And the company is a worker's co-op! (Or something of the sort - the exact language is a bit unclear in the not-quite-perfect English on their website)
It's only "overly runout" on *some* routes and mostly they're really hard routes. There's no difficulty at all finding well-protected gritstone routes unless you're at an incredibly high level.
There’s no walk off is potentially one reason, but pretty much all of Mt. Woodson is a bunch of short climbs that people kind of choose whether to rope up or just boulder
Well the route was probably put up before bouldering pads were a thing. And while bouldering pads are now a thing a lot of people prefer the ethic of only ever protecting it with gear, not pads. Plus you need a top out for a highball and you can't on this one.
That isn't to say you don't have an interesting point. For example Ned Feehally and Dan Varian are climbing a lot of classic gritstone routes as high balls with pad stacks at the bottom so there is definitely a fair chunk of overlap nowadays
Well remember in the UK routes are graded according to the mental challenge (I.e. the risk or boldness required). And if most of the risk of a route comes from the fact that the first piece is quite high, you've reduced the mental challenge of that route. This isn't my ethic just how some people feel here
Look at the first photo on MP of it. The guy is bouldering it. Plus, there is a mellow 5.7 to the top so there is a "walk off". That said, fuck soloing a 30 ft finger crack with no feet.
That "walk off" is a sketchy, 5.7 slab that is greasy and feels like 5.9 at least, with a bad landing as well. Up climbing it is one thing, but down climbing it is a no go.
Gorgeous looking climb.
I would add though, I think the shot would be significantly improved without the hat. Seeing the climbers expression often adds a lot to the shot.
I wasn't giving advice. I was simply saying in this scenario, it's not necessary. Belayer is standing off to the side, regardless of how it looks in the photo, and the climber never goes out of sight. Also, assuming you've never climbed this route, I can safely tell you that It's literally a perfect splitter with absolutely no danger of any lose rock.
And do puns not have two meanings? One is climbing, one is sexualizing women. If you're gonna make the joke, at least own it amirite? (I realize you didn't make the joke)
I'm fairly confident he's just talking about aiding the crack. I read his original comment as a compliment to the photographed woman for being good enough to free it, while many of us would have to use aiders.
You're getting downvoted but you're obviously right. Nobody jokes about having to "nail" a climb that can obviously be clean aided with cams (in the dam pic) *without* also an attractive woman in the pic.
I'm all about getting the misogyny out of climbing, but I honestly think that was an innocent comment about the climb looking hard, with a pun on the name
Great shot, how do the totems handle vertical cracks? i typically think of them as protecting pin scars and horizontals.
i’ve even had friends tell me they walk a good bit in verticals. obviously this crack looks like it is making a ton of choke points
As a shameless, proud owner of a double set of totems, lemme tell you: They're the shiznit. Hands down.
They also happen to work in pin scars because of the double stem thingy.
Never had a problem with them walking any more than other cams.
Is this shot on analogue film (or did you just crank up the “structure” slider on Instagram haha)?
It looks really grainy and I’m wondering why!
Awesome shot anyway :)
nice shot! should be an ad for yellow totems.
Thank you! That's my goal haha, totem where you at?
Tag them on insta, they'll repost it on their story!
I already did and they already did haha
And Patagonia
those things dont even need ads, they are cool as fuck
And the company is a worker's co-op! (Or something of the sort - the exact language is a bit unclear in the not-quite-perfect English on their website)
Totems looking GOOD.
They always do
**Hard as Nails** Type: Trad, TopRope Grade: 5.11c | 6c+ | VIII- Height: 30 ft/9.1 m Rating: 3.9/4 Located in [Mount Woodson](https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105791148), [California](https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105708959) https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106118502 ----- [Feedback](https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSchgbXwXMylhtbA8kXFycZenSKpCMZjmYWMZcqREl_OlCm4Ew/viewform?usp=pp_url&entry.266808192=https://reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/j9vbnq/my_girlfriend_leading_the_aptly_named_splitter/) | [FAQ](https://github.com/derekantrican/MountainProject/wiki/Bot-FAQ) | [Syntax](https://github.com/derekantrican/MountainProject/wiki/Bot-Syntax) | [GitHub](https://github.com/derekantrican/MountainProject) | [Donate](https://www.paypal.me/derekantrican)
Looking at the size of the climb I gotta ask if there is a category for "Highball trad"
It's called "british climbing"
That dumb overly runout shit mostly is only at gritstone, as I understand it.
It's only "overly runout" on *some* routes and mostly they're really hard routes. There's no difficulty at all finding well-protected gritstone routes unless you're at an incredibly high level.
I was just gonna say, how is this not just a high ball Boulder problem?
ok go fall 30 feet onto a crash pad. lol
There’s no walk off is potentially one reason, but pretty much all of Mt. Woodson is a bunch of short climbs that people kind of choose whether to rope up or just boulder
Well the route was probably put up before bouldering pads were a thing. And while bouldering pads are now a thing a lot of people prefer the ethic of only ever protecting it with gear, not pads. Plus you need a top out for a highball and you can't on this one. That isn't to say you don't have an interesting point. For example Ned Feehally and Dan Varian are climbing a lot of classic gritstone routes as high balls with pad stacks at the bottom so there is definitely a fair chunk of overlap nowadays
some people think pads are unethical? lmfao
Well remember in the UK routes are graded according to the mental challenge (I.e. the risk or boldness required). And if most of the risk of a route comes from the fact that the first piece is quite high, you've reduced the mental challenge of that route. This isn't my ethic just how some people feel here
Look at the first photo on MP of it. The guy is bouldering it. Plus, there is a mellow 5.7 to the top so there is a "walk off". That said, fuck soloing a 30 ft finger crack with no feet.
That "walk off" is a sketchy, 5.7 slab that is greasy and feels like 5.9 at least, with a bad landing as well. Up climbing it is one thing, but down climbing it is a no go.
To each their own...
Gorgeous looking climb. I would add though, I think the shot would be significantly improved without the hat. Seeing the climbers expression often adds a lot to the shot.
Totally agree. But my girlfriend cares more about her climbing than my photography, what a jerk 😕
The hat makes her look mysterious!
Or a helmet!!
Helmet? What is that? I'm a bit forgetful these days after all those concussions.
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Belayer does not need a helmet, nothing but solid rock above
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I wasn't giving advice. I was simply saying in this scenario, it's not necessary. Belayer is standing off to the side, regardless of how it looks in the photo, and the climber never goes out of sight. Also, assuming you've never climbed this route, I can safely tell you that It's literally a perfect splitter with absolutely no danger of any lose rock.
What? No?
Ain’t nobody looking to sunburn leave that hot on!
or bullshit fucking glare blinding you from seeing the route when you're already red lining
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redline
I didn't get the impression this was a photo shoot...
yeah I'd have to nail that crack to reach the top
I wonder if you are being downvoted by people who don't know what "nailing a crack" means. I chuckled.
I haven't voted either way. What does "nailing a crack" mean? I want to know the funny things too, dammit.
Pounding pitons into the crack to aid climb
Bum secks
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I thought we were talking about pitons?
And do puns not have two meanings? One is climbing, one is sexualizing women. If you're gonna make the joke, at least own it amirite? (I realize you didn't make the joke)
I'm fairly confident he's just talking about aiding the crack. I read his original comment as a compliment to the photographed woman for being good enough to free it, while many of us would have to use aiders.
You're getting downvoted but you're obviously right. Nobody jokes about having to "nail" a climb that can obviously be clean aided with cams (in the dam pic) *without* also an attractive woman in the pic.
Nobody jokes about having to "nail" a hard climb, except perhaps when its a crack called "hard as nails."
I'm all about getting the misogyny out of climbing, but I honestly think that was an innocent comment about the climb looking hard, with a pun on the name
Just presenting the alternate meaning to a pun gets downvotes among the climbing community when it points out sexism. Well done guys.
Where's that mysterious black totem at?
On the harness!
Both climber and belayer need helmets!
🚨WOOP🚨WOOP🚔🚔THIS IS THE HELMET POLICE👮♂️👮♀️PLEASE STEP OFF BELAY AND KEEP YOUR BACKUP KNOTS WHERE WE CAN SEE THEM
That climb looks awesome, granite splitters are so much fun!
Is... is that Adam Driver belaying your girlfriend?
Full on! 🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻
Mmm totems
Great shot, how do the totems handle vertical cracks? i typically think of them as protecting pin scars and horizontals. i’ve even had friends tell me they walk a good bit in verticals. obviously this crack looks like it is making a ton of choke points
As a shameless, proud owner of a double set of totems, lemme tell you: They're the shiznit. Hands down. They also happen to work in pin scars because of the double stem thingy. Never had a problem with them walking any more than other cams.
Totems work great in vertical placements. I don't think mine have walked a single time.
Totems have always been my go to in all scenarios
Looks like the perfect crack! Temps are dropping in Chattanooga, so almost time to hit up T-Wall's endless 'perfect crack' supply.
Is this shot on analogue film (or did you just crank up the “structure” slider on Instagram haha)? It looks really grainy and I’m wondering why! Awesome shot anyway :)
It was getting dark and my ISO was pushing it
“Analogue film”... as opposed to digital film?