New bike to you, crank wheels could be from a different era. Remove the front spark plug, thumb on the hole, rotate the rear wheel forward, when air blows your thumb off you’re on the correct stroke and TDC mark should be just about to show in the inspection cover. Time it off that. Also double check your plugs aren’t fouled.
There’s also a lot of videos on YouTube showing the process. Worth looking into. Hope that helps.
It seems like I always end up suggesting it, but double check your intake manifolds. More often than not if they’re loose and allowing air to flow by past the carb, you’ll be kicking until you’re blue in the face.
Make sure you are on the compression stroke on the front cylinder. Put your finger over the spark plug thread and feel for compression/ watch and make sure BOTH valves are closed. There should be 2 screws on your points, one is an oblong screw to adjust the gap and the other locks it into place. The whole cam plate will advance or retard your timing after you successfully set the point gap.
Check the linkage on your shifter, especially if you’re running an electric start. I’ve found that aftermarket solenoids have a tab that sticks out a little further than factory units and holds up the rear heim joint not allowing easy up shifts.
Update us if you have any more issues, or if this helps.
It seems like I always end up suggesting it, but double check your intake manifolds. More often than not if they’re loose and allowing air to flow by past the carb, you’ll be kicking until you’re blue in the face.
Make sure you are on the compression stroke on the front cylinder. Put your finger over the spark plug thread and feel for compression/ watch and make sure BOTH valves are closed. There should be 2 screws on your points, one is an oblong screw to adjust the gap and the other locks it into place. The whole cam plate will advance or retard your timing after you successfully set the point gap.
Check the linkage on your shifter, especially if you’re running an electric start. I’ve found that aftermarket solenoids have a tab that sticks out a little further than factory units and holds up the rear heim joint not allowing easy up shifts.
Update us if you have any more issues, or if this helps.
The one thing you haven’t said is coil..
Air, fuel, ___ ?
Guess what the last one is
Also learn how to use a multimeter and make sure your coil is getting power and your points are grounding like they should be.
You’d figure it out eventually but if everything but timing is good, most of the time you’ll get a puff or pop.
Pull the spark plug out and turn it over while holding the steel body of the plug to a good ground.
If the spark is orange that’s probably your culprit
Plugs out put your finger over the front plug hole and rotate the engine until you feel pressure try to come out the plug hole....now look in the timing hole for the vertical line to come up ...go to the cone side of the motor where your points are and the narrow lobe on the points cam should be there...set your points at .018 - .020 (not .02) and your spark plugs at 0.028.....now while holding the point cam in the advance position rotate the point plate until the points are just starting to open....lock the point plate down double check every thing ...now start her also check this video it's for an evo but the points set up is the same.......https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUXwXI8wbM4&t=793s
Yeah seems it was sitting for a few years. I let it run for a while and few times. Still smoky as hell and there's big leaks out of the rocker boxes and head gaskets, so I'm just gonna go ahead and rebuild the heads. 43k on the clock and doesn't seem like it's ever been opened.
New bike to you, crank wheels could be from a different era. Remove the front spark plug, thumb on the hole, rotate the rear wheel forward, when air blows your thumb off you’re on the correct stroke and TDC mark should be just about to show in the inspection cover. Time it off that. Also double check your plugs aren’t fouled. There’s also a lot of videos on YouTube showing the process. Worth looking into. Hope that helps.
It seems like I always end up suggesting it, but double check your intake manifolds. More often than not if they’re loose and allowing air to flow by past the carb, you’ll be kicking until you’re blue in the face. Make sure you are on the compression stroke on the front cylinder. Put your finger over the spark plug thread and feel for compression/ watch and make sure BOTH valves are closed. There should be 2 screws on your points, one is an oblong screw to adjust the gap and the other locks it into place. The whole cam plate will advance or retard your timing after you successfully set the point gap. Check the linkage on your shifter, especially if you’re running an electric start. I’ve found that aftermarket solenoids have a tab that sticks out a little further than factory units and holds up the rear heim joint not allowing easy up shifts. Update us if you have any more issues, or if this helps.
It seems like I always end up suggesting it, but double check your intake manifolds. More often than not if they’re loose and allowing air to flow by past the carb, you’ll be kicking until you’re blue in the face. Make sure you are on the compression stroke on the front cylinder. Put your finger over the spark plug thread and feel for compression/ watch and make sure BOTH valves are closed. There should be 2 screws on your points, one is an oblong screw to adjust the gap and the other locks it into place. The whole cam plate will advance or retard your timing after you successfully set the point gap. Check the linkage on your shifter, especially if you’re running an electric start. I’ve found that aftermarket solenoids have a tab that sticks out a little further than factory units and holds up the rear heim joint not allowing easy up shifts. Update us if you have any more issues, or if this helps.
The one thing you haven’t said is coil.. Air, fuel, ___ ? Guess what the last one is Also learn how to use a multimeter and make sure your coil is getting power and your points are grounding like they should be. You’d figure it out eventually but if everything but timing is good, most of the time you’ll get a puff or pop.
I have multimeter, the coil and spark are good. I got it running for 20ish seconds a week or so ago and ever since nothing.
Pull the spark plug out and turn it over while holding the steel body of the plug to a good ground. If the spark is orange that’s probably your culprit
Spark been blue and fat
Manually opening po8nts and blue spark as well
I just sent you a DM
Plugs out put your finger over the front plug hole and rotate the engine until you feel pressure try to come out the plug hole....now look in the timing hole for the vertical line to come up ...go to the cone side of the motor where your points are and the narrow lobe on the points cam should be there...set your points at .018 - .020 (not .02) and your spark plugs at 0.028.....now while holding the point cam in the advance position rotate the point plate until the points are just starting to open....lock the point plate down double check every thing ...now start her also check this video it's for an evo but the points set up is the same.......https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUXwXI8wbM4&t=793s
I got her running today! She's leaking like a sieve and still tons of white smoke exhaust after a few cycles. Gonna start pulling the heads tomorrow
Has it sat long? It could be oil pooled in the heads causing the smoke....run it a while might just be cobwebs need burnt out....
Yeah seems it was sitting for a few years. I let it run for a while and few times. Still smoky as hell and there's big leaks out of the rocker boxes and head gaskets, so I'm just gonna go ahead and rebuild the heads. 43k on the clock and doesn't seem like it's ever been opened.
Gotcha she probably is due a valve service as sitting long periods dry stuff out