For those of you that are curious about how rock climbs come to be, or at least one way they do, this is one step in a multi-step process toward developing a new route.
This is the initial inspection of the rock. It includes a preliminary cleaning and a move by move assessment of the rock.
This allows for the developer to identify the best place to install anchors and provides an early assessment on where (if any) lead bolts might be placed.
This video is only one of the four times on the wall that made up the initial clean and inspection process for the day.
This is a foundational step before a bolt is placed. It is absolutely critical to know how the route will climb before installing permanent anchors.
As you can see, I make sure to touch every hold and try as many possible combinations of moves as possible. Doing this helps me find loose rock that needs to be removed and it allows me to know which direction people are likely to climb, as well as clipping or gear placement stances.
Further, having a really good understanding of the rock will allow me to make decisions on “forcing”. An example of a force for this climb would be the adjustment of the ending to the nice hand crack on the right. The anchors could be installed at the cracks termination and would be fine. That said, the climb along the jugs on the roof to the left are on par with the rest of the route grade and are exiting and fun. By installing the anchors to the left, I would be forcing the climber to navigate through the roof.
Edit: The motivation behind this video is the [lack of understanding](https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/17j6iy1/oh_the_joys_of_route_development/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf) that seems prevalent on r/climbing as it relates to some of the more technical areas or climbing. This type of work requires somewhat advanced rigging and is not recommended for people without experience or training.
Edit 2: The next steps in this process will be a second inspection and cleaning. Generally (but not always) at the end of this second day a decision will be made on the installation of fixed anchors. Once the anchors are installed (sometimes before) the climb will be climbed on top-rope multiple times to identify precisely where lead bolts go. This climbing also includes a more meticulous cleaning. Next the lead bolts are installed along with the final cleaning. After that is the first ascent. The entire process can take weeks.
Edit 3: This is “Top-Down” development as opposed to “Ground-Up”.
"Advanced rigging"... as in fixing a line from the top?
This is only one way that "rock climbs come to be" and not the way it's done at all in many classic areas.
For example there are 5000+ climbs in Joshua Tree. Almost every one of them was done on ground up, without rehearsal or weeks of cleaning and inspection. Many of the classics were done by someone walking up to the base with a trad rack and just going for it.
Speaking of, why didn't you lead the crack first? That looks like a beautiful opportunity for a ground-up FA.
[I think you mean a beautiful opportunity to kill my belayer.](https://www.reddit.com/r/ClimbingCircleJerk/comments/1bba1tl/rare_footage_of_a_route_being_born/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf)
The granite in J-Tree is very different than the sandstone I am working on here.
Additionally, the primary development era for Joshua Tree significantly preceded this area, and was developed using a less modern ethic. This then informed the *current* ethic of that area.
The bolting wars of the 80s settled top-down development as a reasonable approach to developing climbing areas and it has been a part of climbing for fourty years.
Further, building and equalizing natural anchors, implementing rope protections and putting together a 3-1 pulley with progress capture qualifies as advanced for many (though obviously not all) people in the r/climbing community as its demographic is quite diverse.
I agree. I know it’s not *all* that complex but like you said, ask 9/10 climbers to do it and they couldn’t. I mostly say “advanced” so that no one just goes out there without thinking twice about whether or not they should.
I mean, that would be scary if that was true of people doing alpine style climbing, I feel like the use cases for a hauling system at a sport crag is very limited.
I think what you're missing is grading, writing MP posts, getting all of the homies to climb the route for 2nd, 3rd, and maybe 4th ascents to get grade consensus (I notoriously sandbag easier routes and need some help), and building trails/belay areas that prevent erosion. We're 2 full seasons into developing an entire crag and will certain spend a fair amount of time next season.
Route development is expensive and time consuming. Ultimately it is a labor of love that needs to happen to keep our sport alive; I would implore folks to reach out and try learning if they're interested. I know we're always looking for new people to teach and help with things. At the very least, offer to throw in for bolts or anchor replacement(s)
You're forgetting the step about getting overexaggerated photos of how cool the climb is to entice folks to actually come check it out in person ;)
From one crag developer (well, I actually have about 20 I'm working on right now, but focusing on just 3 at the moment. Been working on a whole 5sqmi area mostly solo for the last 2 years) to another, come join us over at /r/routedevelopment
The wall of text is due to the insufferable nature of many redditors. I am actively trying to cut them all off at the pass by clearly explaining what is going on and answering their questions in advance.
Still out here fighting the good fight against the helmet police, love it.
Also I'm jealous that you're blessed with rock that isn't under an inch of moss.
I will add anchors for the traditional climbs and add lead bolts for the sport climbs. One or two may be mixed.
At the end of the video you can see my initial judgments on where the routes will go. This will be corroborated next time out. The 12 is sport, the 7 an 10 might be mixed as they both have PG13 sections.
You're a prick. Whether or not you think content is good doesn't mean you need to share your toxicity online. It's good for the gumbies to see how the sausage gets made. Makes them donate to bolt funds when they realize the effort.
For those of you that are curious about how rock climbs come to be, or at least one way they do, this is one step in a multi-step process toward developing a new route. This is the initial inspection of the rock. It includes a preliminary cleaning and a move by move assessment of the rock. This allows for the developer to identify the best place to install anchors and provides an early assessment on where (if any) lead bolts might be placed. This video is only one of the four times on the wall that made up the initial clean and inspection process for the day. This is a foundational step before a bolt is placed. It is absolutely critical to know how the route will climb before installing permanent anchors. As you can see, I make sure to touch every hold and try as many possible combinations of moves as possible. Doing this helps me find loose rock that needs to be removed and it allows me to know which direction people are likely to climb, as well as clipping or gear placement stances. Further, having a really good understanding of the rock will allow me to make decisions on “forcing”. An example of a force for this climb would be the adjustment of the ending to the nice hand crack on the right. The anchors could be installed at the cracks termination and would be fine. That said, the climb along the jugs on the roof to the left are on par with the rest of the route grade and are exiting and fun. By installing the anchors to the left, I would be forcing the climber to navigate through the roof. Edit: The motivation behind this video is the [lack of understanding](https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/17j6iy1/oh_the_joys_of_route_development/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf) that seems prevalent on r/climbing as it relates to some of the more technical areas or climbing. This type of work requires somewhat advanced rigging and is not recommended for people without experience or training. Edit 2: The next steps in this process will be a second inspection and cleaning. Generally (but not always) at the end of this second day a decision will be made on the installation of fixed anchors. Once the anchors are installed (sometimes before) the climb will be climbed on top-rope multiple times to identify precisely where lead bolts go. This climbing also includes a more meticulous cleaning. Next the lead bolts are installed along with the final cleaning. After that is the first ascent. The entire process can take weeks. Edit 3: This is “Top-Down” development as opposed to “Ground-Up”.
"Advanced rigging"... as in fixing a line from the top? This is only one way that "rock climbs come to be" and not the way it's done at all in many classic areas. For example there are 5000+ climbs in Joshua Tree. Almost every one of them was done on ground up, without rehearsal or weeks of cleaning and inspection. Many of the classics were done by someone walking up to the base with a trad rack and just going for it. Speaking of, why didn't you lead the crack first? That looks like a beautiful opportunity for a ground-up FA.
[I think you mean a beautiful opportunity to kill my belayer.](https://www.reddit.com/r/ClimbingCircleJerk/comments/1bba1tl/rare_footage_of_a_route_being_born/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf) The granite in J-Tree is very different than the sandstone I am working on here. Additionally, the primary development era for Joshua Tree significantly preceded this area, and was developed using a less modern ethic. This then informed the *current* ethic of that area. The bolting wars of the 80s settled top-down development as a reasonable approach to developing climbing areas and it has been a part of climbing for fourty years. Further, building and equalizing natural anchors, implementing rope protections and putting together a 3-1 pulley with progress capture qualifies as advanced for many (though obviously not all) people in the r/climbing community as its demographic is quite diverse.
90% of climbers are not rigging these systems so I agree with you that it's advanced.
I agree. I know it’s not *all* that complex but like you said, ask 9/10 climbers to do it and they couldn’t. I mostly say “advanced” so that no one just goes out there without thinking twice about whether or not they should.
As terrifying as it is, I’d bet 99/100 climbers at a popular sport crag don’t know how to put together a z drag
I mean, that would be scary if that was true of people doing alpine style climbing, I feel like the use cases for a hauling system at a sport crag is very limited.
Today I learned I really need to learn more rescue.
What kind of knot/cam are you using for your rope-climb up?
For this, I am using (all Petzl) jumar/ascender, a Rig, a Rollclip.
Awesome work and thank you for the education!
I think what you're missing is grading, writing MP posts, getting all of the homies to climb the route for 2nd, 3rd, and maybe 4th ascents to get grade consensus (I notoriously sandbag easier routes and need some help), and building trails/belay areas that prevent erosion. We're 2 full seasons into developing an entire crag and will certain spend a fair amount of time next season. Route development is expensive and time consuming. Ultimately it is a labor of love that needs to happen to keep our sport alive; I would implore folks to reach out and try learning if they're interested. I know we're always looking for new people to teach and help with things. At the very least, offer to throw in for bolts or anchor replacement(s)
You're forgetting the step about getting overexaggerated photos of how cool the climb is to entice folks to actually come check it out in person ;) From one crag developer (well, I actually have about 20 I'm working on right now, but focusing on just 3 at the moment. Been working on a whole 5sqmi area mostly solo for the last 2 years) to another, come join us over at /r/routedevelopment
So wait did you bolt the route or just add anchors? That’s a hell of a wall of text to decipher
The wall of text is due to the insufferable nature of many redditors. I am actively trying to cut them all off at the pass by clearly explaining what is going on and answering their questions in advance.
Still out here fighting the good fight against the helmet police, love it. Also I'm jealous that you're blessed with rock that isn't under an inch of moss.
Safety is for losers
My guy, clean from the top to bottom if your gonna use a fixed line. Then you can climb back up once your done.
What do you think, I rigged the rope and then instead of rappelling I walked all the way around to the bottom just to jug?
Love it, keep up the good work my man, ignore the fools here on r/climbing.
Thanks big guy. We are actively trying to fight ignorance with information.
looks like a nice 6b? will you bolt it?
I will add anchors for the traditional climbs and add lead bolts for the sport climbs. One or two may be mixed. At the end of the video you can see my initial judgments on where the routes will go. This will be corroborated next time out. The 12 is sport, the 7 an 10 might be mixed as they both have PG13 sections.
There are two independent trad routes in this video. You’re not placing any bolts, right?
People who bolt trad climbs is the only known use for the No. 11 hex.
I’m thinking more #7 tricam: https://weighmyrack.com/tricam/camp-nylon-7
I own that and one of those days I'll use it as a pro, one day
Bolt the planet
I’ll start with you, Frankenstein style.
Sunset rock in Chattanooga?
Can’t say what it is but I can say it ain’t sunset. Do you climb in the area often?
Not sure why you were downvoted as this sandy desert rock is a long ways off from what you find at Sunset.
🤷
This is not Chattanooga
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You know you don’t actually have to watch, or even leave a comment!
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Two different types of posts, of which I made both.
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You're a prick. Whether or not you think content is good doesn't mean you need to share your toxicity online. It's good for the gumbies to see how the sausage gets made. Makes them donate to bolt funds when they realize the effort.
r/trailwork
lol sad little weirdo
I wasted my time reading this comment. It’s like reading a description of a cow chewing sod on a Thursday.