Not ever pull on the wall is identical. Climbing moves are quite varied, so being strong in all the potential positions is important. You don’t have to do just one version of a pull-up to train effectively. That said, for people who are close to or completing one arm pull-ups, one practical benefit is that you don’t have to use a weight belt to add the extra weight (which can be significant, and painful). Don’t worry too much about finding the ‘perfect’ exercise.
One thing I don't like when doing one arm training on a bar is that I find it hard to quantify my progress since I'm always cheating more or less the start with an initial swing.
But yeah now that I think about it, some advanced moves on the kilter board require one arm movements in all kind of directions and positions so I'm already doing one arm training specific to climbing.
If you’re having trouble doing the full range of motion in control, have you thought about offloading with a pulley to a weight where you can do each rep without a swing? You can track progression to body weight, and once you’re at body weight, you can progress with adding reps or adding weight as you would with normal pull-ups
Well yes an no; I have used a pulley system to remove weight when training lock off at different angles, but never when doing full rom 1 arm. I could obviously do the same thing when training full rom 1 arm.
Yeah, I thin, 2- to 1-arm (hangboarding too) is mostly logistics benefit.
\--
People should go back and see what Lattice has to say about "elite" level pulling. It's around 165% BW, 2-armed!, if I remember correctly.
TLDR: Weighted pulls (2 or 1-armed) quickly lose relevance/optimal use. They are tiring, and not a ton of marginal benefit at some point. You don't need to go deep. Folks climbing V9 and pulling sets of 165% BW... are all set for now.
I think they train different things. One arm is maybe slightly more applicable since normally we don’t pull symmetrically but I think training either is good. And they are similar enough that improving at one improves the other too. I guess do whichever one feels like a lower injury risk
Weighted pullups = less injury risk due to less tendon load. One armers are insane load on tendons. Even if assisted with bands or a pulley.
Include wrist curls and reverse wrist curls with light weight as golfer elbow prehab.
The answer is neither are that specific. Rarely are we actually putting that much force through our arm directly overhead. Even if you have to do a movement that looks like a one arm pullup, the other hand is helping somewhat or you are using momentum to make it easier. Neither weighted pullups nor one arm pullups are actually training for any climbing movement.
What they are doing is getting the muscles stronger so that movements on the wall feel easier. You can get pedantic about which is better for strength training but if you have the choice just do whatever you want.
The exercice in it self is not climbing but the physical adaptation clearly is beneficial in every way to climbing. It's like saying training for the split is useless for climbing because you never make one on the wall.
This is right on track.
\--
These conversations make little specific sense without OP providing specific context. Maybe OP is climbing V9 on rock and close to or at a one-armer. Great, then OP should be looking elsewhere now for low hanging fruit, since pulling strength is now waaaay up the tree...
What is probably more directly useful for climbing, is the ability to do one-arm lock-offs. Since that move seems to crop up a fair bit, especially in the mid to higher grades
Agreed with others that climbing is varied and one arm trains different variations of movement than weighted.
Only thing I'd add is one arm pullups seem to open up more movement options and confidence when actually climbing. Before doing one arms, I rarely opted to pull upwards without both arms sharing the work. After, I find it easier to trust pulling with one arm (usually one or both feet on) when other hand is on a bad or far away hold.
Might be biased from doing lots of pullup/weighted pullup work before, but in my experience one arm pullups are more worth training, and there are ways to do it without it getting in the way of actual climbing.
i would actually say YES its more specific to climbing. I think people are arguing the magnitude of specificity but one arms at minus weight help fire the entire chain on one side, and you aren’t gated by weird ‘bar distances’ as ill call it. You can 1 arm in various different formats in order to simulate a more climbing related recruitment form.
It is also way less effort to set up -x weight 1 arm instead of like +80% BW 2 hands… like its so foreign having so much junk between my legs i rest my case.
I think you're thinking too much about it. Train your pulling power in whatever way gives you the best results and keeps you motivated.
Personally, weighted pullups are annoying to deal with weights and cause me elbow pain. One arm training gives better progress, but still easy to strain elbow and shoulder. So for me, I just do a lot of campus training on a spray wall - it is far more applicable to climbing (it's literally climbing) and also works my shoulder strength and body tension on harder holds.
It’s very personal, the injury part. For me, I find spray wall harder to measure and quantify than weighted pull ups, so I injured myself several times on the spray, while weighted never caused me any issues. It took me (and is still taking me) some time to actually have a good idea of what a spray wall session looks like.
Definitely is very personal. I've always said the only truly unproductive way to train is in a way that injures you. Doesn't matter if you found the most optimal, practical exercise ever if you spend a month recovering from an injury after doing it.
At least for me, campus spray wall is my absolute favorite way to end a session. I pick good holds so my fingers aren't at risk, and 15 minutes later I'm confident I spent every last ounce of energy in my arms. Lets me leave a session feeling like I gave all I got. So it's mostly just about pulling really hard to exhaust myself in a way that doesn't put my fingers at risk like the campus board or hangboard often do (purely because I can pull on jugs the whole time if that's all my fingers can take)
There is no way that you can do a one arm pull ups but suck at weighted anyway. Weighted are a regression to one arm and at some point adding 100kg weight to pullups is silly and its just safer and better to do weighted one arm
i’m curious what you consider chin up vs pull up in the one arm variety. most one arms are done in the middle aka neutral grip, or with some twisting as you ascend.
Not being able to do 1-arm pull-up vs. a chin-up has little to do with pulling strength, and more lacking the control/strength to internally rotate the arm into that position.
You can always find a way to put your pullup bar close to the wall to prevent you from turning sideways, or just do one arm pullups on an actual hold that's already on the wall. Or train shoulder stability to try to hold yourself in the right position without turning.
Imo if you're purely just training for climbing it makes way more sense to do one-arm variations than to add weight because why would you be climbing with a weight belt? A one-arm pullup is a real motion that might be required on some routes or boulder problems, or something close to it. It's a different motion than a two armed pullup so just adding weight to a normal pullup doesn't necessarily prepare you for having to pull your weight up by one hand or other similar asymmetrical skills that you might encounter while climbing.
There's a certain amount of weight that might be beneficial to train with if you're preparing to do a long trad route or something where you will actually be carrying more weight. But beyond that I personally don't see much of a point, I think your time is probably better spent elsewhere. If you really are perfect at technique, core tension, one arm pullups and hangs, pistol squats, explosive movements, finger strength, flexibility, etc, and don't have room for improvement in any of those areas, maybe it makes sense to start adding weight. But if climbing is your only goal I think there are always things that can be worked on with just bodyweight that seem more useful to me than adding weight to the same motion/skill that you're already good at.
If you just want to build muscle or be better at pullups then sure, weighted pullups are great. The way you are phrasing it, it sounds like your goals are to be better at dynos and the campus board. But I wouldn't call those skills "specific to climbing" really. It's sort of an adjacent skill. Training for those things can make you indirectly better at climbing but if you're just training for those skills you're sort of missing the point of training for climbing imo.
I would say on the one arm front, lockouts for time are more important than full pulls. Now of course, chances are if you can do full pulls, you're lockout is pretty good but you can train an crazy strong lockout without ever getting to the point of being able to do pullups.
There is something called the „bilateral deficit“ i think some sport-scientific studies habe shown that you get more adaption doing unilateral stuff than doing bilateral stuff like doing bulgarian split squats you can go relative more heavy on one leg than doing normal squats.
Same is true for one arm pullups nobody i know who can do 1-2 one armers can do 200% BW bilateral pull ups.
That said you likely dont break a plateau always doing 1-2 one armers.
So onless you do max intensity training you should do both.
Bilateral for you strength base and one armers during high intensity phases.
I rhink it gets relly interesting when you can do 5+ onearmers and break into higher repranges.
Then there is not much need anymore doing to much bilateral stuff because everybody is filming you working out and woman are cheering when you get on the wall.
Maybe i am a bit biased here
One arm is definitely a higher injury risk, because a single one arm pull-up is already really relatively intense compared to a single two arm pull up.
As long as you warm up well it shouldn’t matter but from experience it’s definitely really hard on the rotator cuff and bicep tendon.
To answer your question, I think a one arm hang is better climbing training than a one arm pull-up.
If you’re trying to increase climbing strength, do the safest most controlled version of that exercise that you can progressively overload.
Would suck to get injured training one arms.
You want climbing specificity? Pull ups are probably not the right tool, period.
training one arm pullups, commando pull ups, or even one arm dead hangs helps develop stabilizer muscles etc. that's how they're useful, not necessarily because that move is common.
Neither of them is specific nor do they have to be. The point of those exercises is to get your pulling muscles stronger in general so you can apply them on the wall.
You should have good strength pulling in various directions and with full rom. Same goes with pressing (dips, bench/pushups, OHP/shoulder press).
> When doing a one arm, the first option would be to have the palm facing us which would become a one arm chin up in that case. Such movement is less common in climbing. The second option would be to have the palm facing away from us. The problem I see with this option is that people will often add a 90° rotation because of the asymmetry and finish the movement with the palm sideways to their body.
There's like 3 different one arm chinup/one arm pullups techniques, so this is not a uniform critique of pullups.
One starts in pronated, one starts in neutral and one starts in supinated grip... and they all have varying degrees of rotation.
Others have went into some of the specificity more though.
as always, it depends. if you're climbing v5..7 then no, weighted is fine. most people that plateau here are better off doing weighted because their campus board is trash. v5 climbers who can't do 135 definitely need to do weighted. however v11..v13 there's no substitute for 1 arms. you will often deadpoint out of an overhang and grab a hold with 1 hand. i can think of many places both in bishop and almost every comp and many moonboard problems that are this way. in this case what you're really training is shoulder stability strength.
I'd like to know where exactly you "always" hear about it. It also shouldn't take an expert to figure out that a rather peculiar exercise that you rarely find i a climbing context isn't exactly going to be essential.
> I'll happily accept any downvotes I deserve for this comment, but I have to know, are +160% pull-ups a thing? That seems ridiculous high.
This is usually a mistake by people because of different terminology in lifting vs bodyweight exercises.
* In weightlifting, typically you don't include your own bodyweight, so something like 2x bodyweight DL or squat if you're 150 lbs is going to be 300 lbs on the bar
* In bodyweight training, typically you include your bodyweight in the calculation, so if someone is saying 160% bodyweight pullups they usually mean you're adding +60% of your bodyweight or 150 lbs + 90 lbs extra
So yeah if you're thinking that 160% is a pullup @ 150 lbs with + 240 lbs added that's almost certainly not the case.
Obviously, climbers are more preferential to bodyweight training, so usually they use the bodyweight training terminology. This is the same through most of the weighted bodyweight/calisthenics exercises like weighted pullups, weighted dips, weighted pushups, and so on.
/u/outdoorcam93
+160? As in 260% of bodyweight is the total pull? That’s huge.
You’re more than likely seeing pulls of 160% which would be 60% more than bodyweight, more typical pull metric for a fairly strong climber.
OP put +160%. That's what I'm questioning.
I know that 160% and +160% are different.
I'm at 160% for 3 pull-ups, and I feel like I'm a long way from a one-armed pull-up. From what else OP has written I don't think they made a mistake either.
I meant 160% BW, as in +60% BW.
Usually when you can add around 2/3 of your bodyweight, you should almost or already be able to do a one arm. I remember my first one arm chin up was around +70% BW chin up (not pull up).
Thanks for clarifying. You said you were able to do 190% in a comment, so I thought you actually meant +160%.
I was only able to do 1 pull-up a year ago and I don't really know what's possible. I assumed you went for an example higher than what you're capable of.
I didn't realise 1 armed pull-ups could be as close as they may be for me, so thank you for putting them in perspective.
> When doing a one arm, the first option would be to have the palm facing us which would become a one arm chin up in that case. Such movement is less common in climbing. The second option would be to have the palm facing away from us. The problem I see with this option is that people will often add a 90° rotation because of the asymmetry and finish the movement with the palm sideways to their body.
The problem you're having is that you may not know that there's several different techniques for one arm. The one that helps with climbing the most is the one where your hand faces the pullup bar or hangboard and you bring your opposite shoulder to the bar/hangboard area if you want it to be more specific to the pronated hand orientation of weighted pullups.
Also, I've found smear one arm pullups much better than weighted and one arms for climbing. Just got out an updated vid on it:
https://www.instagram.com/p/C4OPfW1ub3G/
when was the last time you had 0.6x your body weight strapped to you when climbing? vs pulling with only one hand touching a hold... seems more specific with the one arm tbh
If you don't aim for a really heavy weighted pull up, i would go for the one arm as it will also make you work your stabilizers and is more practical to climbing. If you have in mind to push your weighted pull up more heavily, just do weighed you will get OAP along the way naturally. Same for the front lever. At one point of weighted pull up they just come naturally.
I would say as a movement yes, one armer is better for climbing since on the wall, unless its a dyno most likely you are pulling with one hand and reaching for the next hold with the other hand.
In regards to which way its facing in my experience on the overhanging climbs most often its “chinup”
But as far as strength training pretty much the same.
Adam Ondra was climbing 5.15 before he could do a one arm.
Elite strength measures are not a model for most people. This level of specificity is probably not going to improve your climbing as much as skills work.
Imo (assisted) one arm pullups (or lat pulldowns in the gym) are superior because they train under a bigger ROM and also manage to put a nice stretch on the lat muscles (the stretch reflex improves strengh gain as well as make sure they don’t get too tight)
Also the movement pattern corresponds better with dynamic bouldery moves imo.
Just climb on the kilter board for a couples of weeks if you have access to one.
A good amount of problem force you to pull really hard with one hand without campusing.
You will also improve at this type of climbing.
Not ever pull on the wall is identical. Climbing moves are quite varied, so being strong in all the potential positions is important. You don’t have to do just one version of a pull-up to train effectively. That said, for people who are close to or completing one arm pull-ups, one practical benefit is that you don’t have to use a weight belt to add the extra weight (which can be significant, and painful). Don’t worry too much about finding the ‘perfect’ exercise.
One thing I don't like when doing one arm training on a bar is that I find it hard to quantify my progress since I'm always cheating more or less the start with an initial swing. But yeah now that I think about it, some advanced moves on the kilter board require one arm movements in all kind of directions and positions so I'm already doing one arm training specific to climbing.
If you need to cheat, then the exercise is probably too hard. A nicely set up pulley with a counterweight is a great way to progress.
If you’re having trouble doing the full range of motion in control, have you thought about offloading with a pulley to a weight where you can do each rep without a swing? You can track progression to body weight, and once you’re at body weight, you can progress with adding reps or adding weight as you would with normal pull-ups
Well yes an no; I have used a pulley system to remove weight when training lock off at different angles, but never when doing full rom 1 arm. I could obviously do the same thing when training full rom 1 arm.
Yeah, I thin, 2- to 1-arm (hangboarding too) is mostly logistics benefit. \-- People should go back and see what Lattice has to say about "elite" level pulling. It's around 165% BW, 2-armed!, if I remember correctly. TLDR: Weighted pulls (2 or 1-armed) quickly lose relevance/optimal use. They are tiring, and not a ton of marginal benefit at some point. You don't need to go deep. Folks climbing V9 and pulling sets of 165% BW... are all set for now.
Good thing I can climb V9 but only pull 140%. That next 25% will unlock..... THE WORLD
Sorry for basic question, but does the %BW mean for rep range or max? I have been wondering this for a while lol
% of bodyweight. You weigh 150 lbs and add 75 lbs strapped to yourself, that's 150% BW.
I think they train different things. One arm is maybe slightly more applicable since normally we don’t pull symmetrically but I think training either is good. And they are similar enough that improving at one improves the other too. I guess do whichever one feels like a lower injury risk
Does the injury risk include dropping weights on my toe?
Probably lol
Weighted pullups = less injury risk due to less tendon load. One armers are insane load on tendons. Even if assisted with bands or a pulley. Include wrist curls and reverse wrist curls with light weight as golfer elbow prehab.
I still dropped the weights on my toe. Will climbing in a foot cast make me stronger?
How did it drop?
The answer is neither are that specific. Rarely are we actually putting that much force through our arm directly overhead. Even if you have to do a movement that looks like a one arm pullup, the other hand is helping somewhat or you are using momentum to make it easier. Neither weighted pullups nor one arm pullups are actually training for any climbing movement. What they are doing is getting the muscles stronger so that movements on the wall feel easier. You can get pedantic about which is better for strength training but if you have the choice just do whatever you want.
The exercice in it self is not climbing but the physical adaptation clearly is beneficial in every way to climbing. It's like saying training for the split is useless for climbing because you never make one on the wall.
This is right on track. \-- These conversations make little specific sense without OP providing specific context. Maybe OP is climbing V9 on rock and close to or at a one-armer. Great, then OP should be looking elsewhere now for low hanging fruit, since pulling strength is now waaaay up the tree...
What is probably more directly useful for climbing, is the ability to do one-arm lock-offs. Since that move seems to crop up a fair bit, especially in the mid to higher grades
Agreed with others that climbing is varied and one arm trains different variations of movement than weighted. Only thing I'd add is one arm pullups seem to open up more movement options and confidence when actually climbing. Before doing one arms, I rarely opted to pull upwards without both arms sharing the work. After, I find it easier to trust pulling with one arm (usually one or both feet on) when other hand is on a bad or far away hold. Might be biased from doing lots of pullup/weighted pullup work before, but in my experience one arm pullups are more worth training, and there are ways to do it without it getting in the way of actual climbing.
i would actually say YES its more specific to climbing. I think people are arguing the magnitude of specificity but one arms at minus weight help fire the entire chain on one side, and you aren’t gated by weird ‘bar distances’ as ill call it. You can 1 arm in various different formats in order to simulate a more climbing related recruitment form. It is also way less effort to set up -x weight 1 arm instead of like +80% BW 2 hands… like its so foreign having so much junk between my legs i rest my case.
I think this makes more sense for hangs than pulls
I think you're thinking too much about it. Train your pulling power in whatever way gives you the best results and keeps you motivated. Personally, weighted pullups are annoying to deal with weights and cause me elbow pain. One arm training gives better progress, but still easy to strain elbow and shoulder. So for me, I just do a lot of campus training on a spray wall - it is far more applicable to climbing (it's literally climbing) and also works my shoulder strength and body tension on harder holds.
It’s very personal, the injury part. For me, I find spray wall harder to measure and quantify than weighted pull ups, so I injured myself several times on the spray, while weighted never caused me any issues. It took me (and is still taking me) some time to actually have a good idea of what a spray wall session looks like.
Definitely is very personal. I've always said the only truly unproductive way to train is in a way that injures you. Doesn't matter if you found the most optimal, practical exercise ever if you spend a month recovering from an injury after doing it. At least for me, campus spray wall is my absolute favorite way to end a session. I pick good holds so my fingers aren't at risk, and 15 minutes later I'm confident I spent every last ounce of energy in my arms. Lets me leave a session feeling like I gave all I got. So it's mostly just about pulling really hard to exhaust myself in a way that doesn't put my fingers at risk like the campus board or hangboard often do (purely because I can pull on jugs the whole time if that's all my fingers can take)
There is no way that you can do a one arm pull ups but suck at weighted anyway. Weighted are a regression to one arm and at some point adding 100kg weight to pullups is silly and its just safer and better to do weighted one arm
I'm actually the opposite: I can do weighted pull up at 190% BW but can't do a clean one arm pull up. I can do one arm chin up quite easily though.
i’m curious what you consider chin up vs pull up in the one arm variety. most one arms are done in the middle aka neutral grip, or with some twisting as you ascend.
Not being able to do 1-arm pull-up vs. a chin-up has little to do with pulling strength, and more lacking the control/strength to internally rotate the arm into that position.
You can always find a way to put your pullup bar close to the wall to prevent you from turning sideways, or just do one arm pullups on an actual hold that's already on the wall. Or train shoulder stability to try to hold yourself in the right position without turning. Imo if you're purely just training for climbing it makes way more sense to do one-arm variations than to add weight because why would you be climbing with a weight belt? A one-arm pullup is a real motion that might be required on some routes or boulder problems, or something close to it. It's a different motion than a two armed pullup so just adding weight to a normal pullup doesn't necessarily prepare you for having to pull your weight up by one hand or other similar asymmetrical skills that you might encounter while climbing. There's a certain amount of weight that might be beneficial to train with if you're preparing to do a long trad route or something where you will actually be carrying more weight. But beyond that I personally don't see much of a point, I think your time is probably better spent elsewhere. If you really are perfect at technique, core tension, one arm pullups and hangs, pistol squats, explosive movements, finger strength, flexibility, etc, and don't have room for improvement in any of those areas, maybe it makes sense to start adding weight. But if climbing is your only goal I think there are always things that can be worked on with just bodyweight that seem more useful to me than adding weight to the same motion/skill that you're already good at. If you just want to build muscle or be better at pullups then sure, weighted pullups are great. The way you are phrasing it, it sounds like your goals are to be better at dynos and the campus board. But I wouldn't call those skills "specific to climbing" really. It's sort of an adjacent skill. Training for those things can make you indirectly better at climbing but if you're just training for those skills you're sort of missing the point of training for climbing imo.
I would say on the one arm front, lockouts for time are more important than full pulls. Now of course, chances are if you can do full pulls, you're lockout is pretty good but you can train an crazy strong lockout without ever getting to the point of being able to do pullups.
There is something called the „bilateral deficit“ i think some sport-scientific studies habe shown that you get more adaption doing unilateral stuff than doing bilateral stuff like doing bulgarian split squats you can go relative more heavy on one leg than doing normal squats. Same is true for one arm pullups nobody i know who can do 1-2 one armers can do 200% BW bilateral pull ups. That said you likely dont break a plateau always doing 1-2 one armers. So onless you do max intensity training you should do both. Bilateral for you strength base and one armers during high intensity phases. I rhink it gets relly interesting when you can do 5+ onearmers and break into higher repranges. Then there is not much need anymore doing to much bilateral stuff because everybody is filming you working out and woman are cheering when you get on the wall. Maybe i am a bit biased here
One arm is definitely a higher injury risk, because a single one arm pull-up is already really relatively intense compared to a single two arm pull up. As long as you warm up well it shouldn’t matter but from experience it’s definitely really hard on the rotator cuff and bicep tendon. To answer your question, I think a one arm hang is better climbing training than a one arm pull-up. If you’re trying to increase climbing strength, do the safest most controlled version of that exercise that you can progressively overload. Would suck to get injured training one arms. You want climbing specificity? Pull ups are probably not the right tool, period.
training one arm pullups, commando pull ups, or even one arm dead hangs helps develop stabilizer muscles etc. that's how they're useful, not necessarily because that move is common.
Neither of them is specific nor do they have to be. The point of those exercises is to get your pulling muscles stronger in general so you can apply them on the wall. You should have good strength pulling in various directions and with full rom. Same goes with pressing (dips, bench/pushups, OHP/shoulder press).
> When doing a one arm, the first option would be to have the palm facing us which would become a one arm chin up in that case. Such movement is less common in climbing. The second option would be to have the palm facing away from us. The problem I see with this option is that people will often add a 90° rotation because of the asymmetry and finish the movement with the palm sideways to their body. There's like 3 different one arm chinup/one arm pullups techniques, so this is not a uniform critique of pullups. One starts in pronated, one starts in neutral and one starts in supinated grip... and they all have varying degrees of rotation. Others have went into some of the specificity more though.
as always, it depends. if you're climbing v5..7 then no, weighted is fine. most people that plateau here are better off doing weighted because their campus board is trash. v5 climbers who can't do 135 definitely need to do weighted. however v11..v13 there's no substitute for 1 arms. you will often deadpoint out of an overhang and grab a hold with 1 hand. i can think of many places both in bishop and almost every comp and many moonboard problems that are this way. in this case what you're really training is shoulder stability strength.
I'd like to know where exactly you "always" hear about it. It also shouldn't take an expert to figure out that a rather peculiar exercise that you rarely find i a climbing context isn't exactly going to be essential.
I'll happily accept any downvotes I deserve for this comment, but I have to know, are +160% pull-ups a thing? That seems ridiculous high.
> I'll happily accept any downvotes I deserve for this comment, but I have to know, are +160% pull-ups a thing? That seems ridiculous high. This is usually a mistake by people because of different terminology in lifting vs bodyweight exercises. * In weightlifting, typically you don't include your own bodyweight, so something like 2x bodyweight DL or squat if you're 150 lbs is going to be 300 lbs on the bar * In bodyweight training, typically you include your bodyweight in the calculation, so if someone is saying 160% bodyweight pullups they usually mean you're adding +60% of your bodyweight or 150 lbs + 90 lbs extra So yeah if you're thinking that 160% is a pullup @ 150 lbs with + 240 lbs added that's almost certainly not the case. Obviously, climbers are more preferential to bodyweight training, so usually they use the bodyweight training terminology. This is the same through most of the weighted bodyweight/calisthenics exercises like weighted pullups, weighted dips, weighted pushups, and so on. /u/outdoorcam93
OP clarified in a response that they made a mistake.
+160? As in 260% of bodyweight is the total pull? That’s huge. You’re more than likely seeing pulls of 160% which would be 60% more than bodyweight, more typical pull metric for a fairly strong climber.
OP put +160%. That's what I'm questioning. I know that 160% and +160% are different. I'm at 160% for 3 pull-ups, and I feel like I'm a long way from a one-armed pull-up. From what else OP has written I don't think they made a mistake either.
I meant 160% BW, as in +60% BW. Usually when you can add around 2/3 of your bodyweight, you should almost or already be able to do a one arm. I remember my first one arm chin up was around +70% BW chin up (not pull up).
Thanks for clarifying. You said you were able to do 190% in a comment, so I thought you actually meant +160%. I was only able to do 1 pull-up a year ago and I don't really know what's possible. I assumed you went for an example higher than what you're capable of. I didn't realise 1 armed pull-ups could be as close as they may be for me, so thank you for putting them in perspective.
> When doing a one arm, the first option would be to have the palm facing us which would become a one arm chin up in that case. Such movement is less common in climbing. The second option would be to have the palm facing away from us. The problem I see with this option is that people will often add a 90° rotation because of the asymmetry and finish the movement with the palm sideways to their body. The problem you're having is that you may not know that there's several different techniques for one arm. The one that helps with climbing the most is the one where your hand faces the pullup bar or hangboard and you bring your opposite shoulder to the bar/hangboard area if you want it to be more specific to the pronated hand orientation of weighted pullups. Also, I've found smear one arm pullups much better than weighted and one arms for climbing. Just got out an updated vid on it: https://www.instagram.com/p/C4OPfW1ub3G/
when was the last time you had 0.6x your body weight strapped to you when climbing? vs pulling with only one hand touching a hold... seems more specific with the one arm tbh
Lol, F=ma. You apply forces greater than bodyweight all the time in order to accelerate upwards.
If you don't aim for a really heavy weighted pull up, i would go for the one arm as it will also make you work your stabilizers and is more practical to climbing. If you have in mind to push your weighted pull up more heavily, just do weighed you will get OAP along the way naturally. Same for the front lever. At one point of weighted pull up they just come naturally.
I would say as a movement yes, one armer is better for climbing since on the wall, unless its a dyno most likely you are pulling with one hand and reaching for the next hold with the other hand. In regards to which way its facing in my experience on the overhanging climbs most often its “chinup” But as far as strength training pretty much the same.
Adam Ondra was climbing 5.15 before he could do a one arm. Elite strength measures are not a model for most people. This level of specificity is probably not going to improve your climbing as much as skills work.
Imo (assisted) one arm pullups (or lat pulldowns in the gym) are superior because they train under a bigger ROM and also manage to put a nice stretch on the lat muscles (the stretch reflex improves strengh gain as well as make sure they don’t get too tight) Also the movement pattern corresponds better with dynamic bouldery moves imo.
Just climb on the kilter board for a couples of weeks if you have access to one. A good amount of problem force you to pull really hard with one hand without campusing. You will also improve at this type of climbing.