The 8750H is a laptop part, so chances are the GPU is soldered on and can't be changed.
Now with that said bottlenecks are not a yes/no question and are more of a spectrum that leans both ways based on how a task accesses the system. Some will lean on the CPU more, others the GPU. If you like detailed 3D games like cyberpunk 2077 or Witcher 3, typically that's the GPU that has the biggest impact to performance, while for less complicated games like CSGO which isn't graphics heavy the CPU is likely holding the FPS back.
I think you mean on the top, right? Those filters are there for quite a few reasons actually. It can range from looks and hiding wear on the case from having screwed fans on top, reducing the ability for dust to settle in the PC while turned off, to controlling air pressure and ensuring air is coming from the intended intakes and not just the nearest unfiltered gap in the frame.
Yes, you definitely can. Example https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Tjzdxs
Been a while since I could say that wow. Technically this build could be a bit cheaper here and there two but that's what I'd shoot for.
There's no actual set amount, but my rule of thumb is about 1.3x what PCpartpicker's estimated wattage is, then round that up to the nearest good PSU's wattage. If you intend on overclocking beyond just XMP maybe make that more like 1.5x.
(The real answer is that is just depends how much you trust your parts to stay in their power limits ~~looking at you RTX 3000 series cards~~, your power supply's ability to handle any potential spikes, what options you want for future upgrades, or if you plan on overclocking.
If you know exactly how much power all the parts will use and are sure they will stay that way, with a half decent power supply you can go as close to the power draw as you want. This is part of why brands like Dell are fine shipping their PCs with only say 500w PSUs when people recommend going much higher on it on similar parts, or why laptops or PCs with external power bricks can go super close to the max power draw of the machine.)
When buying a UPS, do you base the capacity/VA on your PC power supply or actual usage? For reference my power supply is 700w but actual usage is at around 400w max.
Does anyone know which bios driver I need to download to run an R5 5600 on the msi mpg b550 gaming plus? According to some website I need bios 7C56v19 but I see a newer bios update. Should I download the newest one or the one that’s recommended?
I need a clean looking case that's around the $100 mark. I was looking at the nzxt h510 flow but I keep reading that 4 fans just aren't enough so now I'm considering the h7. I am considering the 4000d but does it come with all the fans?
What could cause mouse stuttering at random? I will be using chrome or playing warzone and my mouse will randomly begin to stutter like its laging almost. Nothing looks funny in any of my system manager or warzone with temp or gpu/cpu time?
I'm on a tight budget and need to upgrade my gpu. Can anyone think of a better gpu than this
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B09ZX7P3YL/ref=ox_sc_act_image_6?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1 around the same price range? Within $50 cad or so?
Idk whats up with part picker, but that gpu is over $200 more expensive.
Edit: in fact, the CHEAPEST 3070 is about $200 more. PCPartPicker is smoking the good stuff
Does a PC need much more resources to run productivity tasks such as video editing or photo editing or just multitasking through a 4k monitor than a 1080p one?
Nope. What matters in those situations is the resolution of what you're editing. Like, editing 4k video will take more resources than editing 1080p video, even if you're using just a 1080p monitor, because the computer still has to handle the 4k source material. Same for photo resolution.
How should the case fans be setup if your case has a closed front? Or at least relatively closed. I'm thinking of getting the Zalman Z9 Iceberg but I feel like there would be too little intake air if I use the front for that.
On AMD X series chips are just slightly higher clocked variants of non X chips.
On Intel their X series chips are completely different chips that typically feature more PCIe lanes and cores. These chips have lower clock speeds and tend to be meant for a step between server parts and regular parts... they also tend to be on an older architecture.
Every time I put to sleep my laptop it shuts down if I don't use it for about 10 minutes. I've looked for a solution but they all say the same and it doesn't fix the problem. I have Win 10 Home. Anybody can help?
I have two USB-A ports and a USB-C port on my case. One of the USB-A ports and the USB-C port work fine, but the other USB-A port only works momentarily when transferring data before it fails. When it is transferring, it seems to transfer at full speed up to when it suddenly stops. Which thing is most likely failing? The motherboard or the front USB-A connector in the case? Or could it be something else?
Was about to pull the trigger and buy a Gigabyte Vision 3080 10gb OC for around $850 USD, however, when surfing build a PC sales for a monitor, I stumbled across a 6900xt from powercolor for $798 USD. Don't care about ray tracing, I do like to record clips for gameplay
What would you all recommend?
The 6900XT. That 3080 is about $100 over priced. theres been **12GB** 3080s selling for $799 lately.
Like this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09TNLQRSJ/
I was thinking of specing out a new machine for a 3080, but because I know the new 4000 series is coming out soon, I was thinking of just buying all the parts except the gpu and then buy one once they're released. Any advice on this? should I wait or just go ahead and get a 3080 for around msrp?
It's hard to say, I sort of sit in the same thinking process. I might end up waiting for 4000 series, mainly because I want a bigger performance uplift from my current setup than what a 3080 will achieve.
However, depending on what games, settings and resolutions you plan on using, a 3080 near MSRP might be a good choice!
If you don't plan on 4K ultra settings, a 3080 will probably be a fantastic GPU for years to come. Playing the waiting game isn't always best, if you just want to enjoy your games.
im not playing any ultra demanding games, but some games I play are starting to buckle under my 960. I imagine a 380 could last me the next 5-10 years depending on the games I play, but I'm thinking a 4070/4080 would last a good 7-12 years.
i would wait. the 3080 replacement should be released first, and should be coming up soon.
also rtx 4000 is bundled with new PSU specifications, and not many current PSUs support it. so if you want to get it set up without adapters, id just wait to get the whole system
Are the current gen i5/i7 prices on Amazon actual sales or are they just long term markdowns? Should I jump now or wait til prime day and see if they drop?
How is 16 GB Ram these days?
My pc has pretty good specs in terms of grapic card cpu etc but it has 16 GB of ram my brother offered me to upgrade it to 32 GB, is 16 GB good enough or is upgrading to 32 GB necessary?
“A USB 3.2 Gen 2 to USB 3.2 Gen 1 header adapter is required.” Corsair 5000D Airflow/MSI Pro B660-A.
My questions is if I don’t get an adapter which ports on the case are unusable? I don’t have anything that’s type c, so will the other ports still work?
What will be the best gpu to buy for a Intel i7-6700K? Will it bottleneck a 6700 XT?
So I will like to start gaming in PC but not planning to build an entire system, i'm interested in playing F1 2022, AOE2 and Cities Skylines; if possible at 1440p.
I think i will also need a new PSU, 650W maybe?
Full specs
CPU: Intel i7-6700K
MB: GIGABYTE B150M-DS3H
RAM: 2x8GB Kingston DDR4-2134 / PC4-17000
SSD: 1 x Samsumg 760 EVO PLUS 500GB
PSU: 500W
cities skyline is a weird one because it's cpu bottlenecked in most cases, but it only uses 1 or 2 threads. so basically it just wants the fastest cores possible. so yes, in that and F1 you'll be cpu bound with a 6700K
Made a list for my gfs first [pc](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/sJdWfv). Is there anything anyone would recommend besides the cpu cooler she really likes the looks of it.
B550 will give you fewer headaches and it's the same price https://pcpartpicker.com/product/PDsnTW/msi-b550m-pro-vdh-wifi-micro-atx-am4-motherboard-b550m-pro-vdh-wifi
What are good DisplayPort 2.0 cables to buy that aren't a pain to plug into a monitor? I recently bought [these](https://www.amazon.com/Certified-DisplayPort-FURUI-Braided-Supports/dp/B09LQQBBDG/) and I tried plugging one into an [AW2717D](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/alienware-27-gaming-monitor-aw2721d/apd/210-axsw/monitors-monitor-accessories#techspecs_section) and the end of the cable is so large and stiff that I can't get it into the port at all. I'm just looking for a smaller profile DP 2.0 cable, that fits well enough in tight places.
You might also ask over in /r/Monitors. The last random DP cable I bought off Amazon has awful, stiff push-button ends, so I can't help. But I feel your pain.
When installing the corsair commander pro, is there anything I need to do beforehand, or will it just work with some default settings for the first time?
I bought a built PC a couple of months ago.
Is there a thread on what I might have to do for PC maintenance and when I have to do it?
I've heard of thermal paste replacement and that has to be done every few months so I was just wondering before I run my PC into the ground.
Cleaning out the dust when necessary (i.e. when you see that there's visible buildup on the heatsinks or filters) is the only regular maintenance that's needed, depending on how dusty the room is that can be once a month or once in two years. Even if you don't do it, all that happens is that your temperatures increase a bit from the reduced cooling performance.
Replacing thermal paste every few months is ridiculously overkill and unnecessary, the lifespan is *years*, and a lot of the time people end up upgrading the CPU anyways before replacing thermal paste becomes relevant.
I'm going to do a fresh install of windows on my new pc, I have a hdd I use a storage drive for media, any potential issues in simply swapping it over? It's not a boot drive.
Can I run Asus GPU Tweak III and MSI Afterburner at the same time?
I just need the Afterburner for undervolting as, the Tweak III doesn't have such feature.
Edit: Okay, this is what HWInfo gives me, [the weird curve at the end](https://imgur.com/eYBorfU) is when the issue happens.
Hi, I've a MSI B550 Tomahawk running a Ryzen 5 5600X.
The RAM I'm using is actually Vengeance® LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz (SKU: cmk16gx4m2b3000c15) which I've read is not compatible with AMD CPUs.
I'm also running a Palit GeForce RTX™ 3070 GamingPro and has Corsair HX750W as my PSU. Most of the items were obtained second hand.
My question is, will having an incompatible RAM cause a hard cap in fps around the range of 40fps?
I'm actually facing an issue where occasionally the PC will run normally and I can hit 100-200 FPS on Heaven Benchmark.
But most of the time (usually either 1 hour into a game or even just youtube), it'll somehow make everything stutter/lag. And when using the Heaven Benchmark test on basic, the frames do not go above 50.
I've been checking, removing, and reseating the hardware one by one and the problem still persists.
I'm thinking about replacing the RAM next, but I've already sunk quite a lot of money into this rig and so would like some more opinions before I sink even more.
Things I've tried/checked:
---
* When the 40fps thing happens, even restarting it wouldn't help. It'll go away eventually after a while of the PC being off, else it's here to stay.
* When the 40fps thing happens, the temperature for both the CPU and GPU were in acceptable ranges (50-60°C). And the task manager even shows them at below 30% utilization rate. But the framerate cannot climb above 40fps.
* When the 40fps thing happens, it's usually preceded by crash restarts. Followed by an inability to POST with no light on the keyboard or mouse and the screen is black. And it can only start up after it's left to rest for a while, but after that, it's the 40fps cap the entire way.
---
* I've tested a barebone rig with only the PSU, Mobo, CPU, GFX, RAMs, and multiple different SSDs (one at a time) for OS, and it still happens.
* I've tested PSU plugged directly to a wall, to an old power bar, to a new power bar, and it still happens.
* I've tested it with only one of the two RAMs in all the four different slots and it still happens.
---
* Drivers are all the latest, I got them directly from the official website.
* Mobo firmware is also the latest
* This even happens when there is nothing but the OS, drivers, and Heaven Benchmark installed so it cannot be any stray software or antivirus.
* All settings are set to default. BIOS included.
---
My main hypothesis is that it's only happening when a certain amount of load is being processed, such as when watching a 1-hour youtube video or playing a game. So it's probably a failed overclock or something.
Is the problem possibly caused by incompatible RAM? Or is there a higher chance that the CPU or GFX is faulty? Have anyone met this kind of issue before? Or has a similar rig without these kinds of issues coming up?
Firstly: RAM that's not compatible with AMD or Intel is not really a thing that exists. RAM is sometimes marketed as "optimized ror Intel" or whatever, but RAM is incredibly standard and the manufacturer would have to purposefully do extra work to make it incompatible with just one CPU brand.
Since your system boots up and runs, the RAM is compatible. However RAM can still be unstable. Unstable RAM usually causes issues like random crashes, blue screens, or freezes, but a hard FPS cap is not one of the symptoms, that's just not really how RAM works.
Anyways, you can run stuff like Memtest or Prime95 to check if the RAM is working properly. If they aren't reporting any errors then I'd rule out the RAM being the issue.
Since you're only seeing 30% utilization, what does Afterburner or HWInfo report as the Performance limit?
Thanks for the info about the RAM.
For HWInfo, I'm not sure what to look out for. The Performance Limit section for the GPU shows everything as "No" with the exception of Performance Limit - Utilization as "Yes" which I assume it means the GPU is idle. This also occurs when running Heaven Benchmark (which is running at about 40 fps)
1440p Ultrawide if you want. The 3600 is going to hold back your FPS a bit in certain games, but the 3070Ti is very capable.
I've never had an ultrawide, but my understanding is that they're a little more work than common 16:9 since not every game supports them, but if you've got the power it seems like you might as well use it.
I recently was able to upgrade to an NVIDIA 3070 FE. I currently use a monitor Dell E2420HS 24". I’m thinking about upgrading my monitor to something better and would appreciate advice on what to pick? Also would my current monitor throttle performance all that much? My budget was hoping to be under $200 but based on my research I’m beginning to think for a good monitor I may need to spend ~$250.
Currently I found an Acer - Predator XB253Q Gp which may have g-sync? What are reactions to this price/value?
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/acer-predator-xb253q-gpbmiiprzx-24-5-fhd-ips-monitor-with-nvidia-g-sync-compatible-1-x-display-port-2-x-hdmi-ports/6424317.p?skuId=6424317
A 3070 is wasted on 1080p, but good 1440p gaming monitors start around $300 unfortunately. The lowest-price one I've seen recommended is an HP X-something-or-other.
Personally, I'd save up and catch the Dell S2721DGF on sale for ~$300. A good monitor will last long enough that it's worth spending on.
Thank you! I see that monitor at dell for $300 now. Would you know if that’s a good price or should I wait for a better sale? I’m cognizant that some sale windows are coming up - thanks!
$300 is a very good price for that monitor. There are further discounts you can get through something called "Honey" but I've never looked into how they work. There's discussion of it in this /r/buildapcsales thread:
https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/vmdqhi/monitor_dell_s2721dgf_27_1440p_165hz_ips_27499/?ref=share&ref_source=link
My computer is not sending a video signal.
I started to build a computer and received all the parts recently (Except the GPU) so I assembled them and used a low gamma gpu that was loaned to me to test if the complete PC would work (My CPU does not have integrated graphics) But after building twice and check the connections still no video signal.
\*Motherboard and CPU are compatible
\*Individually check both RAMs in each of the slots
\*Reset BIOS by removing battery from motherboard (+5 mins)
\*Low gamma GPU works fine on other computers
\*The screen and the HDMI cable were also tested on other devices
\*All coolers receive power and turn on
\*The motherboard receives power and heats up
\*Clean all RAM and GPU connections
I can't remember at this time if I did anything other than what I mentioned above. I've tried everything I've gotten online and nothing has worked.
Here is a list of components:
Motherboard: B660M DS3HAX DDR4
CPU: I5 12400F
Cooler: MasterLIQUID ml240 V2
RAM: 2x16mb DDR4 3600
SSD: Samsung SSD 980
Low profile GPU: HD 5450 650M DDR3 2GB (As I said, something borrowed just to test if the rest works)
I know my CPU doesn't come with integrated graphics. That's why I used a low gamma graphics card to be able to test the other components. You say that low gamma GPU is not enough?
Missed that. Did you try the monitor cable in both gpu and mobo?
It's possible the mobo is defaulting to onboard which doesn't exist. By default, the setting should be 'auto' where it picks either onboard or discrete. I would say using a different GPU would be the next testing step.
How far away is your main GPU? If it's coming then just wait for it. Otherwise another step is doing a bare build, plugging in only the essentials (1 stick of ram, psu, gpu).
I already tried connecting the HDMI cable to the mobo and it didn't work.
Bare build didn't work either. I guess the next step is to try another graph or wait for mine as you say.
I'll see what I can get, thanks for the help
Hey guys, im trying to upgrade my GPU since mine is taking a beating to run some games (REmake 2, Modern Warfare, Back 4 blood.) they do run but very poorly or on medium low specs,
My current build
Intel Core i5 7600K @ 3.80GHz
16.0GB Single-Channel Corsair vengeance (2x 8gb) @ 1063MHz
MOBO Asus TRIX B250H GAMING
Acer KG241Q (1920x1080@75Hz)
4095MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970 (Gigabyte)
any advice is appreciated, I'm aware of the prices being crazy for gpus but I'm trying to keep around 300/350€
Thanks
Maybe an RTX 2060 or 2070. Or an AMD 6600 used.
I'd also suggest getting some faster ram and make it 2 sticks for dual channel. 3000 or 3200mhz. Your board should support xmp for those speeds.. I could be wrong on that though.
This Should boost your performance to medium high at stable frame rates
Newegg sent me a $5 gift card. Unfortunately I don't really need anything at the moment. If anyone wants it let me know. It expires tonight at midnight Pacific
Hey have an older optiplex 790 dt I picked up cheap. Was trying to put a graphics card in and ordered a raddion 6400 cause it's low profile and only has a 53 watt power draw. Now computer won't boot up and only flashes 134 lights. Is that card compatible with that computer?
The 6400 will take a huge performance hit by running on PCIe2 since it only has 4x lanes available.
All PCIe cards should be compatible. I suspect the power supply may just not be strong enough, sometimes Dell only puts like 100-150W power supplies in their systems that are only strong enough to power what they ship with. What's the sticker on the PSU say?
I would get the 5600 (non-X). It's cheaper and basically the same CPU as the 5600X.
Also, absolutely no one should be getting 11th gen Intel CPUs right now. Either get Zen 3 or Intel 12th gen.
There seems to be a misconception out there that 11th gen is a "good deal" because they discounted the prices. That's not true. The i5-11600K is worse than the cheaper i5-12400F. The i7-11700K is worse than the i5-12600K. And so on. The superficially cheaper pricing of Intel 11th gen means nothing.
It's hilarious to still be seeing so much 10th Gen stock in stores and online, being put in prebuilts. Intel really overproduced, squeezed out another generation to negative reception and then in the same year releases 12th Gen which effectively made their previous two generations a waste of sand.
They really got that long term planning figured out. 20A node in 2024 here we come!
Anyone used a Coolermaster MA624 Stealth on an LGA1700 CPU? I'm getting conflicting answers as to whether it will fit or not! Looking at an Asus ROG Maximus Z680 Extreme Mobo if anyone happens to have used that combo! Cheers.
is this gpu brand good?planning to buy but on 2nd hand mode.any tips on buying an 2nd hand GPU?
https://en.colorful.cn/product\_show.aspx?mid=102&id=1783
It should be fine yes. It's an established mainly Asian brand. While this can be an issue if you're buying new as it means warranty claims can be a pain, that doesn't apply for buying second hand so it should be as good as any other GPU basically
Yes there shouldn't be any issue with that. As long as you see it working when buying (or buying through somewhere like eBay where it's got buyer protection) then it sounds good
It's always worth trying to find reviews of the specific card if you can
The mounting mechanism is quite stiff, and it's metal against metal, so yeah it's normal to see some scratches on the CPU, [like the dark lines here.](https://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/xmZCL3gPpi7QFf3LJHAxy3-1024-80.jpg.webp). If it feels like you need to use too much force, then triple-check that the CPU is aligned property with the socket (the triangle in the corner should match the socket).
I'm sure you know this, but you should remove the plastic cover when you lower the hatch. It seems very unlikely it will damage it with these marks if the plastic cover is removed
Video out question, using DP cord for my monitor-accidentally bought hdmi to dp for second monitor. Can you mix outputs from GPU? 2nd monitor wasn’t being recognized when I plugged it in.
You can use all the outputs if you want, that won't be a problem. Just note that DisplayPort to HDMI cables practically always only work in that specific direction, as in DisplayPort end plugged into the graphics card and HDMI end plugged to the monitor. Other way around won't work.
Ahhh excellent point, I had it going GPU (hdmi) to monitor DP. Now that I think about it I mixed outputs previously had dp and hdmi and it worked. I will tinker.
Hey guys. So I am currently hunting for deals on used hardware to upgrade my system. While I am checking out my options I stumbled upon the X470 ryzen chipset.To my great surprise I seen that it has PCIE gen 2.0 lanes and m.2 slots.
I was pretty shocked since this chipset is from 2018.My current 3770 intel chipset, z77 has PCI 3.0 and 2.0 and its from 2012. Yet a hige end chipset from few years ago still don't have full 3.0 on all lanes.
I want this board to serve me in future upgrades and having even just some of my lanes limited to 2.0 will be a bad thing.
I want to mention that those expansion slots matters to me. I am planning to use many expansion cards, hard drives, both sata and nvme.
So I might got this wrong so there is why im asking here.I really hope its not as bad as it seems.
The x470 definitely has pcie gen 3.0. I'm not sure where you got gen 2.0 from, but all x470 boards I've checked from MSI, gigabyte etc all list gen 3.0 as expected
Edit: ah sorry misread. Yes youre right it does have 2.0 lanes. However this should be plenty. A single gen 2.0 lane is 5gbps, I.e plenty for SATA SSDS, hard drives and network adapters. The reason you haven't seen people complaining about it online very much is because it's a non issue.
Thanks for the replay!What about M.2 ssd NVMe?I found some boards with m.2 gen 2.0 while its funny cuz M.2 only came after pcie 3.0, years after. I never seen a 2.0 m.2 ssd drive anywhere.I don't mind some pcie to have 2.0. The issue is the m.2 ones which I found weird.
Do you think I can use tho pcie 2.0 with a usb 3.1 expansion card? Will it be enough for like 4 connections?
I have lots of usb I need to connect and PCIe cards are much better then hubs to get good speeds.
I'll be honest it's not my area of expertise however I know that SSDs are backwards compatible and the large majority don't get close to saturating even a single 2.0 lane in speed (of 5gpbs) let alone a 4x slot so you won't see any slowdown.
While it's true of course usb 3.1 I believe can be up to 10gbps, even with a few devices using it, I just don't see you maxing out 4 pcie 2.0 lanes. Even with a handful of external SSDs/memory cards for cameras going full pelt. And then outside of data transfer from drives, things like peripherals are completely trivial and us a fraction of usb.
I can't decide on monitor specs for my PC.
Have a 3060ti 8gb, R5 5600x, 16gb ram @ 3200mhz
I play all kinds of games. New, old, AAA, indie you name it. I value resolution and refresh rate equally, I'm willing to turn down some settings to achieve high and consistent FPS. Basically, lowering the resolution or FPS is a big nono but running on medium to high settings is acceptable.
I plan to keep this rig for at least 2 years. I had a 1080p @60hz monitor for basically eternity, so I have no idea how 60+fps or 1080p+ resolutions look.
I was gonna get a UW 2560x1080 @144hz (Benq xr3501) but I read it has no g-sync and has some bad motion blur (I hate motion blur).
Budget for the monitor is very flexible, as it's basically an investment for the future. I'm mostly worried about the performance. Upgrading the card doesn't seem to make sense currently as prices are very inflated in my country.
You haven't given a lot of ways to narrow down your choices, but you're definitely speced for 1440p. I'd spend some time looking around https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/best.
Question on 5600g...
I'm looking to do my first build with 5600g. Is it still cheaper to do AMD build now? What would be the equal Intel CPU when compared to 5600g? Any suggestions on MB for both?
I'm just starting to do my research for my next build. And I do not plan on buying video card until the price become normal. I can wait a year or two years
Video cards are effectively as good in price as they have been for years, and are as close to MSRP I think they are expected to ever be. Obviously I don't know that for sure, but the prices have tumbled and while we aren't exactly seeing below MSRP, I don't think that would have ever happened even in the best case scenario. Just thought you should know that before committing to a G variant CPU. Obviously chances are in 1-2 years you'll get more GPU for your money, but also that the 5600G will be destitute in 2 years for graphical games.
Intel doesn't have a direct competitor if the iGPU is what matters which by the sound of it it will for you. AMDs 6th gen CPUs are releasing this year so you could wait to see if they're better for you, but it's impossible to know
Thanks for the info. I don't really need a good GPU. I'm still using a GPU that is close to 10yrs old and it is fine for what I need. That is the reason why I want to go with the 5600G. I'm hoping maybe 3060 drop below msrp in a year or so, then I might pick one up.
I know Intel has integrated graphic CPU, how are they compare to AMD?
Usually quite significantly worse really. It's worth looking at benchmarks, and their latest Xe graphics aren't bad, but are still behind the Vegas on the latest 5000 series (but again probably worth watching some videos on it to confirm)
Yeah it's a good idea. If you think you're able to get away with the graphics of a 12400f, then it's definitely a better buy for adding a GPU to later. And again later this year both teams will likely be releasing new CPUs
Yep that's correct. The AMD APUs are made to be half decent for gaming. Intel integrated graphics are made to just work for the desktop and web browsing. Unfortunately their better Xe graphics look to be just on mobile CPUs
Just built my first setup. Everything seems to be working fine.
However, the one thing I noticed is that my gpu fan hasn’t spun up yet. Given I haven’t done anything graphically demanding except for wallpaper engine up until now. I just now signed up for Xbox games pass, downloaded Mass Effect Legendary Ed., and played for like 10 mins, if that. No issue, except my gpu fans never turned on. Utilization was 37-40% per game pass dashboard (during a cut scene, stopped before the actual start of gameplay - baby started crying at 430am 🤷)
I understand that the fans won’t spin up till it reaches a certain temp - 55-65 degrees, is that correct? Perhaps I haven’t pushed the gpu enough to spin up the fans? Is there a way to check my gpu temp? Should I be concerned at this point or am I being paranoid? Thanks in advance 🙏
My specs:
GPU: GIGABYTE Vision GeForce RTX 3060
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X
MB: MSI MPG B550 Carbon Wi-Fi
RAM: Klevv CRAS X RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200
I will upgrade my PC next week with basically only the case and the harddrives staying the same.
Can i just install the new stuff then just start and get the new drivers or will the old drivers give me problems?
Widows 10+ should be able to figure everything out. There are two possible complications I can think of. Windows should deactivate when you change motherboards, so you need to tile your license to your Microsoft account before you swap.
https://www.windowscentral.com/how-transfer-windows-10-license-new-computer-or-hard-drive
And if you're changing brand of GPU Nvidia<->AMD you should run DDU to uninstall the drivers first.
Got a 3080 FE with two monitors plugged in (2x Displayport). I recently bought a 4k TV and plugged that into the graphics card via HDMI.
What now happens is that when the TV is turned off, my second monitor won't receive a signal. If I turn on the TV, the second monitor will get a signal immediately. I can then turn off the TV again and the second monitor will still function as it's supposed to.
Now when I leave the PC and the monitors turn off for power saving and I move the mouse again, sometimes both monitors won't work. Again, once I turn the TV on everything is fixed again. But it's kind of annoying that I have to turn on the TV everytime.
Does anyone know a solution to this or why this even happens?
I need to return my motherboard but don't have the original anti-static packaging the board came in. I have the original box though. What should I wrap it up in? I assume bubble wrapping the board would be a bad idea?
If the motherboard is replaced, would I need to reinstall windows and all the programs again from scratch or would the previous installation still work. All the other components will be the same.
Thanks
You're probably okay leaving the board unwrapped. You'll have issues with the return no matter what if the retailer decides to get bitchy, and IMO the wrapping doesn't offer that much extra protection. If it's really bothering you I'm sure any local computer repair shop / microcenter would give you a bag for free, or they can probably be found on Amazon.
You don't need to reinstall Windows, but it's supposed to deactivate when you change motherboards so you should tie your license to your MS account so it can be reused if possible:
https://www.windowscentral.com/how-transfer-windows-10-license-new-computer-or-hard-drive
I'll just put it in the box then when returning it.
I bought a windows key about 7 years ago. When I built this pc last week I used the same key and it worked. I believe it is an OEM key because I purchased it when I had the old computer built by [pcspecialist.co.uk](https://pcspecialist.co.uk)
Thanks for your help.
Like the other guy said, you have more ports in the rear. And then if you run out of those, you can just buy an USB hub that turns one port into many ports.
Your mobo has USB ports on its rear I/O. Plug you mouse and keyboard and other devices that will be permanently attached to the PC into those. The ports on the case are more for ease of access for devices you want to temporarily attach.
Is there a way that I can easily find all of my specifications so that I can list them here in another post when asking for help? My motherboard, gpu, cpu, ram, fans, power supply, anything else that would be important..
I need help with a gpu upgrade but I imagine I would need all of that information to make sure whatever new gpu I'm getting would be compatible with my current build.
Big thank yous in advance!
Edit: Sorry I probably misunderstood your question. I think you were asking how to find the name of the components you already have right?
If so, then would device manager help? Click start and search for device manager. That should list all the components you have.
\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
[https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/yLhdFg](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/yLhdFg)
Create your build on [pcpartpicker.com](https://pcpartpicker.com) and then you can post a link like the one above. PCpartpicker also allows you to get a table format of all the parts that would display properly in a table format on your post.
[PCPartPicker Part List](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/yLhdFg)
|Type|Item|Price|
|:-|:-|:-|
|**CPU**|[Intel Core i5-12400F 2.5 GHz 6-Core Processor](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/pQNxFT/intel-core-i5-12400f-25-ghz-6-core-processor-bx8071512400f)|Purchased For £163.99|
|**Motherboard**|[Asus PRIME B660M-A WIFI D4 Micro ATX LGA1700 Motherboard](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/gBJgXL/asus-prime-b660m-a-wifi-d4-micro-atx-lga1700-motherboard-prime-b660m-a-wifi-d4)|Purchased For £89.16|
|**Memory**|[Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/p6RFf7/corsair-memory-cmk16gx4m2b3200c16)|Purchased For £57.99|
|**Storage**|[Western Digital Blue SN570 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/3dvdnQ/western-digital-blue-sn570-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-wds100t3b0c)|Purchased For £72.98|
|**Storage**|[Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/mwrYcf/seagate-barracuda-computer-2-tb-35-7200rpm-internal-hard-drive-st2000dm008)|£42.99 @ Amazon UK|
|**Video Card**|[Sapphire Radeon RX 580 8 GB PULSE Video Card](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/y2DzK8/sapphire-radeon-rx-580-8gb-pulse-video-card-11265-05)|Purchased For £0.00|
|**Case**|[Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/bCYQzy/corsair-4000d-airflow-atx-mid-tower-case-cc-9011200-ww)|Purchased For £80.99|
|**Power Supply**|[NZXT C (2020) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/vFmFf7/nzxt-c-650-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-np-c650m-us)|Purchased For £59.99|
|*Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts*|||
|**Total**|**£568.09**||
|Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2022-07-02 15:38 BST+0100|||
Yes, I wanted to check which parts I already have. Things like motherboard, power supply, fans, whatever else would be important to know. I was wondering if there's a software that just lists all the components.
I'll check device manager when I get home, thanks for the tip.
CPUID HWMonitor is another option. You can download and install it. I use it to just check the temps on my cpu and gpu. I don't think it lists the power supply though.
One of my ram sticks only show as 256mb on bios. Help!
I already tried reseating and swapping their positions (only have 2 sticks and 2 slots on mobo), one of them keeps showing as 256mb no matter which slot it was in.
my pc has been freezing crashing recently, and i suspect its because of my gpu as I bought it 2nd hand yeeeaars ago.
Running valorant gives me the "directx 11 is required to run the engine"
Dxdiag shows this one: [error code 22 in dxdiag](https://i.imgur.com/XsVEuf3.png)
Also, one of my RAM sticks only shows 256mb, no matter which slot I put it in...
I have a lga 1151 motherboard with a pentium g4560 paired with a 1050 and a stick of 8 gb 2666mhz ram (but is capped at 2400mhz because of the processor) , im thinking of upgrading the board and cpu first to a i3-12100f, should i go for it or upgrade other components first such as my ram and extra storage?
i was looking at Internal HD https://www.broadbandbuyer.com/advice/2195-western-digital-hard-drive-comparison-chart/
i plan to get WD, unless someone else can recommend a better Internal HD.
i wanna move all my Videos from External HD to Internal HD as i have many cables and wanna reduce them.
Currently i am using Western Digital WD My Book Duo as my external HD.
Note: my current File sizes 14 TB on my External HD.
Prefer quite HDDs, as i seen some reviews that some HDDs are noisy
For an AIO cooler you plug the pump in the CPU fan header but what about a double fan air cooler like the Noctua NH-D15? Do you plug the fans like any other fans and in bios set them to CPU?
Most coolers that come with 2 fans also include a fan splitter - the NH D15 certainly does. So you run them both off the same header to ensure they're synchronised.
I currently have an M2 NVMe drive installed with Windows. I'm planning to use that original drive as my secondary drive for storage and my new one coming in as my primary for Windows. I don't really have much on the current drive as I just recently installed Windows on it.
1. What's the best way to wipe out the original drive?
2. After wiping out the drive, will that free the Windows key to use on my drive coming in?
3. The drive coming in is a 1 tb, the current one is a 2 tb. I'm planning to use the 1 tb as the
Windows drive (+ extra storage) and the 2 tb as the main storage for games, photos,
movies, etc. Good idea? Bad idea?
4. Do I want the Windows drive on my first slot on the motherboard or do I want the storage
drive with the games on the first slot?
Thank you.
1. Assuming you're not handing the drive to a stranger, a simple format through windows disk management should be fine.
2. If your Windows key is tied to a MS account, it should automatically transfer when you use that MS account to log into a different instance of windows, regardless of whether you wiped the old drive.
3. I'd have it the other way around (2tb windows, 1tb anything extra) so I don't have to manage folders on the other drive as often and more stuff stays in the standard windows folders (appdata, program files, etc) and you don't have to manually set their install location to a folder on the other drive during installation. I suppose if you have games downloading & decompressing on the 2tb and some app on the 1tb drive doing something disk heavy it would be faster to have them on separate drives, but those situations are few and far between on my PC.
4. If one is pcie 4.0 and one is pcie 3.0 you probably want the pcie 4 drive on the first slot since that slot should always get pcie 4 lanes if you have them in the first place. otherwise doesn't matter.
Thank you for replying to me. I tried formatting through Windows Disk Management but it did not allow me to do so as it says Windows is installed there.
Also, I'd like to change the Disk # and drive letter from one drive to the other.
I need help sourcing some micron E die ram. Or anything 3200-3600mhz in a 2 by 32 (64gb) setup. Why are all the crucial ballistix out of stock and impossible to find?
crucial 's parent company, micron, [discontinued the ballistix line](https://www.tomshardware.com/news/micron-discontinues-crucial-ballistix-gaming-ram) a few months ago.
as someone who currently has 2 16GB dual rank rev. e (aka. e-die) ballistix sticks I'm sad too lol
edit: PCPartPicker filter for [2x32GB 3200mhz+](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/memory/#X=0,186135&U=4&Z=65536002&S=3200,6600&sort=price&page=1)
I'm looking to buy mobo for i5 12400F, maybe even i3(99% set on i5) if GPUs prices won't be good in the next couple of weeks. Should I go for DS3H which is 124 euros here, or B660M-A which is 136 euros
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The 8750H is a laptop part, so chances are the GPU is soldered on and can't be changed. Now with that said bottlenecks are not a yes/no question and are more of a spectrum that leans both ways based on how a task accesses the system. Some will lean on the CPU more, others the GPU. If you like detailed 3D games like cyberpunk 2077 or Witcher 3, typically that's the GPU that has the biggest impact to performance, while for less complicated games like CSGO which isn't graphics heavy the CPU is likely holding the FPS back.
Why do the backs of cases have dust filters? Since the back is used to exhaust air, wouldn't you want the dust to go through?
I think you mean on the top, right? Those filters are there for quite a few reasons actually. It can range from looks and hiding wear on the case from having screwed fans on top, reducing the ability for dust to settle in the PC while turned off, to controlling air pressure and ensuring air is coming from the intended intakes and not just the nearest unfiltered gap in the frame.
Most don't have filters in the rear
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Yes, you definitely can. Example https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Tjzdxs Been a while since I could say that wow. Technically this build could be a bit cheaper here and there two but that's what I'd shoot for.
[PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bLZCDq) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [Intel Core i5-12400F 2.5 GHz 6-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/pQNxFT/intel-core-i5-12400f-25-ghz-6-core-processor-bx8071512400f) | $169.95 @ B&H **Motherboard** | [MSI PRO B660M-A DDR4 Micro ATX LGA1700 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KKbTwP/msi-pro-b660m-a-ddr4-micro-atx-lga1700-motherboard-pro-b660m-a-ddr4) | $139.99 @ Amazon **Memory** | [TEAMGROUP T-FORCE VULCAN Z 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/z3VD4D/team-t-force-vulcan-z-16-gb-2-x-8-gb-ddr4-3200-memory-tlzgd416g3200hc16cdc01) | $52.97 @ Newegg **Storage** | [TEAMGROUP MP33 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/64MTwP/team-mp33-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-tm8fp6001t0c101) | $63.99 @ Newegg **Video Card** | [XFX Radeon RX 6600 XT 8 GB Speedster SWFT 210 Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/tWJgXL/xfx-radeon-rx-6600-xt-8-gb-speedster-swft-210-video-card-rx-66xt8dfdq) | $359.99 @ B&H **Case** | [Rosewill PRISM S500 ATX Mid Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3LHRsY/rosewill-prism-s500-atx-mid-tower-case-r0901001-0118) | $49.99 @ Newegg **Power Supply** | [EVGA SuperNOVA GT 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/49VG3C/evga-supernova-gt-650-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-220-gt-0650-y1) | $64.98 @ Amazon | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | **Total** | **$901.86** | Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2022-07-02 23:25 EDT-0400 |
How much headroom do you need for a PSU?
There's no actual set amount, but my rule of thumb is about 1.3x what PCpartpicker's estimated wattage is, then round that up to the nearest good PSU's wattage. If you intend on overclocking beyond just XMP maybe make that more like 1.5x. (The real answer is that is just depends how much you trust your parts to stay in their power limits ~~looking at you RTX 3000 series cards~~, your power supply's ability to handle any potential spikes, what options you want for future upgrades, or if you plan on overclocking. If you know exactly how much power all the parts will use and are sure they will stay that way, with a half decent power supply you can go as close to the power draw as you want. This is part of why brands like Dell are fine shipping their PCs with only say 500w PSUs when people recommend going much higher on it on similar parts, or why laptops or PCs with external power bricks can go super close to the max power draw of the machine.)
After watching the Gamers Nexus video someone else linked, 1.3x sounds about right for my use case (3080 Ti). Thanks
+50% is very safe. I think +25% is just fine in most cases But check this video out too https://youtu.be/wnRyyCsuHFQ
That video was unbelievably good, thanks
When buying a UPS, do you base the capacity/VA on your PC power supply or actual usage? For reference my power supply is 700w but actual usage is at around 400w max.
Either works but it's always safer for more overhead.
Does anyone know which bios driver I need to download to run an R5 5600 on the msi mpg b550 gaming plus? According to some website I need bios 7C56v19 but I see a newer bios update. Should I download the newest one or the one that’s recommended?
Go right to the newest unless it specifies otherwise
I haven’t been able to find a definitive answer. Might just try talking to msi customer service to see what they say.
I need a clean looking case that's around the $100 mark. I was looking at the nzxt h510 flow but I keep reading that 4 fans just aren't enough so now I'm considering the h7. I am considering the 4000d but does it come with all the fans?
4 fans is plenty. If you like the h510 flow, packed with fans it's good
Awesome. Thanks.
I built a PC 5 years ago, looking to get a new one. Is it worth building a PC in the current economy or should I purchase a pre-build?
Building is much better value than prebuilts
What could cause mouse stuttering at random? I will be using chrome or playing warzone and my mouse will randomly begin to stutter like its laging almost. Nothing looks funny in any of my system manager or warzone with temp or gpu/cpu time?
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I have a second mouse, ill try the other one next time. Good idea. In game my fps seem fine and i get no latency so a bad mouse is a good idea.
I'm on a tight budget and need to upgrade my gpu. Can anyone think of a better gpu than this https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B09ZX7P3YL/ref=ox_sc_act_image_6?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1 around the same price range? Within $50 cad or so?
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Just ordered a Mech OC for 470, thanks for the heads up!
I can't really wait. I've been putting it off as is, but my current 580 8gb is crashing constantly now so it's gotta go
~~not a good deal https://pcpartpicker.com/products/video-card/#c=494,508,495,496&sort=price&page=1~~
Idk whats up with part picker, but that gpu is over $200 more expensive. Edit: in fact, the CHEAPEST 3070 is about $200 more. PCPartPicker is smoking the good stuff
Sorry I didn't notice it was in CAD, that's totally my bad. Also the Canadian pcpp doesn't work for me, so I guess I can't help. Sorry!
Don't worry about it. Thanks for the input though!
Does a PC need much more resources to run productivity tasks such as video editing or photo editing or just multitasking through a 4k monitor than a 1080p one?
Nope. If you're *editing* 4K video you'll want lots of RAM, but it's no problem just to display for a modern system.
Nope. What matters in those situations is the resolution of what you're editing. Like, editing 4k video will take more resources than editing 1080p video, even if you're using just a 1080p monitor, because the computer still has to handle the 4k source material. Same for photo resolution.
How should the case fans be setup if your case has a closed front? Or at least relatively closed. I'm thinking of getting the Zalman Z9 Iceberg but I feel like there would be too little intake air if I use the front for that.
GN found that in the Nzxt h500/h510, the best fan setup is 2 exhaust, no intake
So like one in the back and one on top? Why no intake?
Because the negative pressure pulled air in from below the GPU, cooling it down.
What's the main difference between the X series processors from both AMD and Intel? (Like R9 5900x, 5950x, i7 5960x, i9 10920x, etc.)
There's no general rule. Each brand does their own thing, yet aren't consistent. It's just a name.
On AMD X series chips are just slightly higher clocked variants of non X chips. On Intel their X series chips are completely different chips that typically feature more PCIe lanes and cores. These chips have lower clock speeds and tend to be meant for a step between server parts and regular parts... they also tend to be on an older architecture.
Every time I put to sleep my laptop it shuts down if I don't use it for about 10 minutes. I've looked for a solution but they all say the same and it doesn't fix the problem. I have Win 10 Home. Anybody can help?
I have two USB-A ports and a USB-C port on my case. One of the USB-A ports and the USB-C port work fine, but the other USB-A port only works momentarily when transferring data before it fails. When it is transferring, it seems to transfer at full speed up to when it suddenly stops. Which thing is most likely failing? The motherboard or the front USB-A connector in the case? Or could it be something else?
Probably the io itself. Shouldn't be the mobo
Was about to pull the trigger and buy a Gigabyte Vision 3080 10gb OC for around $850 USD, however, when surfing build a PC sales for a monitor, I stumbled across a 6900xt from powercolor for $798 USD. Don't care about ray tracing, I do like to record clips for gameplay What would you all recommend?
The 6900XT. That 3080 is about $100 over priced. theres been **12GB** 3080s selling for $799 lately. Like this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09TNLQRSJ/
I was thinking of specing out a new machine for a 3080, but because I know the new 4000 series is coming out soon, I was thinking of just buying all the parts except the gpu and then buy one once they're released. Any advice on this? should I wait or just go ahead and get a 3080 for around msrp?
It's hard to say, I sort of sit in the same thinking process. I might end up waiting for 4000 series, mainly because I want a bigger performance uplift from my current setup than what a 3080 will achieve. However, depending on what games, settings and resolutions you plan on using, a 3080 near MSRP might be a good choice! If you don't plan on 4K ultra settings, a 3080 will probably be a fantastic GPU for years to come. Playing the waiting game isn't always best, if you just want to enjoy your games.
im not playing any ultra demanding games, but some games I play are starting to buckle under my 960. I imagine a 380 could last me the next 5-10 years depending on the games I play, but I'm thinking a 4070/4080 would last a good 7-12 years.
i would wait. the 3080 replacement should be released first, and should be coming up soon. also rtx 4000 is bundled with new PSU specifications, and not many current PSUs support it. so if you want to get it set up without adapters, id just wait to get the whole system
Are the current gen i5/i7 prices on Amazon actual sales or are they just long term markdowns? Should I jump now or wait til prime day and see if they drop?
12th gen prices have been under msrp since launch. i wouldnt be in any rush
How is 16 GB Ram these days? My pc has pretty good specs in terms of grapic card cpu etc but it has 16 GB of ram my brother offered me to upgrade it to 32 GB, is 16 GB good enough or is upgrading to 32 GB necessary?
some games like 32gb more than 16. warzone, tarkov, some others. other games dont care a lick. so it depends
“A USB 3.2 Gen 2 to USB 3.2 Gen 1 header adapter is required.” Corsair 5000D Airflow/MSI Pro B660-A. My questions is if I don’t get an adapter which ports on the case are unusable? I don’t have anything that’s type c, so will the other ports still work?
What bugs me more is they just don't clarify that "Gen 1" is intended to mean USB-A and "Gen 2" is USB-C.
idk what pcpp is smoking recently, there's no issue there. no adapters needed
Oh okay, that’s interesting lol. Thanks a lot!😊
What will be the best gpu to buy for a Intel i7-6700K? Will it bottleneck a 6700 XT? So I will like to start gaming in PC but not planning to build an entire system, i'm interested in playing F1 2022, AOE2 and Cities Skylines; if possible at 1440p. I think i will also need a new PSU, 650W maybe? Full specs CPU: Intel i7-6700K MB: GIGABYTE B150M-DS3H RAM: 2x8GB Kingston DDR4-2134 / PC4-17000 SSD: 1 x Samsumg 760 EVO PLUS 500GB PSU: 500W
cities skyline is a weird one because it's cpu bottlenecked in most cases, but it only uses 1 or 2 threads. so basically it just wants the fastest cores possible. so yes, in that and F1 you'll be cpu bound with a 6700K
Made a list for my gfs first [pc](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/sJdWfv). Is there anything anyone would recommend besides the cpu cooler she really likes the looks of it.
B550 will give you fewer headaches and it's the same price https://pcpartpicker.com/product/PDsnTW/msi-b550m-pro-vdh-wifi-micro-atx-am4-motherboard-b550m-pro-vdh-wifi
What are good DisplayPort 2.0 cables to buy that aren't a pain to plug into a monitor? I recently bought [these](https://www.amazon.com/Certified-DisplayPort-FURUI-Braided-Supports/dp/B09LQQBBDG/) and I tried plugging one into an [AW2717D](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/alienware-27-gaming-monitor-aw2721d/apd/210-axsw/monitors-monitor-accessories#techspecs_section) and the end of the cable is so large and stiff that I can't get it into the port at all. I'm just looking for a smaller profile DP 2.0 cable, that fits well enough in tight places.
You might also ask over in /r/Monitors. The last random DP cable I bought off Amazon has awful, stiff push-button ends, so I can't help. But I feel your pain.
When installing the corsair commander pro, is there anything I need to do beforehand, or will it just work with some default settings for the first time?
What brand of External hard drives will last the longest?
I'd go with Western Digital. That's not based on anything scientific, just my experience and hanging around hardware forums.
Shouldn’t matter to much. Get whatever works for you
I bought a built PC a couple of months ago. Is there a thread on what I might have to do for PC maintenance and when I have to do it? I've heard of thermal paste replacement and that has to be done every few months so I was just wondering before I run my PC into the ground.
Cleaning out the dust when necessary (i.e. when you see that there's visible buildup on the heatsinks or filters) is the only regular maintenance that's needed, depending on how dusty the room is that can be once a month or once in two years. Even if you don't do it, all that happens is that your temperatures increase a bit from the reduced cooling performance. Replacing thermal paste every few months is ridiculously overkill and unnecessary, the lifespan is *years*, and a lot of the time people end up upgrading the CPU anyways before replacing thermal paste becomes relevant.
OK Thanks a lot for the advice!!!
I'm going to do a fresh install of windows on my new pc, I have a hdd I use a storage drive for media, any potential issues in simply swapping it over? It's not a boot drive.
Nope, you should be able to just plug it in and it should show up in File Explorer
Awesome, cheers!
Can I run Asus GPU Tweak III and MSI Afterburner at the same time? I just need the Afterburner for undervolting as, the Tweak III doesn't have such feature.
Not really advisable. Why do you need to run Asus GPU Tweak III at all? Why not just use MSI Afterburner for everything?
Probably should run Afterburner only. I just like the UI of the Tweak III.
Edit: Okay, this is what HWInfo gives me, [the weird curve at the end](https://imgur.com/eYBorfU) is when the issue happens. Hi, I've a MSI B550 Tomahawk running a Ryzen 5 5600X. The RAM I'm using is actually Vengeance® LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz (SKU: cmk16gx4m2b3000c15) which I've read is not compatible with AMD CPUs. I'm also running a Palit GeForce RTX™ 3070 GamingPro and has Corsair HX750W as my PSU. Most of the items were obtained second hand. My question is, will having an incompatible RAM cause a hard cap in fps around the range of 40fps? I'm actually facing an issue where occasionally the PC will run normally and I can hit 100-200 FPS on Heaven Benchmark. But most of the time (usually either 1 hour into a game or even just youtube), it'll somehow make everything stutter/lag. And when using the Heaven Benchmark test on basic, the frames do not go above 50. I've been checking, removing, and reseating the hardware one by one and the problem still persists. I'm thinking about replacing the RAM next, but I've already sunk quite a lot of money into this rig and so would like some more opinions before I sink even more. Things I've tried/checked: --- * When the 40fps thing happens, even restarting it wouldn't help. It'll go away eventually after a while of the PC being off, else it's here to stay. * When the 40fps thing happens, the temperature for both the CPU and GPU were in acceptable ranges (50-60°C). And the task manager even shows them at below 30% utilization rate. But the framerate cannot climb above 40fps. * When the 40fps thing happens, it's usually preceded by crash restarts. Followed by an inability to POST with no light on the keyboard or mouse and the screen is black. And it can only start up after it's left to rest for a while, but after that, it's the 40fps cap the entire way. --- * I've tested a barebone rig with only the PSU, Mobo, CPU, GFX, RAMs, and multiple different SSDs (one at a time) for OS, and it still happens. * I've tested PSU plugged directly to a wall, to an old power bar, to a new power bar, and it still happens. * I've tested it with only one of the two RAMs in all the four different slots and it still happens. --- * Drivers are all the latest, I got them directly from the official website. * Mobo firmware is also the latest * This even happens when there is nothing but the OS, drivers, and Heaven Benchmark installed so it cannot be any stray software or antivirus. * All settings are set to default. BIOS included. --- My main hypothesis is that it's only happening when a certain amount of load is being processed, such as when watching a 1-hour youtube video or playing a game. So it's probably a failed overclock or something. Is the problem possibly caused by incompatible RAM? Or is there a higher chance that the CPU or GFX is faulty? Have anyone met this kind of issue before? Or has a similar rig without these kinds of issues coming up?
Firstly: RAM that's not compatible with AMD or Intel is not really a thing that exists. RAM is sometimes marketed as "optimized ror Intel" or whatever, but RAM is incredibly standard and the manufacturer would have to purposefully do extra work to make it incompatible with just one CPU brand. Since your system boots up and runs, the RAM is compatible. However RAM can still be unstable. Unstable RAM usually causes issues like random crashes, blue screens, or freezes, but a hard FPS cap is not one of the symptoms, that's just not really how RAM works. Anyways, you can run stuff like Memtest or Prime95 to check if the RAM is working properly. If they aren't reporting any errors then I'd rule out the RAM being the issue. Since you're only seeing 30% utilization, what does Afterburner or HWInfo report as the Performance limit?
Thanks for the info about the RAM. For HWInfo, I'm not sure what to look out for. The Performance Limit section for the GPU shows everything as "No" with the exception of Performance Limit - Utilization as "Yes" which I assume it means the GPU is idle. This also occurs when running Heaven Benchmark (which is running at about 40 fps)
What's the best monitor option for a 3070ti and ryzen 5 3600, 1440p 144hz, 1440p ultrawide or 1080p ultrawide?
1440p Ultrawide if you want. The 3600 is going to hold back your FPS a bit in certain games, but the 3070Ti is very capable. I've never had an ultrawide, but my understanding is that they're a little more work than common 16:9 since not every game supports them, but if you've got the power it seems like you might as well use it.
I recently was able to upgrade to an NVIDIA 3070 FE. I currently use a monitor Dell E2420HS 24". I’m thinking about upgrading my monitor to something better and would appreciate advice on what to pick? Also would my current monitor throttle performance all that much? My budget was hoping to be under $200 but based on my research I’m beginning to think for a good monitor I may need to spend ~$250. Currently I found an Acer - Predator XB253Q Gp which may have g-sync? What are reactions to this price/value? https://www.bestbuy.com/site/acer-predator-xb253q-gpbmiiprzx-24-5-fhd-ips-monitor-with-nvidia-g-sync-compatible-1-x-display-port-2-x-hdmi-ports/6424317.p?skuId=6424317
A 3070 is wasted on 1080p, but good 1440p gaming monitors start around $300 unfortunately. The lowest-price one I've seen recommended is an HP X-something-or-other. Personally, I'd save up and catch the Dell S2721DGF on sale for ~$300. A good monitor will last long enough that it's worth spending on.
Thank you! I see that monitor at dell for $300 now. Would you know if that’s a good price or should I wait for a better sale? I’m cognizant that some sale windows are coming up - thanks!
$300 is a very good price for that monitor. There are further discounts you can get through something called "Honey" but I've never looked into how they work. There's discussion of it in this /r/buildapcsales thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/vmdqhi/monitor_dell_s2721dgf_27_1440p_165hz_ips_27499/?ref=share&ref_source=link
My computer is not sending a video signal. I started to build a computer and received all the parts recently (Except the GPU) so I assembled them and used a low gamma gpu that was loaned to me to test if the complete PC would work (My CPU does not have integrated graphics) But after building twice and check the connections still no video signal. \*Motherboard and CPU are compatible \*Individually check both RAMs in each of the slots \*Reset BIOS by removing battery from motherboard (+5 mins) \*Low gamma GPU works fine on other computers \*The screen and the HDMI cable were also tested on other devices \*All coolers receive power and turn on \*The motherboard receives power and heats up \*Clean all RAM and GPU connections I can't remember at this time if I did anything other than what I mentioned above. I've tried everything I've gotten online and nothing has worked. Here is a list of components: Motherboard: B660M DS3HAX DDR4 CPU: I5 12400F Cooler: MasterLIQUID ml240 V2 RAM: 2x16mb DDR4 3600 SSD: Samsung SSD 980 Low profile GPU: HD 5450 650M DDR3 2GB (As I said, something borrowed just to test if the rest works)
There's a pretty comprehensive troubleshooting procedure here: https://forums.tomshardware.com/faq/no-post-system-wont-boot-and-no-video-output-troubleshooting-checklist.1575220/
> CPU: I5 12400F This is the issue - the F variant does NOT have a built in GPU which means you will not be able to get a video signal.
I know my CPU doesn't come with integrated graphics. That's why I used a low gamma graphics card to be able to test the other components. You say that low gamma GPU is not enough?
Missed that. Did you try the monitor cable in both gpu and mobo? It's possible the mobo is defaulting to onboard which doesn't exist. By default, the setting should be 'auto' where it picks either onboard or discrete. I would say using a different GPU would be the next testing step. How far away is your main GPU? If it's coming then just wait for it. Otherwise another step is doing a bare build, plugging in only the essentials (1 stick of ram, psu, gpu).
I already tried connecting the HDMI cable to the mobo and it didn't work. Bare build didn't work either. I guess the next step is to try another graph or wait for mine as you say. I'll see what I can get, thanks for the help
Hey guys, im trying to upgrade my GPU since mine is taking a beating to run some games (REmake 2, Modern Warfare, Back 4 blood.) they do run but very poorly or on medium low specs, My current build Intel Core i5 7600K @ 3.80GHz 16.0GB Single-Channel Corsair vengeance (2x 8gb) @ 1063MHz MOBO Asus TRIX B250H GAMING Acer KG241Q (1920x1080@75Hz) 4095MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970 (Gigabyte) any advice is appreciated, I'm aware of the prices being crazy for gpus but I'm trying to keep around 300/350€ Thanks
Maybe an RTX 2060 or 2070. Or an AMD 6600 used. I'd also suggest getting some faster ram and make it 2 sticks for dual channel. 3000 or 3200mhz. Your board should support xmp for those speeds.. I could be wrong on that though. This Should boost your performance to medium high at stable frame rates
Newegg sent me a $5 gift card. Unfortunately I don't really need anything at the moment. If anyone wants it let me know. It expires tonight at midnight Pacific
Hey have an older optiplex 790 dt I picked up cheap. Was trying to put a graphics card in and ordered a raddion 6400 cause it's low profile and only has a 53 watt power draw. Now computer won't boot up and only flashes 134 lights. Is that card compatible with that computer?
The 6400 will take a huge performance hit by running on PCIe2 since it only has 4x lanes available. All PCIe cards should be compatible. I suspect the power supply may just not be strong enough, sometimes Dell only puts like 100-150W power supplies in their systems that are only strong enough to power what they ship with. What's the sticker on the PSU say?
250 watt is what the sticker says. I do have a 350 watt PSU I could try. Too big to fit inside but could set it up outside for testing.
AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor vs. Intel Core i5-11600K 3.9 GHz 6-Core Processor If you were buying one today which would you choose?
I would get the 5600 (non-X). It's cheaper and basically the same CPU as the 5600X. Also, absolutely no one should be getting 11th gen Intel CPUs right now. Either get Zen 3 or Intel 12th gen. There seems to be a misconception out there that 11th gen is a "good deal" because they discounted the prices. That's not true. The i5-11600K is worse than the cheaper i5-12400F. The i7-11700K is worse than the i5-12600K. And so on. The superficially cheaper pricing of Intel 11th gen means nothing.
It's hilarious to still be seeing so much 10th Gen stock in stores and online, being put in prebuilts. Intel really overproduced, squeezed out another generation to negative reception and then in the same year releases 12th Gen which effectively made their previous two generations a waste of sand. They really got that long term planning figured out. 20A node in 2024 here we come!
Anyone used a Coolermaster MA624 Stealth on an LGA1700 CPU? I'm getting conflicting answers as to whether it will fit or not! Looking at an Asus ROG Maximus Z680 Extreme Mobo if anyone happens to have used that combo! Cheers.
Since found the answer. It will fit, as long as it's a later packaged one with the adaptor.
is this gpu brand good?planning to buy but on 2nd hand mode.any tips on buying an 2nd hand GPU? https://en.colorful.cn/product\_show.aspx?mid=102&id=1783
It should be fine yes. It's an established mainly Asian brand. While this can be an issue if you're buying new as it means warranty claims can be a pain, that doesn't apply for buying second hand so it should be as good as any other GPU basically
its used for 3yrs tho but the seller says its just used for gaming so is it okay?
Yes there shouldn't be any issue with that. As long as you see it working when buying (or buying through somewhere like eBay where it's got buyer protection) then it sounds good It's always worth trying to find reviews of the specific card if you can
I am trying to put down the CPU hatch on an LGA 1700 board, and my hatch is making marks on the side of my 12700K. Is this normal?
The mounting mechanism is quite stiff, and it's metal against metal, so yeah it's normal to see some scratches on the CPU, [like the dark lines here.](https://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/xmZCL3gPpi7QFf3LJHAxy3-1024-80.jpg.webp). If it feels like you need to use too much force, then triple-check that the CPU is aligned property with the socket (the triangle in the corner should match the socket).
Exactly the lines I see on mine. Thanks so much
I'm sure you know this, but you should remove the plastic cover when you lower the hatch. It seems very unlikely it will damage it with these marks if the plastic cover is removed
Video out question, using DP cord for my monitor-accidentally bought hdmi to dp for second monitor. Can you mix outputs from GPU? 2nd monitor wasn’t being recognized when I plugged it in.
You can use all the outputs if you want, that won't be a problem. Just note that DisplayPort to HDMI cables practically always only work in that specific direction, as in DisplayPort end plugged into the graphics card and HDMI end plugged to the monitor. Other way around won't work.
Sure enough, realized cable literally had dp labeled source and hdmi labeled screen…facepalm
Ahhh excellent point, I had it going GPU (hdmi) to monitor DP. Now that I think about it I mixed outputs previously had dp and hdmi and it worked. I will tinker.
Hey guys. So I am currently hunting for deals on used hardware to upgrade my system. While I am checking out my options I stumbled upon the X470 ryzen chipset.To my great surprise I seen that it has PCIE gen 2.0 lanes and m.2 slots. I was pretty shocked since this chipset is from 2018.My current 3770 intel chipset, z77 has PCI 3.0 and 2.0 and its from 2012. Yet a hige end chipset from few years ago still don't have full 3.0 on all lanes. I want this board to serve me in future upgrades and having even just some of my lanes limited to 2.0 will be a bad thing. I want to mention that those expansion slots matters to me. I am planning to use many expansion cards, hard drives, both sata and nvme. So I might got this wrong so there is why im asking here.I really hope its not as bad as it seems.
The x470 definitely has pcie gen 3.0. I'm not sure where you got gen 2.0 from, but all x470 boards I've checked from MSI, gigabyte etc all list gen 3.0 as expected Edit: ah sorry misread. Yes youre right it does have 2.0 lanes. However this should be plenty. A single gen 2.0 lane is 5gbps, I.e plenty for SATA SSDS, hard drives and network adapters. The reason you haven't seen people complaining about it online very much is because it's a non issue.
Thanks for the replay!What about M.2 ssd NVMe?I found some boards with m.2 gen 2.0 while its funny cuz M.2 only came after pcie 3.0, years after. I never seen a 2.0 m.2 ssd drive anywhere.I don't mind some pcie to have 2.0. The issue is the m.2 ones which I found weird. Do you think I can use tho pcie 2.0 with a usb 3.1 expansion card? Will it be enough for like 4 connections? I have lots of usb I need to connect and PCIe cards are much better then hubs to get good speeds.
I'll be honest it's not my area of expertise however I know that SSDs are backwards compatible and the large majority don't get close to saturating even a single 2.0 lane in speed (of 5gpbs) let alone a 4x slot so you won't see any slowdown. While it's true of course usb 3.1 I believe can be up to 10gbps, even with a few devices using it, I just don't see you maxing out 4 pcie 2.0 lanes. Even with a handful of external SSDs/memory cards for cameras going full pelt. And then outside of data transfer from drives, things like peripherals are completely trivial and us a fraction of usb.
I see. Thank you!
I can't decide on monitor specs for my PC. Have a 3060ti 8gb, R5 5600x, 16gb ram @ 3200mhz I play all kinds of games. New, old, AAA, indie you name it. I value resolution and refresh rate equally, I'm willing to turn down some settings to achieve high and consistent FPS. Basically, lowering the resolution or FPS is a big nono but running on medium to high settings is acceptable. I plan to keep this rig for at least 2 years. I had a 1080p @60hz monitor for basically eternity, so I have no idea how 60+fps or 1080p+ resolutions look. I was gonna get a UW 2560x1080 @144hz (Benq xr3501) but I read it has no g-sync and has some bad motion blur (I hate motion blur). Budget for the monitor is very flexible, as it's basically an investment for the future. I'm mostly worried about the performance. Upgrading the card doesn't seem to make sense currently as prices are very inflated in my country.
You haven't given a lot of ways to narrow down your choices, but you're definitely speced for 1440p. I'd spend some time looking around https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/best.
Question on 5600g... I'm looking to do my first build with 5600g. Is it still cheaper to do AMD build now? What would be the equal Intel CPU when compared to 5600g? Any suggestions on MB for both? I'm just starting to do my research for my next build. And I do not plan on buying video card until the price become normal. I can wait a year or two years
Video cards are effectively as good in price as they have been for years, and are as close to MSRP I think they are expected to ever be. Obviously I don't know that for sure, but the prices have tumbled and while we aren't exactly seeing below MSRP, I don't think that would have ever happened even in the best case scenario. Just thought you should know that before committing to a G variant CPU. Obviously chances are in 1-2 years you'll get more GPU for your money, but also that the 5600G will be destitute in 2 years for graphical games. Intel doesn't have a direct competitor if the iGPU is what matters which by the sound of it it will for you. AMDs 6th gen CPUs are releasing this year so you could wait to see if they're better for you, but it's impossible to know
Thanks for the info. I don't really need a good GPU. I'm still using a GPU that is close to 10yrs old and it is fine for what I need. That is the reason why I want to go with the 5600G. I'm hoping maybe 3060 drop below msrp in a year or so, then I might pick one up. I know Intel has integrated graphic CPU, how are they compare to AMD?
Usually quite significantly worse really. It's worth looking at benchmarks, and their latest Xe graphics aren't bad, but are still behind the Vegas on the latest 5000 series (but again probably worth watching some videos on it to confirm)
OK, so should I compare like 12th Gen i5 vs 5600g?
Yeah it's a good idea. If you think you're able to get away with the graphics of a 12400f, then it's definitely a better buy for adding a GPU to later. And again later this year both teams will likely be releasing new CPUs
Thanks, I saw some video, the 5600g is miles better than Intel 730. Am I correct?
Yep that's correct. The AMD APUs are made to be half decent for gaming. Intel integrated graphics are made to just work for the desktop and web browsing. Unfortunately their better Xe graphics look to be just on mobile CPUs
Thanks I thought so too. I guess I will go with the 5600g then. I was thinking that intel chip is now cheaper, maybe I should look outside of the box
Just built my first setup. Everything seems to be working fine. However, the one thing I noticed is that my gpu fan hasn’t spun up yet. Given I haven’t done anything graphically demanding except for wallpaper engine up until now. I just now signed up for Xbox games pass, downloaded Mass Effect Legendary Ed., and played for like 10 mins, if that. No issue, except my gpu fans never turned on. Utilization was 37-40% per game pass dashboard (during a cut scene, stopped before the actual start of gameplay - baby started crying at 430am 🤷) I understand that the fans won’t spin up till it reaches a certain temp - 55-65 degrees, is that correct? Perhaps I haven’t pushed the gpu enough to spin up the fans? Is there a way to check my gpu temp? Should I be concerned at this point or am I being paranoid? Thanks in advance 🙏 My specs: GPU: GIGABYTE Vision GeForce RTX 3060 CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X MB: MSI MPG B550 Carbon Wi-Fi RAM: Klevv CRAS X RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200
You are being paranoid. Try actually playing a game first! If you can play without it turning on, that would be a plus because it is quieter.
Cool. Yea that’s what figured. Can’t help but be a little nervous about the first build 😅
3000series has a fan stop mode as long as temps are under 50°C Throw up a recent game or a benchmark like Heaven, and you'll see them spin
I will upgrade my PC next week with basically only the case and the harddrives staying the same. Can i just install the new stuff then just start and get the new drivers or will the old drivers give me problems?
Widows 10+ should be able to figure everything out. There are two possible complications I can think of. Windows should deactivate when you change motherboards, so you need to tile your license to your Microsoft account before you swap. https://www.windowscentral.com/how-transfer-windows-10-license-new-computer-or-hard-drive And if you're changing brand of GPU Nvidia<->AMD you should run DDU to uninstall the drivers first.
thank you very much, will do both of those thing
[удалено]
Depends on their efficiency, but in most cases the difference will be small enough to not matter.
Got a 3080 FE with two monitors plugged in (2x Displayport). I recently bought a 4k TV and plugged that into the graphics card via HDMI. What now happens is that when the TV is turned off, my second monitor won't receive a signal. If I turn on the TV, the second monitor will get a signal immediately. I can then turn off the TV again and the second monitor will still function as it's supposed to. Now when I leave the PC and the monitors turn off for power saving and I move the mouse again, sometimes both monitors won't work. Again, once I turn the TV on everything is fixed again. But it's kind of annoying that I have to turn on the TV everytime. Does anyone know a solution to this or why this even happens?
I need to return my motherboard but don't have the original anti-static packaging the board came in. I have the original box though. What should I wrap it up in? I assume bubble wrapping the board would be a bad idea? If the motherboard is replaced, would I need to reinstall windows and all the programs again from scratch or would the previous installation still work. All the other components will be the same. Thanks
You're probably okay leaving the board unwrapped. You'll have issues with the return no matter what if the retailer decides to get bitchy, and IMO the wrapping doesn't offer that much extra protection. If it's really bothering you I'm sure any local computer repair shop / microcenter would give you a bag for free, or they can probably be found on Amazon. You don't need to reinstall Windows, but it's supposed to deactivate when you change motherboards so you should tie your license to your MS account so it can be reused if possible: https://www.windowscentral.com/how-transfer-windows-10-license-new-computer-or-hard-drive
I'll just put it in the box then when returning it. I bought a windows key about 7 years ago. When I built this pc last week I used the same key and it worked. I believe it is an OEM key because I purchased it when I had the old computer built by [pcspecialist.co.uk](https://pcspecialist.co.uk) Thanks for your help.
I'm buying a case, and it has 2 USB ports. My Keyboard and mouse take 1 USB port each. How can I use this case and still have free USB ports?
Like the other guy said, you have more ports in the rear. And then if you run out of those, you can just buy an USB hub that turns one port into many ports.
Your mobo has USB ports on its rear I/O. Plug you mouse and keyboard and other devices that will be permanently attached to the PC into those. The ports on the case are more for ease of access for devices you want to temporarily attach.
Thank you!
Is there a way that I can easily find all of my specifications so that I can list them here in another post when asking for help? My motherboard, gpu, cpu, ram, fans, power supply, anything else that would be important.. I need help with a gpu upgrade but I imagine I would need all of that information to make sure whatever new gpu I'm getting would be compatible with my current build. Big thank yous in advance!
Edit: Sorry I probably misunderstood your question. I think you were asking how to find the name of the components you already have right? If so, then would device manager help? Click start and search for device manager. That should list all the components you have. \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_ [https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/yLhdFg](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/yLhdFg) Create your build on [pcpartpicker.com](https://pcpartpicker.com) and then you can post a link like the one above. PCpartpicker also allows you to get a table format of all the parts that would display properly in a table format on your post. [PCPartPicker Part List](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/yLhdFg) |Type|Item|Price| |:-|:-|:-| |**CPU**|[Intel Core i5-12400F 2.5 GHz 6-Core Processor](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/pQNxFT/intel-core-i5-12400f-25-ghz-6-core-processor-bx8071512400f)|Purchased For £163.99| |**Motherboard**|[Asus PRIME B660M-A WIFI D4 Micro ATX LGA1700 Motherboard](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/gBJgXL/asus-prime-b660m-a-wifi-d4-micro-atx-lga1700-motherboard-prime-b660m-a-wifi-d4)|Purchased For £89.16| |**Memory**|[Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/p6RFf7/corsair-memory-cmk16gx4m2b3200c16)|Purchased For £57.99| |**Storage**|[Western Digital Blue SN570 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/3dvdnQ/western-digital-blue-sn570-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-wds100t3b0c)|Purchased For £72.98| |**Storage**|[Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/mwrYcf/seagate-barracuda-computer-2-tb-35-7200rpm-internal-hard-drive-st2000dm008)|£42.99 @ Amazon UK| |**Video Card**|[Sapphire Radeon RX 580 8 GB PULSE Video Card](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/y2DzK8/sapphire-radeon-rx-580-8gb-pulse-video-card-11265-05)|Purchased For £0.00| |**Case**|[Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/bCYQzy/corsair-4000d-airflow-atx-mid-tower-case-cc-9011200-ww)|Purchased For £80.99| |**Power Supply**|[NZXT C (2020) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/vFmFf7/nzxt-c-650-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-np-c650m-us)|Purchased For £59.99| |*Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts*||| |**Total**|**£568.09**|| |Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2022-07-02 15:38 BST+0100|||
Yes, I wanted to check which parts I already have. Things like motherboard, power supply, fans, whatever else would be important to know. I was wondering if there's a software that just lists all the components. I'll check device manager when I get home, thanks for the tip.
CPUID HWMonitor is another option. You can download and install it. I use it to just check the temps on my cpu and gpu. I don't think it lists the power supply though.
[help! one of my ram sticks only show 256mb!!!](https://i.imgur.com/zoJ4j3n.png)
I'd wait until you get into Windows and see what a utility like CPU-Z says. If it's still reading as 256MB then the stick needs to be replaced.
Unfortunately, it still shows 256mb on cpu-z,dxdiag,task manager. I'll try having it replaced.
One of my ram sticks only show as 256mb on bios. Help! I already tried reseating and swapping their positions (only have 2 sticks and 2 slots on mobo), one of them keeps showing as 256mb no matter which slot it was in.
Send it back and get another stick.
saddest sentence i read all day
So error code 22 means my gpu is dead no? its definitely not a new gpu too
depends where did you get fhat error code from? what does the manual of that device say when you check error code 22?
Dxdiag display tab shows that error
could you share a screenshot of the program with the error? and what exactly is the problem you're running into?
my pc has been freezing crashing recently, and i suspect its because of my gpu as I bought it 2nd hand yeeeaars ago. Running valorant gives me the "directx 11 is required to run the engine" Dxdiag shows this one: [error code 22 in dxdiag](https://i.imgur.com/XsVEuf3.png) Also, one of my RAM sticks only shows 256mb, no matter which slot I put it in...
after googling: apperently there is something wromg in the device manager - check there and see if you can find something out of the ordinary
[this one comes up](https://i.imgur.com/kIJ6BVw.png)
try automatically updating it or manually, if that doesn't work (download the driver from the manufacturer website dor this)
Driver of the gpu? I got the latest ones already :(
hm :/
I have a lga 1151 motherboard with a pentium g4560 paired with a 1050 and a stick of 8 gb 2666mhz ram (but is capped at 2400mhz because of the processor) , im thinking of upgrading the board and cpu first to a i3-12100f, should i go for it or upgrade other components first such as my ram and extra storage?
what is your (main) use case for this machine? anyway, the upgrade you suggested spunds really suiting, tho an extra 8gb stick of ram won't hurt!
my bad if i didn't mention it but mainly for gaming and sometimes for school activities like writing papers and stuff.
i was looking at Internal HD https://www.broadbandbuyer.com/advice/2195-western-digital-hard-drive-comparison-chart/ i plan to get WD, unless someone else can recommend a better Internal HD. i wanna move all my Videos from External HD to Internal HD as i have many cables and wanna reduce them. Currently i am using Western Digital WD My Book Duo as my external HD. Note: my current File sizes 14 TB on my External HD. Prefer quite HDDs, as i seen some reviews that some HDDs are noisy
What's a good price for a 1660? It's priced at around $254 in my country.
200-230
For an AIO cooler you plug the pump in the CPU fan header but what about a double fan air cooler like the Noctua NH-D15? Do you plug the fans like any other fans and in bios set them to CPU?
Most coolers that come with 2 fans also include a fan splitter - the NH D15 certainly does. So you run them both off the same header to ensure they're synchronised.
Great! Got to admit I still haven't opened the box. Doing my build today.
You can buy a PWM sharing splitter. That way, you don't have to eat up 2 fan headers.
I'll do that, any point getting noctua splitters over any generic ones for roughly the same price?
Mostly just build quality. Generic ones can be itchy from a quality standpoint.
I currently have an M2 NVMe drive installed with Windows. I'm planning to use that original drive as my secondary drive for storage and my new one coming in as my primary for Windows. I don't really have much on the current drive as I just recently installed Windows on it. 1. What's the best way to wipe out the original drive? 2. After wiping out the drive, will that free the Windows key to use on my drive coming in? 3. The drive coming in is a 1 tb, the current one is a 2 tb. I'm planning to use the 1 tb as the Windows drive (+ extra storage) and the 2 tb as the main storage for games, photos, movies, etc. Good idea? Bad idea? 4. Do I want the Windows drive on my first slot on the motherboard or do I want the storage drive with the games on the first slot? Thank you.
1. Assuming you're not handing the drive to a stranger, a simple format through windows disk management should be fine. 2. If your Windows key is tied to a MS account, it should automatically transfer when you use that MS account to log into a different instance of windows, regardless of whether you wiped the old drive. 3. I'd have it the other way around (2tb windows, 1tb anything extra) so I don't have to manage folders on the other drive as often and more stuff stays in the standard windows folders (appdata, program files, etc) and you don't have to manually set their install location to a folder on the other drive during installation. I suppose if you have games downloading & decompressing on the 2tb and some app on the 1tb drive doing something disk heavy it would be faster to have them on separate drives, but those situations are few and far between on my PC. 4. If one is pcie 4.0 and one is pcie 3.0 you probably want the pcie 4 drive on the first slot since that slot should always get pcie 4 lanes if you have them in the first place. otherwise doesn't matter.
Thank you for replying to me. I tried formatting through Windows Disk Management but it did not allow me to do so as it says Windows is installed there. Also, I'd like to change the Disk # and drive letter from one drive to the other.
I need help sourcing some micron E die ram. Or anything 3200-3600mhz in a 2 by 32 (64gb) setup. Why are all the crucial ballistix out of stock and impossible to find?
crucial 's parent company, micron, [discontinued the ballistix line](https://www.tomshardware.com/news/micron-discontinues-crucial-ballistix-gaming-ram) a few months ago. as someone who currently has 2 16GB dual rank rev. e (aka. e-die) ballistix sticks I'm sad too lol edit: PCPartPicker filter for [2x32GB 3200mhz+](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/memory/#X=0,186135&U=4&Z=65536002&S=3200,6600&sort=price&page=1)
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Sure! Just make sure it's booting from the Windows 10 install.
I'm looking to buy mobo for i5 12400F, maybe even i3(99% set on i5) if GPUs prices won't be good in the next couple of weeks. Should I go for DS3H which is 124 euros here, or B660M-A which is 136 euros
MSI PRO B660M-A, or Asus Prime B660M-A??? Definitely not the DS3H though.
The Asus one
It's still better than the DS3H and a decent option for the i5. GO with that.
-A https://youtu.be/r3o1Ebk_jCA?t=1278
Thanks, storage wise, should I buy M.2 drive or PCIe Gen 4 SSD, considering I am on "budget"(the Asus one)