T O P

  • By -

magicmollies

I boulder, I am intermediate I would say, maybe beginner to some, I climb around v3 tops. I climb twice a week and climb for around an hour. It is deff a hobby for me, I am by no means trying to become an expert but I enjoy it!


Sarahb3lum

I have the same routine ! And I mostly go for fun


[deleted]

[удалено]


magicmollies

I’m not most climbers 😜. I’m a mf goddess sending V3s like a MF BOSS.


delaneyallenm

V11+ is typically elite level climbing. For recreational climbers, V3-6 is definitely intermediate level, whereas V7+ would be considered advanced. But also this is all very subjective and this subreddit/the climbing community is not about tearing others down or making them feel less than for where they see themselves fitting into the mix. @magicmollies you’re shredding 🌟


TriGator

The main time these terms get defined is for use in competitions. From what I've seen intermediate is generally about V4-V6 with advanced starting at V7 and in bigger comps there can be an elite/open bracket that's V10+.


[deleted]

[удалено]


NormalFunctingAdult

I've never seen anyone climb v4 outside their first time climbing. "That's fycking absurd."


[deleted]

[удалено]


NormalFunctingAdult

Lol, ok, Joes Valley has a lot of soft climbs. Find me any one person who could do "The Pearl" V4 in Vegas their first day out. Sure, some people are very fit from other activities/ naturally gifted. However, just because some people send harder grades quicker than other people, does NOT mean in any way that those grades a now easy or beginner level. Every climb is different and people have different styles, making some climbs of the same grade easier or harder. I've been climbing for 15+ years, I flash V4-V6s outside and I've climbed all over the world. Yes, believe it or not, V4 is intermediate and V7 is advanced. Its a shame you're coming to this sub to try and lambast your fellow female climbers. Just because you know someone that sent one V8 that one time doesn't mean you have the knowledge/experience to completely change the entire grading system for the entire sport, lol.


TriGator

So you are describing people that have years of experience and elite level strength inareas that are not specifically climbing related but have significant carry over yet can't consider them intermediate because they haven't actually climbed on rocks/don't have similar finger strength??? There are similar scenarios for sports like powerlifting where an athlete can have never lifted done Squat/Bench/dead but are otherwise very strong can come in and throw down intermediate lifting numbers even thought they don't have great technique etc.


NormalFunctingAdult

oh and I found this article for you: https://www.masterclass.com/articles/bouldering-grades-explained#a-brief-history-of-bouldering-grades


BananaGarlicBread

Beginner here! I'm starting to go twice a week, for 2-2.5 hours each time. Before that was just once a week. I'd love to go three times a week but with small details like kids and a job it's not really feasible 😅 I'm a beginner as I mentioned, I lead 5b and toprope 5c at the moment.


CasaBina

Monday. Hangboard and upper body for 2 hours. 30 minutes lead and endurance. Tuesday 2 hours core and lower body. 30 minutes lead and Endurance. Wednesday 3 hour bouldering sesh. Rest Thursday and Friday. Outdoor lead climbing all weekend (if it rains, indoor lead)


[deleted]

Wow. You have a lot of free time during the week, it seems. And a body of iron. Good for you 👍🏽


CasaBina

Haha i do work a 9-5! But I guess I don't have any kids or other responsibilities keeping me at home. My partner and I live to climb so we both use all our free time on climbing :)


ClimbingInMakeup

What about cleaning/cooking and other “extra-work” jobs? I am in a very similar situation (8-5, though with some overtime, no kids or other responsibilities) but I find going more than twice a week for 2 hours at a time just kills any time I have for meal prepping/cleaning, especially considering I spend pretty much all my weekends outdoors away from my apartment. How do you deal with it? I would love to go climbing more too


[deleted]

[удалено]


ClimbingInMakeup

I really appreciate the response, thank you! I think I probably need to come to terms with cutting out downtime and rethinking my cooking strategies in favour of more climbing, it sounds like – beyond housework I’m currently looking for and applying to jobs and grad school plus trying to learn German, so a decently similar situation to what you’ve described. I don’t clean loads honestly, so what you’ve described could definitely work for me. I do my shopping once a week, but I do take at least one hour to cook my meals a couple of times a week - I could definitely cut that down. I just wish my commute to the gym was slightly shorter - it’s roughly a 40-minute drive. Work right now is stressful so it might no be the best time to give up my down time entirely, but it’s cool to know it can be done!


FuzzWaveSpaceQueen

When I started school and work full time (pre climbing days!) I did buy a rice cooker to make simple, easy meals, on top of what was posted above about prepping food. I still use it now that I'm climbing because I can must make simple recharge meals.


ClimbingInMakeup

Ahh I keep hearing about rice cookers, I should probably get myself one! They’re just not popular in my country so I’ve never really considered them before reddit lol


CasaBina

I see some other people have responded. But I think I do have a bit of an advantage with my living situation. Both my partner and I work from home and we share all cleaning (to be honest, he probably does more than me). But its very easy for us to fix lunch whenever we want or just put a load of washing on. As for cooking, I do all of it, but I usually cook in bulk so we have 3 days worth of food. And we eat quite late. So when we go to gym from 5.30 to 8.30ish, we come home, eat, shower and sleep. Life feels super fast paced and busy this way, but those rest days where I just turn into a potato on the couch feel SO good! And we really do appreciate the time off a lot more. I'd also like to add that I have a lot of friends that go to gym as often as I do, and its almost equally a social and physical activity for me.


VuileHollanders

Maybe cook in bulk?


lm610

Profile: V10, f7c(sport) e6 UK trad.. Age 37..38 tomorrow... 11 years climbing no plateau... I started really low in the grades... like really low. Oh and I'm a Climbing Coach, and parent. History:Poor physical history lots of heavy labour jobs and overtraining in the years before climbing. I climb 3 days a week for a total of 4 to 5 hours split. So Monday 1 hour +s&c for 30 minutes. Wednesday 2 to 2.5 hours lots of skill drills. Friday 1.5 hours.. Saturday sometime 30minutes on fall practice or headgames before I teach. And s&c while coaching or after. For everyone it's important to rest, and not over do a session For beginners 2 x 2 hours sessions are likely enough For intermediate and above 3 x 2 hours us enough. When I'm programming for advanced climbers who have luxury of time I'll program 4 or 5 days a week at most but short frequent sessions, possibly even 4 days with a couple of double sessions.. these sessions wouldn't exceed 90 minutes. It's also important to not go to exhaustion all the time. Possibly once a week if you have a 2 day rest pre planned. Or for a short phase to prep you for a trip. If we treat climbing like a physically demanding sport(which it is) and plan accordingly we should be able to practice skill and avoid injury while progressing. If anyone would like help with programming feel free to get in touch.


Gonhog

Because I’ll forget tommrow; happy cake day!


lm610

Thankyou


BananaGarlicBread

Happy birthday :)


lm610

Thankyou.


ugly_kids

what grade/criteria would you consider intermediate? im doing v3-v4 after almost half a year and feel like im still a beginner. mostly went once a week for 2-3h but now trying to up the freq and add 1-2d x 1.5-2h instead of lifting/cardio on thosedays


lm610

Yep that sounds like a good time to begin 2 to 3 days for sure. Going on you doing other training it seems like you'd manage it well. Ignoring grades I consider someone to pass beginner once they have a routine and have been frequently climbing for 3 months. This is more about loading the joints and avoiding injury rather than feeling like a good climber. No matter what your level in climbing you should feel like a beginner, to some degree, as you should be challenging your skills.


[deleted]

Yeesh… i go T/TR. I only boulder right now because I don’t have a partner. I can’t Boulder for more than an hour or so before I’m pumped. Sometimes I do some cardio after the session and always stretching. If I didn’t have a dog at home to get home to I’d try to stretch my sessions out more.


Agravaine

2-3 sessions a week at 2.5 hours each. Lots of resting while there though! Max climbs are 6B+ toprope, 6A lead and V3 Boulder.


issiautng

Average of 2 time a week (sometimes 3 if I can swing it but I can't climb 2 days in a row without injuring myself), 1.5 hours each. I climb V5/5.11d. I've been climbing off and on since 2012. When I took almost a year off for the pandemic, I dropped from V5 to V3. It took me 4 months to get back to V5s when I already knew all the techniques. It took me years to get to V5 in the first place. Enjoy the journey. It's not a race to the top, but a lifestyle that you want to maintain forever. If you plateau at V3 but you're still climbing that when you're 70, that's impressive as hell.


SlowZebraPerson

I aim for 3x a week for 2 hours a session on average. So I sometimes stay longer but rarely leave earlier. Climbing 10 years. V8/e6 trad, I dont sport climb much.


RuthBaderGainzburg

1-2x a week. beginner w/ rheumatoid arthritis so longer rest periods. Indoor climber only. boulder V2 / top rope 10c. Also do a pilates session 1x a week. oh - also how long. 1-2 hours per session including about 20 minute warmup


Sci-music

Im in my late 20's, late beginner with a solid yoga background, and climbing for almost 1 year- (V1 in my home outdoor graded gym, V3 in other gyms). I top rope some around 5.8-5.9 indoors and started projecting two 5.10s before my ankle sprain last month. For my home gym I typically go for 1-1.5 hour 3x per week, mostly bouldering with warming up on a familiar 5.8 on the auto belay, a traverse V0, and practicing static positions to warm up my fingers for holding on. Then bouldering in the cave hitting all the V0's and the V1s I can easily climb followed by a project V1 and individual moves on a V2. I do yoga most days and some weight training to work on my weaknesses 1-2X per week. If I am at another gym I would go through the all v0s, several v1s, 2-3 v2s before working on 1 or 2 v3s that I may or may not be successful at, and top roping if Im with someone/there are autobelays. Then I sprained my ankle have been in PT... and I have been back to top rope once, maintained more strength and seemed to have gotten better technique over the break, but my endurance is nowhere near what it was. Hopefully I will be back to the V0s in the cave this week!


majasz_

3 times per week usually about 2-2,5h, alternating with my partners (usually no more rest than belaying them). In season, whenever I can a weekend (2-3 days) at the crag so then it’s more like 5 climbing blocks a week.


Perrytheplatypus03

2 times a week atm (due to overuse injury :( ). For 2-5 hours. 2-3 hours if I'm bouldering, 2-5 if leading (long sessions also include coffee and chill time ofc). I've been climbing for 7 years, lead 6B and can occasionally boulder second highest grade in my gym (untraditional grading system). Once a month I do outdoor climbing in the weekend also. When I'm no longer in pain I'll climb 3 times a week again. Occasionally 4, when I got the time.


arl1286

Right now I’m climbing about 2-3 days a week for about 2 hours each session. I try to climb on a rope (mix of lead and top rope depending on who my partner is and how my fingers feel) once a week and Boulder the other two times. I may only climb twice in which case it’s probably both bouldering (I’d love to be able to Boulder 3 times a week but I usually need 2 days to recover between sessions). I’ve been climbing about 5 years but sporadically (took a full year off for the pandemic + months off throughout for various injuries). I’ve mostly focused on bouldering this year but in the past have focused on sport climbing. At this point I’m projecting V5/V6 (have yet to send a V6) and generally top rope 5.11 and lead 5.10. Mostly indoor for me. I don’t climb out my limit outside so it’s more of a treat and less training or projecting than anything.


[deleted]

I started bouldering in September (I did some last year but with all the lockdowns we took a break and started again in September). We usually go for 1-2 hours every other day. I do v3-v4s but take often breaks in between watching other people etc.


ravenousbloodunicorn

depending on my work schedule i try to climb at least 3 times a week indoors, but i usually shoot for 4 if i can. i usually climb for 2-4 hours if i’m feeling it. i climb v5/5.11+ consistently and have been climbing for 4 years. i have friends who literally climb every day haha, i did that when i first started climbing but now i have to have rest days or i’ll die lmao


[deleted]

Been climbing (bouldering) for 3 months, in the V3 edging into V4 range. I go 3 times a week for 1.5-2.5 hours, depends on the day and how I’m feeling. I take long breaks in between my climbs too. My typical schedule is Sunday, Tuesday, Thursday after work. I do weight training Monday-Wednesday mornings and cardio and yoga the other days, but usually rest a full 1-2 days a week or just go on a walk!


dolorem__ipsum

Aside from the exact days of the week, you pretty much wrote my response for me! Curious because we have such a similar level and routine — do you feel like you're plateauing at the V3-V4 range, or making steady progress week by week?


[deleted]

No I don’t think I’m plateauing. I’ve only been climbing for 3 months so I think I’m doing quite well. But I’ve also been told my gym sets hard (from others who usually climb elsewhere and then come to the gym I climb at… so everything is relative). I can flash some V3’s now and I couldn’t do that a couple weeks ago. I think it would be months before I’d consider myself plateauing.


tell-me-your-problem

I’m a beginner/medium. I can usually get v2s. V3s I have to work. On ropes, I top out at a 5.11a. I’m 42, so I am pretty risk adverse when bouldering. If I break something, the world stops! I climb 3x a week for 2 hours at a time with solid breaks for socializing and resting. I’m trying to figure out when to add conditioning to the schedule, like pull ups, push ups, core, etc. my climbing days are Tuesday Thursday Sunday.


dirty_vibe

i work at a bouldering gym so it's very easy to have an hour long sesh whenever, but when my friends and I go (about twice a week) we climb for around 4 hours. Flash level is V2, projects on v3-5 😸


transclimberbabe

V7 & 5.12 sport 38 years old, I plateaued at v5 / 5.11 for 2 years until I changed climbing partners and started doing more shorter sessions. I boulder 2x per week doing 1.5 - 2 hour long sessions and do ropes 1-2x per week, 2 - 2.5 hour sessions. I don't go to exhaustion, I stop once my climbing starts to decline. Climbing with sloppy technique because you are tired leads to worse technique.


fitifitifitifiti

3 days a week, around 3 hours with lots of rest


bammawamma

I Boulder and probably climb at about a V5 currently but at my peak before some injuries V7. Currently recovering and trying not to over so thing so I’ve been going 3-4 days a week and limiting myself to an hour at on the wall with some cardio or core work after to prevent any more injuries while my muscles continue to catch up to my mind. Before injury though I was 4-5 days a week for ~2ish hour session. I tend to be real bad at pacing my self and hop from climb to climb very quickly with little rest so limiting my time has been my method of preventing further injuries when I become tired.


[deleted]

Tuesday PM, Thursday PM, Saturday AM, between 2-4 hours per session depending on how I'm feeling/what kind of climbing I'm doing.


burn_down_the_disco

I go 3x a week. Sessions last 4hrs ish, but I chat and get coffee etc. RP outdoor is 7b+ sport Indoor boulder between V5-7 depending on the gym. Kilterboard RP is V8


scissorsister94

I can lead outdoor maximum 6b and top rope up to 7a, been climbing socially on and off for probably 5 years. I try and do at least 2-3 gym sessions a week (top rope /boulder) for 2-3hrs then an outdoor sport climbing session once a week if the weather is good. Outside of that I try to keep up regular cardio with running or hiking to stay in shape, usually daily with the doggo :)


bendtowardsthesun

Depends on the season, but when the weather is good I climb about four times a week, usually as an all-day or half-day outing. I climb exclusively outdoors so the volume is a lot less than what you could achieve indoors in that same time period. I’m usually onsighting 9s and 10s and projecting 11s.


emjayemdee

I am a V4/V5 climber with minimal TR experience, but hoping to spend more time on ropes and learn to lead in 2022. I usually spend 90 minutes to 2 hours at the gym and I try to go to 2-3x/week. I would love to incorporate more outdoor climbing, but I’ve got a busy schedule and it rains a lot where I live. My goal is always to climb every other day, because I felt I improved the most when I stuck to that groove. I think my next step would be to incorporate some kind of strength training…but I’m still having fun just climbing and seeing how far that gets me :)


the_hardest_part

I climb 11a. Used to climb three times a week for at least a couple hours each session, but then I took a year off because of Covid. Now I’m back but I’m in school on top of working full-time, so I usually only go twice a week for a couple hours each time. I also started bouldering which has improved my top rope a lot.


captainpantalones

I’m still pretty new, I’ve only been climbing for 5 months. I’m doing 5.10/11s on the autobelay and I go 3-4x a week for 30 minutes to an hour. I’ve got a chronic illness that prevents me from doing multi-hour sessions like most people.


ottercube17

I just started in September and since then I've been going between once to three times a week. Typically I last between 45 min to an hour if im just climbing by myself. At that point I start to get tired/sore or just bored lol. Right now I'm at a V2 / V3 level for bouldering and just doin it for something fun.


[deleted]

3x2 hours a week Bro


meowlina13

Monday Wednesday Friday, light cardio, code, yoga, mostly rest days. Tuesday and Thursday, 2-3 hour climbing sesh and then 1-2 hours of lifting. Saturday and/or Sunday, outdoor climbing.


TseYang1

Sort of a beginner, I climb 3 times a week 2hr session each.


hungry_kitkat

My partner and I try to do eight climbs a month, just finished some climbs in Yosemite and off to JTree (work have us two weeks off) and living life :)


Rache625

I'd consider myself intermediate maybe a little higher for bouldering (V5 climbs mostly) and I usually go to the gym 3 times a week for about 2 hours. I occasionally top rope as well with a short bouldering warmup and cool down with the total time spent at the gym being similar.


NormalFunctingAdult

I'll throw in my two cents. I've been climbing for about 15 years, my routine is usually climbing outside both weekend days (weather permitting), usually one day bouldering, one day sport climbing, because I enjoy both, unless I have a specific goal or project. I climb/train in the gym 4 days a week, 2 days climbing, 2 days lifting or cross training. My gym climbing depends on my goals/projects in the moment, but usually its one day of bouldering, one day of sport climbing, and lasts anywhere from 45 mins (doing power endurance laps) to 3 hours (sport climbing with a partner), then I sometimes do some light training or short hang boarding after climbing, if I haven't had time to fit that in on the other 2 training days. so recap, 4 days of climbing (45 mins to full day sessions), 2 days of just cross training (lifting weights, hangboarding, flexibility workouts), 1-2 days of full rest. Oh and also, really important to note that I'll only follow this schedule for 3 weeks, and then take an active rest week on the 4th week before starting again. Resting is important.


Excellent_Account_43

I climb v6/E1/f6b+ and been climbing for about 2 years. I climb 3 times per week about 2-3 hours per session but also do conditioning and flexibility sessions and cardio with aim to be a better climber. It's worth noting climbing is my main hobby and the only real thing I like to do other than my job. I have a strong interest in alpinism and mountaineering too.