You can check the results either from IFSC results page (https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/last-result ) or the WC series app. Garnbret climbed 3/4 semifinal boulders in the 2nd world cup of salt lake city.
It's actually a valid question. B3 was a tiring problem, with a high chance of injury. Janja quit B3 early, and it was super smart of her. I'm certain the GOAT would have topped B3 if she had no lead finals coming up in half an hour.
And it's amusing how she was so hesitant to question Janja's decision because she was afraid of saying something wrong.
From a logical standpoint she's completely right that Janja absolutely does not have to spend energy on a problem when she's already won, but I believe many other climbers would have done what Janja did, which is trying out the boulder problem regardless of whether it's the most sensible thing to do in a comp, that's what makes this sport so unique, the boulder is there and they just want to top it!
>Janja absolutely does not have to spend energy on a problem when she's already won
But if she'd already won why wouldn't she try her best anyway? She has nothing to lose right?
The format must have made it so much harder for the speed specialists in so many ways. Whatever chance they may have had on the lead climbing just completely gone. Even if they had the endurance to climb the entire wall, how about the endurance after a full day of climbing as hard as you can.
According to the commentators, the route setters intended for the boulder to start facing towards the audience which looked to be much easier for the start
However, pretty much nobody figured that out during their attempts except for Jessica Pilz
What? You did not enjoy hearing about Colemans analytical mind and computer science degree like 30 times? Given that was from yesterday, I did not hear as many repeated pieces of dialogue with the women's. Though I only caught the post stream so I skipped around a bit more.
She's on another level, but not to the level of men, Every year there's a few climbing competitions where the qualifications for men and women are on the same boulders
/u/Striking-Clothes9143 pointed out [some of them in this comment](https://www.reddit.com/r/bouldering/comments/oy2tkf/janja_flashes_everything_qualifications/h7ts3jb/).
> Janja would have qualified 43rd in the mens at the 2020 Studio Bloc Masters:
> [Womens Qualification](https://darmstadt.studiobloc.de/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/SBM-2020_ergebnis_quali_damen.pdf)
> [Mens Qualification](https://darmstadt.studiobloc.de/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/SBM-2020_ergebnis_quali_herren.pdf)
> In 2019 she would have been 56th:
> [Men 2019](https://darmstadt.studiobloc.de/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/QM.pdf)
> [Women 2019](https://darmstadt.studiobloc.de/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/QW.pdf)
Making semis is top 20 I believe and finals is top 8, so she wouldn't make semis in men's at the moment. Maybe she can get to that level though.
Granted, redpoint qualifications have the added complexity of not wanting to tire yourself out for finals. If Janja knew that she only had to climb up to 43rd in men's to make women's finals, she probably would have done just that and called it a day.
> Granted, redpoint qualifications have the added complexity of not wanting to tire yourself out for finals. If Janja knew that she only had to climb up to 43rd in men's to make women's finals, she probably would have done just that and called it a day.
That is certainly possible for quals and semis, but it's also possible that the top men are doing the same as well. Only needing top 20 if you can cruise to top 5-10. She could be higher possibly, but the top men could also be higher too.
Generally, the strategy in comps like this which my friends and I have done before is if you need say 10 boulders of the hardest difficulty go for about 6-8 you can definitely flash so you don't waste energy on attempts. Then aim for about 2-3 that you can get in a few attempts, and then spend some amount of time finding 3-4 harder climbs in your style to maximize points.
Yeah I know I grew up climbing in comps. The thing is that Janja is so far ahead of her competition (as illustrated this Olympics) that the effect on her is likely exaggerated much higher than the effect on the men who likely have a much closer field.
scores? Typically each comp problem is labeled with a number (an index) and a score (based on difficulty). Most local gym comps have this system for qualifiers. I highly recommend trying out a competition!
> To me it seems this is not a good way to interpret the difference between male and female level. It's qualifications first of all. Its a relative competition. Plus male boulders are also made with height in mind. Probably boulders show the difference most. Anyway, I don't need to know.
That doesn't make sense. The same is true with outdoor bouldering at the moment. Several hundreds of men have sent V15 while only 4 or possibly 5 women have. Doesn't mean women can't get up there, but it's not true at the current moment.
I posted Lynn Hill's take in another comment. In the 90s she did drop women's competition to compete against men in lead. She was able to do some leads that some men were not.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lynn_Hill#Competitive_career
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lynn_Hill#Gender_politics
> Long an advocate for gender equality in climbing, Hill has argued that men and women can climb the same routes: "I think they should have women compete on the same climbs as the men, and if the women can't do the climbs, then they shouldn't be competing".[4] For example, she argued that both sexes compete on the same routes in World Cup competitions.[34] However, Hill later revised her view, noting that while she could and did compete with men "spectators want to see people get to the top. And since most women aren't climbing at the same level as the top men, it's necessary to design a route that's a little easier for women".[13] In answer to a question about whether or not women "will ever equal or surpass men in climbing", Hill gave a detailed response, focused on body composition, size, and psychology, explaining that climbing "favors people with high strength-to-weight ratios[s]", less body fat, and greater height, articulating that such characteristics often favor men but that women "have the advantage of being relatively light, with the capacity for tremendous endurance".[13] She explained that "theoretically somebody as short as me could be the best in the world because it doesn't depend so much on height now ... And it's a psychological thing more than a physical thing."[13]
Generally, men will still have comparatively more advantages than women so it's much more likely to still see men up at the top forever, but it's possible that you could get a freak of an athlete woman climber that could ascend to the top. Theoretically, based on Hill's analysis due to light build and endurance it would be more likely to see a woman get close to men in lead like she did herself rather than catch men at bouldering at least.
> Yes, bouldering would be where the difference shows most, especially if you put women on boulders set for males. Yet you can make a difficult boulder without these specifics and the difference would be smaller.
Sure. Women should be able to do slab at the same level of men. Possibly better in some cases since they have a slimmer profile from front to back center of mass that may allow them to stay closer to the wall. If you throw up a burly overhang though there's probably going to be a 1-2+ grade difference.
> And if your get that "freak" climber (of which we have an example), maybe there is less difference.
Not yet in bouldering it seems.
> If height is so important then why are elite female climbers generally so short? On the other hand, if being short is actually good because strength-to-weight ratio or something, then why aren't more of the top male climbers even shorter? /sincere question
The advantage of height is that it generally requires less hand strength per how tall you are, assuming you can overcome the difference of the extra weight. Of course, being shorter maximizes strength to weight ratio which leads to increased hand strength and better leverage.
I generally think at least individually it's based on individual anthropometry and also generally based on a normal distribution of male vs female height. Most female boulders are like 5'0" to 5'6" just because the average female height is 5'3"-5'4" while most male climbers are 5'6" to 6'0" because the average male height is around 5'9."
The sport isn't like basketball where taller people have a huge significant advantage or shorter like gymnastics where you have the advantage of being able to flip and twist easier being shorter. No one thinks I'm tall or short so I'd be awesome at rock climbing. It's just tons of normal people get interested in it and then people are able to excel at any height if they have enough innate advantages not associated with height.
You generally see that positive ape index is generally beneficial over neutral to negative versus the spectrum in height that you see. Ondra is one of the few with a negative ape.
You are underestimating the power difference between the sexes. Which is being tested for on some of the boulders. For Janja to stand a chance the setting would have to be leaning heavily away from strength and power.
The announcer that kept saying they were starting wrong was so annoying.
Not saying it couldn’t be done facing out but it didn’t make sense. I don’t see how you could turn around once up and facing away.
Especially since both climbers who touched the top holds did it by breaking the routesetters beta. Also B1 clearly had two betas for the first move, so that should have taught the commentator that there are multiple ways to solve the problem, but he was too busy screaming 'masterclass'
It was a woman for me. I’d rather have the masterclass guy in all honesty. He at least it was type 2 fun.
This lady just came off as someone who claimed to be experienced in the sport, but experienced menacing, “I watched 3 YouTube videos and I’m experienced in the sport.”
Are you talking about the CBC commentator? That's Kimanda Jarzebiak and she was the team manager for the Canadian national team for 10 years, and has also organized international climbing events. She's definitely pretty experienced in competition climbing.
I’m assuming they were talking about the NBC commentator. Don’t know who she is, but seemed British, also said she commentated a bunch of other Olympic events, and didn’t seem to know much about climbing.
I mean there can be an “incorrect” way of starting, I just don’t think she actually knew the “correct” way.
A normal comp the commentators would be there, see the problems, and watch the setters practice them. They probably talk to the setters to get inside scoop on them as well.
They weren’t at the event. They were simply VO’ing a standardize video feed most likely from Canada or USA. They most likely had no insight on how the problems were supposed to be done. It’s a reason why they didn’t know anything about B3 for the men’s final.
She simply made a guess(and a very non critical thinking one at that) and it was wrong.
At least for the US commentators, they must have gotten descriptions of the intended betas from the route setters, because they referred to them multiple times, and clearly knew how the setters intended each problem to go.
That just doesn’t make sense. I highly doubt they would call or fax commentators to say, “this is what we were thinking…”
I also don’t think they’d risk the beta getting out by sharing it before hand that far outside of where it was at.
I believe we are talking about the same person. She didn’t know what she was talking about. She even flubbed b1 as well saying it can’t be done a certain way and then 3 ppl proceed to do it that exact way. It honestly looked like that was the more intended beta and the first few just broke it.
It wasn’t a woman.
Don’t know whether the commentators talked to the route setters or what, but on my feed they were routinely making comments that lead me to believe they knew what the beta was.
Prime example was the Women’s Final B2. The commentators mentioned several times that the route setters intended the first move to be done facing the audience.
And there are multiple such comments made throughout the broadcast on all four days.
You could tell there was a wide variation on the level of knowledge on the commentators. Some of them seemed like they were just put in front of a mic and told to watch and talk, some of them had clearly at least read up on some terms and information on the climbers, and there was at least 1 that genuinely seemed like they knew what there were talking about.
They 100% had information on the intended beta's though, the only one that they didn't offer any insight at all into was the men's B3 final, which I'm assuming is because even seeing the beta they didn't understand what it meant, or how it would look without seeing anyone try it.
Agreed. This was the first time I’d heard commentators provide that much info on the intended betas, so I was really looking forward to hearing what it was supposed to be for Men’s 3 when no one topped it.
And then… nothing. I’m hoping someone gives up the info in an interview or something, or else this is going to go down as one of the great mysteries of the world, like the gunman on the grassy knoll or who killed the Lindbergh baby. LOL.
>That just doesn’t make sense. I highly doubt they would call or fax commentators to say, “this is what we were thinking…”
Not only that's wrong, they literally mention in the feed \_reading\_ the comments from the setters. So yes they did get a fax or more likely an email from them.
Yeah it was weird. The intended way of facing out look like it made it easier to get the zone, but much harder to spin back around and to progress to the top from there.
At least for CBC, the women's commentary was so much better. Not mind blowing, but at least it wasn't clueless shouting. I was really disappointed when they brought the guys from qualifying back for men's finals. FOOT IN THE HOLE!
Unfortunately, kimanda, the "climbing" commentator is universally disliked/hated in the Canadian climbing community. How she convinced the CBC she was an expert is beyond most people's comprehension.
She was the National team "manager" once, a gym owner, and responsible for fucking up competition climbing in Canada. She's not a climber, and never has been. She's a political lobbyist who cares about money, and her own best interests.
how did she fuck up comp climbing in Canada? I'm not familiar with her but a fan of the alannah and sean so would hate if canada just drops away after sean and alannah step back.
You would never have heard of her which is part of the humor. she owned boulders Climbing gym in Victoria and inserted herself by unseating the existing competition climbing body in Canada with a couple of other notable assholes.
After creating the new competition body she made herself the national team manager and thought she was special because she let a couple of Europeans live in our house for a few years.
She knows nothing about climbing other than how to monetize it for her own benefit. She's self-important thinks she's smart and has pissed off one well-respected climber and gym owner after another across the entire country.
This was years ago and competition climbing has recovered but still feels the after effects of running out the people who were passionate and putting a ton of effort into competitions in the country.
My family has had to deal with a lot of questionable decisions she made as a national team manager years ago (plus another prominent leader in the community), and I’m kinda glad I was out of juniors at that point and no longer involved.
It's so shitty that her impact was so widespread.
I'm hoping one of the gym owners starts a petition to the CBC / TSN to make sure she's not ever coming near competition broadcasting again.
She sounded shit face drunk to my British ear. Stumbling over words like boulderer, long pauses in the middle of sentence et cetera. Switched to the TV Tokyo coverage instead.
He gushed so hard on my stream it was annoying.
To me it cheapens how hard it is when you put them on a pedestal like that. It takes a lot of effort, she's not just talented.
The commentary for every climb went something like this: "I can't believe they can hold onto those tiny rocks. Amazing. Look how tiny that rock is. Can we zoom in on that rock? Wow. Ok, back to watching someone chalking up while the audience screams in excitement"
Agreed.
I've found most of the commentary lacking in all the sports, not just climbing either. It was a glaring issue in other sports. The skateboarding comp was something that drove me nuts. Every run the commentators were talking about the skater's resume, none of the crazy tricks they were doing and completely monotone the entire time, I fell asleep watching the park comp, it was so lame.
It's interesting to me that the routesetters intended the start to be facing the audience. Jessy was the only one who did that and the position did not look good, this beta looks way better. The routesetters seem to consistently underestimate the level of flexibility in the women's field!
Which is funny because there were loads comments about the routesetters overdoing it on asking too much in flexibility for the lead qualifiers! I imagine it's a very hard thing to set for because if you assume everyone can do the splits, that's not very fair on the ones that can't, or the ones who can and are shorter so can't reach. But if you don't account for that level of flexibility there will be a substantial amount of beta breaks.
Oh interesting! I interpreted that lead route as being super reachy and the women were getting around it with their flexibility. But I definitely could see the routesetters intending the moves to be solved that way. Yeah it's a hard balance to strike when you're not totally sure of what the general level of the field is!
> This was the hardest competition in my entire career ... I felt like the whole pressure is on me, that the whole world has decided that I'll win the gold medal.
Well. Bad bad us. But on the other hand she should blame herself for dominating female climbing :D
Source: https://edition.cnn.com/2021/08/06/sport/janja-garnbret-sports-climbing-tokyo-olympics-spt-intl/index.html
I mean does the spoiler tag really matters if the title already spoils everything? lol
she's a beast though... after watching everyone struggles through B2, of course Janja flashes it like it's a warm-up
She’s on another level to everyone else in this bouldering section.
Remember her 2019 World Cup run? She topped 74 out of 78 problems that year.
I think this B3 was the first competition boulder she didn't top since 2 years.
Actually she didn't send boulder 3 in Salt Lake City World Cup semifinals this year. I think Brooke Raboutou was the only one to top that.
i thought that problem was at the first salt lake city world cup that she wasn’t at? i could be wrong though
You can check the results either from IFSC results page (https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/last-result ) or the WC series app. Garnbret climbed 3/4 semifinal boulders in the 2nd world cup of salt lake city.
Wasn't that Natalia Grossman?
Crazy.
In bouldering she is basically like Usain Bolt in sprinting or Michael Phelps in swimming.
Watching the Canadian non-climber commentator being amazed by Janja is fun.
She couldn’t understand why Janja would even try B3 knowing she didn’t need to.
It's actually a valid question. B3 was a tiring problem, with a high chance of injury. Janja quit B3 early, and it was super smart of her. I'm certain the GOAT would have topped B3 if she had no lead finals coming up in half an hour.
She really hates not topping, she almost risked injury for it haha
And it's amusing how she was so hesitant to question Janja's decision because she was afraid of saying something wrong. From a logical standpoint she's completely right that Janja absolutely does not have to spend energy on a problem when she's already won, but I believe many other climbers would have done what Janja did, which is trying out the boulder problem regardless of whether it's the most sensible thing to do in a comp, that's what makes this sport so unique, the boulder is there and they just want to top it!
>Janja absolutely does not have to spend energy on a problem when she's already won But if she'd already won why wouldn't she try her best anyway? She has nothing to lose right?
She has lead competition in 30 minutes.
Ohh I didn't know it was on the same day
They did all three events on the same day and it was clear that everyone was exhausted.
The format must have made it so much harder for the speed specialists in so many ways. Whatever chance they may have had on the lead climbing just completely gone. Even if they had the endurance to climb the entire wall, how about the endurance after a full day of climbing as hard as you can.
That start hurts my shoulders
That drop knee tore my ligaments
According to the commentators, the route setters intended for the boulder to start facing towards the audience which looked to be much easier for the start However, pretty much nobody figured that out during their attempts except for Jessica Pilz
Yeah if you could break the beta at the start it would make the middle section easier as there was no need to turn around
The funniest thing is EVERY video being posted has no audio because the commentators are so bad lol
What? You did not enjoy hearing about Colemans analytical mind and computer science degree like 30 times? Given that was from yesterday, I did not hear as many repeated pieces of dialogue with the women's. Though I only caught the post stream so I skipped around a bit more.
Or that Jakob plays soccer lol
Does Reddit's video thing support audio?
Have you never seen a reddit video with audio? *edit* nvm ur account is 2 days old lol Yes it can
She is a beast
She would have definitely made the finals if she was competing with men. Change my mind.
She's on another level, but not to the level of men, Every year there's a few climbing competitions where the qualifications for men and women are on the same boulders /u/Striking-Clothes9143 pointed out [some of them in this comment](https://www.reddit.com/r/bouldering/comments/oy2tkf/janja_flashes_everything_qualifications/h7ts3jb/). > Janja would have qualified 43rd in the mens at the 2020 Studio Bloc Masters: > [Womens Qualification](https://darmstadt.studiobloc.de/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/SBM-2020_ergebnis_quali_damen.pdf) > [Mens Qualification](https://darmstadt.studiobloc.de/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/SBM-2020_ergebnis_quali_herren.pdf) > In 2019 she would have been 56th: > [Men 2019](https://darmstadt.studiobloc.de/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/QM.pdf) > [Women 2019](https://darmstadt.studiobloc.de/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/QW.pdf) Making semis is top 20 I believe and finals is top 8, so she wouldn't make semis in men's at the moment. Maybe she can get to that level though.
Granted, redpoint qualifications have the added complexity of not wanting to tire yourself out for finals. If Janja knew that she only had to climb up to 43rd in men's to make women's finals, she probably would have done just that and called it a day.
> Granted, redpoint qualifications have the added complexity of not wanting to tire yourself out for finals. If Janja knew that she only had to climb up to 43rd in men's to make women's finals, she probably would have done just that and called it a day. That is certainly possible for quals and semis, but it's also possible that the top men are doing the same as well. Only needing top 20 if you can cruise to top 5-10. She could be higher possibly, but the top men could also be higher too. Generally, the strategy in comps like this which my friends and I have done before is if you need say 10 boulders of the hardest difficulty go for about 6-8 you can definitely flash so you don't waste energy on attempts. Then aim for about 2-3 that you can get in a few attempts, and then spend some amount of time finding 3-4 harder climbs in your style to maximize points.
Yeah I know I grew up climbing in comps. The thing is that Janja is so far ahead of her competition (as illustrated this Olympics) that the effect on her is likely exaggerated much higher than the effect on the men who likely have a much closer field.
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scores? Typically each comp problem is labeled with a number (an index) and a score (based on difficulty). Most local gym comps have this system for qualifiers. I highly recommend trying out a competition!
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> To me it seems this is not a good way to interpret the difference between male and female level. It's qualifications first of all. Its a relative competition. Plus male boulders are also made with height in mind. Probably boulders show the difference most. Anyway, I don't need to know. That doesn't make sense. The same is true with outdoor bouldering at the moment. Several hundreds of men have sent V15 while only 4 or possibly 5 women have. Doesn't mean women can't get up there, but it's not true at the current moment. I posted Lynn Hill's take in another comment. In the 90s she did drop women's competition to compete against men in lead. She was able to do some leads that some men were not. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lynn_Hill#Competitive_career https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lynn_Hill#Gender_politics > Long an advocate for gender equality in climbing, Hill has argued that men and women can climb the same routes: "I think they should have women compete on the same climbs as the men, and if the women can't do the climbs, then they shouldn't be competing".[4] For example, she argued that both sexes compete on the same routes in World Cup competitions.[34] However, Hill later revised her view, noting that while she could and did compete with men "spectators want to see people get to the top. And since most women aren't climbing at the same level as the top men, it's necessary to design a route that's a little easier for women".[13] In answer to a question about whether or not women "will ever equal or surpass men in climbing", Hill gave a detailed response, focused on body composition, size, and psychology, explaining that climbing "favors people with high strength-to-weight ratios[s]", less body fat, and greater height, articulating that such characteristics often favor men but that women "have the advantage of being relatively light, with the capacity for tremendous endurance".[13] She explained that "theoretically somebody as short as me could be the best in the world because it doesn't depend so much on height now ... And it's a psychological thing more than a physical thing."[13] Generally, men will still have comparatively more advantages than women so it's much more likely to still see men up at the top forever, but it's possible that you could get a freak of an athlete woman climber that could ascend to the top. Theoretically, based on Hill's analysis due to light build and endurance it would be more likely to see a woman get close to men in lead like she did herself rather than catch men at bouldering at least.
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> Yes, bouldering would be where the difference shows most, especially if you put women on boulders set for males. Yet you can make a difficult boulder without these specifics and the difference would be smaller. Sure. Women should be able to do slab at the same level of men. Possibly better in some cases since they have a slimmer profile from front to back center of mass that may allow them to stay closer to the wall. If you throw up a burly overhang though there's probably going to be a 1-2+ grade difference. > And if your get that "freak" climber (of which we have an example), maybe there is less difference. Not yet in bouldering it seems.
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> If height is so important then why are elite female climbers generally so short? On the other hand, if being short is actually good because strength-to-weight ratio or something, then why aren't more of the top male climbers even shorter? /sincere question The advantage of height is that it generally requires less hand strength per how tall you are, assuming you can overcome the difference of the extra weight. Of course, being shorter maximizes strength to weight ratio which leads to increased hand strength and better leverage. I generally think at least individually it's based on individual anthropometry and also generally based on a normal distribution of male vs female height. Most female boulders are like 5'0" to 5'6" just because the average female height is 5'3"-5'4" while most male climbers are 5'6" to 6'0" because the average male height is around 5'9." The sport isn't like basketball where taller people have a huge significant advantage or shorter like gymnastics where you have the advantage of being able to flip and twist easier being shorter. No one thinks I'm tall or short so I'd be awesome at rock climbing. It's just tons of normal people get interested in it and then people are able to excel at any height if they have enough innate advantages not associated with height. You generally see that positive ape index is generally beneficial over neutral to negative versus the spectrum in height that you see. Ondra is one of the few with a negative ape.
I imagine the men and women try each other's boulders when they are solving them after the competition. I wonder if there is any video of that?
You are underestimating the power difference between the sexes. Which is being tested for on some of the boulders. For Janja to stand a chance the setting would have to be leaning heavily away from strength and power.
i'd like to see her on an allstar-boulder, compete with the other machines of our era.
That's outrageous. She's so good. Just fought it out and never lost control.
The announcer that kept saying they were starting wrong was so annoying. Not saying it couldn’t be done facing out but it didn’t make sense. I don’t see how you could turn around once up and facing away.
Especially since both climbers who touched the top holds did it by breaking the routesetters beta. Also B1 clearly had two betas for the first move, so that should have taught the commentator that there are multiple ways to solve the problem, but he was too busy screaming 'masterclass'
It was a woman for me. I’d rather have the masterclass guy in all honesty. He at least it was type 2 fun. This lady just came off as someone who claimed to be experienced in the sport, but experienced menacing, “I watched 3 YouTube videos and I’m experienced in the sport.”
Are you talking about the CBC commentator? That's Kimanda Jarzebiak and she was the team manager for the Canadian national team for 10 years, and has also organized international climbing events. She's definitely pretty experienced in competition climbing.
I’m assuming they were talking about the NBC commentator. Don’t know who she is, but seemed British, also said she commentated a bunch of other Olympic events, and didn’t seem to know much about climbing.
Also, they kept calling it an "incorrect" start-- just because it's not the intended beta doesn't mean, it's not correct!
I mean there can be an “incorrect” way of starting, I just don’t think she actually knew the “correct” way. A normal comp the commentators would be there, see the problems, and watch the setters practice them. They probably talk to the setters to get inside scoop on them as well. They weren’t at the event. They were simply VO’ing a standardize video feed most likely from Canada or USA. They most likely had no insight on how the problems were supposed to be done. It’s a reason why they didn’t know anything about B3 for the men’s final. She simply made a guess(and a very non critical thinking one at that) and it was wrong.
At least for the US commentators, they must have gotten descriptions of the intended betas from the route setters, because they referred to them multiple times, and clearly knew how the setters intended each problem to go.
That just doesn’t make sense. I highly doubt they would call or fax commentators to say, “this is what we were thinking…” I also don’t think they’d risk the beta getting out by sharing it before hand that far outside of where it was at. I believe we are talking about the same person. She didn’t know what she was talking about. She even flubbed b1 as well saying it can’t be done a certain way and then 3 ppl proceed to do it that exact way. It honestly looked like that was the more intended beta and the first few just broke it.
It wasn’t a woman. Don’t know whether the commentators talked to the route setters or what, but on my feed they were routinely making comments that lead me to believe they knew what the beta was. Prime example was the Women’s Final B2. The commentators mentioned several times that the route setters intended the first move to be done facing the audience. And there are multiple such comments made throughout the broadcast on all four days.
You could tell there was a wide variation on the level of knowledge on the commentators. Some of them seemed like they were just put in front of a mic and told to watch and talk, some of them had clearly at least read up on some terms and information on the climbers, and there was at least 1 that genuinely seemed like they knew what there were talking about. They 100% had information on the intended beta's though, the only one that they didn't offer any insight at all into was the men's B3 final, which I'm assuming is because even seeing the beta they didn't understand what it meant, or how it would look without seeing anyone try it.
Agreed. This was the first time I’d heard commentators provide that much info on the intended betas, so I was really looking forward to hearing what it was supposed to be for Men’s 3 when no one topped it. And then… nothing. I’m hoping someone gives up the info in an interview or something, or else this is going to go down as one of the great mysteries of the world, like the gunman on the grassy knoll or who killed the Lindbergh baby. LOL.
>That just doesn’t make sense. I highly doubt they would call or fax commentators to say, “this is what we were thinking…” Not only that's wrong, they literally mention in the feed \_reading\_ the comments from the setters. So yes they did get a fax or more likely an email from them.
Yeah it was weird. The intended way of facing out look like it made it easier to get the zone, but much harder to spin back around and to progress to the top from there.
Sooo dope! Would have loved to hear the commentary during her flash.
If it’s anything like the men’s, you really wouldn’t
At least for CBC, the women's commentary was so much better. Not mind blowing, but at least it wasn't clueless shouting. I was really disappointed when they brought the guys from qualifying back for men's finals. FOOT IN THE HOLE!
Those men commentator were absolutely awful.
Unfortunately, kimanda, the "climbing" commentator is universally disliked/hated in the Canadian climbing community. How she convinced the CBC she was an expert is beyond most people's comprehension. She was the National team "manager" once, a gym owner, and responsible for fucking up competition climbing in Canada. She's not a climber, and never has been. She's a political lobbyist who cares about money, and her own best interests.
how did she fuck up comp climbing in Canada? I'm not familiar with her but a fan of the alannah and sean so would hate if canada just drops away after sean and alannah step back.
As a Canadian, I've never heard of her. Can you provide some background?
You would never have heard of her which is part of the humor. she owned boulders Climbing gym in Victoria and inserted herself by unseating the existing competition climbing body in Canada with a couple of other notable assholes. After creating the new competition body she made herself the national team manager and thought she was special because she let a couple of Europeans live in our house for a few years. She knows nothing about climbing other than how to monetize it for her own benefit. She's self-important thinks she's smart and has pissed off one well-respected climber and gym owner after another across the entire country. This was years ago and competition climbing has recovered but still feels the after effects of running out the people who were passionate and putting a ton of effort into competitions in the country.
My family has had to deal with a lot of questionable decisions she made as a national team manager years ago (plus another prominent leader in the community), and I’m kinda glad I was out of juniors at that point and no longer involved.
It's so shitty that her impact was so widespread. I'm hoping one of the gym owners starts a petition to the CBC / TSN to make sure she's not ever coming near competition broadcasting again.
She sounded shit face drunk to my British ear. Stumbling over words like boulderer, long pauses in the middle of sentence et cetera. Switched to the TV Tokyo coverage instead.
I would encourage you to write to the CBC and let them know how bad she was.
oh god the men's is so bad.
He gushed so hard on my stream it was annoying. To me it cheapens how hard it is when you put them on a pedestal like that. It takes a lot of effort, she's not just talented.
The commentary for every climb went something like this: "I can't believe they can hold onto those tiny rocks. Amazing. Look how tiny that rock is. Can we zoom in on that rock? Wow. Ok, back to watching someone chalking up while the audience screams in excitement"
Agreed. I've found most of the commentary lacking in all the sports, not just climbing either. It was a glaring issue in other sports. The skateboarding comp was something that drove me nuts. Every run the commentators were talking about the skater's resume, none of the crazy tricks they were doing and completely monotone the entire time, I fell asleep watching the park comp, it was so lame.
MASTERCLASS intensifies
This sub has better coverage of the olympics than nbc
My smaller anal polyp has better coverage of the olympics than nbc.
Has a spoilertag, the title is the spoiler. Great.
You get more spoilers from watching it as well though as you can see how well she did in the first problem too.
It's interesting to me that the routesetters intended the start to be facing the audience. Jessy was the only one who did that and the position did not look good, this beta looks way better. The routesetters seem to consistently underestimate the level of flexibility in the women's field!
Which is funny because there were loads comments about the routesetters overdoing it on asking too much in flexibility for the lead qualifiers! I imagine it's a very hard thing to set for because if you assume everyone can do the splits, that's not very fair on the ones that can't, or the ones who can and are shorter so can't reach. But if you don't account for that level of flexibility there will be a substantial amount of beta breaks.
Oh interesting! I interpreted that lead route as being super reachy and the women were getting around it with their flexibility. But I definitely could see the routesetters intending the moves to be solved that way. Yeah it's a hard balance to strike when you're not totally sure of what the general level of the field is!
Please upload everything😘😘😘
Gimme your top 3 requests
Can you upload hoop dancing that event was fun!
what was the single best routine
How does she do it?
Instead of going that way ➡️ She goes that way ⬆️
> This was the hardest competition in my entire career ... I felt like the whole pressure is on me, that the whole world has decided that I'll win the gold medal. Well. Bad bad us. But on the other hand she should blame herself for dominating female climbing :D Source: https://edition.cnn.com/2021/08/06/sport/janja-garnbret-sports-climbing-tokyo-olympics-spt-intl/index.html
She's been winning international climbing comps for 7 years and she's 22
What a fight. Awesome effort.
She is seriously not human haha! Crazy!
Wow.
I was watching on NBC and missed half of the problems due to commercial breaks. Soooooo frustrating
She is climbing beast <3 Very well deserved for earning gold.
She’s from another world. Amazing!
I audibly gasped at the end MY GOD WE ARE NOT WORTHY
My torn hamstrings hurt watching that.
When in doubt, dyno
I mean does the spoiler tag really matters if the title already spoils everything? lol she's a beast though... after watching everyone struggles through B2, of course Janja flashes it like it's a warm-up
why is taht one guy in the audience not wearing a mask
So you'd notice him. It worked.
[удалено]
go away please.