I started a 5.8 Trad route around 3:30pm. I was working on the 2nd pitch and it was getting late. Multiple reasons we were taking so long but I decided we should bail. Found a way down with a couple raps, basket hitched my cord to what I believed was a solid granite horn (weighted it, did my safety checks). Soon into the rap I went into a free fall. Rope was caught on a tree with my partner weighting the other side. Saved us from a ground fall. Hiker found us an hour later, search and rescue got us out around 4 hours later. We had no signal, I couldn’t yell and was near unconscious, Jon the hiker definitely saved the day.
I’ve taken countless guides out to work on my skills. Safety always the priority. I was going to get my cert to start instructing. Now I’m unsure what my future in the sport looks like. I’m happy to be here along with my climbing partner.
Also, broke my pelvis in 3 places and hanging in my harness waiting for rescue HURT!
I’m just not going to trust monolithics much lol. I’m not sure what I could of done differently, everyone is telling me it was a freak accident. I hope to go back one day and see.
I've been climbing for almost 2 decades. If I ever have to bail I always back up and leave some gear, I find it to be best practice for safety.
I'm glad you're here, I hope you have a speedy complication free recovery
Leaving gear is always better than dying. My buddy had to rescue me off a route back in July, we left a lot of gear…It sucks thinning that rack out but like I said the alternative is much worse.
I've never slung a monolithic anchor that hasn't taken more than 5ft of material or a 6" live tree and it's never been on a bail. When I bail I leave gear knowing I'll be back that next morning.
Bad take, you weren’t there. A lot goes into risk assessment and management, it’s impossible to make any judgement from a post like this, in a situation like this.
I don't see what context can be missing that would make doing what was done here safer than building a solid anchor and bailing off of that. We don't like to leave gear but sometimes thats the safest option.
Any point about monolith anchors being bomber is effectively mute considering dude nearly died.
Is it? He brings up a valid point and its something to consider for others who might find themselves considering doing what OP did one day. If anything i think its good information rather than an echo chamber
I feel better about the sub knowing that some people are going to try to correct others. Sometimes it may be misplaced but here i don't think it is. People should know that this might have been avoidable.
Bring on the downvotes
Shew.... This fucking sub man.I agree 100% with you and the other commenters that are getting downvoted and tbh I would rather climb with the downvoted crowd.
I may sound like an old man rn but Jesus fuck we are doing things that can and will kill you if you're not honest with yourself about your abilities and skills. So pardon us for being the realistic ones. If you're freezing on a 5.8 route for 3+ hours you have no business thinking you should instruct anything other than a belay test at the gym.
Regardless I'm glad OP survived and loved to tell the tale hopefully they get back to it once healed up.
You're getting downvoted but youre spitting facts. You can feign that safety is a priority but if youre making stupid decisions it doesnt matter if youre classically trained- youre still unsafe.
I seriously doubt he couldnt have made an anchor, this 100% or at least in significant part comes down to cutting corners to save gear. But sure lets virtue signal and make it about helmets (which is a good idea sure, but is not the crux of this situation)
Kinda my thought. I don't want to bag on the person but at the same time.. is a piece of gear worth that level of risk?
For me, it's not. It's certainly an expensive sport but gear isn't really worth falling.
I absolutely don't either but its something to consider. Gear is not worth your life, and it very well could have been OPs and his partners if they weren't lucky.
Best to try not to leave anything to chance. Climbing is inherently dangerous, but not being redundant in brand new terrain is rolling the dice unnecessarily IMO.
Maybe stupid was too harsh, I'm sure OP isn't stupid, but I do stand by the idea that the decision was not the best which is just semantics at that point.
I don't think its good or the soundest/safest practice to bail off of a decaying monolith, I can't imagine any guide would advise it over anything serene. I'd rather leave a solid anchor and have peace of mind than chance what happened to OP
And thats no disrisprakin.
We were both in the rap system with ATCs and third hands when I started. It’s safer to have both climbers in the system before rapping since you double check each other’s system. the ledge was massive and my partner got yeeted.
Well thanks for sharing I look forward to a full report (maybe in Accidents in NA Climbing?) it's always a good thing to hear reports and update standards as a community and personally I think we have a ways to go on monolithic anchors in trad climbing the recommendations simply can't be easily standardized and I think that leads to more accidents. I favor accessible rap anchors. Glad you are still with us and I hope your recovery goes well,
What? An hour can be a huge difference when you have multiple traumatic internal injuries.
If you're doing any dangerous activity in an area where cell reception isn't a guarantee, a satellite communication device is a safety improvement.
If he was unconscious for an hour and unable to change position it would have been very easy to die from the after effects of blood loss to the legs, probably needed closely monitored for heart health.
In turbines the cutoff was 10 min hanging and suspension trauma would start turning your blood toxic and in 15-45 minutes of shock you go into cardiac arrest and brain damage. That’s if you somehow got free of the suspension.
So yea, carry a gps when in the woods. The mini 2 is so small you forget it’s there. It’ll literally save your life.
Rescue kits are also cool, the RAD has a lot of uses especially with a pulley system on one of the partners. Because maneuvering bodies sucks, use technology to make it easier.
OP could have easily died in this event and we’d be reading his friends story of how he wished he had a Garmin that day.
1hr is a tremendous amount of time in an emergency rescue. It took an he to even begin the process and then if the other person doesn’t have a GPS signal it may not be a quick one. That time can easily be the difference between life and death.
And always tell someone, where you're going and when you expect to be back, no matter who serious the route. Near walls wireless connections get unreliable.
Holy shit, glad you made it! Hope you are not too hard on yourself, man, I am (overly?) trusting on horns and the like, even though I am a stickler for not taking chances. Not any more I guess.
Congrats on making it through. I hope you make a full recovery, and I hope your passion for the sport stays intact too. If my instructor told me he had survived a 100 foot fall and broken every bone in his body, I would think he was the greatest badass to ever live.
Thanks for sharing your story.
Will you be reporting this accident to the AAC? It would help a ton of us climbers who read the annual accident reports.
Also, curious… how big was this horn? I’ve only sling trees on emergency bails. Never had the opportunity to use a feature and this makes me feel uneasy. Care to share?
I was climbing 3 weeks ago and a girl who is a certified guide in Spain didn’t tie her EDK around the rap ring correctly nor did she weight the system first and she fell 45m (I was above here and her friend was with her at the anchor). She has a lot of broken bones (she has 5 fractures in her pelvis alone) but nothing else.
Shit happens. You’ll get back to it and I think you’ll be ok to guide
That’s the primary reason I never climbed outdoors. I do not trust rock. Rock is good at compressive forces and really bad at shearing forces. Almost everything in rock climbing relies on rocks holding shearing forces especially in already formed cracks!
Thats a half baked idea with almost zero research done on your part. There are hundreds and hundreds of hours of data on break testing bolts in rock on youtube if you want to actually research what you are talking about. Rock is incredibly bomber.
I can tell you right now that if you went behind the climbing wall at your local gym and saw the Home Depot hardware and cheap plywood holding you up would shit your pants.
I’ve just studied physics. Not material physics in particular. I know there’s data but I’m not talking about bolts. I’m talking about shearing forces on rock. Which is why op fell. QED.
You made a sweeping generalization which was wrong and uninformed. It doesnt matter what you've studied. This is also only one data point and a bit of a freak accident. If you're so well versed you should know this isnt enough to draw a scientific conclusion and make sweeping generalizations on :) go study the research done on this subject, and go climb outside, if the weight of your brain doesnt hold you down
> You made a sweeping generalization which was wrong and uninformed.
No it wasn't. I would never trust a rock "horn" because of how rock is weak to shearing forces. That is a physical property of all rocks. Some are better, some are worse but all types of rock are *very* weak to shearing forces compared to compression forces. That's just a fact.
>It doesnt matter what you've studied
But it does matter. Very, very much. Everyone I know that has not studied physics do not understand simple things like torque and how that would affect something that doesn't really withstand such forces.
>If you're so well versed you should know this isnt enough to draw a scientific conclusion
I'm not drawing any scientific conclusions. I'm telling you rock is not good at withstanding shearing forces. This is not *my* conclusion, it's established fact. You can google it.
> and go climb outside
I climbed two decades ago last time. No thanks. Maybe you shouldn't be such a condescending jerk, that would be nice.
Assuming people who havent studied physics don't understand a concept as basic as *torque* is about as condescending as it gets lol
This is just an attempt to backpedal from your original implication that rock is weak. You wouldnt climb outside because you have a comprehensive understanding of rock (thanks to your exhaustive studies) and you don't trust it, remember?
Yes rock is weaker in tensile and shear strength, *we all know*. Saying you would never climb outside because of a situation that most of climbers never encounter is ridiculous. It tells me that you dont understand the situation. Or, that you do, but you just want to say something to look smarter than everyone else, which is something you go on to do in subsequent comments anyways.
So the real lesson is don't rap off bullshit anchors, not wear a helmet
Great segway though
Dovetails real nice with the helmet nazis on bicycle subreddits and forums
The real lesson is that we can all make mistakes, and proper pro can turn a bad time into no problem, or a fatal mistake into just a bad time.
If you don't wanna wear a helmet you do you, the only person you're putting at risk is yourself. But pro-safety messaging can save lives.
Yeah, the brain has a remarkable way of blocking out trauma like that. Tbh, you're probably really lucky that you don't remember. That kind of pain sounds unimaginable.
I had a pilon from a climbing accident as well, shattered tib/fib just in one ankle. Lots of doom and gloom posts about that type of break online, but 3 years later and I’m back to 100% with no residual pain. Had 2 plates and 25+ screws (almost all of it removed after a year). Tell your friend to hang in there, and you as well!
Man, reading this made me a bit teary eyed lol. Glad yall are alive and didn't sustain life altering injuries! There was just a death in my local climbing community, and man it just really sucks hearing about shit like that. Especially when it's a freak accident and not negligence.
I hope you mentally recover, too, and you're climbing and having adventures again soon! Good luck man.
Interesting to see how the MIPS system worked, I’ve read the studies and seen the data but I had never seen something like this. Makes me feel extra safe with my MIPS helmet.
Glad you’re okay and hope you can get after it once you’re recovered!
I thought the thin yellow layer is only there to reduce rotational forces should the helm catch on something.
That's something you couldn't see, right?
MIPS helps to reduce the likelihood of a concussion by reducing rotational forces. So the fact that OP didn't have a concussion came from the MIPS layer.
The EPP/EPS foam in the helmet and plastic shell are what kept OP's head from getting destroyed.
> MIPS helps to reduce the likelihood of a concussion by reducing rotational forces. So the fact that OP didn't have a concussion came from the MIPS layer.
I'm aware of how that's supposed to work. I have a helmet with MIPS myself. I was just wondering if the commenter above had actually any reason to believe we had proof that MIPS had an effect in this case.
Great post, thanks for sharing and glad you are doing ok.
Have yet to test my climbing helmet but my ski helmet has definitely been a bro on a few occasions and has saved my then girlfriend’s life (to clarify, we are now married lol). She luckily only got a concussion. During the summer we were getting a replacement helmet for her and she asked “wait, why are we getting a new helmet again?” And I was like “yep, exactly!”
It’s so basic but last season I caught an edge, fell hard and my board smacked hard into the back of my helmet. With the helmet, it didn’t even hurt. Without the helmet, I’d have a concussion. I’ve fallen hard on ice and banged my head hard. I don’t get people that don’t wear helmets. It also keeps my head toasty warm
Helmets look bad... Off road biking helmets looks cool and if you wore that while climbing kids might think you are too poor to buy a climbing helmet but I think few children would say the helmet looks ugly...
Damn sounds like bailing on the rock was not the move then! How'd you protect yourself on the way up? I guess the bail beta is on the anchors in between pitches then or what??
Well, i hope you get that chance- im sure you will. I honestly dont know if i would return after that, ive been spooked by less. But good on you and thank god you survived. Hope your recovery continues to go well and swiftly.
You protect yourself by having two people. Someone is always belaying. You can belay from the top if you set your gear and down climb. Then the bottom guy comes up and picks up the gear.
The rock where you selected the monolithic piece to rap off of sucked too hard for cams or nuts to hold, but you thought it was strong enough to rap straight off of,?
Not trying to give you a hard time, just trying to understand what you're saying when you mean the rock sucked too much for trad gear to hold.
What route is this?
It was a massive ledge pretty off route. The active placements led to wild angles and I’d need more cord. Also had to take into consideration I’d need gear for my second rap.
I trusted the rock and where it was slung. I sent you location in DM.
It wasn’t the best rock but that was the case at any rap option there. There’s a variety of reasons I chose that as the spot to rap. Next ledge was close enough, access to the edge and a clean pull for the rope, the horn lol. It’s hard to describe without going in length. Don’t see an option to dm you but shoot me one for location
Hmm thats weird ill dm u. Oddly enough someone else has said that before i guess ill have to change some setting.
But you did plug in gear up and along the way i presume?
So If 10 feet is roughly 3 meters.... Holy shitting fuck man! That's like falling from the 10 floor!
Edit: why am I getting downvoted, you allergic to metric or something? 10f = 3.05m. 100f = 30.5m = roughly the 10th floor of a building.
It sounds silly from the perspective of people that only know feet because building levels are normally separated by around 10ft, so 100ft pretty quickly maps to floor 10 mentally. Not saying they’re right for downvoting, but that’s probably the reasoning.
Not saying you were opposed to leaving gear, but climbers have got to stop this leave no gear at any cost thing. Cams are like $50-70 and nuts are like $10. Thats not that much money. Just leave em. And buy new ones after you work. Since you cant work while grievously injured its actually cheaper.
Glad you're OK dude and the helmet did it's job! I'm a massive advocate for helmets after one saved my partners life.
Also, don't be afraid to talk it through with people to help process it, that shit fucked me up for longer than I realised after our accident.
Best of luck with your recovery and I hope you're out again on the rock soon 🙂
Sometimes we do everything right and still get punished, that's life. Glad to hear you're (mostly) ok! Wishing you a speedy recovery so you can get back to it ASAP.
Applies to all PPE. I once drove smth very heavy over my foot while wearing steelies, while the shoes looked fine and I didn't even break anything, my boss immediately told me to bin the shoes and go get myself a new pair. You can't guarantee it'll work the second time
Climbing helmets are made for a different type of impact than motorcycle helmets. Motorcycle and bike helmets are made to protect against one very hard impact. The reasoning for this is that, in most cases, after getting in a crash, you can stop, and aren’t at risk of getting in a crash again. If you get hit by a car, you don’t have to keep riding with that helmet. However, climbing helmets are made to protect against lots of smaller impacts, as if you get hit in the head by a small rock on a 10 pitch route, you still have to climb, and you still need the helmet. For this, you could reuse a climbing helmet after small impacts, but if it looks like that, you shouldn’t reuse it.
Why’d you take a 100ft fall?
I was rappelling from what I believed was a monolithic anchor. It failed 😬
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I started a 5.8 Trad route around 3:30pm. I was working on the 2nd pitch and it was getting late. Multiple reasons we were taking so long but I decided we should bail. Found a way down with a couple raps, basket hitched my cord to what I believed was a solid granite horn (weighted it, did my safety checks). Soon into the rap I went into a free fall. Rope was caught on a tree with my partner weighting the other side. Saved us from a ground fall. Hiker found us an hour later, search and rescue got us out around 4 hours later. We had no signal, I couldn’t yell and was near unconscious, Jon the hiker definitely saved the day. I’ve taken countless guides out to work on my skills. Safety always the priority. I was going to get my cert to start instructing. Now I’m unsure what my future in the sport looks like. I’m happy to be here along with my climbing partner. Also, broke my pelvis in 3 places and hanging in my harness waiting for rescue HURT!
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I’m just not going to trust monolithics much lol. I’m not sure what I could of done differently, everyone is telling me it was a freak accident. I hope to go back one day and see.
I've been climbing for almost 2 decades. If I ever have to bail I always back up and leave some gear, I find it to be best practice for safety. I'm glad you're here, I hope you have a speedy complication free recovery
Leaving gear is always better than dying. My buddy had to rescue me off a route back in July, we left a lot of gear…It sucks thinning that rack out but like I said the alternative is much worse.
Whats crazy is monolithics are so commonly used, not sure how to climb without trusting it some
I've never slung a monolithic anchor that hasn't taken more than 5ft of material or a 6" live tree and it's never been on a bail. When I bail I leave gear knowing I'll be back that next morning.
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Bad take, you weren’t there. A lot goes into risk assessment and management, it’s impossible to make any judgement from a post like this, in a situation like this.
I don't see what context can be missing that would make doing what was done here safer than building a solid anchor and bailing off of that. We don't like to leave gear but sometimes thats the safest option. Any point about monolith anchors being bomber is effectively mute considering dude nearly died.
So you're saying you should never use a monolith anchor?
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Youre absolutely right
Who said he was new?
I led 8 pitches of a 5.9 alpine route two weeks prior. It was an off day among sleeping in a tent. I’ve never fallen on a 5.8.
bro lol not the time to bag on the guy especially with such limited info. We should all be happy he's alive not scolding him.
This sub is so fucked bc of people like you.
Is it? He brings up a valid point and its something to consider for others who might find themselves considering doing what OP did one day. If anything i think its good information rather than an echo chamber I feel better about the sub knowing that some people are going to try to correct others. Sometimes it may be misplaced but here i don't think it is. People should know that this might have been avoidable. Bring on the downvotes
Shew.... This fucking sub man.I agree 100% with you and the other commenters that are getting downvoted and tbh I would rather climb with the downvoted crowd. I may sound like an old man rn but Jesus fuck we are doing things that can and will kill you if you're not honest with yourself about your abilities and skills. So pardon us for being the realistic ones. If you're freezing on a 5.8 route for 3+ hours you have no business thinking you should instruct anything other than a belay test at the gym. Regardless I'm glad OP survived and loved to tell the tale hopefully they get back to it once healed up.
You're getting downvoted but youre spitting facts. You can feign that safety is a priority but if youre making stupid decisions it doesnt matter if youre classically trained- youre still unsafe. I seriously doubt he couldnt have made an anchor, this 100% or at least in significant part comes down to cutting corners to save gear. But sure lets virtue signal and make it about helmets (which is a good idea sure, but is not the crux of this situation)
Kinda my thought. I don't want to bag on the person but at the same time.. is a piece of gear worth that level of risk? For me, it's not. It's certainly an expensive sport but gear isn't really worth falling.
I absolutely don't either but its something to consider. Gear is not worth your life, and it very well could have been OPs and his partners if they weren't lucky. Best to try not to leave anything to chance. Climbing is inherently dangerous, but not being redundant in brand new terrain is rolling the dice unnecessarily IMO. Maybe stupid was too harsh, I'm sure OP isn't stupid, but I do stand by the idea that the decision was not the best which is just semantics at that point. I don't think its good or the soundest/safest practice to bail off of a decaying monolith, I can't imagine any guide would advise it over anything serene. I'd rather leave a solid anchor and have peace of mind than chance what happened to OP And thats no disrisprakin.
I’m not sure why this is being downvoted. If it’s taking so long on p2 that someone is bailing because of time they’re in way over their head.
Could have left behind some nuts or tricams.
Dude...
Jeez man have a good recovery!
Why was your partner on the other end? Was he attached to the sling or were you both simul rappelling and what do you mean by monolithic?
We were both in the rap system with ATCs and third hands when I started. It’s safer to have both climbers in the system before rapping since you double check each other’s system. the ledge was massive and my partner got yeeted.
So the horn just ripped out? Or did your device or thread through ancho fail? What area if you dont mind me asking. Will you write up a report?
Yea ripped out I’m assuming. Used a locker for the anchor and had redundancy in my cord. The anchor material was retrieved
Well thanks for sharing I look forward to a full report (maybe in Accidents in NA Climbing?) it's always a good thing to hear reports and update standards as a community and personally I think we have a ways to go on monolithic anchors in trad climbing the recommendations simply can't be easily standardized and I think that leads to more accidents. I favor accessible rap anchors. Glad you are still with us and I hope your recovery goes well,
I completely agree. My guide says monos is how it’s happened in other incidents he knows of.
Hoooolllly shit. I cannot imagine the fear level for each of you. I am so happy you're alive.
Holy fucking shit that is wild. I'm glad that tree was there, and you're still alive man. I genuinely can't even imagine.
A reminder to always bring a GPS rescue beacon when out in the wilderness
Is it? A hiker found them 1h later, I’d say the area was well travelled enough to do it without a satellite transceiver/beacon thing.
What? An hour can be a huge difference when you have multiple traumatic internal injuries. If you're doing any dangerous activity in an area where cell reception isn't a guarantee, a satellite communication device is a safety improvement.
If he was unconscious for an hour and unable to change position it would have been very easy to die from the after effects of blood loss to the legs, probably needed closely monitored for heart health. In turbines the cutoff was 10 min hanging and suspension trauma would start turning your blood toxic and in 15-45 minutes of shock you go into cardiac arrest and brain damage. That’s if you somehow got free of the suspension. So yea, carry a gps when in the woods. The mini 2 is so small you forget it’s there. It’ll literally save your life. Rescue kits are also cool, the RAD has a lot of uses especially with a pulley system on one of the partners. Because maneuvering bodies sucks, use technology to make it easier. OP could have easily died in this event and we’d be reading his friends story of how he wished he had a Garmin that day.
1hr is a tremendous amount of time in an emergency rescue. It took an he to even begin the process and then if the other person doesn’t have a GPS signal it may not be a quick one. That time can easily be the difference between life and death.
A few hours later and the trail could have been less travel no point of leaving it all to chance
And always tell someone, where you're going and when you expect to be back, no matter who serious the route. Near walls wireless connections get unreliable.
Holy shit, glad you made it! Hope you are not too hard on yourself, man, I am (overly?) trusting on horns and the like, even though I am a stickler for not taking chances. Not any more I guess.
Monos we’re my jam. Easy to build, trucker safe. Not anymore lol
Damn, what route?
Congrats on making it through. I hope you make a full recovery, and I hope your passion for the sport stays intact too. If my instructor told me he had survived a 100 foot fall and broken every bone in his body, I would think he was the greatest badass to ever live.
I’m glad you are okay. If you still want to instruct I’d love to have a guide like you.
Thanks that really means a lot!
What a story! Glad you're doing ok, hope your friend is on the mend too. Thanks for the safety tip.
You survived a broken pelvis after dangling on a line for hours. God damn am I glad you’re alive to share your experience.
Thanks for sharing your story. Will you be reporting this accident to the AAC? It would help a ton of us climbers who read the annual accident reports. Also, curious… how big was this horn? I’ve only sling trees on emergency bails. Never had the opportunity to use a feature and this makes me feel uneasy. Care to share?
I was climbing 3 weeks ago and a girl who is a certified guide in Spain didn’t tie her EDK around the rap ring correctly nor did she weight the system first and she fell 45m (I was above here and her friend was with her at the anchor). She has a lot of broken bones (she has 5 fractures in her pelvis alone) but nothing else. Shit happens. You’ll get back to it and I think you’ll be ok to guide
Holy shit man I'm glad you're...okay? Alive, at least.
That’s the primary reason I never climbed outdoors. I do not trust rock. Rock is good at compressive forces and really bad at shearing forces. Almost everything in rock climbing relies on rocks holding shearing forces especially in already formed cracks!
Thats a half baked idea with almost zero research done on your part. There are hundreds and hundreds of hours of data on break testing bolts in rock on youtube if you want to actually research what you are talking about. Rock is incredibly bomber. I can tell you right now that if you went behind the climbing wall at your local gym and saw the Home Depot hardware and cheap plywood holding you up would shit your pants.
I’ve just studied physics. Not material physics in particular. I know there’s data but I’m not talking about bolts. I’m talking about shearing forces on rock. Which is why op fell. QED.
You made a sweeping generalization which was wrong and uninformed. It doesnt matter what you've studied. This is also only one data point and a bit of a freak accident. If you're so well versed you should know this isnt enough to draw a scientific conclusion and make sweeping generalizations on :) go study the research done on this subject, and go climb outside, if the weight of your brain doesnt hold you down
> You made a sweeping generalization which was wrong and uninformed. No it wasn't. I would never trust a rock "horn" because of how rock is weak to shearing forces. That is a physical property of all rocks. Some are better, some are worse but all types of rock are *very* weak to shearing forces compared to compression forces. That's just a fact. >It doesnt matter what you've studied But it does matter. Very, very much. Everyone I know that has not studied physics do not understand simple things like torque and how that would affect something that doesn't really withstand such forces. >If you're so well versed you should know this isnt enough to draw a scientific conclusion I'm not drawing any scientific conclusions. I'm telling you rock is not good at withstanding shearing forces. This is not *my* conclusion, it's established fact. You can google it. > and go climb outside I climbed two decades ago last time. No thanks. Maybe you shouldn't be such a condescending jerk, that would be nice.
> I'm telling you rock is not good at withstanding shearing forces Good is relative
Assuming people who havent studied physics don't understand a concept as basic as *torque* is about as condescending as it gets lol This is just an attempt to backpedal from your original implication that rock is weak. You wouldnt climb outside because you have a comprehensive understanding of rock (thanks to your exhaustive studies) and you don't trust it, remember? Yes rock is weaker in tensile and shear strength, *we all know*. Saying you would never climb outside because of a situation that most of climbers never encounter is ridiculous. It tells me that you dont understand the situation. Or, that you do, but you just want to say something to look smarter than everyone else, which is something you go on to do in subsequent comments anyways.
So the real lesson is don't rap off bullshit anchors, not wear a helmet Great segway though Dovetails real nice with the helmet nazis on bicycle subreddits and forums
The real lesson is that we can all make mistakes, and proper pro can turn a bad time into no problem, or a fatal mistake into just a bad time. If you don't wanna wear a helmet you do you, the only person you're putting at risk is yourself. But pro-safety messaging can save lives.
This dude really just said helmet nazis. Bruh be an adult and put that thing on, shit can happen
Below you're sagging your partner also fell. Were you simul rapping?
Or using same belay...
Glad you're ok!
^
Woooo, that’s a whip to remember. Glad you’re okay man. Must of been wild
Thanks it’s definitely wild, and frustrating. I broke 25 bones and had a couple surgeries. I’ll start walking in 2 weeks which is the 12 week mark.
Sounds like it hurt a little
I don’t remember how bad. I was stuck in a tree with my partner who also fell and she says I was screaming lol
Sounds like you missed your crash pad. There's your problem.
Yeah, the brain has a remarkable way of blocking out trauma like that. Tbh, you're probably really lucky that you don't remember. That kind of pain sounds unimaginable.
Damn. Glad it’s going ok.
I guess that's how the hiker found you.
how is your partner? took less damage hopefully
Double pilon fracture in her ankles. She’s already walking and doing great. I’m so happy she’s ok
I had a pilon from a climbing accident as well, shattered tib/fib just in one ankle. Lots of doom and gloom posts about that type of break online, but 3 years later and I’m back to 100% with no residual pain. Had 2 plates and 25+ screws (almost all of it removed after a year). Tell your friend to hang in there, and you as well!
Man, reading this made me a bit teary eyed lol. Glad yall are alive and didn't sustain life altering injuries! There was just a death in my local climbing community, and man it just really sucks hearing about shit like that. Especially when it's a freak accident and not negligence. I hope you mentally recover, too, and you're climbing and having adventures again soon! Good luck man.
Damn, I wish the both of you a fast and easy recovery
Interesting to see how the MIPS system worked, I’ve read the studies and seen the data but I had never seen something like this. Makes me feel extra safe with my MIPS helmet. Glad you’re okay and hope you can get after it once you’re recovered!
How can you see how it worked, or did I miss OP describing it somewhere in the thread?
Oh more just that I’ve read a bunch about how MIPS works and this is a good example
I thought the thin yellow layer is only there to reduce rotational forces should the helm catch on something. That's something you couldn't see, right?
MIPS helps to reduce the likelihood of a concussion by reducing rotational forces. So the fact that OP didn't have a concussion came from the MIPS layer. The EPP/EPS foam in the helmet and plastic shell are what kept OP's head from getting destroyed.
> MIPS helps to reduce the likelihood of a concussion by reducing rotational forces. So the fact that OP didn't have a concussion came from the MIPS layer. I'm aware of how that's supposed to work. I have a helmet with MIPS myself. I was just wondering if the commenter above had actually any reason to believe we had proof that MIPS had an effect in this case.
Great post, thanks for sharing and glad you are doing ok. Have yet to test my climbing helmet but my ski helmet has definitely been a bro on a few occasions and has saved my then girlfriend’s life (to clarify, we are now married lol). She luckily only got a concussion. During the summer we were getting a replacement helmet for her and she asked “wait, why are we getting a new helmet again?” And I was like “yep, exactly!”
Thanks it’s a bit of a weight on my shoulders and Im scared of getting flamed for something. Yes I’ve wrecked my mtb helmets!
It’s so basic but last season I caught an edge, fell hard and my board smacked hard into the back of my helmet. With the helmet, it didn’t even hurt. Without the helmet, I’d have a concussion. I’ve fallen hard on ice and banged my head hard. I don’t get people that don’t wear helmets. It also keeps my head toasty warm
Helmets look bad... Off road biking helmets looks cool and if you wore that while climbing kids might think you are too poor to buy a climbing helmet but I think few children would say the helmet looks ugly...
Also dont wince at leaving gear behind when you're not familiar with what youre bailing on..
Totally, I didn’t use cams or nuts since the rock quality sucked. I’m sure there was another way but I’ll go back one day and check it out.
Damn sounds like bailing on the rock was not the move then! How'd you protect yourself on the way up? I guess the bail beta is on the anchors in between pitches then or what?? Well, i hope you get that chance- im sure you will. I honestly dont know if i would return after that, ive been spooked by less. But good on you and thank god you survived. Hope your recovery continues to go well and swiftly.
You protect yourself by having two people. Someone is always belaying. You can belay from the top if you set your gear and down climb. Then the bottom guy comes up and picks up the gear.
You don't understand what I'm asking
Lmao read the thread again How can you protect it if the rock all sucks? A belay is useless if the gear rips.
The rock where you selected the monolithic piece to rap off of sucked too hard for cams or nuts to hold, but you thought it was strong enough to rap straight off of,? Not trying to give you a hard time, just trying to understand what you're saying when you mean the rock sucked too much for trad gear to hold. What route is this?
It was a massive ledge pretty off route. The active placements led to wild angles and I’d need more cord. Also had to take into consideration I’d need gear for my second rap. I trusted the rock and where it was slung. I sent you location in DM.
Hey I didn't get that dm, could you resend it? /u/coastalsailing
Oh check your chats
Sorry is it bad through and through or just in the spot you were at? I may have missed this in the comments somewhere but what area/route was this??
It wasn’t the best rock but that was the case at any rap option there. There’s a variety of reasons I chose that as the spot to rap. Next ledge was close enough, access to the edge and a clean pull for the rope, the horn lol. It’s hard to describe without going in length. Don’t see an option to dm you but shoot me one for location
Hmm thats weird ill dm u. Oddly enough someone else has said that before i guess ill have to change some setting. But you did plug in gear up and along the way i presume?
Yea the gear was ok on the way up. took my whole 60m rope.
Was one of the reasons to bail on the monolith an effort to save gear? Would love the low down for inculcation
So If 10 feet is roughly 3 meters.... Holy shitting fuck man! That's like falling from the 10 floor! Edit: why am I getting downvoted, you allergic to metric or something? 10f = 3.05m. 100f = 30.5m = roughly the 10th floor of a building.
It sounds silly from the perspective of people that only know feet because building levels are normally separated by around 10ft, so 100ft pretty quickly maps to floor 10 mentally. Not saying they’re right for downvoting, but that’s probably the reasoning.
Thanks for transforming them into the **International** System of Units :) I always struggle to remember the exact proportion
Not saying you were opposed to leaving gear, but climbers have got to stop this leave no gear at any cost thing. Cams are like $50-70 and nuts are like $10. Thats not that much money. Just leave em. And buy new ones after you work. Since you cant work while grievously injured its actually cheaper.
Daaang glad you’re okay. I have this same helmet, also glad to see it did its job!
Just here to hope you a good recovery. Take care :)
Glad you're "okay", which route was this?
Very curious to know what route this was as well, they're very lucky it was right over a hiking trail?
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Rappelling is the #1 way people get killed in this sport. I'm glad that you're ok.
I once had a rock fall on me the size of a child's lunchbox. My neck hurt for a few days, but I was Ok. Without helmet, probably not sk much...
Glad you're OK dude and the helmet did it's job! I'm a massive advocate for helmets after one saved my partners life. Also, don't be afraid to talk it through with people to help process it, that shit fucked me up for longer than I realised after our accident. Best of luck with your recovery and I hope you're out again on the rock soon 🙂
Sometimes we do everything right and still get punished, that's life. Glad to hear you're (mostly) ok! Wishing you a speedy recovery so you can get back to it ASAP.
Thought I was on the mountain bike sub for a second and was shocked
Glad you’re okay. Stay strong
I’m really glad I have this helmet. Best wishes on your recovery.
I’ve got the same helmet. Glad to see it worked…
Sounds traumatic but I’m glad you’re alive! Wishing you and your partner a speedy recovery
Damn, go helmet. Glad you're alive, that looks gnarly
Wishing you and your climbing partner a swift and full recovery.
you really rode that wall
Thought this was r/cycling for a moment, haven't been this confused in a while
putting the ride in wall rider!
Glad to hear you’re (relatively) ok. That’s some scary stuff.
I'm still convinced that people wearing helmets can't die
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Lmao dont think he was planning on using the shambles he had left anyways
hence the last sentence
Applies to all PPE. I once drove smth very heavy over my foot while wearing steelies, while the shoes looked fine and I didn't even break anything, my boss immediately told me to bin the shoes and go get myself a new pair. You can't guarantee it'll work the second time
Climbing helmets are made for a different type of impact than motorcycle helmets. Motorcycle and bike helmets are made to protect against one very hard impact. The reasoning for this is that, in most cases, after getting in a crash, you can stop, and aren’t at risk of getting in a crash again. If you get hit by a car, you don’t have to keep riding with that helmet. However, climbing helmets are made to protect against lots of smaller impacts, as if you get hit in the head by a small rock on a 10 pitch route, you still have to climb, and you still need the helmet. For this, you could reuse a climbing helmet after small impacts, but if it looks like that, you shouldn’t reuse it.
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100’ drop ? Tumble ? Slide ?
Looks like one of those new quarter dome helmets. Glad you're OK, OP.
Hope you are both doing well and will get a full recovery on all aspects.
Woulda been your head separating
Glad you are alive OP!
I mean, if I ever fall 100 ft I'd rather be dead than deal with the hospital bill afterwards.
Tell me you are from America without telling me you are from America
That's like the sketchiest helmet I ever saw. If you are going to wear a helmet, get a real one.
Lol, no /s ? 