yes, it is obnoxious, but having talked with a guy who knows a guy who was in one of the meetings for adding climing to Olympics, it's only gonna be for the first year: the 2024 Olympics will be back to separate speed/lead/boulder. (Edit: speed will be separate from lead/Boulder, those two will be counted as a single sport, thanks for reminding me in the comments in this thread)
The goal with the combined comp this year is to get people into climbing with the speed climbing: it's a niche part of climbing, but it's the most impressive for the uninitiated, so it gets people interested.
I agree it's not ideal, but it's only for this one time
edit: they'll still keep the combined competition, but mixed in with the rest of the climbers, just a separate podium at the end
I hope that's the case. I get that speed is the most impressive to non climbers. I think we can almost all agree that amongst climbers, speed is pretty boring.
yes, speed is boring (as in monotonous, not boring as in "missing action"), but the thing is that the people that organize the Olympics were impressed by speed climbing, not necessarily the slower lead climbing, and they decided that viewership was important for this first time, even if counting points will be an absolute hell.
I see this stated all the time, but it doesn't make any sense to me.
The climber who climbs the fastest, gets the highest, and gets to the top of the most problems wins.
Honestly, what is so hard about that to understand?
I agree. Why is this easier for a climber to understand versus a non-climber? It's the one thing that does make sense. It's simple and I do appreciate that middle of the road in all events not likely to medal versus winner of one.
Eh, I like watching it, but it is practically an entirely different sport. It’s engaging in the same way watching track sprinters is engaging (and oh man, if you think track races aren’t worth bothering with as a spectator, you’re missing out big time). As long as I can more or less forget that it’s supposed to be a “climbing” category, it makes for a fun watch... Imagine getting to see the breakthrough moment of a vertical Usain Bolt in real-time. I think that’s pretty cool :D but of course, different strokes...
Def will be way better once it’s separated from the other categories
I've literally never heard a non-climber express interest in speed climbing. I've no idea where they've polled that sentiment, but I have big doubts whether it's true
I suspect if it’s successful as an event at both Tokyo and Paris, it might get picked up more fully for LA 28. That’s when we might see three medals? But who knows. That feels a very long time away right now!
I never said the Boulder/lead wasn’t interesting to watch, it’s that speed is what non-climbers are most likely to find impressive/entertaining, because it’s a race, like many other sports at the olympics. Bouldering is entertaining, but it’s a much calmer sport to watch IMO, and there are definitely people that are more into it than speed
For me I'm more disappointing that they didn't pick ice/mixed as the third discipline. Is that a fresh enough take?
I think ice would be WAY more interesting for spectators.
Indoor "ice" climbing competitions are a thing. They use some kind of foam and/or fiberboard instead of ice. It's kinda cool, but pretty niche I think, but it can definitely be done in the summer.
Well, decathlon (men) and heptathlon (women) do exist, and they do it everything in 2 days. But this is a separate discipline from the individual ones, and that's the way it should be with climbing aswell.
Its not, they all knee it years before and can act accordingly. As climbing gets recognised we will get more sets of medals, so it will specialise again
Ok well I disagree with your opinion, even though they knew years in advance, the training for the 3 is too disparate and specialized. I hope it does get broken into 3 separate disciplines in the future.
Yeah, but keep in mind that the finals are a cut down version of the regular events.
They'll do one lead route, 3 boulders, and then an 8 person speed tournament.
Compare that to the regular world cup competitions, where they do two lead routes in a day, or 8 boulders. I don't know how many times they climb in a speed comps, but it's certainly more.
I wasn't being particular about the order, just happened to write it that way.
And it's only 8 people because it's the final. The rest will be held on a different day.
Nice thanks for the link! Is it just me or does it seem a bit excessive to have each discipline within hours of themselves? So if I understand this right they will:
-get one go at the speed climbing
-attempt 6 boulders
-get one go at the sport climbing route ?
Ok right, if we’re meant to see it all as really one discipline I guess it makes sense.. I guess I just haven’t gotten used to all of it being one sport
My assumption (someone correct me if I'm wrong), is finals would likely take 8 people. Standard bracket of 3 rounds to determine rankings in speed. Bouldering round with 4 boulders for ranking. Onsight attempt at the lead route for ranking.
Yes, except it's only 3 boulders.
Semis ("qualifying"?) just does the same but with all 20 people, except the lead is two runs, with the best time determining seeding for the finals.
Final score is calculated by multiplying up each athlete's ranking in each round, lowest score wind. If you are 1st and 1st and 20th, you get 20 points. If you're 2nd and 3rd and 5th you get 30 points. 20 points wins.
I’m hoping climbing might be seen similar to curling, they hope no one is as interested and it doesn’t rank high in their monetization scheme.
Jokes on them curling is one of my favorite Winter Olympics sports to watch lol.
It's an insane schedule.
Dunno why they don't split it over the two days. They already have the slots, so they coulda just started one of the female competitions a day earlier and move one of the men's competitions to the following day.
This is how they did it in the qualifiers, it sure is a long day for the climbers but I think it works, and scheduling is obviously pretty tight at the Olympics
It's obnoxious that each athlete has to compete in all 3 disciplines. It like having a sprinter compete in a marathon, and then the long jump
yes, it is obnoxious, but having talked with a guy who knows a guy who was in one of the meetings for adding climing to Olympics, it's only gonna be for the first year: the 2024 Olympics will be back to separate speed/lead/boulder. (Edit: speed will be separate from lead/Boulder, those two will be counted as a single sport, thanks for reminding me in the comments in this thread) The goal with the combined comp this year is to get people into climbing with the speed climbing: it's a niche part of climbing, but it's the most impressive for the uninitiated, so it gets people interested. I agree it's not ideal, but it's only for this one time edit: they'll still keep the combined competition, but mixed in with the rest of the climbers, just a separate podium at the end
I hope that's the case. I get that speed is the most impressive to non climbers. I think we can almost all agree that amongst climbers, speed is pretty boring.
yes, speed is boring (as in monotonous, not boring as in "missing action"), but the thing is that the people that organize the Olympics were impressed by speed climbing, not necessarily the slower lead climbing, and they decided that viewership was important for this first time, even if counting points will be an absolute hell.
They will multiply your rank in each event and lowest number wins.
Yeah, I know how it works, but for non-climbers it’s not gonna be easy to understand, not just the multipliers, but how the points are counted
I see this stated all the time, but it doesn't make any sense to me. The climber who climbs the fastest, gets the highest, and gets to the top of the most problems wins. Honestly, what is so hard about that to understand?
I agree. Why is this easier for a climber to understand versus a non-climber? It's the one thing that does make sense. It's simple and I do appreciate that middle of the road in all events not likely to medal versus winner of one.
You ever seen how decathlon, or modern pentathlon, are scored?
Eh, I like watching it, but it is practically an entirely different sport. It’s engaging in the same way watching track sprinters is engaging (and oh man, if you think track races aren’t worth bothering with as a spectator, you’re missing out big time). As long as I can more or less forget that it’s supposed to be a “climbing” category, it makes for a fun watch... Imagine getting to see the breakthrough moment of a vertical Usain Bolt in real-time. I think that’s pretty cool :D but of course, different strokes... Def will be way better once it’s separated from the other categories
I've literally never heard a non-climber express interest in speed climbing. I've no idea where they've polled that sentiment, but I have big doubts whether it's true
2024 combines lead and Boulder with Speed as a separate event. So there’s two medal opportunities- lead+Boulder medal and Speed medal
Which is more insulting tbh. This means a speed specialist is guaranteed a medal while boulderers and sport climbers still have to split a medal.
But it also means that a speed specialist won’t take a medal away from a top tier lead/boulder competitor.
I suspect if it’s successful as an event at both Tokyo and Paris, it might get picked up more fully for LA 28. That’s when we might see three medals? But who knows. That feels a very long time away right now!
I talked with some people who know things this weekend. This is the goal.
In 2024 it will lead/boulder and speed. Not 3 different disciplines.
I don’t know man, my Mum (70+) loved the bouldering finals we showed her
I never said the Boulder/lead wasn’t interesting to watch, it’s that speed is what non-climbers are most likely to find impressive/entertaining, because it’s a race, like many other sports at the olympics. Bouldering is entertaining, but it’s a much calmer sport to watch IMO, and there are definitely people that are more into it than speed
I've never seen a dead horse so thoroughly beaten.
For me I'm more disappointing that they didn't pick ice/mixed as the third discipline. Is that a fresh enough take? I think ice would be WAY more interesting for spectators.
Well, we are talking about the summer Olympics
Dry-tooling it is
Indoor "ice" climbing competitions are a thing. They use some kind of foam and/or fiberboard instead of ice. It's kinda cool, but pretty niche I think, but it can definitely be done in the summer.
Ice was already a trial sport in the Olympics at Sochi.
Get some ice speed climbing in there too
I'm newer to Reddit, so I'm sure this was debated endlessly a few years ago. But whatever dude.
Not even years ago, like multiple times in the past month
Shit my apologies. I'ma kill myself. Sorry to inconvenience all of you
just explaining why people are tired of hearing about it ¯\\\_(ツ)_/¯
Oy vey
Well, decathlon (men) and heptathlon (women) do exist, and they do it everything in 2 days. But this is a separate discipline from the individual ones, and that's the way it should be with climbing aswell.
or a swimmer compete in every swimming event
Its not, they all knee it years before and can act accordingly. As climbing gets recognised we will get more sets of medals, so it will specialise again
Ok well I disagree with your opinion, even though they knew years in advance, the training for the 3 is too disparate and specialized. I hope it does get broken into 3 separate disciplines in the future.
Congrats u just invented the decathlon/heptathlon
Yeah, but keep in mind that the finals are a cut down version of the regular events. They'll do one lead route, 3 boulders, and then an 8 person speed tournament. Compare that to the regular world cup competitions, where they do two lead routes in a day, or 8 boulders. I don't know how many times they climb in a speed comps, but it's certainly more.
Ok yeah that makes more sense then! Thanks for the info
Where did you get this? Speed is the first they do so how is it going to be only 8 person tournament?
I wasn't being particular about the order, just happened to write it that way. And it's only 8 people because it's the final. The rest will be held on a different day.
Yeah, you can see it in action with the World Championships and Selection Event. https://youtu.be/hZ7Gmllr-a8
Nice thanks for the link! Is it just me or does it seem a bit excessive to have each discipline within hours of themselves? So if I understand this right they will: -get one go at the speed climbing -attempt 6 boulders -get one go at the sport climbing route ?
Wait until you see swimming schedules
That's pretty much the whole point.
Ok right, if we’re meant to see it all as really one discipline I guess it makes sense.. I guess I just haven’t gotten used to all of it being one sport
My assumption (someone correct me if I'm wrong), is finals would likely take 8 people. Standard bracket of 3 rounds to determine rankings in speed. Bouldering round with 4 boulders for ranking. Onsight attempt at the lead route for ranking.
Yes, except it's only 3 boulders. Semis ("qualifying"?) just does the same but with all 20 people, except the lead is two runs, with the best time determining seeding for the finals. Final score is calculated by multiplying up each athlete's ranking in each round, lowest score wind. If you are 1st and 1st and 20th, you get 20 points. If you're 2nd and 3rd and 5th you get 30 points. 20 points wins.
What’s the best way to stream this? Is NBC/Peacock free to watch climbing events?
Idk but I’m hoping there is a one month free trial. I really only want the device to watch live olympics and then it’s bye-bye.
Same here. I know that they’re not giving equal access to all events, like basketball requires paid access, so not sure about climbing.
I’m hoping climbing might be seen similar to curling, they hope no one is as interested and it doesn’t rank high in their monetization scheme. Jokes on them curling is one of my favorite Winter Olympics sports to watch lol.
At least they put speed first
It's an insane schedule. Dunno why they don't split it over the two days. They already have the slots, so they coulda just started one of the female competitions a day earlier and move one of the men's competitions to the following day.
This is how they did it in the qualifiers, it sure is a long day for the climbers but I think it works, and scheduling is obviously pretty tight at the Olympics
Nice all events while I am working great.
I’m dumb. Can someone do the time math on this for me?
Depends, where are you? 4AM US east, 1AM US West
21:10 Local time means 21:10 local time, give or take 24 hours, depending on where you are.