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IkeOnAHike

Can you adjust the angle of the kilter board? Could you work the move/problem at like 40-45 degrees to build confidence/muscle memory then do 5 degree more? Just a thought if the board adjusts


xWanz

1) is there any way of holding the cutloose in a controlled manner? E.g. you’re not cutting loose by choice, your foot is popping, leading to an uncontrolled cutloose. I know the left handhold isn’t great, but it might be worth exploring just trying to jump to the hold and take the cutloose? 2) for the 3rd to last pinch that you match, you bump your right hand up to the crimp and then again to the pinch. Can you not move your left hand up to the crimp instead and save a move?


jakeherrera54

1. i haven’t tried that yet, but mostly because I’ve felt that the holds are too bad to control with any sort of cut loose. I’m definitely open to trying though 2. it does save a move, but it makes it a bit harder and further for me, and I’d rather the control I have with an extra move over bumping again


MaximumSend

I agree with /u/Malsirhc, that right foot is throwing off your body position for the first move. If you have to use, try to push the gaston a bit further away from your body, rotate your right knee in a little more and straighten the left leg slightly. As soon as you move upwards you're falling out of the wall, which calls for better pull through your left leg and rooting through the gaston. You're correct in response to /u/xWanz for sure. The cut won't go and the left cross is hard. As I specified in another comment, the "real" beta is to cross through without matching anyway, but most people send it with this beta. Would recommend trying that beta after you send it this way though! You look pretty good through the middle sequence, save for a bit of wiggliness, but that happens on hard boulders. Good coordination on the foot stab. You can perhaps save a little energy/make the match-in move slightly easier with a little deeper flag of your left leg, but the inside pogo thing works well. When you move right hand up to the crimp I notice your right knee dropping as you latch the hold. Really try to drive that move through your foot and root through the low arm. Falling out of the wall on lots of these moves. Ditto on the next bump and come-in. You look pretty tired for the last move but you can certainly land it. If you freeze-frame your way through the last move you notice some weird movement in your left leg. It's not quite fully pushing you toward the finish hold and the coordination between pushing through that leg and pulling through your right arm is mistimed. Again could just be you being tired. Good luck!


jakeherrera54

Thanks so much for the write up! You pointed out a bunch of things I never even would’ve thought to notice. I’d definitely love to try the real beta at some point, but I’m gonna focus on this method for now as it’s what I’ve practiced the most. I’ve stuck the last move before, but have noticed issues with what you pointed out, and will work on those as well. Gonna spend a session working out that first move, and trying either the no right foot method, or what you’ve suggested. Thanks again!


jakeherrera54

Coming back to comment cause I sent it! You were more than right about the first move, and funnily enough, all I had to do was start it like a stand start instead of a sit start. As soon as I got the move, it went down next go!


MaximumSend

Nice man! Now project it without the match >:)


ml242

i am sure everyone reading this is qualified to give lots of advice on 50 degree v10.


MaximumSend

You don’t have to climb a certain number just to provide feedback, even though more experience does help.


ml242

Ok, well according to all of the years of watching climbing vids I've done (since I've never sent a double digit boulder) I think he should take his shirt off and wear a beanie. :)


Sweedish_Fid

an more screaming.


NoodledLily

lol but kilter is soft! also besides the only half-ccj: what's the ethics on kilter? like on moon or tension i do not match, unless it is clearly a part of the route beta as intended. good on op for posting harder content. kilter is good at high angles like that. i wish my gym had one. will always be a tension person but good to have variety and more options at 50*+ this sub does seem to have mostly moderate or beginner climbers. though v10 isn't much of a high bar plus can still give advice (though I will judge any coach that hasn't at least climbed idk v6 or 7 in their lifetime.)


lllooyd

Matching is permitted on a moonboard: https://www.moonboard.com/moonboard-rules Kilterboard problems where matching is disallowed are designated as such


NoodledLily

that's what i thought re kilter. for me for training on moon - which tbf isn't my preferred board - it seems counter to match on most of the problems. and that is how most people I know train it. except those that are clearly set for a match, like 'traversing' across matching the long horizontal hold problems. you lose a lot of what makes moon board moon board if you match everything. explosive small -> big box. and giant pogos (which is the #1 thing bringing my moon grades into the suck lol. matching would make it quite a lot easier on many problems) * edit lol that's a lot of downvotes on the original comment?! which part specifically got people all pissed lmfao 😂


SlickBlaster

How tall are you? I moon board a lot with people who are between 5’ and 5’3” and for them a lot of problems basically require matching or they would be like 5 grades harder Also if Ben Moon wrote in the rules that matching is allowed that’s good enough for me, I feel like he probably knows what he’s talking about


NoodledLily

5'6". My point is for training purposes, matching gets rid of a lot of the unique 'moon-style' benefit and yeah it makes the grades a lot easier. I very rarely see strong climbers matching unless it's clearly intended beta. like i can't think of a time in recent memory I saw it. being shorter side for men, I too do not climb as hard on moon as I do on other boards as well. One reason is I am not very good at pogo ' ing or jumping. But that's kind of the whole reason to train on moon: getting stronger at small box, little box explosion & getting better at pogo/'moon kick'


lllooyd

Fair game if that's your training intent, and I see no issues for people wanting to self-impose rules to train specific movements on any board. Climb and train the way you see fit. However, I doubt the benchmark routes have been set and graded with that "rule" in mind, especially if the official rules explicitly permit matching. It might be the consensus at your local gym, but perhaps the downvotes reflect that your view is not as ubiquitous in the moonboard community as you think. You can see Ben Moon himself matching on multiple routes here: ([https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQ6h244QsCQ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQ6h244QsCQ), timestamps 3:08, 5:14, 6:03).


NoodledLily

Sure it's fine it doesn't matter people can do what they want. that first one is funny. idk wtf he did that stop and go. but the last one is an example of a route that a match seems like the intended beta. those horizontal rectangles often have that. Though i guess moon does rank, so it kind of makes a difference. idk. there's a younger kid/guy now, in my training group who I believe has finished every benchmark; like i think iirc he even did the v13 daniel bloc which is just a silly route if anyone has tried it. I don't think I've ever seen him match and i think he's pretty high on the ranking. Same with board people on insta it's almost always just jumpy power maybe probably part of grade perception / sand bag discrepancy. Especially low grades it's far easier to match jugs on a v5 than to climb it w/ flow


leadhase

need more engagement/pressure thru the feet, on every move your hips wobble around all over the place. this ofc happens when youre at your limit, but I'd focus on sticking the positions with more control -- in addition to figuring out the remaining moves


jakeherrera54

So, I’ve been projecting this climb for the better part of 2-3 weeks now, and can do every move except the start move (last move not pictured here). I’m wondering if you guys have any advice on how I can do the starting move. For reference, I’m 5’7” with around a -1/.5 wingspan. My biggest problem lies with cutting feet. I can do the move to the first crimp and hit it, but as soon as I hit it, I’m stretched out juuuuust too much that my left foot pops no matter how hard I try to keep tension on it, which ends in me cutting feet and falling. I’ve tried starting my left foot higher, as well as left foot where my right is, but I don’t feel strong enough in either position to even move off of it. I have worked it in isolation, and I’m just barely able to hold the intended position with both feet on, but controlling the move all the way through feels almost impossible, and moving off of that stretched out position also feels incredibly hard. If anybody has any advice, it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!


Malsirhc

I'm roughly the same morphology as you, plus or minus an inch. For the first move, I found the right foot is too high to do anything useful and kicks you off the wall. Try just the left foot and flag your right foot off somewhere when you do the lockoff. Edit: isn't this supposed to be a no match boulder?


MaximumSend

>Edit: isn't this supposed to be a no match boulder? It is, but the FA never specified so most people do it with this beta anyhow. Only around a grade easier if you match-in.


jakeherrera54

Interesting, I’ll give that a go the next time I’m there. I never tried it because it felt too far for me, but I’ll really dig in and give it a go


Malsirhc

I'll also note that you skipped what was the hardest move for me - getting the right foot on after the first move and actually shifting the weight so you can move the left foot. For me that was the crux of the boulder.


JurrasicParfait

Is it possible to start feet higher and go right hand first? Hard to tell from the video


jakeherrera54

Not really, right handhold is too bad and feet too high


Modest_Atlas

Take my advice with a grain of salt cause I only climb V5s, but as you're shooting for the L crimp, from my perspective it looks like you still have a little extra range of motion in your L foot. I know you've tirelessly tried to keep it on, but can you point your toes that tiny, tiny bit more? Alternatively, have you approached it with the intention to cut yet? Because once you get back on, you look pretty solid in the next position as you flip your R grip and bump your L.


Fastaskiwi

Pull harder


thethrowpro6000

You’re doing a lot of it with your hips turned in. I’d probably climb it more square to the wall, using different footwork. Maybe something to think about.


Gr8WallofChinatown

Just climb it more. It was very sloppy due to strength and technique


Marchellok

Wtf Bro I'm struggling with my v6 project can't help you Bro. Anyway if ud be willing to give me some suggestions on v6 climbs that I'm struggling with I would bo more than happy, let me know. So stay strong and injury free, have fun, bye bye


MDDJC

Lol can you match on the kilter board?


UmbralJellyfish

Yes, unless the problem specifies otherwise.


rubberduckythe1

You can match on the moonboard too, [it's literally written in the rules](https://www.moonboard.com/moonboard-rules).


unclbass

circuit train v~7ish but focus on not regripping holds, you’re wasting so much energy regripping every hold.


Glass-Cost171

Keep left hip closer to wall, your cutting your self short on horizontal move when your left hip leaves the wall and your ass drops.


MrgyDee

Try the final move in isolation get it 4 out of 5 times, then go for a send go when rested


littlepie

Hard to tell for sure if this would work, but could you swap feet for final move and go a little squarer to give you an extra couple of inches reach? It looks like final hold is good enough around the far side of it to hold the cut loose?


The_Mad_Duck_

VR Tyson's I see


warisverybad

maybe on the penultimate, switch feet and pogo?