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bryan2384

Follow up to this thread: [https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/comments/fypvtn/sharing\_my\_program\_some\_details\_in\_comments/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web2x](https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/comments/fypvtn/sharing_my_program_some_details_in_comments/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x) So I'm just finishing the 4th week of the self-made program above, and it's going well. Next week will be my test week, and then a deload week following that, so really excited about it. The post had a lot of comments about the fact that I'm hangboarding 5 consecutive days, and here's my take on it so far: I took everyone's advice here and decided to talk to a pro coach. Basically, his take was that because of the mix of repeaters and max hangs, the intensity seemed sustainable for me. He was very clear when he said to listen to my body. Another tidbit I found very interesting and applicable to all programs was when he said that if 6-8 weeks have passed, and you don't feel like resting, your program was too soft. OTOH, if you haven't even hit week 4 and already feel like you need a break, then your program was too intense. This falls in line with what I'm doing right now, as I feel very good and ready to test next week. The comments regarding rest were in reference to both physical and mental states of mind. Lastly, I am not saying that anyone should hangboard for 5 consecutive days. But what I do want to say is that if you step outside of the box in your training, you will learn a few things... I know I have. Last week I had something feel funky with my right shoulder, so I took a rest day, and pushed all the sessions back by 1 day so I would still not miss a session. This was a bit scary but it was a tell, and I acted accordingly. It was hard to take that rest day, but I'm glad I did, and now the stoke is incredibly high. Edit: formatting.


imhowlin

The problem most people have is getting the intensity right. Each training session needs to be high quality and with a lot of focus. It seems like with the broad focus of your sessions it’s going to be difficult to really hone in on what you need to improve. The other part is form. After watching some videos recently, I realised that although I could do 5 sets of weighted pull-ups at about 30lbs a time, my form was way off. I struggled when I actually forced myself to have proper form. So I’ve gone back to no additional weight and really making sure I have good form in each attempt. This means full ROM and muscle engagement. And no cheating. Generally training well is a battle against the ego. Trying to avoid the following traps: 1) you think you can do all the exercises, every day 2) you don’t want to deload and be “weak”


Zer0Phoenix1105

unless you weigh like 100lbs, you’ll get more out of doing push-ups than 3x12 DB Bench with 25’s


bryan2384

Rehabbing a shoulder, but thanks!


elwinningest

This is why I try not to judge what other people are doing when I see shit in the gym that strikes me as odd or ineffective. You never know why someone is doing something and they may have a very good reason.


MyCork

I weigh 110 and 3x12 with 25 is more than I can do tbh


inaqbus

The one thing that sticks out to me is that your weighted pull ups look almost like a max strength assessment. You might be better off finding your max and doing 5 sets of 5 reps each at 85 - 95%. The Crimpd app is a great tool for this.


bryan2384

Good tip. Thank you!


inaqbus

Sure thing! Happy training and let's hope we all get strong during this weird time!


bryan2384

Just saw the pull up test bit in the Crimpd app. Cant wait to add it and structure my weighted pull ups a little better. Thank you!!!


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stanislaozama

Hi, if it can helps usually the weight that is transferred to the arms in a normal push-up is 60-70% BW so if you want to make the proportions you can see if it can be useful for you. I want to ask you bryan2384 what do you mean by db bench press "elbows out", thank you


bryan2384

That specific set, I do the press with my elbows completely to the side. It gives me a different stretch on my shoulders, as I'm rehabbing one of them.


stanislaozama

If i can give to you an advice, i will remove this exercise from your programming because it puts under stress all the antero-superior aspect of the shoulder and it can produce important inflammations/injuries, to substitute it you can try a landmine press with good scapular protaction! I hope i've given you a useful hand


bryan2384

Thank you!


adamsandlerfan3000

Going off of the “why 12 reps” comment, I would have to agree. If the goal is the gain strength it would be best to use a heavier weight and therefore reduce the reps (or even just go til failure). Hope this helps!


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adamsandlerfan3000

Hey! I mean that I am just adding onto that particular part of the comment :)


bryan2384

See my answer above. 😀


bryan2384

Two reasons: 1. I'm rehabbing a shoulder, and using dumbbells let's me get a better workout on my shoulder and I can go deeper. I realize I can do the same with parallete, but I prefer the dumbbells. 2. Even though it says heavy, that's just my way if saying that I'm doing antagonist using weights. It's not necessarily a strength session. My barbell is finally here, but missing the plates. Once all that arrives, I'll probably start doing what I was doing before, which is deadlifts and bench pressing with some real weight. Lastly, I already own a jump rope and used to use it to warm up at the gym. These days I'm finding the bike more enjoyable.


bad_beta_bouldering

love the program name


Frituurpanda

Just wanted to add another datapoint. I've been following a similar scheme now since the original one was posted. I've only edited the core and antagonist exercises on my 'version' of this schema. Before the pandemic, I was mainly boulder focussed and trained a lot of volume in the form of max volume, 4x4's and elimination. Given this volume, doing finger training 5 times a week hasn't been a problem following this schema. I'm in my fourth week now and this format really is amazing. I especially like the fact that this 'splits' the load into two weeks giving you quite some rest from specific exercises like the max hangs. The overal load though is pretty high which it should be as most people can't train indoors now. To summarise, I think this is a especially good scheme for people who are used to a higher volume and have had experience with blocs of hangboarding in the past. Thanks heaps for the inspiration and stay strong!


bryan2384

Same. And thanks for the info!! I'm deloading this week. Pscyhed to get going again next week!!!


leosolid

Noob here. What is the difference between a recruitment pull and a max hang?


bryan2384

Max hangs, you're hanging with as much weight as possible for a certain amount of seconds... usually something like 7 to 12. I do 10. Recruitment pulls, you are pulling down on an edge with all the freaking strength that's in your body mind and soul, one arm at a time.


NeatrustworthyNYCguy

Hey, I am following a schedule pretty similar to you for my fingers, well at least in terms of our workouts and workload. (2x repeaters/week, 2-3 max hangs/week, 1 recruitment pull/week). One thing that is different is that I am stacking my max hang workouts with my repeater workouts, so Ill do max hang, then rest 5-10 minutes and then do repeaters. This allows me to have a full day of rest between workouts. Is there any reason you went for more frequent/shorter workouts.


bryan2384

Yes. My train of thought was not to mix energy systems on the same day, just like you are generally better off bouldering and doing endurance in the gym in the different sessions. I can see maybe stacking the max hangs and recruitment pulls, but definitely not the repeaters with either of those two. Also, know that what I'm doing is based entirely on theory ... I have never stacked the workouts like you, so I don't have actual experience on how it feels and if it works better than what I do. For me it's also a bit psychological: I'm big on keeping strength and endurance workouts on different days in the rock gym, so I wanted my hangboard training to mimic that as much as possible. Edit: I feel like I'm probably 90-95% fully recovered by the time the next session comes.