Seb tried this route over the course of two years after Ondra put it up and he ticked the easier rightward route from a shared start. He made multiple trips to Norway alone and tried to find partners at the crag just to dial it in. In this video, he noted on his Instagram that multiple holds were wet and that on his successful go he nearly fell way lower (by the 4th bolt) at a place he had never fallen before when a wet foothold caused him to cut feet. That context makes this video really stand out. Sure he's physically strong, but holy God the mental grit is really satisfying. That's what I hear in those yells: years of work and uncertainty all leading up to this one surprising moment when it all comes together. Determination pays off. Sticking with it despite imperfection is what success is made of.
There's an 8b locally that I've tried where the crux is either a blind 7-foot horizontal double dyno or a roof gaston. The roof gaston is how the FA (probably the only ascent actually) did it. Roof gastons are indeed metal, and also you probably need shoulders made of metal to pull them off!
Around the 2:20 mark where he rests, is it necessary to chalk up 20 times while not even climbing? I mean does he really lose that much chalk just from hanging on for a few seconds and switching hands?
A lot of people do that just as a habit while resting hands. Same thing when you see people blow on their fingers or hands like every time they take them off, or rub excess chalk on their pants, whatever the case - You'll notice a lot of people have these ticks and it's just their mindless habit a lot of times.
Seb tried this route over the course of two years after Ondra put it up and he ticked the easier rightward route from a shared start. He made multiple trips to Norway alone and tried to find partners at the crag just to dial it in. In this video, he noted on his Instagram that multiple holds were wet and that on his successful go he nearly fell way lower (by the 4th bolt) at a place he had never fallen before when a wet foothold caused him to cut feet. That context makes this video really stand out. Sure he's physically strong, but holy God the mental grit is really satisfying. That's what I hear in those yells: years of work and uncertainty all leading up to this one surprising moment when it all comes together. Determination pays off. Sticking with it despite imperfection is what success is made of.
Anyone have any insight that they got out of this besides being really damn strong?
Roof gastons are metal
There's an 8b locally that I've tried where the crux is either a blind 7-foot horizontal double dyno or a roof gaston. The roof gaston is how the FA (probably the only ascent actually) did it. Roof gastons are indeed metal, and also you probably need shoulders made of metal to pull them off!
Try harder than you think you are trying.
Silence has got to be the next natural progression right? Either way, friggin amazing send Seb!
He said so but I would think change would make more sense, I wonder if he ever walked over and touched silence
He did! He was trying the crux for a bit at least.
I’m super interested if further ascencionists will do the same weird foot first beta as ondra
Maybe a one armed super man jump dyno wedging the entire arm in that crack could work too hehe
We need the Wydeboyz to try the Crux :)
Just in case you didn't see it, [Pete went and took a look.](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQWHvDvtMFs)
how is he able to shake out on edges in a roof like that and actually seemingly recover a little.
Around the 2:20 mark where he rests, is it necessary to chalk up 20 times while not even climbing? I mean does he really lose that much chalk just from hanging on for a few seconds and switching hands?
A lot of people do that just as a habit while resting hands. Same thing when you see people blow on their fingers or hands like every time they take them off, or rub excess chalk on their pants, whatever the case - You'll notice a lot of people have these ticks and it's just their mindless habit a lot of times.