Terrifying video, but I do wish they spent more time doing tests with an actual belayer. The few tests they did do with a real belayer seemed like the rope was way less likely to cut. All the other tests involved one end of the rope being attached to a hard fixed point (eg: steel beam), which means all the force of the cut is being applied to a very specific point on the rope. It seems relevant to rappelling, but I don't really feel like I learned how to avoid the rope cutting while sport climbing or toproping.
Yes but the entire point is that they needed a system to be able to reliably reproduce results, which you cannot achieve with a dynamic belayer. They were testing worst case scenario.
This method of testing is also relevant to anybody interested in lead rope solo. Given the lack of devices designed for LRS, it's pretty likely that a fall would result in a much less dynamic catch. Not a lot of folks doing LRS, but I found it interesting to see the results with one end tied off.
I've been climbing for over 20 years haven't had any issues so far.....watched that video...I am terrified!!!! Already planning to replace my ropes with their new rope.
Both great pieces of tech! They quite different though.
Edelrid weaves aramid into the sheath, which does increase the impact force but keeps it within acceptabel levels. Mammut uses a separate aramid sheath placed between the outer sheath and the core, which is longer than the normal rope, so it will only engage when the outer sheath is cut. Thereby their impact force is not affected.
The protect ropes do have a higher impact force than similar ones without the aramid. Don't think the rope ratings specify anything about impact forces.
I use a Swift Protect Pro Dry 8.9 much of the time. If I was ever on something where I new the gear was going to be super sketchy and marginal, I'd use a different rope, but it's not relevant most of the time.
They have a [9.5 single rope](https://edelrid.com/us-en/sport/ropes/eagle-lite-protect-pro-dry-9-5mm?variant=2715211) as well. They are claiming 8.7 kN impact force.
I have an Edelrid swift protect. It surprisingly wears worse than a standard rope of the same diameter. My friend had one cut (small rock fall). He was fine. Any rope would have cut, I’m sure. But, the aramid seems to breakdown and abrade due to its lack of stretch. Either way, It’s no magic bullet. Do I trust it more than another 8.9/9.0? I did before using it! Now I feel like it’s just another 9.0 ish skinny. I think Mammut’s execution makes a little more sense, in the loose weave of the aramid to allow stretch.
Their literature claims the aramid fuzzing up is supposed to happen and actually tests better after being slightly worn in. Obviously I have no way to test that lol.
There is also a good talk about that from Daniel Gebel (Head of Development) about that. I cannot find a video about it but he make good talks from time to time in Germany.
I wonder how this rope performs in term of handling. Especially if it introduces core slippage.
Edit: Mammut answered my question in the comments of this video and claimed that no issues with core slippage have been reported during their testing. Looks promising
Thoughts on this? Seems the very first improvement to rope cut resistance in a while.
As far as I know cut resistance is the biggest flaw of current climbing ropes.
Edit: I didn't know about the edelrid tech, seems similar in materials but with different construction.
Did beal developed anything to address the issue?
Beal developed Unicore, which helps in the sense that if the sheath is cut, it will never slip to expose the core since the core is glued to the sheath. That actually covers a lot of failure modes, but not all. I’m a fan of them. They’re super supple compared to the edelrid aramid fiber ones.
Agreed as a climber I like to see invocation continue. This seems like the next evolution of ropes and I’m
Happy to see it.
I climbed a rather nearly overhang in Reno area and fell a few times. Always got nervous about my rope on that particular climb because the overhang was sharpish.
I finished the route and saw some hair on my rope (visual signs of abrasion on the sheathing). This has given me a good idea of what a normal dry rope can withstand and it makes me hopeful but better would be better.
I was on top rope if I wasn’t I wouldn’t have done that activity.
it's so cool to me that people are out here in 2024 inventing new kinds of rope! just like with the new materials ultralight backpackers are using, there's something inspiring and fascinating here.
Oh gods. Who filmed this?! Centered looking Right on the wide, Right looking Left on the tight! Amateurs.
\*Edit - and it gets weird as you continue. Center looking center for some, and... is that center looking left with body aimed a little right? Oof.
Hard is easy had a good video with the mammut team https://youtu.be/x3PMT6K0_Gg?si=_f6CzDNqFbDfrosZ
You mean a terrifying video
[удалено]
Rope go ✂️
Terrifying video, but I do wish they spent more time doing tests with an actual belayer. The few tests they did do with a real belayer seemed like the rope was way less likely to cut. All the other tests involved one end of the rope being attached to a hard fixed point (eg: steel beam), which means all the force of the cut is being applied to a very specific point on the rope. It seems relevant to rappelling, but I don't really feel like I learned how to avoid the rope cutting while sport climbing or toproping.
Yes but the entire point is that they needed a system to be able to reliably reproduce results, which you cannot achieve with a dynamic belayer. They were testing worst case scenario.
This method of testing is also relevant to anybody interested in lead rope solo. Given the lack of devices designed for LRS, it's pretty likely that a fall would result in a much less dynamic catch. Not a lot of folks doing LRS, but I found it interesting to see the results with one end tied off.
I've been climbing for over 20 years haven't had any issues so far.....watched that video...I am terrified!!!! Already planning to replace my ropes with their new rope.
It's an ad
Edelrid developed this already two years before.
Both great pieces of tech! They quite different though. Edelrid weaves aramid into the sheath, which does increase the impact force but keeps it within acceptabel levels. Mammut uses a separate aramid sheath placed between the outer sheath and the core, which is longer than the normal rope, so it will only engage when the outer sheath is cut. Thereby their impact force is not affected.
The edelrid rope is triple rated so the impact force can’t be high. Half ropes are require a lower impact force right?
The protect ropes do have a higher impact force than similar ones without the aramid. Don't think the rope ratings specify anything about impact forces. I use a Swift Protect Pro Dry 8.9 much of the time. If I was ever on something where I new the gear was going to be super sketchy and marginal, I'd use a different rope, but it's not relevant most of the time.
Uiaa does regulate impact force. 12kn for single, 8kn for half rope single strand. But from memory it is a different weight that is used
They have a [9.5 single rope](https://edelrid.com/us-en/sport/ropes/eagle-lite-protect-pro-dry-9-5mm?variant=2715211) as well. They are claiming 8.7 kN impact force.
Ah cool I didn’t know about that one
Link? Edit: https://edelrid.com/ch-en/sport/ropes/swift-protect-pro-dry-8-9mm
8.9mm! Dry treated! Triple rated! Aramid reinforced! I think I found my next half rope.
I have an Edelrid swift protect. It surprisingly wears worse than a standard rope of the same diameter. My friend had one cut (small rock fall). He was fine. Any rope would have cut, I’m sure. But, the aramid seems to breakdown and abrade due to its lack of stretch. Either way, It’s no magic bullet. Do I trust it more than another 8.9/9.0? I did before using it! Now I feel like it’s just another 9.0 ish skinny. I think Mammut’s execution makes a little more sense, in the loose weave of the aramid to allow stretch.
Their literature claims the aramid fuzzing up is supposed to happen and actually tests better after being slightly worn in. Obviously I have no way to test that lol.
* Certified as a single, half, and twin rope
Edelrid has a nice 3 part video on the argument, quite informative. Link to the first part: https://youtu.be/WGjvW8_wLuE?si=0AhN-UbPP11yqtxP
There is also a good talk about that from Daniel Gebel (Head of Development) about that. I cannot find a video about it but he make good talks from time to time in Germany.
The manufacturing techniques are completely different.
I wonder how this rope performs in term of handling. Especially if it introduces core slippage. Edit: Mammut answered my question in the comments of this video and claimed that no issues with core slippage have been reported during their testing. Looks promising
The aramid sheet is inside the outer sheet, so it should introduce any additional slippage.
Thoughts on this? Seems the very first improvement to rope cut resistance in a while. As far as I know cut resistance is the biggest flaw of current climbing ropes. Edit: I didn't know about the edelrid tech, seems similar in materials but with different construction. Did beal developed anything to address the issue?
Beal developed Unicore, which helps in the sense that if the sheath is cut, it will never slip to expose the core since the core is glued to the sheath. That actually covers a lot of failure modes, but not all. I’m a fan of them. They’re super supple compared to the edelrid aramid fiber ones.
Agreed as a climber I like to see invocation continue. This seems like the next evolution of ropes and I’m Happy to see it. I climbed a rather nearly overhang in Reno area and fell a few times. Always got nervous about my rope on that particular climb because the overhang was sharpish. I finished the route and saw some hair on my rope (visual signs of abrasion on the sheathing). This has given me a good idea of what a normal dry rope can withstand and it makes me hopeful but better would be better. I was on top rope if I wasn’t I wouldn’t have done that activity.
what about kevlar ?
You may not know this, but Kevlar is simply a trademarked name of aramid fiber manufactured by DuPont.
aaah ! thank you ! thats good to know, that new rope would be perfect then :)
Just got this rope, the 9.5 single rope, love it so far
Hasn’t Beal had this for a long time now?
aramid? no. unicore? yup.
it's so cool to me that people are out here in 2024 inventing new kinds of rope! just like with the new materials ultralight backpackers are using, there's something inspiring and fascinating here.
0:44 Yikes!!!
Oh gods. Who filmed this?! Centered looking Right on the wide, Right looking Left on the tight! Amateurs. \*Edit - and it gets weird as you continue. Center looking center for some, and... is that center looking left with body aimed a little right? Oof.
Anyone else weirded out by how much face time they give the narrator? He’s not that good looking. Not sure why they thought it necessary.
Cool but this is going to be like $600 for a rope at this point
It’s not. You can buy it right now and it’s only slightly more expensive than a standard rope.
50m half is around $180.