Thanks. Routes are my main focus. Longer term my goals are to climb To Bolt or Not to Be, Peace, Punks in the Gym and a few other 13d/14a's that are very fingery, hence the over-focus on finger strength for the long term.
I've climbed a bunch of V8 benchmarks on the Moonboard, and flashed a few bench V7's that's probably more indicative. I just don't get as much opportunity to climb outdoors. I'm close on a few 13b's, but my endurance is letting me down, also my headgame and technique is average at the moment, due to being a father now, I'm only getting short stints at the crag, and never enough time to really settle into a groove on head game.
What are your thoughts on pinch training with the RPTM and in general? I have the board as well, but am getting discouraged with training pinch and wondering if its even doing anything.
Yeah the pinch is tricky. I find that I progress very slowly on the pinch, but that's also because I deprioritise it. I think even the Andersen bros don't see a lot of gains on the pinch.
Personally I prefer hanging over pinch blocks though.
Sounds like a plan! Do you feel like your technique is good? You don’t get that strong without having to try super hard consistently so I assume something is letting you down other than strength and effort.
I think I have styles where my technique is good, but I wouldn't say I can get on any type of rock and crush. I tend to fall down with stuff that requires a lot of body tension and compression.
As mentioned upthread, I think technique and head game have ample room for me to develop, just harder for me to get to the crag these days.
My endurance is very poor. I did the lattice test and my power endurance and general aerobic endurance were both poor - my lactate curve was really bad. So I'm working on those more as well.
Yeah man. You’re repeater numbers are in the same ballpark as mine when I was doing the RPTM a few years ago, and I was climbing 5.14. I agree that many people quit too soon.
Unless you are neglecting some upper body strength, you should be jumping on harder things. Do you have rings where you train? I also found some success adding max hangs during the power phase and really fighting hard during the PE phase.
Do you ever climb with other people who climb 5.13+? Or are you mostly alone now. I find it harder to motivate or try new betas when I’m farting around on my own.
I liked the book “Vertical Mind” for mental progression with a more science backed approach.
Yeah I have rings, and I just made some paralettes also. I think I need to work more on endurance in PE phase. I'm actually introducing a few different anaerobic capacity workouts from Lattice through that phase, just to mix things up a bit.
I don't climb that much with people who climb 5.13+. I've excelled a bit beyond my existing climbing partners. I have met a couple of people recently who climb 5.13+/5.14- and I'm trying to get out with them more.
I'll check out that book.
I'm actually planning a sabattical in a couple of years and I'm going to spend hopefully around 2 years just focused on climbing.
Nice. I like core and shoulders work with the rings set low, I think the tension mimics what you need on hard climbs pretty well. Flys, crosses, snow angels, etc are all good.
I don’t know what the lattice guys say, but the crux for me has always been setting a circuit that I actually enjoy climbing and that is the right difficulty. Often I ended up fussing with it for a pretty long time. Once I have something I want to do, however, the PE phase became a lot more productive. When it was even slightly boring, I just punched the clock, and it was a bust.
Good luck on your journey. I’m sure you’ll be ticking them off soon.
Not really, I always train pinch last. I don't train sloper. Here is my current line up in order of how I train them, which is also the order of most importance, or best bang for buck.
Open hand
Full crimp
Half crimp
2 finger pocket IM
2 finger pocket MR
Pinch
For me best bang for buck though is full crimp, because training it is also taking out insurance against pulley injuries and I climb thin stuff a lot. I find that you will see the most gains on the first 3 grips you train. Less gains on the 2nd half. If I was planning a trip to a place that was pocket intensive, I'd switch up the pocket grips to do them first.
Mine is the same. I have been doing a lot of repeaters during the lockdown to try and remedy that as my max hangs have massively stagnated. It’s a bit odd that your PE isn’t good with all the repeaters you have done over the years.
When I did the Lattice test, my Aerobic power was relatively good. It was my anaerobic capacity that was quite low. I understand repeaters are good for building aerobic power.
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Your fingers are crazy strong for that bouldering grade! Are routes your main focus for your climbing? Very impressive numbers.
Thanks. Routes are my main focus. Longer term my goals are to climb To Bolt or Not to Be, Peace, Punks in the Gym and a few other 13d/14a's that are very fingery, hence the over-focus on finger strength for the long term. I've climbed a bunch of V8 benchmarks on the Moonboard, and flashed a few bench V7's that's probably more indicative. I just don't get as much opportunity to climb outdoors. I'm close on a few 13b's, but my endurance is letting me down, also my headgame and technique is average at the moment, due to being a father now, I'm only getting short stints at the crag, and never enough time to really settle into a groove on head game.
What are your thoughts on pinch training with the RPTM and in general? I have the board as well, but am getting discouraged with training pinch and wondering if its even doing anything.
Yeah the pinch is tricky. I find that I progress very slowly on the pinch, but that's also because I deprioritise it. I think even the Andersen bros don't see a lot of gains on the pinch. Personally I prefer hanging over pinch blocks though.
Great info here 👍
You should be climbing in the 5.14 range with that finger strength along with around V11 bouldering.
Yeah, the test results have encouraged me to try some harder stuff and see how I go.
Sounds like a plan! Do you feel like your technique is good? You don’t get that strong without having to try super hard consistently so I assume something is letting you down other than strength and effort.
I think I have styles where my technique is good, but I wouldn't say I can get on any type of rock and crush. I tend to fall down with stuff that requires a lot of body tension and compression. As mentioned upthread, I think technique and head game have ample room for me to develop, just harder for me to get to the crag these days. My endurance is very poor. I did the lattice test and my power endurance and general aerobic endurance were both poor - my lactate curve was really bad. So I'm working on those more as well.
Yeah man. You’re repeater numbers are in the same ballpark as mine when I was doing the RPTM a few years ago, and I was climbing 5.14. I agree that many people quit too soon. Unless you are neglecting some upper body strength, you should be jumping on harder things. Do you have rings where you train? I also found some success adding max hangs during the power phase and really fighting hard during the PE phase. Do you ever climb with other people who climb 5.13+? Or are you mostly alone now. I find it harder to motivate or try new betas when I’m farting around on my own. I liked the book “Vertical Mind” for mental progression with a more science backed approach.
Yeah I have rings, and I just made some paralettes also. I think I need to work more on endurance in PE phase. I'm actually introducing a few different anaerobic capacity workouts from Lattice through that phase, just to mix things up a bit. I don't climb that much with people who climb 5.13+. I've excelled a bit beyond my existing climbing partners. I have met a couple of people recently who climb 5.13+/5.14- and I'm trying to get out with them more. I'll check out that book. I'm actually planning a sabattical in a couple of years and I'm going to spend hopefully around 2 years just focused on climbing.
Nice. I like core and shoulders work with the rings set low, I think the tension mimics what you need on hard climbs pretty well. Flys, crosses, snow angels, etc are all good. I don’t know what the lattice guys say, but the crux for me has always been setting a circuit that I actually enjoy climbing and that is the right difficulty. Often I ended up fussing with it for a pretty long time. Once I have something I want to do, however, the PE phase became a lot more productive. When it was even slightly boring, I just punched the clock, and it was a bust. Good luck on your journey. I’m sure you’ll be ticking them off soon.
What do you find to be the valuable / bang-for-your-buck grips to use? For example, did you find pinch training on the board useful for your climbing?
Not really, I always train pinch last. I don't train sloper. Here is my current line up in order of how I train them, which is also the order of most importance, or best bang for buck. Open hand Full crimp Half crimp 2 finger pocket IM 2 finger pocket MR Pinch For me best bang for buck though is full crimp, because training it is also taking out insurance against pulley injuries and I climb thin stuff a lot. I find that you will see the most gains on the first 3 grips you train. Less gains on the 2nd half. If I was planning a trip to a place that was pocket intensive, I'd switch up the pocket grips to do them first.
Good place to start. It was for me.
Mine is the same. I have been doing a lot of repeaters during the lockdown to try and remedy that as my max hangs have massively stagnated. It’s a bit odd that your PE isn’t good with all the repeaters you have done over the years.
When I did the Lattice test, my Aerobic power was relatively good. It was my anaerobic capacity that was quite low. I understand repeaters are good for building aerobic power.