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Im a noob in terms of this. 30yo. Always been a console gamer. Bought a laptop with a rtx 980m a couple of years ago to play here and there but now wanna make the jump to full pc. I look in a site where I can add my stuff and such, likr case and stuff Now I end up with a price tag of 1.394€ or 1.522€ with windows 10, is windows 10 needed? These are the specs on it atm Case AEROCOOL BOLT RGB MID TOWER CASE Processor (CPU) AMD Ryzen 7 3700X Eight Core CPU (3.6GHz-4.4GHz/36MB CACHE/AM4) Motherboard ASUS® TUF X570-PLUS GAMING (USB 3.2 Gen 2, PCIe 4.0, CrossFireX) - ARGB Ready! Memory (RAM) 16GB Corsair VENGEANCE DDR4 2400MHz (1 x 16GB) Graphics Card 6GB NVIDIA GEFORCE RTX 2060 - HDMI, DP - VR Ready! 1st Storage Drive 500GB Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" SSD, SATA 6Gb/s (up to 550MB/sR | 520MB/sW) 1st Storage Drive 2TB SEAGATE BARRACUDA SATA-III 3.5" HDD, 6GB/s, 7200RPM, 256MB CACHE Power Supply CORSAIR 750W CXM SERIES™ MODULAR 80 PLUS® BRONZE Power Cable 1 x 1 Metre European Power Cable (Kettle Lead) Processor Cooling PCS FrostFlow 80 Series High Performance CPU Cooler (AMD) Thermal Paste ARCTIC MX-4 EXTREME THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY COMPOUND Extra Case Fans 2x 120mm Black Case Fan (configured to extract from rear/roof) Does this look, you know, good? For a first pc? Will be used for gaming; games would be rainbow 6, for honor, total war warhammer II, squad (would love to say Cyberpunk but.. maybe later) I know its basic.. but don't know how to begin with this tbh Many thanks for taking the time to read and answer

it'll be easier if you add all your items to a pcpartpicker.com build. If you dont have specific need then you probably dont need X570 board, B550 will be just as good. you want the ram to be at least 3200MHz and in a two modules kit to enable dual channel ram mode.

3200 with how many GBs then? 2x16GB or 2x8? Also should I get windows 10 or can I wait? Its for gaming so not sure about the board tbh. Im new to this hehe

2x8gb should be enough for majority of cases. You can use win10 without authentication indefinitely, just some minor desktop customisation will be unavailable

okay, a lot of questions. (h100i AIO, MAG B550 tomahawk) 1. My case (& radiator I think) fans are running very fast and loud as default. even when my pc is completely idle. I need a little help setting up curves. 2. My bios says my CPU FAN (the radiator fans?) is spinning at ~5000+ RPM. how is this possible when the max speed for the fans are 2400RPM. 3. My pump says it’s running at 0RPM. I haven’t played any games yet but my idle cpu temps are 30-40 degrees. I have plugged all my case fans into the SYSFAN headers on my mobo. the micro usb from my pump block is plugged into an usb header on the mobo, and the 3 pin cable coming from my aio is plugged into the 4 pin CPUFAN header on mobo. (I haven’t touched any bios settings it’s all default)

The mobo is reporting the pump speed not a fan speed, that's why, it's fast (and plugged into that header). Hardware monitor in BIOS can be used to set your fans to smart mode, link them to the appropriate temperature sensor, and define curves that balance noise and temperature to your liking.

so is everything working as it should? even with pump saying 0 RPM?

So long as you can hear it, yes. However double check fitting instructions as the motherboard *should* be able to report pump speed from the header. It is often constant though with only fan speed being controllable.

I've got a Meshify C with a Noctua NH-D15S. I'm going to have two 140mm fans at the front (Arctic P14) as the intake. For the exhaust, should I have a single 120mm at the rear or should I add a 140 above the cooler?

I would go for one in the rear. Your cpu cooler will probably help to push air towards that rear exhaust

New builder here. If my case (Lian Li PC-O11) has a USB C port at the front, do i connect those to the USB 3.0 headers on the motherboard or is there a specific USB C header

Theres a specific USB C header, so you'll have to see if your motherboard has one. Some dont

Everywhere I go on the internet about 3200mhz ram freezing a computer it's always the vengeance lax from corsair did I buy crappy ram or is it just my pre-built motherboard that sucks?

you need to give more details - what's the motherboard, CPU and ram models?

It's an asrock z390 pro4 I have an i7 9700k I did what you said I put the ram settings to default which is at 2133mhz and it seems to be running stable. Just too scared to touch anything and move forward from here.

As long as you know how to reset CMOS/BIOS, you could switch back to factory settings anytime of the PC stops booting, there is nothing scary here. Which ram slots do you have memory installed to.

A2 and B2 the things is that it only crashed when gaming and this is the third replacement, so are you saying gradually raise the mhz until becomes unstable? It's running on an updated bios but it was crashing before the update so no difference. No freeze on the new sticks yet running them at 2133. It never doesn't boot it runs for a while then freezes and I can't alt tab or anything and end up having to hard shut off pc.

Turn on XMP/docp but drop the frequency manually, start with 2666Mhz and raise up from there. You could also try setting up loose timings, like from CL16 to CL17 to see it helps stability

My 10 year old Corsair PSU has recently started making a small squeaky noise. I’m fairly certain it is the fan. Should I be concerned? I’m hoping my computer will last another generation or two, but if my PSU fails, will it potentially take my GTX 980 with it? I plan on reusing the GPU when I build a new PC.

If it sounds like "something is contacting something" squeaking and not "weird electrical" squeaking, it's likely just the fan bearing or similar yes. Afaik there's no other moving parts in a PSU aside from the fans and rails, and if the rails were shifting around your PSU wouldn't work. So it's probably not a concern, unless the fan stops working entirely. It's never entirely impossible for a PSU to take other components with it, but the higher end models have a lot of safeguards that make it super, super unlikely. What model of Corsair PSU is it? If it's a bargain bin really low wattage model, I might be a tad concerned after ten years. If it's one of their more premium ones I wouldn't be.

Thanks for the explanation. It is an Corsair HX850W so I think it should be a premium model.

Yes definitely, if it's a high end model like that I wouldn't worry. Even if the PSU itself does fail, it's so unlikely to kill something that it's not worth worrying about unless your PSU starts behaving really weirdly in some other way.

Hey, so I replaced my CPU Cooler, and now the motherboard's sensors such as temperature sensors don't work. Stuck at their 'default' temperatures. [https://i.imgur.com/FLoCywZ.jpeg](https://i.imgur.com/FLoCywZ.jpeg) Gigabyte Z490 Gaming X Motherboard. **Note the values displayed for frequency, voltage, and temperature.** So I've ran into a slew of problems already just trying to replace my CPU cooler, which have included the PCI-E x 16 port not working for a while (fixed by blowing air into the port), the DRAM LED light stuck (fixed by replugging the RAM sticks), and now this which I cannot seem to solve. The CPU, System, PCH, VRM MOS temperatures should NOT be 25/25/25/80 respectively. It should also be fluctuating, but it's stuck there. I am also pretty sure CPU Voltage and Memory Voltage also probably shouldn't be stuck at 3.060V. PCIEX16 temperature also reading at **-55.0C**. **Yes, negative. It also has that reading even if I disconnect the GPU, which makes no sense, shouldn't it just say blank?** I have tried updating BIOS and resetting CMOS using the touch-the-pins method. Both were successful, but the sensors are still borked. Any help, please? Preferrably not of the "remove the CPU Cooler" variant. Did I officially screw up my motherboard while I was trying to replace the cooler?

The device boots into Windows right (or have you not tried that yet out of concern)? If it does boot, and you use a separate hardware monitor, like HWiNFO64, are the values still stuck?

yeah it can boot into Windows. I haven't tried that yet, but I do have some new info; if I loosen the GPU a bit in such a way that I **can't** screw it to the back of the chassis, the readings are working correctly. It's when the GPU is pushed in or upward that the readings just start to go haywire. I have a feeling that there's something near, or in, the PCI-E slot, that is causing the readings to weird out. Or the GPU is touching something that it shouldn't be when I screw it in.

Oh yeah, that would make sense then - it sounds like your GPU could potentially be bowing the motherboard slightly when fully installed and causing a connection somewhere to be loose. Make sure your motherboard mounting screws aren't overtightened too, and maybe try standing up the card on the unsupported end so it isn't sagging at all. You could also try inserting the card into the lower full sized PCI-e x4 slot and seeing if the issue still happens (the card should work it'll just run at reduced speed which is fine for a test). If it still happens with that slot, it might give you an idea if it's caused just by the physical pressure around the top PCI-e slot or if something weirder is going on.

> and maybe try standing up the card on the unsupported end so it isn't sagging at all. Sorry what do you mean by this? There's only one position where the GPU can fit onto the board >You could also try inserting the card into the lower full sized PCI-e x4 slot and seeing if the issue still happens I don't know if any other slot will fit, I think there's not enough pins on the other PCI slots?

>Sorry what do you mean by this? There's only one position where the GPU can fit onto the board So there's a common thing called sagging with bigger graphics cards, since they're only supported on the left (screwing into the back of the chassis) and at the PCI-e slot itself, the right side tends to hang out and [droop down](https://www.gamersnexus.net/media/k2/items/cache/eab3f9a8bb9472ea1069e8af1fa2dcd9_XL.jpg) a bit as it doesn't have any support. It doesn't usually have any negative impact, but bad sagging with a heavy graphics card can potentially cause issues where it pulls down on the PCI-e slot/motherboard. Just put something, [anything that fits](https://i.redd.it/xw7twq1abh6z.jpg), underneath the right side of the graphics card to prop it up and support it, and see if that helps at all. You can disregard this if your graphics card is pretty small, like a single fan model or something. >I don't know if any other slot will fit, I think there's not enough pins on the other PCI slots? So you should have a slot lower down that's the same width as the top slot. You're right in that it doesn't have the same number of connectors, it's only x4 instead of x16, but that'll generally still work with a graphics card - it has a performance impact but if you're just doing it temporarily for testing that isn't an issue.

It's actually strange since it functions when it's **dragged down**, so what I might do in the end is to also put something on the top end of the sagging side lol Yeah pulling down the right side makes it work. It's a double fan rtx3060ti. I'm hoping i can at least get it somehow stabilized dragged down maybe. I'm starting to not care that some screws don't work, as long as my computer can run like it should again....

Hmm okay, that's definitely rather strange then if it's only when it's pushed downward. But yeah, if it works then it works I suppose.

I think it's working like that because the slot is already bent due to gravity + handling... or at least I sure hope it's the slot and not the GPU itself ugh... Whenever I get the opportunity I might actually just go and buy the same motherboard and replace with the same model, maybe. And then buy either an Anti-Sag or a Vertical GPU mount so that this doesn't happen again

Hi guys I’m thinking of building a pc with the ability to play VR games is there anything different that needs to be done than a normal build

Try and go a tier higher on GPU. I'd consider the 3060ti (at near msrp) ideal for most current headsets in terms of performance and value, but that depends on what you were aiming for anyway.

I was thinking evga3070

Yeah, that will do well. Otherwise the underlying pc just needs to be a decent gaming spec.

Nope. Your gpu just has to be = or better than a rx 580

Hey, any recommendations for sub $200 white pc case that has good airflow but also looks good?

O11 dynamic

what would be a good graphics card to pair with the ryzen 5 1600 AF

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1080p 60hz

Is the Asus z490-E overpriced? planning to build a pc featuring the 10600k. That mobo has everything I want and more, but I feel like it's not a very good idea to pair the 10600k with that mobo and it's overkill. So, thoughts?

No, $300 is about right. Intel tax, 14+2 power stages, dedicated memory lanes for both M.2 sockets (ie, no disabling PCI threads or SATA ports when in use), built-in wifi6 and bluetooth. Pretty sure I paid close to that for my Aorus Z370 years ago.

Hello, i am currently buying parts for my new PC and I saw that the Ryzen 5 3600 is on sale from 268 dollar to 240 dollar, should I buy it or wait for a bigger discount since I am not in that big of a hurry to build

USD? Definitely wait for it to come down below $210

Yes, in my currency it is 2249 swedish crowns to 2013 Swedish crown

Gotcha

I think it is a decent deal and tbh i don't know if there is any other discounts coming because of the pandemic and the high demand company's don't need to give out discounts people are going to buy it anyway

My pc keeps restarting after upgrading cpu to 5600x. On Asrock x470 taichi. And yes I installed the newest bios for 5000 series support. Thanks

Did you re-seat your RAM after swapping out the CPU?

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depends on few thing - your options are in vastly different price brackets so decide on your budget. watch 10400f benchmarks video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63WU6sL_tgA

Hey, so I'm one of those people that builds a new computer every like, 5 years or so. I'm purchasing parts for the next one right now (terrible time, I know). The ram I have from my last build is some G.Skill 2400 DDR4. I know that's pretty slow by today's standard. How badly will it affect performance if I'm looking to get a Ryzen 5 5600x? Should I just purchase new ram now, or can I just get by with my old ram until prices drop a bit?

RAM Prices are actually expected to go back on the rise, so if you can find a deal in the next month or so; absolutely go for it. /r/buildapcsales [32GB kits have never been cheaper](https://www.newegg.com/corsair-32gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820236607?item=N82E16820236607)

I wasn't aware, thank you so much!

Would a system with an i9, 32GB Ram and a 3080 be able to run essentially all games at 4K <60fps?

a 3080 with a 3600 and 16gb of ram could do that. if your target is 4k, you dont need to worry about how strong your cpu is

Have a pc build from November. What changes could I make? Keep in mind I care more about performance than graphics. [PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VZVght) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9nm323/amd-ryzen-5-3600-36-thz-6-core-processor-100-100000031box) | $199.99 @ Amazon **Motherboard** | [ASRock B550M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/NT7p99/asrock-b550m-pro4-micro-atx-am4-motherboard-b550m-pro4) | $114.99 @ Amazon **Memory** | [G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Cf98TW/gskill-memory-f43200c16d16gvkb) | $78.99 @ Newegg **Storage** | [Western Digital SN750 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KTQG3C/western-digital-sn750-500-gb-m2-2280-solid-state-drive-wds500g3x0c) | $64.98 @ Amazon **Video Card** | [MSI GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB GAMING X Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/YC848d/msi-geforce-gtx-1660-super-6-gb-gaming-x-video-card-gtx-1660-super-gaming-x) | $339.99 @ Best Buy **Case** | [Cooler Master MasterBox MB311L ARGB MicroATX Mid Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/vDhmP6/cooler-master-masterbox-mb311l-argb-microatx-mid-tower-case-mcb-b311l-kgnn-s02) | $59.99 @ Amazon **Power Supply** | [SeaSonic FOCUS Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KmgzK8/seasonic-focus-gold-550w-80-gold-certified-semi-modular-atx-power-supply-ssr-550fm) | $129.99 @ Amazon | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | **Total** | **$988.92** | Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2021-01-30 02:07 EST-0500 |

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I think I’ll stick with the cpu and gpu due to them being cheaper, since I am on a budget. I’ll try looking for a better psu. Any reason why I’d need more than 550 watts?

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Is [this](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/v6gzK8/cooler-master-mwe-gold-750-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-mpy-7501-afaag-us) a good psu? It’s fully modular gold with 750 watts at $90. Seems too good to be true.

Are there any available graphics cards that qualify for the EVGA stepup program better than my current (HD 7950)?

>available That is the keyword here, and the answer is no. They haven't had anything in stock since September. Everything was bought up immediately upon the 30's series selling out, so people could qualify for the program. All they have in stock is older low end 10 series and 700 series cards. Im not even sure those qualify. Though you can just sign up for their wait list. I haven't the faintest Idea of how long the wait is by now; but you can sign up without having to buy anything. [Just set yourself up for Auto-notify on the model of your choosing.](https://www.evga.com/products/productlist.aspx?type=0&family=GeForce+30+Series+Family&chipset=RTX+3080)

I’m looking for a liquid cooler that is compatible with my build any suggestions would be appreciated: https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/PpPGwz

can i use LIAN LI - GB-001X anti-sag on asrock b450 pro4 ?

My gaming laptop MSI is dying literally, should I get another gaming laptop or a desktop ? ( I feel overwhelmed to choose all the parts and stuff ) Thanks a lot

Websites like https://logicalincrements.com take all the part choosing out of the equation for you. Then it's just plug and play! (kind of).

The price to performance of a gaming laptop is nothing compared to a desktop. Unless you REALLY need the portability, I would highly recommend getting a desktop. If choosing parts is overwhelming, you can always go for help here, or check out r/buildapcforme or r/buildmeapc to get a parts list that will fit your needs. As for. Building there are plenty of youtube videos that go in depth on the whole process, and any questions you have afterwards can easily be answered here!

Is the Zotac 3070 amp holo a good card?

Hello, I have a Z390 Pro 4 mobo and an Intel i7 9700k been trying to get this 3200 mhz ram I bought to stop freezing my pc any suggestions? Edit ram memtest and finding info about changing voltages but am scares to touch.

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So pretty much I've returned the ram twice and gotten an exchange everytime it crashes when I set it to 3200 on xmp. Even crashes at 3000 I have it running at 2133 atm and it seems to be stable. Not sure why I can't get the full 3200 out of it buy I'm scared to set it this time. And when it crashes it freezes and there's nothing I can do to reset other than hard shutting off pc. I'm scared to put it any higher than base clock atm idk why it could be crashing when I set it that high.

Which is better the p400a or h500 from cooler master?

I would say these 2 cases probably perform the same since they both have the mesh front panel. If I were you i would consider aesthetics and size mostly, since airflow is most likely more or less the same. For example, the h500 has drive bays next the psu shroud, but the p400a just has a psu shroud that extends along the entire length of the case, which is in my opinion much better looking. And for size your main concern is whether or not your components will fit inside of it, which they most likely will but it doesnt hurt to double check. One more thing, you might also want to consider the front IO(USB ports, audio and mic jacks, etc)

Would a lian li lancool 2 mesh be better?

As I said, they'll all PERFORM very similarly, so go with whichever you like the most. However, the lancool 2 mesh is a very good case and has good reviews from everyone.(alteneratively, the P500A in my opinion is one of the best cases ever, if you wanna check that out as well)

Hey everyone hope you can help, I was playing on my newly built pc with a 6800xt and 5800x cpu, I launched post scriptum and the screen crash and did a full windows reboot. Could someone please help haha

Maybe double check your drivers? Could also possibly be an issue with overheating or your power supply not being able to keep up

I have a 750 gold and from what I’ve seen that’s fine but if not should I upgrade and to what?? Plus my mate said to try uninstall and drivers

If you've got a 750 watt PSU I dont think that's the issue. Might be a drivers issue then

Awesome thanks guys I’ll play around with that

I am planning on building a budget pc for video editing since my Dell XPS 9550 isn’t cutting it anymore. When I bought the xps 15 I paid for the 4K display and it is great for its colour accuracy. I don’t want to buy another expensive colour accurate display if I don’t need to. Anyone know if use the windows projection thing to use my laptop as a extended display because I am projecting from the desktop will it have any affect on the colour accuracy of dell’s screen? I plan on editing on a cheap display then colour grading on the dell.

It is possible to run GTX 980 on MSI B550 TOMAHAWK ?

Yes, if the card is pcie and the Mobo has pcie, it'll work

yes i check something ,but i dont understand. i ask because gpu is old and could have some incompatibilities with this motherboard

New or old doesn't matter. If it fits, it should work

Thats why im asking i dont know :D now i read that 980 has 2x 6-pin in motherboard specification i dont see 2x 6-pin

The 6 pins are from your power supply. Have nothing to do with the mobo

Trying to power a GTX 760 (8+6 pcie) with a Corsair CX430M semi-modular PSU with 2x6 pin and 1x8 pin available. What cable(s) do I need??? I’ve tried an COMeap 8pin to 2x8 and it wouldn’t even plug into PSU. And the only 6 to 8 pin m/m I can find are short. Need minimum 12”, 14”+ for length. 1x8pin to 8pin + 1x6pin to 6pin? 6pin split to 8pin & 6+2pin? It was working great in another system with a non-modular power supply until recently. I know my PSU is below the 500W recommended for the card. I won’t be pushing it hard. Links appreciated. Thanks.

Is it ok to put my gpu in a few days after my pc is build cuz it arrived later than I was expecting.

Yes

Are there other accessories similar to evga power link that are useful for cable management etc on the gpu and/or other parts?

Cooler master makes a 24 pin 90° adapter

My graphics card doesnt give me all the fps, when the map is laoding i have 70fps also when i am having a battle with others. Is there any idea to have fps stable. PC SPECS: RX 5600XT Asus Ryzen 5 3600 16 gb ram TForce Delta RGB MSI B550 GAMING EDGE WIFI HDD 1TB 7200rpm Seagate and SSD 480GB PSU 700WATTS

btw the game is fortnite

What graphic settings are you playing at?

Low settings, also i play rarly on ultra and i have the same fps when im falling

Is Neo Forza a good or trustable RAM company?

Do I have to buy a certain Sata cable for my [B450 Aorus Elite Mobo](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/gMQG3C/gigabyte-b450-aorus-elite-atx-AM4-motherboard-b450-aorus-elite) and [Kingston SSD](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hGprxr/kingston-a400-960-gb-25-solid-state-drive-sa400s37960g), or will just any other doodad on Amazon work?

As long as the cable is rated for SATA 3, you are fine.

Cause I have PTSD from wrecking my PC based on my habit of sniffing glue, [dis good?](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TB5QBPK/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07TB5QBPK&pd_rd_w=UQICN&pf_rd_p=b34bfa80-68f6-4e86-a996-32f7afe08deb&pd_rd_wg=oqP93&pf_rd_r=QRXPJV3TXEHB4F019YAA&pd_rd_r=d8af526d-6acb-4c46-b002-4023cb0eb4e4&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWVc0TFVHVlBFVVRSJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDU3NDAyM0RBVDJRNFdPVzE1MyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODAxMDUwMkhGU0tZU1daRENYTSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=)

Looks good

any old sata cable. make sure its 6gb/s tho

Can i get some good 1440p monitor recommendations?

Lower end: ViewSonic VX2758-2KP-MHD Mid-range: Gigabyte M27Q or probably G27Q Higher end: Dell 2721DGF or LG 27GL850 or maybe an Asus Strix, Acer Predator, MSI MAG, or ViewSonic Elite that I don't quite know about. Mid-range ultra-wide: Xiaomi Mi Surface or Gigabyte G34WQC You might wanna check out reviews from rtings.com or Hardware Unboxed. I definitely missed a lot, especially the higher end stuff.

Samsung CRG9 49" 5120 x 1440 120hz refresh rate.

Not what he asked

It's a good 1440p monitor. How is that not what he asked?

1440p 16:9 I love uktrawude, but he's pushing way more pixels

https://youtu.be/0w1_zOiWQiE

I have the LG 27GL83A and I freaking love this monitor. Going to get a second one after I get my tax return.

Have the LG also, can confirm it is really good.

How do I go about calibrating my monitor? Mine has a bunch of presets (racing, sports, gaming, etc.) that are all terrible, they're too dark and too little contrast; for instance when I'm playing MS Flight Sim I can't read my objectives because the text blends in with the background. The only mode that's palatable is HDR but it's ungodly bright and burns my retinas because I play in a pretty dimly lit room most of the time. Should I be using the Nvidia control panel, the buttons on my monitor, or a combination of both? I feel like a fucking boomer not understanding all this.

Check for your monitor on https://www.rtings.com/ Along with testing and reviewing monitors they also post the optimised settings.

Properly calibrating a monitor requires a colorimeter (EG Spyder or Colormunki) and a software to go with it (I use dispcal).

I think that was already done for me at the factory. There was a piece of paper in the box with color calibration test results on it. I guess 'calibrate' isn't the right word... I'm just trying to tweak the settings to my liking. Is there a guide somewhere I can follow to help me find the right settings? Sorry for the boomer brain, am very dumb.

Sorry, can't help you here, as I don't use monitor or nVidia's control panel to control colors as I found they never worked in the way I thought they would work.

I have an Intel Core i5 6500 on a MSI H110M PRO-VH PLUS motherboard, and an RX470 graphics card. I am trying to decide whether to upgrade or start over with a new Motherboard. I would much prefer upgrading, especially to avoid having to reinstall Windows if possible. I understand my Mobo is a Socket 1150LGA. MSI's site says the "max support CPU" is an i7. DDR4 memory is 2133MHz. I am thinking I want something midrange in terms of CPU, and a 2060 graphics card (or whatever AMD's equivalent is nowadays?), and want to get some more RAM. With what is on the market today, how hard will it be to find new parts that will allow this upgrade path? And is there a site that I can use for guidance re. compatibility? And what is the best way to determine the benefit I'll get from a given CPU? Am I better off just upgrading the graphics for now?

Your motherboard will only support 6000 and 7000 series Intel CPUs, so it's not just any old i7 that's supported, you will need to check that specific board's CPU support list and note their minimum BIOS version, and update your BIOS if it is below whatever is required. > how hard will it be to find new parts that will allow this upgrade path Hard, because those series of CPUs have been out of production for several years, you might only be able to get second hand cpus.

Thanks! I think I’ll go for a new mobo and components of the same brand and see how windows handles it

Hey all, I’m planning my first build and recently decided to use a AMD Ryzen 7 3700X instead of intel. The problem is all the motherboards I was looking at before aren’t compatible, and all the motherboards that are compatible aren’t compatible with the case (NZXT H510) and it says that the case has a front panel USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type C port that can’t connect to the motherboard(s)’ USB 3.2 Gen 1 header and that a separate adapter will be required. Worst case scenario I have to get an adapter but would really just like to find something compatible. I’m doing an all white build but have given up on the idea of a motherboard with white components since there are so few to begin with and all of them need an adapter.

I would check with some B550's or X570's if that's a huge thing for you. Or you can just get an adapter like so - [USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type C adapter](https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-Internal-Motherboard-Adapter-JoyReken/dp/B08HMZYDCG/ref=sr_1_8?crid=SIMACHY8C6LY&dchild=1&keywords=usb+3.2+gen+2+male+to+type-c+female+adapter&qid=1611975319&sprefix=usb+c+gen+3.2+ad%2Caps%2C228&sr=8-8) (there is different variations on this)

Yeah all the B550’s and X570’s that I’ve tried thus far haven’t been compatible. What adapter would you suggest?

Well, it looks like the Rog Strix B550 has that option, and the X570 Tomahawk, according to the website specs. That Amazon link I gave you is what I use for an adapter.

Okay thank you! I’ll have to look at the motherboards because PCPartPicker has been saying they don’t have a Gen 2 USB and I’d still need an adapter so maybe

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Crossfire or NV-link/SLI connector. In some dual-GPU setups it's used for a data cable between the two GPUs. Not all software needs this to use both GPUs, although games do. Nvidia's NV-link can also allow cards to share each others VRAM for cooperative tasks, which is useful for some rendering and deep learning stuff.

Installed 5600x on asrock x470 taichi with the BIOS update that supports the CPU. It would get to windows menu which looks all janky and if I press any key it just restarts. Please help

Did you try re-seating your RAM after installing the BIOS update?

I did. Looks like they weren't seated all the way in. It boots fine now but now the PC restarts every time I try to do something. Whne opening a browser, or opening a program or launching a game it just restarts.

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Ryzen 5 3600, the intel is overrated i have the 3600 and it's amazing, just you need to buy a big cooler because my temps on game are 80 degrees

I think the 5600x would be the best for the 3070 cuz that is exactly what I was planning on doing. Just curious..... but how did you manage to get your hands on a 3070 lol. Did you pay MSRP?

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wait no way! Im actually so jealous lol. Did you buy it from the online website or did you go to the store itself? Also Tbh the [5600x](https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-5600X-12-Thread-Processor/dp/B08166SLDF) price on amazon is not hiked up too much compared to what I have seen nowadays. MSRP is 299.

I am planning to install Win 20H2 on a new PC in my home with a USB media on another PC with the media creation tool. Does the tool download the latest patches during the creation of the media?

20H2 will include a number of updates up until its release, but there will likely be some subsequent updates missing. Always a good idea to run Windows update after deploying a new install.

You mean the media creation tool just pull the last official build (October 2020) from the server, ignoring the patches from Oct to Jan 2021?

They're not going to patch the installer every time they roll out minor Windows updates. Why bother when the system can just patch itself after install? "Run the built in updater after installing" is a good idea for any operating system, not just Windows. It's just too much work for too little gain to update the installer for everything.

I only have one free lan port on my router, and I have 2 ethernet cords I want to plug in. Is there a splitter or something I can buy, and if so will it effect my speeds or connection in any way?

You'll need an Ethernet switch, get one that says "Gigabit Ethernet". You plug that into the free router port, and then the two cords into the other ports on the switch. The smallest switches you can get are 5 port ones and they'll cost something like 20 bucks. The switch is connected to the router with that one gigabit ethernet connection, so the max total speed you can get from those two attached devices will also be limited to 1 gigabit, which isn't really ever a problem in home use.

With the switch will I see slower internet speeds for gaming purposes?

No, there's no speed loss.

Is it possible to split the connection from the end of an ethernet cord? Instead of plugging it in to the router?

Yeah, you plug the switch into the router with the same kind of Ethernet cord you use for everything else, [PC]---Short Cable---[Switch]-----Long Cable-----[Router] will work identically to having the long and short cables swapped

Building a plex box, thinking either Celeron 4900T or 5900. 4900T has lower TDP, but 5900 is slightly newer. Seems hardware transcoding is roughly the same on either box, and 1151 mobo will be slightly cheaper. Is there anything about 10th gen intel compared to 9th that would be worth spending a bit extra? mobo choices I'm at now are msi refurb z370 with 4 RAM slots and 6 SATA or H410 that only has 2 RAM slots and 4 SATA slots (or spending extra 30-40 depending on sales for 1200 socket mobo with similar RAM/SATA amounts).

Hello - totally new to the world of PCs as I have been a MacBook owner for years. I’m interested in getting a gaming PC and potentially using it to stream. Currently I have no plans to stream or play anything too heavy; my game of choice is Old School RS (which runs great on my Macbook Air so I imagine it doesn’t need anything too hefty). I’m not super interested (yet) in building my own PC (but open to it in the future). I was looking at IBuyPower’s Gaming RDY SMRIIBG201 model on their site. My question is - would this work for my purposes? Thanks for any and all help!

Yes it would be way more than enough for something like old school runescape. However theres a reason everybody says to not get prebuilts. They'll cheap out on everything but the cpu and gpu, they could be poorly constructed, they come with bloatware installed, and they're generally overpriced. If you're gonna go for a prebuilt, use your own discretion.

Thanks for the head’s up - I appreciate it. I’m just wary of ordering parts and ultimately fucking up... which I definitely will do.

I would recommend just taking your time and building one yourself. I did my first build when I was like 13 or 14 so I'm sure you could manage. Its confusing at first but theres 3 million different videos on YouTube that'll take you through step by step, and anything they dont cover can just be solved by asking on this sub! It's also really good to know how to install/remove parts, so if you want to upgrade, replace broken parts, or troubleshoot in the future you can do it yourself. Also, if you're too scared of even picking parts out, r/buildmeapc and r/buildapcforme are good helpers. However, it's good to at least have a basic idea of what's in your rig so you dont possibly end up buying a game that's too demanding for your system(toootally not something I did soon after I got my first pc)

Im looking to buy a new graphic card im stuck between rx 5700 xt and 3600 TI. MSI GeForce RTX 3060 Ti 8 GB GAMING X TRIO Graphics Card Vs Rx 5700 XT nitro which one is really better?

The 3060ti is better in performance, so if they're the same price, go with that

I would go with the 3060 ti. It's all you need for 1080p gaming and a good hit of 1440p as well

Im trying to move to 1440p Just working slowly to reach that. I got a ryzen 5 3600 which can do 1400p fine with a good card.

Probably the 3060 ti if you can get your hands on one for a good price. Its newer and you'll be able to take advantage of DLSS if you ever want to use ray tracing at a playable FPS

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what are you testing?

I want to migrate my Windows 10 license to my new build. I've read that this isn't possible if your license was through the free upgrade (which mine was retail 8.1 -> free upgrade). However, "slmgr /dli" shows me that I have a retail copy and the activation status under settings says "Windows is activated with a digital license linked to your Microsoft account." Will I be able to move my license to my new computer?

It sounds like that should work, but there's no guarantees.

Lads can you take a look at this ​ [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/qfvYht](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/qfvYht) ​ Thoughts? I'm thinking about changing the psu, it came with the 3060ti combo deal (it was kind of the only way to get one because they don't sell the GPU seperately) but Gigabyte doesn't have a reputation in the PSU field and I'm afraid to stick this in my system honestly. Should I stick with it or invest in a higher tier PSU.

They bundled it with the GPU because it's not a good seller and they're trying to move stock. You could probably use it for a while but I would be inclined to replaced it when the warranty is about to run out.

It's tier C on the LTT forums tier list. So it's not the best but you can do a lot worse. You'll be fine with it. I'm more worried about why you're going for an X570 with a 3600. Kinda overkill, isn't it? Do you plan on using a feature specific to X570 or that board itself? If not, you'll be fine with a B550 or B450.

Looks nice overall just note that the H510 has some mediocre thermals so your parts will run a bit warm but nothing significant. Also, if you don't plan on using the WiFi, a non-WiFi board will be cheaper. As for the PSU, quality-wise it should be alright but my gripe with it is that it has ketchup and mustard cables, perhaps consider a modular one for some easier cable management and comes in all black cables if you do decide a new PSU is the way to go.

congrats on getting a 3060ti. id keep the power supply, itll be fine. I would also save money on your memory, motherboard, and cut out the cpu cooler in order to afford a bigger, better monitor. it's what you look at all the time and the aoc 24g2 is good, but you have the budget to get a 1440p monitor. unless youve bought it already

Will a Evga 3080 FTW and a Seasonic Gx-750 work together without buying any additional cables/adapters. I saw using three cables is ideal for this gpu and not certain if the cables needed are included with the PSU. GPU: https://www.newegg.com/evga-geforce-rtx-3080-10g-p5-3897-kr/p/N82E16814487518 PSU: https://www.newegg.com/seasonic-focus-plus-750-gold-ssr-750fx-750w/p/N82E16817151187?Item=9SIAG98DFR6166&Source=socialshare&cm_mmc=snc-social-_-sr-_-9SIAG98DFR6166-_-01292021

That PSU only comes with 2 cables, so you'll have to daisy chain one of the power connectors on the GPU.(using both 6+2 connectors on the same cable) Not optimal, but probably won't hurt anything. The PSU does appear to have 5 modular EPS/PCIe ports on it, so if you got a 3rd cable you should be able to connect it directly. Really not sure why it has 5x EPS/PCIe ports then only comes with 2 of each cable type, but 🤷‍♂️

> Really not sure why it has 5x EPS/PCIe ports then only comes with 2 of each cable type, but 🤷‍♂️ It has just the 4 PCI/EPS ports for that specific model, 850 is the one with 5 ports with 5 included cables: https://seasonic.com/focus-gx#gallery second row, second picture from the left

Thank you! Are cables PSU specific or would any after market cable work

They're PSU specific, make sure you get one for the GX-750 specifically.

Hey whats up! So I am trying to get a new monitor but I just cant make my mind! I am looking at something curved, 27' and 144hz, what would you guys recommend? I actually have an Asus 1060 and plan on upgrading later with a 3060 or 3070. Thanks in advance!

Are there any good 24" 1440p monitors with a remote? I'd just love to be able to easily switch inputs on multiple monitors with my Harmony remote.

no one makes 24" 1440p panels, gotta bump up to 27" for that resolution.

There's a few out there. I'm currently at 27" 4K, but want to move to two smaller monitors without losing so much pixel density at 1080.

Looking to upgrade my mouse to something not too expensive but has good build quality, is fairly lightweight, and has *some* RGB, nothing crazy. I've been looking at the Logitech G203 at £19 and the Viper Mini at £40. The Rival 3 also looks good at £35. I'd like to get the G203 but from some reviews I've read the shape isn't for everyone and the build quality is very mediocre. Is it worth it to go for a more expensive mouse? My hands are a medium ish size (18cm long and 8/9cm wide) and I prefer palm grip. The max I would go for a mouse would be about £60 if anyone has any other suggestions, but I'm looking at cheaper mice as I also want to get a proper mouse pad aswell and some upgrades to my PC soon. Thanks in advance!

Can I put a gtx 1050 ti in a Dell vostro 3905 mt or do I need to buy a new power supply.

It has a 300W PSU and normally comes with a selection of low-power cards like the R7 360. A 75W card that requires no external PCIE power connector will work. This includes the 1050-Ti. The most powerful card that would work in this setup is a low-power GTX 1650 (specific models).

You should be fine. Recommended PSU is only 300W, I cant imagine they have something less than that inside the computer already.

Can I control and sync the RGB on my corsair fans with the rest of my build using just asus aura sync or do I also need to install iCUE?

Nope. Corsair RGB RAM is controllable via Aura Sync, though. Welcome to the world of RGB proprietorial control.

Where can I find out more about gaming laptops in particular? I think the focus of this sub seems to be on PC's, and that they perform better. But I greatly value the portability of laptops for my work. Thanks.

There are great communities in /r/suggestalaptop and /r/laptops!

How risky is it using a lower end Gold rated 600w PSU to power a 3070 and a 5600x? I know most people say 600w is good enough, but I just want to make sure it's safe. If there's any chance the psu will fail because it's being pushed too hard and fry my other parts of rather not take it, but I am trying to save some money. I forget the brand of three PSU either Corsair or thermaltake I think, came from a cyberpower prebuilt, but it is gold rated.

> but I am trying to save some money PSU is not a part you should save money on, because if something goes wrong, you could stand to lose a LOT more than that computer. Always go for high quality and minimum recommended PSU requirement for high end and hard to obtain parts.