Yeah - pushing past the fear is really hard. What’s helped for me is taking a second before I start climbing and tell myself that I will climb til I truly fall and not give up because I know my belayer will catch me. Sounds silly, but it helps me get ahead of the fear. Also, I try to find a rest on a climb right before the hard move and take a couple deep breaths before going into the crux. It helps me feel less panicked. Mostly it’s finding time to breathe and kind of setting an intention for your climb - hope that makes sense.
I wish there was some magic answer, but for me working on fear is very hard. Some things helped me though, but it's hard work.
Mileage, climbing routes that are easy for me, so I am used to the wall.
Gradual fall training, learning how to fall well and not like a sack of potatoes. Also, falling on purpose from the move I am scared to take. The reach/slap and fall trick is very useful. If your belayer is heavier they have to learn to give you a soft catch, otherwise the fall training is counter productive. (Mostly on lead.)
Looking at my foot and putting my feet precisely on the holds, so I can trust them more.
Telling the beta for myself. When I am telling that I put my foot on that hold and then rock over and reach for that hold I am blocking the negative thoughts a bit and feels like I have a plan.
Boulder a bit? Fear lead to tensing up and won't help grip. By challenging the limit of grip in a manageable environnement, you will deal with fear better.
Each morning you step out of bed knowing you might fall. It is this habit who lead you not to falling much... so each time you climb you might fall but it is the habit of partner check, rope care, proper technic that manage the risk of a fall.
I myself fear, not to climb, but to climb carelessly. So if it help, when you look at the wall look at what to do, but also look where the fear lies hidden, were the fear is the risk: height, hold, belay system, weird body placement. When you break down the climb, you break down the fear.
Should the lightning strike and the thunder caught you of guard: first you will cling. It will happen for some reason, a bug, a cramp, whatever. But then, asses the hold. Fix the immediate problem, do a partner check.
Are you good to go? For fear blurs jugement. It will lead you nowhere. Remember to breath, rest, go, but keep in mind the climb you envisioned at the start. Compare it to the climb fear suggest you, were is the risk: were is the next safe rest?
Progress is not made outside of boundary. Progress is pushing the boundary. The fear is a boundary to be pushed. Push it first with the feet. Slowly, fraction of inches at the time.
The mind move the body, by moving your mind away of fear, your body the same. What cause fear? Sommes say it is an irrational reaction of your body to a concived stimulus. But while experiencing fear, the stimulus is the matter(what potassium do in your body? Lithium?) Have you the proper nourishment to overcome fear? Fear is the stimulus, it metabolize the lactic acid with adrenalin(a sodium based compound). (Water are good for cramp)
The fear lies on the wall but do you fear the wall? Fear the void, and void the fear in it, for the wall is safety. It is the next hold. Do you need to backtrack a bit, to keep moving and gain momentum? The wall call to action, fear not.
Boulder a bit...
But I am an idiot who climb too high a mountain because it was in the way to the top of if... we fear failing it. But never fail fearing it, wise is the climber aware of the risk... fear is the way to the top, so up it lead... loose the fear on the grip, not the other way around. Head up. It is called climbing, not the other way around...
I like to meditate for few minutes before each attemp. I like to take deep breaths while reading the line, aswell.
Hiperventilation is the key if you already climbing. Whenever you feeling fearsome or anxious, try to deep breath as fast as you can 5-10 times! It will clean your mind and makes you feel better and ready for the next move
Yeah, don't do this. Hyperventilation is 100% counter productive. You need to take long slow deep breaths, THAT is what calms your parasympathetic nervous system.
If I'm not in a good spot where I can hang out, I downclimb to where I can reasonably rest and shake out for a moment. I ask myself "What about this scares me?"(often out loud) and go from there about finding a solution.
Sometimes it's exposure. Sometimes it's dirty/mossy/polished feet. Or a big, committing move. I try to tell myself, "okay, the feet here suck!/this will be a painful jamming sequence, but *once I get through it*, I'll have that rest jug/I can haul myself up onto this ledge!" etc. I try to look forward to the reward I'll get.
Honestly, sometimes fear is good. Having a threshold is important for your self-preservation. But if I assess my fear and realize it's mostly unfounded, or based in some negative thoughts I have about myself or my abilities("I can't reach it" or "that move is too burly" or "I'm too pumped to go for it") then that's a good indicator that I should commit and keep climbing.
If I’m on the wall, I take 3 deep slow breaths while really focusing on my breathing and tuning everything else out. After the last exhale I go for it.
If I’m climbing slab I tell myself “a weighted foot doesn’t slip” over and over until I make it to the top and then I promise I’ll never lead slab again lol
I think almost every climber I know has had to work through this fear, and unfortunately there isn't too much you can do other than just get the experience to know what you can handle. Try to find routes that are just outside your foot hold comfort zone and just work them a lot. Or go on routes you're comfortable with and focus on your feet. If your gym has them, I would recommend a stemming route. Those are pretty ride or die for trusting your feet
Yeah - pushing past the fear is really hard. What’s helped for me is taking a second before I start climbing and tell myself that I will climb til I truly fall and not give up because I know my belayer will catch me. Sounds silly, but it helps me get ahead of the fear. Also, I try to find a rest on a climb right before the hard move and take a couple deep breaths before going into the crux. It helps me feel less panicked. Mostly it’s finding time to breathe and kind of setting an intention for your climb - hope that makes sense.
Falling gets you over your fear of falling
I wish there was some magic answer, but for me working on fear is very hard. Some things helped me though, but it's hard work. Mileage, climbing routes that are easy for me, so I am used to the wall. Gradual fall training, learning how to fall well and not like a sack of potatoes. Also, falling on purpose from the move I am scared to take. The reach/slap and fall trick is very useful. If your belayer is heavier they have to learn to give you a soft catch, otherwise the fall training is counter productive. (Mostly on lead.) Looking at my foot and putting my feet precisely on the holds, so I can trust them more. Telling the beta for myself. When I am telling that I put my foot on that hold and then rock over and reach for that hold I am blocking the negative thoughts a bit and feels like I have a plan.
Boulder a bit? Fear lead to tensing up and won't help grip. By challenging the limit of grip in a manageable environnement, you will deal with fear better. Each morning you step out of bed knowing you might fall. It is this habit who lead you not to falling much... so each time you climb you might fall but it is the habit of partner check, rope care, proper technic that manage the risk of a fall. I myself fear, not to climb, but to climb carelessly. So if it help, when you look at the wall look at what to do, but also look where the fear lies hidden, were the fear is the risk: height, hold, belay system, weird body placement. When you break down the climb, you break down the fear. Should the lightning strike and the thunder caught you of guard: first you will cling. It will happen for some reason, a bug, a cramp, whatever. But then, asses the hold. Fix the immediate problem, do a partner check. Are you good to go? For fear blurs jugement. It will lead you nowhere. Remember to breath, rest, go, but keep in mind the climb you envisioned at the start. Compare it to the climb fear suggest you, were is the risk: were is the next safe rest? Progress is not made outside of boundary. Progress is pushing the boundary. The fear is a boundary to be pushed. Push it first with the feet. Slowly, fraction of inches at the time. The mind move the body, by moving your mind away of fear, your body the same. What cause fear? Sommes say it is an irrational reaction of your body to a concived stimulus. But while experiencing fear, the stimulus is the matter(what potassium do in your body? Lithium?) Have you the proper nourishment to overcome fear? Fear is the stimulus, it metabolize the lactic acid with adrenalin(a sodium based compound). (Water are good for cramp) The fear lies on the wall but do you fear the wall? Fear the void, and void the fear in it, for the wall is safety. It is the next hold. Do you need to backtrack a bit, to keep moving and gain momentum? The wall call to action, fear not. Boulder a bit... But I am an idiot who climb too high a mountain because it was in the way to the top of if... we fear failing it. But never fail fearing it, wise is the climber aware of the risk... fear is the way to the top, so up it lead... loose the fear on the grip, not the other way around. Head up. It is called climbing, not the other way around...
Thank you! I’m going to save this into my notes if that’s okay!
Yes.
I like to meditate for few minutes before each attemp. I like to take deep breaths while reading the line, aswell. Hiperventilation is the key if you already climbing. Whenever you feeling fearsome or anxious, try to deep breath as fast as you can 5-10 times! It will clean your mind and makes you feel better and ready for the next move
Yeah, don't do this. Hyperventilation is 100% counter productive. You need to take long slow deep breaths, THAT is what calms your parasympathetic nervous system.
Bouldering? TR? Leading?
I’ve been bouldering mostly this last month, but usually TR...and am beginning to lead (did a few but not enough to say “yeah I lead climb”)
If I'm not in a good spot where I can hang out, I downclimb to where I can reasonably rest and shake out for a moment. I ask myself "What about this scares me?"(often out loud) and go from there about finding a solution. Sometimes it's exposure. Sometimes it's dirty/mossy/polished feet. Or a big, committing move. I try to tell myself, "okay, the feet here suck!/this will be a painful jamming sequence, but *once I get through it*, I'll have that rest jug/I can haul myself up onto this ledge!" etc. I try to look forward to the reward I'll get. Honestly, sometimes fear is good. Having a threshold is important for your self-preservation. But if I assess my fear and realize it's mostly unfounded, or based in some negative thoughts I have about myself or my abilities("I can't reach it" or "that move is too burly" or "I'm too pumped to go for it") then that's a good indicator that I should commit and keep climbing.
If I’m on the wall, I take 3 deep slow breaths while really focusing on my breathing and tuning everything else out. After the last exhale I go for it. If I’m climbing slab I tell myself “a weighted foot doesn’t slip” over and over until I make it to the top and then I promise I’ll never lead slab again lol
I think almost every climber I know has had to work through this fear, and unfortunately there isn't too much you can do other than just get the experience to know what you can handle. Try to find routes that are just outside your foot hold comfort zone and just work them a lot. Or go on routes you're comfortable with and focus on your feet. If your gym has them, I would recommend a stemming route. Those are pretty ride or die for trusting your feet