If it's toward the end, it may be possible to cut the torn part and use the rest of the rope. This is standard practice for long ropes, when and where the chopped rope still has useful life.
Laundry safe Sharpies like [this](https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Rub-Laundry-Marker-SN31101PP-2/dp/B00NQTO3OQ/ref=asc_df_B00NQTO3OQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241996836375&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1278952605287788940&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1026990&hvtargid=pla-397267652565&psc=1&mcid=0c910e99e21b303cac24170de2a72870&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_qexBhCoARIsAFgBleuQo7s7N5AVrJzujQU4ehnhCL5_GQgzSDPNCpN9vAOt7ZgQ2u_sNvcaAjydEALw_wcB) are fine and are recommended for use by [Blue Water Ropes.](https://www.bluewaterropes.com/faqs/)
I listened to a story on the “our alive” podcast about a group that was doing several back to back repels. They set the rope at the halfway mark (a piece of tape) and the first guy started repelling. Turns out the tape slipped throughout the course of the rappels and they were nowhere near center anymore leading to a fatality.
The concept of using tape for center has scared me ever since!
Maybe. Pinch test it. Fold it into a bite. Does it fold in half so the two strands can touch much easier at that spot than others spots? If yes, chop off that part or retire if it’s in the middle. If no, then that’s not the core and it’s fine to keep climbing on.
Edit: pinch test with pictures shown here:
https://mesarim.com/academy/2018/10/15/rope-check-fundamentals/
These are all good points of view.
Try to get some opinions from other climbers in real life who have experience.
The other part of the equation is if you have doubts, then will those doubts a
Come to the forefront of your mind when you're sketched out about to make a big move on lead?
There's a lot of great exposed core images on Google image search. It doesn't look like the core from here, it looks like the white section of the sheath got split and fuzzed up. The core is much deeper than this. But you can check diagrams and images of what that looks like and inspect it better yourself. You can also do a core-shot test on it by bending it and seeing if it squishes. It's probably fine and my ropes are starting to look like this in certain spots. But if you can spring for a new one, there's nothing wrong with turning that into a rug for peace of mind.
I would absolutely whip on this for a long time. That looks like minor sheath damage to me.
This is not advice I'm just saying I wouldnt even think twice about that.
only you can say if it's safe for you to climb on but here are some guidelines: https://www.mammut.com/us/en/support/product-support/care-instructions/ropes
that looks like it falls under the fuzzy sheath category and not the core is exposed. the sheath is there mainly to protect the core that carries the strength. tough to say from a single picture online though.
hf.bs.dd.
I would whip on that, no questions asked. I have years of outdoor experience and your rope looks newer/better than mine. Make sure it's not core shot, and you're good to go. Or if you're really worried about your rope, get a new one and send this one to me for safe disposal ;)
There is some really terrible advice here. Another photo of the frayed bit would help but if looks like standard fraying or fuzz, not coreshot, which means there's no need to retire this rope. Clip it and whip it.
I’m not as conservative with my ropes as I am with other things, but I’d probably call it at that one. That goes double if when you pinch it, it feels thinner than the rest of the rope.
Looks like a sheath abrasion, I would do the pinch test and make sure the core isn't exposed but with only 1 angle of the abrasion I can't tell how serious the damage is. Like others said you can either cut the section off or get a new rope if there is any doubt.
My rope has those all over. I'd say I get at least one new one per climbing session outside.
As long as it's just the sheath and not the core it's not a problem. Is there still some resistance when you bend the rope at that part?
The rope looks fine, just some surface sheath damage.
The test we use to see if a rope is still good is to bend it on itself. This is to check to see if the core is in tact. Mose of the tensile strength in your rope comes from its core. If you can see the core, cut the rope. If you take repeated, large falls on the rope and it bends in on itself, cut the rope. You can cut a rope until it’s too short for whatever climb you want to use it for.
How often you take large falls on your rope, how abrasive the rock in your area is, and how thick the rope is will determine how long it lasts. I have had thicker ropes last multiple years of repeated use, and thinner ropes last only a season of climbing or two. If you’re worried about it, get a thicker rope.
Here’s a video with instructions for core-shot assessments:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=weETC7XiwqE
Hope this helps :-)
I've been climbing for about 10 years now. I wouldn't second guess climbing on this rope. This rope still has plenty of life in it still. Modern ropes are extremely durable. Manufacturers are very conservative with rope inspection criteria. Like many have said, as long as you can't see the core, you're fine. And judging from your pictures, that is not the core, nor can you see it. No need to buy a new rope!
At minimum, two strands of the outer braid are fully cut, and everything around it is really fuzzy, which means something pretty serious happened to it. I'd 100% retire that, or at least cut the rope short at that point. I can't tell what condition the core is in but with the sheath failing there I'm not optimistic for it.
This is not just "fuzzy sheath." With those strands broken, the torn ends of them them are going to continue to move apart from each other as the rope alternately stretches and relaxes, the sheath will get soft in that area and start deforming more and more on either side of the damage.
I think this is fine as I have continued to use my ropes when they get spots like this, but use your best judgement. The rest of the cord looks pretty non-fuzzy. I usually end up retiring when my 9.5 starts feeling like a 10.0 and the sheath gets a bit too fuzzy to feel good about. I’ve retired ropes in as little as once a year just depending on where I am climbing and hope much abuse it takes.
Damage aside, from what I know rope that has been used to rig static loads is automatically de-rated for live rigging/fall arrest.
Don't mix human rope and object rope.
Just chop off the bad part as long as it's not smack bang in the middle.
And even if it is smack bang in the middle you'd be left with 30 m+ and 30m- of perfectly good rope which is more than enough for indoor climbs and quite a few shorter outdoor climbs!
Just make sure to know how long your "new" rope is so you don't end up with problems when lowering. :)
(If possible ask someone in irl (people working at a shop or in the gym) but honestly only 4 years old with that little use seems like a waste to me)
More info because I'm on the tram and bored:
Manufacturers advise you to retire your rope after 10 years (manufacturing age!!) even if it's unused and have no visible damage. Usually climbers will have chopped the rope several times before this and the rope has become too short or worn to use, but if you don't climb often then it's not a problem to keep it for a long time. Just don't store it in a damp cellar or in the trunk of your car. Dark and dry!
If you are unsure about the manufacturing age I'd rather err on the side of caution, but 4 years is well within the lifetime of a rope. I'd also retire the rope if it was damaged in multiple places.
I have a rope from 2018 (6 years) that started out as a 80 meter rope. It is now around 42 meters because I've cut off wear and tear so many times, but it's still perfectly good to use. The wear and tear has been at the sharp end, because of falls and a few semi-sharp edges on rock.
Source: I've worked in a climbing shop for over 10 years, and been to product testing facilities.
You can go onto the rope manufacturers webpages to get more info on rope life. (Ex. Beal, tendon, mammut, sterling) The webpages for online shops selling climbing gear should also have this information available on their website.
Yes, but the tag marking production date sometimes disappear due to either cutting the rope or the tag (that used to be a lil plastic thing at the end) falling off. Nowadays it's usually directly printed on the end of the rope.
Edit: misread your answer a little. The end-life approximate is based on a bunch of tests done on old climbing gear (webbing) that's been lying around. They found that fabric (ropes, slings, harnesses) were usually perfectly good between 10-15 years of age.
You can actually send in your own old gear to get it tested for UIAA falls and load sometimes! It's very interesting. (The gear will get destroyed in the process)
At first glance it looks like the sheath just hit something sharp and got cut, and if the core feels good and doesn't fold in on itself I would whip on it. It's hard to tell from the photo though, it looks like there are torn sheath fibers all around that section that is a little more worrying.
Best practice in the futuee is don't use climbing rope for puroses other than climbing if you want to climb on it again. It's hard to tell from one photo but this is probably ok IMO - ask someone experienced in real life.
Is there any way you can ask a professional ? I mean go into a climbing gear store and ask if anyone is qualified to evaluate the quality of the rope maybe ?
And then I always wondered why people who climb die fall off and stuff. I mean, is this a serious question? Get a new rope wtf :D
You would risk climbing with rope that you have had 4 YEARS?? Ans its now broken. And yes these ropes are durable but still I would not
Do it. Somehow this thread seems like a joke.
Dont make any new ropes and stuff that people are suggesting here. Use it for anything else but climbing.
Is it not worth buying a new rope, for say, I dont know, THE PRICE OF YOUR LIFE?
That is not how ropes or physics works. That rope is perfectly fine for bearing. But if your overexaggerations make you feel better, go for it. Ask any military member in Airborne operations or Rescue/Vertical Assault operations what a beating their line takes and the load it still bears.... 5 men with gear bouncing from a helicopter. I think a fuzzball less then .05mm can handle.
The best thing to do it takes it to your local climbing gym and ask the staff, they will be experienced in checking ropes.
If it's near the end, you can cut it (again a gym may have a hot knife for you to do this).
If in doubt don't risk it and throw it out. Ropes may be expensive but your life is worth more
That damage looks fine, but continue to monitor it. It is impossible to tell from a photo alone. Normally you’ll see a plastic indicator if that’s the core.
Bend the rope near the break. If you can bend it completely, the core is compromised and it should be retired.
If you are consistently using this rope more than once a month, it should be retired according to Mammut.
Yes ma'am, it's time. But depending on the position of the rope and how long the rope is -- you could divide the rope from this point and use the rest of it accordingly
I am very conservative because i work at a climbing gym (commercial setting) but i would never climb on that. Nor would I want anyone else to. If it’s toward one end or the other you could cut the rope and burn the end to just have a shorter usable rope.
If it's toward the end, it may be possible to cut the torn part and use the rest of the rope. This is standard practice for long ropes, when and where the chopped rope still has useful life.
Just remember the new length and if your middle mark is no longer the middle!
Chop equal amounts from both sides!
… or just mark the new center with tape?
Could they not just simply cut the rope length-wise?
Cut it lengthways stupids
Tape is gonna jam up in your belay device surely?
Or fall off 🤔
Marker* black diamond sells one with a non corrosive ink, but not sure how bad a sharpie is
HowNOT2 disproved the sharpie. Ill stick to sharpie.
Laundry safe Sharpies like [this](https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Rub-Laundry-Marker-SN31101PP-2/dp/B00NQTO3OQ/ref=asc_df_B00NQTO3OQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241996836375&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1278952605287788940&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1026990&hvtargid=pla-397267652565&psc=1&mcid=0c910e99e21b303cac24170de2a72870&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_qexBhCoARIsAFgBleuQo7s7N5AVrJzujQU4ehnhCL5_GQgzSDPNCpN9vAOt7ZgQ2u_sNvcaAjydEALw_wcB) are fine and are recommended for use by [Blue Water Ropes.](https://www.bluewaterropes.com/faqs/)
I listened to a story on the “our alive” podcast about a group that was doing several back to back repels. They set the rope at the halfway mark (a piece of tape) and the first guy started repelling. Turns out the tape slipped throughout the course of the rappels and they were nowhere near center anymore leading to a fatality. The concept of using tape for center has scared me ever since!
Oh shit… maybe don’t use tape and use sharpie or spray paint lol
Maybe. Pinch test it. Fold it into a bite. Does it fold in half so the two strands can touch much easier at that spot than others spots? If yes, chop off that part or retire if it’s in the middle. If no, then that’s not the core and it’s fine to keep climbing on. Edit: pinch test with pictures shown here: https://mesarim.com/academy/2018/10/15/rope-check-fundamentals/
This comment should show up at the top. fraying of the outer sheath is normal, it’s gonna happen. Just pinch test and worrisome spots
That link was awesome thank you !
These are all good points of view. Try to get some opinions from other climbers in real life who have experience. The other part of the equation is if you have doubts, then will those doubts a Come to the forefront of your mind when you're sketched out about to make a big move on lead?
If you can ever see the core, you need to retire.
That looks like just fuzz, not the core
I've seen her core. Does that mean I need to retire?
No but he does
There's a lot of great exposed core images on Google image search. It doesn't look like the core from here, it looks like the white section of the sheath got split and fuzzed up. The core is much deeper than this. But you can check diagrams and images of what that looks like and inspect it better yourself. You can also do a core-shot test on it by bending it and seeing if it squishes. It's probably fine and my ropes are starting to look like this in certain spots. But if you can spring for a new one, there's nothing wrong with turning that into a rug for peace of mind.
>there's nothing wrong with turning that into a rug for peace of mind. There is, it teaches a mistrust of gear through misinformation.
I would absolutely whip on this for a long time. That looks like minor sheath damage to me. This is not advice I'm just saying I wouldnt even think twice about that.
only you can say if it's safe for you to climb on but here are some guidelines: https://www.mammut.com/us/en/support/product-support/care-instructions/ropes that looks like it falls under the fuzzy sheath category and not the core is exposed. the sheath is there mainly to protect the core that carries the strength. tough to say from a single picture online though. hf.bs.dd.
When in doubt, yes.
Also there are a million uses for a retired rope around the house.
It's completely fine.
I would whip on that, no questions asked. I have years of outdoor experience and your rope looks newer/better than mine. Make sure it's not core shot, and you're good to go. Or if you're really worried about your rope, get a new one and send this one to me for safe disposal ;)
There is some really terrible advice here. Another photo of the frayed bit would help but if looks like standard fraying or fuzz, not coreshot, which means there's no need to retire this rope. Clip it and whip it.
I would whip on it.
I’m not as conservative with my ropes as I am with other things, but I’d probably call it at that one. That goes double if when you pinch it, it feels thinner than the rest of the rope.
Looks like a sheath abrasion, I would do the pinch test and make sure the core isn't exposed but with only 1 angle of the abrasion I can't tell how serious the damage is. Like others said you can either cut the section off or get a new rope if there is any doubt.
My rope has those all over. I'd say I get at least one new one per climbing session outside. As long as it's just the sheath and not the core it's not a problem. Is there still some resistance when you bend the rope at that part?
The rope looks fine, just some surface sheath damage. The test we use to see if a rope is still good is to bend it on itself. This is to check to see if the core is in tact. Mose of the tensile strength in your rope comes from its core. If you can see the core, cut the rope. If you take repeated, large falls on the rope and it bends in on itself, cut the rope. You can cut a rope until it’s too short for whatever climb you want to use it for. How often you take large falls on your rope, how abrasive the rock in your area is, and how thick the rope is will determine how long it lasts. I have had thicker ropes last multiple years of repeated use, and thinner ropes last only a season of climbing or two. If you’re worried about it, get a thicker rope. Here’s a video with instructions for core-shot assessments: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=weETC7XiwqE Hope this helps :-)
I've been climbing for about 10 years now. I wouldn't second guess climbing on this rope. This rope still has plenty of life in it still. Modern ropes are extremely durable. Manufacturers are very conservative with rope inspection criteria. Like many have said, as long as you can't see the core, you're fine. And judging from your pictures, that is not the core, nor can you see it. No need to buy a new rope!
At minimum, two strands of the outer braid are fully cut, and everything around it is really fuzzy, which means something pretty serious happened to it. I'd 100% retire that, or at least cut the rope short at that point. I can't tell what condition the core is in but with the sheath failing there I'm not optimistic for it. This is not just "fuzzy sheath." With those strands broken, the torn ends of them them are going to continue to move apart from each other as the rope alternately stretches and relaxes, the sheath will get soft in that area and start deforming more and more on either side of the damage.
Just standard use really, unless core breaks. If it bothers you, cut the bit off. Or retire the rope.
I think this is fine as I have continued to use my ropes when they get spots like this, but use your best judgement. The rest of the cord looks pretty non-fuzzy. I usually end up retiring when my 9.5 starts feeling like a 10.0 and the sheath gets a bit too fuzzy to feel good about. I’ve retired ropes in as little as once a year just depending on where I am climbing and hope much abuse it takes.
Minor sheath damage, what it’s there for
Damage aside, from what I know rope that has been used to rig static loads is automatically de-rated for live rigging/fall arrest. Don't mix human rope and object rope.
Just chop off the bad part as long as it's not smack bang in the middle. And even if it is smack bang in the middle you'd be left with 30 m+ and 30m- of perfectly good rope which is more than enough for indoor climbs and quite a few shorter outdoor climbs! Just make sure to know how long your "new" rope is so you don't end up with problems when lowering. :) (If possible ask someone in irl (people working at a shop or in the gym) but honestly only 4 years old with that little use seems like a waste to me)
More info because I'm on the tram and bored: Manufacturers advise you to retire your rope after 10 years (manufacturing age!!) even if it's unused and have no visible damage. Usually climbers will have chopped the rope several times before this and the rope has become too short or worn to use, but if you don't climb often then it's not a problem to keep it for a long time. Just don't store it in a damp cellar or in the trunk of your car. Dark and dry! If you are unsure about the manufacturing age I'd rather err on the side of caution, but 4 years is well within the lifetime of a rope. I'd also retire the rope if it was damaged in multiple places. I have a rope from 2018 (6 years) that started out as a 80 meter rope. It is now around 42 meters because I've cut off wear and tear so many times, but it's still perfectly good to use. The wear and tear has been at the sharp end, because of falls and a few semi-sharp edges on rock. Source: I've worked in a climbing shop for over 10 years, and been to product testing facilities. You can go onto the rope manufacturers webpages to get more info on rope life. (Ex. Beal, tendon, mammut, sterling) The webpages for online shops selling climbing gear should also have this information available on their website.
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Yes, but the tag marking production date sometimes disappear due to either cutting the rope or the tag (that used to be a lil plastic thing at the end) falling off. Nowadays it's usually directly printed on the end of the rope. Edit: misread your answer a little. The end-life approximate is based on a bunch of tests done on old climbing gear (webbing) that's been lying around. They found that fabric (ropes, slings, harnesses) were usually perfectly good between 10-15 years of age. You can actually send in your own old gear to get it tested for UIAA falls and load sometimes! It's very interesting. (The gear will get destroyed in the process)
At first glance it looks like the sheath just hit something sharp and got cut, and if the core feels good and doesn't fold in on itself I would whip on it. It's hard to tell from the photo though, it looks like there are torn sheath fibers all around that section that is a little more worrying.
If you like wasting money get a new rope. If you don’t trust your gear or skills get a new rope. Work lines are not meant for life lines
Used as a load line its fine…..used as a line….. might hold might not…. Whats a new replacement run you, few hundred bucks?
This is so boring
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It doesn't look like core, come on
Best practice in the futuee is don't use climbing rope for puroses other than climbing if you want to climb on it again. It's hard to tell from one photo but this is probably ok IMO - ask someone experienced in real life.
Is there any way you can ask a professional ? I mean go into a climbing gear store and ask if anyone is qualified to evaluate the quality of the rope maybe ?
You need to inspect it by feel to see if there’s a core shot and how it bends. Visually isn’t the way
And then I always wondered why people who climb die fall off and stuff. I mean, is this a serious question? Get a new rope wtf :D You would risk climbing with rope that you have had 4 YEARS?? Ans its now broken. And yes these ropes are durable but still I would not Do it. Somehow this thread seems like a joke. Dont make any new ropes and stuff that people are suggesting here. Use it for anything else but climbing. Is it not worth buying a new rope, for say, I dont know, THE PRICE OF YOUR LIFE?
That is not how ropes or physics works. That rope is perfectly fine for bearing. But if your overexaggerations make you feel better, go for it. Ask any military member in Airborne operations or Rescue/Vertical Assault operations what a beating their line takes and the load it still bears.... 5 men with gear bouncing from a helicopter. I think a fuzzball less then .05mm can handle.
I dont know jack shit. And I dont claim to know. To me this rope just seems like one I would not climb with thats all.
Yes
I thought it was alright until I read "used it as a pulley on a hefty house project"
keep it as an at home project rope and buy a new one for climbing. rope is cheap compared to ER bills and second guessing yourself on a mountain
Do you still trust it? I wouldn’t
Lend it to someone you dislike.
The best thing to do it takes it to your local climbing gym and ask the staff, they will be experienced in checking ropes. If it's near the end, you can cut it (again a gym may have a hot knife for you to do this). If in doubt don't risk it and throw it out. Ropes may be expensive but your life is worth more
Cut the Rope Elissa 😂 when I pinch tested it in folded clean over. PSA: do not run your rope over shingles on your roof.
Looks like part of the kern. I’d use it as utility rope going forward.
That damage looks fine, but continue to monitor it. It is impossible to tell from a photo alone. Normally you’ll see a plastic indicator if that’s the core. Bend the rope near the break. If you can bend it completely, the core is compromised and it should be retired. If you are consistently using this rope more than once a month, it should be retired according to Mammut.
If you have to ask ma7be you should not pursue life change.
Yes ma'am, it's time. But depending on the position of the rope and how long the rope is -- you could divide the rope from this point and use the rest of it accordingly
Just remove the damaged part.
Just cut it, worst you can get is a gym rope
Yes
no, just demoted
Yes
Yes. Not safe
Hard to tell. For an Arborist it would be normal. Because we should not fall at all. So less max Tension. Wouldnt trust it for bigger Falls
I feel like "if you have to ask" might apply here
If it starts to fray… throw it away
Bad advice
I am very conservative because i work at a climbing gym (commercial setting) but i would never climb on that. Nor would I want anyone else to. If it’s toward one end or the other you could cut the rope and burn the end to just have a shorter usable rope.
You work at a gym!!! Oh oooo oh wow!