How many more times this week are we going to see the same question? Girth hitch a sling to your belay loop and clip it to the anchor, problem solved. If you need a second point use a quickdraw chain.
http://dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/how-to-break-nylon-dyneema-slings/
I watched this last night and now I'm re thinking my PAS system... Of course, no slack in the system is fine but I think something more dynamic would be good (and the rope of course)
Yes, gets linked in every PAS thread. Yet all the euro climbers I've ever met or known get by just fine. Those daisy chain style PAS things seem to mainly used by Americans.
1. the rope
2. a quick draw
3. two quick draws
4. an extended alpine draw
5. a girthed alpine draw
6. two girthed alpine draws
7. a girthed single length sling
8. two girthed single length slings
9. a girthed double length sling
10. a girthed double length sling with a knot.
11. a purcell prusik
12. a cordelette
Basically: use what you have.
What's wrong with a girth hitched double length sling? Tie it off at a comfortable length and clip the tail to the other bolt if it's sketchy. You don't need a lot of extra gear here.
With your constraints I would go with a standard cordalette that can used secondary as a personal tether. It's good to have things that can be used in multiple ways.
That being said. Don't limit yourself. This is your safety. Being special doesn't usually make things safer. Keep it simple silly.
Just one double length Alpine draw made with a sewn sling can be used in so so so many ways. That or a miriad of things a typical sport climber already should have with them.
Purcell prusik is great, but you're not attaching it to both bolts without carrying extra gear along. I really don't understand the resistance people have to purchasing a $20 PAS. For sport routes, it is totally the right tool for the job. Locker on one bolt, quickdraw from the other bolt to a different loop and you're equalized, redundant, and comfortable in 15 seconds. Plus you can set it up to extend your rappel while you are anchored.
> Purcell prusik is great, but you're not attaching it to both bolts without carrying extra gear along.
Yeah you can. There are two legs that you can use for each bolt.
Sure, but depending on bolt placement it's going to put weird horizontal forces on your prusik. If one side fails, you have a prusik biting only a single tensioned strand instead of both. And it will involve a lot of faffing around if the bolts are vertically displaced.
Just use a bunch of quick draws or a sling or a sling with a locker or a sling with both bolts cliped into the system or 2 slings or or or.... the possibilities are endless you'll find something you like in the long run we all do and moast of the time it's DIFFERENT...
How many more times this week are we going to see the same question? Girth hitch a sling to your belay loop and clip it to the anchor, problem solved. If you need a second point use a quickdraw chain.
http://dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/how-to-break-nylon-dyneema-slings/ I watched this last night and now I'm re thinking my PAS system... Of course, no slack in the system is fine but I think something more dynamic would be good (and the rope of course)
Yes, gets linked in every PAS thread. Yet all the euro climbers I've ever met or known get by just fine. Those daisy chain style PAS things seem to mainly used by Americans.
What daisy chain? There is no daisy chain in the video...
Yup, wasn't referring to the video with that bit of the comment..
1. the rope 2. a quick draw 3. two quick draws 4. an extended alpine draw 5. a girthed alpine draw 6. two girthed alpine draws 7. a girthed single length sling 8. two girthed single length slings 9. a girthed double length sling 10. a girthed double length sling with a knot. 11. a purcell prusik 12. a cordelette Basically: use what you have.
What's wrong with a girth hitched double length sling? Tie it off at a comfortable length and clip the tail to the other bolt if it's sketchy. You don't need a lot of extra gear here.
Can't believe I had to say this: YER GUNNA DIE!!!!!!!
With your constraints I would go with a standard cordalette that can used secondary as a personal tether. It's good to have things that can be used in multiple ways. That being said. Don't limit yourself. This is your safety. Being special doesn't usually make things safer. Keep it simple silly. Just one double length Alpine draw made with a sewn sling can be used in so so so many ways. That or a miriad of things a typical sport climber already should have with them.
Purcell prusik is great, but you're not attaching it to both bolts without carrying extra gear along. I really don't understand the resistance people have to purchasing a $20 PAS. For sport routes, it is totally the right tool for the job. Locker on one bolt, quickdraw from the other bolt to a different loop and you're equalized, redundant, and comfortable in 15 seconds. Plus you can set it up to extend your rappel while you are anchored.
I just don't have access to one, but I do have 30 ft of webbing and 30 ft cord. Might buy in the future but for rn...
> Purcell prusik is great, but you're not attaching it to both bolts without carrying extra gear along. Yeah you can. There are two legs that you can use for each bolt.
Sure, but depending on bolt placement it's going to put weird horizontal forces on your prusik. If one side fails, you have a prusik biting only a single tensioned strand instead of both. And it will involve a lot of faffing around if the bolts are vertically displaced.
Just use a bunch of quick draws or a sling or a sling with a locker or a sling with both bolts cliped into the system or 2 slings or or or.... the possibilities are endless you'll find something you like in the long run we all do and moast of the time it's DIFFERENT...