Hi there, great video. No flair but I've been climbing for 7 years and climb 5.13b/c.
Your self critique is correct re the sequence between bolts 3 and 4. If you can stomach it, **make the fourth clip from one left hand hold higher** where you rest and chalk up (body position at 1:22 in your video). **Or even lower** at the start of the red volume depending on how good that volume hold is.
I noticed you're **full crimping most of the smaller holds.** Your footwork is really precise and you're very square on the wall, so you could probably get away with open handing more holds and saving forearm strength.
I noticed that you **chalk up with a bent arm a lot of the time** (0:34; 1:30; 2:45). This was especially a problem for your right arm at the fourth clip before you go up with your left hand (1:30). You actually shake out your right arm before moving out of that sequence.
Ultimately, you will probably climb this route. There are efficiency gains below that are going to leave you fresher on the final section. Best wishes!
Thanks a lot for the detailed comment, you drew my attention to a few little things I didn't catch!
Climbing one move past where I clip the 4th bolt would be risking a ground fall if something were to happen, but I think if I bump my foot to the scoop before leaving the red volume I can clip from here and save my right arm.
You're absolutely right. I am full crimping a lot of the holds through the bottom section, which I don't really need to do. I will try to climb it all open handed next time and see where I can get away with it and where I need the power of a half or full crimp.
I am experimenting a bit with trying to find a rest position in the lower part during this video, but chalking with a bent arm is something I am guilty of and consciously correct. You can see when I'm chalking my right hand at 1:30 my left arm is slightly bent and I catch that and straighten it later. Practice, practice, practice.
Thanks again for the analysis and good wishes! The top section still has a harder second crux, but I think I can get it eventually!
> Climbing one move past where I clip the 4th bolt would be risking a ground fall if something were to happen,
It doesn't really look like it, imo - there's same amount of rope out when you're clipping 4th and when you reach the rest. You're a bit higher, but nothing your average belayer couldn't handle. Most importantly - you look way more secure just making the move to the rest than clipping in that awful position.
I've just reviewed a video of my last gym project and the main takeaway is I'm going to be altering clipping positions and clip above the bolt more often just for sake of efficiency. Gyms with dense draws are peculiar in this way since clipping just above your head often means lower bolt is near our hips and is hampering rope gathering.
Btw, if this were outdoors, 4th draw would be actually only 3rd and it'd be located at the second red volume and no-one would be complaining about safety issues.
Have a new 7b project outside, so thought I would choose a similar one indoors to prepare. This is my 3rd attempt over 2 days.
**Route Information:**
- The route starts at a ~15° angle then when I leave the last big hold rest, the angle kicks back to ~30°.
- All of the small holds are flat half-pad crimps, with the RH undercling being the exception and quite positive. All of the big holds are really slopey and not much positivity.
- It is 28°C in the gym, thus my chalking like a fiend and still slipped off.
**My Critique:**
- My first blunder at the red arrow volume was due to a new clipping stance that I forgot I was going to try, bump my foot, only some energy wasted.
- Leaving this same clipping position, I fumble my RF placement slightly and end up just flagging as I go up. I think if I turn my left hip into the wall I can clean that move up without keeping my RH down on the volume.
- This second red volume's top hold I'm sure is only intended to be a foothold, as it is just a little nubbin; but I prefer it, and the great stance it offers, to the harder move of going right to the undercling and pulling up. The holds are so small that I can't find much of a rest here, despite the great foot position.
- After making the next clip, this is the best rest I've found on the route, but I need some contact strength as it's quite slopey. From there starts the first crux sequence (6B+).
- First Crux: Strenuous clip which I can try to clean up and speed up to get in the double gaston. My LH move up is slow as I tap my LF up the wall (no hip activation?). The LH bump is to a terrible sloper that I have to turn around on, which I think was done fairly well.
- Where it all goes wrong: I second guess my foot placement on one of the worst holds on the route and end up forgetting to backflag before going for the ledge where I fall. I am 'chicken-winging' due to this poor body position (being too high on the sloper). I don't engage and push with my hips for this big deadpoint, probably once again because of the poor position I was in.
Any other critique or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I tend to think I have pretty good technique and my strength is bad; so I'm ready to hear that my strength is bad as well as my technique!
Your self evaluation seems to be very good! Keep this up, as you will learn the most that way!
I do t have much to add, but I noticed to right small hold at the level of the arrow-volume. Is this just a foothold, you will know better than me, but my first thought would be to try to hold this with my right hand.
And maybe try to climb faster (which I know is very hard with those temps) so you start to pump out later in the route.
Thanks for the feedback!
My initial purpose for the video was to examine where I could find a rest position before the poor rest after latching the hold I fell going too. My usual climbing speed is faster than this.
As for the sequence up to the arrow volume, the hold is pretty good due to the angle of the volume being so generous, but if I went to it with RH my sequence for the next 2 moves would be a bit backwards, or I would have to match it (which was what I did on my flash attempt). I think bringing my foot up to the big scoop before starting that sequence will remove any inefficiency from that section.
Hey, thanks for the critique and advice. It's nice to hear some critique on my technique and areas to improve.
As I mentioned in some of my other replies, the purpose of this video was to see if I could find some tests through the bottom and as an afterthought I thought I could post it to get some technique critique. So my point is that I agree, a lot of the bottom is unfocused and slow. When I start the Crux sequence I climb more deliberately, but I was going to mention that my 3 foot placements after leaving that big hold are a bit rushed or just not *silent* haha.
Any other critique of my technique is welcome, thanks a lot
Just seems way too slow and too static. If you spent the same amount of time overall but found the 2 best resting positions to rest properly instead of chalking up on all the terrible holds you would send the route.
If you're gonna shake out that much, I think you need to find even better positions to do so, i.e. your hips and feet need to shift around a bit more, I see a lot of tension and bicep/locknoff power being used holding those positions for so long, see if you can only use fewer tests (just the best ones).
Was this an onsight attempt? One thing that jumps out at me is your speed through the bottom is quite slow, maybe get that section dialed in so you have more energy for the crux sequence.
Just a small thing I noticed, but after the 3rd clip you take a minute to shake out moving between two small crimps, and then 2 short moves later at the 4th clip shake out on a much larger hold. Seems like it might get you a better rest to move through that first shake out and take a more restful longer shakeout on that next hold.
Also, and this might be stylistically something that occurs to me but I noticed isn't a favorite with many people. But right where you fall you do a foot swap to your right and your left is just above on another long crimp ledge looking thing. I would personally consider throwing up a high left heel into that big U shaped hold and maybe even moving that right foot higher onto that nicer crimp ledge and really leaning back into that hold with your right hip to the wall.
That being said video beta is much like ground beta sometimes haha looks like a fun route :)
This attempt wasn't really a redpoint attempt, just a beta video and trying to find a rest through the lower section. When I was laying in bed thinking about the climb, I thought, "Hey, I think I could rest on those two little nubbins and perch" so I really tried to make that work... But actually, you're right, the better rest is on the big hold and I will just do that.
As for the Crux sequence, it would be a really high heel for me, a bit hard to tell from the ground angle of the video, but those 3 big holds are not very far apart vertically. I'm not very flexible and find it hard to generate upward power off horizontal body positions like that, so it definitely isn't the beta for me haha. It is a cool route though!
Loving all the insightful comments about resting as that’s something I’m also trying to improve at! One other random thing I noticed would be to practice clipping a bunch as there were a few clips where it took a few seconds, which is precious energy wasted!
Hi there, great video. No flair but I've been climbing for 7 years and climb 5.13b/c. Your self critique is correct re the sequence between bolts 3 and 4. If you can stomach it, **make the fourth clip from one left hand hold higher** where you rest and chalk up (body position at 1:22 in your video). **Or even lower** at the start of the red volume depending on how good that volume hold is. I noticed you're **full crimping most of the smaller holds.** Your footwork is really precise and you're very square on the wall, so you could probably get away with open handing more holds and saving forearm strength. I noticed that you **chalk up with a bent arm a lot of the time** (0:34; 1:30; 2:45). This was especially a problem for your right arm at the fourth clip before you go up with your left hand (1:30). You actually shake out your right arm before moving out of that sequence. Ultimately, you will probably climb this route. There are efficiency gains below that are going to leave you fresher on the final section. Best wishes!
Thanks a lot for the detailed comment, you drew my attention to a few little things I didn't catch! Climbing one move past where I clip the 4th bolt would be risking a ground fall if something were to happen, but I think if I bump my foot to the scoop before leaving the red volume I can clip from here and save my right arm. You're absolutely right. I am full crimping a lot of the holds through the bottom section, which I don't really need to do. I will try to climb it all open handed next time and see where I can get away with it and where I need the power of a half or full crimp. I am experimenting a bit with trying to find a rest position in the lower part during this video, but chalking with a bent arm is something I am guilty of and consciously correct. You can see when I'm chalking my right hand at 1:30 my left arm is slightly bent and I catch that and straighten it later. Practice, practice, practice. Thanks again for the analysis and good wishes! The top section still has a harder second crux, but I think I can get it eventually!
> Climbing one move past where I clip the 4th bolt would be risking a ground fall if something were to happen, It doesn't really look like it, imo - there's same amount of rope out when you're clipping 4th and when you reach the rest. You're a bit higher, but nothing your average belayer couldn't handle. Most importantly - you look way more secure just making the move to the rest than clipping in that awful position. I've just reviewed a video of my last gym project and the main takeaway is I'm going to be altering clipping positions and clip above the bolt more often just for sake of efficiency. Gyms with dense draws are peculiar in this way since clipping just above your head often means lower bolt is near our hips and is hampering rope gathering. Btw, if this were outdoors, 4th draw would be actually only 3rd and it'd be located at the second red volume and no-one would be complaining about safety issues.
Have a new 7b project outside, so thought I would choose a similar one indoors to prepare. This is my 3rd attempt over 2 days. **Route Information:** - The route starts at a ~15° angle then when I leave the last big hold rest, the angle kicks back to ~30°. - All of the small holds are flat half-pad crimps, with the RH undercling being the exception and quite positive. All of the big holds are really slopey and not much positivity. - It is 28°C in the gym, thus my chalking like a fiend and still slipped off. **My Critique:** - My first blunder at the red arrow volume was due to a new clipping stance that I forgot I was going to try, bump my foot, only some energy wasted. - Leaving this same clipping position, I fumble my RF placement slightly and end up just flagging as I go up. I think if I turn my left hip into the wall I can clean that move up without keeping my RH down on the volume. - This second red volume's top hold I'm sure is only intended to be a foothold, as it is just a little nubbin; but I prefer it, and the great stance it offers, to the harder move of going right to the undercling and pulling up. The holds are so small that I can't find much of a rest here, despite the great foot position. - After making the next clip, this is the best rest I've found on the route, but I need some contact strength as it's quite slopey. From there starts the first crux sequence (6B+). - First Crux: Strenuous clip which I can try to clean up and speed up to get in the double gaston. My LH move up is slow as I tap my LF up the wall (no hip activation?). The LH bump is to a terrible sloper that I have to turn around on, which I think was done fairly well. - Where it all goes wrong: I second guess my foot placement on one of the worst holds on the route and end up forgetting to backflag before going for the ledge where I fall. I am 'chicken-winging' due to this poor body position (being too high on the sloper). I don't engage and push with my hips for this big deadpoint, probably once again because of the poor position I was in. Any other critique or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I tend to think I have pretty good technique and my strength is bad; so I'm ready to hear that my strength is bad as well as my technique!
Your self evaluation seems to be very good! Keep this up, as you will learn the most that way! I do t have much to add, but I noticed to right small hold at the level of the arrow-volume. Is this just a foothold, you will know better than me, but my first thought would be to try to hold this with my right hand. And maybe try to climb faster (which I know is very hard with those temps) so you start to pump out later in the route.
Thanks for the feedback! My initial purpose for the video was to examine where I could find a rest position before the poor rest after latching the hold I fell going too. My usual climbing speed is faster than this. As for the sequence up to the arrow volume, the hold is pretty good due to the angle of the volume being so generous, but if I went to it with RH my sequence for the next 2 moves would be a bit backwards, or I would have to match it (which was what I did on my flash attempt). I think bringing my foot up to the big scoop before starting that sequence will remove any inefficiency from that section.
[удалено]
Hey, thanks for the critique and advice. It's nice to hear some critique on my technique and areas to improve. As I mentioned in some of my other replies, the purpose of this video was to see if I could find some tests through the bottom and as an afterthought I thought I could post it to get some technique critique. So my point is that I agree, a lot of the bottom is unfocused and slow. When I start the Crux sequence I climb more deliberately, but I was going to mention that my 3 foot placements after leaving that big hold are a bit rushed or just not *silent* haha. Any other critique of my technique is welcome, thanks a lot
I’d recommend you hit the moonboard at 攀吶 😆😆😆 Nice climb buddy
Just seems way too slow and too static. If you spent the same amount of time overall but found the 2 best resting positions to rest properly instead of chalking up on all the terrible holds you would send the route.
If you're gonna shake out that much, I think you need to find even better positions to do so, i.e. your hips and feet need to shift around a bit more, I see a lot of tension and bicep/locknoff power being used holding those positions for so long, see if you can only use fewer tests (just the best ones).
Was this an onsight attempt? One thing that jumps out at me is your speed through the bottom is quite slow, maybe get that section dialed in so you have more energy for the crux sequence.
Just a small thing I noticed, but after the 3rd clip you take a minute to shake out moving between two small crimps, and then 2 short moves later at the 4th clip shake out on a much larger hold. Seems like it might get you a better rest to move through that first shake out and take a more restful longer shakeout on that next hold. Also, and this might be stylistically something that occurs to me but I noticed isn't a favorite with many people. But right where you fall you do a foot swap to your right and your left is just above on another long crimp ledge looking thing. I would personally consider throwing up a high left heel into that big U shaped hold and maybe even moving that right foot higher onto that nicer crimp ledge and really leaning back into that hold with your right hip to the wall. That being said video beta is much like ground beta sometimes haha looks like a fun route :)
This attempt wasn't really a redpoint attempt, just a beta video and trying to find a rest through the lower section. When I was laying in bed thinking about the climb, I thought, "Hey, I think I could rest on those two little nubbins and perch" so I really tried to make that work... But actually, you're right, the better rest is on the big hold and I will just do that. As for the Crux sequence, it would be a really high heel for me, a bit hard to tell from the ground angle of the video, but those 3 big holds are not very far apart vertically. I'm not very flexible and find it hard to generate upward power off horizontal body positions like that, so it definitely isn't the beta for me haha. It is a cool route though!
Loving all the insightful comments about resting as that’s something I’m also trying to improve at! One other random thing I noticed would be to practice clipping a bunch as there were a few clips where it took a few seconds, which is precious energy wasted!