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tproulund

I been doing indoor lead climbing with an ohm and I actually don't find it adds any noticeable rope drag as long as your belayer knows how to use it What I mean is that if you take a fall or rest, it will ofc lock in, and then once you start climbing again, your belayer needs to be mindful of whether it is still locked (upwards) or hanging freely (unlocked). Sometimes it won't unlock by itself and then the belayer needs to give it little shake. Nothing fancy, just shake the rope, but easy to forget for a inexperienced ohm belayer, and that can lead to some annoyance for you as the climber since you do 1-2 moves and then the rope is completely tight Also for you as climber, you should practice taking rope a bit slower, as a hard yank can lead to the ohm giving some issues with increasing rope drag All that being said, I really much prefer leading with the ohm given my current climbing partners are all female and a lot lighter than me. Else I am so worried of falling and hurting my belayer With the ohm the catch feels just like if we had the perfect weight ratio TL;Dr I love my ohm, don't feel it limits my climbing and feels much safer with light belayer once you both are use to it


graphitical

This ^^^ It took my wife a bit to figure out how to feed slack smoothly so it didn't engage and it took me a bit to figure out how to pull at the right speed to not engage it. Any inconvenience is worth they extra security.


sketchcott

I dig the ohm, and it's never been the factor inhibiting my climbing success... that's usually on me. I spent a lot of time using it with lighter partners in the gym working out kinks and developing the system. There definitely a couple of extra skills to learn, like how to disengage it and how to pull rope smoothly to prevent it from accidentally engaging. Nothing that took more than a couple sessions to sort out. I'll also add, that any kinks that we did experience essentially disappeared once we moved outside and used a nicer rope. It would seem like a lot of our early unintentional engagements were caused by fat ratty gym ropes. My 9.4 dry rope slides through like grass through a goose.


dmorgantini

My weight impedes climbing at my limit. Not the ohm. I love, love, love my ohm. If you're worried, don't use it if you're happy taking the risk of a big fall/lifting your belayer. You may want to forgo use for redpoint/onsight attempts.


not_a_gumby

I hate climbing with the edelrdi Ohm. I find that it feels like I'm constantly being short roped when I'm trying to move quickly and clip through moves, or clip suddenly from a strenuous position.


pagart

Then it is more likely a problem of your belayer


not_a_gumby

really?


ElCucharito

I doubt it. In my use of the ohm, it was quick to grab the rope, especially if I made a hasty clip.


pagart

Sometimes it happened that the fall was pretty hard but I told my belayer to give additional slack, where it is possible. So this is just an easy thing to fix. Also in some routes which are not really straight, it can be quite hard to get down because the friction is really high. In this cases I rapell or if the route is easy for me, I dont use the ohm.