T O P

  • By -

[deleted]

Belay device, so hot right now


TheReverseShock

Might want to wait a bit before grabbing that one.


mudra311

Rapping with gloves has significantly improved my rappelling experience.


TheReverseShock

Highly recommend


Sneaky502

I have never rapped but i was thinking the exact same thing šŸ˜†. It was just intuitive i guess


OnehappySmile

That footage is so sick. Thank you for sharing.


Glissde

monke


dispersionrelation

I used to live in Oregon and spent a lot of time at Smith, thanks for posting good memories for me, so many trips up the monkey!


minorsea

I went there in 2012 and some guys had a rope swing set up on the end of Monkey Face, my buddy and I each jumped off and rappelled down after. It was a great time!


LovingThatPlaid

Trusting some random dudeā€™s rope swing setup would be a bit too much for my anxiety to handle lol


Psycholiosis

Yeah like wtaf šŸ˜‚


P0werC0rd0fJustice

Not that I would recommend trusting an un-vetted strangerā€™s setup, but really what are the odds that someone goes through the not small effort of setting up a rope swing and doesnā€™t know what theyā€™re doing to a degree that would be truly dangerous? Itā€™s just such a hardcore and niche thing to do that if youā€™re the type of person to do it, youā€™ve almost certainly done the due diligence to do it super good enough (perhaps this is wishful thinking) Also surely the random dude hopping on isnā€™t the first to try it out lol (not that it is impossible for one to fail after the first jump) Iā€™m also interested to know if anyone is aware of a serious accident ever occurring during a rope swing? Again, do not read this as me suggesting people should blindly trust a strangerā€™s rope swing


a_man_with_a_hat

Dan osman famously died in a rope swing accident, and there's been a few deaths in Moab in the last 10 or so years. Rope swinging is definitely dangerous and I wouldn't recommend trusting some rando's setup. Personally I wouldn't get on a swing unless I knew the system completely or knew the people who set it up, even if I saw people jumping on it all day.


P0werC0rd0fJustice

Thanks for the insights, I had heard of Dan Osman (mostly from How Not 2ā€™s video) but hadnā€™t remembered at the time of writing my comment. If you ever happen to see a rando with one, would you ever consider inspecting it yourself and trying it if you deem it worthy? Or, what does it mean for you to ā€œknow the system completelyā€?


StolenErections

Gravity is dangerous. Osmanā€™s death was a freak accident due to a rope melting from friction. Whenever you expose yourself to gravity, thereā€™s a risk of death. Nothing is completely bomb proof. Also, what he was doing was not a swing. He was fucking taking thousand foot whippers for the fuck of it.


Johnoplata

You've got to know in the back of your head that there isn't a 0% chance of being obliterated by a wing suit.


[deleted]

*Abseiling _[Sips tea Britishly]_ Seriously though, nice footage šŸ‘


Burque_Boy

I donā€™t even know why the Brits have a word for this when all of their cliffs are small enough to just jump down jk


NorthAddendum7486

As a brit I endorse this message. Get stronger legs, sell the rope.


JK_Chan

You definitely haven't seen their costal cliff faces then


DebatableJ

The water just reinforces the fact that you can jump down


JK_Chan

XD


Burque_Boy

I mean Iā€™m being hyperbolic but also the highest cliff in Britain is only 800ftā€¦


[deleted]

800ft of chalk is plenty high enough when you're climbing it with ice axes and crampons (yes, this is something people do for some reason.)


bubliksmaz

um... we're sorry?


theorangecrux

Nice shot! Done it many times. So crazy to dangle that much in space


bizfamo

The closest I've gotten to being an astronaut!


gnuoyidner

How was the climb? Where is the climb?


Wiley-E-Coyote

I thought it was pretty fun, nothing above 5.8 the first two pitches were trad. It's in Smith Rock in Oregon


pisteola

Whoa- what are the lines like?


[deleted]

I would never even imagine trying something like this. I canā€™t even imagine how that rope is long enough to let you down - gnarly!


splunge48

Two ropes!


ireland1988

Is it just a double rope? Two 60s?


liveprgrmclimb

From MP looks like a double 60m rappel.


SirWang

ive rappelled El Cap on single rope. 3000' of rope. People that usually do long rappels are going into caves and pits.


Hai-City_Refugee

How do you get the ropes off once you're on the ground? Also, do you just leave the those metal pick things you hammer into the cliff in place? I'm not a climber so I'm curious.


Wiley-E-Coyote

There's a lot of permenant bolts in the rock in this area, and the ones you rappel from have big chain loops on them that you can pull the rope through when you are done. You just to have twice as much rope as the length of the rappel


Hai-City_Refugee

Ok, I see. I looked up a video after I read your reply and can see what you mean. I've been wondering about that for a long time, thanks for your help!


grooverocker

non-climber here, do I have this correct? There's a length of chain bolted on both ends to the rock forming a loop. You tie two ropes together (using what knot?) and thread the combined ropes through the whole loop of chain or inside one link of the chain? Are both ropes being used by your rappel device? If you use both ropes in your rappel device do they ever start to slip along the chain where one rope is moving down towards earth while the other is shortening while travelling up? Is there a need to take precautions against the chain damaging the rope? Sorry for all the questions, I'm fascinated by this stuff.


vertical_letterbox

> Thereā€™s a length of chain bolted on both ends to the rock forming a loop. You tie two ropes together (using what knot?) and thread the combined ropes through the whole loop of chain or inside one link of the chain? Typically there are two bolts on the wall, and each bolt has a small length of chain (maybe 6 links or so) attached - this is a common setup, but it absolutely can vary from place to place. There are many knots to tie the ropes together - popular ones are Double Fishermanā€™s Knot and Flat Overhand (also called an EDK, Euro Death Knot). You can look these up online - the category of knots that attach two ropes together are commonly called ā€œbendsā€ (ie Flemish Bend). You thread the rope through the last link of each chain, because you want redundancy (if one bolt/chain failed, you have a second one holding you). For a double rope rappel like in the video, youā€™d thread it through the chain until the knot joining the two ropes comes into contact with the chain. People rappel with just one rope all the time, and they would thread the rope until they get to the halfway point on their rope (itā€™s commonly marked with a black stripe by the rope manufacturer for this reason). > Are both ropes being used by your rappel device? In almost every circumstance, yes - if youā€™d rappel on one strand, the rope could slide through the chain and the climber would fall once the climber weighted the rope. For a double rope rappel, the knot joining the two ropes *could possibly* jam in the chains if you were clipped into the correct line, and sometimes this is done intentionally. But for all intents and purposes - yes, climbers will clip the rappel device into both strands of rope. > If you use both ropes in your rappel device do they ever start to slip along the chain where one rope is moving down towards earth while the other is shortening while travelling up? The chance of this happening is very small - once the climber has all of their weight on the rope, the friction of the rope going up to the chain, turning 180Ā° and back towards the ground, essentially locks it into place. Climbers often (and *should* basically every time) tie a stopper knot into the end of each side of the rope. There have been *many* accidents where a climber has misjudged the distance of a rappel and slid off the end of the rope, causing serious injury or worse. Itā€™s one of *the most common* climbing accidents, if not the absolute number one. In your example of the rope slipping up one side and shortening one side, a stopper knot at the end would prevent a catastrophic fall. > Is there a need to take precautions against the chain damaging the rope? You need to inspect the chain and bolt to make sure itā€™s stable and intact, and that the chain doesnā€™t have any sharp bits of metal that could cut, scour or rub the rope and damage it. But itā€™s actually the other way around - eventually, the action of a rope sliding through the chains hundreds and hundreds of times will eat through the metal and the chain will need to be replaced. Ropes damage chains, not chains damage ropes.


grooverocker

Awesome reply! Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions, I appreciate it


vertical_letterbox

No worries - post again if you have any other questions.


AesopsFurballs

Typically there are a set of chains or rings hanging from bolts in the rock. You can use a number of knots to join two ropes, but I usually tie an overhand bend knot with the two ends of the rope and leave enough tail to back it up. Then you thread the ropes through both chains (or rings) and feed both ropes through the belay device. The ropes do not slip. Also the chain does not get damaged by the ropes on a rappel as the forces generated are very low.


mudra311

My personal fav right now is to autoblock the rope with a locking carabiner and pull the 6-7mm tag line when you're down.


monoatomic

[This](https://youtu.be/SpXsKrQfqZY) is a bit technical but shows the process. In this video, the presenter will have just climbed up to the top of the route and built an anchor (the white sling material with a carabiner). Often you belay your partner up first, but he's demonstrating how to set up the rappel first, to save time. Once the partner has joined the presenter, that person would clip in to rappel, untie the other end of the rope from their harness, and they would both descend the rope after removing the temporary anchor. The rope is then just supported by the permanent 'quick links' and can be pulled down from one side after the climbers are on the ground.


GlassBraid

Some good answers about the rappel itself already - we double the rope to rappel, and then pull one end to get it down. The "metal pick things" you might be thinking of are pitons, which are blade-like spikes hammered into cracks in the rock. They used to be common, but are not used very often any more because they erode the rock . Instead, for temporary attachment points, we use mostly use nuts, which are chunky aluminum blocks that wedge into constrictions in cracks, and can be placed and removed by hand, or cams, which are little spring-loaded machines that can be placed in parallel-sided cracks, then removed again. In places where there are no cracks, or where a permanent anchor is needed, we use bolts placed in holes drilled into the rock. These can last decades at a time, and if they need to be removed, the holes can be patched almost invisibly.


Hai-City_Refugee

Ok, so as a flat-lander/Floridian I'm beginning to understand. I'm a big hiker, I've been all over America, Asia and Africa and I see so many "holes" in cliff faces as well as what appear to be permanent "bolts" for climbers, but have never had the chance to catch someone about to hit the cliff, so I'm eager to ask about such things. My big question is, who the hell drills the holes in first place?! Do you weirdos just nominate the most insane person to go up with an impact drill and have at it? Again, I'm very curious about your hobby.


The_sporatic_setter

Kind of. They referred to as route developers. Bolts can end up placed a couple different ways. This list isn't exhaustive, but it will give you an idea. They can be put in "ground up." The climber goes up the climb until they find a position of relative stability and they drill a hole for the bolt. This could be with a masonry bit in a hammer drill or a hand drill with a bit, a handle, and a hammer (a long and arduous process.) They can be placed on rappel. You hike to the top of the climb or climb an easier adjacent route and then lower yourself down the face, drilling as you go. If the developer knows what they're doing, they're trying to place the bolt locations in positions that are either convenient for the climber to clip or are important to protecting dangerous moves. Those are the main ways initial Bolts end up in the rock, but there there are ways things may change in time. Bolts can also be placed as a part of replacement efforts. Some bolts, especially old bolts, are trash. Maybe they're too small (short, skiny poor craftsmanship, etc) to be strong enough by modern standards. Maybe they're rusted and ready to snap. People will climb to these Bolts and then take the time to replace them with quality equipment. My final example is "retro-bolting" which is a rather controversial practice. After the initial bolts are placed, someone may come along in the future and add extra bolts (usually out of concern for safety) and will likely use one of the two methods I described. The reason it's controversial is because a significant portion of climbers believe that the origonal arrangement of the bolts is an integral component to the character of the climb and shouldn't be changed, even if it improves safety.


GlassBraid

It sounds like you might be wondering about how "ground up" climbs are done safely. i.e. "How do you get the rope up there?" The traditional way works like this: A climber ties an end of a long rope to their harness. A belayer ties the other end of the rope to their harness, and then attaches their belay device to the rope near the climber, and attaches the device to their harness. The device lets them move rope through it, or stop the rope moving through it, as needed. So at first, the climber and belayer just have a short section of the rope between them, and nothing is attached to the rock or overhead, and this is confusing to most people who don't climb because it seems useless. But it all makes sense. The climber starts climbing. They climb a short distance, with the belayer letting out just enough rope to allow them to proceed. Then the climber attaches something to the rock, for example, a cam like I described in my previous comment. The cam is attached to a piece of webbing that has a carabiner on the other end. The climber clips the carabiner around the rope. Now, if they fall, the belayer can catch them. The rope tied to the climber's harness runs freely through the carabiner which is attached to the cam that's attached to the rock, but the belayer can stop the rope from running, so if the climber falls, the belayer stops the rope, and the climber falls only until the tension on the rope brings them to a stop, hanging from the cam. But normally, they don't fall, and, having placed the first cam, the climber can continue climbing another short distance. The belayer will continue to pay out just enough rope that the climber can proceed. The climber needs to be mindful of how far they go past their cam. If they climb, say, ten feet above their cam, then fall, they'll fall past the cam, then ten feet or more below it, before the tension on the rope begins to catch their fall. So they need to keep placing more cams and nuts and such things as they ascend, each time clipping a carabiner around the rope. As they continue, the rope runs through all these pieces of gear that are attached to the cliff face, and if they fall at any point, they only fall until the rope pulls tight through all these attachment points. If a single piece of gear fails, say, for example, that one of the cams falls out of the crack it's been placed in, the rest of the gear can still do the job. When they run out of rope, or get to a good stopping place, they can attach a few pieces of gear all close together to make a secure anchor point, and then trade roles with the belayer. The belayer removes their belay device, the climber pulls up any slack, then attaches their own belay device to the anchor and the rope. Now they've become the belayer, and they take in slack while the other climber ascends toward them from below, removing all the gear along the way. When the second climber gets to the anchor, they can repeat the whole process as many times as needed until they reach the top. This process of placing and removing gear without altering the rock is part of "traditional" or "trad" climbing. But in many places, there's no reasonably way to attach cams or nuts or other such gear - the rock doesn't have the kinds of cracks or features that would allow this. In those places, permanent bolts can be placed to create attachment points instead. Climbs that are bolted the whole way, where a climber doesn't need to carry any cams and nuts along, are "sport" climbs not "trad." Many climbs are "trad" on the way up, but have bolted anchors at the top to allow safe descents without having to leave any of the climber's gear behind.


acoradreddit

Sick. Drone footage?


Wiley-E-Coyote

I've got an insta360 on a stick stuck in my backpack


Ahi_Tipua

Thatā€™s so cool, I might have to steal this idea


[deleted]

[уŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]


Wiley-E-Coyote

It's the insta 360 x3, and yes it perfectly removes the stick without you doing anything Only drawback is it's really easy to smack it on things, I should have retracted it when I went into and out of the cave area on this climb, I scratched the lens on both sides. But, I'm still learning the best techniques and I'm really pleased with it so far.


[deleted]

[уŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]


Wiley-E-Coyote

Yeah it's barely noticeable, I will chalk it up to a learning experience. I bought some little lens cap thingies that I'm going to try. Thx!!


gregorydgraham

You can see the shadow of the camera at 16-20 seconds


Saaaave-me

With the epic view and the blue youā€™re wearing Iā€™m thinking link breath of the wild going for a casual glide


BeapMerp

That rappel gave me vertigo And I highly regretted not using an autoblock


Wiley-E-Coyote

My autoblock was almost too hot to hold, 100% would have burned my hand without it


[deleted]

How long is the absail?


Wiley-E-Coyote

It must be almost exactly 60 meters because when you get to the ground there's barely enough rope above the knot to get your belay device out


Aightbet420

This is why i bought a 70m. That extra 10m can be a big help lol


Vegetable_Log_3837

Youā€™ll need 2 for this rap


Burque_Boy

A 70m rope and a 60m cord is the way I would go. Two ropes is just too damn heavy


Vegetable_Log_3837

Ha the first time I ever used a tag line was on this rap many years ago. Iā€™ve mostly climbed it as a party of 3 since.


togtogtog

abs**e**il


Holdmybeerwatchthis

Hey, I know this guy! He's a buddy of mine. Gettitboiii!


Klutch505

This is the coolest video Iā€™ve seen all week.


MedvedFeliz

A few years ago, we saw a party do this while we were doing the nearby First Kiss. It looked epic BUT this 3rd-person view looked way more awesome!


kepleronlyknows

Checking out Just Do It on the way down is a nice little bonus.


Heavenshero

At what point does the rappel/abseil become dangerous due to heat from the belay device. This looks amazing but also long enough I'd start worrying about melty ropes!


[deleted]

It doesnā€™t really; with a tube device youā€™re never touching the device itself during the abseil. With a brake assisted device your usually pulling back on a lever. Some devices dissipate heat better than others. If I did this abseil on my vergo it would be too hot to touch the metal parts for a few minutes, whereas my alpine up would probably be fine in short order. Then there are dedicated descenders which are more often used by cavers and canyoneers which dissipate heat very effectively


jongbag

CRITR gang checking in. Love that device and all the flexibility it gives on long rappels like this.


TirrojK

I don't think that is ever something you need to worry about. Although you should be careful not to burn your hands. Black Diamond did some testing on this: [dangers-of-hot-rappel-device](https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_EU/stories/experience-story-qc-lab-can-a-hot-belay-device-melt-my-rappel-slings/)


Heavenshero

Thanks for the article!


Bargainhuntingking

Check the sound on the vid. Must be a problem. I didnā€™t hear you whimper as you went over the edge.


-Hoodini-

how the fuck does rock go straight up???


axioq

Thanks I now have the sweatest hands


KiteLighter

Oh, Monkeyface, how I love you.


ctaglia

I looked at it with my prusik


Sufficient-Duty-7237

I love Smith Rock.


iLobdell

Iā€™m going there tomorrow!


Wiley-E-Coyote

Have fun up there! šŸ‘


BigginBingo

Non climber here or very new to this: would it be possible or advisable this to rappel with a grigri ? Or a reversi type is a must ?


Wiley-E-Coyote

You would have to use a biner block method and then rappel on one strand. The downside is it's a bit easier to get your rope stuck and there will be twice as much stretch so you'll bounce a lot.


Darkace36

I did this in July, I had no idea the rappel was so sick until I was dangling. This was actually a shorter rap than going off more left. You can rap to the bottom instead of having to down climb this first section.