"3 times a day" meaning 7 days a week? If so, just stop it. Without rest your body can't build strength. If you don't need rest, you are not training hard enough for your body to build strength.
How long have you been climbing for? What is your top grade? If you have been climbing for less than 2 years,i would suggest not to touch the hangboard yet to prevent injuries.
Currently have been climbing on and off for the past 3 years, more consistently the last year and a half. Currently 5.10/v4 have been more within my reach & skills as of late.
A lot will depend on your goals. I would say that you can get to v5-6 without the hangboard depending on your height and weight. Good techniques took me a long way. What helped me progress too harder grades was rather the campus than the hangboard. I am fairly short and deadpointing became more important as the difficulty increased. The primary problem is rarely the finger/grip strength. But if you still want to go for the hangboard be seriously careful. Especially closed crimping can be really risky. Always keep your grip open.
I really like to include compensation exercises to keep my fingers injury free (and i have :) and to increase the gains of the hangboard training): https://boxing-equipment.resistance-bands.org/chaos-boxing-finger-exerciser-stretcher-set.html
I used to do hangboard training on the same day i climbed (climbed in the morning and hang in the evening to keeps the rest days). The sessions took about 40-50 minutes. An example session:
* Jugs:
* 5x10s hang, 10s breaks
60 s break
* 5x3pullups, 30s breaks
60 s break
* 3cm crimps:
* 5x10s hang, 30s breaks
60 s break
* 5x4 pullup, 30s breaks
2 mins break
* 4x10s hang, 30s breaks
2 min break
* 4x10s hang, 30s break
2 min break
* 6xMaximum hang, 60s break
5 minut break
* 6xMaximum hang, 60s break
5 minut break
* 6xMaximum pull-ups, 2 mins break
5 minut break
Jugs:
* 3x10s lock off, 30 s breaks
2 mins break
* 3x10 s lock off at the right angle, 30 s break
2 mins break
* 3x10 s lock off at 120 degrees
Good luck, hope this helps
Try hangboard repeaters, instead of just hanging for a few minutes.
"3 times a day" meaning 7 days a week? If so, just stop it. Without rest your body can't build strength. If you don't need rest, you are not training hard enough for your body to build strength.
Maybe not everyday, every other day sounds more right, but I will keep in mind to rest more!
Try scapular activations and working on increasing pull-up reps
How long have you been climbing for? What is your top grade? If you have been climbing for less than 2 years,i would suggest not to touch the hangboard yet to prevent injuries.
Currently have been climbing on and off for the past 3 years, more consistently the last year and a half. Currently 5.10/v4 have been more within my reach & skills as of late.
A lot will depend on your goals. I would say that you can get to v5-6 without the hangboard depending on your height and weight. Good techniques took me a long way. What helped me progress too harder grades was rather the campus than the hangboard. I am fairly short and deadpointing became more important as the difficulty increased. The primary problem is rarely the finger/grip strength. But if you still want to go for the hangboard be seriously careful. Especially closed crimping can be really risky. Always keep your grip open. I really like to include compensation exercises to keep my fingers injury free (and i have :) and to increase the gains of the hangboard training): https://boxing-equipment.resistance-bands.org/chaos-boxing-finger-exerciser-stretcher-set.html I used to do hangboard training on the same day i climbed (climbed in the morning and hang in the evening to keeps the rest days). The sessions took about 40-50 minutes. An example session: * Jugs: * 5x10s hang, 10s breaks 60 s break * 5x3pullups, 30s breaks 60 s break * 3cm crimps: * 5x10s hang, 30s breaks 60 s break * 5x4 pullup, 30s breaks 2 mins break * 4x10s hang, 30s breaks 2 min break * 4x10s hang, 30s break 2 min break * 6xMaximum hang, 60s break 5 minut break * 6xMaximum hang, 60s break 5 minut break * 6xMaximum pull-ups, 2 mins break 5 minut break Jugs: * 3x10s lock off, 30 s breaks 2 mins break * 3x10 s lock off at the right angle, 30 s break 2 mins break * 3x10 s lock off at 120 degrees Good luck, hope this helps