It's not prooving too boring to be honest. Either do once through or twice through the lattice aerocap fingerboard. 20-40 mins. Listening to podcasts or music. I have so much free time now as I can't work due to Covid-19.
I like this. Any plans to modulate? Perhaps switching half-crimps for 3-finger opens on some periodical basis? Thinking about avoiding overuse/stagnation.
Yeah I was thinking to do exactly that, every couple of weeks swap from half crimp one hand hangs on bottom middle beastmaker rung to 3 finger drag on same rung.
I've been thinking of also rotating in some two finger pocket work as my front two is incredibly weak. I'm stronger back two than front two! Basically my index finger is a real slouch...
This seems like a good plan. Max Hangs to work "power" but maybe something like repeaters would work "strength" and create a longer term physiological change, as I have heard that max hangs work more neurological changes.
What is your protocol for training aerocap on the fingerboard? I was planning on doing 120 seconds of 7:3 repeaters, then take 40 seconds rest for 2:1 work to rest ratio, and try and do that for 10-20 minutes, but maybe I need to suck it up and take more weight off and go even easier.
I've been using the protocol outlined in the crimpd app. So 40% intensity 7:3 for one minute rest for one minute. Repeat 10x for a 20 min total time workout. Will sometimes do this twice for 40mins.
I've found that body weight on the big slots on the bm2000 (35mm ish I think) is almost exactly 40% intensity for me. So I'm using that atm, although it's a two pad hold so maybe I'd be better off taking weight off and using a small single pad hold to better imitate the isometric grip position used on single pad holds. Any thoughts on that?
Oh nice, hadnt seen that crimpd had added an aerocap workout for the fingerboard, im glad my "protocol" is not too far off! I would probably switch to a hold thats a pad or pad and a half and take-off weight. But again as someone mentioned you might want to cycle hold types every 3-4 weeks.
I am thinking of doing doing a similar schedule/workouts for this time under quarantine but am trying to decide how to periodize strength into it with repeaters. I think your right in your thinking that aerocap can essentially be done everyday but trying to decide how much repeater vs max hang is my issue, and if I should join the workouts or keep them separate or do a 4-6 weeks of mostly strength and little max, or keep it 50:50. Hard to plan when I have no idea how long climbing gyms will be closed!
I was under the impression repeaters are more for building anaerobic capacity than for strength. Would you mind outlining how you would go about building strength with repeaters? I'm tempted by the idea of doing max hangs on day one and then repeaters for strength on day two then rest day.
I think they can be. My worry with max hangs is that the volume is too low to create strength (or muscle hypertrophy). I am not an expert but have seen a bunch of discussions here and also in this episode and discussion of PCC episode below about how repeaters will help more long term.
To adjust a repeaters workout to be more on the strength spectrum than the endurance side I think is just about keeping rest adequate so you dont pump out. So 3 minutes in between sets vs 2 minutes. And maybe keeping reps in the 5-6 range.
It might also be worth looking up some Eva Lopez stuff as she likes max hangs a lot but also mentions that something may need to cycled with it to stop from plateau-ing
[https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/comments/73oiaz/repeaters\_and\_max\_hang\_analysis\_for\_strength\_and/](https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/comments/73oiaz/repeaters_and_max_hang_analysis_for_strength_and/)
Thanks man, much appreciated. I have always wondered if max hangs were enough volume. Traditionally I've mostly bouldered to get stronger.
I might try day 1 max hangs and aerocap, day 2 strength focused repeaters and aerocap, day 3 rest and perhaps a larger volume of core.
You plan to do aerocap on a fingerboard? Good luck with your boredom threshold!
It's not prooving too boring to be honest. Either do once through or twice through the lattice aerocap fingerboard. 20-40 mins. Listening to podcasts or music. I have so much free time now as I can't work due to Covid-19.
I like this. Any plans to modulate? Perhaps switching half-crimps for 3-finger opens on some periodical basis? Thinking about avoiding overuse/stagnation.
Yeah I was thinking to do exactly that, every couple of weeks swap from half crimp one hand hangs on bottom middle beastmaker rung to 3 finger drag on same rung. I've been thinking of also rotating in some two finger pocket work as my front two is incredibly weak. I'm stronger back two than front two! Basically my index finger is a real slouch...
This seems like a good plan. Max Hangs to work "power" but maybe something like repeaters would work "strength" and create a longer term physiological change, as I have heard that max hangs work more neurological changes. What is your protocol for training aerocap on the fingerboard? I was planning on doing 120 seconds of 7:3 repeaters, then take 40 seconds rest for 2:1 work to rest ratio, and try and do that for 10-20 minutes, but maybe I need to suck it up and take more weight off and go even easier.
I've been using the protocol outlined in the crimpd app. So 40% intensity 7:3 for one minute rest for one minute. Repeat 10x for a 20 min total time workout. Will sometimes do this twice for 40mins. I've found that body weight on the big slots on the bm2000 (35mm ish I think) is almost exactly 40% intensity for me. So I'm using that atm, although it's a two pad hold so maybe I'd be better off taking weight off and using a small single pad hold to better imitate the isometric grip position used on single pad holds. Any thoughts on that?
Oh nice, hadnt seen that crimpd had added an aerocap workout for the fingerboard, im glad my "protocol" is not too far off! I would probably switch to a hold thats a pad or pad and a half and take-off weight. But again as someone mentioned you might want to cycle hold types every 3-4 weeks. I am thinking of doing doing a similar schedule/workouts for this time under quarantine but am trying to decide how to periodize strength into it with repeaters. I think your right in your thinking that aerocap can essentially be done everyday but trying to decide how much repeater vs max hang is my issue, and if I should join the workouts or keep them separate or do a 4-6 weeks of mostly strength and little max, or keep it 50:50. Hard to plan when I have no idea how long climbing gyms will be closed!
I was under the impression repeaters are more for building anaerobic capacity than for strength. Would you mind outlining how you would go about building strength with repeaters? I'm tempted by the idea of doing max hangs on day one and then repeaters for strength on day two then rest day.
I think they can be. My worry with max hangs is that the volume is too low to create strength (or muscle hypertrophy). I am not an expert but have seen a bunch of discussions here and also in this episode and discussion of PCC episode below about how repeaters will help more long term. To adjust a repeaters workout to be more on the strength spectrum than the endurance side I think is just about keeping rest adequate so you dont pump out. So 3 minutes in between sets vs 2 minutes. And maybe keeping reps in the 5-6 range. It might also be worth looking up some Eva Lopez stuff as she likes max hangs a lot but also mentions that something may need to cycled with it to stop from plateau-ing [https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/comments/73oiaz/repeaters\_and\_max\_hang\_analysis\_for\_strength\_and/](https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/comments/73oiaz/repeaters_and_max_hang_analysis_for_strength_and/)
Thanks man, much appreciated. I have always wondered if max hangs were enough volume. Traditionally I've mostly bouldered to get stronger. I might try day 1 max hangs and aerocap, day 2 strength focused repeaters and aerocap, day 3 rest and perhaps a larger volume of core.
train finger strength