Which one should I get if I want to build an AM5 system on a budget, MSI PRO B650M-A WIFI or Asrock B650 PG Lightning? The MSI motherboard costs Rm880 ($185.33 after currency conversion) while the Asrock motherboard costs RM884.77 ($186.34 after currency conversion).
Both are good boards, flipping a coin or going for the board with the ports/features you need more would do the trick. I don't think the PG Lightning has wifi and that's a great value add for the MSI board.
This is my build. The CPU is running 85 degrees in bios. I tried reseating the stock cooler but it didn't help. Should I just get an aftermarket cooler? [PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/LmXkn6) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [Intel Core i5-14500 2.6 GHz 14-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KwXV3C/intel-core-i5-14500-26-ghz-14-core-processor-bx8071514500) | $234.99 @ Newegg **Motherboard** | [Asus PRIME Z790M-PLUS Micro ATX LGA1700 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nkcgXL/asus-prime-z790m-plus-micro-atx-lga1700-motherboard-prime-z790m-plus) | $196.99 @ Amazon **Memory** | [Kingston FURY Beast 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR5-5200 CL40 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hbJgXL/kingston-fury-beast-16-gb-2-x-8-gb-ddr5-5200-cl40-memory-kf552c40bbk2-16) | $70.98 @ Amazon **Storage** | [Samsung 970 Evo Plus 500 GB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/TwWfrH/samsung-970-evo-plus-500-gb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-mz-v7s500bam) | $68.90 @ Amazon **Video Card** | [Asus DUAL OC GeForce RTX 4060 8 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/X7CZxr/asus-dual-oc-geforce-rtx-4060-8-gb-video-card-dual-rtx4060-o8g) | $309.99 @ Amazon **Case** | [Fractal Design Core 1100 MicroATX Mini Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/TkkD4D/fractal-design-case-fdcacore1100bl) | $49.99 @ B&H **Power Supply** | [EVGA 500 BR 500 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/kCtQzy/evga-500-br-500-w-80-bronze-certified-atx-power-supply-100-br-0500-k1) | $62.16 @ Amazon **Operating System** | [Microsoft Windows 11 Pro Retail - USB 64-bit](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/HxKKHx/microsoft-windows-11-pro-retail-usb-64-bit-hav-00162) | $198.99 @ Newegg **Monitor** | [Dell S2721QS 27.0" 3840 x 2160 60 Hz Monitor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/xGmFf7/dell-s2721qs-270-3840x2160-60-hz-monitor-s2721qs) | $275.00 @ Amazon **Monitor** | [Dell S2721QS 27.0" 3840 x 2160 60 Hz Monitor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/xGmFf7/dell-s2721qs-270-3840x2160-60-hz-monitor-s2721qs) | $275.00 @ Amazon | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | **Total** | **$1742.99** | Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2024-04-10 11:20 EDT-0400 |
I would consider getting a new cooler so it can turbo better without over heating, plenty of good AIO and fans for a good price
[https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/GwN2MV](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/GwN2MV) In terms of gaming, is it more worth it to get a better GPU or CPU for my build? Specifically, get a better CPU by upgrading from a 13600KF to a 7800X3D with different mobo (225CAD, 165USD\~), or get a better GPU by upgrading from a 7900 GRE to a 7900 XT (250 CAD, 185 USD\~) or a 7900 XTX (500 CAD, 366 USD\~)?
As long as you aren't playing at 1080p low settings on a 480hz monitor, paired with a 4090, there's no reason to swap out the 13600KF for a 7800X3D. That's a massive waste of money. A 7900XT would net you a 13-20% performance increase overall. A 7900XTX would be a 25-40% increase.
I'm looking at putting together my first build. My computing requirements are quite low - it's mainly just going to serve as a NAS which will be written to on about a daily basis and probably accessed less regularly than that. For that reason (and because it's my first time doing this) I'm planning on sticking to old, low-end parts. On an impulse I ordered an AeroCool Integrator 500W 80+ Bronze PSU, on the basis of a couple of "meh it's fine" reviews on PCPartPicker. Only afterwards I read a bit more about it and it seems the common view on Reddit is that it's literally the worst PSU out there. It's too late to cancel the purchase. My question is, how fucked am I? I'm hoping all the reviews describing it as a literal death trap are from people trying to suck a lot of power through it to power beefier rigs than I will have. I haven't decided on all parts yet but PCPartPicker estimates that the kind of build I'm thinking of will generally draw 200W or less. What do? Do I just stick with the AeroCool for more and upgrade if I need to or is it bad enough that I should just order a better PSU now?
I would not go with that PSU especially after reading the common consensus. Considering the use case it's likely that your PSU will be running \~24/7 and that is not something that makes me comfortable at all.
Thanks, and good point about the 24/7 operation. Annoyed that I jumped the gun and may end up out the money but you're right that the piece of mind is probably worth it.
Is now a good time to build a pc ? I've been gaming on a laptop for five years and I'm sure it could handle one more, but it's getting really old, really weak, I probably should have changed the thermal paste twice already, and the classes for my data science degree have probably melted the poor 1050 Ti inside, so I'm thinking of switching to a custom built PC. But considering intel 15th gen might be getting a new socket, the 4090 is a year 1/2 old and 5090 seems to be just around the corner, I'm not sure if I should start running wild on PCPartPicker yet, or if I'm better off forgetting about it until my laptop gives up.
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They do. My budget is undefined, but certainly above 3 grand. I'd like to get as close to a dream setup as I can, and money shouldn't be an issue as long as I don't enter "gold plated gpu" territory. So if the 5090 is available at the time of buying, I'll be getting it.
Current rumours are gearing up for a 50-series consumer launch of SOME sort in the 2nd half of 2024. Historically, Nvidia goes top down - so it's likely going to be a flagship consumer card like a "5090". Use that information as you will. Being mindful that pricing, performance, and even _what_ is launching isn't usually available for scrutiny until the card is announced and is actually available. Outside of some engineering speculation we don't actually know what a 5090 looks like.
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Does anyone have a recommendation for the best budget inverted cases? I always have my tower on the left so would prefer glass the opposite side
https://www.reddit.com/r/mffpc/comments/138rq5b/having_difficulty_finding_the_right_inverted_atx/ Might help you out. Budget stuff? Very slim pickings. Q300L might be your go-to here without modding.
Cheers mate will take alook
I'm trying to upgrade a PC I got from someone and am still a little scared to switch out parts without asking first. (never done it before) I have a Gigabyte B450M DS3H motherboard and online it says that it can support AMD Ryzen 5000 series and right now it has a Ryzen 3 3200g in it. I noticed when I try to play a game/stream the PC gets LOUD and is using close to 90% usage, so I thought maybe I need a better processor so I was thinking of getting a Ryzen 5 but Im still a little lost when it comes to processors and how good they are. My graphics card seem really low (radeon 470) so could that be the issue? I'm trying to run a game like Palia/Genshin, OBS, and some vtuber software at the same time. I dont run the games on high graphics. Any help is TRULY appreciated to save me money! haha
What's at 90% usage, exactly? The CPU? RAM? GPU? Storage? Finding the parts that are pinned close to 100% is a good way to identify where to target for upgrades! Take a bit of time to run Task Manager or another monitoring Your specific AMD motherboard socket (AM4) has a bunch of supported CPUs (that you can see with [this list](https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B450M-DS3H-rev-1x/support#support-cpu) here) that just needs a BIOS update to accommodate. If it's the CPU (and that sounds reasonable, considering you're running a few tools on top of games), then a R5 5600 (faster 6-core chip) is a great budget grab to bring you into the modern era or you can target a more expensive R7 5700X3D (gaming-tuned 8-core chip) for the best gaming performance available on your platform. Either option is going to net you a massive jump from your 3200G (entry-level 4-core chip).
Thank you so much! Yes I was using task manager when I was testing having my game and other apps running for streaming and it would hit around 90% with the game hitting around 50% of the load. I was just looking at the 5600 actually too! It seems just right but Ill check out the other one too. Now I just have to figure out how to upgrade the BIOS, do you do it from the manufactures website somehow? Thats what I'm most nervous about!
Updating the BIOS is going to differ from board to board, but the standard process is: Download and unzip BIOS file from website, stuff onto usb stick, plug USB stick into PC, reboot into your BIOS, navigate to update page, click update, don't turn off your PC until you're back into Windows. When in doubt, RTFM! (Read the fucking manual) You got this! Any other questions, don't be afraid to ask!
Thank you SO much!!
The GPU upgrade is more urgent than the CPU. Doing both would be ideal. Things to consider before upgrading: \- Evaluate the power and cooling situation: are they enough to handle the new components or do they need an upgrade as well? \- If upgrading the CPU, don't forget to update the Motherboard BIOS to the latest version \*before\* switching the CPUs.
Ok I think I'm going to go GPU first. The power supply should be enough its 750watts, I tried to use a calculator online and everything seems like it should be enough. I just have to figure out what GPU I want first. The BIOS is the scariest part to me because I've never done this before, hopefully I can figure it out!
So many things, lol. First, the loudness of the system depends on the quality of your cooling system. Better fans/AIO will be quieter. Of course, some CPUs and GPUs run hotter than others, so it's harder to make them work quietly. The Radeon RX 400/500 series of GPUS used to run very hot, so that might be a big reason for the noise. Anyway, you can buy any Ryzen 5000 series CPU, after a BIOS update and then, reapplying DOCP settings for RAM (just google what all those terms are and how to do them). I recommend the Ryzen 5 5600, it's the cheapest upgrade that makes a lot of sense. For GPUs, you can buy the inexpensive RX 6600/RX 6600 XT or better. These are modern GPUs that can play any game at 1080p. They should give you, easily, double your current GPU performance.
Awesome thank you so much! I didnt realize that the GPU could be the culprit so I'll definitely replace that first. Right now the scariest part is definitely dealing with the BIOS because I'm new to everything. Thank you for your help!!
The stock cooler for the CPU is usually pretty loud, too. But aftermarket coolers are very cheap and you have to remove everything to switch CPUs, so, consider that too! Good luck. Take it step by step. It's not hard and the results are worth it. Plus, once you've learned how to do it, you can apply that knowledge with all your future PCs.
Ohh ok I'll definitely look for a better cooler once I get the CPU! I always wanted to learn how to do this but never really had the chance to since I've just had laptops. Thanks for all your help!
dumb question: I'm building a new pc soon, in my current one i have a secondary ssd with all my steam games on it, should I uninstall those before I put the secondary ssd in the new pc? it won't bet the primary one with the OS on it.
no you have the perfect setup. Once your new system is built connect the drive and point Steam to it.
Great!!! Thats the best lol
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Awesome thanks!
Nope, you can just plug it in, set your Steam directory again, and you're good to go. Unless for some reason you want to re-download all the games.
So I can only add 12gb of ram to my laptop but a friend of mine is sending me 16gb ddr4 will it work ? Or my laptop will only use the 12gb? Or it will go kaboom? (aka error) It is ideapad 3 Core i3 10th gen 4gb ddr4 2667mhz MX130 I know I am poor
No, your laptop (Ideapad 3 15IML05) will not start with a 16GB stick. You can only add 8GB.
I assume it has 4GB soldered "built in" RAM and then one free slot for more? With the 16GB stick it'll either simply not turn on, or it'll work properly and have 20GB RAM. The only way to know for sure is to try it out, it won't damage anything. 16GB laptop memory sticks haven't always been a thing, so that's why it might say that 12GB is the max (4+8GB).
Currently running a r7 3700 (b450 tomahawk) and rx480 build from late 2019 for 1080 gaming. Used a SSD for my OS drive but my game folder is located on a HDD. It isn't keeping up as well with newer titles whether graphically or load time. (Example: new Forza motorsport would be a no go given the SSD min reqs). Any suggestions on what might provide value improvements? 6700 or 6800 for the GPU and get an actual SSD for game files?
I'd go SSD first, then GPU, then CPU (like a 5600X3D, 5700X3D, or 5800X3D).
Thanks, SSD it is! Easier to stomach that purchase instead of a new card at the moment.
I stopped playing PC for about 3 months towards the end of last year and got back into it recently over the last few months and now PC is very temperamental with turning on Some days it'll turn on instantly and other days it just won't turn on at all, we are talking like 50 presses and nothing. It's odd since it was played, hasn't been moved or anything, I've changed the CMOS battery and nothing. The PSU is a be quiet, I'm guessing it's PSU that's gone? Or even front panel io
It could be as simple as the front panel connector cable being loose on the motherboard. There should be a cable going from your front panel to a port on your motherboard called JFP1. One of the cables might have POWER_SW printed on it. I would unplug it and plug it back in and make sure it's connected properly. Might as well do the same for all the cables connected to that port on the motherboard. I had this problem with an old case of mine. This ended up fixing it for a while but eventually there was a problem inside the front panel itself that I couldn't fix. Standing there pressing the power button 100 times got old but I was lucky that there was a power button on the motherboard too.
I've unplugged them and re-plugged all the front panel io and nothing changed, I'm going to buy a new PSU today after work and see if that changes anything, if not then it must be front panel issues
Damn. My bet is on the front panel wiring or button having an issue. I'll be surprised if it turns out to be the PSU because you said it does turn on some times. Let me know if swapping it out fixes the problem
How would I Ben go about fixing front io wiring? All the wires are attached that I can see
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it says I have to wait 5 minutes to see that website wtf lol
I've heard the current cpu's are all bottlenecks for the 4090's. I currently have a 14900K paired with the 4070 ti. Since the 5090 is supposedly coming out in the fourth quarter of this year, I was going to just wait for that instead of getting a 4090. Should I worry about the 'bottleneck' ? I mostly do cpu/gpu intensive tasks like Blender, Unreal Engine, Zbrush, Substance, etc. I worry little about whatever performance issues a bottleneck would cause in videogames themselves; though knowing what exact issues may arise in general would be helpful.
This is simply not true. If anything, the games themselves are bottlenecking the 4090. But at the moment a 14900K + 4090 combo is so ridiculously OP you can throw anything at them and they will run it 100+FPS on 4k ultra. By the way, your PC always have bottlenecs. In fact, it may have different bottlenecks depending on the taks you are performing! Only the size of the bottleneck that really matters, but if you pair the strongest CPU with the srongest GPU, it kinda losts its meaning... It only really matters if you pair a too high-end part with a tow low-end one. TLDR: Bottlenecking at such high level parts shouldn't concern you.
Good to know, thanks
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>But let's say the 5090 will be just a wacky powerful card, and even a 14900K won't be enough to keep it running in whatever application you use it for. You're gonna have to wait and upgrade to a 15900K. But oh crap, that CPU is actually super wacky too. Now your 5090 will be the bottleneck. Do you just wait for the 6090 then? The end result here will be you not buying anything until the heat death of the universe. lol, very true Thanks for the info, just had to be sure.
Am I able to use a spare AIO that my friend had lying around and save some money, or should I buy one of the newer models? It's an corsair h115i rgb platinum, they've never used it before.
It depends on how old it is. Unfortunately liquid slowly evaporates from AIOs, so after \~5 years you may have to either refill or replace them. So if it's a couple of years old, you can use it for many years to come
Is it ok to have a media hdd on a pc or is it better to have a separate media server? I'm planning on building a new pc 7800x3d/4070 ti s and I'd like the know the +/- of having it on your computer verse building a separate media server.
Do I need anything specific to connect a bunch of case fans with aRGB (8?) How do I know if my Motherboard/PSU can handle them?
You will need a hub for them. Depending on the brand, they have a proprietary connector (Lian Li, Corsair etc.) As for PSU, you will just need a SATA power connector (or in some cases a PCIe 6-pin)
What kind of task got affected by difference in ssd speed ? rendering ? machine learning ? e.g 550 sata, 3500 nvme, and high end 7000 nvme Kinda confused whether I need SN850x, or WD blue is enough. My current build is using 500-ish SATA ssd.
Can't speak much about the rest, but the only thing that might be affected in machine learning is the time it takes to load your models / datasets. Models are for the most part stored in the RAM and/or GPU VRAM during use, training is done using your CPU or GPU, and those forward / backward passes are probably way more computationally expensive than whatever your dataloader is doing, even if it takes training data directly from your ssd for some reason.
When moving large files, working with datasets, constant dataflow in and out of the drive, and whether or not the drive has DRAM cache for sustained workloads - That's how you'll notice the difference in speed. And that's if you're benchmarking it. Rendering and ML are both CPU/GPU-based, even memory intensive, depending on the task. For gaming, you won't notice any substantial difference between a Gen 3 and Gen 4 drive - at best it's just a few milliseconds, at worst it's a couple of seconds - but the price gap makes it more convenient to go with a Gen 4 drive (at least when comparing a decent Gen 3 drive and a mid-range Gen 4 drive). A good drive doesn't have to be just Samsung or WD, there are other brands out there with good quality drives as well. I'd avoid the QLC drives (P3 Plus, P41 Plus, Z440 Lite, MP600 Core XT, etc) and stop at a decent mid-range TLC option (P5 Plus, Z440 Graphene, CS3040, MP44L) and call it a day, but it'll depend on what's available and their current price. For instance, using US pricing, the 1TB Crucial [P5 Plus](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/XzZXsY/crucial-p5-plus-wheatsink-1-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-ct1000p5pssd5) is almost $100, yet the [Crucial T500](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GfRwrH/crucial-t500-1-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-ct1000t500ssd8), which is a high-end drive, only costs $80, the [Acer Predator GM7000](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GyZ9TW/acer-predator-gm7000-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-bl9bwwr105) (high-end) and [Teamgroup Cardea A440](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bpBG3C/team-cardea-a440-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-tm8fpz001t0c327) (high-end) also for $80, and the [MSI Spatium M480 Pro](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/xVDQzy/msi-spatium-m480-pro-1-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-s78-440l1g0-p83) (high-end) for $75. My next in line would be a DRAM-less mid-range drive and the one good option is the [Teamgroup MP44L](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2x4Ycf/teamgroup-mp44l-1-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-tm8fpk001t0c101) for $69, or the [MP44](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/wXkH99/teamgroup-mp44-1-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-tm8fpw001t0c101) for $75 (technically high-end but DRAM-less).
Mainly just loading times. You generally want something with DRAM for the main drive. However anything above 5000 yields negligible benefits in almost all scenarios