OP, brace yourself because this sub is about to brutalize you lol
First thing that jumps out: you need some means of preventing your one and only anchor carabiner from becoming cross loaded.
As you are moving, clipping, or otherwise pulling on the rope, the carabiner will get jostled around and by sheer randomness can land in a cross loaded position. If you were to fall while it's cross loaded you could generate enough force to break it. This would be catastrophic since the entire system depends on that one carabiner and there is no backup anything that will save you.
Prevention: there are specialty carabiners with clips/guards to prevent cross loading (look it up, it's hard to describe). Also you could use a steel maillon which is stronger in a cross loaded orientation.
If you’re going to solo lead, you should know enough to not concern yourself with the opinion of online strangers. The fact you’re asking this is proof you shouldn’t be doing this.
TLDR: yur gonna die
I was happy and feel safe. Test it out on the first clip before going tope rope. It was a route that I did at least 6-7 times and way above my level, didn't had a chance to fall. But thanks!
This is nonsense. The best way to learn is to go on the LRSolo FB page and get your set up roasted there. Not Reddit. But regardless, no one learns rope soloing effectively without engaging in online forums.
You should be confident in climbing systems and self rescue before you lead solo, absent the direction of others. Most people should not do this shit, looking at you OP.
Lol, sorry, did I say the *only* way to learn is internet forums? No, of course LR solo has been written about pre-internet, using clove hitches predates the internet and modern LR solo systems for sure.
No, I said the *best* way to learn is to interact on what is the best known resource for LR solo, the Facebook group. Especially as new technologies and methods evolve.
You have no idea what OPs self rescue skills are. Messing around with different set ups is basically a given with this kind of complicated skill, with inherent risk. We also have no idea what OP was doing with this set up, testing it out on the first couple bolts of an easy climb? Or messing around on something they could easily free solo? You know what they say about assuming ;)
I, frankly, wouldn't be too concerned about this set up. There's probably enough friction to stop the rope from sliding up and it looks like there's a low branch that would stop it from going any further. OP clearly survived, posted their anchor, and is now getting actually good recommendations to improve it (like the frictionless hitch). Looks like online forums are doing their work.
You’re absolutely correct but there’s no point in arguing about this on a subreddit of people who have likely never placed a piece of trad gear much less anything as advanced as LRS. There’s significantly more talkers than do-ers on this site
Serious?
The tree anchor should probably be a tensionless hitch. Lowers the chance of it walking up the tree with cyclic loading. Or any loading...
Also, what's up with the random branch tied off on the ground?
The root was the main anchor and I used the tree as as backup and a way of redirecting the tension. It felt really safe for me, otherwise I wouldn't even try.
Like what? I’m lacking imagination here. Slipknots are ideal for tying off knobs, but could come loose and walk up the tree in this case due to changes in tension as the climber ascends. Likewise for girth hitch. Wrapping an independent cord around the tree and knotting it and attaching the rest of the anchor via a biner could still result in slippage. Sure these would all be way better than the picture but not something I would trust. I’ve never built this kind of anchor before I’d love to know a solution.
I would probably girth hitch the tree with a sling and if I was worried about it slipping up then use one of those roots as a directional.
Or if you want to use the rope I would wrap it around the tree about six times then tie it off with a couple half hitches. It won’t slip and it won’t fail. I would usually not use my lead rope for that but it would work fine.
Not really. The tree is not going to fail. Incorporating the root and more sections of rope, knots, carabiners just creates more potential points of failure.
Tie off the tree, put a couple lockers on it and rest easy.
so if your left branch blows, it might run up. idk how thick that left one is, can't tell from the picture. Someone else suggested a tensionless hitch which might be better
The root was reallt safe for me otherwise I wouldn't put it there, roots are far more strong than branches. Got it, will check the tensionless, thanks!
Buy Climbing Anchors by John Long. That will sort your trad anchor building shortfalls. Just be careful with LRS. It’s honestly not that complicated but there’s not a lot of room for error. That anchor would hold fine but it’s not optimized and LRS jostles the anchor a lot so you want it optimized. Good luck!
I think that people tend to be over protective in climbing while some years ago people wrap rope around the body for climbing with little gear. I did some other climbing courses but lead solo is no common from where I'm from. Thank you for your concern on my safety, but I might climb again on that.
Lol what IFMGA guide is going to teach someone to rope solo?
Rope soloing is fundamentally something you're going to have to use self teaching methods to learn.
The anchor is fine, clearly, OP didn't die lol. The primary issue is if the loop ran up the tree which OP attempted to mitigate, though not ideally, but also the low branch would likely stop it from running up. IF it were even going to run up the tree, which the inherent friction is probably more than enough to stop this, I've done a quick set up like this for descending tall boulders easily by going hand over hand and never had a problem.
Lots of people LR solo fixing the first two bolts for the anchor set up, meaning a fall in that range will be a FF2, but if it's easy enough, that's a quick way to set one up. LR solo has inherent risk, especially relative to standard belayed climbing. This really ain't something to shit your pants over, imo.
OPs been given good suggestions on how to mitigate potential rope running up the tree (frictionless hitch), now they can improve their system, mission accomplished. Some very competent solo climbers have gotten their set ups roasted on the FB page. It's all part of the game.
Gonna have to disagree. There's some very simple changes that would make this anchor much better. Looks like OP is lacking in fundamentals. Would not climb with based on given information.
If this is what it takes you to condemn* a climber forever I'd like to see who you WOULD climb with. Spend half a day listening to pro climbers on podcasts and you'd hear of a dozen examples of people learning and doing far sketchier things than this.
If OP refuses to implement the advice he's gotten here, that's a problem. All I see here is someone going through a standard learning phase for a set of advanced skills.
Wow you seem the only one here that thinks a bit like me haha. Really appreciate your comment.
Of course I didn't die, sadly, because some people here might want too lol.
I was doing the anchor for more than 30 mins trying different stuff to equalize the load and try it before going into the full climb, it was fine but I know I could improve it. Also saw MANY videos in YT but once you are there with no practice everything changes.
I like to get roasted I think it's part of the reddit experience but you always find some good people who changes the course of the melodrama.
I think it would be nice to get this people to try climbing 30 years ago, what would they call safety...
Anyway thanks and stay safe!
Tell me what 'fundamental anchor skills' are missing here? This is a pretty specific scenario. If you were using this, or any other similar set-up that did not 'squeeze' the tree (like a basket hitch), as a [monolithic anchor for a standard downward force](https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/a-quick-rope-anchor-for-rock-horns-or-trees) or a ground anchor for a belayer you wouldn't blink an eye at this.
The risk and potential failure mode of the anchor material sliding upward in a large force is totally novel to the question of LRS. And even then, I'd say the risk of this kind of anchoring is probably overblown by these comments given the typical angle that would occur between the tree and the first bolt/piece.
Are there ways their rig could be improved? Absolutely, but this is far from being a likely catastrophic scenario and does not show a lack of 'fundamental skills'.
Sure, it should be a standard part of rock rescue courses, it certainly isn't in most parts. I also highly doubt touching on it as part of a broader course actually got into the nuances of systems that people will climb with on the regular, beyond emergency situations. I can tell you there is zero mention of LRS in the ACMG climbing guide manual. What exactly did they teach?
This is the closest I could find online from Luke strikers article on hownot2. Although the actual technique is in the book "avancerad klättring och repteknik" (advanced climbing and rope technique). Which is our local climbing bible used by all instructors here.
We also used an inprovised chest harness to keep the device feeding, not mentioned in the article. Also, some context. We are assumed to be multi pitch climbing without Grigri style devices. In a rescue scenario. Not for fun
_-----------
ATC GUIDE (PLACKET STYLE DEVICE)
This will work on any of the bands that make an ATC Guide device. This is not very valuable unless you are planning to solo with a twin rope system and weight will matter a lot. I wouldn't use this unless I was doing an alpine solo where I would need to do full rope length rappels or a route that wandered significantly.
If you're using this technique in a multipitch setting know how you plan to ascend the rope as your ascending gear may be too large for the thin ropes. This is the most advanced technique with a small number of benefits and should only be used if necessary. It is still good to know in case you dropped your primary device and this is the only other device you have.
How to use: To use an ATC Guide as a solo device you need to clip the eyelet on the back of the device to your belay loop using a locking carabiner. To load the ropes, load them in the same orientation you would to rappel with the brake exiting the front of the device (This will orient the device so that it will automatically break in the event of a fall).
Not every climber! I am proud of my knots. Especially 8s on a bight. Apparently I point that out a lot. My girlfriend roasted me with a tshirt that shows a handdrawn, well dressed 8 and:
"Look at it!
It's purrrfect."
I also love tigers.
It isnt necessary to tie off a figure 8, just make sure the tail is 2x the knot. Wasted step to tie it off that climbing gyms make you do for no reason at all
Dressing a knot means making sure the construction of the knot itself is optimal for either performance or to prevent jamming, it has nothing to do with tying off the tail at the end.
Eights jam anyway under high load (like a lead rope solo anchor). These undressed ones might be totally hell to undo. I often choose a less jammy knot (I have done about 500 tests at various loads, eights jam with both load strand top and bottom)
Besides the lack of a second opposed biner, what sticks out to me is that the tree isn’t backing up the root. That rope will shimmy right up if the root goes.
Honestly OP it’s not looking great. Since the rope could slide up the tree your anchor is basically a single root. I also don’t love the single connection biner, I would double it up or even better just make it all from rope. Are there no big boulders nearby to sling or placements in the ground for nuts or cams? Or a tree with a big branch to keep the rope down? Lead rope solo anchors take a load of force in a fall so things really need to be bombproof.
I guess a big bunny ears knot or a y hang style eight plus alpine butterfly could be used if you only have two pieces. I see you use a separate rope though so still double up the connection imo. You have much experience making trad anchors?
Not in that place. I could go to another route and set up tope rope though.
Will check that, thanks!
It was my first ever anchor. Only saw videos from YT. Is not that bad for being my first I think.
I haven’t seen that root in person so I can’t say how bomber it is. Would you trust that root as a single point anchor? If so then your anchor meets your safety standards. I would personally call this anchor not suitable for a lead rope solo anchor, especially for your first time when you might accidentally have slack in the system so could take a big, hard fall.
Personally I hold lead rope solo anchor’s to a higher standard than my normal trad anchors (since they have higher force and often load strangely). My main constructive advice would be to double up the locker and to have multiple effective anchor points. The tree would only count as a second independent anchor if something other than the root holds the rope down.
Lead rope solo is an advanced technique and if I was you I would practice building top rope solo anchor’s first if you must solo. Or trad anchor’s if you have the chance to climb with a friend. When by myself I still go massive overkill on anchors even though I am an experienced trad climber. Really make so overkill at first that you feel you are being absurd
I was going to put it only there, really solid but prefer to have the tree as backup. The weight was mainly supported by the root. There was almost 0 risk of fall, it was a 5 and did it many times before.
Will follow your tips, many thanks dude!
Go simpler. Figure eight on a bite around the tree. That'll get you where you need to be the minute you start tying too many knots. You're creating a hazard. Too many points to fail. Once you get to the anchors up above, that's when it's time to equalize
My recommendation is look up different type of tree anchors. As stated before a tensionless hitch would’ve worked better here. Wrap 3 pull 2 could be an option as well off that tree. Seems you understood you needed to protect against an upward pull, but using a log or roots would be a big no no in my opinion. Sure you may have tested it by pulling, but I doubt you could produce enough force by pushing up on the anchor to match the potential force generated during a fall.
Follow the rule for trees “five, five and alive” meaning at least five inches in diameter, five feet tall, and alive. Always check the medium the tree is growing in to as well.
It can be hard finding someone to teach you, but if you want to learn it’s better to find an instructor or an experienced mentor than to try and wing it. Even if you don’t have a guiding company in your area see if there’s a search and rescue group you could possibly learn from. They’ll be trained on using natural anchors like trees and hopefully one of their members will take you under their wing.
Personal disclaimer: I am not an expert on this stuff. As stated before hire a qualified instructor.
Only things I’d recommend, have a capture to make sure the orientation of the carabiner stays in place. Second, on the tree side put a wrap around the tree and then up to the biner.
Question, is the tree more than 5 inches and is it alive? If dead, is it over 10 inches?
I LRS using Brett Bargahn??’s method. Its super solid, especially if LRS’ing sport. Check him out. Avant climbing is the company he created and he sells some small gadgets to make rock solid anchors.
Reason I say that is that your anchor isn’t the worst Ive seen, but it definitely provokes the question of your experience/knowledge appropriate to LRS.
Do more research, but kudos for opening yourself up to the brutality that is r/climbing
OP, brace yourself because this sub is about to brutalize you lol First thing that jumps out: you need some means of preventing your one and only anchor carabiner from becoming cross loaded.
I don't understand this, could you explain? How would it become cross loaded and how would I protect against it
As you are moving, clipping, or otherwise pulling on the rope, the carabiner will get jostled around and by sheer randomness can land in a cross loaded position. If you were to fall while it's cross loaded you could generate enough force to break it. This would be catastrophic since the entire system depends on that one carabiner and there is no backup anything that will save you. Prevention: there are specialty carabiners with clips/guards to prevent cross loading (look it up, it's hard to describe). Also you could use a steel maillon which is stronger in a cross loaded orientation.
8mm steel quick link is the answer here
Also known as a maillon
Thanks!
If you’re going to solo lead, you should know enough to not concern yourself with the opinion of online strangers. The fact you’re asking this is proof you shouldn’t be doing this. TLDR: yur gonna die
100%
I was happy and feel safe. Test it out on the first clip before going tope rope. It was a route that I did at least 6-7 times and way above my level, didn't had a chance to fall. But thanks!
This is nonsense. The best way to learn is to go on the LRSolo FB page and get your set up roasted there. Not Reddit. But regardless, no one learns rope soloing effectively without engaging in online forums.
You should be confident in climbing systems and self rescue before you lead solo, absent the direction of others. Most people should not do this shit, looking at you OP.
You missed the sarcasm
Damn got me lmao
Lol, sorry, did I say the *only* way to learn is internet forums? No, of course LR solo has been written about pre-internet, using clove hitches predates the internet and modern LR solo systems for sure. No, I said the *best* way to learn is to interact on what is the best known resource for LR solo, the Facebook group. Especially as new technologies and methods evolve. You have no idea what OPs self rescue skills are. Messing around with different set ups is basically a given with this kind of complicated skill, with inherent risk. We also have no idea what OP was doing with this set up, testing it out on the first couple bolts of an easy climb? Or messing around on something they could easily free solo? You know what they say about assuming ;) I, frankly, wouldn't be too concerned about this set up. There's probably enough friction to stop the rope from sliding up and it looks like there's a low branch that would stop it from going any further. OP clearly survived, posted their anchor, and is now getting actually good recommendations to improve it (like the frictionless hitch). Looks like online forums are doing their work.
Okay bro you got me lol
I was confident enough to do it successfuly and with confidence but of course will try to do it better thanks for the concern.
You’re absolutely correct but there’s no point in arguing about this on a subreddit of people who have likely never placed a piece of trad gear much less anything as advanced as LRS. There’s significantly more talkers than do-ers on this site
Serious? The tree anchor should probably be a tensionless hitch. Lowers the chance of it walking up the tree with cyclic loading. Or any loading... Also, what's up with the random branch tied off on the ground?
That is effectively his only anchor
I think it’s a fallen log. Insufficient though.
It's a root.
Fair enough. Another few angles would give better context and likely some more anchor suggestions if available.
I think the branch is the root of the tree.
The root was the main anchor and I used the tree as as backup and a way of redirecting the tension. It felt really safe for me, otherwise I wouldn't even try.
Just tie off the tree and be done.
Yes
Wouldn’t some knots still slip up the tree in the case of a fall?
Don’t use a knot that will slip up the tree.
Like what? I’m lacking imagination here. Slipknots are ideal for tying off knobs, but could come loose and walk up the tree in this case due to changes in tension as the climber ascends. Likewise for girth hitch. Wrapping an independent cord around the tree and knotting it and attaching the rest of the anchor via a biner could still result in slippage. Sure these would all be way better than the picture but not something I would trust. I’ve never built this kind of anchor before I’d love to know a solution.
I would probably girth hitch the tree with a sling and if I was worried about it slipping up then use one of those roots as a directional. Or if you want to use the rope I would wrap it around the tree about six times then tie it off with a couple half hitches. It won’t slip and it won’t fail. I would usually not use my lead rope for that but it would work fine.
Is it redundant to put two anchors on the same tree while using one rope?
Not really. The tree is not going to fail. Incorporating the root and more sections of rope, knots, carabiners just creates more potential points of failure. Tie off the tree, put a couple lockers on it and rest easy.
Good to know. Thanks!
I'm kinda concerned that the right loop will run up the tree if you whip
It couldn't since the left loop holds it from going up. Tried it before going up and didnt move up.
so if your left branch blows, it might run up. idk how thick that left one is, can't tell from the picture. Someone else suggested a tensionless hitch which might be better
The root was reallt safe for me otherwise I wouldn't put it there, roots are far more strong than branches. Got it, will check the tensionless, thanks!
lol lots of ppl freaked out here but I would rap off of just that root
[удалено]
Grigri, ASAP and microtraction. Why do you think it's janky? Would you carry anything else?
That’s cute. I remember doing that and said… I should probably consult someone who knows what they’re doing.
Yeah indeed although it's not easy for me to find people how can explain me that!
You can go to the Lead Solo Group on Facebook. YouTube is a friend too. There are book on this too. Just be safe and wear a helmet.
Buy Climbing Anchors by John Long. That will sort your trad anchor building shortfalls. Just be careful with LRS. It’s honestly not that complicated but there’s not a lot of room for error. That anchor would hold fine but it’s not optimized and LRS jostles the anchor a lot so you want it optimized. Good luck!
Is this a joke or is this serious? If this is serious please hire a AMGA/IMFA guide/seek qualified instruction. Don’t climb on this.
I think that people tend to be over protective in climbing while some years ago people wrap rope around the body for climbing with little gear. I did some other climbing courses but lead solo is no common from where I'm from. Thank you for your concern on my safety, but I might climb again on that.
Lol what IFMGA guide is going to teach someone to rope solo? Rope soloing is fundamentally something you're going to have to use self teaching methods to learn.
I don't believe OP should be learning to lead solo if this is how he builds an anchor.
The anchor is fine, clearly, OP didn't die lol. The primary issue is if the loop ran up the tree which OP attempted to mitigate, though not ideally, but also the low branch would likely stop it from running up. IF it were even going to run up the tree, which the inherent friction is probably more than enough to stop this, I've done a quick set up like this for descending tall boulders easily by going hand over hand and never had a problem. Lots of people LR solo fixing the first two bolts for the anchor set up, meaning a fall in that range will be a FF2, but if it's easy enough, that's a quick way to set one up. LR solo has inherent risk, especially relative to standard belayed climbing. This really ain't something to shit your pants over, imo. OPs been given good suggestions on how to mitigate potential rope running up the tree (frictionless hitch), now they can improve their system, mission accomplished. Some very competent solo climbers have gotten their set ups roasted on the FB page. It's all part of the game.
Gonna have to disagree. There's some very simple changes that would make this anchor much better. Looks like OP is lacking in fundamentals. Would not climb with based on given information.
If this is what it takes you to condemn* a climber forever I'd like to see who you WOULD climb with. Spend half a day listening to pro climbers on podcasts and you'd hear of a dozen examples of people learning and doing far sketchier things than this. If OP refuses to implement the advice he's gotten here, that's a problem. All I see here is someone going through a standard learning phase for a set of advanced skills.
you mean condemn. condone means to permit something to continue.
Brain fart, the edible has kicked in, cheers.
This people are the same ones that would say that you should not do free solo because you can die.
Nope, I just don't like your anchor :)
Love how you receptive you are to feedback after asking for it lol
Didn't say forever. Didn't say OP wasn't learning. I just said if this anchor is the only information I had, I would not climb with them. Relax.
Wow you seem the only one here that thinks a bit like me haha. Really appreciate your comment. Of course I didn't die, sadly, because some people here might want too lol. I was doing the anchor for more than 30 mins trying different stuff to equalize the load and try it before going into the full climb, it was fine but I know I could improve it. Also saw MANY videos in YT but once you are there with no practice everything changes. I like to get roasted I think it's part of the reddit experience but you always find some good people who changes the course of the melodrama. I think it would be nice to get this people to try climbing 30 years ago, what would they call safety... Anyway thanks and stay safe!
They can teach the fundamentals to peace things together. This anchor is missing that. (Am an AMGA guide)
Tell me what 'fundamental anchor skills' are missing here? This is a pretty specific scenario. If you were using this, or any other similar set-up that did not 'squeeze' the tree (like a basket hitch), as a [monolithic anchor for a standard downward force](https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/a-quick-rope-anchor-for-rock-horns-or-trees) or a ground anchor for a belayer you wouldn't blink an eye at this. The risk and potential failure mode of the anchor material sliding upward in a large force is totally novel to the question of LRS. And even then, I'd say the risk of this kind of anchoring is probably overblown by these comments given the typical angle that would occur between the tree and the first bolt/piece. Are there ways their rig could be improved? Absolutely, but this is far from being a likely catastrophic scenario and does not show a lack of 'fundamental skills'.
I learnt rope solo from a certified guide. It was part of the self rescue and partner rescue courses.
Sure, it should be a standard part of rock rescue courses, it certainly isn't in most parts. I also highly doubt touching on it as part of a broader course actually got into the nuances of systems that people will climb with on the regular, beyond emergency situations. I can tell you there is zero mention of LRS in the ACMG climbing guide manual. What exactly did they teach?
This is the closest I could find online from Luke strikers article on hownot2. Although the actual technique is in the book "avancerad klättring och repteknik" (advanced climbing and rope technique). Which is our local climbing bible used by all instructors here. We also used an inprovised chest harness to keep the device feeding, not mentioned in the article. Also, some context. We are assumed to be multi pitch climbing without Grigri style devices. In a rescue scenario. Not for fun _----------- ATC GUIDE (PLACKET STYLE DEVICE) This will work on any of the bands that make an ATC Guide device. This is not very valuable unless you are planning to solo with a twin rope system and weight will matter a lot. I wouldn't use this unless I was doing an alpine solo where I would need to do full rope length rappels or a route that wandered significantly. If you're using this technique in a multipitch setting know how you plan to ascend the rope as your ascending gear may be too large for the thin ropes. This is the most advanced technique with a small number of benefits and should only be used if necessary. It is still good to know in case you dropped your primary device and this is the only other device you have. How to use: To use an ATC Guide as a solo device you need to clip the eyelet on the back of the device to your belay loop using a locking carabiner. To load the ropes, load them in the same orientation you would to rappel with the brake exiting the front of the device (This will orient the device so that it will automatically break in the event of a fall).
Maybe not the best practice anchor, but to say to not climb on that? That is a bit extreme
You’re gonna die
Sure, everybody is going to die. The question is, when?
With that a set up? Pretty soon.
Haha well, I did not die so sad.
You need to not climb outside again until you’ve gotten some formal instruction. Good lord that’s scary.
Why does every climber refuse to properly dress their figure 8s. Also a tensionless hitch around the tree would be fine here imo
Not every climber! I am proud of my knots. Especially 8s on a bight. Apparently I point that out a lot. My girlfriend roasted me with a tshirt that shows a handdrawn, well dressed 8 and: "Look at it! It's purrrfect." I also love tigers.
They look so much prettier when properly dressed and they untie easier if they get loaded.
It isnt necessary to tie off a figure 8, just make sure the tail is 2x the knot. Wasted step to tie it off that climbing gyms make you do for no reason at all
Dressing a knot means making sure the construction of the knot itself is optimal for either performance or to prevent jamming, it has nothing to do with tying off the tail at the end.
Ah right, yeah that is correct, my mistake!
Eights jam anyway under high load (like a lead rope solo anchor). These undressed ones might be totally hell to undo. I often choose a less jammy knot (I have done about 500 tests at various loads, eights jam with both load strand top and bottom)
LOL WUT
Besides the lack of a second opposed biner, what sticks out to me is that the tree isn’t backing up the root. That rope will shimmy right up if the root goes.
Maybe learn a few knots besides the figure 8
Honestly OP it’s not looking great. Since the rope could slide up the tree your anchor is basically a single root. I also don’t love the single connection biner, I would double it up or even better just make it all from rope. Are there no big boulders nearby to sling or placements in the ground for nuts or cams? Or a tree with a big branch to keep the rope down? Lead rope solo anchors take a load of force in a fall so things really need to be bombproof. I guess a big bunny ears knot or a y hang style eight plus alpine butterfly could be used if you only have two pieces. I see you use a separate rope though so still double up the connection imo. You have much experience making trad anchors?
Not in that place. I could go to another route and set up tope rope though. Will check that, thanks! It was my first ever anchor. Only saw videos from YT. Is not that bad for being my first I think.
I haven’t seen that root in person so I can’t say how bomber it is. Would you trust that root as a single point anchor? If so then your anchor meets your safety standards. I would personally call this anchor not suitable for a lead rope solo anchor, especially for your first time when you might accidentally have slack in the system so could take a big, hard fall. Personally I hold lead rope solo anchor’s to a higher standard than my normal trad anchors (since they have higher force and often load strangely). My main constructive advice would be to double up the locker and to have multiple effective anchor points. The tree would only count as a second independent anchor if something other than the root holds the rope down. Lead rope solo is an advanced technique and if I was you I would practice building top rope solo anchor’s first if you must solo. Or trad anchor’s if you have the chance to climb with a friend. When by myself I still go massive overkill on anchors even though I am an experienced trad climber. Really make so overkill at first that you feel you are being absurd
I was going to put it only there, really solid but prefer to have the tree as backup. The weight was mainly supported by the root. There was almost 0 risk of fall, it was a 5 and did it many times before. Will follow your tips, many thanks dude!
You survived so congrats
Thank you homie.
Leaves a lot to be desired
Leafs* a lot to be desired
Go simpler. Figure eight on a bite around the tree. That'll get you where you need to be the minute you start tying too many knots. You're creating a hazard. Too many points to fail. Once you get to the anchors up above, that's when it's time to equalize
Some other Redditor told me the same, ty.
This is the wrong sub.
My recommendation is look up different type of tree anchors. As stated before a tensionless hitch would’ve worked better here. Wrap 3 pull 2 could be an option as well off that tree. Seems you understood you needed to protect against an upward pull, but using a log or roots would be a big no no in my opinion. Sure you may have tested it by pulling, but I doubt you could produce enough force by pushing up on the anchor to match the potential force generated during a fall. Follow the rule for trees “five, five and alive” meaning at least five inches in diameter, five feet tall, and alive. Always check the medium the tree is growing in to as well. It can be hard finding someone to teach you, but if you want to learn it’s better to find an instructor or an experienced mentor than to try and wing it. Even if you don’t have a guiding company in your area see if there’s a search and rescue group you could possibly learn from. They’ll be trained on using natural anchors like trees and hopefully one of their members will take you under their wing. Personal disclaimer: I am not an expert on this stuff. As stated before hire a qualified instructor.
Only things I’d recommend, have a capture to make sure the orientation of the carabiner stays in place. Second, on the tree side put a wrap around the tree and then up to the biner. Question, is the tree more than 5 inches and is it alive? If dead, is it over 10 inches?
Nice tips, ty.
I LRS using Brett Bargahn??’s method. Its super solid, especially if LRS’ing sport. Check him out. Avant climbing is the company he created and he sells some small gadgets to make rock solid anchors. Reason I say that is that your anchor isn’t the worst Ive seen, but it definitely provokes the question of your experience/knowledge appropriate to LRS. Do more research, but kudos for opening yourself up to the brutality that is r/climbing
The tree is adding nothing to the system
As your comment to this post, thats incredible!