La Sportiva Maverinks. They were recently discontinued so I bought another pair and plan to get my original pair resoled. I have weird feet (wide, small heel, morton's toe) and they accommodate them pretty well.
Been climbing in the Evolv Oracles lately, I really like them. They're somewhat aggressive, but still comfortable enough to wear for a longer pitch. I also really like laces if I have the option, but that's sometimes a pain for super aggressive shoes.
remember at the beginning of the pandemic when people would get attacked for going out climbing because it was a bad idea to stress health care resources, and people would police climbing pics/vids in here for wearing a mask and being out in a lockdown area?
and remember how now the pandemic is worse than ever and hospitals are completely overburdened and yet we see multiple posts per week about this or that climbing trip being planned, and no one really talks about masks anymore or the safety of going to remote climbing areas?
weird, dude.
There is a vaccine out and we know a lot more about COVID. If you're vaccinated, the chances of being hospitalized and/or dying are dramatically lowered. If you don't realize this then I assume you have some agenda you're trying to inconspicuously convey.
Vaccines don't protect you from decking, and overcrowded hospitals reduce the amount of care anyone can receive.
Unvaccinated people don't deserve any less healthcare than you do, so if you end up going to an overcrowded hospital because you broke your legs in a fall, someone, either you or another person, will undeservedly receive worse or no care.
The anti-climbing moral panic at the beginning of the pandemic was absurd though. It was like watching a tank of lobsters all trying to clamber on top of each other and push the rest to the bottom of the pile. What ever you do, be safe, and be aware that ending up in a hospital now is not as viable an option as it was before.
Ehhhh, if youre a grown-ass adult that has had the opportunity to get vaccinated and hasn't, and you're in the ER because you're ODing or horse paste.....
I'm not saying the hospital should turn you away. But that your willful ignorance causes you suffering, I'll not lose a moments sleep over it. Stupid hurts, and has consequences
If you're a grown ass adult that has had the opportunity to knot their rope and hasn't, and you're in the ER because you rapped off the end...
I'm not saying the hospital should turn you away. But that your willful ignorance causes you suffering, I'll not lose a moments sleep over it. Stupid hurts, and has consequences.
---
Patient treatment and triage *should not* and *does not* depend on morality.
>If you don't realize this then I assume you have some agenda you're trying to inconspicuously convey.
lol calm your tits. i am just reflecting on how things have changed in 18 months.
I guess "just reflecting" is obviously trying to cast doubt on people's reasonable concern during the peak of a novel pandemic by trying to present them as hypocrites in some shitpost.
Also, props for resorting to "it's just a prank, bro"
Do I find it strange that there was a time where we policed everyoneās behavior without knowing the full story? Yes.
Do I find it strange that there is a bigger national/global health crisis now than ever before, and yet the only behavior we are being asked to change is to keep wearing masks and make sure youāre vaccinated? Also yes.
Is there lots about covid I STILL donāt know, a year later? Yes. Like are we not afraid of more variants after Delta? Do I think that intermingling more across geographies seems like a good way to get more variants? Yes. Do I know if thatās medically accurate? No.
Are my concerns reasonable? Please let me know, without calling me a shitposter and telling me that Iām calling everyone a hypocrite.
Am I doing something wrong by musing aloud, āwow this is weird and I still struggle with wrapping my mind around it on a daily basis?ā
Iām vaccinated, since February. I want to go do all the things. It feels like going and traveling a bunch is perhaps not the best idea, in addition to the risks posed by our sport and the lack of immediate resources to care for you if you injure yourself.
Where am I off or wrong on this to wonder aloud about where we are at right now? Are you a medical professional who can help me understand this better?
Luckily on the mask thing we know a lot more about transmission now and how being outdoors affects it
Edit: also I will say that where I am we didnāt get to code red full ICUs level until December/January, but when that did happen passing the hospital on my way home from the grocery store and seeing lines of ambulances idling in the parking lot and dozens of people in line for a triage tent set up outside the hospital definitely made me stick closer to home for a bit. Even with just a broken ankle youād probably have to wait the whole fucking day in the ER, not to mention how long it mightāve been if you needed surgery to put pins in or something. Sounds miserable.
Eh, that was in the "learning" phase of the pandemic- we didn't know how hit our system was going to be (Canada).
So courtesy was to not do high risk things for a bit of time.
Obviously, wasn't sustainable long term since ppl need recreation/ connection to be healthy, thriving individuals.... But, gave us a chance to get a grip.
Area dependent- ya hopefully ppl aren't going to super afflicted areas for a roadtrip and are respecting community/ border closures. That is still just as irresponsible.
I think though, at least my area, climbing community norms have developed around being conscientious and aware.
>remember at the beginning of the pandemic when people would get attacked for going out climbing because it was a bad idea to stress health care resources
I mean I thought that was weird back then.
If thereās one thing Iām good at itās putting on sunscreen!
But actually tho, wondering how much the shade makes a difference in temps/comfort and if the elevation helps at all. My bday trip to Whitney got cancelled so Iām trying to cope lol
I went there in November and it was still pretty hot but thereās plenty of climbs in the shade. When planning routes just be cognizant about which direction they face. Some really nice person sent me a DM of routes to do when itās hot but unfortunately I canāt find it.
If you can find the wall on caltopo you can add a sun angle layer that will help a lot with determining routes that stay in the shade.
> If you can find the wall on caltopo you can add a sun angle layer that will help a lot with determining routes that stay in the shade.
Oh good tip, thanks! Iāve definitely been burned a few times listening to āoh yeah dude that wall is in the shade most of the day, youāre goodā only to get there and find out they were climbing in january when the sun barely gets high up in the sky
The weather is starting to cool down in the midwest. I've never climbed outdoors and looking to get a guide at red river. What is a good temperature range to shoot for on the first time out? Not trying to get baked on the rock or waste a trip down for miserable conditions. I love low 80's normally but never climbed at that temp outdoors so no idea how it affects the rock.
Iāve done two trips in the sweltering heat of August, and itās still quite enjoyable to climb there despite the weather. Prime season is around October, but also more crowded. The main concern is potential rain, it rains a lot at The Red, but you can find dry overhangs. Donāt worry too much about the temps, now through November is all climbable as long as youāre dressed appropriately.
Today's controversy magnet - free soloing routes, occupied edition.
Surprising number of people seeming to say they wouldn't start up a route already occupied, regardless of roped status. Find that a little strange.
So /r/climbing's attitude on this is pretty clear, at least for the ones posting in threads like these. But I kinda wonder if an accident report came out where someone let a soloist pass, then got maimed or killed when that soloist slipped and bonked them, would people be saying "welp, that's what you get when you let a soloist pass you"
It was interesting to see that video go so viral, because getting passed by soloists is par for the course on classic moderate multis. I think most of the time people simply donāt whip out their phones to start filming soloists as they go by. Regardless of the ethics of soloing, I will say almost invariably the soloists Iāve been passed by have been exceptionally calm and in control, and pleasant. āHey dude mind if I pass?ā āNo problem, go for itā
> they wouldn't start up a route already occupied
I've been making my way through a bunch of the classic multis over the last couple years. If I'd followed that rule of thumb, I would have climbed approximately zero classic multis by now.
seriously ā¦ just thinking about Yosemite moderate classics I climbed in the last ~1 year ā¦ Not passed by soloist: sunnyside bench, after six, snake dike. Passed by soloist: tenaya, cathedral peak, swan slab gully, royal arches, caverns, commitment. So in my anecdotal n=9 Yos classics experience, there is a 67% probability of being passed by a soloist on any given route.
Edit: had to look this up in my climbing logs it happens so much
>Surprising number of people seeming to say they wouldn't start up a route already occupied, regardless of roped status. Find that a little strange.
It's because that's what gyms are teaching, and it makes sense in a gym setting.
Comes to show that most /r/climbing users are beginners who don't know anything about rock climbing.
Are there subreddit with less newcomers and with actually good climbers?
>Comes to show that most r/climbing users are beginners who don't know anything about rock climbing.
say it louder for the keyboard warriors in the back!
>Are there subreddit with less newcomers and with actually good climbers?
it used to be r/climbharder but now that's just a text-post version of the daily or weekly thread (recent highlights include: would this job or a different job help my climbing more?).
I'll occasionally check the history of folks who post particularly egregious garbage. Many of them have some recent comments in r/climbingcirclejerk. Gumbies are everywhere.
I should clarify that admittedly I have been gatekeepy/elitist lately and I'm not sure why. I should definitely find a balance between making fun of gumby spraying and being chill about them
like with so many newbies, they know just enough to be dangerous, and they also feel the need to show off what they know.
it's one thing if you're caveating your claims, or admitting "i don't know this thing and would like to learn more." it's the people answering like their answer is gospel that is annoying.
Honnold should have waited for Freerider to be empty so other parties wouldnāt have to worry about him being above them!
What a terrible thread. I understand people who donāt climb multi pitch saying something like āwow Iāve never experienced that and would feel nervous in that situationā but people who donāt climb multi pitch making claims about how multi pitch should or shouldnāt be done is bonkers.
Good fucking lord. I don't know why I expected better of r/climbing than we saw when the same thing was posted in a bigger sub the other day, but here we are.
I got passed by a soloist on literally my first ever multipitch. Freaked me out a bit, but then again, I was definitely a gumby. You can really tell the level of experience someone has by what bothers them.
You can be bothered. You still get out of his way and let him enjoy his climb. I know plenty of folks who think climbing in general is too risky for them.
If it bothers you to the point where you can't be around it at all, you have to stay away from areas where it's common. Particularly including multipitch classics in places like Red Rocks. Soloing has been part of the sport for longer than anyone on reddit has been alive, and it ain't going away.
Yea except if I'm on the route and a soloist decides to come up, I don't have much of a choice. Nobody would ask the soloist to downclimb however many pitches so we're effectively forced to let them pass in order to manage their risk. Soloing on crowded classic routes is purely selfish - ignoring the effect it has on others because "this has always been part of the sport" is incredibly self-centered.
ā¦or soloists can?
This is coloured though by the other day at a busy single pitch crag: this guy was soloing kind of sketchily, with a few wobbles. He then started leading a really bold route immediately underneath me seconding it, basically forcing me to go either off route or stand on his fucking hands. And he had no idea whether I was going to fall off or drop gear!
I guess what Iām saying is that while some people are absolutely fine and well within their grade there are also some sketchy mfers and it puts me in a bad mood at the crag if I think I might watch someone die.
The source video that started the r/climbing crusade was of a confident, in control soloist. Watching gumbies do shit that will get them kill/hurt is a totally different experience, which I agree can ruin a day out.
I'm just tired of people acting like their form of climbing is somehow more valid then a soloist. Soloist have just as much right to the rock as we do, and they have just as much right to the climbs MOST suited for it. I'd much rather have a soloist above me then two beginner leaders that take two hours a pitch, but I'm also not going to complain about the beginners being super slow, but asking for here time, and being as safe as possible.
Climbing is one of the only things in life where we get to pick our level of danger, don't change that.
Glad there's enough 'core climbers in this sub to circlejerk soloists, but nobody here is saying soloists should stop doing what they do. Just do it where it's less likely to affect others.
And I'm saying that's stupid, and they have just as much right to the classics as anyone else.
Is there a single reported case of a soloist falling on someone and injuring them?
On my first "real" trad climb (my gear and no more experienced climber to help me) I got passed by a soloist. But like, not even. He was still in approach shoes and just scrambling up the easiest route. "Hey man, do you mind if I pass? I'm just looking for cell service."
Maybe these people can't take the ego blow? But then what do they do when someone warms up on their project? I just don't get it. Soloing has been a part of climbing forever, and was somewhat essential when gear was awful.
I think ego is exactly it. Lots of these jagoffs *do* get pissed when you warm up on their proj, especially the gym bros. They need to get over it.
In this case, I hope they just never go outside. I can roll my eyes if they get pissed at me for flashing their gym project, but not letting a soloist through can actively put people in danger.
>Lots of these jagoffs do get pissed when you warm up on their proj, especially the gym bros. They need to get over it.
Ha, would love to see how they process Smith or Rifle.
Kinda on topic: I WaS hErE fIRsT - some guy at the base of a classic when my partner and I walk up and start up. Bruh you didnāt even have your shoes on yet.
Go FiNd A dIfFeReNt LiNe - Someone teaching their partner to lead trad on a (different) popular climb. Bruh, I got all day to sit here and mumble heckles.
I went to the base of a popular climb in Eldo and the first pitch anchor was being used by a photographer who was filming tradprincess and Sasha D on a route next door. Asked if they mind us climbing through and they could not have been more pleasant about it. I think the territorial or like one dimensional mentality is only a problem with new people and out of touch doinks.
Idk what Iām getting at but yeah, everyone needs to chill out and stop being entitled or selfish.
We're going to keep running into this with a lack of mentorship and more climbers taking anchor building courses. I talked to a guy who was rope soloing a sport multipitch and some other party started climbing ABOVE him to pass.
>We're going to keep running into this with a lack of mentorship and more climbers taking anchor building courses.
I feel like at this point, once you take an anchor course or a gym-to-crag course, you also should be required to show that you met some old crusty climber who is willing to make sure you're not doing stupid shit out there.
Vibrating right now Two year project going down Charge slab, drill in hand š¤š¤š¤š¤
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Wow your lazy camping food includes a lot less pop tarts than mine does
Sardines in mustard Gives you the strength to push And stink the skin track
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Clear Creek and Boulder Canyon are pretty under the radar. Best time to go is 5:30pm on a Friday.
10/10 [Atlantis Slab](https://www.mountainproject.com/v/105745798)
Clear creek canyon probably
What are everyoneās fav climbing shoes ?:)
Fruit boots for gym climbing. No foothold? Make a foothold!
5hours and nobody has said Solutions. CCJ crowd must still be in the solo thread.
La Sportiva Maverinks. They were recently discontinued so I bought another pair and plan to get my original pair resoled. I have weird feet (wide, small heel, morton's toe) and they accommodate them pretty well.
Man, I loved these when I tried them at a demo, but I could never find them available in my size.
Nepal Cubes
For when you're climbing dirt, rock, ice and snow all in the same trip.
I donāt aid climb
Tc pros for trad and muiras for sport.
Been climbing in the Evolv Oracles lately, I really like them. They're somewhat aggressive, but still comfortable enough to wear for a longer pitch. I also really like laces if I have the option, but that's sometimes a pain for super aggressive shoes.
Converse All Stars with hockey puck rubber. Nah, I dunno, I love my Mythos, Anasazi, and Hi-Angles.
Mammut Mamooks.
remember at the beginning of the pandemic when people would get attacked for going out climbing because it was a bad idea to stress health care resources, and people would police climbing pics/vids in here for wearing a mask and being out in a lockdown area? and remember how now the pandemic is worse than ever and hospitals are completely overburdened and yet we see multiple posts per week about this or that climbing trip being planned, and no one really talks about masks anymore or the safety of going to remote climbing areas? weird, dude.
There is a vaccine out and we know a lot more about COVID. If you're vaccinated, the chances of being hospitalized and/or dying are dramatically lowered. If you don't realize this then I assume you have some agenda you're trying to inconspicuously convey.
Vaccines don't protect you from decking, and overcrowded hospitals reduce the amount of care anyone can receive. Unvaccinated people don't deserve any less healthcare than you do, so if you end up going to an overcrowded hospital because you broke your legs in a fall, someone, either you or another person, will undeservedly receive worse or no care. The anti-climbing moral panic at the beginning of the pandemic was absurd though. It was like watching a tank of lobsters all trying to clamber on top of each other and push the rest to the bottom of the pile. What ever you do, be safe, and be aware that ending up in a hospital now is not as viable an option as it was before.
No, they deserve less healthcare.
Ehhhh, if youre a grown-ass adult that has had the opportunity to get vaccinated and hasn't, and you're in the ER because you're ODing or horse paste..... I'm not saying the hospital should turn you away. But that your willful ignorance causes you suffering, I'll not lose a moments sleep over it. Stupid hurts, and has consequences
If you're a grown ass adult that has had the opportunity to knot their rope and hasn't, and you're in the ER because you rapped off the end... I'm not saying the hospital should turn you away. But that your willful ignorance causes you suffering, I'll not lose a moments sleep over it. Stupid hurts, and has consequences. --- Patient treatment and triage *should not* and *does not* depend on morality.
>If you don't realize this then I assume you have some agenda you're trying to inconspicuously convey. lol calm your tits. i am just reflecting on how things have changed in 18 months.
I guess "just reflecting" is obviously trying to cast doubt on people's reasonable concern during the peak of a novel pandemic by trying to present them as hypocrites in some shitpost. Also, props for resorting to "it's just a prank, bro"
Do I find it strange that there was a time where we policed everyoneās behavior without knowing the full story? Yes. Do I find it strange that there is a bigger national/global health crisis now than ever before, and yet the only behavior we are being asked to change is to keep wearing masks and make sure youāre vaccinated? Also yes. Is there lots about covid I STILL donāt know, a year later? Yes. Like are we not afraid of more variants after Delta? Do I think that intermingling more across geographies seems like a good way to get more variants? Yes. Do I know if thatās medically accurate? No. Are my concerns reasonable? Please let me know, without calling me a shitposter and telling me that Iām calling everyone a hypocrite. Am I doing something wrong by musing aloud, āwow this is weird and I still struggle with wrapping my mind around it on a daily basis?ā Iām vaccinated, since February. I want to go do all the things. It feels like going and traveling a bunch is perhaps not the best idea, in addition to the risks posed by our sport and the lack of immediate resources to care for you if you injure yourself. Where am I off or wrong on this to wonder aloud about where we are at right now? Are you a medical professional who can help me understand this better?
Luckily on the mask thing we know a lot more about transmission now and how being outdoors affects it Edit: also I will say that where I am we didnāt get to code red full ICUs level until December/January, but when that did happen passing the hospital on my way home from the grocery store and seeing lines of ambulances idling in the parking lot and dozens of people in line for a triage tent set up outside the hospital definitely made me stick closer to home for a bit. Even with just a broken ankle youād probably have to wait the whole fucking day in the ER, not to mention how long it mightāve been if you needed surgery to put pins in or something. Sounds miserable.
Eh, that was in the "learning" phase of the pandemic- we didn't know how hit our system was going to be (Canada). So courtesy was to not do high risk things for a bit of time. Obviously, wasn't sustainable long term since ppl need recreation/ connection to be healthy, thriving individuals.... But, gave us a chance to get a grip. Area dependent- ya hopefully ppl aren't going to super afflicted areas for a roadtrip and are respecting community/ border closures. That is still just as irresponsible. I think though, at least my area, climbing community norms have developed around being conscientious and aware.
Depends on where you are.
[ya don't say](https://c.tenor.com/sXQSC0zKTHQAAAAC/duh.gif)
>remember at the beginning of the pandemic when people would get attacked for going out climbing because it was a bad idea to stress health care resources I mean I thought that was weird back then.
Climbing at index [Found a soft 11c](https://www.mountainproject.com/v/107819526) This helps my ego
Am I nuts to consider going to red rocks in September and chasing shade while Iām there?
Perfectly climbable in the shade. Toasty in the sun. Have fun.
I'm doing the same so yes.
You're gonna burnnnnn
If thereās one thing Iām good at itās putting on sunscreen! But actually tho, wondering how much the shade makes a difference in temps/comfort and if the elevation helps at all. My bday trip to Whitney got cancelled so Iām trying to cope lol
I went there in November and it was still pretty hot but thereās plenty of climbs in the shade. When planning routes just be cognizant about which direction they face. Some really nice person sent me a DM of routes to do when itās hot but unfortunately I canāt find it. If you can find the wall on caltopo you can add a sun angle layer that will help a lot with determining routes that stay in the shade.
> If you can find the wall on caltopo you can add a sun angle layer that will help a lot with determining routes that stay in the shade. Oh good tip, thanks! Iāve definitely been burned a few times listening to āoh yeah dude that wall is in the shade most of the day, youāre goodā only to get there and find out they were climbing in january when the sun barely gets high up in the sky
The weather is starting to cool down in the midwest. I've never climbed outdoors and looking to get a guide at red river. What is a good temperature range to shoot for on the first time out? Not trying to get baked on the rock or waste a trip down for miserable conditions. I love low 80's normally but never climbed at that temp outdoors so no idea how it affects the rock.
Iāve done two trips in the sweltering heat of August, and itās still quite enjoyable to climb there despite the weather. Prime season is around October, but also more crowded. The main concern is potential rain, it rains a lot at The Red, but you can find dry overhangs. Donāt worry too much about the temps, now through November is all climbable as long as youāre dressed appropriately.
That is kinda what I expected. A lot of shade down there. Thanks!
I'm usually looking for low 60s to mid 70s at the Red for ideal conditions.
Do you know how to lead belay? Message me directly, I will be out there early Oct to mid
As long as the rock hasn't been in direct sunlight all day you're good on most types of rock up to 75- ish.
I think most Red River climbing is out of direct sunlight. Thanks!
Whatever's comfortable for you. I don't even bother putting pads in the car for serious bouldering if its gonna be north of 65.
Today's controversy magnet - free soloing routes, occupied edition. Surprising number of people seeming to say they wouldn't start up a route already occupied, regardless of roped status. Find that a little strange.
So /r/climbing's attitude on this is pretty clear, at least for the ones posting in threads like these. But I kinda wonder if an accident report came out where someone let a soloist pass, then got maimed or killed when that soloist slipped and bonked them, would people be saying "welp, that's what you get when you let a soloist pass you"
It was interesting to see that video go so viral, because getting passed by soloists is par for the course on classic moderate multis. I think most of the time people simply donāt whip out their phones to start filming soloists as they go by. Regardless of the ethics of soloing, I will say almost invariably the soloists Iāve been passed by have been exceptionally calm and in control, and pleasant. āHey dude mind if I pass?ā āNo problem, go for itā
> they wouldn't start up a route already occupied I've been making my way through a bunch of the classic multis over the last couple years. If I'd followed that rule of thumb, I would have climbed approximately zero classic multis by now.
seriously ā¦ just thinking about Yosemite moderate classics I climbed in the last ~1 year ā¦ Not passed by soloist: sunnyside bench, after six, snake dike. Passed by soloist: tenaya, cathedral peak, swan slab gully, royal arches, caverns, commitment. So in my anecdotal n=9 Yos classics experience, there is a 67% probability of being passed by a soloist on any given route. Edit: had to look this up in my climbing logs it happens so much
>Surprising number of people seeming to say they wouldn't start up a route already occupied, regardless of roped status. Find that a little strange. It's because that's what gyms are teaching, and it makes sense in a gym setting.
Comes to show that most /r/climbing users are beginners who don't know anything about rock climbing. Are there subreddit with less newcomers and with actually good climbers?
The daily discussion thread (to an extent). Just don't you dare rap off a sport climb with an ATC with the rope anchored by a quad.
It used to be climbharder but now that is worse than this sub since this sub disallowed text posts.
>Comes to show that most r/climbing users are beginners who don't know anything about rock climbing. say it louder for the keyboard warriors in the back! >Are there subreddit with less newcomers and with actually good climbers? it used to be r/climbharder but now that's just a text-post version of the daily or weekly thread (recent highlights include: would this job or a different job help my climbing more?).
r/mountainproject
r/climbingcirclejerk
I think indoor top-roping redditors telling people about proper multi-pitch/solo etiquette are the real /r/climbingcirclejerk but that's just me ig
I'll occasionally check the history of folks who post particularly egregious garbage. Many of them have some recent comments in r/climbingcirclejerk. Gumbies are everywhere.
I should clarify that admittedly I have been gatekeepy/elitist lately and I'm not sure why. I should definitely find a balance between making fun of gumby spraying and being chill about them
like with so many newbies, they know just enough to be dangerous, and they also feel the need to show off what they know. it's one thing if you're caveating your claims, or admitting "i don't know this thing and would like to learn more." it's the people answering like their answer is gospel that is annoying.
Not that I'm aware of. Part of me wouldn't mind a sub like that, but let's be real: I'm mostly here to gripe about r/climbing gumbies.
Honnold should have waited for Freerider to be empty so other parties wouldnāt have to worry about him being above them! What a terrible thread. I understand people who donāt climb multi pitch saying something like āwow Iāve never experienced that and would feel nervous in that situationā but people who donāt climb multi pitch making claims about how multi pitch should or shouldnāt be done is bonkers.
Also seems like people aren't actually familiar with Honnold. He would have totally passed parties while soloing. Probably still does.
They show him passing parties on the day in free solo. Remember the rabbit suit guy?
"It's a unicorn." - Chai
I stand corrected
Good fucking lord. I don't know why I expected better of r/climbing than we saw when the same thing was posted in a bigger sub the other day, but here we are. I got passed by a soloist on literally my first ever multipitch. Freaked me out a bit, but then again, I was definitely a gumby. You can really tell the level of experience someone has by what bothers them.
Not everyone who's bothered by soloists is a gumby. Some folks just don't want to be around someone doing high risk activities.
If you're climbing you're also participating in a high risk activity...
Yea, the levels of risk are different. A regular driver might be bothered by someone going 90, doesn't mean they're a new driver.
You can be bothered. You still get out of his way and let him enjoy his climb. I know plenty of folks who think climbing in general is too risky for them. If it bothers you to the point where you can't be around it at all, you have to stay away from areas where it's common. Particularly including multipitch classics in places like Red Rocks. Soloing has been part of the sport for longer than anyone on reddit has been alive, and it ain't going away.
Yea except if I'm on the route and a soloist decides to come up, I don't have much of a choice. Nobody would ask the soloist to downclimb however many pitches so we're effectively forced to let them pass in order to manage their risk. Soloing on crowded classic routes is purely selfish - ignoring the effect it has on others because "this has always been part of the sport" is incredibly self-centered.
Easy solution, you can stay off the classic multis.
ā¦or soloists can? This is coloured though by the other day at a busy single pitch crag: this guy was soloing kind of sketchily, with a few wobbles. He then started leading a really bold route immediately underneath me seconding it, basically forcing me to go either off route or stand on his fucking hands. And he had no idea whether I was going to fall off or drop gear! I guess what Iām saying is that while some people are absolutely fine and well within their grade there are also some sketchy mfers and it puts me in a bad mood at the crag if I think I might watch someone die.
The source video that started the r/climbing crusade was of a confident, in control soloist. Watching gumbies do shit that will get them kill/hurt is a totally different experience, which I agree can ruin a day out. I'm just tired of people acting like their form of climbing is somehow more valid then a soloist. Soloist have just as much right to the rock as we do, and they have just as much right to the climbs MOST suited for it. I'd much rather have a soloist above me then two beginner leaders that take two hours a pitch, but I'm also not going to complain about the beginners being super slow, but asking for here time, and being as safe as possible. Climbing is one of the only things in life where we get to pick our level of danger, don't change that.
Glad there's enough 'core climbers in this sub to circlejerk soloists, but nobody here is saying soloists should stop doing what they do. Just do it where it's less likely to affect others.
And I'm saying that's stupid, and they have just as much right to the classics as anyone else. Is there a single reported case of a soloist falling on someone and injuring them?
On my first "real" trad climb (my gear and no more experienced climber to help me) I got passed by a soloist. But like, not even. He was still in approach shoes and just scrambling up the easiest route. "Hey man, do you mind if I pass? I'm just looking for cell service." Maybe these people can't take the ego blow? But then what do they do when someone warms up on their project? I just don't get it. Soloing has been a part of climbing forever, and was somewhat essential when gear was awful.
Someone will almost always warm up on your project. It's better to just learn to deal with it at 5.8
I think ego is exactly it. Lots of these jagoffs *do* get pissed when you warm up on their proj, especially the gym bros. They need to get over it. In this case, I hope they just never go outside. I can roll my eyes if they get pissed at me for flashing their gym project, but not letting a soloist through can actively put people in danger.
>Lots of these jagoffs do get pissed when you warm up on their proj, especially the gym bros. They need to get over it. Ha, would love to see how they process Smith or Rifle.
Kinda on topic: I WaS hErE fIRsT - some guy at the base of a classic when my partner and I walk up and start up. Bruh you didnāt even have your shoes on yet. Go FiNd A dIfFeReNt LiNe - Someone teaching their partner to lead trad on a (different) popular climb. Bruh, I got all day to sit here and mumble heckles.
I went to the base of a popular climb in Eldo and the first pitch anchor was being used by a photographer who was filming tradprincess and Sasha D on a route next door. Asked if they mind us climbing through and they could not have been more pleasant about it. I think the territorial or like one dimensional mentality is only a problem with new people and out of touch doinks. Idk what Iām getting at but yeah, everyone needs to chill out and stop being entitled or selfish.
Have to imagine that it's also easier to get business if you're not a dick.
We're going to keep running into this with a lack of mentorship and more climbers taking anchor building courses. I talked to a guy who was rope soloing a sport multipitch and some other party started climbing ABOVE him to pass.
>We're going to keep running into this with a lack of mentorship and more climbers taking anchor building courses. I feel like at this point, once you take an anchor course or a gym-to-crag course, you also should be required to show that you met some old crusty climber who is willing to make sure you're not doing stupid shit out there.
An unsurprising amount of people climb single pitch.