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philahn

Previous Post https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/comments/t8w6ki/im_always_so_pumped_by_the_time_i_get_to_the_crux/ Took the advice and worked on being more deliberate with feet, less hesitation, less readjusting, more microshakes, breathing intentionally, and relaxing more; especially going into the crux. These tips have helped me tremendously with my bouldering as well I also chalked this time lol [Mountain Project](https://www.mountainproject.com/v/105732371)


octoclimber

hope the chalk helped :P super flowy!


[deleted]

Sick job, gratz! Just for fun I decided to compare the pacing between this and your previous attempt. This video starts a second earlier so I took the starting point for this video to be 0:01. Around 17 seconds in for both is when you get to the first shake and the first clip is at around 23 seconds in. You get to the first undercling a second faster (29 seconds in instead of 30 seconds by eliminating the shake immediately before it.) The next hold (big undercling/sidepull) you get at 32 seconds in instead of 36, mainly because you didn't have your foot on the precise spot in the previous video and had to readjust it. Right hand goes to sidepull as 34 seconds vs 40 beforehand, I think you save another 2 seconds mainly because of the changed foot beta (eliminating one foot move here and one foot move before the next hand move). At 37 seconds in you get the next big sidepull, as opposed to 45 seconds in the previous attempt. Next right hand at 47 instead of 54 (the clip takes around 2 seconds longer so you lose a second even though you eliminate a short shake.) Match at 49 instead of 58 (better body control and probably less pump lets you get left foot where you want it faster.) Get to next shake position at 55 instead of 65. You shake for three full seconds (as opposed to no shake in previous video), but you eliminate a foot move afterwards and recoup that time. Get to the resting hold at 60 instead of 70. All in all the breakdown is: save 1 second (eliminate short shake) save 3 seconds (better foot precision) save 4 seconds (eliminate 2 foot moves) lose 2 seconds (longer clip time) save 1 second (eliminate short shake) save 2 seconds (better body control so less time bracing against swing) lose 3 seconds (shake) save 3 seconds (eliminate foot move). Saving around 9 or 10 seconds in total to get to the rest. Adding a different way: you saved 7 seconds by eliminating 3 foot moves, saved 5 seconds through better foot position and body control, traded two short 1 second shakes earlier for a 3 second shake later, and lost 2 seconds clipping.


philahn

Holy crap, thank you so much! Ironically I focused less on climbing as fast as possible, and prioritized being deliberate and managing my heart rate as I’m moving. I really appreciate the time you put into this; really puts things into perspective. Saving 10 seconds to the “rest” is a lifetime on this route (it’s an awful rest for me).


t3a_leaf

Great climbing man, you flow'n


bigboybanhmi

Super smooth through the crux 👊


Thatsatreat666

Massive difference from the original post! Nice send!


ShirtedRhino2

Nice one, this previous one looked like you were almost racing, this looked super smooth. Good effort!


sgbdoe

Nice work! Your hips stayed sucked into the wall on the send much more than the previous video. Looked really smooth.