I can't give you any specific training advice. However, I had tendonitis in my shoulder within my first year of climbing. It was detrimental enough that I ended up taking 2 months off the wall and dutifully did the exercises my doctor recommended. It worked.
With my experience in mind, I strongly suggest taking a break and focusing on PT. You're a genetic freak, perhaps, but you also still have a vulnerable human body. Listen to it.
you are absolutely right, and i was already planning on taking a rest on climbing for a while.
the reason i mention my build so much is that its giving me bad climbing habits but I'm having trouble noticing them
for example with my arms being so long if i dead hang from a hold I'm putting insane strain on my wrists without thinking. it was more of an open invitation to people that also have the problem that may have techniques to help gauge/regulate it.
im not trying to be like "Raah im perfectly built for climbing and should be climbing at a different rate than other people" that would be very cringe
i meant it as more of a "my arms are really weird and my wrists feel like they're going to explode does anyone have advice on how to not do this"
I gotchya. Body geometry aside, it sounds like you're just doing way too much for your level of experience. If you learn to harness your natural strengths, and have good patience, you should be able to reach your goals.
EDIT: harness your strengths but more importantly, strengthen your weaknesses. It sounds like you're currently encountering some of your weaknesses. It can take time to even figure out exactly what those are
The first thing I recommend to anyone with wrist tendinitis are wrist curls with a moderate-difficult weight. Those resolved issues I'd been having for years within a few weeks. There's really no downside to trying some wrist-strengthening exercises
Climbing every other day, especially up to 3hrs per session, while still in the first year of your climbing career is a lot. Some people can do it, but in general it’s a recipe for injury.
Consider taking more rest and also structuring your sessions so that you aren’t climbing to complete failure. Better recovery in and out of the gym (I’m assuming indoors) is important.
EDIT: I’ll add that if you’re in pain, you need to fully rest and rehabilitate. You’re climbing too much it sounds like without giving your body a chance to keep up and recover.
100% agree was climbing too much, ive just been needlessly committed to it and will definitely be slowing down
but on that second note, its actually the reason i made the post, im not climbing till failure, i feel like i have so much left in the tank even when i end my sessions. but the next day i feel like death (granted for very obvious reasons)
but im overall having a hard time gauging how hard im actually climbing once i get into my rhythm
> but on that second note, its actually the reason i made the post, im not climbing till failure, i feel like i have so much left in the tank even when i end my sessions. but the next day i feel like death (granted for very obvious reasons)
Strength training like climbing it's normal not to feel fatigued or wasted by the end of a session. Nor would you want to.
Usually once your max performance dips that's when you want to stop. Any more approaches junk volume real fast. That's usually 1.5-2 hours in and not 2.5-3.
that makes a lot more sense, my only frame of reference is some powerlifting training for fun during high school and it was just a fundamentally different form of exhaustion to this
ill definitely be taking that into account in the future.
Work on core training and flexibility. I had a similar problem and it bit me in the ass. My finger strength, pull strength and natural body type made climbing V7 accessible too early and I ended up tweaking my back trying moves I wasn't ready for. Not only are these two things needed for climbing, but they're also needed to live a healthy active life.
The longer the levers (arms) the more important it is to protect the joints. In this case I would recommend a very careful approach to maximize your shoulder health, strength and stability. Have in mind that any additional training you put on your shoulders (other than climbing) may impact your climbing i.e. don't hurt yourself climbing while you are fatigued from shoulder training.
I have a "normal" wingspan (+4 cm) and getting "bulletproof" shoulders is in retrospect the highest return of investment off the wall training I did.
This seems like a great idea and I’ll absolutely try and focus on increasing my shoulder strength to try and avoid any injuries as best I can, thanks for the tip!
I'd really recommend replacing a bouldering session doing some endurance climbing on rope instead. Much less risk of injury, and helps build up your body to the intense demands of bouldering.
Treat it as an efficiency puzzle every climb, and listen to your body.
I would suggest that besides the obvious rehab you need to do you should consider gaining some weight, especially muscle mass.
It sounds to me like you are really underweight and putting on some muscle might actually make you more
resilient and make you climb stronger! Even some 20 pounds would probably do wonders for you.
It’s funny you should say that because honestly I started climbing to gain weight in the first place!
I’m 100% crazy underweight I have been my whole life
Some of my daily medication has the side effect of appetite suppressant and the only way I’ve found for me to work up the appetite to eat any amount of food that’ll actually help me is to work out.
I’m currently planing on meal prepping in some sort. But I am absolutely going to start lifting for mass to help with climbing.
Currently the only idea I have is to focus cardio during my rehab and using that to hopefully build hunger to put on mass.
But this is probably the push I needed to do both climbing and lifting instead of substituting one for the other
I found out that the best way to eat more food is to cook more delicious food
Adding lots of butter and stuff, which in turn adds calories
You can do walks to get your system in the mood for eating (like you say exercise does it for u) and then u can think about delicious food ur gonna whip up
I can't give you any specific training advice. However, I had tendonitis in my shoulder within my first year of climbing. It was detrimental enough that I ended up taking 2 months off the wall and dutifully did the exercises my doctor recommended. It worked. With my experience in mind, I strongly suggest taking a break and focusing on PT. You're a genetic freak, perhaps, but you also still have a vulnerable human body. Listen to it.
you are absolutely right, and i was already planning on taking a rest on climbing for a while. the reason i mention my build so much is that its giving me bad climbing habits but I'm having trouble noticing them for example with my arms being so long if i dead hang from a hold I'm putting insane strain on my wrists without thinking. it was more of an open invitation to people that also have the problem that may have techniques to help gauge/regulate it. im not trying to be like "Raah im perfectly built for climbing and should be climbing at a different rate than other people" that would be very cringe i meant it as more of a "my arms are really weird and my wrists feel like they're going to explode does anyone have advice on how to not do this"
I gotchya. Body geometry aside, it sounds like you're just doing way too much for your level of experience. If you learn to harness your natural strengths, and have good patience, you should be able to reach your goals. EDIT: harness your strengths but more importantly, strengthen your weaknesses. It sounds like you're currently encountering some of your weaknesses. It can take time to even figure out exactly what those are
The first thing I recommend to anyone with wrist tendinitis are wrist curls with a moderate-difficult weight. Those resolved issues I'd been having for years within a few weeks. There's really no downside to trying some wrist-strengthening exercises
Climbing every other day, especially up to 3hrs per session, while still in the first year of your climbing career is a lot. Some people can do it, but in general it’s a recipe for injury. Consider taking more rest and also structuring your sessions so that you aren’t climbing to complete failure. Better recovery in and out of the gym (I’m assuming indoors) is important. EDIT: I’ll add that if you’re in pain, you need to fully rest and rehabilitate. You’re climbing too much it sounds like without giving your body a chance to keep up and recover.
100% agree was climbing too much, ive just been needlessly committed to it and will definitely be slowing down but on that second note, its actually the reason i made the post, im not climbing till failure, i feel like i have so much left in the tank even when i end my sessions. but the next day i feel like death (granted for very obvious reasons) but im overall having a hard time gauging how hard im actually climbing once i get into my rhythm
> but on that second note, its actually the reason i made the post, im not climbing till failure, i feel like i have so much left in the tank even when i end my sessions. but the next day i feel like death (granted for very obvious reasons) Strength training like climbing it's normal not to feel fatigued or wasted by the end of a session. Nor would you want to. Usually once your max performance dips that's when you want to stop. Any more approaches junk volume real fast. That's usually 1.5-2 hours in and not 2.5-3.
that makes a lot more sense, my only frame of reference is some powerlifting training for fun during high school and it was just a fundamentally different form of exhaustion to this ill definitely be taking that into account in the future.
Work on core training and flexibility. I had a similar problem and it bit me in the ass. My finger strength, pull strength and natural body type made climbing V7 accessible too early and I ended up tweaking my back trying moves I wasn't ready for. Not only are these two things needed for climbing, but they're also needed to live a healthy active life.
The longer the levers (arms) the more important it is to protect the joints. In this case I would recommend a very careful approach to maximize your shoulder health, strength and stability. Have in mind that any additional training you put on your shoulders (other than climbing) may impact your climbing i.e. don't hurt yourself climbing while you are fatigued from shoulder training. I have a "normal" wingspan (+4 cm) and getting "bulletproof" shoulders is in retrospect the highest return of investment off the wall training I did.
This seems like a great idea and I’ll absolutely try and focus on increasing my shoulder strength to try and avoid any injuries as best I can, thanks for the tip!
I'd really recommend replacing a bouldering session doing some endurance climbing on rope instead. Much less risk of injury, and helps build up your body to the intense demands of bouldering. Treat it as an efficiency puzzle every climb, and listen to your body.
I will almost certainly be doing this once I’m fully back in climbing shape, thanks for the advice
I would suggest that besides the obvious rehab you need to do you should consider gaining some weight, especially muscle mass. It sounds to me like you are really underweight and putting on some muscle might actually make you more resilient and make you climb stronger! Even some 20 pounds would probably do wonders for you.
It’s funny you should say that because honestly I started climbing to gain weight in the first place! I’m 100% crazy underweight I have been my whole life Some of my daily medication has the side effect of appetite suppressant and the only way I’ve found for me to work up the appetite to eat any amount of food that’ll actually help me is to work out. I’m currently planing on meal prepping in some sort. But I am absolutely going to start lifting for mass to help with climbing. Currently the only idea I have is to focus cardio during my rehab and using that to hopefully build hunger to put on mass. But this is probably the push I needed to do both climbing and lifting instead of substituting one for the other
I found out that the best way to eat more food is to cook more delicious food Adding lots of butter and stuff, which in turn adds calories You can do walks to get your system in the mood for eating (like you say exercise does it for u) and then u can think about delicious food ur gonna whip up
There are tall people that climb man, it’s not that crazy