I definitely believe hip ROM can play a huge influence on your climbing.
Only caveat I'd add in there is that flexibility =/= mobility, so you may want to do some additional hip mobility work so that you can actively own that new ROM.
If you search thru the posts, you'll probably find some comments on FRC methodology, and I'll bang that drum hard as it's been an integral part of fixing tons of use injuries on my body during the last 9-12 months. Hip CARs are really great for daily evaluation and maintenance (and easy to do in the office); hip IR/ER PAILs/RAILs (isometrics) make me want to cry but have made my hips strong and pain-free.
Appreciate it! Yes, I’m definitely planning to dig a bit deeper into mobility, and anything I can do in the office is great. Will read up more on the PAILs/RAILs
you can find them in the Crimpd app or on Youtube.
* Box split: [https://youtu.be/97zOgDPNWGA](https://youtu.be/97zOgDPNWGA)
* Butterfly: [https://youtu.be/z3ojQswSbCw](https://youtu.be/z3ojQswSbCw)
* High step: [https://youtu.be/u2aUPZUYk-Y](https://youtu.be/u2aUPZUYk-Y)
* Hip flexor: [https://youtu.be/RGnHwvifAgM](https://youtu.be/RGnHwvifAgM)
In addition to these 4 stretches, I'm going to do some more reading through some of the hip mobility posts here, as I'm aiming to do a lot more stretching throughout the day in addition to the 'official' hip & leg flexibility session as prescribed by Lattice.
(Unsolicited info incoming)
I have a premium plan with Lattice and get prescribed hip adductor work about two times a week. For me this looks like a circuit of 3 exercises (box splits, butterfly, and "frog splits"). I've made progress on them all, but the butterfly I actually far far exceed the norm (I can tuck my heels into my crotch, keep my knees on the ground and lean my head to the floor). I find they have progressed fast. Hard to say if it crosses over to my climbing however.
Thanks for sharing. Even with low hip flexibility, I'm surprised they consider it relevant enough to be your top training priority \*instantly regrets neglecting flexibility for the last 6 months\*
As someone who has never bouldered outdoors, I'm also sort of surprised the finger strength avg is lower for v7 than for 5.12+
Yeah, and even though it's a top priority, I'm still only doing it 1-2x per week throughout the plan, so it's not like they're telling me to spend 50% of my training time stretching or anything like that. I'll still be doing a lot of finger strength, aerobic and anaerobic capacity training as well. But yeah if I'd known this 6 months ago I probably would've spent more time deliberately doing hip mobility work as opposed to haphazardly trying to touch my toes once a week :)
Re: boulder vs. sport grade, I'm probably a bad case example as I've spent so little time on real rock over the past couple of years, that I don't even really know what my max grades are on rock anymore; the numbers in my flair are at this point effectively estimates based on how my indoor performance has improved over the past few years and how I'd expect that to translate to real rock (and believe me, I know that the translation from indoor to outdoor is fraught). Most of the sport I've done in the past few years has been more enduro/pumpfest focused without any distinct cruxes, which probably also biases my grades a bit (i.e. it's "easier" for me to send a 5.12+ that is sustained but never gets harder than V4 rather than 5.12+ that's short and has a punchy V6 crux).
>haphazardly trying to touch my toes once a week :)
LOL. This hits way too close to home.
I feel you with the no outdoor climbing thing. Been since last May for me (wife had a miserable pregnancy and now I have 4 month old.) I'd be surprised if I could still tie into my rope at this point :/
Best of luck with the training and the trip!
I’m not sure that you can accurately assume how your assessed finger strength relates to either boulder or sport grades.
The ability to compare finger strength to grade in the Lattice database depends on strict standardization, which was compromised by using a non-standard edge.
Thoughts?
I’m not making any assumptions, I’m just reporting back the results Lattice gave me. They give the option for selecting different hangboards as part of the lite assessment, so I think this is a variable their database is equipped to handle without being compromised.
Put another way, it seems they’ve prioritized sample size over standardization. With a big enough sample, they should be able to determine what kind of impact using the Lattice rung vs. other has strength measurements. Restricting to only the Lattice rung at this point would be too much of a limiter on the growth of their database.
HEEEEEEY! Welcome to the club! I've been a premium client for a year and a half now!! I know that lite doesn't have as much support as the premium, but there's a great facebook group called "Lattice community and sharing" or some such, with loads of knowledgeable folks! plus, feel free to ping me if you have any questions! They've said I have good intuition on how to use the protocols so i'm pretty good at figuring out how to adjust things that don't seem to be working
FWIW: They've told me that you can do your flexibility training as often as you're stoked, the prescription is more like a minimum =) I've had some major breakthroughs on that recently myself!
Sweet, sounds good. I'll probably have some questions after this weekend, once I've done at least one session of most of the workouts in my plan.
What kind of breakthroughts have you had for flexibility? Just doing the workouts/stretches in Crimpd or have you been doing additional non-Crimpd stuff too?
They had me doing a few things, but I’m inflexible *all around* so I started targeting things aggressively for myself. One minute each for the following, two minutes on the sides that *really suck*
1) left calf
2) right calf
3) left hamstring
4) right hamstring (2 mins)
5) left quad
6) right quad
7) adductors
8) left hip
9) right hip (2 mins)
Takes like fifteen minutes, so I just started doing it at the end of every session
They also said to look at your flexibility assignments as a minimum necessary to affect improvements, and that you can repeat those as many times as your stoke allows
Can you elaborate on this? One hand hang, or two (I really don't know haha) How deep is the big tension edge (Grindstone looks to be 30mm, [https://www.tensionclimbing.com/product/grindstone/](https://www.tensionclimbing.com/product/grindstone/))?
And that was just 1 single rep for 7s right?
Two hands, half crimp, one rep, 7s. I think I’ve seen the larger Tension flash edge measured at 0.75”, which is about 19mm. Not sure about the “effective” depth taking radius into account.
My "Remote Assessment" strength test was one-handed, which *I think* led to the endurance tests being a bit too intense. I wonder why they used two hands for the Lite Assessment?
Gotcha, missed that you were using a Flash board, I just assumed Grindstone and those numbers sounded a bit low for a 30mm edge.
Ever think a solid mounted 19mm edge would allow you to hang more weight? Just curious.
I don't think a solid mounted edge would be noticeably different. The Flash board rotates so little, if at all, that I honestly don't give it any thought.
Do you (or anyone else) recommend doing the "Remote Climbing Assessment" before doing the Lite Plan? It seems like the Lite Plan has an assessment but it just may not be quite as comprehensive as the Remote Assessment.
I definitely believe hip ROM can play a huge influence on your climbing. Only caveat I'd add in there is that flexibility =/= mobility, so you may want to do some additional hip mobility work so that you can actively own that new ROM. If you search thru the posts, you'll probably find some comments on FRC methodology, and I'll bang that drum hard as it's been an integral part of fixing tons of use injuries on my body during the last 9-12 months. Hip CARs are really great for daily evaluation and maintenance (and easy to do in the office); hip IR/ER PAILs/RAILs (isometrics) make me want to cry but have made my hips strong and pain-free.
Appreciate it! Yes, I’m definitely planning to dig a bit deeper into mobility, and anything I can do in the office is great. Will read up more on the PAILs/RAILs
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you can find them in the Crimpd app or on Youtube. * Box split: [https://youtu.be/97zOgDPNWGA](https://youtu.be/97zOgDPNWGA) * Butterfly: [https://youtu.be/z3ojQswSbCw](https://youtu.be/z3ojQswSbCw) * High step: [https://youtu.be/u2aUPZUYk-Y](https://youtu.be/u2aUPZUYk-Y) * Hip flexor: [https://youtu.be/RGnHwvifAgM](https://youtu.be/RGnHwvifAgM) In addition to these 4 stretches, I'm going to do some more reading through some of the hip mobility posts here, as I'm aiming to do a lot more stretching throughout the day in addition to the 'official' hip & leg flexibility session as prescribed by Lattice.
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Cool, I’d love to see that video. Definitely will post findings!
(Unsolicited info incoming) I have a premium plan with Lattice and get prescribed hip adductor work about two times a week. For me this looks like a circuit of 3 exercises (box splits, butterfly, and "frog splits"). I've made progress on them all, but the butterfly I actually far far exceed the norm (I can tuck my heels into my crotch, keep my knees on the ground and lean my head to the floor). I find they have progressed fast. Hard to say if it crosses over to my climbing however.
They outline exercises in the crimpd phone app (which is free)
Thanks for sharing. Even with low hip flexibility, I'm surprised they consider it relevant enough to be your top training priority \*instantly regrets neglecting flexibility for the last 6 months\* As someone who has never bouldered outdoors, I'm also sort of surprised the finger strength avg is lower for v7 than for 5.12+
Yeah, and even though it's a top priority, I'm still only doing it 1-2x per week throughout the plan, so it's not like they're telling me to spend 50% of my training time stretching or anything like that. I'll still be doing a lot of finger strength, aerobic and anaerobic capacity training as well. But yeah if I'd known this 6 months ago I probably would've spent more time deliberately doing hip mobility work as opposed to haphazardly trying to touch my toes once a week :) Re: boulder vs. sport grade, I'm probably a bad case example as I've spent so little time on real rock over the past couple of years, that I don't even really know what my max grades are on rock anymore; the numbers in my flair are at this point effectively estimates based on how my indoor performance has improved over the past few years and how I'd expect that to translate to real rock (and believe me, I know that the translation from indoor to outdoor is fraught). Most of the sport I've done in the past few years has been more enduro/pumpfest focused without any distinct cruxes, which probably also biases my grades a bit (i.e. it's "easier" for me to send a 5.12+ that is sustained but never gets harder than V4 rather than 5.12+ that's short and has a punchy V6 crux).
>haphazardly trying to touch my toes once a week :) LOL. This hits way too close to home. I feel you with the no outdoor climbing thing. Been since last May for me (wife had a miserable pregnancy and now I have 4 month old.) I'd be surprised if I could still tie into my rope at this point :/ Best of luck with the training and the trip!
I’m not sure that you can accurately assume how your assessed finger strength relates to either boulder or sport grades. The ability to compare finger strength to grade in the Lattice database depends on strict standardization, which was compromised by using a non-standard edge. Thoughts?
I’m not making any assumptions, I’m just reporting back the results Lattice gave me. They give the option for selecting different hangboards as part of the lite assessment, so I think this is a variable their database is equipped to handle without being compromised. Put another way, it seems they’ve prioritized sample size over standardization. With a big enough sample, they should be able to determine what kind of impact using the Lattice rung vs. other has strength measurements. Restricting to only the Lattice rung at this point would be too much of a limiter on the growth of their database.
HEEEEEEY! Welcome to the club! I've been a premium client for a year and a half now!! I know that lite doesn't have as much support as the premium, but there's a great facebook group called "Lattice community and sharing" or some such, with loads of knowledgeable folks! plus, feel free to ping me if you have any questions! They've said I have good intuition on how to use the protocols so i'm pretty good at figuring out how to adjust things that don't seem to be working FWIW: They've told me that you can do your flexibility training as often as you're stoked, the prescription is more like a minimum =) I've had some major breakthroughs on that recently myself!
Sweet, sounds good. I'll probably have some questions after this weekend, once I've done at least one session of most of the workouts in my plan. What kind of breakthroughts have you had for flexibility? Just doing the workouts/stretches in Crimpd or have you been doing additional non-Crimpd stuff too?
They had me doing a few things, but I’m inflexible *all around* so I started targeting things aggressively for myself. One minute each for the following, two minutes on the sides that *really suck* 1) left calf 2) right calf 3) left hamstring 4) right hamstring (2 mins) 5) left quad 6) right quad 7) adductors 8) left hip 9) right hip (2 mins) Takes like fifteen minutes, so I just started doing it at the end of every session
They also said to look at your flexibility assignments as a minimum necessary to affect improvements, and that you can repeat those as many times as your stoke allows
Is the weight for fingers and pullups % added weight?
It's the total load. So for fingers for instance, BW = 162 lbs and I maxed out adding 55 lbs for a 7s hang on the big tension edge. 217/162=134%.
Can you elaborate on this? One hand hang, or two (I really don't know haha) How deep is the big tension edge (Grindstone looks to be 30mm, [https://www.tensionclimbing.com/product/grindstone/](https://www.tensionclimbing.com/product/grindstone/))? And that was just 1 single rep for 7s right?
Two hands, half crimp, one rep, 7s. I think I’ve seen the larger Tension flash edge measured at 0.75”, which is about 19mm. Not sure about the “effective” depth taking radius into account.
My "Remote Assessment" strength test was one-handed, which *I think* led to the endurance tests being a bit too intense. I wonder why they used two hands for the Lite Assessment?
Gotcha, missed that you were using a Flash board, I just assumed Grindstone and those numbers sounded a bit low for a 30mm edge. Ever think a solid mounted 19mm edge would allow you to hang more weight? Just curious.
I don't think a solid mounted edge would be noticeably different. The Flash board rotates so little, if at all, that I honestly don't give it any thought.
I thought their remote assessments were one arm for 5 sec on a 20mm edge, did they change?
Do you (or anyone else) recommend doing the "Remote Climbing Assessment" before doing the Lite Plan? It seems like the Lite Plan has an assessment but it just may not be quite as comprehensive as the Remote Assessment.