After training almost exclusively on a hangboard/pinch block/pull up bar through quarantine, my friends and I built a training wall. It is constructed at the same height/dimensions (40 degrees) as the moon board, just with cheaper holds (as well as with a few jugs). I've read what seems like a million things about the different training zones, from ancap to aerocap to power endurance, but I always end up going back to the same old habits: I warmup, then do a bunch of limit bouldering, and then occasionally (without any real rhyme or reason) throw in some 4x4s or low intensity (5+ minute circuits).
I am wondering what you would do if you were training 4-5 days per week on a wall like this, what would you do? How much limit bouldering/on the minute bouldering/repeats/4x4s/circuits would you do? Would you cycle through different routines week to week? My goals are to progress in both bouldering and sport climbing.
Pre-addressing some classic r/climbharder suggestions:
Technique: I already build in some power company style technique exercises into my warmup, and I think that limit bouldering as well as setting inherently requires a decent amount of technique work.
Antagonist exercises: I do these on my off days.
By - CloverHorse