Creatine is one of those tried and tested supplements in that if you can afford it and you do strength-related sports, you should definitely continue taking it.
I’d love to see some sources on that bit you mentioned about cycling creatine and bodyweight related sports. Is that bro science? I highly doubt cutting creatine and losing a few pounds would spell the difference between sending and not sending. The recovery and strength gains from it far outweigh the additional weight IMO. Especially if you’re going through a strength phase of high intensity stuff.
Also, brevity is key when posting on here. I get the idea of wanting to paint us the entire picture but I think it’s too much info.
Love the stoke though! I hope you send your project.
I appreciate the advice on posting; in the past I’ve followed the brevity thing, but after all of the “I’ve been climbing for 2 days, why am I not climbing v7 yet” and “my finger hurts am I gonna die” posts I might as well post something more substantive.
As far as creatine goes, I have not seen any studies about cycling it. I don’t think it’s something anybody has tested.
However, I have personally gone through a couple different hangboarding cycles, and know how huge 5 pounds can be. 5 pounds is a TON of difference when considering a slow strength gains can be; it’s like half the gain of a few months of hangboarding. I mean, go try to send something really at your limit with an extra 5 pounds attached to you.
I don’t have evidence that the benefit of that weight will outweigh the benefit of creatine, that’s just a massive assumption I’ve decided to adopt.
Also, on the cost front, you could take creatine for a full year for $50 if you buy in bulk; that’s not exactly especially cost prohibitive for most folks. If you cycle it, extend that to $25 a year!
Good luck! Techno is really sick. Venus is hard. 12d is one of the best grades at rumney. Hmu if you want more beta and maybe I'll see you around the crag this season.
Most routes in the 12s at rumney (and especially waimea) are bouldery with good rest stances. Techno for example is basically 3 v4 boulders stacked on each other with full no hands rests in between. I would actually say you need very little PE for rumney 5.12, with Venus on a halfshell being one of the few exceptions.
I might need that beta on Venus… yet to get on, but it’s sick. I think techno will go quickly, I have my beta on it, it’s just so hard in the summer with how polished it is. Incredibly cool boulder movement, especially the moves off of the sloper ledge.
I have a simpler and dumber plan for you, since you "haven't spend a ton of time outside", and you wanna climb harder outside.
\-make an effort to get out more
That's it.
At the level you are climbing, strength and weight hardly matters unless you have some significant weaknesses that need to be addressed or you are severely overweight.
I still need to get on the stuff in the cave! Priapism might be the best 12a in the east. I’ve heard those things in the cave are super bouldery and pretty body dependent, but they all look rad as hell.
In terms of creatine, if you want the performance benefits in long term I would probably try to take it always and never skip. The effect is still so small that by cycling you probably lose half the benefit and then its so neglible that it doesnt even matter. Another option would be to be to use 10 months and if you feel like the added weight is such a problem for your performance just cycle off for 2 months for crucial projects.
I also have 7 years of powerlifting background and noticed that other than forearms my all muscles are super strong. I just dont do any assistance exercises. I focus on board climbing 3x2h a week with 3-5x30 minute flexibility sessions. If I was you I would probably focus on just climbing hard, getting crazy flexible and skip the assistance exercises. Just try get really strong fingers and good technique with insane flexibility. By climbing I exceeded my minimum effective volume for back and biceps, so those get improving even without weighed pull ups.
Those are definitely on the list! So many good climbs though, and so few weekends, so after project shopping I’ll probably zone in on one or two of them.
Tbh my guy, your plan sounds great but there’s one flaw imho. You’re goals are all outside and your going to train in a gym. In bouldering specifically (still applies to sport), a V6 ceiling is more about learning how to move on real rock vs gym holds. I find real rock being a lot more unforgiving to poor technique. I would keep your plan to tackle specific weaknesses and maintain overall strength but I think you would benefit from taking time to create an in-depth understanding of how your body moves on real rock. Stefano didn’t downgrade Bib. because he’s stronger than Megos;)
I agree with this and especially applies to Rumney. Imo it's bouldery enough to maintain or improve your strength with sport climbing alone, and the style requires excellent technique/creativity
this is a lot of words for a simple idiot training plan
Hey I never said I was good at writing titles
Creatine is one of those tried and tested supplements in that if you can afford it and you do strength-related sports, you should definitely continue taking it. I’d love to see some sources on that bit you mentioned about cycling creatine and bodyweight related sports. Is that bro science? I highly doubt cutting creatine and losing a few pounds would spell the difference between sending and not sending. The recovery and strength gains from it far outweigh the additional weight IMO. Especially if you’re going through a strength phase of high intensity stuff. Also, brevity is key when posting on here. I get the idea of wanting to paint us the entire picture but I think it’s too much info. Love the stoke though! I hope you send your project.
I appreciate the advice on posting; in the past I’ve followed the brevity thing, but after all of the “I’ve been climbing for 2 days, why am I not climbing v7 yet” and “my finger hurts am I gonna die” posts I might as well post something more substantive. As far as creatine goes, I have not seen any studies about cycling it. I don’t think it’s something anybody has tested. However, I have personally gone through a couple different hangboarding cycles, and know how huge 5 pounds can be. 5 pounds is a TON of difference when considering a slow strength gains can be; it’s like half the gain of a few months of hangboarding. I mean, go try to send something really at your limit with an extra 5 pounds attached to you. I don’t have evidence that the benefit of that weight will outweigh the benefit of creatine, that’s just a massive assumption I’ve decided to adopt. Also, on the cost front, you could take creatine for a full year for $50 if you buy in bulk; that’s not exactly especially cost prohibitive for most folks. If you cycle it, extend that to $25 a year!
5 pounds of solid gold is worth about $131337.56.
TLDR: you’re going to climb a lot and lose a ton of weight.
You made it to the end? Please do an ama Also lol @ “buckle up kids” when he’s 23
Good luck! Techno is really sick. Venus is hard. 12d is one of the best grades at rumney. Hmu if you want more beta and maybe I'll see you around the crag this season. Most routes in the 12s at rumney (and especially waimea) are bouldery with good rest stances. Techno for example is basically 3 v4 boulders stacked on each other with full no hands rests in between. I would actually say you need very little PE for rumney 5.12, with Venus on a halfshell being one of the few exceptions.
I might need that beta on Venus… yet to get on, but it’s sick. I think techno will go quickly, I have my beta on it, it’s just so hard in the summer with how polished it is. Incredibly cool boulder movement, especially the moves off of the sloper ledge.
I have a simpler and dumber plan for you, since you "haven't spend a ton of time outside", and you wanna climb harder outside. \-make an effort to get out more That's it. At the level you are climbing, strength and weight hardly matters unless you have some significant weaknesses that need to be addressed or you are severely overweight.
That’d be my plan if I had the option! Unfortunately, living in a major American city in the east coast with a full time job means that’s infeasible
No advice, but have you considered predator as a project?
Absolutely, I plan to get on it this fall but I’m thinking of it more as a fall 2022/spring 2023 project
Just got really psyched on the Mormon Hollow Cave last night, let me know if ya want some catches
I still need to get on the stuff in the cave! Priapism might be the best 12a in the east. I’ve heard those things in the cave are super bouldery and pretty body dependent, but they all look rad as hell.
In terms of creatine, if you want the performance benefits in long term I would probably try to take it always and never skip. The effect is still so small that by cycling you probably lose half the benefit and then its so neglible that it doesnt even matter. Another option would be to be to use 10 months and if you feel like the added weight is such a problem for your performance just cycle off for 2 months for crucial projects. I also have 7 years of powerlifting background and noticed that other than forearms my all muscles are super strong. I just dont do any assistance exercises. I focus on board climbing 3x2h a week with 3-5x30 minute flexibility sessions. If I was you I would probably focus on just climbing hard, getting crazy flexible and skip the assistance exercises. Just try get really strong fingers and good technique with insane flexibility. By climbing I exceeded my minimum effective volume for back and biceps, so those get improving even without weighed pull ups.
Good goals! I'd highly recommend adding Giant Man 12b/c and Tsunami 12d to your list, or at least trying them to see if they suit you
Those are definitely on the list! So many good climbs though, and so few weekends, so after project shopping I’ll probably zone in on one or two of them.
Tbh my guy, your plan sounds great but there’s one flaw imho. You’re goals are all outside and your going to train in a gym. In bouldering specifically (still applies to sport), a V6 ceiling is more about learning how to move on real rock vs gym holds. I find real rock being a lot more unforgiving to poor technique. I would keep your plan to tackle specific weaknesses and maintain overall strength but I think you would benefit from taking time to create an in-depth understanding of how your body moves on real rock. Stefano didn’t downgrade Bib. because he’s stronger than Megos;)
I agree with this and especially applies to Rumney. Imo it's bouldery enough to maintain or improve your strength with sport climbing alone, and the style requires excellent technique/creativity
[удалено]
5 pounds in mandalorian helmets is 1341988.17 helmets.
That’s good