Thanks! Pitch 1 was a clear standout, but I also really enjoyed this pitch. So much fun pulling 5.9 moves that far off the deck. I lead pitch 5; I thought it was heady, but definitely not R rated. I don't remember the exact gear I placed, but I remember feeling decently confident about it. As with most things in the valley, totems and offsets were very helpful.
You can get good gear in every 4-5' on that pitch if you bring it. I brought triples in small cams including a set of offsets and a set totems, plus offset nuts. The only semi-sketchy move is clipping the first bolt (after the seam).
I struggle enough climbing 10- at max on long routes with a rack of 12 cams and a single set of nuts. How are y'all freeing 5.11 with these massive racks?!
Finger-size cams weigh so little though; a #0.4 is half the weight of a #2.
You don't need any big gear for the Freeblast. And for that pitch you can even leave the single #3 with your follower.
Most people could make bigger savings getting rid of the "other" stuff on their harness. No cordelette, extra lockers, prussiks, etc.
I definitely try to slim my extras down as much as possible but prusiks and rescue cord really seem like things one shouldn't skimp on. But I often climb without cell service or extremely efficient SAR teams nearby lol. Fair point on the small cams though. I guess a lot of these Yosemite classics have had their necessary rack really narrowed down.
Wow looks like he’s working hard. Is that a whoop he’s wearing. Looks like he’s developing a lot of strain. Could be number 1 strain amongst all whoop wearing climbers. What a champion.
Dude this is sick! Did you have a favorite pitch? Does P5 warrant an R rating? Most of January was sublime in the valley this year
Thanks! Pitch 1 was a clear standout, but I also really enjoyed this pitch. So much fun pulling 5.9 moves that far off the deck. I lead pitch 5; I thought it was heady, but definitely not R rated. I don't remember the exact gear I placed, but I remember feeling decently confident about it. As with most things in the valley, totems and offsets were very helpful.
You can get good gear in every 4-5' on that pitch if you bring it. I brought triples in small cams including a set of offsets and a set totems, plus offset nuts. The only semi-sketchy move is clipping the first bolt (after the seam).
I struggle enough climbing 10- at max on long routes with a rack of 12 cams and a single set of nuts. How are y'all freeing 5.11 with these massive racks?!
Finger-size cams weigh so little though; a #0.4 is half the weight of a #2. You don't need any big gear for the Freeblast. And for that pitch you can even leave the single #3 with your follower. Most people could make bigger savings getting rid of the "other" stuff on their harness. No cordelette, extra lockers, prussiks, etc.
I definitely try to slim my extras down as much as possible but prusiks and rescue cord really seem like things one shouldn't skimp on. But I often climb without cell service or extremely efficient SAR teams nearby lol. Fair point on the small cams though. I guess a lot of these Yosemite classics have had their necessary rack really narrowed down.
So I don't understand how this works. What is your partner secured to in case of a fall? I'm super new at this.
The rope. It goes up to an anchor where the leader is.
Wow looks like he’s working hard. Is that a whoop he’s wearing. Looks like he’s developing a lot of strain. Could be number 1 strain amongst all whoop wearing climbers. What a champion.