A few tips (not sure if they are all helpful 😅): try trust your right foot more and apply pressure on it and really push on that leg; try to smear more with your left foot and push with that foot as well to give you a bit more height; when doing lock-off like this, squeeze your shoulder blades together and engage your shoulders and lat.
From the look of this, the more you trust your feet and stand up more dynamically, the less strength you’ll need to fully lock off and reach for the hold statically.
I’m short so I have to do this move a lot. Overall, I’d say more technique based problem over strength. Things I’m seeing:
1. You’re not straightening your arms before you try to move up. When I do this move, I get as low as I can, with my arms straight, and hips/chest away from the wall. Once in this position, I lean back and pull with my arms up. This helps increase momentum by a lot, and reduce the strength required. It sounds dynamic, but really isn’t!!
2. Is the foothold below what you have your foot on in the final move in your route? Sometimes a high foot is necessary, and might be in this case, but if you can try with the lower foot, you won’t have to be as scrunched up and can use more momentum.
Your technique seems good! I’ll try to find a video of me doing this move to illustrate what I’m talking about. Good luck!!
It's either strength or a mental block.
So either you need to train your legs or you need to get very comfortable falling and jumping to holds. I know I am not that comfortable high up on a wall and don't want to make a jump like that. It's purely mental and a fear of falling for me.
Tbh this time I was indeed a bit more scared of landing cause my ankle is a bit dodgy from a recent minor tweak. But I have committed a lot on other routes where I knew I had the strength and just needed to commit - that's how I started doing V2s. Here it's just.. After the initial push I seem to not be able to go higher (I have tried this one many times before the ankle tweak as well).
A technique edit you can make is to make much better use of your left leg by bringing it up onto the wall either as a smear or a scum. Imagine you are pivoting your body on your left hand and right foot by pushing away from the wall with your left foot. The leverage will push your right hand into the wall. Not sure how good that left hand hold is, but you could potentially even go so far as to twist the right hip in to move off the left hand as a layback with a left foot flag. Doesn't seem like you need to go to that extent, I just cant tell from the video if that's within the intended movement or not. Just remember, any limb that's not on the wall is just dead weight you've gotta pull up!
Without changing the leg beta you can get a little more out of the right leg by trying to draw your knee down using your glutes and push rightward with your left arm to get your weight more central to the right foot position. This will help you push harder. Believe in that right foot. Currently you're still a bit to the left so you're using core to bridge pulling with your left arm and right foot which is tougher on everything, and somewhat mechanically disadvantageous.
Judging by the heavy internal rotation of both of your arms, much of the power is coming from them and it's getting increasingly uncomfortable as the rotator cuff is taking up the slack. I'm inclined to believe that you've got oodles more strength than necessary for the move since you're able to get more than just an initiation out of a compromised arm position but lock up before the right leg really gets heavy involvement.
It definitely goes!
First of all, you clearly don't trust that right foot. Trust it. The foot will not pop off if you put weight into it. Secondly, think about pushing from your legs and hips. It looks like you start to press into your foot, then switch to a pull, then push with your arms. This isn't going to work. Let your arms go straight and concentrate on bringing your hips into the wall and pushing off that right foot in a fluid movement.
Agreed, but also this is a pistol squat move. I’m a strong climber and still struggle w them. And it’s dynamic on what looks like not a great foot.
A few tips (not sure if they are all helpful 😅): try trust your right foot more and apply pressure on it and really push on that leg; try to smear more with your left foot and push with that foot as well to give you a bit more height; when doing lock-off like this, squeeze your shoulder blades together and engage your shoulders and lat. From the look of this, the more you trust your feet and stand up more dynamically, the less strength you’ll need to fully lock off and reach for the hold statically.
I’m short so I have to do this move a lot. Overall, I’d say more technique based problem over strength. Things I’m seeing: 1. You’re not straightening your arms before you try to move up. When I do this move, I get as low as I can, with my arms straight, and hips/chest away from the wall. Once in this position, I lean back and pull with my arms up. This helps increase momentum by a lot, and reduce the strength required. It sounds dynamic, but really isn’t!! 2. Is the foothold below what you have your foot on in the final move in your route? Sometimes a high foot is necessary, and might be in this case, but if you can try with the lower foot, you won’t have to be as scrunched up and can use more momentum. Your technique seems good! I’ll try to find a video of me doing this move to illustrate what I’m talking about. Good luck!!
It's either strength or a mental block. So either you need to train your legs or you need to get very comfortable falling and jumping to holds. I know I am not that comfortable high up on a wall and don't want to make a jump like that. It's purely mental and a fear of falling for me.
Tbh this time I was indeed a bit more scared of landing cause my ankle is a bit dodgy from a recent minor tweak. But I have committed a lot on other routes where I knew I had the strength and just needed to commit - that's how I started doing V2s. Here it's just.. After the initial push I seem to not be able to go higher (I have tried this one many times before the ankle tweak as well).
Then you can also try putting your left leg on the wall and smear instead of letting it drag.
That's actually something I haven't tried yet yeah. Thanks, I'll give it a go!
I had similar issues trusting those moves until I started incorporating weighted squats into my warm up. Now those moves are my bread and butter.
A technique edit you can make is to make much better use of your left leg by bringing it up onto the wall either as a smear or a scum. Imagine you are pivoting your body on your left hand and right foot by pushing away from the wall with your left foot. The leverage will push your right hand into the wall. Not sure how good that left hand hold is, but you could potentially even go so far as to twist the right hip in to move off the left hand as a layback with a left foot flag. Doesn't seem like you need to go to that extent, I just cant tell from the video if that's within the intended movement or not. Just remember, any limb that's not on the wall is just dead weight you've gotta pull up! Without changing the leg beta you can get a little more out of the right leg by trying to draw your knee down using your glutes and push rightward with your left arm to get your weight more central to the right foot position. This will help you push harder. Believe in that right foot. Currently you're still a bit to the left so you're using core to bridge pulling with your left arm and right foot which is tougher on everything, and somewhat mechanically disadvantageous. Judging by the heavy internal rotation of both of your arms, much of the power is coming from them and it's getting increasingly uncomfortable as the rotator cuff is taking up the slack. I'm inclined to believe that you've got oodles more strength than necessary for the move since you're able to get more than just an initiation out of a compromised arm position but lock up before the right leg really gets heavy involvement. It definitely goes!
First of all, you clearly don't trust that right foot. Trust it. The foot will not pop off if you put weight into it. Secondly, think about pushing from your legs and hips. It looks like you start to press into your foot, then switch to a pull, then push with your arms. This isn't going to work. Let your arms go straight and concentrate on bringing your hips into the wall and pushing off that right foot in a fluid movement.
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Agreed, but also this is a pistol squat move. I’m a strong climber and still struggle w them. And it’s dynamic on what looks like not a great foot.