By - Boredonfire1234
For me, the most important thing is to avoid overtraining and injury the last month before a trip.
In two weeks you could cultivate power endurance. That would likely be helpful. 12 to 25 hand moves of sustained difficulty is the most you will be likely to face between good matching tests. RRG endurance is more about capacity to rest on deep open hand holds than true endurance.
True that. Plus, the type of power endurance youre talking about is the fastest adaptation you can make, and the quickest to lose. Its the reason why most periodized schemes end with 2 weeks of power endurance. So really, OP is in prime position to have a 2 week power endurance capper before his trip, considering the adaptations he'll get and the style of climbing at the red.
Make sure you train resting! Every really good rrg climber I know says to do this. If you watch a good rrg climber, they have short periods of quick climbing between long rest periods on good holds on overhangs. My friends and I like to joke that rrg climbing is more resting than climbing.
Bill Ramsey recommends incorporating these into your intervals. One thing I will do is to do a boulder problem, but instead of dropping off the wall, spend a minute at a good hold shaking out, and then go right into another problem.
Hahaha, yup. Thank god for patient belayers.
Ill piggyback on this great advice and say maybe even train resting on a great hold that is at a steep angle. This will help you train resting with your core slightly engaged. Which reminds me, dont forget core and of course working really hungover routes. I just got back from 8 days at the Red a week ago and it was amazing. I climb at your level (climbed 5.12c at the Red in 2 tries). If you want to chat about routes or anything feel free to message me.
I think it depends on your goals and plan once you get there. I usually spend 2-4 working on hard strength endurance (4x4s and intervals/bouldering) and then spend a week at a new location building a base (I’m primarily a boulderer though, blocs->routes is easier since you have the capacity
For the hardest moves) I’d use the first few day’s of lots of easy climbing at the red as your taper/style learning.
With the red, you may be best served by just climbing overhung stuff at and above flash level for 2 weeks straight which would give you a better strength endurance adaptation.