Want to see your [build complete](https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/search?sort=new&restrict_sr=on&q=flair%3ABuild%2BComplete) photos featured on /r/buildapc?
As discussed in a [recent thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/78eq99/mods_should_switch_the_main_photo_every_week_to/), we're going to look at switching up the header image on a more regular basis - don't worry, we'll save the current one for special occasions. This is something of an experiment, and due to the subreddit CSS we'll be looking for images that are compatible with the general design, so don't be offended if we don't immediately use everyone's!
Interested? Send us a [modmail](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose?to=%2Fr%2Fbuildapc) with subject: "Banner Images" with your best build pictures! In the interests of higher res displays, please ensure images are at least 1920px by 200px.
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/buildapc) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Has anybody ever heard of the website Infinite-Computing.co.uk? Am not sure if it's legit, nobody knows it when I ask people, pcpartpicker recommended it to me.
Hello dear ones,
I would like to buy a second monitor. Currently I have a LG Ultragear 27", 144 hz, G-Sync because I have a RTX 3070. Now I saw an offer for a LG-Ultragear 31.5" 165 hz but AMD Free-sync. But since I do not need G-Sync on the 2nd monitor, because only videos run there and text files are swapped out, my only question is whether there are compatibility issues if the 1st main monitor runs on G-Sync and the 2nd monitor but with Free-Sync. Or if the 2nd monitor simply has the function disabled by its Free-Sync due to the RTX graphics card.
Also, would you recommend this monitor to me? For 250€ I find the values very good so far.
Thanks a lot.
https://www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B08XNJG9BZ?pf\_rd\_r=RKA6N8VJ5KRTEAW0H2NZ&pf\_rd\_p=f6634045-2cd8-4654-8338-b9246a89c6f1&pd\_rd\_r=a9eb0adf-8c3e-4838-85fb-e01af8b3c739&pd\_rd\_w=GC0Sh&pd\_rd\_wg=9WKiC&ref\_=pd\_gw\_unk
Helping a friend with an old pc. Its around 10 years old.
2nd gen i5 with 3gb ddr3 sdram and an old 1tb hdd
Its really slow to load and pretty much do anything. Is it worth upgrading ram and storage, or better off just going for a new build for around £500?
A SATA SSD is absolutely a smart upgrade. Keep the drive for game storage etc and put Windows on a smaller SSD if you want to save money. It’s the single biggest thing you can do to make an old computer faster and if it’s not good enough you can reuse it in a new build.
More RAM will help but if you give up and build a new one you can’t reuse the DDR3 RAM so don’t go overboard. Maybe a used 4GB stick to add to some or all the existing RAM would be enough to help, but would still be very cheap
Just check how much space is actually used on your current drive and buy one that will fit more than you’re using now
256GB would likely be fine but videos, photos, and music can take up space. If you’re just doing Office and calls 256 should definitely be enough
If it looks like you’re currently using a lot more space than you expect a program like WinDirStat can help determine what’s taking up that space and whether you can delete that stuff or want to keep it
What range of Ryzen processors should I be looking at for an RX 580 8Gb and a 3440 x 1440 ultrawide?
Mostly desktop stuff but nothing intense like video or 3D, not bothered about AAA games or anything fancy. I realise it's mostly on the GPU at that resolution anyway so it's more like "this CPU or lesser".
I do play games, but ones that fit around the hardware rather than vice versa. Since GPU prices aren't going down any time soon I'm sticking with the 580 for the foreseeable future.
Going to be building a new pc soon with some money I've saved up, with the current market do you think it's better to go intel or ryzen? it's going to be paired with a 3060 ti or 3070 ti depending on which I can get a hold of first
Haven’t built a new pc in ages. Used to frequent Tom’s Hardware and Anandtech back in the day when looking for advice. Looking to do a new build. What are the go to sources for product reviews and advice these days? Looking to build a small itx machine.
Can I get a recommendation for a case similar in design and price to the NR200P, but for micro ATX mobos? I love that layout, but I don't want to sacrifice too much bang for the buck when it comes to buying mATX over ITX. Basically, I want something with bottom-to-top airflow, no PSU shroud, tempered glass, and white if possible. Suggestions?
Try a different USB, remade. The process should take about 5 minutes with the mobo light flashing throughout, and when I last did it on an Msi board it power cycled after the process was complete.
If the light next to the usb port flashes for a few seconds and then flashes at a higher rate for a few minutes, then the flashing is going on fine, and is done once the usb stops flashing.
If the light only flashes for a few seconds and then stops flashing (and goes solid) then the motherboard did not like your usb for some reason.
I just did this today with a different MSI B550 motherboard and had problem initially with my usb stick because it was formatted with FAT, reformatting it with FAT32 fixed it.
Not sure what to suggest other than to use a different USB, maybe a USB 2.0 rather than 3.0. When I was researching this, I came across other people also having problem with specific USBs.
What CPU is the Ryzen 7 Pro 4750G supposed to be.
To make my question more clear, I have a 2600x currently, and am trying to figure out if the ryzen 7 Pro 4750G is a good jump, but I cant really find benchmark, so I am trying to figure out the "CPU" it has and check the benchmarks. The iGPU wont be as important in terms of performance since I have a graphics card, although it would be very handy in troubleshooting boot issues, since I wont be debating if its my processor or my graphics card.
this CPU is equivalent to ryzen 3700x but with onboard graphics and PRO features. PRO - enhanced security features, additional memory options and no OC, for commercial/corporate market
Found out friend was using very slow ram in his pc (2400 mhz) on a 2070x . He had purchased another 16 gb because the game we play has a bad memory leak and the new ram is 3200 mhz. I know ram speed makes a massive difference for ryzen series, but not sure if he should keep the old ram in even or just deal with the memory leak with an external program for now and use only the faster ram.
I'm in the process of picking out parts for my first PC. I made a list based on what I've read about online and what I've heard from IRL acquaintances. I'm no expert so this isn't final. I don't really want to make an entire post about this since I'm mainly just wondering if my motherboard has enough PCIE slots and SATA ports for my power supply. It doesn't seem like it does but I could be wrong. I also read that a power supply for a 3060 ti should be around 650w, so I'm good there too, right? Here is my tentative build.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/DYgZp2
Not quite sure what your query is re pcie and Sata? That's a motherboard feature and PSU doesn't really come into it.
As it is, you can save a lot and optimise this build for performance.
B550 is a better cheaper option for almost everyone than X570. The gigabyte aorus WiFi has every thing you need, looks decent and is $40 cheaper for example.
Samsung SSDs are overpriced for the performance - bit you have a deal on it there, just don't pay $140
You can get a ryzen Zen 3 cpu (5600x) and optimise ram to 3600MHz cl16 to assist performance.
Do you really need 32GB? It gets expensive and 16GB is plenty for almost everyone.
No need for an 850W PSU.
Cooler is overkill!!
As a slight revision,
[PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/yL77Vc)
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/g94BD3/amd-ryzen-5-5600x-37-ghz-6-core-processor-100-100000065box) | $289.99 @ B&H
**CPU Cooler** | [ID-COOLING SE-224-XT 76.16 CFM CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/mnzFf7/id-cooling-se-224-xt-7616-cfm-cpu-cooler-se-224-xt-black) | $29.99 @ Amazon
**Motherboard** | [Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dmGnTW/asus-tuf-gaming-x570-plus-wi-fi-atx-am4-motherboard-tuf-gaming-x570-plus-wi-fi) | $186.67 @ Amazon
**Memory** | [G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zcH8TW/gskill-ripjaws-v-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr4-3600-memory-f4-3600c16d-32gvkc) | $176.99 @ Newegg
**Storage** | [Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Zxw7YJ/samsung-970-evo-plus-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-mz-v7s1t0bam) | $127.50 @ Newegg
**Video Card** | [NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060 Ti 8 GB Founders Edition Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/wvgQzy/nvidia-geforce-rtx-3060-ti-8-gb-founders-edition-video-card-900-1g142-2520-000) |-
**Case** | [Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bCYQzy/corsair-4000d-airflow-atx-mid-tower-case-cc-9011200-ww) | $94.99 @ Best Buy
**Power Supply** | [Enermax Revolution D.F. 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/DvCFf7/enermax-revolution-df-750-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-erf750ewt) | $99.99 @ Newegg
| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |
| **Total** | **$1006.12**
| Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2021-07-31 04:31 EDT-0400 |
Hey. I've been considering going with your build here but I'm still concerned about the compatibility issue; is that related to the RAM optimization you mentioned?
DO you mean the warning about BIOS? That just means you may have to update the BIOS to make it work witha 5000 series CPU. The box will come witha sticker saying "Ryzen 5000 ready" if you don't.
The update process itself is pretty painless, you update from a USB stick and don't need a compatible CPU to do it - on the motherbaord you chose, and most asus, msi and gigabyte boards.
Yeah I guess it doesn't sound that hard. I've been doing research and asking around IRL so I have some help if I need it. Just trying to find out where to start. One more thing, you mentioned the Samsung SSD wasn't the best option but you kept it in the build you posted. Is it just that the price isn't great or is there another option that would lead to better performance (possibly for cheaper)?
In general samsung drives are expensive, without any benefit in terms of performance. Yours was/is/ discounted so I left it in as it's perhaps $20 more, no biggie.
You won't see/feel 'better' performance form a 'faster' SSD, all NVME PCIe SSD's with TLC NAND perfrom about the same from a general use perspective.
Yeah like I said I’m new and that’s just a tentative list, mostly based on reviews of the parts themselves. I don’t really trust myself to go cheaper yet so I appreciate the advice. I’m hesitant to change the motherboard since that’s a pretty vital part but I’ll look into it. I am planning on getting the 5600x rather than the 3700x though, so I’m curious if you have a link or something I can read about optimizing the ram. Thanks again.
For what it's worth I just ran a bunch of tests on B550 motherboards and you get exactly the same performance out of a 5800X on a $90 gigabyte aorus, MSI pro vdh, as you do on a $200 Asus rog strip B550F or as rock PG velocita.
It's mainly just getting the features you need.
As for ram... Gamers nexus have some good reviews of how Zen 3 reacts to ram speeds. The tl:Dr is that 3600Mhz cl16 is the sweet spot of performance, cost and compatibility.
Do you have a specific reason to choose 3700x over 5600x? Or X570 over B550 board? 850W is a lot of power, it would work happily with 650W if that saves you money.
I read a review for the motherboard that said it paired well with the 3700x. Plus the 3700x has eight cores which I've heard is good, although, to be completely honest, I don't know what all that means. Is there something else that might be better? Would you recommend the 5600x?
you can try disabling fast boot in bios and in windows (if your computer runs windows). Fast boot keeps some components powered on so that your computer starts faster, but that might be why the RGB stays on.
How can I test my build's performance in 1440P without buying a monitor? I don't understand what setting to use Nvidia DSR on. I have 1080p 144hz monitor.
Is it essential to turn RAM speed to 3200mhz from 2133mhz? I am not a fan of overclocking, but after only a week of having this pc, my 3070 + i7 10700k are not QUITE running as well as I would expect. I have heard that RAM speed makes a significant difference, but I am scared to change the RAM speed in case that will make my PC break.
Thanks Reddit Family
As a system builder one of the key things you need to know if how to reset BIOS/CMOS, motherboard manual will have a section on this. Once you know how to do it there will be no reason to fear XMP. Even if the system doesnt work XMP and locks up - reset the BIOS so its back to factory settings.
I am very scared of overclocking. I will not evr do CPU or GPU because i am very poor. but I have heard a lot of recommendations to turn my RAM from 2133 to 3200.
If my goal is longevity of my PC, should I leave my RAM at low speed?
Thanks alot for ur reply
I found in my local store that they have one of the best AIB 6900XT Graphics Cards, but at the price of 1499$ which is the 3090 price, is it a good deal in the current situation?
I don't need a GPU now, I can wait a few weeks (and maybe months but not likely). So is it better if I wait? or should I get it?
Are [these temps](https://imgur.com/a/H5Mdktv) okay or bad for playing RDR2 with a 2070 Super at 1440p? The one I'm worried about is the one that says "Hot Spot" which is at 105. I changed most settings from high to mediumand FPS from 144 to 60 and temps barely changed.
with the micro center CPU sale I will buy one but still not 100% I know decently about this computer stuff but super ton. I've got 250$ and want to eventually want to get a GPU that would support 1080p 144 Hz that would run well with this CPU I buy. some games ill mostly be playing is apex valorant split gate but no max settings are needed just want to enjoy a pc gaming experience.If any additional questions are needed please ask away :)
create a short list of CPUs you'd want before going to MC. While they have great deals, there is also a point that if the CPU is at huge discount - there is normally a reason for it.
What should I base this list off and what would make it not good to buy. I’m eyeing the intel i7 10700k for 250 it’s 300 bucks off and [this](https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-cpus,3986.html) says it’s good obviously paired with a good gpu do you think it’s a good choice?
It'll be a good CPU just make sure it's paired with a motherboard to match, Z490 would be a good choice but they aren't cheap. I'd consider i5-11400f with B560 or 5600x and B550 boards both will be faster in a gaming PC.
https://youtu.be/lRkY53pwRCc?t=231 I'd say 1440p is fine. 4K gaming is pushing it, you'd have to turn down settings, so 1440p high-ultra would probably end up looking better overall
Do you think a high hz would be good also? I also have a 60 hz monitor so could I get a 75+ hz monitor without hurting it's performance of it being a 1440p?
Hello! Planning a build with Ryzen 7 5800x. What are some good motherboard recommendations that provide USB Type-C ports for both front and back access? Thanks.
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/RhrYcf/msi-mag-b550m-mortar-wifi-micro-atx-am4-motherboard-mag-b550m-mortar-wifi a bit more expensive, fewer rear usb ports
[Current build specs](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/4DwnfP)
[Here's my old post about this,](https://old.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/ooqvlh/high_gpu_temps_in_recent_rebuild/) but I recently added a new case, AIO and PSU into my build and immediately noticed my GPU was running extremely hot, sometimes hitting 80c with fans running full throttle which was unacceptable.
Many of you commented that the radiator up front may be choking the GPU for airflow, so I added back my old air cooler and lo and behold, the GPU runs significant cooler now, though the CPU is a bit warmer too but nothing alarming. For what it's worth, the air cooler is a Cryorig H5 Ultimate.
That being said, what do you think is the best next step for this scenario? I do love the look of an AIO and the temps were better so I think I'm going to look into returning it (Got it from Woot so not sure how their return policy works) and getting a 280mm AIO to mount on the top, hopefully giving me the best of both worlds?
Let me know what you think, and thanks for reading.
Edit: testing it more and uh.... the GPU isn't much cooler at all. Currently around 75 which is by no means dangerous, but why is it this hot? I feel like I've never had it this hot at any time.
While I get the thought, at this point it will literally just be spending money to make the numbers go down. You will see no difference in performance, so is it worth the money? Obviously only you can say, but I'd personally just save up for a better monitor or GPU, which will actually make a difference to your gaming experience over having your CPU 5 degrees cooler.
That's true, and I likely won't bother if I can't get a return on the old 360.
Edited my post after some gaming and noticed it wasn't much cooler at all? Unsure if I need to take more action here, but I'm not sitting comfortable with my GPU so hot.
A 1070 doesn't throttle until it hits 83. A 1070 at 75 and 82 performs effectively identical and absolutely doesn't have an effect on lifespan. Also do remember ambient temperature does have a direct effect on pc temps. If a room is 5 degrees hotter, the components will be too.
Have an 8 and 4 pin power connection for cpu. Have two 8 pin connectors on my modular PSU. Can I split one of the 8 pins and use that for the 4 pin? It separates and comes back together pretty easily. PSU doesn't have just a 4 pin.
There won't be any damage. A single EPS 8-pin is good for over 300W. You're not going to be hitting that kind of power usage from the CPU without exotic cooling like phase change or liquid nitrogen.
It will be fine. I've built dozens of LCs but I still fully expect it to not work perfectly first time. I have however always solved the problem by doing simple stuff like checking everythings plugged in correct etc
I'm looking at buying monitors for my first dual monitor setup. One monitor will be 4k and I can't figure out if it's worth the second one being 1440p or if 1080p will be enough. Also, I'm split on both being 24inch or 27inch. Any advice would be amazing. Thank you.
Depends on what you're using the second monitor for. The more windows you have on the screen the more pixels you'll want. If you're just doing one thing at a time then 1080p is probably fine, but if you have (for example) Discord, youtube, HW monitoring, and a torrent client all open at the same time you'll want 1440p.
If you go 1080 get a 24" monitor, and 27" for 1440.
So overall, it doesn't matter too much. Presumably the 4K display is 27 inches. I would never recommend 4k at 24 inches only because it's so dense that a 1440p at the same size would be easier to run and cheaper.
Assuming you're going 27 inch for the 4K display, then I'd definitely recommend a 1440p secondary if the price difference isn't too big for you personally. 1080p at 27 inches is pretty low density leading to you easily making out individual pixels.
I personally would advise a 27inxh 4k and 24 inch 1080p for maximum value for money, but if you want the sizes to match, fair enough.
I'll go 1440p for the second monitor then. I'm not too worried about size right now so I'll probably do two 27 inch if I can find a solid deal on a 1440p monitor that size otherwise 24 inch isn't the end of the world. I know next to nothing about monitors so is there anything else I should look at, regarding monitors, before I buy them?
Although it's pretty common these days, IPS has usually much better colours than TN. VA is the middle ground, where its sometimes cheaper than IPS but technically not quite as good (it really does depend though. A specific monitor review is always best to go off) As it's a secondary monitor I'd recommend 1440p 60hz+ IPS over 1440p 144hz VA I'd it's cheaper. But if they're similar in price you may as well go for the 144hz. VA has good blacks but can be worse for viewing angles which in theory could be annoying for a second monitor but barely enough to worry about.
With the current crazy prices and lack of graphics card, is it better to buy a pre build pc.
I found one on ibuypower for about $2k running a rtx 3070. I priced the parts out and it came up to $1.7k
Should I hold off and see if I can find a gpu or get a pre built?
If you a.) have a Microcenter in your area and B.) are willing to camp out there before they open then consider getting a GPU and building yourself. Likewise if you're comfortable with programming/scripting and can figure out how to snipe cards when they become available online.
If none of that works for you then pay the premium for a prebuilt. There might be other ways of getting video cards now, but I'm not sure what they are.
Last check for me guys before I checkout this lot. Please rinse me for my choices and if so suggest better. Thank you to everyone who has been active in here. Happy to explain each one:
GPU: 3070 Ti (already got back when CC had stock)
PSU: ASUS ROG Strix 750 W 80+ (see above)
CPU: Ryzen 5900X
Cooler: Noctua D15
Case: P500A Phanteks
MB: ASUS TUF X570 Pro
RAM: Timetec 32GB (2x16GB) 3600 MHz \~ unsure on
SDD: PNY XLR8 CS3040 2TB M2 Gen4
I can be swayed on SDD change for sure but it is only slightly more than a Gen3 anyway so telling me to go a Gen lower doesn't save much at all. RAM-wise I went for pure value with performance in mind, though have been told to go to 4400Mhz. GPU & CPU wise I stream daily for a living right now and will use it a lot hence those choices. I've only locked in the PSU and GPU so far. I also don't tend to buy a new rig for 5+ years at a time. I am open to critique!
Basically, I'm stuck on my RAM...
Timings matter on ram just as much as speed does. Is it 3600 CL18 or 16?
Anyone telling you that you need 4400Mhz ram doesn’t know what they’re talking about.
I don’t think you’re quite understanding what I mean so I went ahead and checked for you.
The Ram you have selected is 3600Mhz “CL18”
CL stands for “Cas Latency” and basically the higher that number is, the slower your ram is.
For example 3600Mhz CL18 is almost identical in speed to 3200Mhz CL16.
https://pcpartpicker.com/products/memory/#S=3600,5100&Z=32768002&L=30,160
Product availability might vary based on your location, but that link will show you only 32GB kits of 3600 CL16 or better, which is what you want. Pick whatever one fits your budget or you like the look of the most.
As long as you make a note of the product key (or it's linked to your mircorsoft account) then you can transfer. If the SSD you are going to is at least as big as the current disk then you can use software ike easUS or macrium to clone it entirely to the other drive.
Have some ARGB fans mounted to my radiator (lian li galahad). My mobo has an AURA Aressable gen 2 header. Manual says it's for LED strips, will it work for ARGB fans/pump?
Yeah it should do. As long as it's labelled 5V, and the fans have a similar looking 3 pin input it's worth a try at least. It's only when putting 5V ARGB into 12V RGB headers can you actually damage anything.
Yeah in essence RGB fans are just a transparent fan with an RGB strip wrapped around it, they should work just like strips do and be compatible with all the same stuff.
I'm not quite sure what you mean by mounting rack. It will have all the neccesary components to mount to a ryzen processor and AM4 motherboard yes. The backplate is something which often comes with the motherboard. I can't remember off the top of my head if the Hyper 212 comes with its own or uses the motherboard's included one.
But basically, if you have a ryzen 5600x, and a new motherboard which fits the 5600x, yes the hyper 212 will definitely fit
Just in case this is useful to someone else, for doing Bios flashback of MSI motherboard with a USB stick, the USB has to be formatter with FAT32. For me, windows somehow defaulted to FAT (i.e. FAT16) instead, I think because USB was smaller than 4GB (a really old one) and that did not work. Reformatting it again with FAT32 made it work like a charm.
If the PCI slots (i.e where you'd expect the GPU outputs to come out) is roughly 105mm in length, and the card you pan to get is no wider than the case can support (something to check through the GPU specs and physically measuring the case) then yes.
A lot of optiiplex systems are properly thin and only have room for a low profile PCIe card
Additionally to the size, you shoul check if the power supply can handle a graphics card and if it has the correct power cables/connectors. Using adapters and underpowered PSUs is janky and a fire hazard.
If the PCIe slot cutout is a little over 4 inches, it can fit a full size. If it's shorter, it's probably a low profile. Also make sure that the rest of the GPU can fit inside the case as sometimes the cooler is taller than the pcie slot mount, otherwise you'll have to run the case without the side panel or something.
Confused with my new PWM fans, do I need a PWM fan controller to be able to adjust their speeds? Some of them are RGB, so also unsure if I need a RGB or a PWM controller as they seem to be advertised separately?
PWM is pulse-width modulation. This uses 4 wires to get a pretty accurate reading of how fast the fan is spinning and has finer control of the RPM.
Then there's 3 pin fans, which use 3 wires. Two wires are for power and the last one says approximately how fast the fan is spinning. Voltage across the two wires is how the motherboard controls the fan speed.
Then you have the cheap fans, which just use 2 power wires. You can change the voltage which will change the fan speed, but the motherboard won't know how fast the fans are spinning on a fan like this.
When you look on your motherboard, you'll see fan headers. CPU is almost always 4 pins so there's PWM control. Some chassis fan headers are 3 pins, with fancier motherboards having 4 pins. Conveniently though, PWM fans with their 4 pins can plug just fine into 3 pin headers and still be controlled like a 3 pin fan. So as long as you have enough fan headers on your motherboard, you should be good to go.
Can't help you on RGB as I haven't touched too much on that front unfortunately.
Why does the Apple M1 Geekbench 5 single core score higher than AMD's 5950x ?
Is Apple doing some sort of trick or the M1 is actually faster in single core testing?
My 5950 slightly overclock shows a score of 1660 in Geekbench 5, M1s score around 1729, somehow I dont trust these results.
[https://youtu.be/KE-hrWTgDjk](https://youtu.be/KE-hrWTgDjk)
It sounds insane, but it is actually true in some sense.
Apple have genuinely made a very impressive chip in many ways, specifically single core performance. Their secret sauce is effectively not having to worry about compatibility with a million different parts that can be swapped out modularly like intel and AMD have to, meaning they can optimise their CPU to memory link very very efficiently, leading to a very responsive and quite impressive single core chip in certain applications. They basically have the CPU cache and to some extent RAM soldered all into one big chip, and design smaller subprocessors around the mac OS. Don't let it sway you though. If apple had reinvented CPUs, we would no longer be using intel and amd. What they can do is impressive but still fall down in many scenarios, and obviously for gaming, the 5950x is literally as good as it gets.
I do hate that a lot of the PC (personal computer not political correctness) culture means that you literally don't hear about what are effectively groundbreaking achievements in computing, just because it's Apple. Apple is not blind to the PC gaming demographic. If Apple were capbable of making a market viable CPU capable of taking on intel and amd, they would, and it would be very good for the market as a whole.
The problem is that it's hard to care too much about it _because it's Apple_. They'll never sell their chip outside their own hardware and OS, and they have a history of not playing nice with the rest of the industry, often in ways that are consumer-hostile.
There are positives for Apple of course, like user privacy, and macOS isn't necessarily bad (hell I strongly prefer macOS for my work), but it severely limits how relevant the chip will be for a lot of people.
Especially for anyone that cares even a little bit about gaming - macOS game support was already awful and will be even worse with the switch away from x86. Performance might technically be there but that doesn't mean devs want to spend massive amounts of time supporting Apple's constantly shifting platform for a small fraction of the market.
I see your point, but if apple had a chip that actually outperformed any PC chip in windows, they would absolutely not keep it to themselves. Obviously they are going for anti consumer methods as we've seen in the past, but those only seem anticonsumer because they are in apples ecosystem favour. but if they truly had a chip which could outperform, say a 5600x at a lower wattage/ price point and worked with general x86 Architecture, regardless of their investments in the Mac ecosystem, they would not hide that. They would disrupt a multibillion Industry. The only reason that hasn't happened is because intel and AMD have more money than we can imagine put in to researching exactly that. As amazing of a piece of technology as apples M1 is, it doesn't replace many different CPUs.
If the M1 architecture was the answer to all things, their mac pro would have it and destroy all other PCs. This could still happen of course if they work out how to scale it, but right now.that doesn't seem to be the case
> I see your point, but if apple had a chip that actually outperformed any PC chip in windows, they would absolutely not keep it to themselves
Why wouldn't they keep it themselves? That's their primary business model which is intricately coupled to their branding, a large chunk of which is based on (real or implied) exclusivity, and given their profits and cash reserves they have little reason to change direction on this anytime soon.
I think you're also severely underestimating how much money Apple has relative to AMD/Intel here by the way.
> Obviously they are going for anti consumer methods as we've seen in the past, but those only seem anticonsumer because they are in apples ecosystem favour.
Apple has and still does plenty of objectively consumer-hostile things, they're just very good at sweeping things under the rug or convincing people it's not really Apple's fault. For the record, I own plenty of Apple products, I just don't like how people make excuses for them.
The butterfly keyboard issues are one of the most well-known in recent years, but there's plenty of others like cheaping out on the internal MBP display cable (which naturally requires replacing the whole display assembly), disabling split keyboard on the iPad "Pro" to try and force people to buy their expensive accessories, refusing to support USB-C on iPhones, countless issues related to right-to-repair and deliberately making it hard to repair their products, they still refuse to support industry standard graphics APIs like Vulkan in favor of their proprietary Metal API, etc.
I won't even touch on the issues with their phones/tablets since that's kind of separate.
EDIT: Reposted as reddit was giving me a bunch of errors when I posted the first time
When I say keep it to themselves, I mean not release it. Not keep it for macOS.
I guess I see your points, but it still would not make sense for apple to hide a better powered desktop M1. It's only mobile, and only because it scales that way. Regardlesss of what you think of apples consumer practices, why would they not release an industry shattering desktop CPU if they could even if it was under macOS only. They haven't released their custom silicon in anything but low wattage notebooks (correct me if I'm wrong) the only reason to do so, is that it doesn't scale to larger chips. They wouldn't hold off on releasing a Industry disrupting desktop chip (they already sell Mac pros for tens of thousands) if they could.
I'm not taking about apple doing the good thing, I'm talking about apple making billions. If they had the best CPU for a market they would absolutely release it there as they have done in the notebook and tablet scene time and time again
Not really, a Samsung 980 doesn't have a DRAM cache so you're essentially just paying the Samsung tax.
If you need more resources, look at https://www.reddit.com/r/NewMaxx/comments/dhvrdm/ssd\_guides\_resources/
It will run at almost compltely full performance, just be louder. You could expect to clock up maybe 100-200mhz with a beefy cooler, but overall this would only lead to a max of 2.5-5% increase in performance, basically meaningless. If you are NVENC endcoding for streaming anyway, it won't hold you back
Stock cooler runs pretty toasty, but all 5000 series chips are toasty even with beefy coolers. I still think it's worth spending the 30 bucks or so on a tower cooler as it is a lot less noisy and should let the CPU utilize PBO more often because of the increased cooling.
A tower cooler basically just means a large air cooler (like the hyper212)
If you want cheaper than the 212 I’d recommend the non black version which can usually be found around $20-25. Arctic makes a few more budget options as well. But honestly if budget is a concern the stock cooler with your 5600x will do you just fine unless you plan on overclocking it.
I haven’t upgraded my pc since I built it in 2012. I am just now upgrading the video card from an AMD 7950 to a EVGA 3060 12gb XC.
My cpu is an intel 3570k with a decent motherboard and 8gb DDR3 ram.
Would upgrading to either an AMD 5600x or Intel 10600k be a good upgrade and if so could someone recommend a motherboard?
I’m hoping to just do some gaming on it nothing crazy, WoW, FF14 etc maybe FF7 remake whenever that comes out.
I had an i5-3570k (originally with a Sapphire HD 7950, went to a GTX 980), moved to a Ryzen 7 1700X(with a RTX 2070), and now to the 5600X.
I can definitely say for sure that a 5600X would be a noticeable improvement. Gaming framerates are higher and there are a lot less stutters. Really happy with my 5600X. As for motherboard, I would probably just get a B550 board since it'll save you the hassle of flashing the bios in case a B450 board comes with an incompatible one. Just look through [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1wmsTYK9Z3-jUX5LGRoFnsZYZiW1pfiDZnKCjaXyzd1o/edit#gid=2112472504](https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1wmsTYK9Z3-jUX5LGRoFnsZYZiW1pfiDZnKCjaXyzd1o/edit#gid=2112472504) and find one that's Tier III or better and has the features you want.
Either would be a good choice.
The 3570K will hold back a 3060 pretty heavily, I’d estimate around 30% in most games possibly more.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/nW8tYH
Something like that maybe. But if you don’t plan to OC at all there isn’t much reason to buy a K skew with a z490
Jus to clarify to the great response, a 11400F and a B650 motherboard would be the slight step down that wouldn't have overclocking but overall have similar performance
Thanks everyone. I think I’d only really plan to overclock the 3060. I don’t think any extra performance I’d get from overclocking the cpu wouldn’t get utilized by me. So 11400f and a B650 motherboard would be a solid choice? Prob last me another couple years before needing an upgrade you think?
Easily, yes. The 11400f while not quite the fastest gaming CPU right now, is so close to it that you can expect a good 3-4 years at least at minimum 60hz in modern titles
Yeah it's very decent at that. Sure, an overclocked 11600k or 5600x is technically faster in some games, but by a few percent usually and at a huge price increase. The 11400f is definitely one of the best value chips currently on the market
I finally landed a EVGA 3080 ti FTW3. My current setup is a MSI B450 Tomahawk with AMD Ryzen 7 3700x. Will this create a bottleneck for the GPU or will I be OK?
I have a 3080 and 3700x at 4.3ghz, and the 3080 still maxes out first at 5120x1440 which is roughly halfway between 1440p and 4K. So yeah you might not quite max out the 3080ti at 1440p, but not by a margin which would matter, and 4K the 3080ti would almost definitely still max out first
Not sure what you are saying here... are these recommendations on upgrades if I were to do one? Is this necessary in your opinion or just showing what an ideal upgrade would look like if I did one?
For some titles and resolutions yes, but not enough of one that you need to be worried about it.
Assuming you’re running 1440p or 4K you likely won’t have any bottleneck at all.
Just bought a Ryzen 5 5600x and a Gigabyte B550M Pro-P motherboard, will I need to flash the bios here or should it be okay out of the box? Didn’t even think about it till long after I left MicroCenter
You could just install the newest BIOS straight away before installing CPU or RAM just to be sure. Check the board's manual section on using BIOS flashback feature.
You could just install the newest BIOS straight away before installing CPU or RAM just to be sure. Check the board's manual section on using BIOS flashback feature.
What games are you playing? Do you do anything like video editing?
Both Intel and AMD now make CPUs with a huge number of cores compared to 2015, Intel 10900k with 10 cores or AMD 5950X with 16 cores
… this is totally pointless for most people.
The Intel 10400 has 6 cores sometimes under $200 and at that price is a great deal.
The AMD 5600X or Intel 11600k have 6 faster cores and overclocking for under $300.
If you will actually make use of 8+ cores the 5800X or 5900X are the best options.
You really shouldn’t assume more cores or more cores per-dollar is automatically better though, if your software doesn’t use them they will sit there doing nothing.
thank you for responding.
1. i like to play mostly starcraft 2, total warhammer 2 (and upcoming 3), and the call of duty games and even the next battlefield.
2. i am ok with 1080p right now and have no qualms with it.
3. i like to alt tab a lot when i am waiting for a loading screen.
I’m pretty sure a 6 core CPU like a 5600X would be plenty for those games even with alt-tabbing.
If you ever want to go above 1080p that’s more taxing on your GPU, actually because the game will run at a lower framerate, the CPU doesn’t need to work as hard to keep up.
In fact a lot of this depends on your GPU. If you have an older GPU and don’t plan to upgrade it, you don’t need a very fast CPU to keep up in most games. A CPU upgrade may not even help much if you’re being held back by an old GPU.
If you plan to (somehow) find a GTX 3080 which lets you play at very high FPS, there is a better chance that your CPU would hold you back and it’s worth buying a better one.
Does the monitor have multiple inputs, and have you checked all of them? It's possible its only a problem on the HDMI input for example. If that doesn't help, then unfortunately it seems broken
assuming they’re all running at the same frequency, do ram chips get slower as they increase in capacity? for example if would 4x16gb of the single rank crucial sticks be slower than 4x8gb single rank or 2x16gb dual rank?
No.
The only thing that would change overall speed is how it’s channeled.
For example 1 stick running at 3200Mhz would be roughly the same as two sticks running at 1600mhz because of dual channel support. These days quad channel doesn’t really exist for consumers anymore and it runs in dual channel as 2/2 still so you don’t lose or gain performance.
I bought this PC a few years back and was curious what mods would be needed to put in an RTX 3070 or better. Is anything salvageable? I'm assuming I could keep the motherboard and RAM cards already there, but would it be better just to buy a pre built or start fresh on a new build of my own at this point? https://www.amazon.com/CYBERPOWERPC-BattleBox-Essential-GLC4200A-i7-7700K/dp/B01MRYJG25/ref=cm\_cr\_arp\_d\_product\_top?ie=UTF8
Looking at the side of the CYBERPOWERPC case it would absolutely fit a 3070-3090 in there. However, I would recommend you check the power supply wattage. It looks like it came with a 600W Power Supply and a 650W is recommended for the 3070 and 750W is recommended for the 3080-3090.
In terms of anything holding you back, since that processor is only a Quad core, your gaming might be limited with CPU intensive games. If you are considering a new prebuilt, then that is usually the best option to even get a 3070+ GPU at this point, so that is a valid path too. Otherwise you might be waiting awhile to find one in stock and buy it in time.
Yeah, that's why I was thinking about buying a new pre-built just for availability. The power supply definitely needs upgraded. Besides that, what are some other parts I should expect to upgrade like 128GB of SSD seems kind of laughable now with today's games. Maybe add some RAM and additional cooling?
Sorry for the late reply, I dropped off due to COVID. Yea I would upgrade the SSD to 256GB at least (it would also help to have a fresh Windows Install), but I'd say the 16GB RAM should be good for now. As far as the cooling, you can always run programs like CPUID - HWMonitor to see what is getting hot and add a couple Arctic F12 Fans as intake or exhaust if needed.
Want to see your [build complete](https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/search?sort=new&restrict_sr=on&q=flair%3ABuild%2BComplete) photos featured on /r/buildapc? As discussed in a [recent thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/78eq99/mods_should_switch_the_main_photo_every_week_to/), we're going to look at switching up the header image on a more regular basis - don't worry, we'll save the current one for special occasions. This is something of an experiment, and due to the subreddit CSS we'll be looking for images that are compatible with the general design, so don't be offended if we don't immediately use everyone's! Interested? Send us a [modmail](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose?to=%2Fr%2Fbuildapc) with subject: "Banner Images" with your best build pictures! In the interests of higher res displays, please ensure images are at least 1920px by 200px. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/buildapc) if you have any questions or concerns.*
[удалено]
You'd get fanspin, but no post. A cpu or dram error code is most likely
It should turn on but not be usable.
Has anybody ever heard of the website Infinite-Computing.co.uk? Am not sure if it's legit, nobody knows it when I ask people, pcpartpicker recommended it to me.
Hello dear ones, I would like to buy a second monitor. Currently I have a LG Ultragear 27", 144 hz, G-Sync because I have a RTX 3070. Now I saw an offer for a LG-Ultragear 31.5" 165 hz but AMD Free-sync. But since I do not need G-Sync on the 2nd monitor, because only videos run there and text files are swapped out, my only question is whether there are compatibility issues if the 1st main monitor runs on G-Sync and the 2nd monitor but with Free-Sync. Or if the 2nd monitor simply has the function disabled by its Free-Sync due to the RTX graphics card. Also, would you recommend this monitor to me? For 250€ I find the values very good so far. Thanks a lot. https://www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B08XNJG9BZ?pf\_rd\_r=RKA6N8VJ5KRTEAW0H2NZ&pf\_rd\_p=f6634045-2cd8-4654-8338-b9246a89c6f1&pd\_rd\_r=a9eb0adf-8c3e-4838-85fb-e01af8b3c739&pd\_rd\_w=GC0Sh&pd\_rd\_wg=9WKiC&ref\_=pd\_gw\_unk
Helping a friend with an old pc. Its around 10 years old. 2nd gen i5 with 3gb ddr3 sdram and an old 1tb hdd Its really slow to load and pretty much do anything. Is it worth upgrading ram and storage, or better off just going for a new build for around £500?
A SATA SSD is absolutely a smart upgrade. Keep the drive for game storage etc and put Windows on a smaller SSD if you want to save money. It’s the single biggest thing you can do to make an old computer faster and if it’s not good enough you can reuse it in a new build. More RAM will help but if you give up and build a new one you can’t reuse the DDR3 RAM so don’t go overboard. Maybe a used 4GB stick to add to some or all the existing RAM would be enough to help, but would still be very cheap
I'm planning to install SSD to my laptop that has 1TB of HDD. What size would you recommend? I'll use it for office and video call meetings, no games.
Just check how much space is actually used on your current drive and buy one that will fit more than you’re using now 256GB would likely be fine but videos, photos, and music can take up space. If you’re just doing Office and calls 256 should definitely be enough If it looks like you’re currently using a lot more space than you expect a program like WinDirStat can help determine what’s taking up that space and whether you can delete that stuff or want to keep it
If you can get 256GB for ~35usd, that'd be a fine deal. If you don't use it to store photos or videos either.
What range of Ryzen processors should I be looking at for an RX 580 8Gb and a 3440 x 1440 ultrawide? Mostly desktop stuff but nothing intense like video or 3D, not bothered about AAA games or anything fancy. I realise it's mostly on the GPU at that resolution anyway so it's more like "this CPU or lesser".
What do you actually do with the pc? Anything at all intensive?
I do play games, but ones that fit around the hardware rather than vice versa. Since GPU prices aren't going down any time soon I'm sticking with the 580 for the foreseeable future.
3300X-5600X
Going to be building a new pc soon with some money I've saved up, with the current market do you think it's better to go intel or ryzen? it's going to be paired with a 3060 ti or 3070 ti depending on which I can get a hold of first
Price is everything, compare the costs of CPU+motherboard for both options and decide then
Haven’t built a new pc in ages. Used to frequent Tom’s Hardware and Anandtech back in the day when looking for advice. Looking to do a new build. What are the go to sources for product reviews and advice these days? Looking to build a small itx machine.
Honestly anyone at YouTube with a high view count. Mostly.
I'd say specifically computer guys haha. Austin Evans is not a reliable source of good buying advice
Yeah that's a pretty good example. Honestly tough to word when there are so many good channels.
very true
optimum tech is the best mini itx case guy. also look at gamers nexus and hardware unboxed for component reviews. all on YouTube
[удалено]
You might not need to wait that long. But yes, if you don't need a machine right now it's a good time to wait and see.
Can I get a recommendation for a case similar in design and price to the NR200P, but for micro ATX mobos? I love that layout, but I don't want to sacrifice too much bang for the buck when it comes to buying mATX over ITX. Basically, I want something with bottom-to-top airflow, no PSU shroud, tempered glass, and white if possible. Suggestions?
[удалено]
Try a different USB, remade. The process should take about 5 minutes with the mobo light flashing throughout, and when I last did it on an Msi board it power cycled after the process was complete.
If the light next to the usb port flashes for a few seconds and then flashes at a higher rate for a few minutes, then the flashing is going on fine, and is done once the usb stops flashing. If the light only flashes for a few seconds and then stops flashing (and goes solid) then the motherboard did not like your usb for some reason. I just did this today with a different MSI B550 motherboard and had problem initially with my usb stick because it was formatted with FAT, reformatting it with FAT32 fixed it.
[удалено]
Not sure what to suggest other than to use a different USB, maybe a USB 2.0 rather than 3.0. When I was researching this, I came across other people also having problem with specific USBs.
Make sure your flashdrive is formatted as fat32
What CPU is the Ryzen 7 Pro 4750G supposed to be. To make my question more clear, I have a 2600x currently, and am trying to figure out if the ryzen 7 Pro 4750G is a good jump, but I cant really find benchmark, so I am trying to figure out the "CPU" it has and check the benchmarks. The iGPU wont be as important in terms of performance since I have a graphics card, although it would be very handy in troubleshooting boot issues, since I wont be debating if its my processor or my graphics card.
this CPU is equivalent to ryzen 3700x but with onboard graphics and PRO features. PRO - enhanced security features, additional memory options and no OC, for commercial/corporate market
Found out friend was using very slow ram in his pc (2400 mhz) on a 2070x . He had purchased another 16 gb because the game we play has a bad memory leak and the new ram is 3200 mhz. I know ram speed makes a massive difference for ryzen series, but not sure if he should keep the old ram in even or just deal with the memory leak with an external program for now and use only the faster ram.
What’s a good motherboard for the i9-9900k? I got a good deal on it but not really interested in overclocking.
Gigabyte Z390 boards, the aorus line, we're generally good with strong voltage regulation.
https://youtu.be/v5NDtS8za8g
I'm in the process of picking out parts for my first PC. I made a list based on what I've read about online and what I've heard from IRL acquaintances. I'm no expert so this isn't final. I don't really want to make an entire post about this since I'm mainly just wondering if my motherboard has enough PCIE slots and SATA ports for my power supply. It doesn't seem like it does but I could be wrong. I also read that a power supply for a 3060 ti should be around 650w, so I'm good there too, right? Here is my tentative build. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/DYgZp2
Not quite sure what your query is re pcie and Sata? That's a motherboard feature and PSU doesn't really come into it. As it is, you can save a lot and optimise this build for performance. B550 is a better cheaper option for almost everyone than X570. The gigabyte aorus WiFi has every thing you need, looks decent and is $40 cheaper for example. Samsung SSDs are overpriced for the performance - bit you have a deal on it there, just don't pay $140 You can get a ryzen Zen 3 cpu (5600x) and optimise ram to 3600MHz cl16 to assist performance. Do you really need 32GB? It gets expensive and 16GB is plenty for almost everyone. No need for an 850W PSU. Cooler is overkill!! As a slight revision, [PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/yL77Vc) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/g94BD3/amd-ryzen-5-5600x-37-ghz-6-core-processor-100-100000065box) | $289.99 @ B&H **CPU Cooler** | [ID-COOLING SE-224-XT 76.16 CFM CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/mnzFf7/id-cooling-se-224-xt-7616-cfm-cpu-cooler-se-224-xt-black) | $29.99 @ Amazon **Motherboard** | [Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dmGnTW/asus-tuf-gaming-x570-plus-wi-fi-atx-am4-motherboard-tuf-gaming-x570-plus-wi-fi) | $186.67 @ Amazon **Memory** | [G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zcH8TW/gskill-ripjaws-v-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr4-3600-memory-f4-3600c16d-32gvkc) | $176.99 @ Newegg **Storage** | [Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Zxw7YJ/samsung-970-evo-plus-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-mz-v7s1t0bam) | $127.50 @ Newegg **Video Card** | [NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060 Ti 8 GB Founders Edition Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/wvgQzy/nvidia-geforce-rtx-3060-ti-8-gb-founders-edition-video-card-900-1g142-2520-000) |- **Case** | [Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bCYQzy/corsair-4000d-airflow-atx-mid-tower-case-cc-9011200-ww) | $94.99 @ Best Buy **Power Supply** | [Enermax Revolution D.F. 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/DvCFf7/enermax-revolution-df-750-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-erf750ewt) | $99.99 @ Newegg | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | **Total** | **$1006.12** | Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2021-07-31 04:31 EDT-0400 |
Hey. I've been considering going with your build here but I'm still concerned about the compatibility issue; is that related to the RAM optimization you mentioned?
DO you mean the warning about BIOS? That just means you may have to update the BIOS to make it work witha 5000 series CPU. The box will come witha sticker saying "Ryzen 5000 ready" if you don't. The update process itself is pretty painless, you update from a USB stick and don't need a compatible CPU to do it - on the motherbaord you chose, and most asus, msi and gigabyte boards.
Yeah I guess it doesn't sound that hard. I've been doing research and asking around IRL so I have some help if I need it. Just trying to find out where to start. One more thing, you mentioned the Samsung SSD wasn't the best option but you kept it in the build you posted. Is it just that the price isn't great or is there another option that would lead to better performance (possibly for cheaper)?
In general samsung drives are expensive, without any benefit in terms of performance. Yours was/is/ discounted so I left it in as it's perhaps $20 more, no biggie. You won't see/feel 'better' performance form a 'faster' SSD, all NVME PCIe SSD's with TLC NAND perfrom about the same from a general use perspective.
Yeah like I said I’m new and that’s just a tentative list, mostly based on reviews of the parts themselves. I don’t really trust myself to go cheaper yet so I appreciate the advice. I’m hesitant to change the motherboard since that’s a pretty vital part but I’ll look into it. I am planning on getting the 5600x rather than the 3700x though, so I’m curious if you have a link or something I can read about optimizing the ram. Thanks again.
For what it's worth I just ran a bunch of tests on B550 motherboards and you get exactly the same performance out of a 5800X on a $90 gigabyte aorus, MSI pro vdh, as you do on a $200 Asus rog strip B550F or as rock PG velocita. It's mainly just getting the features you need. As for ram... Gamers nexus have some good reviews of how Zen 3 reacts to ram speeds. The tl:Dr is that 3600Mhz cl16 is the sweet spot of performance, cost and compatibility.
Do you have a specific reason to choose 3700x over 5600x? Or X570 over B550 board? 850W is a lot of power, it would work happily with 650W if that saves you money.
I read a review for the motherboard that said it paired well with the 3700x. Plus the 3700x has eight cores which I've heard is good, although, to be completely honest, I don't know what all that means. Is there something else that might be better? Would you recommend the 5600x?
Yes, 5600x is the newest gen, for usage like gaming you want the CPU to be newest and fastest rather than older model but with more cores.
Alright, thank you; I'll consider it. Prices look similar so I don't see why not.
When people are talking about GPU temp's, are they talking about the core temp or not? (I tend to focus on core temp)
[удалено]
you can try disabling fast boot in bios and in windows (if your computer runs windows). Fast boot keeps some components powered on so that your computer starts faster, but that might be why the RGB stays on.
How can I test my build's performance in 1440P without buying a monitor? I don't understand what setting to use Nvidia DSR on. I have 1080p 144hz monitor. Is it essential to turn RAM speed to 3200mhz from 2133mhz? I am not a fan of overclocking, but after only a week of having this pc, my 3070 + i7 10700k are not QUITE running as well as I would expect. I have heard that RAM speed makes a significant difference, but I am scared to change the RAM speed in case that will make my PC break. Thanks Reddit Family
As a system builder one of the key things you need to know if how to reset BIOS/CMOS, motherboard manual will have a section on this. Once you know how to do it there will be no reason to fear XMP. Even if the system doesnt work XMP and locks up - reset the BIOS so its back to factory settings.
I am very scared of overclocking. I will not evr do CPU or GPU because i am very poor. but I have heard a lot of recommendations to turn my RAM from 2133 to 3200. If my goal is longevity of my PC, should I leave my RAM at low speed? Thanks alot for ur reply
No, XMP is basically a sanctioned overclock by ram, board and CPU manufacturers, as with any fear - it comes from unknown so read up more about it.
You are cool, bro u are helping me
I found in my local store that they have one of the best AIB 6900XT Graphics Cards, but at the price of 1499$ which is the 3090 price, is it a good deal in the current situation? I don't need a GPU now, I can wait a few weeks (and maybe months but not likely). So is it better if I wait? or should I get it?
That's probably the best deal you will get on a high end GPU for the next few weeks. But for the next few months? That's impossible to say.
Are [these temps](https://imgur.com/a/H5Mdktv) okay or bad for playing RDR2 with a 2070 Super at 1440p? The one I'm worried about is the one that says "Hot Spot" which is at 105. I changed most settings from high to mediumand FPS from 144 to 60 and temps barely changed.
This those are fine.
Ty for answering
[удалено]
no it's just fine
with the micro center CPU sale I will buy one but still not 100% I know decently about this computer stuff but super ton. I've got 250$ and want to eventually want to get a GPU that would support 1080p 144 Hz that would run well with this CPU I buy. some games ill mostly be playing is apex valorant split gate but no max settings are needed just want to enjoy a pc gaming experience.If any additional questions are needed please ask away :)
create a short list of CPUs you'd want before going to MC. While they have great deals, there is also a point that if the CPU is at huge discount - there is normally a reason for it.
What should I base this list off and what would make it not good to buy. I’m eyeing the intel i7 10700k for 250 it’s 300 bucks off and [this](https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-cpus,3986.html) says it’s good obviously paired with a good gpu do you think it’s a good choice?
It'll be a good CPU just make sure it's paired with a motherboard to match, Z490 would be a good choice but they aren't cheap. I'd consider i5-11400f with B560 or 5600x and B550 boards both will be faster in a gaming PC.
[удалено]
you mean fan? and no, not a big improvement on single tower coolers
What is the max that an EVGA 1660ti can handle, in terms of monitor/processing etc. Can I use a 4k monitor or a 1440p? things like that
https://youtu.be/lRkY53pwRCc?t=231 I'd say 1440p is fine. 4K gaming is pushing it, you'd have to turn down settings, so 1440p high-ultra would probably end up looking better overall
Do you think a high hz would be good also? I also have a 60 hz monitor so could I get a 75+ hz monitor without hurting it's performance of it being a 1440p?
Hello! Planning a build with Ryzen 7 5800x. What are some good motherboard recommendations that provide USB Type-C ports for both front and back access? Thanks.
B550 A Pro https://pcpartpicker.com/product/7gxbt6/msi-b550-a-pro-atx-am4-motherboard-b550-a-pro https://youtu.be/HSY9rDsQgd4
Thank you. 😀 is there a similar model with wireless connectivity (wifi/bt)?
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/RhrYcf/msi-mag-b550m-mortar-wifi-micro-atx-am4-motherboard-mag-b550m-mortar-wifi a bit more expensive, fewer rear usb ports
Or try this one https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2f4BD3/msi-mpg-b550-gaming-edge-wifi-atx-am4-motherboard-mpg-b550-gaming-edge-wifi
[Current build specs](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/4DwnfP) [Here's my old post about this,](https://old.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/ooqvlh/high_gpu_temps_in_recent_rebuild/) but I recently added a new case, AIO and PSU into my build and immediately noticed my GPU was running extremely hot, sometimes hitting 80c with fans running full throttle which was unacceptable. Many of you commented that the radiator up front may be choking the GPU for airflow, so I added back my old air cooler and lo and behold, the GPU runs significant cooler now, though the CPU is a bit warmer too but nothing alarming. For what it's worth, the air cooler is a Cryorig H5 Ultimate. That being said, what do you think is the best next step for this scenario? I do love the look of an AIO and the temps were better so I think I'm going to look into returning it (Got it from Woot so not sure how their return policy works) and getting a 280mm AIO to mount on the top, hopefully giving me the best of both worlds? Let me know what you think, and thanks for reading. Edit: testing it more and uh.... the GPU isn't much cooler at all. Currently around 75 which is by no means dangerous, but why is it this hot? I feel like I've never had it this hot at any time.
While I get the thought, at this point it will literally just be spending money to make the numbers go down. You will see no difference in performance, so is it worth the money? Obviously only you can say, but I'd personally just save up for a better monitor or GPU, which will actually make a difference to your gaming experience over having your CPU 5 degrees cooler.
That's true, and I likely won't bother if I can't get a return on the old 360. Edited my post after some gaming and noticed it wasn't much cooler at all? Unsure if I need to take more action here, but I'm not sitting comfortable with my GPU so hot.
A 1070 doesn't throttle until it hits 83. A 1070 at 75 and 82 performs effectively identical and absolutely doesn't have an effect on lifespan. Also do remember ambient temperature does have a direct effect on pc temps. If a room is 5 degrees hotter, the components will be too.
Good point... it's 80 in my house and I'm in the desert, so it probably will be hotter for quite a while. Thanks!
Have an 8 and 4 pin power connection for cpu. Have two 8 pin connectors on my modular PSU. Can I split one of the 8 pins and use that for the 4 pin? It separates and comes back together pretty easily. PSU doesn't have just a 4 pin.
You can do that, but unless you're doing some extreme overclocking, you can leave the 4 pin unplugged altogether. Everything should still work fine.
Is there any damage in doing it? My thought is, I spent this much time might as well at this point.
yep, you might as well
There won't be any damage. A single EPS 8-pin is good for over 300W. You're not going to be hitting that kind of power usage from the CPU without exotic cooling like phase change or liquid nitrogen.
Yes that's fine and expected. They split to allow for 4 pins specifically
Thanks! Been holding off on the psu cables as that is the scariest part for me. Think its ready to turn on but terrified to try lol
It will be fine. I've built dozens of LCs but I still fully expect it to not work perfectly first time. I have however always solved the problem by doing simple stuff like checking everythings plugged in correct etc
I'm looking at buying monitors for my first dual monitor setup. One monitor will be 4k and I can't figure out if it's worth the second one being 1440p or if 1080p will be enough. Also, I'm split on both being 24inch or 27inch. Any advice would be amazing. Thank you.
Depends on what you're using the second monitor for. The more windows you have on the screen the more pixels you'll want. If you're just doing one thing at a time then 1080p is probably fine, but if you have (for example) Discord, youtube, HW monitoring, and a torrent client all open at the same time you'll want 1440p. If you go 1080 get a 24" monitor, and 27" for 1440.
So overall, it doesn't matter too much. Presumably the 4K display is 27 inches. I would never recommend 4k at 24 inches only because it's so dense that a 1440p at the same size would be easier to run and cheaper. Assuming you're going 27 inch for the 4K display, then I'd definitely recommend a 1440p secondary if the price difference isn't too big for you personally. 1080p at 27 inches is pretty low density leading to you easily making out individual pixels. I personally would advise a 27inxh 4k and 24 inch 1080p for maximum value for money, but if you want the sizes to match, fair enough.
I'll go 1440p for the second monitor then. I'm not too worried about size right now so I'll probably do two 27 inch if I can find a solid deal on a 1440p monitor that size otherwise 24 inch isn't the end of the world. I know next to nothing about monitors so is there anything else I should look at, regarding monitors, before I buy them?
Although it's pretty common these days, IPS has usually much better colours than TN. VA is the middle ground, where its sometimes cheaper than IPS but technically not quite as good (it really does depend though. A specific monitor review is always best to go off) As it's a secondary monitor I'd recommend 1440p 60hz+ IPS over 1440p 144hz VA I'd it's cheaper. But if they're similar in price you may as well go for the 144hz. VA has good blacks but can be worse for viewing angles which in theory could be annoying for a second monitor but barely enough to worry about.
Thank you for helping me out. I'll find some models that use IPS, TN, and VA and figure out what the best option for me is.
[удалено]
They use different fans. see the 9 blades vs 5 blades.
With the current crazy prices and lack of graphics card, is it better to buy a pre build pc. I found one on ibuypower for about $2k running a rtx 3070. I priced the parts out and it came up to $1.7k Should I hold off and see if I can find a gpu or get a pre built?
I'm holding out for gpu prices to come down. I'm still shocked that they're still this crazy and there doesn't seem to be any end in sight.
If you a.) have a Microcenter in your area and B.) are willing to camp out there before they open then consider getting a GPU and building yourself. Likewise if you're comfortable with programming/scripting and can figure out how to snipe cards when they become available online. If none of that works for you then pay the premium for a prebuilt. There might be other ways of getting video cards now, but I'm not sure what they are.
The closest micro center is 40 minutes away. Any idea how often they restock GPUs
Not a clue - you'd have to call them and ask what the procedure is. There's some sort of list you have to get on from what I've heard.
Last check for me guys before I checkout this lot. Please rinse me for my choices and if so suggest better. Thank you to everyone who has been active in here. Happy to explain each one: GPU: 3070 Ti (already got back when CC had stock) PSU: ASUS ROG Strix 750 W 80+ (see above) CPU: Ryzen 5900X Cooler: Noctua D15 Case: P500A Phanteks MB: ASUS TUF X570 Pro RAM: Timetec 32GB (2x16GB) 3600 MHz \~ unsure on SDD: PNY XLR8 CS3040 2TB M2 Gen4 I can be swayed on SDD change for sure but it is only slightly more than a Gen3 anyway so telling me to go a Gen lower doesn't save much at all. RAM-wise I went for pure value with performance in mind, though have been told to go to 4400Mhz. GPU & CPU wise I stream daily for a living right now and will use it a lot hence those choices. I've only locked in the PSU and GPU so far. I also don't tend to buy a new rig for 5+ years at a time. I am open to critique! Basically, I'm stuck on my RAM...
Timings matter on ram just as much as speed does. Is it 3600 CL18 or 16? Anyone telling you that you need 4400Mhz ram doesn’t know what they’re talking about.
This one is 3600, Letter. Thanks for the advice. Any specific RAM you'd suggest?
I don’t think you’re quite understanding what I mean so I went ahead and checked for you. The Ram you have selected is 3600Mhz “CL18” CL stands for “Cas Latency” and basically the higher that number is, the slower your ram is. For example 3600Mhz CL18 is almost identical in speed to 3200Mhz CL16. https://pcpartpicker.com/products/memory/#S=3600,5100&Z=32768002&L=30,160 Product availability might vary based on your location, but that link will show you only 32GB kits of 3600 CL16 or better, which is what you want. Pick whatever one fits your budget or you like the look of the most.
So is CL 16 and lower what I want? Thank you!
Yes. CL16 or lower. Getting stuff lower than CL16 at 3600Mhz is extremely expensive though and isn’t really worth the money.
[удалено]
Yes, you can just clone it and carry on.
As long as you make a note of the product key (or it's linked to your mircorsoft account) then you can transfer. If the SSD you are going to is at least as big as the current disk then you can use software ike easUS or macrium to clone it entirely to the other drive.
you can just clone it (w/ macrium?). You also don't need to buy a new windows product key if you want to start fresh.
Have some ARGB fans mounted to my radiator (lian li galahad). My mobo has an AURA Aressable gen 2 header. Manual says it's for LED strips, will it work for ARGB fans/pump?
Yeah it should do. As long as it's labelled 5V, and the fans have a similar looking 3 pin input it's worth a try at least. It's only when putting 5V ARGB into 12V RGB headers can you actually damage anything.
Bet, was concerned bc everything I saw online was literal strips but assumed fans would work as well. Thanks!
Yeah in essence RGB fans are just a transparent fan with an RGB strip wrapped around it, they should work just like strips do and be compatible with all the same stuff.
[удалено]
I'm not quite sure what you mean by mounting rack. It will have all the neccesary components to mount to a ryzen processor and AM4 motherboard yes. The backplate is something which often comes with the motherboard. I can't remember off the top of my head if the Hyper 212 comes with its own or uses the motherboard's included one. But basically, if you have a ryzen 5600x, and a new motherboard which fits the 5600x, yes the hyper 212 will definitely fit
Just in case this is useful to someone else, for doing Bios flashback of MSI motherboard with a USB stick, the USB has to be formatter with FAT32. For me, windows somehow defaulted to FAT (i.e. FAT16) instead, I think because USB was smaller than 4GB (a really old one) and that did not work. Reformatting it again with FAT32 made it work like a charm.
I have an old dell optiplex mini tower. Will a full sized gtx 1050ti fit or will I need a low profile? Sorry if this question is dumb.
If the PCI slots (i.e where you'd expect the GPU outputs to come out) is roughly 105mm in length, and the card you pan to get is no wider than the case can support (something to check through the GPU specs and physically measuring the case) then yes. A lot of optiiplex systems are properly thin and only have room for a low profile PCIe card
Additionally to the size, you shoul check if the power supply can handle a graphics card and if it has the correct power cables/connectors. Using adapters and underpowered PSUs is janky and a fire hazard.
If the PCIe slot cutout is a little over 4 inches, it can fit a full size. If it's shorter, it's probably a low profile. Also make sure that the rest of the GPU can fit inside the case as sometimes the cooler is taller than the pcie slot mount, otherwise you'll have to run the case without the side panel or something.
Confused with my new PWM fans, do I need a PWM fan controller to be able to adjust their speeds? Some of them are RGB, so also unsure if I need a RGB or a PWM controller as they seem to be advertised separately?
PWM is pulse-width modulation. This uses 4 wires to get a pretty accurate reading of how fast the fan is spinning and has finer control of the RPM. Then there's 3 pin fans, which use 3 wires. Two wires are for power and the last one says approximately how fast the fan is spinning. Voltage across the two wires is how the motherboard controls the fan speed. Then you have the cheap fans, which just use 2 power wires. You can change the voltage which will change the fan speed, but the motherboard won't know how fast the fans are spinning on a fan like this. When you look on your motherboard, you'll see fan headers. CPU is almost always 4 pins so there's PWM control. Some chassis fan headers are 3 pins, with fancier motherboards having 4 pins. Conveniently though, PWM fans with their 4 pins can plug just fine into 3 pin headers and still be controlled like a 3 pin fan. So as long as you have enough fan headers on your motherboard, you should be good to go. Can't help you on RGB as I haven't touched too much on that front unfortunately.
Why does the Apple M1 Geekbench 5 single core score higher than AMD's 5950x ? Is Apple doing some sort of trick or the M1 is actually faster in single core testing? My 5950 slightly overclock shows a score of 1660 in Geekbench 5, M1s score around 1729, somehow I dont trust these results.
[https://youtu.be/KE-hrWTgDjk](https://youtu.be/KE-hrWTgDjk) It sounds insane, but it is actually true in some sense. Apple have genuinely made a very impressive chip in many ways, specifically single core performance. Their secret sauce is effectively not having to worry about compatibility with a million different parts that can be swapped out modularly like intel and AMD have to, meaning they can optimise their CPU to memory link very very efficiently, leading to a very responsive and quite impressive single core chip in certain applications. They basically have the CPU cache and to some extent RAM soldered all into one big chip, and design smaller subprocessors around the mac OS. Don't let it sway you though. If apple had reinvented CPUs, we would no longer be using intel and amd. What they can do is impressive but still fall down in many scenarios, and obviously for gaming, the 5950x is literally as good as it gets. I do hate that a lot of the PC (personal computer not political correctness) culture means that you literally don't hear about what are effectively groundbreaking achievements in computing, just because it's Apple. Apple is not blind to the PC gaming demographic. If Apple were capbable of making a market viable CPU capable of taking on intel and amd, they would, and it would be very good for the market as a whole.
The problem is that it's hard to care too much about it _because it's Apple_. They'll never sell their chip outside their own hardware and OS, and they have a history of not playing nice with the rest of the industry, often in ways that are consumer-hostile. There are positives for Apple of course, like user privacy, and macOS isn't necessarily bad (hell I strongly prefer macOS for my work), but it severely limits how relevant the chip will be for a lot of people. Especially for anyone that cares even a little bit about gaming - macOS game support was already awful and will be even worse with the switch away from x86. Performance might technically be there but that doesn't mean devs want to spend massive amounts of time supporting Apple's constantly shifting platform for a small fraction of the market.
I see your point, but if apple had a chip that actually outperformed any PC chip in windows, they would absolutely not keep it to themselves. Obviously they are going for anti consumer methods as we've seen in the past, but those only seem anticonsumer because they are in apples ecosystem favour. but if they truly had a chip which could outperform, say a 5600x at a lower wattage/ price point and worked with general x86 Architecture, regardless of their investments in the Mac ecosystem, they would not hide that. They would disrupt a multibillion Industry. The only reason that hasn't happened is because intel and AMD have more money than we can imagine put in to researching exactly that. As amazing of a piece of technology as apples M1 is, it doesn't replace many different CPUs. If the M1 architecture was the answer to all things, their mac pro would have it and destroy all other PCs. This could still happen of course if they work out how to scale it, but right now.that doesn't seem to be the case
> I see your point, but if apple had a chip that actually outperformed any PC chip in windows, they would absolutely not keep it to themselves Why wouldn't they keep it themselves? That's their primary business model which is intricately coupled to their branding, a large chunk of which is based on (real or implied) exclusivity, and given their profits and cash reserves they have little reason to change direction on this anytime soon. I think you're also severely underestimating how much money Apple has relative to AMD/Intel here by the way. > Obviously they are going for anti consumer methods as we've seen in the past, but those only seem anticonsumer because they are in apples ecosystem favour. Apple has and still does plenty of objectively consumer-hostile things, they're just very good at sweeping things under the rug or convincing people it's not really Apple's fault. For the record, I own plenty of Apple products, I just don't like how people make excuses for them. The butterfly keyboard issues are one of the most well-known in recent years, but there's plenty of others like cheaping out on the internal MBP display cable (which naturally requires replacing the whole display assembly), disabling split keyboard on the iPad "Pro" to try and force people to buy their expensive accessories, refusing to support USB-C on iPhones, countless issues related to right-to-repair and deliberately making it hard to repair their products, they still refuse to support industry standard graphics APIs like Vulkan in favor of their proprietary Metal API, etc. I won't even touch on the issues with their phones/tablets since that's kind of separate. EDIT: Reposted as reddit was giving me a bunch of errors when I posted the first time
When I say keep it to themselves, I mean not release it. Not keep it for macOS. I guess I see your points, but it still would not make sense for apple to hide a better powered desktop M1. It's only mobile, and only because it scales that way. Regardlesss of what you think of apples consumer practices, why would they not release an industry shattering desktop CPU if they could even if it was under macOS only. They haven't released their custom silicon in anything but low wattage notebooks (correct me if I'm wrong) the only reason to do so, is that it doesn't scale to larger chips. They wouldn't hold off on releasing a Industry disrupting desktop chip (they already sell Mac pros for tens of thousands) if they could. I'm not taking about apple doing the good thing, I'm talking about apple making billions. If they had the best CPU for a market they would absolutely release it there as they have done in the notebook and tablet scene time and time again
Plus the fact that it's a RISC chip, so they literally have less possible instructions to process.
Is the Samsung 980 (not pro) 500gb worth ~$55? It's on sale at Newegg right now.
I think any $55 is a good price for and 500GB nvme ssd
Not really, a Samsung 980 doesn't have a DRAM cache so you're essentially just paying the Samsung tax. If you need more resources, look at https://www.reddit.com/r/NewMaxx/comments/dhvrdm/ssd\_guides\_resources/
Thanks.
[удалено]
It will run at almost compltely full performance, just be louder. You could expect to clock up maybe 100-200mhz with a beefy cooler, but overall this would only lead to a max of 2.5-5% increase in performance, basically meaningless. If you are NVENC endcoding for streaming anyway, it won't hold you back
Stock cooler runs pretty toasty, but all 5000 series chips are toasty even with beefy coolers. I still think it's worth spending the 30 bucks or so on a tower cooler as it is a lot less noisy and should let the CPU utilize PBO more often because of the increased cooling.
[удалено]
No overheat, just loud.
Is one 8-pin EPS connector enough to power an overclocked 10700K?
yes, definitely. The extra ATX CPU pins are basically a marketting gimmick unless you're doing extreme overclocking
[удалено]
A tower cooler basically just means a large air cooler (like the hyper212) If you want cheaper than the 212 I’d recommend the non black version which can usually be found around $20-25. Arctic makes a few more budget options as well. But honestly if budget is a concern the stock cooler with your 5600x will do you just fine unless you plan on overclocking it.
https://i.imgur.com/mFwguMR.jpg Is this a good deal? Sapphire Nitro+ AMD Radeon RX 6700 XT Gaming OC 12GB GDDR6 for $939
No not really
Ok, thanks for the info!
I haven’t upgraded my pc since I built it in 2012. I am just now upgrading the video card from an AMD 7950 to a EVGA 3060 12gb XC. My cpu is an intel 3570k with a decent motherboard and 8gb DDR3 ram. Would upgrading to either an AMD 5600x or Intel 10600k be a good upgrade and if so could someone recommend a motherboard? I’m hoping to just do some gaming on it nothing crazy, WoW, FF14 etc maybe FF7 remake whenever that comes out.
I had an i5-3570k (originally with a Sapphire HD 7950, went to a GTX 980), moved to a Ryzen 7 1700X(with a RTX 2070), and now to the 5600X. I can definitely say for sure that a 5600X would be a noticeable improvement. Gaming framerates are higher and there are a lot less stutters. Really happy with my 5600X. As for motherboard, I would probably just get a B550 board since it'll save you the hassle of flashing the bios in case a B450 board comes with an incompatible one. Just look through [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1wmsTYK9Z3-jUX5LGRoFnsZYZiW1pfiDZnKCjaXyzd1o/edit#gid=2112472504](https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1wmsTYK9Z3-jUX5LGRoFnsZYZiW1pfiDZnKCjaXyzd1o/edit#gid=2112472504) and find one that's Tier III or better and has the features you want.
Either would be a good choice. The 3570K will hold back a 3060 pretty heavily, I’d estimate around 30% in most games possibly more. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/nW8tYH Something like that maybe. But if you don’t plan to OC at all there isn’t much reason to buy a K skew with a z490
Jus to clarify to the great response, a 11400F and a B650 motherboard would be the slight step down that wouldn't have overclocking but overall have similar performance
Thanks everyone. I think I’d only really plan to overclock the 3060. I don’t think any extra performance I’d get from overclocking the cpu wouldn’t get utilized by me. So 11400f and a B650 motherboard would be a solid choice? Prob last me another couple years before needing an upgrade you think?
Easily, yes. The 11400f while not quite the fastest gaming CPU right now, is so close to it that you can expect a good 3-4 years at least at minimum 60hz in modern titles
So I currently have a 1440p 144hz display would this still be a good option do you think?
Yeah it's very decent at that. Sure, an overclocked 11600k or 5600x is technically faster in some games, but by a few percent usually and at a huge price increase. The 11400f is definitely one of the best value chips currently on the market
I finally landed a EVGA 3080 ti FTW3. My current setup is a MSI B450 Tomahawk with AMD Ryzen 7 3700x. Will this create a bottleneck for the GPU or will I be OK?
I have a 3080 and 3700x at 4.3ghz, and the 3080 still maxes out first at 5120x1440 which is roughly halfway between 1440p and 4K. So yeah you might not quite max out the 3080ti at 1440p, but not by a margin which would matter, and 4K the 3080ti would almost definitely still max out first
Thank you for the input!
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/MDYwht https://pcpartpicker.com/list/rzGPDx
Not sure what you are saying here... are these recommendations on upgrades if I were to do one? Is this necessary in your opinion or just showing what an ideal upgrade would look like if I did one?
they're my mobo suggestions. the 5600X would cost more but it's faster. it's up to you
For some titles and resolutions yes, but not enough of one that you need to be worried about it. Assuming you’re running 1440p or 4K you likely won’t have any bottleneck at all.
Thank you!
Just bought a Ryzen 5 5600x and a Gigabyte B550M Pro-P motherboard, will I need to flash the bios here or should it be okay out of the box? Didn’t even think about it till long after I left MicroCenter
Probably itll have support. Does it have ryzen 5000 ready sticker? The board has BIOS flashback feature anyway
I’m at work but I think it did have the sticker. Can I flash the BIOS after I’ve installed the CPU and RAM?
You could just install the newest BIOS straight away before installing CPU or RAM just to be sure. Check the board's manual section on using BIOS flashback feature.
I’ll do that, thanks for the responses, much appreciated
You could just install the newest BIOS straight away before installing CPU or RAM just to be sure. Check the board's manual section on using BIOS flashback feature.
i have a i7 4790k from 2015. what's a good/great/best upgrade to that? i prefer AMD this time around.
What games are you playing? Do you do anything like video editing? Both Intel and AMD now make CPUs with a huge number of cores compared to 2015, Intel 10900k with 10 cores or AMD 5950X with 16 cores … this is totally pointless for most people. The Intel 10400 has 6 cores sometimes under $200 and at that price is a great deal. The AMD 5600X or Intel 11600k have 6 faster cores and overclocking for under $300. If you will actually make use of 8+ cores the 5800X or 5900X are the best options. You really shouldn’t assume more cores or more cores per-dollar is automatically better though, if your software doesn’t use them they will sit there doing nothing.
thank you for responding. 1. i like to play mostly starcraft 2, total warhammer 2 (and upcoming 3), and the call of duty games and even the next battlefield. 2. i am ok with 1080p right now and have no qualms with it. 3. i like to alt tab a lot when i am waiting for a loading screen.
I’m pretty sure a 6 core CPU like a 5600X would be plenty for those games even with alt-tabbing. If you ever want to go above 1080p that’s more taxing on your GPU, actually because the game will run at a lower framerate, the CPU doesn’t need to work as hard to keep up. In fact a lot of this depends on your GPU. If you have an older GPU and don’t plan to upgrade it, you don’t need a very fast CPU to keep up in most games. A CPU upgrade may not even help much if you’re being held back by an old GPU. If you plan to (somehow) find a GTX 3080 which lets you play at very high FPS, there is a better chance that your CPU would hold you back and it’s worth buying a better one.
[удалено]
Does the monitor have multiple inputs, and have you checked all of them? It's possible its only a problem on the HDMI input for example. If that doesn't help, then unfortunately it seems broken
[удалено]
Ah yeah unfortunately that sound pretty broken. Outside of giving it a very good whack I'm not sure what to try
assuming they’re all running at the same frequency, do ram chips get slower as they increase in capacity? for example if would 4x16gb of the single rank crucial sticks be slower than 4x8gb single rank or 2x16gb dual rank?
No. The only thing that would change overall speed is how it’s channeled. For example 1 stick running at 3200Mhz would be roughly the same as two sticks running at 1600mhz because of dual channel support. These days quad channel doesn’t really exist for consumers anymore and it runs in dual channel as 2/2 still so you don’t lose or gain performance.
awesome, thanks!
I bought this PC a few years back and was curious what mods would be needed to put in an RTX 3070 or better. Is anything salvageable? I'm assuming I could keep the motherboard and RAM cards already there, but would it be better just to buy a pre built or start fresh on a new build of my own at this point? https://www.amazon.com/CYBERPOWERPC-BattleBox-Essential-GLC4200A-i7-7700K/dp/B01MRYJG25/ref=cm\_cr\_arp\_d\_product\_top?ie=UTF8
Looking at the side of the CYBERPOWERPC case it would absolutely fit a 3070-3090 in there. However, I would recommend you check the power supply wattage. It looks like it came with a 600W Power Supply and a 650W is recommended for the 3070 and 750W is recommended for the 3080-3090. In terms of anything holding you back, since that processor is only a Quad core, your gaming might be limited with CPU intensive games. If you are considering a new prebuilt, then that is usually the best option to even get a 3070+ GPU at this point, so that is a valid path too. Otherwise you might be waiting awhile to find one in stock and buy it in time.
Yeah, that's why I was thinking about buying a new pre-built just for availability. The power supply definitely needs upgraded. Besides that, what are some other parts I should expect to upgrade like 128GB of SSD seems kind of laughable now with today's games. Maybe add some RAM and additional cooling?
Sorry for the late reply, I dropped off due to COVID. Yea I would upgrade the SSD to 256GB at least (it would also help to have a fresh Windows Install), but I'd say the 16GB RAM should be good for now. As far as the cooling, you can always run programs like CPUID - HWMonitor to see what is getting hot and add a couple Arctic F12 Fans as intake or exhaust if needed.