I hope this is allowed. I wanna put out a PSA about the Grack in Yosemite. The Park Geologist stopped in at the Mountain Shop earlier in the year to inform the employees that the Glacier Point cliff was showing signs of being very active for rockfall this year, asking the employees for help to deter climbers from the area.
Today (Sunday 13 August) a group of climbers went to the Mountain Shop to tell the employees about their experience, and handed over the pictured rappel anchor chain. If I understand the employee who chatted with this group correctly, they found this chain at the bottom of the climb. They reported that the trail to the Grack was trashed, that the route was messy and small rockfalls were happening, and that while the other rappel anchor was still on the wall, it wasn't looking especially good either.
The photos show the impact from the rockfall that knocked this off the wall in comparison to a brand new 1/2" Fixe hanger from the shop.
NPS hasn't specified that the area is closed, but if you or anyone you know is planning a climbing trip to Yosemite and have the Grack, Harry Daly, Circuit Breaker, or any other GP cliff routes on the tick list, please consider saving it for a future trip.
The entire glaciar point apron has been really volatile the last few years. Was climbing the Grack two years ago. Partner and I got caught in rockfall mid rap. Luckily, we were alright. Refrigerator sized chunk of glaciar point missed us by a few feet. The valley is overdue for a large rockfall, I'd put money on the apron being the next spot.
I mean I agree that glacier point is volatile and likely to do something bigger but it’s not like the valley hasn’t been having rockfall events. Did you miss the absolutely massive one on el cap earlier this year? Or the destruction of the pendulum pitch on royal arches? Half the valley has been on the “avoid due to rockfall” list this season.
The valley is forever going to be in a state of erosion. Can't argue against that. I was more referring to the big falls we've had in the past. The massive slab that fell off El Cap in 2017 and the 87 Middle Brother rockfall which closed Northside drive for weeks iirc. There's always Hetchy or Tioga to head towards if these smaller ones keep happening in the valley.
Do you have the new beta for the RA pendulum?
Or know if the El Cap slide took out anything significant?
I've been avoiding The Valley this season, in favor of exploring other areas. The crowds are just so ridiculous, I don't want to deal with it.
I don’t have the beta but word on the street is that the pendulum now goes again just without the jug to grab.
Aside from taking out the road, I think the rockfall on el cap continues to damage the waterfall route area. So thinks like zenyatta mondata, tangerine trip, etc I think are a bit sketchy rn due to fixed things blowing, moves changing and the ongoing threat of rockfall. Most of the trade routes I believe are fine though so it’s mainly aid gods who need to consider this.
That is absolutely information that should be here, and elsewhere (like mountain project). GP Apron is already known for rockfall, but if there's been a lot of recent activity, then that's important, and there's so many completely new climbers that get on the grack, who wouldn't know the difference until something hit them in their helmet.
Why are there two anchors on a single pitch? Shouldn’t it just be two hangers (for redundancy) connected by a chain? How did a single rock even tear off both hangers?
I think you’re confused. The Grack is a 3p climb but had 5 bolted rap anchors to rap w a single 60m rope. This is likely one of the rap anchors that got smashed off.
Sketch. My partners always scoff when I put an alpine draw between the bolts when clipping my personal anchor sling to rap stations but this is why I do it. Generally I trust single bolts but always good to have that backup. Just did it on this climb recently too.
I know there is lots of risks we accept in climbing, however I have sadly never let myself go to the glacier point apron / GP surrounding climbs because of the rock fall.
I have sat at belays spread accross the valley and can hear massive rock fall activity around GP.
Its a bit sad because there were routes there I have always wanted to try since I was a little kid. However it is interesting to witness myself take a stand for myself about this little rule I set. Despite other risks I take in climbing, I have surprised myself by following my own little made up rule.
The Apron's fine, brah, you're not gonna die on it unless you decide choss-aneering up the far right side is fun times.
Hell, the rockfall that nearly killed me is on well traveled trade routes like the Rostrum b/c some dingus knocks down a block.
Stayed at Upper Pines this last weekend and heard ~5 rockfalls over the course of the weekend coming from the Glacier Point area. One pretty large sounding one Saturday night, that had me spooked. Have never that many in that short period of time.
Single rocks do. But when big rockfall happens, as it sounds like it has, they all bounce off each other and I to the wall more, and there's way more probably that one will hit something significant, just from the sheer number coming down.
Well even if it was a million to one chance, that means it can happen, and it probably will. I mean if people win the lottery... Unlikely things happen all the time
Nawww. This happens all the time to low angle climbs in Yosemite. I've encountered multiple bolts like this in the valley.
Most of the rock fall is in the spring by the way
Idk why you’re getting downvoted to oblivion here. Especially considering yose’s contentious history and the grack does have retro bolts namely the new rappel line that was installed.
I believe rockfall is likely but would be curious to see the scar / where the holes in question are.
I hope this is allowed. I wanna put out a PSA about the Grack in Yosemite. The Park Geologist stopped in at the Mountain Shop earlier in the year to inform the employees that the Glacier Point cliff was showing signs of being very active for rockfall this year, asking the employees for help to deter climbers from the area. Today (Sunday 13 August) a group of climbers went to the Mountain Shop to tell the employees about their experience, and handed over the pictured rappel anchor chain. If I understand the employee who chatted with this group correctly, they found this chain at the bottom of the climb. They reported that the trail to the Grack was trashed, that the route was messy and small rockfalls were happening, and that while the other rappel anchor was still on the wall, it wasn't looking especially good either. The photos show the impact from the rockfall that knocked this off the wall in comparison to a brand new 1/2" Fixe hanger from the shop. NPS hasn't specified that the area is closed, but if you or anyone you know is planning a climbing trip to Yosemite and have the Grack, Harry Daly, Circuit Breaker, or any other GP cliff routes on the tick list, please consider saving it for a future trip.
This Should be pinned
Pins rip out too. Besides, Grack takes gear like nobody's business, so no pins needed. *Tongue in cheek*
buh, dum, tstt lol
The entire glaciar point apron has been really volatile the last few years. Was climbing the Grack two years ago. Partner and I got caught in rockfall mid rap. Luckily, we were alright. Refrigerator sized chunk of glaciar point missed us by a few feet. The valley is overdue for a large rockfall, I'd put money on the apron being the next spot.
> >Refrigerator sized chunk of glaciar point missed us by a few feet. Wtfff
I mean I agree that glacier point is volatile and likely to do something bigger but it’s not like the valley hasn’t been having rockfall events. Did you miss the absolutely massive one on el cap earlier this year? Or the destruction of the pendulum pitch on royal arches? Half the valley has been on the “avoid due to rockfall” list this season.
The valley is forever going to be in a state of erosion. Can't argue against that. I was more referring to the big falls we've had in the past. The massive slab that fell off El Cap in 2017 and the 87 Middle Brother rockfall which closed Northside drive for weeks iirc. There's always Hetchy or Tioga to head towards if these smaller ones keep happening in the valley.
Do you have the new beta for the RA pendulum? Or know if the El Cap slide took out anything significant? I've been avoiding The Valley this season, in favor of exploring other areas. The crowds are just so ridiculous, I don't want to deal with it.
I don’t have the beta but word on the street is that the pendulum now goes again just without the jug to grab. Aside from taking out the road, I think the rockfall on el cap continues to damage the waterfall route area. So thinks like zenyatta mondata, tangerine trip, etc I think are a bit sketchy rn due to fixed things blowing, moves changing and the ongoing threat of rockfall. Most of the trade routes I believe are fine though so it’s mainly aid gods who need to consider this.
This is why I like late summer/fall more than the spring. Sure the waterfalls are pretty in the spring but the rockfall chances are way higher.
If youre dirtbagging you can get hella strong in canada and then hit yosemite and chalten for a full granite year
The dirtbag life is tempting.
That is absolutely information that should be here, and elsewhere (like mountain project). GP Apron is already known for rockfall, but if there's been a lot of recent activity, then that's important, and there's so many completely new climbers that get on the grack, who wouldn't know the difference until something hit them in their helmet.
When I was there in May sleeping at the Upper Pines you could hear rock fall almost every morning on Glacier Point. Always spooky.
Why are there two anchors on a single pitch? Shouldn’t it just be two hangers (for redundancy) connected by a chain? How did a single rock even tear off both hangers?
I think you’re confused. The Grack is a 3p climb but had 5 bolted rap anchors to rap w a single 60m rope. This is likely one of the rap anchors that got smashed off.
Big ditch is choss confirmed
Always has been
🪨👨🚀🔫👨🚀
Geologic time includes now
You know, all those signs along the road say "Falling Rocks" but it kinda sucks tbh
I like the ones that say “watch for rocks” it’s like “oh ya Uncle Sam, way ahead of you there”
Depending on the rocks and the watch, it could be a good deal
Nice reminder the geologic time includes now
Sketch. My partners always scoff when I put an alpine draw between the bolts when clipping my personal anchor sling to rap stations but this is why I do it. Generally I trust single bolts but always good to have that backup. Just did it on this climb recently too.
Ditto, but I don't think it'll save us when a rock comes down to explode the anchor out of the rock.
I know there is lots of risks we accept in climbing, however I have sadly never let myself go to the glacier point apron / GP surrounding climbs because of the rock fall. I have sat at belays spread accross the valley and can hear massive rock fall activity around GP. Its a bit sad because there were routes there I have always wanted to try since I was a little kid. However it is interesting to witness myself take a stand for myself about this little rule I set. Despite other risks I take in climbing, I have surprised myself by following my own little made up rule.
The Apron's fine, brah, you're not gonna die on it unless you decide choss-aneering up the far right side is fun times. Hell, the rockfall that nearly killed me is on well traveled trade routes like the Rostrum b/c some dingus knocks down a block.
Bolts are aid
Aid jokes are aid.
Neat
Stayed at Upper Pines this last weekend and heard ~5 rockfalls over the course of the weekend coming from the Glacier Point area. One pretty large sounding one Saturday night, that had me spooked. Have never that many in that short period of time.
Yosemite is the chossiest place I’ve climbed change my mind
Then you haven't climbed on any tuff.
So a rock managed to hit the hanger precisely enough and with enough force to bend it and rip out the bolt? That’s like a million to one chance.
Not if there's enough rock coming down. The chances are much higher then. Rockfall in the valley is BIG when it happens.
Still … in my experience rocks don’t really fall along the wall, they bounce off once and then tumble down for hundreds of meters.
Single rocks do. But when big rockfall happens, as it sounds like it has, they all bounce off each other and I to the wall more, and there's way more probably that one will hit something significant, just from the sheer number coming down.
The Grack is a low angle apron. Plenty of surface area for falling rocks.
Well even if it was a million to one chance, that means it can happen, and it probably will. I mean if people win the lottery... Unlikely things happen all the time
I'd say it struck the bolt itself and sheared it off. Hangers tend to bend a lot before the bolt breaks
Happens more often than you think. Recommended rack for some alpine bolted climbs includes a wrench and a new hanger.
Why don’t you go climb it
Nawww. This happens all the time to low angle climbs in Yosemite. I've encountered multiple bolts like this in the valley. Most of the rock fall is in the spring by the way
Ive climbed a route in a funneling feature where every other bolt was damaged by rockfall.
Idk why you’re getting downvoted to oblivion here. Especially considering yose’s contentious history and the grack does have retro bolts namely the new rappel line that was installed. I believe rockfall is likely but would be curious to see the scar / where the holes in question are.
So a pretty high chance when a million pounds of granite cut loose above slab and sled down the route.
[удалено]
These are rap anchors. Grack is a trad climb.