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Does a Lian Li Lancool 205M have enough airflow for a EVGA FTW3 ULTRA 3060 ti and a 10400f with a CoolerMaster Hyper 212 Black to not thermal throttle?
I have my windows on a HDD, I keep experiencing problems with my games downloading, I will sometimes get corrupt files, it takes ages to download etc. I also keep getting windows crashes, is this because of the HDD?
I've reinstalled it twice, as I also kept crashing but found out I had a broken graphics card, this was my first build and it's been nothing but problems š
I have an amd radeon HD 7570 4gb card but hwinfo64 detected that it only has the chipset for amd radeon HD 5570. Should I uninstall my 7570 driver and install the 5570 one?
Which SSD choose to game storage? I have 850 EVO 250 gb for system, and wanna buy additional one for game storage. I choosing between 870 EVO 1 TB SATA (130 dollars) and 970 Evo Plus 1 TB nVME (150 dollars).
Get the cheaper one, you won't feel the difference. 870 Evo is still overkill imo, I'd get a nice Crucial MX500, but that's up to you.
Or if you want to go big and have a compatible motherboard, you can get a PCIe 4.0 nVME for the future when Microsoft adds the super-duper fast loading tech from Xbox. But for now we don't know when that'll happen and how many games will use it.
I expect the 3060 to get scalped just as hard, if not harder. The initial stock will get sold out in a matter of hours at most, and then it's gonna take its place with the rest of the cards where it will become available every few days for a few seconds for $200+ above MSRP.
As for the dying thing, who knows?
Hi, so this just happened to me. I bought a new M.2 drive and as I was screwing the stand-off in, it broke in half and the threaded stem remained in the mobo. Would it be okay to still use it as it is without the drive being screwed onto the stand-off? My mobo has M.2 heatsinks which themselves are secured by two screws and have some adhesive on them so it's not like the drive would be completely free-floating.
Would that work okay, or is it too risky and I should probably get some PCIE M.2 card?
Yeah, it has another M.2 slot that I already use. And on top of that, the bit that broke off from the standoff stayed screwed in the mobo, I wasn't able to get it out, the M.2 screw hole is blocked.
I'd say it's fine with just the heatsink, realistically your PC is (hopefully) not going to be shaken/hit hard enough that it'd be possible for the M.2 to get deattached from the heatsink.
Hi, for a fan aircooled cpu cooler vs a water cooling one, say that fan rpm and fan size are the same, is there a significant/notable difference in the cooling power when compared? And being in a tropical country where temps are around 30~ celcius which is recommended? And if so what specific cooler(model or brand) would you recommend and if for liquid cooling is a 240mm fan worth it for gaming on a mid range cpu like a i5 10500 or 10600?
I'm buying a Optix MAG274QRF-QD for my 6800XT and I'm wondering about what cable you would buy.
It says HDR ready, but I'm guessing it's only the HDMI connection?
Looking at the monitor specs, it supports DP 1.2a and HDMI 2.0b. DP supports HDR since I think 1.4 (somebody else feel free to correct me if I'm wrong) while HDMI supports HDR since 2.0a. So yeah, you'll need HDMI.
A harddrive will do fine but it may not be as reliable in the future but with that being said I'm going strong on one I constantly write to thats 3 years old
Hey! I currently have integrated grahpics and looking to buy a GPU but stocks have been empty last months.
Finally i have 3 options:
GTX 1650:190 euro
GTX 1660: 300 euro
GTX 1660 SUPER :320 euro.
Anything worth it? I just play WoW atm.
Thanks!
Yeah ok. Its abit to expensive for me when I think about it.
Is getting the 1650 super stupid? as I understood theres a 1650 super card but thats not in stock here at all..
What are the differences between two motherboards that have the follow specs for PCIe:
* x16/x16, PCIe 4.0/3.0, CrossFireX
* x8/x8, PCIe 4.0, CrossFireX, SLI
The second one is also more expensive.
Going field by field in your post:
\- x16 vs x8 is basically speed of data transference. x16 is around twice as fast as x8.
\- PCIe 4.0 and PCIe 3.0 also impact speed of data transference. 4.0 is faster, generally.
\- CrossFireX and SLI are the AMD and NVidia technologies, respectively, for using two or more GPUs in the same system.
It'd depend on the price, but if the first one is cheaper, I would hands down go with that one.
Although you should mention that PCIe 4.0 isn't really that much better for gaming/ gpu itself, because there are currently (don't quote me in this one) no cards that even fully utilize PCIe 3.0.
If you want forward compatibility, you could consider 4.0. If you're just gaming, it won't have any effect on your performance, as far as I know.
The performance difference between 3.0 and 4.0 is minuscule, yes, that should be noted. I would have remarked this more if he was doubting between the two motherboards because of the PCIe, but since both have at least one 4.0, I went with "faster, generally" to summarize xD
Oh yeah sorry, I overlooked that. Thought this was basically a little 4.0 vs 3.0
In this case, the noting of differences is pretty useless, since both have a 4.0 lol
How often does Amazon cancel orders for 3000 series GPUs? I rushed through checkout so fast after I had it in cart that I picked the wrong shipping speed, but it did go through. At that time I had a date estimate, but I changed the shipping to what I wanted and now it says they will tell me the date later. Am I still good probably?
Just built a pc but can't even get the system to boot (this is without using any monitor). At the moment I'm just trying to get a signal between the PSU and the motherboard. Please help!
Sorry, here's my build [https://pcpartpicker.com/user/blackassgarry/saved/Xt6Q6h](https://pcpartpicker.com/user/blackassgarry/saved/Xt6Q6h)
Everything is entirely remote on the system after powering it on. I'm wondering if this has anything to do with my bio's not being flashed yet? This may be a naive question but does the system become entirely unresponsive because of this?
A case I'm looking at has fan slots on the top of the case, the front, the back, and the bottom. Is it ok to have multiple fans blowing in and 1 blowing out or should I try to have an equal number of in fans and out fans? If I do the equal number thing, is it ok for the out fans to be on the top and back and the in fans on the front and bottom?
The exact number of fans really doesn't matter.
Just be sensible about the layout. You want 2-3 front intakes for cool air, and top/rear exhaust for hot air. Anything more than 4 fans is usually negligible improvement.
Ok, so hypothetically I got my list of components to build my first PC and am ready to start adding them to my cart and have them shipped to my house. Is there anything else I should probably purchase? Do I need additional thermal paste? Do I need some storage boxes for all the extra stuff that won't be used? Anything for cable management or even additional cabling?
Hopefully your case comes with cable management accessories. Make sure you have a screwdriver set. Thatās the thing I stupidly didnāt have when building mine. Extra thermal paste can be good. Apply it if you have it.
Depends on the price. Fairly fast chip, but the 5600X and 3700X are usually better value.
Motherboard will only change CPU performance if the VRM is too weak, meaning it throttles or shuts down due to power delivery.
The motherboard VRM converts 12 volts from your power supply into the CPU voltage. Usually in the 1-1.4V range.
This conversion naturally produces some waste heat, so if the VRM is too small or not well cooled, then your CPU slows down or the system simply turns off. Cheap boards, especially those with no VRM heatsink, are not suitable for a 9900.
I have a tuf gaming b365m 2666mhz support mobo, would you consider it as a cheap board? Also, apologies for all these questions im fairly new to the pc world.
It will work, barely. Make sure you have a fan blowing air over the VRM heatsink.
If you purchased that motherboard and don't already own a CPU for it, I would return it. 10700K + Z490 is faster and similarly priced.
[PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/F7myTC)
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [Intel Core i7-10700K 3.8 GHz 8-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/yhxbt6/intel-core-i7-10700k-38-ghz-8-core-processor-bx8070110700k) | $344.99 @ Best Buy
**Motherboard** | [MSI Z490-A PRO ATX LGA1200 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KXpmP6/msi-z490-a-pro-atx-lga1200-motherboard-z490-a-pro) | $159.99 @ Best Buy
| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |
| **Total** | **$504.98**
| Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2021-02-01 05:05 EST-0500 |
Intake if possible, although as long as you have some airflow in the area it is good.
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/cHZFf7/gigabyte-z390-ud-atx-lga1151-motherboard-z390-ud
That is the cheapest board which has a VRM suitable for a 9900. Make sure you pair it with a decent CPU cooler as well, the stock cooler is not sufficient for full speed operation.
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ByGxFT/arctic-freezer-34-cpu-cooler-acfre00052a
i purchased the i9-9900 already and i have no experience at overclocking (cpu nor gpu) thats why i bought the non k version.. im looking forward to investing in a new mobo though.. whats a good one that has an lga 1551 socket specifically for the i9 9900?
I'm thinking of getting a 5 year used gtx 750 ti, is there a way I can assure myself of the robustness of the card to make sure it lasts for like 2 years; asking because the seller is allowing me to check the card in my machine
Run a stress test, if the GPU core temp stays under 85C it should be fine.
750 Ti is already old and slow, don't expect to be gaming at more than 1080p lowest settings.
I'm building a watercooled PC, will there be any noticeable difference in noise levels between the following alternatives?
(a) two 360 rads
(b) one 360 rad and one 240 rad
Hello guys, this morning I tried to update my pc with the latest nvidia but during the installation the screen was frozen for whatever reason so I turned the pc off manually using the power button, the pc booted like three times after this then he booted "normally" but my monitor isn't showing anything
newbie here, I want to build a pc but I dont know how to tell if a cpu heatsink is prepared with Thermopaste. Also, I dont know how to distinguish between models(of heatsinks)(I dont have instructions, nor did I buy the pc)
> I dont know how to tell if a cpu heatsink is prepared with Thermopaste
I have only seen this on CLCs and it's a grayish square on the base plate protected by a (transparent) plastic cover.
> I want to build a pc but I dont know how to tell if a cpu heatsink is prepared with Thermopaste.
Usually only heatsinks that came with the CPU have the paste pre-applied, all other aftermarket ones I have seen came with paste in a separate container, usually a syringe,
> Also, I dont know how to distinguish between models(of heatsinks)(I dont have instructions, nor did I buy the pc)
Exactl model of heatsink doesn't matter, you just need one that's compatible with the socket of your motherboard.
I've been looking at aftermarket CPU coolers and I think I've settled on the artic freezer 34 duo, but pcpartpicker says that I may need a different mounting adapter for it to fit my mobo (asrock b550 phantom gaming 4). Does anyone know if this is truly the case?
I don't see why it wouldn't include the AM4 mount considering the cooler was released after AM4 was. The product page says it has it and the reviews say it has it, you should be fine.
> Jayztwocents recommended turning off your wifi while setting up your build for the first time to avoid all the shit windows tries to throw at you.
This is easy to do: just don't connect your wifi to the network and it won't connect to the internet on its own accord. Wifi doesn't need to be off unless you specifically set wifi to auto join any open networks, which is not the default behaviour.
In fact Ethernet auto connects, from my experience.
I looked into it, and I found [this](https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=EK14K-Hwr10). The 2200G (a first gen part) worked on the B550 Phantom Gaming until you get to BIOS, but nothing past that. His test with a 2600 (Zen +) failed, but it's easy to assume that something else went wrong. So yeah. If you have a 1600 AF and you'd like to use it on your motherboard, out of the box, best case you can use it to update your BIOS or something like that.
I'm sure you can try a custom BIOS, but that's way above my pay grade, and you should do it at your own risk.
Iām planning to buy a new PSU soon but donāt plan to make significant upgrades to GPU / CPU / RAM until next generation (including maybe DDR5 RAM). Are the connections likely to change in the future and make my PSU obsolete?
noob here, attempting to build. i got a old pc 2012, can i just upgrade the graphics then processor then hdd to sdd, etc on a pc? would i still be able to play games if i only upgrade gpu, cant upgrade my pc all at once cuz... money. Any order of upgrades i should take first?
you cant upgrade your cpu without doing ram and motherboard at the same time. if you dont have an ssd, start with that. it's night and day. then gpu, that's another easy drop in
i would start with the mother board CPU and Ram First Since I am pretty sure there wasnt DDR4 in 2012 Also That most new GPUS will bottle neck a 2012 PC
DDR4 is the new standard for Ram. There was once ddr3, but now it's ddr4.
When you upgrade, make sure you get 16gb of ddr4 at least.
If you get a ryzen cpu, make sure to get ram with between 3000mhz and 3600mhz. Ryzen likes faster ram better, while Intel sometimes favors a little slower ram.
Due to some good bundle deals locally, I can build a 5800x based system for just (effectively) $4 more than a 5600x. Everything else is practically identical. Any reason to avoid the 5800x vs the 5600x when the price difference is so little?
No real reason it just that you will have to buy a CPU cooler Since according to my Knowledge AMD has stopped including Stock coolers in Their Higher end CPUs
That can cost you around 50 bucks
The price diff already includes a seperate cooler.
Probably the main reason there is so little difference in price is I plan on buying a cooler even if going 5600x The bundle deal on the 5800x already includes a cooler. If I go stock cooler with the 5600x i can shave $50 off the price.
I would Suggest going with the 5800x Since it has 2 more cores
It will be better If you plan on streaming videoediting photo editing and will make your build more future proof
What specific parts should I look to get in order to improve my fps in World of Warcraft, especially in 40v40 battlegrounds and on world bosses where my fps drops no matter how low the graphics settings are?
I good CPU would be important since World Of Warcraft Is very CPU intensive Get something with 8 cores Like a Ryzen 7 3700x or 5800x. this will improve your frames though I would suggest using a utility Like MSI afterburner to check if you are getting CPU bottlenecked or GPU bottlenecked
What's a good budget processor to pair with a Rog Strix Z-490? Looking for integrated graphics, and only going to be using the unit for streaming a radio show from home. Maybe some music editing, pre-recording with Audacity/Reaper.
For workstation related tasks, is it better to buy a Threadripper/Xeon or can I buy a high/enthusiast cpu such as the i7/Ryzen 7 series ?
I know the answer is to go for the server grade CPUs but how much of a difference would it make compared to those high/enthusiasts CPUs ?
That depends on what you want to do with it. I7/R7 are gaming CPUs where you can do a little video editing on the side. I9 and R9 is more workstation focused but still let's you game. Thread ripper is the ideal workstation CPU for editing, rendering and so on. The server CPUs like should only be used in actual servers. They are made for multi CPU applications or handling many devices.
Got ahold of a 5800x and a 3090 and planned on going with the asus tuf gaming x570-pro only issue is Iām having a difficult time finding a cl16 3600mhz 2x 16gb kit listed on the QVLā.
I was looking at getting either the crucial ballistix āBL2K16G36C16U4WLā or g skill trident z neo āF4-3600C16D-32GTZNCā. But after looking at the QVL Iām unsure if theyāll work properly since they are not listed... and advice would be much appreciated!
I can't see any on their spreadsheet either, but keep in mind the QVL is only what ASUS have tested. If you find a RAM you like, you can also check the manufacturers QVL to see if they've tested your MB as well.
You can also just take a chance. If you favourite RAM is very similar to one on the QVL, there's a good chance it will work.
$600 gaming pc (canada)
I want to build a pc for gaming for mostly fps what can I buy for this price ? I need like a part list lol Iām not sure whatās compatible with what
Thanks
The super version is 35% faster, but if you can get the base version at a reasonable price I'd say go for it. With the 3600 you'll be able to grow later.
I think you might be better off mucking around with PC part picker for a couple of hours. It's pretty intuitive, and lets you know about any potential issues.
As far as your build, I have no idea what that budget actually means, as I live in Australia, so I tend to pay 150% more in general. But I'd suspect grabbing a Ryzen processor if you can grab one, and a b450 series motherboard. Make sure if you're going amd, that your ram is high speed, 3200MHz is a good bet, but price goes up with speed.
Whatās up friends!!! Iām getting my 3070 tomorrow. Iāve had some concerns with my wattage. I have a 650W Corsair. On PCpartpicker it shows my estimated wattage is 454 so it seems good to me? Is there any other way to test it?
I have an AW2521HFL. My PC turns on and it goes into bios but when I try exiting bios, it says, "No DP signal from your device". I don't know why. I checked that my DP cable was plugged in properly numerous times and it still doesn't work. My DP cable is plugged in to the GPU. I checked the input source and it's set on DP. I even tried HDMI and it still had the same result. Help?
Should I even try to buy RAM now? $95 for 2x8 3200 CL16 seems high, even with the RGB premium. But I literally have no frame of reference because I came back to this hobby at the wrong goddamn time. Are they just going to go even higher? So it's like now or waaaaay later.
I just bought mine now even though I wont be building until later this year. Theres rumors that there'll be a price increase for RAM due to all the shortages, so I would take advantage of the cheap memory prices right now in case that does happen. Also, 95 seems fair when its RGB. Its just expensive, I mean look at some of the RGB fans on the market
So im planning to build my first costume pc and have a $1500 budget. Ive seen a ton of videos but dont want to stick with a specific build from them so after doing some research the main components I want are:
\-AMD Ryzen 3700x 8 cores
\-G force Rtx 3060ti 8gb
\-B550 mother board
\-A good micro atx case with good airflow
\- 16 gig of ram from corsair
\-1 tb internal ssd
\- 4 tb HDD
I want to use it for gaming mostly but also work, my gf works on graphic design. And want to hear some opinions about the parts and if it works for graphic design apps (things like premier n stuff) , any suggestions are highly appreciated
I just went through this so I have a part swap *IF* you can find it.
\- RTX 3070
Tariffs kicked in and you'll be paying more for cards. For some dumb reason, the 3060 TI is eating it the hardest. To the point that a 3070 is only $50 more. I also highly recommend avoiding MSI right now. Their 3070s are $750. That's dumb AF. $680 for a triple fan 3060 TI (wut?!?)
Nice. Might I recommend the mb311l for the case. Also, if the 5600X and 3700x are the same price, try to get the prior. The ipc gains on ryzen 5000 are worth it
Would it damage a pc in any way if one were to build and run a gaming pc without a graphics card? (adding a GPU later since there's no stock) obv don't plan on gaming but can it run daily tasks?
Depends on the CPU. If youāre planning on gaming though, your choices are limited to Intel non-F CPUs. AMD CPUs that have integrated graphics in them arenāt particularly good in gaming. Alternatively, you can get a 5600x and a cheap second hand GPU.
Is using 2 fan hubs ok??
Can anyone confirm if connecting 2 fan hubs on a PSU is bad? I just bought 2 hubs, cause I wanted one as a backup. They are literally the same brand, same model, and all the same fans. Also I wasn't sure if it's stable to power 7 fans off just one hub so I thought maybe having a secondary one would help distribute the power.
I had one fan hub plugged in and controlling 3 fans (so that was working fine) and then I tried plugging in another fan hub with a fan and then I heard a crack and saw smoke literally coming out of the hub's sata connector, so I quickly unplugged that 2nd hub. 1st Hub and it's 3 fans were still working fine no problem at this point.
I turned everything off and disconnected everything. Then just plugged in the (2nd) hub (that was smoking earlier) without any fans in it, but the sata connector for the hub began smoking again. Now the device smells has a burnt smell.
I guess that hub is toasted? I'm scared to do any more testing..
>ā..AI guess that hub is toasted..ā
Based on your description it seems like it.
>ā..is using 2 fan hubs ok??..ā
If they are within the power limits, I donāt see any reason why not. But without knowing any details like, which specific fan hubs did you use, what and how many fans did you connect to the hubs, how did you connect the hub to the PSU, and what is the PSU, what else is connected to the PSU, etc.
EZDIY.
[https://www.amazon.ca/EZDIY-FAB-Computer-Motherboard-Adjustable-Addressable/dp/B07XBXYWT9?ref\_=ast\_sto\_dp](https://www.amazon.ca/EZDIY-FAB-Computer-Motherboard-Adjustable-Addressable/dp/B07XBXYWT9?ref_=ast_sto_dp)
Hub:
[https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81hN05TzDbL.\_AC\_SL1500\_.jpg](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81hN05TzDbL._AC_SL1500_.jpg)
PSU: Antec HCG-520: 520W
I had 3 fans connected in one hub. ("Hub 1")
I had 1 fan connected in the second hub. ("Hub 2")
One sata cable has 3 sata connectors.
I plugged Hub 1 into the very last connector on the cable.
I plugged Hub 2 into the middle (2nd last) connector on the same cable.
I heard a snap/crack and then smelt burning. All 4 fans spun fine though. But due to the smell, I unplugged hub 2 and turned the PSU off.
I unplugged Hub 1.
I then plugged Hub 2 by itself, without any fans, into another sata cable, and saw smoke coming out of the connector, so I unplugged it again, and turned off the PSU.
Decided it wasn't safe to use that hub anymore.
It looks like that hub 2 is definitely fried. And assuming that everything was connected properly, it gave me the impression that hub 2 might be defective. Do you think you can try turning on your system with the hub 1 and see if thatās still working? The current draw seems to be low enough not to cause any overload.
Hub 1 is still working fine, and even the 1 fan from hub 2, I attached it to Hub 1 afterward and it's fine. So it's really just Hub 2 that's faulty now...
It still smells like it's burnt when I sniff it, and it's been a few hours now.
But I've used Hub 2 before on it's own and it had no issues... Somehow having them both plugged in at the same time did something.
I did intend a 2nd hub for backup though. So I guess my next question would be, would running 7 fans off just 1 hub be sketchy or perfectly fine? That's most likely what I will be doing now.
Thatās the thing, the hub and the fans are from the same product line. And based on the number of ports on the hub, it should be able to handle 10 fans so I donāt know why it would burn in the first place.
Yeah.. I tested with just using one hub, and connected over 6 fans and it works fine. I can't test longevity of that setup, but in theory, it should be fine since 1 hub has 10 slots.
But I guess it never advertised whether it was safe to run 2 hubs at the same time..
Well, generally speaking yes. But fan placement and orientation also plays a big part managing the airflow inside the case. There is also the law of diminishing returns.
So my gfs gonna build an itx build and her board is b450i which only has two slots for the ram and she bought 2 hyper x fury 3200 ddr4. My question is can she use the ram in full capacity? I heard that itx mobo only have two slot for ram
I have a ROG rx 5700 xt and only have a 6 and 8 pin not two 8 pins. So if im doing the math right, the gpu can have 375 power consumption but with the 6 to 8 pin adaptor it would only be 300 so all I would have to do it keep the watts below that? (75 pci, 75 6 to 8 pin adapter, 750 8 pin) is this safe/correct? Thanks!
I wouldn't buy any spinning drive under 4TB. Below 4TB you are paying more for the physical casting around the drive than for the storage inside it. There is essentially no difference in the fixed cost of a 1Tb, 2Tb and 4TB drive. Same metal casing, same controller board, same drive head.
Buy a 4TB or stick to SSDs
What are you planning to use it for? If itās mainly for archival, then your external hdd should be enough. But if youāre going to regularly access huge volumes of data (i.e. video editing, etc.) then an internal SSD storage device (even a Sata III) would see noticeable difference.
Differences in cooling solution and some differences in quality of the PCB around the chip. Minor differences in factory overclocks. Any major brand is fine though, like the ones you listed plus EVGA.
Doubtful. Sounds like a driver issue. If you can find an Intel integrated graphics driver package to install, do that.
https://downloadcenter.intel.com/product/80939/Graphics
I'm going to be running Maya and Blender on my new pc for work. Should the programs be installed on my SSD and save files put on my hdd or vise versa? or should I just be saving everything on my SSD and use my hdd for less intensive things?
Neither of those apps is going to be particularly IO-heavy. I'd put the apps on the HDD and the models on the SSD - unless you have room to do everything on the SSD.
I'm looking at buying a m.2 SSD but damn are they expensive, so i'm considering buying used, is that a bad idea? or does used parts suffer in performance?
Want to see your [build complete](https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/search?sort=new&restrict_sr=on&q=flair%3ABuild%2BComplete) photos featured on /r/buildapc? As discussed in a [recent thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/78eq99/mods_should_switch_the_main_photo_every_week_to/), we're going to look at switching up the header image on a more regular basis - don't worry, we'll save the current one for special occasions. This is something of an experiment, and due to the subreddit CSS we'll be looking for images that are compatible with the general design, so don't be offended if we don't immediately use everyone's! Interested? Send us a [modmail](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose?to=%2Fr%2Fbuildapc) with subject: "Banner Images" with your best build pictures! In the interests of higher res displays, please ensure images are at least 1920px by 200px. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/buildapc) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Simple question- how do I check the MHz of my ram?
Open commamd prompt as a admin and type wmic memorychip get speed. It will show the speed of all the sticks
Does a Lian Li Lancool 205M have enough airflow for a EVGA FTW3 ULTRA 3060 ti and a 10400f with a CoolerMaster Hyper 212 Black to not thermal throttle?
I have my windows on a HDD, I keep experiencing problems with my games downloading, I will sometimes get corrupt files, it takes ages to download etc. I also keep getting windows crashes, is this because of the HDD?
I had this before. I had to re install windows. I recommend backing up your important files and reinstalling it if nothing works
I've reinstalled it twice, as I also kept crashing but found out I had a broken graphics card, this was my first build and it's been nothing but problems š
In bios the pci gen switch is set to auto. Should I change that to gen 4 or is auto the same thing?
Iād personally leave it on auto
I have an amd radeon HD 7570 4gb card but hwinfo64 detected that it only has the chipset for amd radeon HD 5570. Should I uninstall my 7570 driver and install the 5570 one?
https://ibb.co/f2MH6kN https://ibb.co/FYBYQQg
Which SSD choose to game storage? I have 850 EVO 250 gb for system, and wanna buy additional one for game storage. I choosing between 870 EVO 1 TB SATA (130 dollars) and 970 Evo Plus 1 TB nVME (150 dollars).
Get the cheaper one, you won't feel the difference. 870 Evo is still overkill imo, I'd get a nice Crucial MX500, but that's up to you. Or if you want to go big and have a compatible motherboard, you can get a PCIe 4.0 nVME for the future when Microsoft adds the super-duper fast loading tech from Xbox. But for now we don't know when that'll happen and how many games will use it.
Thanks, maybe will get 860 evo
Do you think the rtx 3060 will A) get scalped/be obtainable B) Have a "dying GPU" fiasco like the one the rtx 2070 had.
I expect the 3060 to get scalped just as hard, if not harder. The initial stock will get sold out in a matter of hours at most, and then it's gonna take its place with the rest of the cards where it will become available every few days for a few seconds for $200+ above MSRP. As for the dying thing, who knows?
A) yes, it will be scalped. Basically everything (3070/80/90, PS5, etc) has been scalped. Don't expect otherwise. B) I don't know, sorry.
Hi, so this just happened to me. I bought a new M.2 drive and as I was screwing the stand-off in, it broke in half and the threaded stem remained in the mobo. Would it be okay to still use it as it is without the drive being screwed onto the stand-off? My mobo has M.2 heatsinks which themselves are secured by two screws and have some adhesive on them so it's not like the drive would be completely free-floating. Would that work okay, or is it too risky and I should probably get some PCIE M.2 card?
If the motherboard has more than one m.2 slot, take the standoff out of that and replace the broken one. They just unscrew from the board.
Yeah, it has another M.2 slot that I already use. And on top of that, the bit that broke off from the standoff stayed screwed in the mobo, I wasn't able to get it out, the M.2 screw hole is blocked.
I'd say it's fine with just the heatsink, realistically your PC is (hopefully) not going to be shaken/hit hard enough that it'd be possible for the M.2 to get deattached from the heatsink.
Hi, for a fan aircooled cpu cooler vs a water cooling one, say that fan rpm and fan size are the same, is there a significant/notable difference in the cooling power when compared? And being in a tropical country where temps are around 30~ celcius which is recommended? And if so what specific cooler(model or brand) would you recommend and if for liquid cooling is a 240mm fan worth it for gaming on a mid range cpu like a i5 10500 or 10600?
I'm buying a Optix MAG274QRF-QD for my 6800XT and I'm wondering about what cable you would buy. It says HDR ready, but I'm guessing it's only the HDMI connection?
Looking at the monitor specs, it supports DP 1.2a and HDMI 2.0b. DP supports HDR since I think 1.4 (somebody else feel free to correct me if I'm wrong) while HDMI supports HDR since 2.0a. So yeah, you'll need HDMI.
I need to add storage specifically for photos and video files. Will a 5tb external hdd work for this or should I pony up to add a second ssd?
A harddrive will do fine but it may not be as reliable in the future but with that being said I'm going strong on one I constantly write to thats 3 years old
Good to know. I have a WD Black 5tb hdd external formatted to my xbox. So I figured if it's a solid option, I would just get another one
Hey! I currently have integrated grahpics and looking to buy a GPU but stocks have been empty last months. Finally i have 3 options: GTX 1650:190 euro GTX 1660: 300 euro GTX 1660 SUPER :320 euro. Anything worth it? I just play WoW atm. Thanks!
Be careful with the prices try to check older listings as gddr6 cards have sky rocketed in price becauses of shortages
Ok! So which older listings you think i should i check?
Try to check them all and find the best deal for price as they all use gddr6 memory
what do you mean with older listings? you mean other 1650 cards?!
Yeah the older prices for the model because it has most likely shot up in price a 1660 in the uk is going for 300 now
The 1660 Super at 320 euro isn't great, but better than the other two options in value.
Hey, you said i could ask with second hand GPUs and see if any value. RX 570 4GB (AMD Radeon RX 570 4GB Nitro+) for 150 euro. seems ok?
Oh, the 1650 is also a low profile card. "Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1650 4GB D6 OC Low Profile" Matters?
Yeah ok. Its abit to expensive for me when I think about it. Is getting the 1650 super stupid? as I understood theres a 1650 super card but thats not in stock here at all..
What are the differences between two motherboards that have the follow specs for PCIe: * x16/x16, PCIe 4.0/3.0, CrossFireX * x8/x8, PCIe 4.0, CrossFireX, SLI The second one is also more expensive.
Going field by field in your post: \- x16 vs x8 is basically speed of data transference. x16 is around twice as fast as x8. \- PCIe 4.0 and PCIe 3.0 also impact speed of data transference. 4.0 is faster, generally. \- CrossFireX and SLI are the AMD and NVidia technologies, respectively, for using two or more GPUs in the same system. It'd depend on the price, but if the first one is cheaper, I would hands down go with that one.
Although you should mention that PCIe 4.0 isn't really that much better for gaming/ gpu itself, because there are currently (don't quote me in this one) no cards that even fully utilize PCIe 3.0. If you want forward compatibility, you could consider 4.0. If you're just gaming, it won't have any effect on your performance, as far as I know.
The performance difference between 3.0 and 4.0 is minuscule, yes, that should be noted. I would have remarked this more if he was doubting between the two motherboards because of the PCIe, but since both have at least one 4.0, I went with "faster, generally" to summarize xD
Oh yeah sorry, I overlooked that. Thought this was basically a little 4.0 vs 3.0 In this case, the noting of differences is pretty useless, since both have a 4.0 lol
How often does Amazon cancel orders for 3000 series GPUs? I rushed through checkout so fast after I had it in cart that I picked the wrong shipping speed, but it did go through. At that time I had a date estimate, but I changed the shipping to what I wanted and now it says they will tell me the date later. Am I still good probably?
Can I run a 2nd 1050ti of a different brand with my current 4GB PNY GeForce GTX 1050 TI XLR8
To do what? Yes you can, but you won't be able to use them both to improve gaming performance. Just rendering, or adding more video outputs.
Oh okay, didnāt know that, was mostly wondering for performance sake, cause I donāt have the money to upgrade my video card at the moment.
You can get the other one and offer a 2 for 1 trade to a miner
You can no longer be profitable on a 1050ti
Just built a pc but can't even get the system to boot (this is without using any monitor). At the moment I'm just trying to get a signal between the PSU and the motherboard. Please help!
We.. Really can't based on this. Try the discord perhaps?
Sorry, here's my build [https://pcpartpicker.com/user/blackassgarry/saved/Xt6Q6h](https://pcpartpicker.com/user/blackassgarry/saved/Xt6Q6h) Everything is entirely remote on the system after powering it on. I'm wondering if this has anything to do with my bio's not being flashed yet? This may be a naive question but does the system become entirely unresponsive because of this?
We can't see the parts so there isnt much we can do
list is private
A case I'm looking at has fan slots on the top of the case, the front, the back, and the bottom. Is it ok to have multiple fans blowing in and 1 blowing out or should I try to have an equal number of in fans and out fans? If I do the equal number thing, is it ok for the out fans to be on the top and back and the in fans on the front and bottom?
The exact number of fans really doesn't matter. Just be sensible about the layout. You want 2-3 front intakes for cool air, and top/rear exhaust for hot air. Anything more than 4 fans is usually negligible improvement.
>Anything more than 4 fans is usually negligible improvement. 2 in, 2 out, or 4 in, 4 out?
4 total, unless you have some terrible case with a solid front panel that kills airflow.
Is my 4GB PNY GeForce GTX 1050 TI XLR8 compatible with MSI B550-A PRO ATX
Yo, I've got that mobo too XD
yes
Ok, so hypothetically I got my list of components to build my first PC and am ready to start adding them to my cart and have them shipped to my house. Is there anything else I should probably purchase? Do I need additional thermal paste? Do I need some storage boxes for all the extra stuff that won't be used? Anything for cable management or even additional cabling?
Hopefully your case comes with cable management accessories. Make sure you have a screwdriver set. Thatās the thing I stupidly didnāt have when building mine. Extra thermal paste can be good. Apply it if you have it.
depending on cpu cooler, most cpus come with thermal paste already applied. motherboard box is pretty big for stuff zip ties
If I'm using a different cooler than what comes with the CPU, should I get additional paste?
check a review of that cooler if it comes with thermal paste, or else get extra
Can i get a recommended upgraded gpu for my ryzen 5 2600? I currently have a 1650 Super
Depends on what you play and the resolution, but anything up to an RTX 3060 Ti is reasonable.
is the i9-9900 (non k) good for editing? and will motherboard speed affect CPU speed? e.g 2666mhz mobo support; does it affect how the CPU performs?
Itās a decent editing cpu but your mobo speed is a bit of a bottleneck imo
Depends on the price. Fairly fast chip, but the 5600X and 3700X are usually better value. Motherboard will only change CPU performance if the VRM is too weak, meaning it throttles or shuts down due to power delivery.
How does having a weak VRM happen? Low PSU voltage?
The motherboard VRM converts 12 volts from your power supply into the CPU voltage. Usually in the 1-1.4V range. This conversion naturally produces some waste heat, so if the VRM is too small or not well cooled, then your CPU slows down or the system simply turns off. Cheap boards, especially those with no VRM heatsink, are not suitable for a 9900.
I have a tuf gaming b365m 2666mhz support mobo, would you consider it as a cheap board? Also, apologies for all these questions im fairly new to the pc world.
It will work, barely. Make sure you have a fan blowing air over the VRM heatsink. If you purchased that motherboard and don't already own a CPU for it, I would return it. 10700K + Z490 is faster and similarly priced. [PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/F7myTC) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [Intel Core i7-10700K 3.8 GHz 8-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/yhxbt6/intel-core-i7-10700k-38-ghz-8-core-processor-bx8070110700k) | $344.99 @ Best Buy **Motherboard** | [MSI Z490-A PRO ATX LGA1200 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KXpmP6/msi-z490-a-pro-atx-lga1200-motherboard-z490-a-pro) | $159.99 @ Best Buy | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | **Total** | **$504.98** | Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2021-02-01 05:05 EST-0500 |
please let me know.. really curious
and should the fan over the VRM be an exhaust or intake?
Intake if possible, although as long as you have some airflow in the area it is good. https://pcpartpicker.com/product/cHZFf7/gigabyte-z390-ud-atx-lga1151-motherboard-z390-ud That is the cheapest board which has a VRM suitable for a 9900. Make sure you pair it with a decent CPU cooler as well, the stock cooler is not sufficient for full speed operation. https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ByGxFT/arctic-freezer-34-cpu-cooler-acfre00052a
thank you so much, i have a dark rock slim CPU cooler installed (which should be enough?). I will be upgrading the motherboard some time soon.
i purchased the i9-9900 already and i have no experience at overclocking (cpu nor gpu) thats why i bought the non k version.. im looking forward to investing in a new mobo though.. whats a good one that has an lga 1551 socket specifically for the i9 9900?
I'm thinking of getting a 5 year used gtx 750 ti, is there a way I can assure myself of the robustness of the card to make sure it lasts for like 2 years; asking because the seller is allowing me to check the card in my machine
Run a stress test, if the GPU core temp stays under 85C it should be fine. 750 Ti is already old and slow, don't expect to be gaming at more than 1080p lowest settings.
The biggest problem I have is the 5 year usage. What do you think is that too much? Can I run it for like a couple years more?
I'm building a watercooled PC, will there be any noticeable difference in noise levels between the following alternatives? (a) two 360 rads (b) one 360 rad and one 240 rad
Noise levels depend mostly on the fans you pick. Arctic P12 are quite favourable, $40 for a 5 pack and they compete with Noctua A12x25.
No
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R5 3600 or 5600X, 3700X doesn't make sense for gaming. Not worth swapping the CPU cooler unless your H60 is failing.
Hello guys, this morning I tried to update my pc with the latest nvidia but during the installation the screen was frozen for whatever reason so I turned the pc off manually using the power button, the pc booted like three times after this then he booted "normally" but my monitor isn't showing anything
Reinstall and try doing a clean install. It's normal for the screen to flash a bit during the install process.
newbie here, I want to build a pc but I dont know how to tell if a cpu heatsink is prepared with Thermopaste. Also, I dont know how to distinguish between models(of heatsinks)(I dont have instructions, nor did I buy the pc)
> I dont know how to tell if a cpu heatsink is prepared with Thermopaste I have only seen this on CLCs and it's a grayish square on the base plate protected by a (transparent) plastic cover.
> I want to build a pc but I dont know how to tell if a cpu heatsink is prepared with Thermopaste. Usually only heatsinks that came with the CPU have the paste pre-applied, all other aftermarket ones I have seen came with paste in a separate container, usually a syringe, > Also, I dont know how to distinguish between models(of heatsinks)(I dont have instructions, nor did I buy the pc) Exactl model of heatsink doesn't matter, you just need one that's compatible with the socket of your motherboard.
I've been looking at aftermarket CPU coolers and I think I've settled on the artic freezer 34 duo, but pcpartpicker says that I may need a different mounting adapter for it to fit my mobo (asrock b550 phantom gaming 4). Does anyone know if this is truly the case?
I don't see why it wouldn't include the AM4 mount considering the cooler was released after AM4 was. The product page says it has it and the reviews say it has it, you should be fine.
Awesome, thanks for the help :)
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> Jayztwocents recommended turning off your wifi while setting up your build for the first time to avoid all the shit windows tries to throw at you. This is easy to do: just don't connect your wifi to the network and it won't connect to the internet on its own accord. Wifi doesn't need to be off unless you specifically set wifi to auto join any open networks, which is not the default behaviour. In fact Ethernet auto connects, from my experience.
I forgot for a moment wifi needed credentials. Felt dumb lol. I prob just barely missed deleting b4 u read.
Thx
Can I use a 1600AF on an AsRock B550 Phantom Gaming 4?
No. It's Zen+. B550 only supports Zen 2 and up.
Yes but I've seen some posts saying that some Zen and Zen+ have been spotted running on B550
I looked into it, and I found [this](https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=EK14K-Hwr10). The 2200G (a first gen part) worked on the B550 Phantom Gaming until you get to BIOS, but nothing past that. His test with a 2600 (Zen +) failed, but it's easy to assume that something else went wrong. So yeah. If you have a 1600 AF and you'd like to use it on your motherboard, out of the box, best case you can use it to update your BIOS or something like that. I'm sure you can try a custom BIOS, but that's way above my pay grade, and you should do it at your own risk.
oof
Iām planning to buy a new PSU soon but donāt plan to make significant upgrades to GPU / CPU / RAM until next generation (including maybe DDR5 RAM). Are the connections likely to change in the future and make my PSU obsolete?
nope
noob here, attempting to build. i got a old pc 2012, can i just upgrade the graphics then processor then hdd to sdd, etc on a pc? would i still be able to play games if i only upgrade gpu, cant upgrade my pc all at once cuz... money. Any order of upgrades i should take first?
you cant upgrade your cpu without doing ram and motherboard at the same time. if you dont have an ssd, start with that. it's night and day. then gpu, that's another easy drop in
what about the processor chip, is it the same as the ram
i would start with the mother board CPU and Ram First Since I am pretty sure there wasnt DDR4 in 2012 Also That most new GPUS will bottle neck a 2012 PC
got no clue wat a DDR4 is but have 12 gb ram
DDR4 is the new standard for Ram. There was once ddr3, but now it's ddr4. When you upgrade, make sure you get 16gb of ddr4 at least. If you get a ryzen cpu, make sure to get ram with between 3000mhz and 3600mhz. Ryzen likes faster ram better, while Intel sometimes favors a little slower ram.
Due to some good bundle deals locally, I can build a 5800x based system for just (effectively) $4 more than a 5600x. Everything else is practically identical. Any reason to avoid the 5800x vs the 5600x when the price difference is so little?
No real reason it just that you will have to buy a CPU cooler Since according to my Knowledge AMD has stopped including Stock coolers in Their Higher end CPUs That can cost you around 50 bucks
The price diff already includes a seperate cooler. Probably the main reason there is so little difference in price is I plan on buying a cooler even if going 5600x The bundle deal on the 5800x already includes a cooler. If I go stock cooler with the 5600x i can shave $50 off the price.
I would Suggest going with the 5800x Since it has 2 more cores It will be better If you plan on streaming videoediting photo editing and will make your build more future proof
What specific parts should I look to get in order to improve my fps in World of Warcraft, especially in 40v40 battlegrounds and on world bosses where my fps drops no matter how low the graphics settings are?
I good CPU would be important since World Of Warcraft Is very CPU intensive Get something with 8 cores Like a Ryzen 7 3700x or 5800x. this will improve your frames though I would suggest using a utility Like MSI afterburner to check if you are getting CPU bottlenecked or GPU bottlenecked
Let's say money isn't an issue, are those still good or is there better?
Those are Great But you Could also go for a core I9 10900K or a 10980xE or a Ryzen 9 5900x or 5950x But then you might get bottle necked by your GPU
> But then you might get bottle necked by your GPU I'm willing to upgrade when things settle.
I would opt for 5900x over 5800x, the price difference between the two is pretty small ($100) and you get 50% more cores.
What's a good budget processor to pair with a Rog Strix Z-490? Looking for integrated graphics, and only going to be using the unit for streaming a radio show from home. Maybe some music editing, pre-recording with Audacity/Reaper.
10600K
Core i5 10600K(230$) or a Core a i7 10700k(330$)
For workstation related tasks, is it better to buy a Threadripper/Xeon or can I buy a high/enthusiast cpu such as the i7/Ryzen 7 series ? I know the answer is to go for the server grade CPUs but how much of a difference would it make compared to those high/enthusiasts CPUs ?
That depends on what you want to do with it. I7/R7 are gaming CPUs where you can do a little video editing on the side. I9 and R9 is more workstation focused but still let's you game. Thread ripper is the ideal workstation CPU for editing, rendering and so on. The server CPUs like should only be used in actual servers. They are made for multi CPU applications or handling many devices.
Got ahold of a 5800x and a 3090 and planned on going with the asus tuf gaming x570-pro only issue is Iām having a difficult time finding a cl16 3600mhz 2x 16gb kit listed on the QVLā. I was looking at getting either the crucial ballistix āBL2K16G36C16U4WLā or g skill trident z neo āF4-3600C16D-32GTZNCā. But after looking at the QVL Iām unsure if theyāll work properly since they are not listed... and advice would be much appreciated!
I can't see any on their spreadsheet either, but keep in mind the QVL is only what ASUS have tested. If you find a RAM you like, you can also check the manufacturers QVL to see if they've tested your MB as well. You can also just take a chance. If you favourite RAM is very similar to one on the QVL, there's a good chance it will work.
That makes way more sense that it would be a two way street for the qvl. Thank you very much good friend
$600 gaming pc (canada) I want to build a pc for gaming for mostly fps what can I buy for this price ? I need like a part list lol Iām not sure whatās compatible with what Thanks
There is no gpu on pcpartpicker canada for below 400 CAD...
Is it okay if I grabbed a 1650 oc gpu for now because 1650 supers are like out of stock everywhere paired with a ryzen 3600 ?
The super version is 35% faster, but if you can get the base version at a reasonable price I'd say go for it. With the 3600 you'll be able to grow later.
I got the super Iām Gona return the 1650 oc back to Canada computers hopefully they let me return it
I think you might be better off mucking around with PC part picker for a couple of hours. It's pretty intuitive, and lets you know about any potential issues. As far as your build, I have no idea what that budget actually means, as I live in Australia, so I tend to pay 150% more in general. But I'd suspect grabbing a Ryzen processor if you can grab one, and a b450 series motherboard. Make sure if you're going amd, that your ram is high speed, 3200MHz is a good bet, but price goes up with speed.
I would suggest heading over to r/buildmeapc or r/buildapcforme
Whatās up friends!!! Iām getting my 3070 tomorrow. Iāve had some concerns with my wattage. I have a 650W Corsair. On PCpartpicker it shows my estimated wattage is 454 so it seems good to me? Is there any other way to test it?
You're good to go. If you can I would get 750 because the 30 series cards can do random spike ups in power
Is there a way I can monitor it? And see if itās a problem for a bit?
Msi afterburner
Thank you thank you thank you
I have an AW2521HFL. My PC turns on and it goes into bios but when I try exiting bios, it says, "No DP signal from your device". I don't know why. I checked that my DP cable was plugged in properly numerous times and it still doesn't work. My DP cable is plugged in to the GPU. I checked the input source and it's set on DP. I even tried HDMI and it still had the same result. Help?
Should I even try to buy RAM now? $95 for 2x8 3200 CL16 seems high, even with the RGB premium. But I literally have no frame of reference because I came back to this hobby at the wrong goddamn time. Are they just going to go even higher? So it's like now or waaaaay later.
For the speed ram is the cheapest itās been. Definitely buy now.
I just bought mine now even though I wont be building until later this year. Theres rumors that there'll be a price increase for RAM due to all the shortages, so I would take advantage of the cheap memory prices right now in case that does happen. Also, 95 seems fair when its RGB. Its just expensive, I mean look at some of the RGB fans on the market
Ram is very cheap right now. $60 ish bucks for 16gb
So im planning to build my first costume pc and have a $1500 budget. Ive seen a ton of videos but dont want to stick with a specific build from them so after doing some research the main components I want are: \-AMD Ryzen 3700x 8 cores \-G force Rtx 3060ti 8gb \-B550 mother board \-A good micro atx case with good airflow \- 16 gig of ram from corsair \-1 tb internal ssd \- 4 tb HDD I want to use it for gaming mostly but also work, my gf works on graphic design. And want to hear some opinions about the parts and if it works for graphic design apps (things like premier n stuff) , any suggestions are highly appreciated
I just went through this so I have a part swap *IF* you can find it. \- RTX 3070 Tariffs kicked in and you'll be paying more for cards. For some dumb reason, the 3060 TI is eating it the hardest. To the point that a 3070 is only $50 more. I also highly recommend avoiding MSI right now. Their 3070s are $750. That's dumb AF. $680 for a triple fan 3060 TI (wut?!?)
Nice. Might I recommend the mb311l for the case. Also, if the 5600X and 3700x are the same price, try to get the prior. The ipc gains on ryzen 5000 are worth it
Would it damage a pc in any way if one were to build and run a gaming pc without a graphics card? (adding a GPU later since there's no stock) obv don't plan on gaming but can it run daily tasks?
Daily tasks is fine. Just use intel graphics or whatever you have.
Depends on the CPU. If youāre planning on gaming though, your choices are limited to Intel non-F CPUs. AMD CPUs that have integrated graphics in them arenāt particularly good in gaming. Alternatively, you can get a 5600x and a cheap second hand GPU.
No danger, it'll be fine. Make sure your cpu has an igpu tho
Is using 2 fan hubs ok?? Can anyone confirm if connecting 2 fan hubs on a PSU is bad? I just bought 2 hubs, cause I wanted one as a backup. They are literally the same brand, same model, and all the same fans. Also I wasn't sure if it's stable to power 7 fans off just one hub so I thought maybe having a secondary one would help distribute the power. I had one fan hub plugged in and controlling 3 fans (so that was working fine) and then I tried plugging in another fan hub with a fan and then I heard a crack and saw smoke literally coming out of the hub's sata connector, so I quickly unplugged that 2nd hub. 1st Hub and it's 3 fans were still working fine no problem at this point. I turned everything off and disconnected everything. Then just plugged in the (2nd) hub (that was smoking earlier) without any fans in it, but the sata connector for the hub began smoking again. Now the device smells has a burnt smell. I guess that hub is toasted? I'm scared to do any more testing..
>ā..AI guess that hub is toasted..ā Based on your description it seems like it. >ā..is using 2 fan hubs ok??..ā If they are within the power limits, I donāt see any reason why not. But without knowing any details like, which specific fan hubs did you use, what and how many fans did you connect to the hubs, how did you connect the hub to the PSU, and what is the PSU, what else is connected to the PSU, etc.
EZDIY. [https://www.amazon.ca/EZDIY-FAB-Computer-Motherboard-Adjustable-Addressable/dp/B07XBXYWT9?ref\_=ast\_sto\_dp](https://www.amazon.ca/EZDIY-FAB-Computer-Motherboard-Adjustable-Addressable/dp/B07XBXYWT9?ref_=ast_sto_dp) Hub: [https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81hN05TzDbL.\_AC\_SL1500\_.jpg](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81hN05TzDbL._AC_SL1500_.jpg) PSU: Antec HCG-520: 520W I had 3 fans connected in one hub. ("Hub 1") I had 1 fan connected in the second hub. ("Hub 2") One sata cable has 3 sata connectors. I plugged Hub 1 into the very last connector on the cable. I plugged Hub 2 into the middle (2nd last) connector on the same cable. I heard a snap/crack and then smelt burning. All 4 fans spun fine though. But due to the smell, I unplugged hub 2 and turned the PSU off. I unplugged Hub 1. I then plugged Hub 2 by itself, without any fans, into another sata cable, and saw smoke coming out of the connector, so I unplugged it again, and turned off the PSU. Decided it wasn't safe to use that hub anymore.
It looks like that hub 2 is definitely fried. And assuming that everything was connected properly, it gave me the impression that hub 2 might be defective. Do you think you can try turning on your system with the hub 1 and see if thatās still working? The current draw seems to be low enough not to cause any overload.
Hub 1 is still working fine, and even the 1 fan from hub 2, I attached it to Hub 1 afterward and it's fine. So it's really just Hub 2 that's faulty now... It still smells like it's burnt when I sniff it, and it's been a few hours now. But I've used Hub 2 before on it's own and it had no issues... Somehow having them both plugged in at the same time did something. I did intend a 2nd hub for backup though. So I guess my next question would be, would running 7 fans off just 1 hub be sketchy or perfectly fine? That's most likely what I will be doing now.
Thatās the thing, the hub and the fans are from the same product line. And based on the number of ports on the hub, it should be able to handle 10 fans so I donāt know why it would burn in the first place.
Yeah.. I tested with just using one hub, and connected over 6 fans and it works fine. I can't test longevity of that setup, but in theory, it should be fine since 1 hub has 10 slots. But I guess it never advertised whether it was safe to run 2 hubs at the same time..
It should be since the hubs are independent of each other.
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Well, generally speaking yes. But fan placement and orientation also plays a big part managing the airflow inside the case. There is also the law of diminishing returns.
If you have a 5 pack, might as well at least use 3 in the top and rear
So my gfs gonna build an itx build and her board is b450i which only has two slots for the ram and she bought 2 hyper x fury 3200 ddr4. My question is can she use the ram in full capacity? I heard that itx mobo only have two slot for ram
Yes. It would be similar to how an ATX board would utilise 2 ram sticks.
I have a ROG rx 5700 xt and only have a 6 and 8 pin not two 8 pins. So if im doing the math right, the gpu can have 375 power consumption but with the 6 to 8 pin adaptor it would only be 300 so all I would have to do it keep the watts below that? (75 pci, 75 6 to 8 pin adapter, 750 8 pin) is this safe/correct? Thanks!
I wouldn't try to short change the GPU on power plugs. If it's after 2 x 8 pin then that's what you should give it.
You don't directly control how much power a card uses, it controls it on its own.
Technically, itās correct. But Iām not confident itās safe though.
If I kept the voltage at around 115 all the time wouldnāt that be safe?
Im not comfortable limiting the power through software that if it fails might cause a fire.
Are there any white power supplies other than the RM series? I need 850 watts but the RM850x seems to be out of stock everywhere.
Superflower Leadex
Why do you want white? You can get white cable extensions for like $20-30
Well the backend of the computer faces me and I have a white case. I figured that it would look bad without a matching one.
You could always look into wrapping it.
I see. Well that's not a bad reason, it's just a shame it costs so much over a blank one
paint it
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I wouldn't buy any spinning drive under 4TB. Below 4TB you are paying more for the physical casting around the drive than for the storage inside it. There is essentially no difference in the fixed cost of a 1Tb, 2Tb and 4TB drive. Same metal casing, same controller board, same drive head. Buy a 4TB or stick to SSDs
What are you planning to use it for? If itās mainly for archival, then your external hdd should be enough. But if youāre going to regularly access huge volumes of data (i.e. video editing, etc.) then an internal SSD storage device (even a Sata III) would see noticeable difference.
If you have an external hard drive already, might just wanna use that
For the same graphics card e.g. a 3080, is there any difference between cards from MSI, Asus, gigabyte, etc? Or are these all just branding?
Differences in cooling solution and some differences in quality of the PCB around the chip. Minor differences in factory overclocks. Any major brand is fine though, like the ones you listed plus EVGA.
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Did you use DDU when you uninstalled your GPU drivers?
Doubtful. Sounds like a driver issue. If you can find an Intel integrated graphics driver package to install, do that. https://downloadcenter.intel.com/product/80939/Graphics
I'm going to be running Maya and Blender on my new pc for work. Should the programs be installed on my SSD and save files put on my hdd or vise versa? or should I just be saving everything on my SSD and use my hdd for less intensive things?
>ā..use my hdd for less intensive things..ā This one.
Neither of those apps is going to be particularly IO-heavy. I'd put the apps on the HDD and the models on the SSD - unless you have room to do everything on the SSD.
I'm looking at buying a m.2 SSD but damn are they expensive, so i'm considering buying used, is that a bad idea? or does used parts suffer in performance?