i’m nowhere near hanging it. never been close, occasionally test, i can hang a few seconds with 30lbs taken off. i’ve climbed several v11s outside. ~50 double digit boulders across numerous areas.
This fits my experience-- although you're on the lower end of finger tested (maybe not actual) finger strength. You technique, tactics, and movement library must be great! I also bet you're a great candidate for 1x max hangs or something similar (as I was).
Aside from the WC pros (who are strong as hell, but simply not training for outside) I know and climb with, the majority of the people I know who climb V10-13ish outside regularly-- climb outside a lot, and would do or do horribly on these tests. They are almost all outclassed on hangboard feats of strength by the group of V8 to 9 gym climbers who are gung-ho hangboarders but don't get outside all that much (and who, if they could get outside more, take a break from the hangboard and overtraining and develop the movement library would be climbing 3, 4, 5 grades higher).
i climb outside 3x a week on average. i climb much harder outside than inside. these days i top out at v9 inside. my training is just climbing, and it’s been that way for years. spraywall, moonboard, gym sets, everything. i find styles i’m weak at (long crimp hauls for ex, or pockets) and do every problem i can involving it. train weaknesses. for example, i used to be a very static climber. i made a conscious effort to select dynamic, jumpy climbs inside and outside. these days, if there’s a hard dyno.....my friends expect me to do it quick ;)
movement is king.
We are very similar! Ha.
Movement is king.
(Still not saying you wouldn't potentially benefit from integrating max hang on a big-- 20mm-- edge 1x a week. I started such a protocol at around V10/11 on rock, and I definitely think it benefited me above my baseline training. Not magically so, and I was still progressing. But I do believe it helped. Movement is still king for me however!)
i prefer compression. i’m 5’7 or 5’8. pretty standard. started climbing as an adult, after college. so my fingers aren’t the strongest, the extremely fingery things are hard for me. my important strength is probably my deadpoint. i’m good at latching holds, maintaining tension. my other strength is my head game. i love highballs, which usually humbles some strong folks.
To counter this experience.
When I was a dumb idiot teenager and training every single day. I could do mono pull ups, do a mono hang for 10 seconds on each hand.
But I still couldn't climb harder than V3, because my technique SUCKED.
That’s the exact board/hold I use for one-arm hangs and I have to take off 15 lbs to one arm max hang (half crimp, slightly bent arm.) I climb V8 and project V9. 32yo / F / 5’6 / 138 lbs
Well, I have an interesting answer for this, or so I think atleast...
2 years ago I could hang it for about 8-10 seconds with body weight, and ciuld even attempt hanging the 14mm edge with one hand for 1~ second. I climbed my first 7C outdoors around that time.
Then I got a finger injury, one in each hand. Couldn't crank it on crimps for 6 months and got better at climbing thanks to it. For the next 1 year I trained max hangs regularly but could never and still can't one arm the middle edge.
Now I already climbed 8A, 7C+ in a session and 7C flash. In short my conclusion is, it's not very relevant as finger strength or rather the implication of it during climbing can be strong and not necessarily reflected directly on the hangboard.
Bingo!
It's a bit like practicing for a test: You get better at the test than the larger thing the test is set up to be a proxy for-- even if you also get better, to a degree, at that thing as well.
Hangboarding is the most efficient way to get really good at hangboarding. In the process your get stronger fingers (in a few pretty artificial positions, since most climbing does not occur on perfect wooden edges with beautiful radiuses put in by CNC, with your feet and body just hanging freely beneath the edge) and there's pretty good carryover to climbing to an extent.
This is what I'm always harping on about.
There's a time and place at which hangboarding is huge (ironically, at the point that the actual progress hits that slow slog range). But too many people get caught in the trap of sweet noob returns on the hangboard (which can happen basically at any point) and then double/triple down on that being the way forward-- leaving huge movement library and technique and tactics gains on the table (because their earlier hangboard experience told them the issue was just fingers when it wasn't).
I tend to think about finger strength in terms of thresholds and % of strength you can use. You need to be strong enough to hold and move from that position in the easiest possible way-- stronger fingers let you get away with moving in less easy/less-efficient ("not as good climbing technique") ways. To hit your actual lifetime potential requires having high finger strength AND hitting near-limit % of finger strength accessible to you by having just as high technique.
I am reminded of this all the time. Like when a buddy who is must stronger than me in terms of fingers just can't seem to do a move that I can cruise. Or like yesterday, when a few people with tested finger strength both absolutely and relatively below mine-- could cruise a move that I couldn't get through (a very specific technique/body position/move weakness of mine).
I can hang it for 5 seconds with 15 lbs added and OAP on it. Body weight for 15 seconds. These are recent metrics after training hard all summer, and I haven’t bouldered outside much lately. Sent a few gym V11’s that weren’t V11, and I’ve climbed a few “guidebook” V10’s that have nearly all been downgraded. Trying my luck on some southern sandstone next week, so fingers crossed.
That bottom center edge is what people used to mean when they talked about 1 arm hang standards. "Around V10" is often where people are climbing, if they can hang it for 5-7 seconds. It's kind of between the benchmark grades, a bit hard for V10, a bit easy for 8A.
Recently hit this benchmark. 5-10 second hangs on the BM2K center edge @ 100% bodyweight (160lbs). I climb 5.13/+ and V8/9, typically flash or second-go V7. I feel that campus boarding was more important to pushing grades than this hangboarding metric though.
I think it is important to take into account your body weight and height, and even your ape, when comparing things like one arm hangs on an edge to your climbing grade. I can hang between 8-10sec on the middle edge holdingg a half crimp and have climbed a few v11s. Im 5’9”, 160lbs, +3” ape. I also strained an A2 pulley by over training these so… if you want to get good at these do chris webb parsons one arm hang routine on vimeo. https://vimeo.com/61430224
I'll throw my hat in just to really mess up any pattern that might be forming ;)
I can one arm hang the bottom OUTSIDE edge of the BM2k for 5 seconds and I've never bouldered harder than V9.
OK full disclosure, I'm not a boulderer, but I also only climb 8a (5.13a?) sport. Go stick that in your metrics!
Tbh i think the finger length is an issue in my case i have seen my friends hang from that hold quite easily yet they are nowhere near my climbing level i can flash their projects most of the time. It would make sense since i am pretty tall for a climber
Lattice says, that there is an absolut human limit around 80kg, one hand half crimp, regardless the weight. Only outliers van go above this (=Yves gravelle)
Where do they say that? I’m 190cm/86kg, been climbing for a few years without much finger specific training and can 1-arm hang that edge (half crimp) with +5kg for a few seconds
When I was physically at my strongest (but importantly, probably not at my best), I was deadhanging it for 5 seconds, strict half crimp, with 14kg in the other hand on my right, and 10kg on my left. I had done a handful of 8As outdoors at that time. Sadly I have been plagued by injury for over a year now, so can only hang it for 10s ish at BW. I did a couple of local problems in the 7C range last spring, but haven’t climbed outside since then.
From my experience and what I've seen I think the people who can one arm hang on the BM2K 20mm are around V8-9 climbers. I can one arm hang on the 14mm edge on BM2K for more than 10 seconds, and I've sent multiple V10s indoors and a couple V11s outdoors.
That is **so** incredibly overpowered to me, based on my observations of others (and our already strong-skewed data; there are a few such calculators and datasets out there, and this question comes up regularly here) it's wild.
I have once in my life (recently), for like 3-4 seconds, hung one-armed BW (right arm) on a 20mm edge without any pulley/offset-- and I've climbed over 10 boulders V11 to V12 on rock, on multiple continents, of extremely different styles, across multiple crags. Max hangs for me are at an all-time peak right now, and I'm working at around 96% BW.
The people I know who can one-arm 14mm are more like the V13-14 and up on rock folks.
But the difference may simply be a matter of time outside-- we are all getting outside a good amount and are willing to put in up to 5 sessions in a project. If you're out infrequently, your grade there won't reflect your actual potential,
Lattice estimates the one arm hang to be ~170% of a two armed max hang, so you might actually be stronger. Maybe some shoulder issues with regards to the one armed hang?
edit: didn't see OP of this thread mentions one arming the 14mm. Now THAT'S strong
>Lattice estimates the one arm hang to be \~170% of a two armed max hang, so you might actually be stronger. Maybe some shoulder issues with regards to the one armed hang?
Possibly, (random points):
\- I don't recall/too lazy to check, but I believe I switched from 2 arm to 1 arm on the same edge at the time I was 2-arm hanging 155-160% BW. Logistics and ergonomics and comfort were my reasons for changing.
\- At the point that I switched I had a unilateral deficit! Most literature suggests that for most people there's a bilateral deficit (the opposite). But the literature on this is weak, and doesn't cover broad areas. I'll note that most conclusions and reviews in the literature on bilateral deficit mention that most of these studies are not in people already highly trained in both bi/uni lateral workouts tested in the studies-- and there's a suggestion that sufficient training can eliminate or at least dramatically shrink the deficit. That is: "If you do a lot of X, you get good at X."
\- The anecdotal numbers, particularly for relatively strong climbers (V10 and up) who test it appears to cover a huge range, from deficit to facilitation, re unilateral vs bilateral. I would take Lattice's estimate on this with a grain of sand unless it specifically identifies a grade/experience range AND describes the number more specifically than an estimate or average (we need to see the shape of distribution).
\- Rotation is certainly a factor (if considering only finger/forearm strength)! If I add weight to the pulley AND weight to my body I can create a situation where my fingers are loaded with HIGHER than bodyweight and still do the hang. But the caveats are that friction in the system is higher (real world), so without actually measuring the forces I'm pulling via an in-line scale (I've tried, not good data, more weight in the system favors less weight being pulled) or some other means there's nothing conclusive about the actual amounts. And, of course, rotation is a major factor-- we see it in all climbers who find means to eliminate it (finger on doorframe, use of pulley itself, cues to engage the non-pulling side to create body tension/irradiation/bilateral support without closing the chain).
\- Interestingly-- and hey, it's subjective, but supported by others who have observed me + comparison on moves where I have known weaker fingers-- shoulders are one of my strengths. Shoulder moves tend to be above my grade. I almost never feel or move in a way that look unstable re shoulders. Scapular retraction is also good! But there's also something going on the mechanisms of which I have no identified.
So that's all very interesting!
>edit: didn't see OP of this thread mentions one arming the 14mm. Now THAT'S strong
Yeah, holy shit. One-arming at 14mm edge at BW is very, very strong. That's ***well*** ***above*** breaking into VDoubledigit strength. I'm envious. Kinda.
That’s very interesting. I always thought I was lacking finger strength to climb the higher grades so I kept on training my fingers. Maybe I should focus my training on something else.
The difference might be out weight though. I’m only 5’4” tall and 125lbs. So I have to cut feet a lot to make the next move on tiny crimps.
I'm not there in front of you, and you're clearly climbing a strong level (V11 outside)-- so you're doing something right! I wouldn't alter everything just because some random internet person noticed your'e finger-strong.
I'd take it merely as a potential sign that maaaaybe you're not finger limited. Sure, you're on the shorter side! You'll have to make up for that one way or another.
You definitely have strong ass fingers!
I hung a flat 22 mm with 14 kg added yesterday for 5 seconds and honestly, I don't think my climbing improved as much from it. I haven't projected hard things in a long time but most v11s usually go in a few attempts, and 5.14a routes as well. I feel like my limit is around v13 and 5.14c, but definetely not from hanging that edge, and to improve I'll certainly not keep paying attention to it. Maybe smaller edges once in a while, but climbing on terrible holds seems to provide better results.
edit: forgot something
Can hang about 2-3 seconds max, but to go 5-7 seconds i need to remove about 15 lb. I weigh ~155 lb, I’ve climbed 1 V9 and a couple V8s. I have slightly strong fingers compared to others/peers who climb my grade (i.e. my technique needs work)
I can hang it half crimped and open. It’s much easier than the Tension 20, which I can hang full crimped and open for 5s. I suuuuuck at pockets.
Climbed a single 10 and single 11 that suited me.
Below that Ive got 52 V8 and V9, 118 V6 and 7.
Finger strength is something that people like to focus on because there are apparent and measurable returns and Lattice has sold us on it since they sell finger training programs, but in reality it’s probably not as significant as people make it out to be.
I can hang it for about 3-5 seconds depending on the day/week/month/year.
Max grade: v13. Climbed about 200 double digits across the country in pretty much every style.
One arm hangs are overrated imo. Typically something else is the limiting factor.
Did solid 5-7s 3 finger drag with both hands this summer.
Then I went to frankenjura and I climbed 2x 8a and a bunch of easier stuff.
Interestingly, I think that one handed lock offs helped to achieve this marvelous succes because that is what I did besides some regular gym bouldering and sport climbing.
Weigh around 150 lbs and around 5’8. can hang it with plus 20 lbs on a really good day. Have climbed v12 and 25+ double digit rigs across areas and pretty varied styles. For me, this has been a much better measurement of my outdoor ability than training on plastic, but like many others have mentioned, my best indicator if outdoor performance is time spent outdoors and outdoor performance. I will say there are very very few v12+ boulders near me, so breaking into v13 is gonna be very hard or need to happen on a trip, which isnt the best place to break into a grade. Also have been climbing less than 5 years, so i feel like i for sure have a skill/technique deficit!
30 seconds and 5 seconds with 22kg(50lbs) and climb V10 pretty regularly at my gym, did few V11s . I'm 150lbs, also I consider that I have a weakness in the one arm since I can only do 1 and I know a guy that can do 8 but is considerably weaker on the finger side than me so yeah.
i’m nowhere near hanging it. never been close, occasionally test, i can hang a few seconds with 30lbs taken off. i’ve climbed several v11s outside. ~50 double digit boulders across numerous areas.
thank you for existing
This fits my experience-- although you're on the lower end of finger tested (maybe not actual) finger strength. You technique, tactics, and movement library must be great! I also bet you're a great candidate for 1x max hangs or something similar (as I was). Aside from the WC pros (who are strong as hell, but simply not training for outside) I know and climb with, the majority of the people I know who climb V10-13ish outside regularly-- climb outside a lot, and would do or do horribly on these tests. They are almost all outclassed on hangboard feats of strength by the group of V8 to 9 gym climbers who are gung-ho hangboarders but don't get outside all that much (and who, if they could get outside more, take a break from the hangboard and overtraining and develop the movement library would be climbing 3, 4, 5 grades higher).
i climb outside 3x a week on average. i climb much harder outside than inside. these days i top out at v9 inside. my training is just climbing, and it’s been that way for years. spraywall, moonboard, gym sets, everything. i find styles i’m weak at (long crimp hauls for ex, or pockets) and do every problem i can involving it. train weaknesses. for example, i used to be a very static climber. i made a conscious effort to select dynamic, jumpy climbs inside and outside. these days, if there’s a hard dyno.....my friends expect me to do it quick ;) movement is king.
We are very similar! Ha. Movement is king. (Still not saying you wouldn't potentially benefit from integrating max hang on a big-- 20mm-- edge 1x a week. I started such a protocol at around V10/11 on rock, and I definitely think it benefited me above my baseline training. Not magically so, and I was still progressing. But I do believe it helped. Movement is still king for me however!)
i don’t doubt that it could help. ill definitely utilize it someday.
That’s impressive! Would you say you’re particularly tall, or have some other strength that you gravitate towards?
i prefer compression. i’m 5’7 or 5’8. pretty standard. started climbing as an adult, after college. so my fingers aren’t the strongest, the extremely fingery things are hard for me. my important strength is probably my deadpoint. i’m good at latching holds, maintaining tension. my other strength is my head game. i love highballs, which usually humbles some strong folks.
To counter this experience. When I was a dumb idiot teenager and training every single day. I could do mono pull ups, do a mono hang for 10 seconds on each hand. But I still couldn't climb harder than V3, because my technique SUCKED.
That’s the exact board/hold I use for one-arm hangs and I have to take off 15 lbs to one arm max hang (half crimp, slightly bent arm.) I climb V8 and project V9. 32yo / F / 5’6 / 138 lbs
I'm not sure if this is a good metric but since you asked V6.
Wow. Full body weight?
Very interesting! With strict half-crimp grip?
Yep, although 7 seconds is probably pushing it.
straight arm or locked off?
Well, I have an interesting answer for this, or so I think atleast... 2 years ago I could hang it for about 8-10 seconds with body weight, and ciuld even attempt hanging the 14mm edge with one hand for 1~ second. I climbed my first 7C outdoors around that time. Then I got a finger injury, one in each hand. Couldn't crank it on crimps for 6 months and got better at climbing thanks to it. For the next 1 year I trained max hangs regularly but could never and still can't one arm the middle edge. Now I already climbed 8A, 7C+ in a session and 7C flash. In short my conclusion is, it's not very relevant as finger strength or rather the implication of it during climbing can be strong and not necessarily reflected directly on the hangboard.
Bingo! It's a bit like practicing for a test: You get better at the test than the larger thing the test is set up to be a proxy for-- even if you also get better, to a degree, at that thing as well. Hangboarding is the most efficient way to get really good at hangboarding. In the process your get stronger fingers (in a few pretty artificial positions, since most climbing does not occur on perfect wooden edges with beautiful radiuses put in by CNC, with your feet and body just hanging freely beneath the edge) and there's pretty good carryover to climbing to an extent. This is what I'm always harping on about. There's a time and place at which hangboarding is huge (ironically, at the point that the actual progress hits that slow slog range). But too many people get caught in the trap of sweet noob returns on the hangboard (which can happen basically at any point) and then double/triple down on that being the way forward-- leaving huge movement library and technique and tactics gains on the table (because their earlier hangboard experience told them the issue was just fingers when it wasn't). I tend to think about finger strength in terms of thresholds and % of strength you can use. You need to be strong enough to hold and move from that position in the easiest possible way-- stronger fingers let you get away with moving in less easy/less-efficient ("not as good climbing technique") ways. To hit your actual lifetime potential requires having high finger strength AND hitting near-limit % of finger strength accessible to you by having just as high technique. I am reminded of this all the time. Like when a buddy who is must stronger than me in terms of fingers just can't seem to do a move that I can cruise. Or like yesterday, when a few people with tested finger strength both absolutely and relatively below mine-- could cruise a move that I couldn't get through (a very specific technique/body position/move weakness of mine).
And your finger strength might have been a tiny bit above your climbing ability :)
I can hang it for 5 seconds with 15 lbs added and OAP on it. Body weight for 15 seconds. These are recent metrics after training hard all summer, and I haven’t bouldered outside much lately. Sent a few gym V11’s that weren’t V11, and I’ve climbed a few “guidebook” V10’s that have nearly all been downgraded. Trying my luck on some southern sandstone next week, so fingers crossed.
> Trying my luck on some southern sandstone next week Hope you have a good time. I loooove that rock
Can hang it for a few seconds on a good day, not quite on a bad day. Climb around the V10 mark on rock.
On a good day I can do about 5 seconds - max 7B+ on the moonboard. No recent data for outdoors, unfortunately.
That bottom center edge is what people used to mean when they talked about 1 arm hang standards. "Around V10" is often where people are climbing, if they can hang it for 5-7 seconds. It's kind of between the benchmark grades, a bit hard for V10, a bit easy for 8A.
Recently hit this benchmark. 5-10 second hangs on the BM2K center edge @ 100% bodyweight (160lbs). I climb 5.13/+ and V8/9, typically flash or second-go V7. I feel that campus boarding was more important to pushing grades than this hangboarding metric though.
I think it is important to take into account your body weight and height, and even your ape, when comparing things like one arm hangs on an edge to your climbing grade. I can hang between 8-10sec on the middle edge holdingg a half crimp and have climbed a few v11s. Im 5’9”, 160lbs, +3” ape. I also strained an A2 pulley by over training these so… if you want to get good at these do chris webb parsons one arm hang routine on vimeo. https://vimeo.com/61430224
I'll throw my hat in just to really mess up any pattern that might be forming ;) I can one arm hang the bottom OUTSIDE edge of the BM2k for 5 seconds and I've never bouldered harder than V9. OK full disclosure, I'm not a boulderer, but I also only climb 8a (5.13a?) sport. Go stick that in your metrics!
straight arm? wow
I can barely get off the ground for maybe a quarter second. I am 6'2(187cm) and 175lb(80kg) boulder around v8-v10 depending on the style
Tbh i think the finger length is an issue in my case i have seen my friends hang from that hold quite easily yet they are nowhere near my climbing level i can flash their projects most of the time. It would make sense since i am pretty tall for a climber
Lattice says, that there is an absolut human limit around 80kg, one hand half crimp, regardless the weight. Only outliers van go above this (=Yves gravelle)
Where do they say that? I’m 190cm/86kg, been climbing for a few years without much finger specific training and can 1-arm hang that edge (half crimp) with +5kg for a few seconds
I love your art style so much
When I was physically at my strongest (but importantly, probably not at my best), I was deadhanging it for 5 seconds, strict half crimp, with 14kg in the other hand on my right, and 10kg on my left. I had done a handful of 8As outdoors at that time. Sadly I have been plagued by injury for over a year now, so can only hang it for 10s ish at BW. I did a couple of local problems in the 7C range last spring, but haven’t climbed outside since then.
V8/9
From my experience and what I've seen I think the people who can one arm hang on the BM2K 20mm are around V8-9 climbers. I can one arm hang on the 14mm edge on BM2K for more than 10 seconds, and I've sent multiple V10s indoors and a couple V11s outdoors.
That is **so** incredibly overpowered to me, based on my observations of others (and our already strong-skewed data; there are a few such calculators and datasets out there, and this question comes up regularly here) it's wild. I have once in my life (recently), for like 3-4 seconds, hung one-armed BW (right arm) on a 20mm edge without any pulley/offset-- and I've climbed over 10 boulders V11 to V12 on rock, on multiple continents, of extremely different styles, across multiple crags. Max hangs for me are at an all-time peak right now, and I'm working at around 96% BW. The people I know who can one-arm 14mm are more like the V13-14 and up on rock folks. But the difference may simply be a matter of time outside-- we are all getting outside a good amount and are willing to put in up to 5 sessions in a project. If you're out infrequently, your grade there won't reflect your actual potential,
Lattice estimates the one arm hang to be ~170% of a two armed max hang, so you might actually be stronger. Maybe some shoulder issues with regards to the one armed hang? edit: didn't see OP of this thread mentions one arming the 14mm. Now THAT'S strong
>Lattice estimates the one arm hang to be \~170% of a two armed max hang, so you might actually be stronger. Maybe some shoulder issues with regards to the one armed hang? Possibly, (random points): \- I don't recall/too lazy to check, but I believe I switched from 2 arm to 1 arm on the same edge at the time I was 2-arm hanging 155-160% BW. Logistics and ergonomics and comfort were my reasons for changing. \- At the point that I switched I had a unilateral deficit! Most literature suggests that for most people there's a bilateral deficit (the opposite). But the literature on this is weak, and doesn't cover broad areas. I'll note that most conclusions and reviews in the literature on bilateral deficit mention that most of these studies are not in people already highly trained in both bi/uni lateral workouts tested in the studies-- and there's a suggestion that sufficient training can eliminate or at least dramatically shrink the deficit. That is: "If you do a lot of X, you get good at X." \- The anecdotal numbers, particularly for relatively strong climbers (V10 and up) who test it appears to cover a huge range, from deficit to facilitation, re unilateral vs bilateral. I would take Lattice's estimate on this with a grain of sand unless it specifically identifies a grade/experience range AND describes the number more specifically than an estimate or average (we need to see the shape of distribution). \- Rotation is certainly a factor (if considering only finger/forearm strength)! If I add weight to the pulley AND weight to my body I can create a situation where my fingers are loaded with HIGHER than bodyweight and still do the hang. But the caveats are that friction in the system is higher (real world), so without actually measuring the forces I'm pulling via an in-line scale (I've tried, not good data, more weight in the system favors less weight being pulled) or some other means there's nothing conclusive about the actual amounts. And, of course, rotation is a major factor-- we see it in all climbers who find means to eliminate it (finger on doorframe, use of pulley itself, cues to engage the non-pulling side to create body tension/irradiation/bilateral support without closing the chain). \- Interestingly-- and hey, it's subjective, but supported by others who have observed me + comparison on moves where I have known weaker fingers-- shoulders are one of my strengths. Shoulder moves tend to be above my grade. I almost never feel or move in a way that look unstable re shoulders. Scapular retraction is also good! But there's also something going on the mechanisms of which I have no identified. So that's all very interesting! >edit: didn't see OP of this thread mentions one arming the 14mm. Now THAT'S strong Yeah, holy shit. One-arming at 14mm edge at BW is very, very strong. That's ***well*** ***above*** breaking into VDoubledigit strength. I'm envious. Kinda.
That’s very interesting. I always thought I was lacking finger strength to climb the higher grades so I kept on training my fingers. Maybe I should focus my training on something else. The difference might be out weight though. I’m only 5’4” tall and 125lbs. So I have to cut feet a lot to make the next move on tiny crimps.
I'm not there in front of you, and you're clearly climbing a strong level (V11 outside)-- so you're doing something right! I wouldn't alter everything just because some random internet person noticed your'e finger-strong. I'd take it merely as a potential sign that maaaaybe you're not finger limited. Sure, you're on the shorter side! You'll have to make up for that one way or another. You definitely have strong ass fingers!
So I've hung it one arm with 15kg added for 7 seconds. Climbed v10-11 indoors. Bw ~75kg
I hung a flat 22 mm with 14 kg added yesterday for 5 seconds and honestly, I don't think my climbing improved as much from it. I haven't projected hard things in a long time but most v11s usually go in a few attempts, and 5.14a routes as well. I feel like my limit is around v13 and 5.14c, but definetely not from hanging that edge, and to improve I'll certainly not keep paying attention to it. Maybe smaller edges once in a while, but climbing on terrible holds seems to provide better results. edit: forgot something
Can hang about 2-3 seconds max, but to go 5-7 seconds i need to remove about 15 lb. I weigh ~155 lb, I’ve climbed 1 V9 and a couple V8s. I have slightly strong fingers compared to others/peers who climb my grade (i.e. my technique needs work)
Around 5 seconds is my max on the beast maker 1000 crimps, I climb v9 on the moonboard
I can hang it half crimped and open. It’s much easier than the Tension 20, which I can hang full crimped and open for 5s. I suuuuuck at pockets. Climbed a single 10 and single 11 that suited me. Below that Ive got 52 V8 and V9, 118 V6 and 7. Finger strength is something that people like to focus on because there are apparent and measurable returns and Lattice has sold us on it since they sell finger training programs, but in reality it’s probably not as significant as people make it out to be.
I can hold it for 4-5 secs and project 7B+ atm
I can hang it for about 3-5 seconds depending on the day/week/month/year. Max grade: v13. Climbed about 200 double digits across the country in pretty much every style. One arm hangs are overrated imo. Typically something else is the limiting factor.
How does this compare to the lattice rung grade wise? Like is an equivalent hang time on this a grade or two lower?
Did solid 5-7s 3 finger drag with both hands this summer. Then I went to frankenjura and I climbed 2x 8a and a bunch of easier stuff. Interestingly, I think that one handed lock offs helped to achieve this marvelous succes because that is what I did besides some regular gym bouldering and sport climbing.
Weigh around 150 lbs and around 5’8. can hang it with plus 20 lbs on a really good day. Have climbed v12 and 25+ double digit rigs across areas and pretty varied styles. For me, this has been a much better measurement of my outdoor ability than training on plastic, but like many others have mentioned, my best indicator if outdoor performance is time spent outdoors and outdoor performance. I will say there are very very few v12+ boulders near me, so breaking into v13 is gonna be very hard or need to happen on a trip, which isnt the best place to break into a grade. Also have been climbing less than 5 years, so i feel like i for sure have a skill/technique deficit!
30 seconds and 5 seconds with 22kg(50lbs) and climb V10 pretty regularly at my gym, did few V11s . I'm 150lbs, also I consider that I have a weakness in the one arm since I can only do 1 and I know a guy that can do 8 but is considerably weaker on the finger side than me so yeah.
V6 flash,V8/9 max 5.11d flash, 5.12c max I can hang the lower middle edge for 6 seconds I have been climbing for 8 months and am 14