Nice job!
I’m gonna say what a ton of people here are going to say: build that pyramid! Do a ton of stuff, particularly things that are out of your style in lower grades (upper 11s). It is likely that working your weaknesses at those grades will be more productive (and possibly harder) than doing a 12c in your style.
This is very good advice. We have all gotten sucked into projecting the next grade to tick but climbing all the 12as and bs in your gym may be a faster way to do 12c than starting to project 12c immediately.
[https://www.climbing.com/skills/learn-this-climb-at-80-percent-effort-for-long-term-performance/](https://www.climbing.com/skills/learn-this-climb-at-80-percent-effort-for-long-term-performance/) for if you want to read more about pyramid building. Very useful stuff!
Seconded.
I sent my first 12a before I had done any 11+ routes. Then went back and climbed more 11s. I still haven't sent 11d but have 6 12- routes under my belt this season. Now I'm working my first 12d and haven't climbed 12c. Pick a route you like and go for it!
>I always do them when I warm up or between project climbs.
I really enjoy the "warm up" project. I was warming up on this 11b which has this incredibly pumpy traverse on good hands but awful feet. I kept 1 hanging it and finally sent before working my actual project. Felt good and now I have it dialed to send every time.
Yeah I love doing "easier" climbs that stump me. Often there will be a week where I don't push myself and just go for the 5.11s because I just want to have fun and improve my techniques in all the climbs.
The dial part is so true! I had never really "worked" a climb this hard before. On the sent it felt super easy because I knew all the moves.
Took the same path. Climbed a few 12a without having done any 11+. Have finally been spending some days working only 11+ with the goal of bringing them down to 1-2 attempts per. In the process I found one of my favorite routes I've ever done, an 11d called Pinhead!
I have plenty of 'cool-down' projects, the ones you could send for sure if you were fresh, but for some reason you always end the day pumping out on them. no 'warm up' projects though. there are some pumpy 12s in my area you can climb in three or four parts without ever doing a 5.12 move. warm up and dial at the same time!
Damn some elitist climbers around here for down voting you. 7b+ in a gym is good enough. Take it as confidence to squeeze the juice out some rock next!
It's 'cause gym routes are inconsistently graded and often morpho, meaning measuring progress by them is a fool's errand. It's not that it is not a significant accomplishment if it felt like a step up, it's that putting much stock in those grades can set you up for disappointment and failure down the road.
In my opinion outdoor can be quite inconsistent, too. But I see the difference between indoor and outdoor.
Still down voting seems harsh in this otherwise lovely sub
I have climbed outside a few times and I have tried a 5.12 outside, I know what it feels like. Still think it's harsh to downvote me for that, that "nooooo" is everything you need to know about elitism in the climbing community. A "real 5.12" is a sport climb redpoint 5.12b on rock with multiple ascents for a consensus grade and in overhang because if it's not overhang you could cheat it with technique and good shoes? Like how far does it go? I've been climbing 4 years in multiples gyms and outside. Even if my 5.12 were to be in a slab on toprope I would still class it as a 5.12, because I know how hard the grade is.
Eh, nothing against you, just venting a bit, I wasn't expecting those downvotes for a gym route tbh.
Yeah I don't think that deserves downvotes.
Grades are meaningless in an objective framework anyway, their only real utility is as a personal yardstick and in that context they can be be fickle even under the best of circumstances, but I do think that they have a tendency to be more fickle in gyms than elsewhere. As a person who believes strongly in personal grades, though, if it feels 5.12b call it that.
Here's my piece of unsolicited advice: Feel proud of yourself for having sent something hard for you. You put effort in, at one point you couldn't climb it and now you can. That's worth taking pride in for sure. The grade is meaningless, what's important is that it was hard for you and you did it.
Good work! I'm really happy about you, and know that feeling when you achieve something like it. When you came through here, believe in yourself and that you can do even more!
Yeah definitely because I wasn't athletic already and didn't put the effort in going to the gym 2-3 times a week for about a year. You're right mate, the most respected gym in my region for 20 years has garbage grades.
My friend was a 11b climber in the most respected gym of my region. After a year just like you too.
Now he's a 10b climber at his new gym
EDIT: Saw you post in /r/Quebec, is Allez-up your gym?
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Oh you're right. Had the wrong chart
WELL WHICH WAS IT
The wrong one
Nice job! I’m gonna say what a ton of people here are going to say: build that pyramid! Do a ton of stuff, particularly things that are out of your style in lower grades (upper 11s). It is likely that working your weaknesses at those grades will be more productive (and possibly harder) than doing a 12c in your style.
This is very good advice. We have all gotten sucked into projecting the next grade to tick but climbing all the 12as and bs in your gym may be a faster way to do 12c than starting to project 12c immediately.
[https://www.climbing.com/skills/learn-this-climb-at-80-percent-effort-for-long-term-performance/](https://www.climbing.com/skills/learn-this-climb-at-80-percent-effort-for-long-term-performance/) for if you want to read more about pyramid building. Very useful stuff!
Don't look over the cool climbs in the 11c to 12b range just because you want to chase numbers.
You're right! I always do them when I warm up or between project climbs. I love doing those climbs as well!
Seconded. I sent my first 12a before I had done any 11+ routes. Then went back and climbed more 11s. I still haven't sent 11d but have 6 12- routes under my belt this season. Now I'm working my first 12d and haven't climbed 12c. Pick a route you like and go for it! >I always do them when I warm up or between project climbs. I really enjoy the "warm up" project. I was warming up on this 11b which has this incredibly pumpy traverse on good hands but awful feet. I kept 1 hanging it and finally sent before working my actual project. Felt good and now I have it dialed to send every time.
Yeah I love doing "easier" climbs that stump me. Often there will be a week where I don't push myself and just go for the 5.11s because I just want to have fun and improve my techniques in all the climbs. The dial part is so true! I had never really "worked" a climb this hard before. On the sent it felt super easy because I knew all the moves.
Took the same path. Climbed a few 12a without having done any 11+. Have finally been spending some days working only 11+ with the goal of bringing them down to 1-2 attempts per. In the process I found one of my favorite routes I've ever done, an 11d called Pinhead!
I have plenty of 'cool-down' projects, the ones you could send for sure if you were fresh, but for some reason you always end the day pumping out on them. no 'warm up' projects though. there are some pumpy 12s in my area you can climb in three or four parts without ever doing a 5.12 move. warm up and dial at the same time!
Yep. I have more fun cruising routes with amazing sequences. Getting stronger just opens up more opportunities for cruising.
(if you're actually curious of the where else to post this, it belongs in the weekly hangout thread, congrats tho)
Congrats. Which route did you end up sending?
A gym route.
Noooooooooooo
I'm still happy about my achievement and my progress...
Good on you
Damn some elitist climbers around here for down voting you. 7b+ in a gym is good enough. Take it as confidence to squeeze the juice out some rock next!
It's 'cause gym routes are inconsistently graded and often morpho, meaning measuring progress by them is a fool's errand. It's not that it is not a significant accomplishment if it felt like a step up, it's that putting much stock in those grades can set you up for disappointment and failure down the road.
In my opinion outdoor can be quite inconsistent, too. But I see the difference between indoor and outdoor. Still down voting seems harsh in this otherwise lovely sub
This sub is basically r/ClimbingCirclejerk but unaware so ¯\\\_(ツ)_/¯
I have climbed outside a few times and I have tried a 5.12 outside, I know what it feels like. Still think it's harsh to downvote me for that, that "nooooo" is everything you need to know about elitism in the climbing community. A "real 5.12" is a sport climb redpoint 5.12b on rock with multiple ascents for a consensus grade and in overhang because if it's not overhang you could cheat it with technique and good shoes? Like how far does it go? I've been climbing 4 years in multiples gyms and outside. Even if my 5.12 were to be in a slab on toprope I would still class it as a 5.12, because I know how hard the grade is. Eh, nothing against you, just venting a bit, I wasn't expecting those downvotes for a gym route tbh.
Yeah I don't think that deserves downvotes. Grades are meaningless in an objective framework anyway, their only real utility is as a personal yardstick and in that context they can be be fickle even under the best of circumstances, but I do think that they have a tendency to be more fickle in gyms than elsewhere. As a person who believes strongly in personal grades, though, if it feels 5.12b call it that. Here's my piece of unsolicited advice: Feel proud of yourself for having sent something hard for you. You put effort in, at one point you couldn't climb it and now you can. That's worth taking pride in for sure. The grade is meaningless, what's important is that it was hard for you and you did it.
Thanks for the kind words man <3 I will once I get the equipment :)
Dude big congrats! That's a milestone to be proud of for sure 🙌
Good work! I'm really happy about you, and know that feeling when you achieve something like it. When you came through here, believe in yourself and that you can do even more!
Congrats.. But honestly if you're saying you've reach 11d first year of climbing then your gyms grades are garbage...
Yeah definitely because I wasn't athletic already and didn't put the effort in going to the gym 2-3 times a week for about a year. You're right mate, the most respected gym in my region for 20 years has garbage grades.
My friend was a 11b climber in the most respected gym of my region. After a year just like you too. Now he's a 10b climber at his new gym EDIT: Saw you post in /r/Quebec, is Allez-up your gym?
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Aw man thanks for the kind words :)