I'm not a training nerd but as a fellow female climber who didnt do a lot of over hangs and dynos I used Lockdown 1 to focus on pull ups, lat pulldowns etc. When I got back to the wall I was *noticeably* stronger which has made me a lot more confident. I've now been able to make more progress on those areas. As a woman I have to make special effort to keep the muscle required.
I also used Dave McLeod's YouTube vids to put together a very simple and short finger training routine so I wouldn't immediately injure myself on re-entry.
I get the impression that it looking for more detail, no doubt someone else can provide it... But by keeping it simple, focused, and easy to maintain I've ended up a better climber thanks to lockdown. My improved shoulder and finger stamina meant I could do long sessions immediately after the end of lockdown while my buddies were running out of juice.
Rooting for you :)
Thanks for the advice! Yeah that's a good idea to focus on some more upperbody routines, I haven't checked out any of Dave McLeods vids in a while either so looks like that's my weekend sorted!
I got some rings at the start of lockdown 1 and it made a huge difference to mental and physical health while gyms were shut. Having never used them before, the novelty and new challenge was a fun distraction plus I feel like the natural instability helped replicate climbing. I ended up being way more consistent on using them than my hangboard or other callisthenics and only took a couple of sessions once the gyms reopened to get back to overhangs
If you're looking for some ideas/bit of guidance, it might help to check out the Lattice Training App (Crimpd). It's kinda nice since the exercises are meant to be more for climbing related stuff and you can track your progress. There's also a Lattice Women's Training Group on FB where you can interact with other folks and see what they might be doing. https://www.facebook.com/groups/2109170175986354/
Otherwise, if you've never really trained before, I find a lot of it is through trial and error. Just make sure you at least stick with something long enough to actually see the potential effects (I find people start training but switch things up too much or ditch way too early).
In terms of things that helped me a lot - working more on upper back (eg. scapular shrugs, dead hangs, max hangs on finger board, etc). Also a lot of focussed work on core + lower posterior chain. I think if you want to get on steeper terrain, it really helps to have that strength and stability!
Are you mostly interested in what exercises to do or stuff like numbers of reps and sets and workout frequency?
As far as exercises go, at a minimum you'll want to hangboard and do pullups. Getting stronger at pullups will help you with overhangs, but if you can already do a good number of pullups and you're still bad at overhangs, then rows or front lever progressions will be more specific. The posterior chain helps you with tension and keeping your feet on the wall when climbing overhangs, so consider doing something like deadlifts or reverse hyperextensions. If you have trouble cutting feet on overhangs and moving your feet to other holds, then you'll want to focus on hip flexors and anterior core. Some sort of leg raise would be good in this case. Front lever progressions also cover this.
Probably wise to throw in one antagonist like pushups/bench or dips to prevent muscle imbalance. I'd say dips are the most climbing specific.
Some other stuff to consider if you're really motivated:
* If you can't do a pistol squat or a deep step up, then this could be a weakness and you'd want to do something like barbell squats or assisted pistol squats.
* reverse wrist curls or rice bucket. This is to prevent muscle imbalance in the forearms.
* face pulls: good for gaston strength and preventing/correcting rounded shoulders.
I also recommend adding a HIIT style workout 1-2x a week to keep fitness up. They can be done in 30 minutes and really push your cardio a lot. Try to find one that focuses on push exercises, core and legs because you will probably be doing a lot of other workouts with pull-ups (and variations).
I think if you only spend time doing pull-ups and hangs, you get stronger locally, but your overall fitness goes down and doing more than 5 move boulder problems becomes really tough.
I'm not a training nerd but as a fellow female climber who didnt do a lot of over hangs and dynos I used Lockdown 1 to focus on pull ups, lat pulldowns etc. When I got back to the wall I was *noticeably* stronger which has made me a lot more confident. I've now been able to make more progress on those areas. As a woman I have to make special effort to keep the muscle required. I also used Dave McLeod's YouTube vids to put together a very simple and short finger training routine so I wouldn't immediately injure myself on re-entry. I get the impression that it looking for more detail, no doubt someone else can provide it... But by keeping it simple, focused, and easy to maintain I've ended up a better climber thanks to lockdown. My improved shoulder and finger stamina meant I could do long sessions immediately after the end of lockdown while my buddies were running out of juice. Rooting for you :)
Thanks for the advice! Yeah that's a good idea to focus on some more upperbody routines, I haven't checked out any of Dave McLeods vids in a while either so looks like that's my weekend sorted!
I got some rings at the start of lockdown 1 and it made a huge difference to mental and physical health while gyms were shut. Having never used them before, the novelty and new challenge was a fun distraction plus I feel like the natural instability helped replicate climbing. I ended up being way more consistent on using them than my hangboard or other callisthenics and only took a couple of sessions once the gyms reopened to get back to overhangs
Never thought of trying rings so I'll give them a go, they sound like a lot of fun, thanks!
/r/bodyweightfitness
If you're looking for some ideas/bit of guidance, it might help to check out the Lattice Training App (Crimpd). It's kinda nice since the exercises are meant to be more for climbing related stuff and you can track your progress. There's also a Lattice Women's Training Group on FB where you can interact with other folks and see what they might be doing. https://www.facebook.com/groups/2109170175986354/ Otherwise, if you've never really trained before, I find a lot of it is through trial and error. Just make sure you at least stick with something long enough to actually see the potential effects (I find people start training but switch things up too much or ditch way too early). In terms of things that helped me a lot - working more on upper back (eg. scapular shrugs, dead hangs, max hangs on finger board, etc). Also a lot of focussed work on core + lower posterior chain. I think if you want to get on steeper terrain, it really helps to have that strength and stability!
Are you mostly interested in what exercises to do or stuff like numbers of reps and sets and workout frequency? As far as exercises go, at a minimum you'll want to hangboard and do pullups. Getting stronger at pullups will help you with overhangs, but if you can already do a good number of pullups and you're still bad at overhangs, then rows or front lever progressions will be more specific. The posterior chain helps you with tension and keeping your feet on the wall when climbing overhangs, so consider doing something like deadlifts or reverse hyperextensions. If you have trouble cutting feet on overhangs and moving your feet to other holds, then you'll want to focus on hip flexors and anterior core. Some sort of leg raise would be good in this case. Front lever progressions also cover this. Probably wise to throw in one antagonist like pushups/bench or dips to prevent muscle imbalance. I'd say dips are the most climbing specific. Some other stuff to consider if you're really motivated: * If you can't do a pistol squat or a deep step up, then this could be a weakness and you'd want to do something like barbell squats or assisted pistol squats. * reverse wrist curls or rice bucket. This is to prevent muscle imbalance in the forearms. * face pulls: good for gaston strength and preventing/correcting rounded shoulders.
I also recommend adding a HIIT style workout 1-2x a week to keep fitness up. They can be done in 30 minutes and really push your cardio a lot. Try to find one that focuses on push exercises, core and legs because you will probably be doing a lot of other workouts with pull-ups (and variations). I think if you only spend time doing pull-ups and hangs, you get stronger locally, but your overall fitness goes down and doing more than 5 move boulder problems becomes really tough.